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Ways to Calm Down Your High Energy Dog

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It’s not uncommon for humans who are living with young dogs to bemoan the adolescent “wild child” phase of development – when the canine youngster naturally starts becoming a little more independent and, sometimes, a lot more active. Of course, dog personalities lie on a continuum from very calm to quite energetic. Some even display excessive jumping and biting as young puppies. If you’ve previously had the good fortune of only raising dogs at the calmer, naturally well-behaved end of the continuum, you may think they are all supposed to be like that – and it can be particularly alarming to discover you’ve adopted one at the high-arousal end of the continuum.

high energy dog
Most shelters and rescue groups have an abundant supply of adolescent dogs – and a lot of them are “high-octane” purebreds or mixed breeds, such as terriers, hounds, herding dogs, and retrievers. The oversupply is testament to the difficulty of dealing with this cohort.

I had two clients recently with remarkably similar concerns about their dogs – one, a seven-month-old male Golden Retriever, the other a 13-month-old neutered male Labrador. Both of these adolescent canines are from hunting lines, which means that they are at the high-energy end of the range of sporting-breed personalities. Both families described dogs who were “out of control,” biting and jumping in an aroused fashion when greeting people. Both families had sought advice from other professionals prior to coming to me; one dog had experienced only force-free methods, while the other had been on a prong collar and subjected to forced restraint and being “put on the ground.”

It came as no surprise to me that the behavior of the force-free dog was improving, while the dog who was being forced to the ground was starting to offer an escalating level of aggression in response. Time and again, we see dogs become defensively aggressive when their humans use confrontational methods.

High-Energy Dogs: Normal, But Not Desirable

I commended the first owner for pursuing a force-free approach to working with her dog, and the following day, counseled the other as to why we needed to take force and coercion off the training table. I explained to both families that they were seeing normal behavior in dogs who were bred to spend hours running through the woods, accompanying hunters in their quest for game birds.

“Normal,” of course, doesn’t necessarily mean acceptable. Both dogs need significantly more physical exercise and mental stimulation to meet their genetically programmed exercise needs, as well as a ramped-up management plan to prevent them from being reinforced for the unwanted behaviors.

I have fostered several dogs with similar high-energy behaviors, and without exception, every one of them was significantly helped by our standard exercise protocol for such dogs: a minimum of three off-leash hikes around the farm every day (or on a long line, if not trustworthy when off leash). I explained to both clients that the two on-leash walks their dogs were getting each day were just an exercise hors d’ouerve – an exercise appetizer for dogs like these. Of course, not everyone has access to an 80-acre farm they can hike on – hence the need to find other creative exercise alternatives.

Off-Leash Play for Excess Energy

Without access to a farm, you’ll need creativity to find exercise alternatives for your high-energy dog. A fenced backyard can be a terrific ally in your quest for exercise options, but don’t think you can just turn your dog out in the yard and leave her to her own devices. You may think your dog is self-exercising in the backyard, but in reality she’s probably spending a lot of time lazing in the sun, with perhaps an occasional burst of energy if a hapless squirrel or bunny wanders inside the fence. If she is running a lot, there’s a good chance it’s a high-arousal fence-running frustration response to stimuli outside the yard, which only contributes to high-energy inappropriate behaviors.

Instead, play with your dog! Here are a number of off-leash games that are perfect for tiring out dogs who otherwise have a bit too much energy:

Fetch

The aforementioned sporting breeds are usually more than willing to retrieve, over and over and over again. Yes, they do have a genetic predisposition to chase things and bring them back – that’s why they are called retrievers! The herding breeds, also generally high-energy dogs, are also genetically predisposed to bring things back to you.

If your dog will chase things but not bring them back, or brings them back but won’t give them to you, you can play the multi-ball game. Have a bucket of balls, and each time she chases one and dances out of reach with it, pick another out of the bucket and hold it up. Most dogs will drop the one they have in order to chase the next one you throw. Collect the one she dropped for the next throw, or just keep picking balls out of the bucket to throw, and collect them all after the game is over.

If your dog will bring them back, but plays body-slam-and-grab when she reaches you, play the bucket-of-balls fetch game from inside an exercise pen (ex-pen). Safely protected by the portable fence, you can toss balls to your heart’s content without fear of injury, and until your dog is ready to call it quits.

Fetching in the water is perhaps the most tiring exercise there is – especially if you combine the swim with a hill-climb! If you have a water-loving dog and access to a body of water (pool, pond, lake) where it’s safe to have your dog off-leash, use it to your advantage!

Tug

If your dog prefers tugging to fetching, invest in a variety of sturdy tug toys, and encourage her to tug to her heart’s content, as long as she plays by the rules. If she works her way up the tug toy and redirects her grip to clothes or skin, use a “flirt pole” – a toy attached to a rope at the end of a long, sturdy stick – to keep her teeth safely away from you. If she still redirects to you, stand inside your exercise pen and let her chase the flirt pole toy around the outside of the pen.

Get the Rules for Playing Tug, and see why this game is so good for learning dogs!

Round-Robin Recalls

This group activity is another great exercise option. You and one or more friends or family members stand at opposite corners of the yard and call your dog back and forth to tire her out. If needed, all the human participants can stand safely enclosed in exercise pens. Even standing in a pen, you can trot a few steps to encourage your dog’s high-speed recalls and reinforce with treats or toys when she gets to you.

Play Dates

If your dog gets along well with others, arrange for play dates in your fenced backyard with a dog friend several times a week. Appropriate dog-dog play can be an ideal energy diffuser – there’s nothing more satisfying than watching compatible canine pals romping together until both relax on the ground in happy exhaustion.

dogs playing
There is nothing better than a compatible playmate for your rough-and-tumble youngster, if you can find one. It’s a challenge to find a pal who won’t be intimidated or triggered into aggression by his energetic antics.

If you don’t have your own backyard, perhaps you can borrow one. A neighbor, friend, or family member may have a yard that you can use several times a week to give your dog some off-leash playtime. If that yard also comes with a compatible canine playmate, all the better!

Exercise on a Long Line

If you simply can’t find a fenced yard to play in, consider alternatives. You may be able to use a long line (a 20- to 50-foot leash) in an unfenced open space – a beach, or a meadow in a public park that allows dogs and doesn’t have a leash-length limit.

If you do use a long line, take precautions for your dog’s safety:

– Teach your dog a solid recall, so you can call her back if she’s headed for the end of the line at top speed – you don’t want her to hit the end of the line with a full head of steam! (See “Training Your Dog to Execute an Extremely Fast Rocket Recall,” September 2012.)

– Consider using a harness rather than a collar, with your leash attached to a back-clip connection, not front-clip, so if she does hit the end of the line she won’t damage her trachea or twist herself sideways. (See “The 2017 Best Dog Harnesses Review.”)

– Include a bungee-cord connection with the long line, so if she does hit the end there is some give in the line and she won’t hurt herself.

– Manage the line carefully and responsibly so she doesn’t get tangled around trees, brush, or other dogs.

Dog Park

Many communities now offer fenced dog areas to provide off-leash opportunities for canines who don’t have their own fenced yard. There are pros and cons to dog parks, and this may or may not be an appropriate option for your dog.

Dog Daycare

The same is true of doggie daycare. There are some excellent ones out there, and some that aren’t so great. A day at daycare can take a lot of the wind out of your dog’s sails – but check the facility out very carefully before entrusting them with your dog. There are horror stories of daycare facilities using shock collars on dogs without telling the owners.

Ways to Exercise Dogs Indoors

For some of us, safe outdoor play options aren’t available or frequent inclement weather prevails. So, when outdoor exercise isn’t available – or isn’t enough – consider the following:

Stair Fetch

If you have a multi-level home and your stairs are safely carpeted, you are in luck! Stand at the top of the stairs and toss ball or toy to the bottom for her to chase. Again, have multiple balls or toys if necessary. You can put a baby gate across the top of the stairs if needed to protect yourself from jumping and nipping.

Note: If your stairs are not carpeted, consider purchasing and installing adhesive stair treads from your friendly neighborhood hardware store. Caution: If you think your dog will fall down the stairs and hurt herself in her enthusiasm to chase, then this is not a good option for you. No stairs? Toss the ball down a long hallway, or from one room to the next.

Remote Treat Delivery

If your dog is more about treats than fetch, you can try a high-tech option: using a remote-triggered Train & Praise treat dispenser, or the even higher-tech Pet Tutor. Relax on your sofa, watching TV or reading a book, and push a button to trigger the beep that tells your dog that the machine – located at the other end of your home – has just delivered a tasty treat. After your dog runs to get the treats, call her back and do it again. Over and over and over.

Treadmill

Yes, they make treadmills just for dogs, and yes, some dogs will happily use them – in fact, some dogs practically beg to use them. Not long ago, I went to see a client whose adolescent Labrador, Joker, was mercilessly pestering the two senior Labs in the home, biting and jumping on them. When I sat down on the sofa, Joker immediately began pestering me mercilessly. I ignored his inappropriate behavior, and after a few minutes he went to his human, barked once, and then walked over and stood on his treadmill. My client turned the treadmill on and Joker jogged for 20 minutes, then hopped off and calmly laid down on the living-room floor. I was impressed.

A treadmill is a big-ticket item, but if your dog is extremely hungry for exercise, the investment in a treadmill just might cost less than daycare, dog walkers, and/or private lessons with trainers, not to mention the cost of all the things a bored adolescent dog might chew if he’s not getting enough miles in. (Check out the treadmills made by DogPacer.)

Scent Work

Indoors or out, you can use a dog’s natural affinity for using her nose to your advantage. Most dogs love to use their noses and do it well with minimal training, so it’s pretty easy to implement. In addition, nose exercise is surprisingly tiring. We tend to think that, because they are so good at it, it’s effortless for them, but it actually takes a lot of energy to do all that scent detection. In the wild, where energy conservation is a life-or-death matter, most canids will hunt by sight first, using scent only when absolutely necessary.

Giving your dog a “job” to do with these scent-detection games is a very important and successful strategy for these high-energy, high-arousal dogs.

See “Nose Work is Great Exercise for Dogs!” for an introduction to training this skill.

Mental Exercises to Tire Dogs Out

Mental exercise is very tiring for dogs. Cognitive training games are incredibly effective for using up your dog’s excess energy. Here are a few mind-bending, energy-burning activities that you can use to help settle your wild child:

Imitation games

Claudia Fugazza, an Italian doctoral candidate in the field of ethology (animal behavior), developed a new training method she calls, “Do As I Do,” in which the dog is taught a cue that means, essentially, “Watch me and then do something similar to what I do.” Trainers have been having a lot of fun learning how to employ this new method for teaching new behaviors to dogs and their dog-training students. (For more information, see “Training Your Dog Using Imitation,” October 2013.)

Puzzle Toys

We first reviewed an array of these toys in the June 2008 article, “Interactive Dog Toys.” Dog puzzles offer hidey-holes where you can stash little bits of delicious treats or kibble; the dog has to work out how to open the holes to eat the treats. The puzzles may feature caps that have to be nosed or pawed open or removed, layers that have to be spun, or levers that need to be nudged to one side to reveal the treats. There are many of these puzzle toys on the market now, ranging from very simple to quite complicated; the dog world keeps coming up with new variations on products designed to keep your high-energy dog’s mind well-exercised. Check out toys offered by Nina Ottosson and Outward Hound.

Cognition Games

These are activities that require significantly more mental energy than the simple “If I sit I get a cookie” response. They require your dog to understand and apply concepts such as choice (see “Training Your Dog to Make Choices,” November 2016). Two examples of cognition games are:

– Object, shape, and color discrimination. Teach your dog the names of two different toys, a blue and yellow paper plate, or two different shapes pasted on white squares. Then ask him to touch the correct object, color, or shape with his nose or paw.

– Reading. We’re serious! Dogs can be taught to recognize and remember what some written words look like. See “Teach Your Dog to Read,” October 2006.

Reinforcing Your Dog’s Calm Behavior

Don’t forget the training part of your wild-child rehabilitation program. As much as exercise is vital to help your dog calm down, you also need to manage her environment so she doesn’t have opportunities to get reinforced for over-exuberant behaviors, such as jumping and nipping.

Have her greet new people only while leashed, to prevent her from being reinforced with petting and attention from the people who say, “It’s okay! I love dogs!” You can solicit help from random strangers in public as well as visitors to your home; just restrain your dog and prevent contact if she tries to jump. Instruct those who want to pet her to wait until she sits, or at least has four paws on the floor, and to step back if she jumps up. Meanwhile, make sure you and all your family members are doing the same, even when she isn’t leashed.

If your dog gets aroused and tries to jump on or mouth you when you have her on leash, try threading her leash through a length of PVC pipe. You can use this similar to an animal control pole, to hold her away from you when she get into nippy mode.

A good, force-free training class can work wonders to help and support you in your quest for canine calm. Basic good manners are important for all dogs, and especially for those with more energy than they know what to do with. A well-run group class will help your dog learn how to control her behavior in the presence of other dogs and humans.

To find a trainer, I recommend looking among members of the Pet Professional Guild, trainers who are committed to force-free training; use the directory on the PPG website to find force-free trainers around the world.

Meanwhile, remember to look for opportunities to gently praise your dog when she is being calm. (If your praise is too happy or excited, you risk amping her up again.)

Several trainers have developed calming protocols specifically for working with high-arousal dogs. Dr. Karen Overall, veterinary behaviorist and strong force-free advocate, has created a 15-day thinly sliced “Protocol for Relaxation,” available in her Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, that helps dogs learn impulse control. This detailed procedure begins with your dog sitting calmly for just a few seconds and works up to having her remain calm for minutes at a time while you move around, clap your hands, and even leave the room.

Trainer September Morn, of Olympia, Washington, created “Go Wild and Freeze,” another useful calming protocol. This one starts by having you encourage your dog to get slightly aroused with a “Go wild” cue, and then stand up, hands at chest, as you give the “Freeze” cue. When your dog sits, she gets a click and treat. Gradually increase the level of arousal, until your “Freeze” cue will work to settle her into a sit from any level of arousal.

Happy Endings

I have yet to see a high-arousal nipping, jumping, body-slamming dog who has not been successfully helped by an appropriate combination of exercise and training. In fact, I received an email just today from the owner of the 13-month-old Labrador Retriever I met with two weeks ago. She was thrilled to report that she has already seen significant improvement in her dog’s behavior. I’ll be checking in with the Golden Retriever client soon.

Something for the pain, please!

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A couple of weeks ago, I rented a room in the house where I have my office (editorial office of WDJ) to a super nice 19-year-old guy who has an adorable, three-year-old mixed-breed dog, MJ. You’ll start seeing her picture in WDJ; we always need new models! But one of the deals I made with MJ’s owner was that MJ would get spayed. He said he had been meaning to get it done – especially after MJ had an accidental litter of puppies last summer – but as a full-time student who works, he had lacked the time and means . . . the surgery hadn’t risen to the top of his priority list yet.

I really like this young man and I really like his dog. I donate money to my own local shelter and foster puppies for them frequently. It was a no-brainer to offer to pay for MJ to get spayed.

As it worked out, my tenant was working at a summer camp during the first two weeks of his residency; I offered to dog-sit MJ during those weeks, and get her spayed at that time. He was happy with the arrangement, and will return the favor in a few weeks by dog-sitting Woody for me when I need some help.

At the veterinary clinic, I was asked whether I wanted to pay extra for pre-surgical blood work for MJ, and whether I wanted to pay extra for a “pain pack.” I declined the blood test; she’s a young, very apparently healthy dog. I did ask for a heartworm test, however; my tenant admitted that there have been some lapses in her prevention medication. (Fortunately, she turned out to be negative for heartworm, and I purchased a year’s worth of preventive medication for her, too.)

I said yes to the “pain pack.” I think that whatever is available for pain should be administered to any dog undergoing spay or neuter surgery. It actually really surprised me that any sort of pain medication would be considered optional! At my local shelter, all the dogs who are spayed receive an injection of meloxicam, which gives them 24 hours of pain relief post-surgery.

When I picked up MJ after her surgery and not long before the clinic closed for the day, she was still pretty dopey. I was given five carprofen tablets, and told to give her one a day for five days, starting as soon as I got home.

I did give MJ a carprofen tablet when we got home, and understood it would take a while to kick in, but she seemed to be in so much discomfort, it made me physically uncomfortable. I’ve watched spay surgeries before; they are not a small undertaking! I felt really bad for her. I even carried her up and down the stairs a few times that evening when she indicated she had to go outside and pee; she would stand at the top (and then the bottom) of the stairs but was clearly reluctant to attempt negotiating them herself.

The next morning, after the carprofen had taken effect, she was more comfortable, but still seemed like she was in more pain than other dogs I’ve fostered post-surgery. I called the clinic to ask whether the “pain pack” I paid for included an injection of pain medication. The receptionist put me on hold so she could check MJ’s file . . . but then sort of waffled. “We sent you home with medication to give her for pain; are you giving her that medication?”

“Yes, of course,” I said. “But did she also receive an injection of pain medication?”

Finally, the answer I got was that they “usually” do, but for some reason they hadn’t! Oh, the poor girl! No wonder she was so sore.

Fortunately, the rest of her recovery was smooth. By the next day, she was able to negotiate the stairs (albeit slowly) and by day five, I was having to keep her and Woody separated so they wouldn’t play. Her incision looks neat and healed nicely, and I’m glad to know there are no more accidental puppies in her future, wherever that finds her and her young owner.

I understand that the use of analgesics following spay/neuter surgery was uncommon decades ago, but in recent years, I thought their use is considered standard procedure. What is your experience? Does this differ in different parts of the country?

Sure to Help

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Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

I’m giving myself a big pat on the back. Late last year, not only did I decide to enroll both of my dogs in a pet insurance plan, I actually did it. I’m not exactly happy that both of my dogs have needed a lot of veterinary attention lately, but having insurance when they did has helped reduce the financial stress.

I had an epiphany when my adolescent Lab/pit-mix, Woody, swallowed a small tennis ball (after 6 on a Friday night, no less): Such an exuberant, athletic, and spontaneous dog needs insurance. And Otto, my scruffy heart-dog does, too. He’s a big dog and closing in on 10 years old, an age that prompts concerns about things like cancer. I wanted a full-coverage plan for Otto, but I was tempted to buy young, abundantly healthy Woody a “major medical” plan only. However, such an active dog is prone to things like a torn ACL, and only the top-of-the-line plans cover knee surgeries and the like, so I ended up looking for a deluxe plan for him, too.

After a bit of research, I settled on a plan called “Whole Pet with Wellness” offered by Nationwide Pet Insurance (formerly VPI) for both dogs. It seems like it will cover anything that my dogs might need and reimburse me for 90 percent of the cost of vet visits after a $250 (per year) deductible. Woody’s coverage costs $58 per month; Otto’s costs $122 per month. That definitely puts a dent in my monthly budget, but as it turns out, it’s worth it.

Foxtails, the bane of a California dog’s existence, prompted Woody’s first, second, and third trips to the vet this year. His insurance hasn’t quite paid for itself so far, but if he has just one more veterinary visit for an injury or illness this year, it likely will be a draw.

And, darn it, as I write, we’re in the middle of trying to diagnose a concerning issue with Otto. Through July 31, I’ve spent $854 on his insurance and $1,550 on his medical bills for a total of $2,404. But I’ve got $1,170 coming back to me ($1,550 minus the $250 deductible equals $1,300; Nationwide reimburses me for 90 percent of that, which is $1,170), meaning my net cost so far, for insurance plus my share of Otto’s medical bills, is $1,234. Woohoo! I’m ahead so far – which is good, because I may end up spending a good bit more on him before this is through.

Knowing that I need only pay for the monthly insurance plus 10 percent of any more potential vet bills this year eases my mind – at least about the money, anyway. I’ll explain more about what was going on with both dogs in a blog post; see Whole Dog Journal’s blog in the upcoming days.

In the meantime, think good thoughts for Otto, would you?

Prescription Oral Flea Control Medication for Dogs

Note: The following article was originally published in the September 2017 issue of Whole Dog Journal. We have updated it following the FDA’s September 20, 2018 release of a communication regarding the medications described in this article.

Dogs and dog owners have suffered from flea bites for all of their shared history, but in the past 20 years or so, scientists have been developing more and better tools that modern dog owners can use to defeat fleas. The development of these products has always been a balancing act – the goal is to find the most effective flea killers that cause the least amount of harm to the dog, her family, and the environment at large.

To help dog owners understand the flea-control options that are available to them, we have published a number of articles describing how various types of flea-control products work. These include the products described in this article, oral medications that kill fleas and that are available by veterinary prescription only, as well as the following:

Why Use Prescription-Only Oral Medications?

For several reasons, many veterinarians tend to put the most stock in prescription-only oral medications (at least, until recently; we will see what develops in light of the September 2018 FDA communication regarding these drugs and their potential for causing seizures in dogs and cats). In fact, these products are highly effective solutions for killing fleas – but they do pose significant potential side effects.

In our opinion, oral flea control medication should be reserved for dogs who have severe flea allergy, live in an area where fleas are a constant threat, who suffer serious adverse reactions to topical flea-killing pesticides, and who have taken these oral products previously without any adverse reactions. And at most, they should represent only a partof a dog owner’s efforts to control fleas.

itchy dog

Why would a veterinarian recommend such products? Well, take the case of the Great Dane I fostered in the summer of 2016, who had an incredibly thin coat and who was very itchy. When I took her to a veterinarian for a complete examination and discussion of what we could do for her itching, the vet essentially refused to consider any sort of allergy diagnosis or treatment until the dog had been on an oral flea-prevention medication for a minimum of three months.

She said, that in her opinion and experience, “only longer-term oral medications offer enough protection from fleas to rule out an allergy to fleas as the cause of persistent itching.” To that end, she prescribed a medication called Bravecto, a drug that can kill any fleas that bite the dog for as long as 12 weeks after the dog is dosed.

I countered that I could repeat topical insecticides at regular intervals. But the veterinarian was firm in her belief that only a dose of Bravecto would ensure that there would be no gap in flea prevention for long enough to ensure that the Dane’s itching was not caused by fleas.

Merck, the maker of Bravecto, strongly promotes this point, taking slightly different tacks on its product website pages for owners and veterinarians. Owners are told that Bravecto makes flea control easy: “With Bravecto Chew, dogs get 12 weeks of flea and tick protection with a single treatment. That’s nearly three times longer than monthly treatments. This makes it easy for you to provide long-lasting coverage to your dog, without having to worry about remembering frequent treatments.”

bravecto chewables

On Merck’s pages for veterinarians, the most-promoted benefit is owner compliance: “Convenient long-lasting protection means less chance of noncompliance,” it says on one page. “Bravecto makes all the difference in improving pet-owner compliance,” it says on another.

Edible Flea Control VS. Topical

There are a number of other advantages to using an oral flea-control product over a topical product:

– If you or your children pet the dog, you may prefer not to have contact with a topical product. This could also be true in a multi-pet household where pets groom each other.

– Dogs with longer coats often sport a “greasy spot” for several days after topicals have been applied, increasing the concern of petting the dog and coming into contact with the pesticide.

– Owners of dogs with skin problems, or who have had a reaction in the past to any sort of topical product, might prefer to use an oral one.

– Bathing or even swimming too soon after application may reduce the effectiveness of topicals.

– Some ingredients used to kill ticks, such as permethrin (used in K9 Advantix and other products) and amitraz (used in Certifect and the Preventic collar), are toxic to cats, which can be a problem in a household that includes both, especially if they are friendly with each other. In that case, giving the dog an oral product would be safer for the cat.

– Because the insecticides in the newer oral products haven’t been used for very long, they can be more effective in areas where fleas and ticks may have built up some resistance to the older topical products.

– Last but not least, oral flea-control medications have been proven to be more effective than topical pesticides in both killing fleas and helping to control a household infestation more quickly.

Disadvantages of Oral Flea-Killing Medications

Every product you feed or use on your dog poses some amount of risk, and some percentage of dogs will react badly to any product.

The most significant disadvantage of these medications is that, once a dog digests one, it’s in his system for as long as it’s designed to be. If he has an adverse reaction, veterinary attention may be required to treat his symptoms, but there is little that can be done to mitigate or halt the overall reaction. In contrast, if a dog has an adverse reaction to a topical pesticide, his owner can immediately bathe him to reduce the adverse effects. The effects of an oral medication can’t be mitigated in this way.

Dog deaths and seizures have been reported from the use of these products. The product manufacturers (and, until recently, the FDA) have indicated that these most serious adverse effects are very rare – not numerous enough to be listed among the most common adverse side effects on the package inserts. We are awaiting updated information regarding the adverse drug experience (ADE) reports that have been collected by the FDA since the introduction of these products to the market.

The most common adverse side effects of oral flea-control medication are stomach upset and vomiting. The very fact that a dog can vomit up the medication – and the possibility that he might do so without you being aware of this – is a fairly significant disadvantage, too. If you don’t find the vomit, you may think the product was just plain ineffective. And then there is the possibility the vomit is discovered and eaten by another one of your dogs!

It should also be noted that while all of these products are formulated with palatants to entice a dog to chew them up and eat them, some dogs may refuse. In this case, you will be forced to either sneak the medication into the dog’s food or give it to him like any other pill – and you’d have to break the larger doses for large dogs into pieces to “pill” them.

Finally, but not insignificantly, prescription oral flea-killing medications can compromise the integrity of a necessarily strict food-allergy trial.

Isoxazolines: The Newest Class of Flea-Killing Drugs

There are not that many medications approved by the FDA for controlling fleas on dogs. Most products contain one significant “active ingredient” that controls fleas, although a few contain more than one.

The newest class of insecticides are isoxazolines, chemicals that are selectively toxic to insects (fleas) and acarines (mites and ticks) in a way that is not supposed to pose a risk to mammals. Isoxazolines kill fleas and ticks by inhibiting their ligand-gated chloride channels, in particular, those gated by the GABA neurotransmitter. This blocks pre- and post-synaptic transfer of chloride ions across cell membranes, resulting in uncontrolled activity of the fleas’ and ticks’ central nervous system (CNS) and death.

In plain English? The operation of many physiological processes rely on ion channels, chemical pathways where charged ions from dissolved salts (including sodium, potassium, calcium, and chloride) pass through otherwise impermeable cell membranes. Most of these channels are gated, opening and closing in response to certain stimuli. Isoxazolines close the chemical gates on chloride channels that are essential for the CNS of fleas and ticks, resulting in their death.

What follows is a description of each of the isoxazoline-containing products and information from their product inserts.

Keep in mind as you read that, as stated earlier, WDJ recommends the use of these products only under certain circumstances (specified above), for a limited amount of time. The information is presented so that owners understand what these products are, how they work, and how they differ from each other.

Bravecto

The active ingredient in Bravecto, a product introduced by Merck Animal Health in early 2014, is an isoxazoline chemical called fluralaner. It is given once every three months. Each Bravecto treatment kills fleas and certain species of ticks (black-legged tick, American dog tick, and brown dog tick) for 12 weeks, three times longer than any other oral flea treatment. It kills the lone star tick for eight weeks. It also kills the mite responsible for demodectic mange, though it has not yet received FDA approval for this use. Studies indicate that Bravecto kills more than 98 percent of fleas, and 100 percent of ticks, in less than 12 hours after administration.

Bravecto should be administered with food to maximize the bioavailability of the active ingredient.

The most common adverse reactions recorded in clinical trials were vomiting, decreased appetite, diarrhea, lethargy, polydipsia (excessive drinking), and flatulence.

Although its maker offers no specific warning about this in its product literature, Bravecto should be used with caution in dogs with a history of seizures, similar to other drugs in this class.

Bravecto is said to be safe for pregnant, breeding, and lactating dogs, dogs weighing at least 4.4 pounds, and for puppies who are at least six months old (and 4.4 pounds). No adverse reactions were observed in pre-approval studies when Bravecto was used concurrently with other medications such as vaccines, de-wormers, antibiotics, and steroids.

Credelio

This is the most recently introduced oral flea-killing medication to the market; Credelio, made by Elanco, was approved for use in January 2018. Its active ingredient is an isoxazoline chemical called lotilaner. It is given once a month. Credelio kills fleas, the Lone Star tick, American dog tick, black-legged tick, and brown dog tick.

Studies indicate Credelio begins to kill fleas within four hours of administration, and is 100 percent effective against fleas within 24 hours. It is 97 percent effective against ticks within 48 hours.

Due to reduced drug bioavailability in the fasted state, Credelio must be administered with a meal or within 30 minutes after feeding.

The most common adverse reactions recorded in clinical trial were weight loss, elevated blood urea nitrogen (BUN), polyuria (excessive production of dilute urine), and diarrhea.

Credelio is said to be safe for dogs and puppies who weigh a minimum of 4.4 pounds and who are eight weeks of age or older. No adverse reactions were observed from the concomitant use of Credelio with vaccines, anthelmintics (dewormers), antibiotics, steroids, NSAIDS, anesthetics, or antihistamines. The safe use of Credelio in breeding, pregnant or lactating dogs has not been evaluated. Use with caution in dogs with a history of seizures.

NexGard

The active ingredient in NexGard, a product introduced by Frontline Vet Labs, a division of Merial, Inc., in 2013, is an isoxazoline chemical called afoxolaner. It is given once a month. Each NexGard treatment kills fleas and the black-legged tick, American dog tick, Lone Star tick, and brown dog tick. It also kills the mite responsible for demodectic mange, though it has not yet received FDA approval for this use.

nexgard chewables

In July 2018, Nexgard was approved by the FDA for the prevention of the infection that causes Lyme disease in dogs. Lyme disease is caused by a bacterium, Borrelia burgdorferi (B. burgdorferi), that is carried by certain species of ticks. The data presented by Merial in the supplemental application measured the transmission of B. burgdorferi to dogs after exposure to infected Ixodes scapularis ticks, and demonstrated that transmission was prevented as a direct result of killing the ticks. The study did not measure whether the product affected rates of illness from Lyme disease in dogs.

Studies indicate NexGard was 100 percent effective against fleas within 24 hours, and more than 97 percent effective against American dog ticks and Lone Star ticks, 94 percent effective against black-legged ticks, and 93 percent effective against brown dog ticks.

NexGard can be given with food or on an empty stomach.

The most common adverse reactions recorded in clinical trials were vomiting, itching, diarrhea, lethargy, and lack of appetite.

Nexgard is said to be safe for dogs and puppies who weigh four pounds or more and who are at least eight weeks of age. No adverse reactions were observed in preapproval studies when NexGard was used concomitantly with other medications, such as vaccines, dewormers, antibiotics, steroids, NSAIDS, anesthetics, and antihistamines. The safe use of NexGard in pregnant, breeding, or lactating dogs has not been evaluated. Use with caution in dogs with a history of seizures.

Simparica

The active ingredient in Simparica, a product introduced by Zoetis in 2016, is an isoxazoline chemical called sarolaner. It is given once every month. Each Simparica treatment kills fleas (100 percent within 24 hours) and certain species of ticks (almost 97 percent of Lone Star tick, Gulf Coast tick, American dog tick, black-legged tick, and brown dog tick) for one month.

Simparica also kills the mites responsible for demodectic mange (demodex), sarcoptic mange (scabies), and otodectic mange (ear mites), though it has not yet received FDA approval for these uses. (We’ve seen reports from veterinarians who are using it for this off-label use with success.) Its claim to fame is its speed; Zoetis claims that Simparica starts killing fleas within three hours and ticks within eight hours of administration.

Simparica may be administered with or without food.

Simparica may cause abnormal neurologic signs such as tremors, unsteadiness, and/or seizures. Simparica has not been evaluated in dogs who are pregnant, breeding, or lactating. Simparica has been safely used in dogs treated with commonly prescribed vaccines, parasiticides and other medications. The most frequently reported adverse reactions were vomiting and diarrhea.

Simparica is said to be safe for dogs weighing at least 2.8 pounds, and for puppies who are at least six months old (and 2.8 pounds).

Next Flea Medication Class: Spinosyns

This class of chemicals does not kill ticks, only fleas. Spinosyns work in a similar fashion as the isoxazolines, in that they activate reactions in the flea’s cellular ion channels (in this case, the nicotinic acetylcholine receptors or nAChRs), causing a fatal CNS reaction in the fleas. Insects treated with spinosyns show involuntary muscle contractions and tremors resulting from activation of motor neurons. Prolonged spinosad-induced hyperexcitation results in prostration, paralysis, and flea death. The selective toxicity of spinosad between insects and vertebrates may be conferred by the differential sensitivity of the insect versus vertebrate nAChRs.

The prescription oral flea-killing products in this class of medications all utilize a spinosyn called spinosad.

Comfortis/AcuGuard

These products are the same thing; Elanco makes AcuGuard for the VCA chain of veterinary hospitals under the Vethical brand.

As previously mentioned, the active ingredient in Comfortis and AcuGuard is spinosad. These products were FDA-approved in 2007. They are given once every month. Each treatment kills fleas for one month. Flea count reductions of 97.9 percent were observed one month after the first treatment and 99.9 percent after three monthly treatments with Comfortis or AcuGuard.

Administer these products with food for maximum effectiveness.

The most common adverse reaction reported from Comfortis/AcuGuard is vomiting. Other adverse reactions reported in decreasing order of frequency are: depression/lethargy, decreased appetite (anorexia), incoordination (ataxia), diarrhea, itching (pruritis), trembling, excessive salivation, and seizures.

Following concomitant extra-label use of ivermectin (very high doses used to treat mange) with Comfortis/AcuGuard, some dogs have experienced the following clinical signs: trembling/twitching, salivation/drooling, seizures, incoordination (ataxia), excessive dilation of pupils (mydriasis), blindness, and disorientation. Products containing spinosad should be safe when used along with the normal heartworm preventive dosage of ivermectin or milbemycin oxime, but use with caution in dogs who have or may have the MDR1 mutation that causes sensitivity to certain drugs.

Neither should these products be combined with high doses of milbemycim oxime (Interceptor, Sentinel), used to treat demodectic and sarcoptic mange, as this combination can cause serious adverse neurological effects.

While Elanco says these products can be combined with other flea and tick products, we wouldn’t recommend it. Nor should Comfortis/NexGuard be used for dogs with epilepsy or other seizure disorders.

Use with caution in breeding females. The safe use of Comfortis/AcuGuard in breeding males has not been evaluated.

Comfortis/AcuGuard is approved for use in dogs 14 weeks of age or older and 3.3 pounds of body weight or greater.

Trifexis/ComboGuard

These products are the same thing; Elanco makes ComboGuard for the VCA chain of veterinary hospitals under the Vethical brand.

Trifexis and ComboGuard combine spinosad with milbemycin oxime, a chemical that is used as a heartworm-preventive and is effective against intestinal parasites (hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms).

Trifexis/ComboGuard is approved for use in dogs and puppies eight weeks of age or older and five pounds of body weight or greater.

Administer these medications with food for maximum effectiveness.

Treatment with fewer than three monthly doses after the last exposure to mosquitoes may not provide complete heartworm prevention. Prior to administration of Trifexis/ComboGuard, dogs should be tested for existing heartworm infection. Use with caution in breeding females. The safe use of these medications in breeding males has not been evaluated.

Use with caution in dogs with pre-existing epilepsy.

What Elanco calls “mild, transient hypersensitivity reactions manifested as labored respiration, vomiting, salivation, and lethargy” have been noted in some dogs treated with milbemycin oxime carrying a high number of circulating heartworm microfilariae. These reactions are presumably caused by release of protein from dead or dying microfilariae. Milbemycin oxime is more effective against microfilariae than most other heartworm prevention medications (including ivermection) and may therefore cause anaphylaxsis if given to a heartworm-positive dog.

Just as with Comfortis and AcuGuard, following concomitant extra-label use of ivermectin with spinosad, some dogs have experienced the following clinical signs: trembling/twitching, salivation/drooling, seizures, incoordination (ataxia), excessive dilation of pupils (mydriasis), blindness and disorientation. Spinosad alone has been shown to be safe when administered concurrently with heartworm preventatives at label directions.

Again, products containing spinosad should be safe when used along with the normal heartworm preventive dosage of ivermectin or milbemycin oxime, but use with caution in dogs who have or may have the MDR1 mutation that causes sensitivity to certain drugs.

The most common adverse reactions reported are vomiting, depression/lethargy, itching (pruritic), decreased appetite (anorexia), diarrhea, trembling/shaking, ataxia, seizures, hypersalivation, and skin reddening. Puppies less than 14 weeks of age may experience a higher rate of vomiting.

Tips for Medication Use

It bears repeating: We do not recommend the use of these prescription-only flea-killing medications. However, if your dog is highly allergic to fleas, you live in an area where fleas are a chronic threat, your dog suffers from adverse reactions to topical pesticides, and he has not reacted to these medications in the past, use the products with these safety tips in mind:

1. Read all medication directions before giving to your dog.

Always read the instructions for use carefully before administering to your dog, especially the cautions and contraindications. It’s always shocking when we hear that someone gave their dog a medication without reading the instructions – and often refusing to take responsibility. “My veterinarian prescribed it! How was I supposed to know it could make my dog sick?” While it’s true that a veterinarian should inform her clients about the contraindications of any product she recommends, in reality, few vets have or take the time. If you read something in the product insert’s cautions and contraindications that seems like it would apply to your dog and concerns you, call your veterinary hospital and ask for the vet to call you back to discuss it – again, before you give the product to your dog.

2. Pay attention to the instructions.

Always follow the directions carefully. Products for cats and dogs are not interchangeable; a number of products for dogs are potentially fatal for cats. Topical products should not be ingested. Pay special attention to weight and age minimums for safe use, as well as the cautions regarding administration to sick, weak, old, medicated, pregnant, or nursing dogs.

3. Observe your dog carefully after administering a flea-control medication.

Most adverse reactions happen within a few hours. Contact your veterinarian with a speed that is congruent with the seriousness of your dog’s symptoms. (Serious? Go the to veterinary ER! Mild? Call your vet the next day to report and ask the staff to note this in your dog’s chart.)

4. Start a flea control calendar.

Keep track of when you administer a flea-control product to your dog. It’s advisable to write the date, time, product, and dosage on a calendar that you can easily refer to if your dog has an adverse reaction and you need to recount details to your veterinarian. Also note any abnormalities you may notice in your dog’s health, appetite, digestion, and demeanor after administration.

Nancy Kerns is the editor of WDJ.

Download the Full September 2017 Issue PDF

Foxtails, the bane of a California dog's existence, prompted Woody's first, second, and third trips to the vet this year. His insurance hasn't quite paid for itself so far, but if he has just one more veterinary visit for an injury or illness this year, it likely will be a draw.
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Different Strokes

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I’m slowly making friends with my neighbors over my back fence. They moved into that house about seven years ago . . .  but we got off to a bad start. They had two dogs, which they kept in the backyard 24/7. The dogs had a wooden dog house to sleep in, with absolutely no bedding whatsoever. When the people weren’t home, the dogs barked and barked and barked.

Worse: One of the dogs was a really old Rottweiler who had the funkiest-looking tumors literally hanging off her body. One of the tumors was about the size of an orange – and looked like an orange that someone stuffed into a stocking. It swung from side to side when she walked and, later, dragged on the ground. We had one conversation about the dogs over the back fence shortly after they moved in, but when I asked about the tumors, the people got kind of chilly and simply said that the dog had been seen by a vet and she was fine.

Not long after that conversation, the Rottie disappeared; I assume she had passed away or was euthanized. Things were much quieter – for about a month. Then they got a new, young dog, and the barking went right through the roof again. Every time I’m in my back yard and go near the fence, “Bark! Bark! Bark!”

For a while, I tried making friends with the dogs. When I was in my backyard, I’d toss treats over the fence to them. It sort of worked; it got to the point that when they were super barky, I could go out and say, “Hey guys! Shush now!” and they would settle down.

Then the neighbors started landscaping their yard and they erected a fence to keep the dogs out of the larger part of the back yard – on the far side of their yard. There is no way I can toss treats to the dogs anymore, and their association with my voice and treats has faded. On the other hand, they are getting older and not barking quite as much.

Recently, the neighbors asked me if I could feed and check on the dogs for a day; they were going out of town overnight. I said I’d be happy to.

They said the food was in a garbage can on the back porch, and it was – with no top on it, and in full sun. What? How could it not be rancid and full of flies and ants? Yikes!

They said the bowls would be in the pen, and they were – so filthy with crusted old spit and dirt, it was shocking to me. And it looked like no one had picked up any of the dogs’ poop for months. Old dried up poop was literally everywhere.

Given the dusty condition of the dogs’ section of the yard, and the lack of bedding in the dog house, it’s understandable that the dogs themselves are filthy and smelly. Which is probably why they are never welcomed into the house or the nice part of the yard; likely, no one wants to pet them.

And yet, the neighbors also asked if I would please put some giant cubes of ice in the dogs’ water bowl. They filled the bottom half of a two-liter soda bottle with water and froze it daily so they could put ice in the dogs’ water. So, there is some care and affection going on…

I’ve never understood this type of dog-keeping, and I likely never will. I don’t know why people would even have a dog if he or she is not allowed into their home and on their sofa. And yet, some of my friends think I’m a monster because I don’t allow my dogs to sleep on my bed with me, or feed a home-prepared diet. My friends on that end of the dog-owning spectrum would likely call the police over my neighbor’s dogs – and yet, the dogs do have food, water, shade, and shelter.

I have no point to make; I’m just puzzled. And sadder than ever for those dogs. 

 

Superzoo (or Any Pet Product Trade Show) IS a Super Zoo!

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Last week, for the second year in a row, I attended the pet product industry trade show called Superzoo, held in recent years in the Mandalay Bay convention center in Las Vegas. I was there to meet with representatives of various dog food companies and look for new/cool/unique helpful products to feature in WDJ. I’ve been trying to bring product reviews to the pages of WDJ on a more regular basis, and seeing so many pet product companies and their wares in one place at the same time is very helpful.

Photo courtesy of SuperZoo

It’s also EXHAUSTING. I traveled with a dog trainer friend, Sarah Richardson, who owns a training/boarding/daycare facility close to me, The Canine Connection, in Chico, California. Sarah, too, was looking for products to sell in her small lobby retail area, as well as products with which to outfit her facility. When we first arrived in Las Vegas, late at night, Sarah was optimistic. “Hey, we should go see a show! We should go eat out at one of these great restaurants! We should go see a concert!” But at the end of the show each day, at what would seem like the entirely reasonable hour of 5 pm, we were both BEAT. It was all we could do to eat and go back to the hotel room, and lay around discussing what we saw that day until we fell asleep.

I really should have had one of those activity monitors on; I’d love to know how many miles I walked. The show lasts for three days, and each day, I was on the floor from 8 am to 5 pm (well, the last day ends at 3 pm), and I still hadn’t seen everything, and hadn’t been down each aisle of the show. Superzoo is the largest pet industry trade show in North America, with more than 1,200 exhibitors. Some of those exhibitors have a tiny space, or just a few items or services to promote. Others have enormous booths with thousands of products on display; some of the booths of the biggest pet food makers and pharmaceutical companies offer full bars and/or snacks.

Trends I observed:

• What the industry calls the “natural/holistic” segment of the pet food market is putting an increased emphasis on ingredient sources, with a number of companies launching marketing campaigns based on ethically sourced and humanely raised ingredients.

• Products containing cannabis and its extracts are huge. I lost count of how many products containing a hemp or cannabis ingredient were present; some are intended for medicinal use, others for behavioral (calming) purposes. We’ll be looking at this category in a review in the next few months.

• Technology-based products for managing and observing pets while owners are away are continuing to evolve and improve. I’ll be bringing you reviews of the best products we found and will be testing by year’s end. Exciting stuff!

• There are WAY too many toy, treat, and collar makers in the world. Many offer products that we would never buy nor recommend. I’ll try to offer more reviews of the far fewer really good toys, treats, and collars that are out there. I’ll also try to credit the pioneers and innovators of the best products. Knock-offs of every good idea abound as well, and sometimes it takes a little detective work to determine who really cares about the product’s performance, quality, and safety, and who has just made a copy of the product, without really knowing all the little things that a truly committed product maker put into their wares. 

Subscribers should start seeing some of those product reviews soon!

Euthanizing an Old Dog: How it Works and What to Expect

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Denise O'Moore

The final kindness we can do for beloved pets who are suffering from disease or painful effects of advanced age is to relieve and shorten their misery. Euthanasia should be painless and peaceful, giving a caregiver a last, loving embrace with her dog (or cat), and a memory of ending the pet’s life in a quiet, dignified, fear-free, trauma-free manner. Many of us are at our most vulnerable at this time, wracked with sadness and distracted with deep concern for our companions – and, unfortunately, this may cause us to fail to ensure that the end we want for our pets resembles our hopeful vision of a peaceful end in any way.

Twice in the past year I went to a veterinary hospital to have an animal companion euthanized. One was my 20-year-old cat, Yogi; the other was a beloved friend’s ancient, blind, deaf, Chihuahua, Hopper, whom I was fostering after my friend’s death. In each instance, I wanted a smooth transition from this life to the afterlife for these much-loved, suffering pets – and in each instance, I was horrified during the process by events that were out of my ability to foresee or control. That is, they were out of my control because I hadn’t foreseen them.

The stories were difficult to recount (they are described in “Pet Euthanasia Gone Wrong“), but as a tribute to these animals, who didn’t get the painless, peaceful end they were entitled to, I’d like to warn others about the things that can potentially go wrong during euthanasia. I want to stand at the edge of the world and scream, “No animal should suffer pain and terror at the end of her life during euthanasia, at the hands of a veterinarian!” Instead, I’ll try to turn my horrific story into an educational opportunity.

Look for Practitioners Dedicated to Fear- and Pain-Free Caregiving

There is no more appropriate time to engage the services of a practitioner trained in fear-free handling techniques than when it comes to euthanizing your pet. Fortunately, there are now at least three well-respected sources of education and certification for veterinarians and their staff (as wells as groomers, daycare providers, dog trainers, and other pet-care professionals) on the topic of handling animals in a way that does not cause them additional stress or pain.

Dr. Sophia Yin, a veterinarian with a special interest in animal behavior and positive reinforcement-based training, is widely credited with pioneering methods of safely handling animals for husbandry and veterinary purposes.

When Dr. Yin realized that more dogs were being euthanized because of behavioral issues than medical issues, she went back to school (after earning her doctorate in veterinary medicine in 1993). She earned a Masters degree in Animal Science in 2001 and started developing low-stress handling techniques in her veterinary behavior practice. She published a book about these methods, Low Stress Handling, in 2009.

After Dr. Yin’s death in 2014, her business partners continued her legacy by establishing a low-stress handling curriculum and certification for veterinarians, vet techs, and any other animal-care professionals who want to learn to handle companion animals with the least amount of stress and defensiveness possible.

Pets who are less stressed feel more at ease in a hospital, from the minute they walk through the door, throughout their examinations, until they leave. Several levels of Low Stress Handling Certification can be earned by veterinarians and their staff, as well as other animal-care professionals, through Dr. Yin’s legacy, Low Stress Handling University.

Another certification program designed to reduce stress in pets in a hospital environment is called Fear Free, which was founded by Dr. Marty Becker, a veterinarian with a practice in Idaho. Dr. Becker is also adjunct professor at several schools of veterinary medicine and has authored a number of popular books on animal health. Fear Free offers an ever-growing number of courses for veterinary-hospital staff on subjects that range from fear-free animal, transport, waiting rooms, examinations, and in-hospital protocols for sedation, anesthesia, and analgesia.

Individual Fear Free professional certification launched in early 2016. One of the next certifications that Dr. Becker plans to offer is called Compassion-First Pet Hospitals, wherein every aspect of a veterinary practice is designed with the animal patients’ emotional comfort as a priority.

Recently the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) began offering an online course in animal hospice and palliative care that includes euthanasia protocols that follow the Low Stress Handling and/or Fear Free philosophies. The certification program can be taken by veterinarians, vet techs, vet office staff, kennel workers, or anyone with an interest in this subject. See the AAHA web page for more information.

These are the only certification programs available to veterinary professionals. Courses in understanding companion animal behavior, body language, and the emotional state of pets were not taught in veterinary schools when Dr. Yin and Dr. Becker were students (I’m not aware of any veterinary schools that include this information in their curriculum even now), and both sought to address that educational void.

man with old dog

If you love your veterinarian, but you don’t think she is aware of these fear-free or low-stress handling educational resources, consider mentioning these certification programs the next time you and your dog see her. If she learned even a few tips on how to help pets be less anxious during vet visits, you’d all (client, patient, doctor, staff) be glad she did.

Confirm Your Vet’s Certification

It’s possible for a veterinarian to independently seek out advanced education and earn competence in animal behavior and low-stress handling techniques, just as Dr. Yin and Dr. Becker did. However, I learned the hard way that pet owners need to be vigilant and ask for confirmation of whatever “low stress” or “fear free” marketing claims are made by a veterinary practice.

As a dog trainer, body-language expert, former veterinary technician – and certified Fear Free Professional myself – I knew that I wanted a compassionate and trained veterinarian and staff to help facilitate a smooth, peaceful, and painless transition for my 20-year-old feline companion, Yogi. Having recently moved to a new area, I searched online for a veterinary hospital whose website referenced fear-free veterinary protocols. I was thrilled to find one about an hour away. The website had several mentions of fear-free visits and one whole page explaining how the practice owners made the hospital fear-free. When I called to make the appointment for Yogi, I asked whether they were versed in Fear Free protocols and was assured that they were.

But after not one but two traumatic euthanasia experiences at the hospital (see “Pet Euthanasia Gone Wrong“), I found myself wondering about how the practitioners could possibly have credentials of any kind in fear-free or low-stress handling. I looked at the website again – and was stunned to realize that the language on the website was all in lower-case; there were no logos indicating the practice had either Fear Free or Low Stress Handling certifications.

I next emailed the customer-service representative at Fear Free asking if this hospital or any staff member was certified by Fear Free. I received an email stating that no one in the hospital was certified and that a Fear Free representative would contact the hospital regarding the language on the practice’s website. Within a few short hours, the language on the hospital website was changed, and now references how the business strives to make its veterinary hospital experience “stress free.”

Lesson learned: Don’t fall for buzzwords. Ask for proof of training, certification, or independent study, and insist on making an appointment with only those individuals who received the training that you want your veterinarian and technician to have.

Pet Euthanasia Protocols

The veterinarian who euthanized my cat and my foster dog used the same drug, in the same way (intra-muscular injection) as a pre-euthanasia sedative. Both animals had a very strong adverse reaction to the injection of the drug; the injection traumatized them and their frenzied responses traumatized me.

The day after the second awful experience, I called the veterinary clinic and asked for the name of the pre-euthanasia drug that was used on my cat and dog.

The drug is called Telazol. It’s a mix of two other drugs, tiletamine and zolazepam. I called Zoetis, the company that makes the drug, detailing the reaction that my animals had. I wanted to find out if the drug had been used improperly, or if the reaction my pets had was typical.

The Zoetis representative told me that while Telazol is not contraindicated to use as a pre-euthanasia sedative, it’s not the drug’s intended primary purpose; its primary purpose is as an anesthetic on difficult-to-manage animals for short procedures such as wound management, not for a pre-sedation before euthanasia. In headline-size type, the Zoetis website says Telazol “Provides restraint or anesthesia for cats and restraint and analgesia for dogs undergoing minor procedures.”

I also learned that the drug can sting badly when administered intramuscularly (IM).

I posted my experience on a closed Facebook group for Fear Free Professionals and asked what drugs or combinations of drugs do they use for a painless, peaceful euthanasia. None of the veterinary professionals in the Fear Free group used this drug in the manner that this vet used it.

All the veterinarians who responded said they mixed Telazol with other drugs and administered it subcutaneously (under the skin, commonly referred to as “sub-q”) rather than IM, because it’s less painful that way. Some didn’t use this drug at all, preferring other drugs, such as the combination of xylazine and ketamine best known by its veterinary nickname, “pre-mix.” Several vets also noted that “pre-mix” can also sting when administered IM. When an animal is emaciated, or has very little muscle tissue (as in the case of many senior cats and dogs, including my two wards), these drugs can cause so much pain when administered IM, that many of these vets inject the drugs sub-q, instead.

The most important bit of information that I gathered is this: There is no single right way to administer a pre-sedation drug or drug cocktail to every animal, every time. Ideally, the veterinarian should take into consideration a number of factors:

- The patient’s species (cat, dog)

- The patient’s physiological condition (obese or thin; well-muscled or lacking adequate muscle tissue; good or poor circulation; etc.)

- The patient’s behavior (calm, or agitated and fearful)

In fact, if a veterinarian uses the exact same drug protocol on every single animal, or will tell you exactly what drug will be used over the phone (before seeing the animal), it’s a red flag; this is absolutely a case in which the veterinarian should see and assess the animal’s condition before deciding which drug or drug combination to use, and how it will be administered (intramuscularly or subcutaneously).

I understand that no practitioner can sedate and euthanize without causing pain or fear in every animal, every time. But now I also know that a skilled, caring practitioner should see and evaluate each animal as an individual, and customize the drugs used and the way they are administered for the unique needs of each animal.

Before Making an Appointment for Euthanasia, Ask These Questions

You will undoubtedly have a meeting with a veterinarian if your dog’s condition is such that you are considering euthanasia as an alternative to suffering for days or weeks from a condition that is slowly or painfully killing him. That’s the time to ask your veterinarian questions about her protocol for euthanasia and listen keenly to her answers; they will tell you if she’s the right vet to help you and your pet at this most sensitive time.

Suggested questions:

• Can I give my pet something at home, before our appointment, that will help with her anxiety about entering the clinic?

• Do you usually sedate dogs before euthanasia? If so, with what?

• What is your protocol for euthanasia?

• What drug or drugs do you use?

• How do you administer these drugs?

• I want to be with my pet the entire time; is that okay?

• What should I be prepared for?

• Will I have time to stay with my pet?

Things to listen for in the veterinarian’s answers:

• “Pat” answers that indicate a rigid protocol, such as, “We always use this drug; it’s the best one.”

• An ideal response would be, “We will access the condition of your pet on the day of euthanasia and then we’ll decide on the appropriate drugs at that time.”

• Patience and compassion, for your pet and you: Did it seem that the veterinarian really listened to your questions, or did you feel rushed?

If you don’t feel completely comfortable with the answers or conversation, it would be wise to look for another veterinarian.

Be advised that in some areas, there are practitioners who specialize in hospice and end-of-life care; also, many house-call veterinarians report that home euthanasia is a large part of their practice. One directory of these practitioners can be found at Lap of Love.

If one of these specialists is available in your area and you can afford it (they may charge considerably more than a general practitioner would for euthanizing your pet), I’d highly recommend their services. I have found veterinarians who do home euthanasia to be deeply caring and compassionate; most vets who offer this service do so out of a strong desire to offer a highly personalized, unrushed experience.

Until my most recent experiences, all of my pets have been euthanized at home. I would have gladly paid any price for this service, but there aren’t any of these practitioners where I live now.

Trust Your Gut

I teach my dog-training clients to listen to their gut when choosing a vet, groomer, trainer, or boarding facility; if something doesn’t feel right, I tell them, you must be prepared to walk out the door and find a more appropriate person for your beloved pet.

But I have to acknowledge how difficult it is to do this when you are emotionally vulnerable and bracing oneself for something as upsetting as euthanasia. I spent days before each appointment preparing for the fateful day of letting these beloved pets be free of their suffering; even when things happened that I was unhappy about, I didn’t stop the procedure and decline to go through with it at that time.

I wish I had the presence of mind to stop the procedure when I noticed that the vet didn’t touch or greet either one of my animal companions before injecting the sedative. I should have walked out the door right then and there.

Trust me: You don’t want your last memory of your dog to be him screaming in pain and panic. My friends suffered and all I can do today is help educate as many people as I can in their honor.

Trainer Jill Breitner has been training dogs since 1978 and is a body language expert. She is the developer of the Dog Decoder smartphone app, which helps people identify and “de-code” their dogs’ body language for a better understanding. She is also a certified Fear Free Professional and certified in Animal Behavior and Welfare. She lives on the west coast and uses Skype for dog training consultations all over the world.

Pet Euthanasia Gone Wrong

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My cat Yogi was 20 years old, but the very picture of health until a malignant tumor took up residence in his mouth. It grew quickly and began causing Yogi much discomfort – so much so that he wouldn’t eat. I didn’t want my buddy to get to the point of immense suffering.

I moved about a year ago, and had looked for a veterinarian with Fear Free or Low Stress Handling credentials. I found a clinic that advertised itself as a fear-free hospital within an hour’s drive, and had visited the clinic several times without being either impressed or dismayed. I made an appointment to have Yogi euthanized at this clinic.

When the veterinarian entered the examination room, I told him I’d like Yogi to be sedated before the euthanasia drug was administered. He indicated that this was fine, and left the room. He came back with an assistant and a tiny syringe, saying, “This will sting a little but within less than five minutes he’ll be completely sedated, though his eyes will remain open. Are you ready?” I said yes. He then said that after he gave the sedation injection, he’d leave and come back in five minutes to euthanize Yogi.

yogi the cat

I’m not new to this procedure, but it never gets easier. As a vet tech, I assisted in the euthanasia of hundreds of pets; I’ve also supported friends, family, and clients during the euthanasia of their pets, and was present when all of my own animals passed. But what I experienced that day haunts me.

Yogi was very weak, had recently stopped eating, and had failing kidneys. Many animals in this condition don’t even notice an injection. I expected that he might feel a little prick and then slowly go to sleep – but that’s not what happened.

When the vet injected the drug into the muscle of Yogi’s hind leg, my cat screamed the loudest meow I’ve ever heard and, with a power he hadn’t displayed in years, thrust himself backward almost off the end of the table. The vet said, “You can let him go.” What?! I heard the words but my protective instinct kicked in; I was not going to let my frail friend crash to the floor! I was able to prevent him from falling off the table, but then he launched himself forward and upward out of my arms, flailing toward the wall. The vet and the tech stepped away from Yogi, as I flew to the other side of the table, catching him mid-air so he wouldn’t crash into the wall. They then excused themselves and left the room!

I sat with a now-comatose cat, limp, with eyes dilated and glassy. I held his fragile, soft, furry body – the same body that had just acted like super cat – and wept. What the hell just happened? I was in shock; the peaceful end I had hoped my friend would experience had instead turned hideously painful and traumatic.

A few minutes later, the vet and tech came back in, to give the final injection in a vein in Yogi’s hind leg. Within a minute, my boy was on his way to getting his wings to soar. As for me, the shock of Yogi’s last moments kept me silent except to say thank you as I picked up Yogi’s lifeless body to take home to bury.

That night, I couldn’t sleep, thinking how I betrayed my companion of 20 years by holding him while someone hurt and terrified him. I couldn’t shake the vision of Yogi’s last moments. Since I’d never experienced such a horrific euthanasia, I thought it was an anomaly – that his reaction was rare – and I vowed to disallow that drug, whatever it was, from being used on any of my animals again.

Horror Redux

Sadly, a few months later I would be facing another end-of-life decision, this time for a dear friend’s pet. My friend had passed away, and her spouse was having a tough time grieving her loss while caring for the special-needs dogs she left behind. In her honor, I asked if I could help care for the two senior dogs: Hopper, a 17-year-old, deaf, blind Chihuahua; and Buddy, a nine-year-old dog who was disabled with a spinal injury. My friend’s husband agreed, and I took them into my home.

It soon became clear to me that Hopper was failing. After a lengthy conversation with my friend’s spouse, we decided that it was time to let Hopper go, before his suffering was unbearable. Since I thought what happened with Yogi was an anomaly, I called the same veterinary practice to make an appointment to euthanize Hopper. Still, I planned to ask the veterinarian to use a different drug to sedate Hopper, so that the experience would be like all the other euthanasias I had witnessed. In addition, when I made the appointment, I asked for a sedative that I could give Hopper before we ever even got to the veterinary hospital; this little guy was blind and deaf and very vulnerable in his dark and silent world, and I wanted to give him all the help I could.

Hopper was very relaxed in my arms as we waited in the exam room. The veterinarian entered, and asked if I wanted to sedate Hopper further before administering the euthanasia drug. I said yes – but added that I didn’t want him to use the same drug that he used with Yogi.

The doctor responded that it should be fine for Hopper, because it’s harder on cats than dogs; just a little prick and in a few minutes he’d be completely sedated. I was stunned, thinking, “Wow, really?! You know it’s harder on cats than dogs and you gave it to my cat anyway?” But at the same time, I had this tiny dog in my arms on the table, not knowing what was going on, unable to see or hear, pressing his body against mine. I didn’t want to prolong the experience. I decided to trust the doctor’s word, that dogs don’t react to this drug like cats do, and since Hopper was already relaxed from the sedative I’d given him, it would be fine. So I said, “Okay, if you think the same thing won’t happen, then it’s time; yes, go ahead.”

I held Hopper while the vet gave the injection into the muscle in Hopper’s hind leg. There was no reaction from Hopper, thank goodness. Phew! The vet left the room.

Five minutes later, Hopper was still sitting in my arms, as awake and relaxed as he had been since we arrived. The vet came back in and looked at Hopper, amazed that he wasn’t fully sedated. “Wow,” said the doctor. “I’ve never seen this before. He’s not sedated at all.”

“No, he’s not,” I said. “Perhaps the syringe was empty?”

The vet looked at me as if I was crazy. He said, “NO, I gave the injection.” I remained silent, having said what I thought to be true, that perhaps the syringe was empty. He said he would go get another injection.

When the vet came back in, I suggested that he inject Hopper’s other hind leg. He agreed, saying, “There must have been no circulation in that other leg and that’s why the first injection didn’t work.”

I held Hopper while the vet gave the injection – and this time, Hopper screamed, became Superman, and started biting at the air. Blind, he was in a state of sheer panic and pain as I held him, snapping wildly. I looked into the vet’s eyes with fire in mine. He left the room, saying he’d be back in five minutes.

The moment the door closed, Hopper collapsed in my arms. I held him close, apologizing to him and crying my eyes out. I couldn’t believe this happened again. I was stricken because I had let Hopper down – I had let down his owner, my deceased friend! I was reliving Yogi’s horrible experience, and beside myself with anger and despair – and it still wasn’t over for Hopper.

Five of the longest minutes later, the vet and the technician came back in. They said nothing as they worked together to insert the needle into a vein and administer the euthanasia drug. I wept quietly, petting Hopper and silently imploring him to forgive me. Hopper’s end, like Yogi’s, wasn’t painless nor fear-free. I felt this was a heinous crime and I was complicit.It was all I could do to drive home afterward, taking deep breaths to calm myself, wiping the tears that kept falling down my face, and talking out loud to both of my deceased friends, Hopper and his owner, the whole way. It was gibberish chatter to help me make it home.

I feel terrible that it took two awful experiences to investigate the drug that caused such pain and terror in the two animals in my care, as well as the credentials behind the “fear free” claim made on the veterinary practice’s website, only to learn that the drug used in this way is not remotely the best protocol, and that no one in the veterinary hospital had any actual training or credentials in fear-free or low-stress handling.

After being upset to the point of immobility for days, I decided that I could, at the very least, try to prevent any other animals from suffering needlessly before being euthanized while their loving guardians witness their pain and terror. I don’t want any animal to go through what mine did, or any guardian to have this haunting memory seared into their minds for the rest of their lives.

I am now on a mission to spread information about ways to do everything a guardian can do to ensure a good death for her beloved animal companions when it’s time.

The “Art” of Euthanasia

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A few days ago, I read Jill Breitner’s post in a veterinary group about euthanasias that were stressful for both her and her pets. From the account, it would seem that the injection of the pre-sedative drug stung, causing a sudden panic reaction in the patient. While the procedures were uneventful after that point, the memory of the pets’ dramatic reactions haunted their guardian. (See “Pet Euthanasia Gone Wrong,” August 2017).

In more than 30 years as a veterinarian, I have heard of a number of accounts similar to this. In my career, though, I have dedicated my practice to using only low-stress techniques, especially at the end of life. This is the art of euthanasia.

The veterinarian did warn Jill that the injection of sedative might sting her pets, but she was completely unprepared for the degree of her pets’ reactions, which seemed aberrant and needlessly painful. And unfortunately, the pets’ startling reactions are a major part of the last memories she has of her animal companions.

It is not just the last breath. As a young veterinarian, I would wonder why owners would cling to their elderly dogs, asking only for a nail trim and refusing an exam. I finally asked one owner if I could examine her dog so I could help her

keep her pet healthy. She responded, “Okay, but don’t tell me I have to put my dog down.” I sincerely reassured her that this was not my agenda, and was finally able to examine the dog. As I worked, she shared the story of her previous pet’s euthanasia, and her fears about facing that event with her present senior dog. The grief-filled memory from 15 years earlier was ever-present in her mind, especially with her current senior dog.

Veterinary Industry in Transition

I didn’t have any training in euthanasia as a veterinarian. That may seem hard to believe, given that veterinarians may perform that procedure daily. All of my training came from on-the-job experience. Today, many vets receive training about client grief, and yet still learn little about the actual euthanasia procedure. Training in how to provide a peaceful relief of suffering is not standard in the veterinary educational system.

Pre-euthanasia sedation cocktails were first introduced by anesthesiologists in the 1990s. I attended a presentation on the topic in 1997 and never did a euthanasia without pre-sedation again.

At the North American Veterinary Conference in 2012, Dr. Dani McVety, founder of Lap of Love, a network of veterinary hospice providers, shared her euthanasia protocol, stressing the importance of a pre-euthanasia experience with no pain, reliable sedation, achieved with only one injection. She clearly defined the art of euthanasia. I felt good that my staff and I were already providing that care and had embraced it through our commitment to Low Stress veterinary practice.

The Patient Experience is Paramount

Providing a pain-free, smooth transition from awake, to asleep, then no longer alive, is not easy. The veterinarian and staff must have a plan for minimizing the patient’s pain, stress, and anxiety – before the appointment if possible. All thought must go to using drug mixtures that will not add to the patient’s present pain or anxiety. Drug delivery needs to be non-stressful to allow the body to respond in gradual relaxation.

That said, it’s important to realize that there is no single protocol or drug that will deliver this experience for every patient, under every circumstance. And in some practices, veterinarians and staff are held to strict protocols. In other practices, there may be a lack of understanding the holistic nature of euthanasia. Some pain with injection cannot be eliminated, yet one can choose the best route of administration to minimize this. Low-stress options include diluting injectable drugs, using local anesthetic creams to reduce the pain of injection, and using a butterfly needle rather than a catheter.

The setting for euthanasia is also not always the most calm. Yet the focus must be on a smooth transition from life to death, no matter what setting, age, or status of the patient. The best patient experience is what provides the best client experience. The last memory is always the one freshest in our minds and what we carry with us.

While I cannot make all euthanasia experiences perfect, I can take many steps and custom-tailor the products I use to each individual patient, in order to provide something as close to perfect as possible. I hope that the low-stress veterinary-care movement gains ground, and that education in the art of euthanasia becomes standard. Our patients and the people who love them deserve this.

Dr. Sally J. Foote is owner and head veterinarian of Okaw Veterinary Clinic in Tuscola, Illinois. Dr. Foote’s certifications include Low Stress Handling Silver Certified, Fear Free Professional, and Animal Behavior Consultant by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Dr. Foote is also currently the President of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and the Executive Director of CattleDog Publishing, the legacy of Dr. Sophia Yin.

Support Group

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Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

Thanks very much for the many compassionate messages of support and sympathy for the tragic loss of Tito and my former foster dog, Ruby. Many readers commented on the post I wrote on the Whole Dog Journal blog page about the incidents that led to the dogs’ deaths (one as a result of injuries, and one by euthanasia) – and many readers told their own heartbreaking stories dog-aggressive dogs that they loved and tried to rehabilitate. It’s impossible to refrain from blaming oneself for the many missteps that we can’t help but take when trying to manage such an unmanageable situation, but it helps to know that none of us are the only ones who have experienced it.

Speaking of euthanasia, this issue contains an important article about the emotional rending practice, and things to consider before making this final veterinary appointment for your terminally ill dog. While seeking a painless and peaceful end for two geriatric pets, trainer Jill Breitner had not one but two terrible experiences with a practitioner who claimed to practice “fear free” medicine. Breitner explains how to find a veterinarian who truly practices Fear Free or Low Stress handling, and why it’s critical to employ one of these professionals at the end of your dog’s life.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise to any of you that life with dogs is highly emotional. Our canine companions can make us laugh hard and cry hard, sometimes on the same day! But I, for one, wouldn’t trade my time with them, even the difficult ones, for anything else in the world. I’ve learned so much from working with them – and there is always more to learn. This month, I’m taking Training Editor Pat Miller’s article on “demand behaviors” to heart in order to deal with a budding problem with Woody’s newfound attention-seeking behavior. I feel just like any other dog-training student as I fail, again and again, to ignore his repeated efforts to engage me; he’s just so cute!

dog needs attention

When a Difficult Event – Euthanasia – Is Made Far More Difficult

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Euthanizing any pet is emotionally difficult. You know what’s going on, and the pet doesn’t; there is a lot of guilt around that. Even when the animal has been suffering, and is likely to suffer far more if you chose not to arrange for this humane assistance, most of us feel at least a little bit of guilt about bringing our friend to the vet (or a housecall vet to our pet) for that final visit. You may be experiencing anticipatory grief and sadness. You may also be feeling doubt: Is this really the time? Did we do everything we could?

I’ve attended the euthanasia of a number of animals, my own, and those who belonged to friends or relatives who felt they couldn’t be present. I’ve been present for the euthanasia of dogs and cats, my family milk cow, and several horses. It was wrenching emotionally every time – and yet, every single time, the process went smoothly. Every veterinarian who has helped my animal friends pass from consciousness has induced this calmly, professionally, and with great sensitivity. Given the difficulties with the medical or behavioral problems and trauma that necessitated each euthanasia, I couldn’t be more grateful to the veterinary professionals who provided this valuable service.

But I guess I’ve been fortunate; I’ve never been present for a “bad” euthanasia. It stands to reason that the drugs can’t always affect all animals they are administered to exactly the same way. Every drug can cause a bad reaction, or be ineffective, in some individuals. And not all vets or vet techs are equally skilled at handling pets (especially pets who are in pain); not all are kind and empathetic.

In the August issue of WDJ, we’ve published accounts of two unpleasant euthanasia procedures – events that have left the owner involved feeling traumatized and guilty – and a discussion of how to do the most you can to ensure that your pet’s final vet visit is without fear, pain, or trauma. Of course, you can’t control the experience; you can only choose the veterinary hospital and veterinarian with whom you feel most comfortable, and then you have to sort of hope for the best: a calm, pain-free passage from this life to whatever comes next. The article offers a lot to think about, and a lot to ask your veterinarian, before scheduling an appointment for euthanasia.

Did you ever experience a traumatic event during the euthanasia of one of your pets? Was there anything you would have done differently?

 

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