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Hematochezia in Dogs and Causes of Rectal Bleeding

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Hematochezia in dogs can have many causes.
It’s always a good idea to keep an eye on your dog’s stool. If you notice blood, it may be time to talk with your vet. Credit: Brian Husband / 500px | Getty Images

A dog bleeding from the butt could be a simple case of mild irritation, or it could indicate a serious clotting disorder. If your dog just has mild intermittent bleeding, he probably has a minor issue such as intestinal worms or an impacted anal gland. If the bleeding is severe or he has other signs of illness, call your veterinarian immediately.

Hematochezia in Dogs

Hematochezia is when there is bright red, fresh blood in your dog’s stool. You might notice the blood as your dog defecates, but more likely you will spot it as you scoop or bag the poop for disposal.

Bright red blood on or in the stool comes from either the colon (large intestine) or your dog’s rectum or anus. Blood from the small intestines will appear dark and tarry when passed in the stool and is called melena. Why the color difference? Blood that originates in the small intestines gets partially digested before it is passed in the stool whereas blood from the large intestine and beyond is passed fresh.

Rectal Bleeding in Dogs

A dog bleeding from the butt does not have to be associated with defecation. You might notice a small trail of blood from your dog’s anus, or blood spotting when he sits or lies down. This type of bleeding is usually due to an issue in the perianal area on your dog’s back end near his anus, or from just inside the rectum.

Why is My Dog Bleeding from the Butt?

There are many potential causes for hematochezia and rectal bleeding in dogs such as:

  • Dietary indiscretion
  • Intestinal obstruction
  • Trauma to the intestines, rectum, or perianal area
  • Internal parasites
  • Constipation
  • Diarrhea
  • Impacted or infected anal sac(s)
  • Ruptured anal sac(s)
  • Ulcers within the digestive tract
  • Perianal fistulae
  • Irritable bowel disease (IBD)
  • Acute hemorrhagic diarrhea syndrome (AHDS)
  • Viral diseases such as parvovirus, especially in unvaccinated puppies
  • Clotting disorders due to toxicity, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Von Willebrand disease, etc.
  • Cancer in the GI tract or perianal area

If your dog is acting normal, or just has mild diarrhea, you can drop a stool sample off at your veterinary office. The staff will do a fecal exam to check for parasites.

If the bloody stool persists more than a day or two or if your dog is showing other signs of illness, he will need a veterinary exam to figure out what is going on. Your vet will ask questions about your dog’s behavior and recent activities, stool quality, and any changes in his routine (including getting into something).

Some tests your vet may recommend include:

  • Fecal exam
  • Anal sac expression
  • Rectal exam
  • X-rays and/or ultrasound
  • Bloodwork
  • Parvo test
  • Endoscopy or colonoscopy

The exact tests will depend on what symptoms your dog is showing and which problem(s) your veterinarian thinks is the most likely cause.

Causes of Hematochezia in Dogs

Intestinal Parasites

Intestinal parasites can range from worms to protozoa and several types can cause hematochezia in dogs. Any dog living in any location can be exposed to these parasites! Most worms are spread in feces, so dogs can contract them by sniffing infected feces from wildlife, other dogs, or cats. Protozoa such as giardia can also be picked up from contaminated water and soil. Puppies and immunocompromised dogs are at highest risk of illness from a heavy parasite load.

Dogs with a heavy parasite load may lose weight or, in the case of young puppies, fail to thrive and grow normally.

Many parasites can be prevented with regular deworming. If your dog is not on a regular deworming schedule, or if he has a parasite that isn’t covered by your usual product, your veterinarian will prescribe an appropriate treatment.

Poop Woes

Both constipation (large, hard stools that are difficult to pass) and diarrhea (soft, loose stools) can cause bleeding as your dog strains to defecate. In most cases where there is just a small amount of blood in or on the stool, the blood is not a big deal—focus on getting treatment for the constipation or diarrhea and the bleeding will resolve.

A large amount of blood in or on the stool, or bloody stool that persists for several days, may be more significant. Heavy bleeding when defecating could indicate an injury within the rectum or colon or a health condition that is causing bleeding within those organs.

Both constipation and diarrhea can be helped by giving a probiotic or some plain canned pumpkin on a regular basis. Severe constipation may require enemas at the vet clinic or manual deobstipation under sedation. Your vet may also prescribe laxatives. Severe diarrhea may require medications from your vet. Vomiting and diarrhea at the same time is an emergency.

Anal Sac Problems

The anal sacs are located just inside your dog’s anus and are supposed to empty a bit each time your dog poops. This material is what gives your dog’s stool its lovely aroma. The anal sacs can become impacted for a number of reasons, which in turn leads to buildup, discomfort, and eventually infection or rupture of the sacs.

Scooting is a very common sign of anal sac issues, but you may also see your dog licking and chewing at his back end frequently or notice reddened skin around the anus. You may also see foul-smelling discharge from the anus, potentially tinged with blood. The blood may be from the irritated anal sacs themselves, or from damage to the anus as your dog licks and chews at the area.

Your veterinarian will palpate the anal glands and express them manually if needed. In case of infection or rupture, pain meds and antibiotics will be prescribed.

Intestinal Obstruction

If your dog ate something he shouldn’t have and it is stuck in his GI tract, this can cause diarrhea with or without blood, vomiting, weight loss, and lethargy. Make note of anything that goes missing in your home or yard, especially if your dog likes to chew.

Obstructions can often be seen on x-rays. The item might pass on its own or require removal via endoscopy, colonoscopy, or abdominal surgery. Linear foreign bodies, such as string, fishing line, rope, or tinsel, require immediate surgical intervention to prevent severe damage to the intestines.

Perianal Fistulae

A perianal fistula is a draining tract located around the anus. This is an autoimmune disorder most common in German Shepherd Dogs, but any dog can be affected. Dogs usually have multiple open crevices around the anus which drain pus and blood. This condition is extremely painful, and the dogs often struggle to defecate.

Perianal fistulae often cannot be cured and require lifelong treatment with immunomodulating medications such as cyclosporine.

Irritable Bowel Disease

IBD is a frustrating condition as it is difficult to diagnose and to manage. Affected dogs often experience chronic diarrhea—which may or may not be accompanied by hematochezia—weight loss, and may have poor appetite or energy levels. They may also vomit frequently. IBD is considered an autoimmune disorder and food allergies or intolerances can play a role.

Treatment often consists of diet trials, prescription food, probiotics, immune medications, and/or other medications depending on the case.

Acute Hemorrhagic Diarrhea Syndrome

Also known as hemorrhagic enteritis or hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, acute hemorrhagic diarrhea syndrome (AHDS) is when the dog has severe bloody, watery diarrhea due to intestinal inflammation and bleeding. AHDS can occur on its own, or may be concurrent with IBD, parvovirus, or pancreatitis.

Dogs with AHDS are often very sick, and also likely to vomit (possibly with blood). AHDS is an emergency as the dog can become dehydrated and go into shock quickly. Treatment consists of hospitalization with IV fluids, pain and antinausea medications, and probiotics.

Parvovirus

Parvo is an extremely contagious viral disease in canines that causes severe diarrhea and lethargy. If left untreated it is often fatal, especially in puppies.

If your puppy has not completed his parvo vaccine series and has more than one bout of diarrhea, with or without blood, this is an emergency.

Treatment consists of supportive care (often in the hospital), fluid therapy, antinausea medications, and antibiotics. There is a monoclonal antibody injection that can help to reduce viral replication, but this is not widely available and is expensive.

Parvo can be prevented with vaccination. All healthy dogs and puppies should be vaccinated against parvo, both to protect the individual dog and to keep puppies and immunocompromised dogs in our communities safe from this disease.

Clotting Disorders

Clotting issues can be caused by genetic disorders such as Von Willebrand disease, acquired diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or consuming a toxic substance such as rat poison.

If your dog is not clotting normally, you may notice blood on his stool, bleeding from the rectum, bruising on his body, or pinpricks of red across large areas of his body. Cuts and scrapes may bleed longer than expected.

Treatment will vary depending on why your dog is not clotting normally. Emergency care and blood transfusion may be necessary in some cases.

Cancer

Malignant tumors within the GI tract or in your dog’s perianal area can either bleed or cause bleeding in the surrounding tissues. Dogs with cancer often experience unexplained weight loss and may be lethargic with a poor appetite. Depending on the location of the tumor, you may see a visible mass on your dog’s back end that is ulcerated and irritated, or may just see periodic bleeding from the anus.

Perianal tumors and anal sac tumors can often be removed surgically. In intact male dogs, perianal adenomas are a benign tumor that can be cured with castration. Chemotherapy, radiation, and supportive care may all be options depending on your dog’s exact tumor type and overall condition.

Minor Causes Hematochezia in Dogs

If your dog seems happy and healthy and just has a little blood on his stool, he probably either ate something that he shouldn’t have that scraped or irritated his GI tract or had a particularly large and firm stool that damaged his anus as he strained to defecate. Something like this that happens only rarely is nothing to worry about, but if it happens frequently, talk to your veterinarian.

Treatment for a Dog Bleeding from the Anus

Treatment will vary depending on what has caused your dog to bleed rectally or have blood on his stool. Minor GI upset can usually be treated by feeding a bland diet for a few days until your dog is passing normal stools. More serious illnesses may require medications and/or supportive care from your veterinarian.

When to See a Vet About Rectal Bleeding or Blood in Your Dog’s Stool

Call your veterinarian if your dog:

  • Has had mild bleeding from the rectum or blood in his stool for more than 48 hours
  • Has severe rectal bleeding or diarrhea
  • Is both vomiting and has diarrhea
  • Has chronic weight loss along with bloody stool
  • Scoots his butt and has bloody stool
  • Has obvious crevices, sores, ulcers, or lumps around his anus

The Best Dog Sunscreen

If your dog is prone to sunburn then the best dog sunscreens can help protect him.
If your dog is prone to sunburn, a good sunscreen can help. We tested four dog sunscreens to find the best options for summer sun protection. Credit: Jae Thomas
If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, a good sunscreen can help protect them. Here are some of our favorites.
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Home Care for Dog Stye

A dog stye can be treated at home, but redness does not always mean a stye.
Just because your dog’s eye is red, doesn’t mean it’s a style. If you’re not certain, a veterinary visit is in order. (This is not a stye.) Credit: Irina Meshcheryakova - Getty Images

Have you experienced your dog getting a stye on his eye? It is painful. How do you know whether it’s a veterinary emergency or not? That may require your veterinarian.

A dog stye is a painful red bump on your dog’s eyelid. It typically results from when an oil gland or hair follicle on your dog’s eyelid gets blocked and then infected. This can affect dogs of any age, but it’s usually more likely to occur on older dogs as well as certain breeds such as those with brachycephalic features.

Most mild dog eye styes can easily be treated at home, provided you be mindful of watching for worsening symptoms. It is, however, important to make sure that it is indeed a stye versus another eye condition such as eyelid infection or tumor or a chalazion, which is a usually non-painful lump inside of the eyelid.

Is That a Stye on My Dog’s Eye?

A stye in a dog is on the outside of the eyelid. It is usually inflamed and can look red or pink around the edges of the eyelid. There will be increased blinking or squinting notable in the dog. Your dog may paw at his eye, and there may be increased discharge.

If these symptoms are mild, you can attempt to treat this yourself. If it interferes with your dog’s quality of life, a veterinary visit is in prompt order! Provided that the stye is on the milder side and you practice good hygiene while treating it, it may clear up in a few days to a week. This treatment is a bit intrusive, and not all dogs will welcome it without restraint. Therefore, teaching your dog some cooperative care practices is like putting money in the bank for when you need it.

Steps to Take Caring for a Dog Stye

  1. Use a warm wet washcloth (not hot please!) with excess water wrung out to gently pat the area where the stye is. You can hold it there for about a minute if your dog is comfortable with such. You can also gently massage that area to promote drainage again if your dog is comfortable with this process. Do this two to three times a day. It should go without saying that the water needs to be a safe and comfortable temperature for your dog and the pressure used should be very light.
  2. Ask your vet’s opinion on saline solutions or nonprescription eye washes that are safe for dogs so that you can try that at home before a vet visit. Please do not choose something like this with veterinary approval.
  3. If your dog is fussing over the stye with any amount of pawing, you may need to consider using an Elizabethan collar or similar device that stops the dog from getting to the eye.
  4. If the stye is worsening at all or not showing signs of improvement within a week, please consider a veterinary visit ASAP. Caring for your dog’s eyesight is an important part of their health-care program.

Male Dog Wraps for Urine

A puffy white male dogs looking at the camera while his owner puts him in a dog diaper.
A reliable male dog diaper fits your dog comfortably, is affordable, and easy to use. Credit: CatherScarl | Getty Images

What is a belly band or male dog wrap? A belly band is essentially a male dog diaper for inappropriate/incontinent urination. No one wants to have to use a male dog diaper, but stuff happens and these little wonders can make an inconvenient situation much better.

Inappropriate urination can happen for a variety of reasons:

  • Potty training that is in process but needs a little tweak
  • Adolescent male dogs who like to mark
  • Senior dogs can have incontinence issues
  • Excitement pee
  • Illness

Way back during my Doberman rescue life, I had a 125-lb Doberman who was fond of marking indoor areas. Obviously, I strongly disapproved of this action. So that beautiful but not terribly bright boy wore the biggest male dog wrap on the planet. It had a lovely pattern of colorful bones all over it. He looked very silly, but it did the job. I was happy. He figured it out and was able to go commando very quickly.

Using a belly band is saving yourself from a huge amount of clean up and it’s saving your household belongings from urine damage. These little miracles can literally be a sanity saver. (CAVEAT: Using these items for potty training without an actual potty-training protocol is not appropriate.)

What Makes a Good Dog Belly Band?

A good belly band keeps the moisture inside, fits your dog comfortably, is easy to care for, and affordable. Unlike doggy diapers, which contain excrement as well, belly bands have one specific purpose and that is to simply wrap around a male dog’s penis to prevent urine from getting outside of the band. They allow normal movement. Nothing is restricted but the urine flow.

Many belly bands are used with an absorbent sanitary pad inserted inside to staunch the urine flow. There is one brand that I found that comes with a reusable absorbent pad. Otherwise, purchasing simple sanitary napkins is the way to go.

What Size Dog Diaper?

You may be wondering how to best measure your dog for a belly band. Get help if needed with keeping your dog in a stationary position on a flat surface. Think “stacking in dog shows” positioning. Use a flexible (sewing style) measuring tape around the narrowest part of your dog’s waist, closest to the rear legs. Make sure that you do not tighten it. Take note of that measurement and compare it to the measurements of the individual size ranges.

Don’t forget that there are Velcro closures on all these brands that will help you get the best fit. If your dog is between sizes, it’s important to go one size up rather than down. A tight belly band will not help you or your dog and can cause chafing. No one likes chafing, least of all the dog. Extra veterinary bills won’t improve the situation!

When to Change the Belly Band

How often should you change a belly band? Well, they are the dog equivalent of a baby’s diapers. The ideal time frame is immediately upon use to prevent skin irritation. Check frequently for incontinent dogs.

With dogs who are learning to not mark all the things, this is a similar process to potty training basically. Note their behavior and check if they have left the room. Personally, what I would expect with marking behavior is that marking inside of the belly band once or twice will usually have the positive effect of preventing this behavior moving forward.

It’s the same with simply polishing up potty training. They learn to come to you to ask to go outside. It sounds like common sense but please do remember to take the belly band off when you take them outside for pottying/walking purposes! It will send mixed messages if you forget.

Ideally, it would best to spend some time conditioning your dog to wearing a belly band before just placing it on him out of the blue. This can easily be done with treats, both when placing it on him initially and to help him feel more comfortable about walking around while wearing it.

Act naturally and use plenty of verbal reinforcement when he starts moving around naturally. This is an important part of this process. The more normal that you act and the more that he associates this process with rewards, the easier it will be.

How to Choose a Dog Belly Band

What I looked for in a belly band:

  • Affordability
  • Adequate size range
  • Easy fit
  • Quality of construction
  • Ease of care
  • Style

I tested the small-dog versions, and I stayed with the washable versions. There are disposable male dog diapers, but that can get expensive quickly. Some of these have different features depending on the size of the dog. These are all available on Amazon, and some are available on Chewy. Several brands listed below are also available at Walmart. Not all brands have their own website, but those that do are noted.

WDJ Product ratings

CuteBone Dog Belly Band

Cute bone male dog diapers on a white background.

The CuteBone Dog Belly Band comes in nice patterns inside of a zip-closed reusable bag. It has an opening inside that one can fit an extra pad in, which is super handy. This brand was the most absorbent of all five that I tested. The elastic was snug without feeling tight. I was concerned about the look of the Velcro, but it held tight and has a wide coverage. It is machine washable but requires air drying.

Price: From $8.99 – $23.38, package of three

Size range: X-small, small, medium, large, X-large

Whole Dog Journal Rating: Four paws

Teamoy Male Dog Diaper Wrap

Teamoy male dog diapers.

The Teamoy Male Dog Diaper belly bands come in two types, with and without an extra pad inside. I tested the kind with the extra pad. This brand was very absorbent, especially with the extra pad. The elastic is snug but not tight, with no leakage. The Velcro is cheap looking, though, and although it held just fine, the coverage is less than the other brands. It’s very plain compared to other brands if one is concerned with style. Machine wash but air dry.

Price: $15.99 – $24.99, package of three

Size range: small, medium, and L1

Price: Without the extra pad $10.99 through $28.99, package of three

Size range: X-small, small, medium, large L2, X-large, and 2XL-large

Whole Dog Journal Rating: Three paws

Wegreeco Washable Male Dog Belly Band

Three Weegreeco male dog diapers on display.

The Wegreeco Belly Bands come in a very nice distressed blue jeans pattern. The elastic is snug but not tight. It has nice-quality Velcro with wide coverage. Machine washable and tumble dry.

Price: $9.95 – $28.99, package of three

Size range: x-small, small, medium, large, x-large, and xx-large

Whole Dog Journal Rating: Three paws

Langsprit Male Dog Belly Bands

Three langspirit male dog diapers displayed for sale.

The Langsprit Male Dog Belly Band is from a small family-owned business, which I always like to support. It has very nice patterns and feels like quality material unlike some others I tested. The bands were very absorbent, and there was no leakage. However, the elastic does not seem as tight as the others. The Velcro is quality with a wide coverage. Machine wash and tumble dry. Comes with a bit of extra Velcro.

Price: $9.95 – $28.99, package of three

Size range: X-small, small, medium, large, X-large, XX-large

Whole Dog Journal Rating: Three paws

Paw Legend Washable Dog Belly Band for Male Dogs

Paw legend male dog diapers on display.

The Paw Legend Belly Bands were the only ones that I tried that felt silky inside rather than absorbent. I believe that silkiness caused leakage. The elastic of this brand was also not as snug as the others, which likely also contributed to the leakage. The Velcro on the other hand, was super tight, which made them difficult to remove and would potentially cause some anxiety for some dogs. The band comes in plain colors. No care instructions came with them the product, but the listing states machine washable with normal laundry. It makes no mention of drying.

Price: $8.99 through $25.99

Size range: X-small, small, medium, large, X-large, and XX-large

Whole Dog Journal Rating: Two paws

Best Male Dog Diaper: Cute Bone

The clear winner was the Cute Bone brand, with both absorbency and style topping that list. No one’s dog would be embarrassed to be seen in these belly bands. Adding to the winning assets was the handy reusable storage bag as well as the ability to add an additional absorbent pad inside. That is generally how belly bands are expected to be used but I found no other brands that had that opening, aside from the brand that offers an extra pad, but in such limited sizes.

Overall, this is the one that I would choose if I ever need to have my boy dogs limit their marking ability while learning to make better choices. Additionally, I felt that this brand had the best moisture wicking properties, while holding a good bit of liquid. No need to cause skin rashes on one’s dog when they are incontinent.

Second choice was less clear between the Teamoy, the Wegreeco, and the Langsprit brands. I loved the style of the Wegreeco and the Langsprit bands as well as the quality Velcro in the Wegreeco and the Langsprit bands, but it’s tough to ignore the extra pad insert that Teamoy offers, albeit in only the three sizes.

Overall, it all will depend on what is most important to you that they all offer individually. Style over the extra pad, if indeed you have a dog in need who fits into those three sizes. All these brands had good moisture wicking abilities as well as the ability to hold a decent amount of moisture, with the Langsprit slightly lagging behind in moisture wicking.

Unfortunately, the Paw Legend brand was the only belly band with silkiness inside as well as a less secure elastic, and both contributed to leakage. Not good. The last thing any dog parent with a leaky dog needs is an unreliable belly band.

Turkey Tail Mushrooms for Dogs

Turkey tail mushroom for dogs is a popular supplement for canine health.
Although few scientific studies have been done, some evidence suggests that turkey tail mushrooms may be beneficial for dogs with some kinds of cancer. Credit: Ed Reschke | Getty Images

Since ancient times, humans have relied on the properties of medicinal mushrooms and other fungi to treat health problems. In traditional Chinese medicine, practitioners use fungi to treat cancer, boost the immune system, fight inflammation and infections, and treat kidney disease, to name just a few of their uses. Ancient Egyptians believed mushrooms conferred immortality—or at least long life.

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When Seizures Win in Dogs

When is it time to put down a dog with seizures.
There can come a time with a dog who suffers from multiple seizures to seriously consider euthanasia. Credit: Zontica | Getty Images

Many dogs have their epileptic seizures under good control and lead reasonably normal lives. Until they don’t. Some dogs never really get their seizures under control. And if a senior dog starts with seizures (other than a toxin exposure), they are often the result of a terminal metabolic illness such as severe liver disease or of cancer in the brain, primary or metastatic.

Dogs who start seizing at a young age, especially if they start right off with frequent seizures, tend to have a poor prognosis. Dogs who have bouts of cluster seizures (multiple seizures within 24 hours) or status epilepticus (seizures that last more than 5 minutes) have a grave prognosis.

According to a University of Missouri study, 40% to 60% of dogs with epilepsy who have one or more episodes of cluster seizures or status epilepsy will have a mean lifespan of only 8 years. This is compared to 11 years for those with epilepsy without these episodes. Death may be via euthanasia or directly from the seizure episode.

Severity of seizures may vary within breeds as well. A study out of Denmark showed Boxers to have a very grave prognosis. Anecdotally, Border Collies can be difficult to get into remission from seizure disorders.

How to Decide the Seizures Have Won in Your Dog

How do you decide when the seizures have won? There are many protocols for looking at Quality of Life (QOL).

The first step is for you to start a journal if you don’t already have one. This helps you with some objectivity. You write down important status indicators daily, such as did your dog eat, did he have normal elimination, was he willing and able to go for a walk? These are black-and-white observations. Others are more subtle:

  • Did your dog respond to his favorite toy?
  • Did your dog engage with you for petting and/or playing?
  • If your dog had a seizure, how long was it?
  • Did you notice signs that preceded the seizure?
  • How long did it take for your dog to recover, and how long to “being normal”?

If your dog had a seizure, especially status epilepticus or a day of cluster seizures, did he return to fully normal? Some dogs will have residual blindness or remain somewhat disoriented. In my experience, dogs with a seizure from something like cancer in the brain, often do not return to “normal,” as opposed to dogs with genetic or idiopathic epilepsy.

The HHHHHMM Scale for Dogs

One QOL protocol is HHHHHMM.

Dogs are scored from 0 to 10 for each category, with 10 being the Best and 0 being the Worst. The categories are:

  • Hurt
  • Hunger
  • Hydration
  • Hygiene
  • Happiness
  • Mobility
  • More good days

This scale was devised by Dr. Alice Villalobos. Ideally your dog should score over 35.

The categories are somewhat self-explanatory and some may overlap. For example, if your dog is not mobile and can’t get up to go outside to eliminate, then hygiene will suffer as he lays in a puddle of pee or soils himself with stool.

Happiness and More good days will be very subjective evaluations for the most part. If your dog is having seizures despite being on medication for 4 days out of the week, he is definitely NOT having more good days than bad ones.

Scoring will also vary what you are capable of and willing to do for your dog. Some owners handle doggy diapers with aplomb and can keep their dogs clean. That is easier if you have a Chihuahua versus a Mastiff. Likewise, a low score in one area may be enough to tip your decision for euthanasia. If your dog won’t eat or has multiple seizures frequently, quality of life has to suffer.

Being Objective with Euthanasia

The daily journal and chart to rank your dog’s status can really help you with objectivity. You need to keep in mind that your dog is totally dependent on you. Despite the pain it will cause you, if your dog is suffering, his needs need to come first. I tell people that a decision for euthanasia, made of love for your dog, will be one of the most unselfish and courageous decisions you ever make in your life. People who have been through this decision making have their own sayings, such as “Better a day early than a day late” to help their dog avoid pain and discomfort.

The decision may be taken out of your hands if your dog goes into status epilepticus and can’t be brought out of his seizures. He may die directly from the seizures, or you may need to proceed to relieve him of his suffering.

In-Home Euthanasia for Dogs

Many areas now offer the option of in-home euthanasia if that is what you need. If your own veterinary clinic does not offer that, you can ask them about local veterinarians who could do it. No matter where it happens, your dog will be given a sedative to help ease his mind. If possible, a catheter will be placed to allow for smooth injection of the euthanasia drug.

You are allowed to stay and hold your dog or pet his head and talk to him. While your own heart is breaking, you need to try and stay calm for your dog. Tell him you love him, you will miss him, and for him to wait for you by the Rainbow Bridge. It is hard to describe, but there is almost always a brief feeling of profound peace when your dog’s spirit leaves.

If euthanasia is done at home, you may want your other pets to view the body. I would advise not having them present during the actual procedure, however.

Ideally, you have planned for either burial or cremation. Most families now choose cremation and take the ashes home. Many clinics will offer you a lock of hair and/or a footprint in clay to help remember your pet by.

I will also get on a soapbox here. I hope that before euthanasia is done (unless an emergency type situation of course) you look into epilepsy studies for dogs. Donating a cheek swab or a blood sample can help to provide the knowledge to identify which genes cause epilepsy. If a genetic marker could be identified, breeders could avoid producing dogs that would suffer from this devastating condition. One example is this study at Cornell University on the Belgian breeds.

Why Do Dogs Lick Your Feet? Understanding This Quirky Canine Behavior

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Why do dogs lick your feet? Because they're there.
If your dog likes to lick your feet, you’ll need to be careful when using products that might be toxic to them. Credit: Anna Reshetnikova | Getty Images

Has your dog earned the distinction of being nicknamed Sir Licks-a-Lot for giving slobbery kisses and gooey licks to your hands, toes, and feet?

Though some pet parents find the licking endearing and others prefer dogs keep their tongues to themselves, experts say it’s a pretty common behavior.

So, why do dogs lick your feet? Are there health risks to dogs licking feet? How can you stop your dog from licking your feet?

We have expert insight on how to get a foothold on this quirky canine behavior.

Common Reasons Dogs Lick Feet

The most likely reasons dogs lick human feet fall mainly into two categories, and it’s important to distinguish the difference.

Is the licking an occasional situational behavior? Or is your dog licking feet compulsively?

“If a dog licks somebody’s foot while they’re resting in a chair, and the dog is right there and licks it, and this happens once in a while, that could just be because the dog finds that foot to be a toy or a game and licks it,” says Gene Pavlovsky, veterinarian and chief of staff at the Dr. John A. Coyne South Clinic at the University of Illinois.

Besides showering your feet with big wet kisses, dogs may also lick your toes, hands, or face. Licking can also be a sign of affection, or perhaps your dog just likes the smell of one of your appendages and decides they must taste it.

“That could be because of lotion on somebody’s foot, or somebody just took off their socks or their shoes, and it just smells funny,” Dr. Pavlovsky says.

Yeah, there’s kinda a big ewwwww factor when you think about stinky, salty, sweaty feet being appealing, but you know, dogs like a lot of gross things.

A dog may also lick to show fear or appeasement.

“Appeasement is basically when the dog is stressed or scared and licking you as a way to get you to sort of back down, or back away, in a sense,” Dr. Pavlovsky says. “The person might think of that as a dog kind of apologizing and feeling guilty, whereas it’s the dog’s way of saying that they’re scared.”

If a dog is persistently and repetitively licking, it may signal a problem.

“It could be a displacement behavior, which is a normal behavior, but it’s performed out of context,” Dr. Pavlovsky says. “If a dog is anxious, for example, scared or frustrated, they may engage in this displacement behavior as a way to sort of soothe themselves.”

Is It Safe for Dogs to Lick Your Feet?

All this likely leaves you wondering: Is it bad if my dog licks my feet? It could be. Alongside behavioral concerns, there are some health and safety risks for both humans and dogs.

If a person has an open sore or cut on their foot and a dog has infectious bacteria in their mouth, though rare, those germs could be transmitted through the wound and cause an infection.

“If the foot itself is healthy and has intact skin, that serves as protection against most infectious agents,” Dr. Pavlovsky says.

On the flip side, you could make your dog sick if they lick something you have on your hands or feet, like lotion, sunscreen, detergent, or other chemicals that are toxic to them.

“People put all sorts of topical products on their bodies that sometimes you don’t even know what’s in them,” Dr. Pavlovsky says.

If you do have some sort of cream, ointment, or anything potentially poisonous to dogs on your body, don’t let your dog lick that area.

Should You Let Your Dog Lick Your Feet?

If you don’t have anything harmful on your feet and no open sores or infections, it’s likely fine to allow your dog to lick your feet.

“I think a lot of pet owners think it’s kind of cute and endearing that their dogs lick them; some people like the sensation,” Dr. Pavlovsky says. “If this is not a pattern, then I think there’s very little wrong with an occasional foot lick.”

But if your dog is licking out of anxiety, you should address that behavior.

“If it happens all the time, and they’re seeking you out, and they’re licking your feet or hands, and if they’re engaging in other behaviors, like pacing and barking, then I think that should alert the pet owner to seek some help,” Dr. Pavlovsky says.

How To Stop Your Dog From Licking Your Feet

While you may need some professional advice to get off on the right foot, you can start by identifying the trigger and removing it.

“If you’re sitting on the couch, and the dog seeks you out every time you sit down, they can’t leave your feet alone, one way to fix that would be to remove that trigger, which is your feet, meaning that you would just wear socks, slippers, or not extend your feet,” Dr. Pavlovsky says. “Once that’s gone, the dog no longer sees that trigger and doesn’t display that behavior.”

You could also give your dog chews and toys to lick, rather than your feet or other body parts. If you interrupt your dog’s licking to redirect the behavior, be sure to have them do something else for a minute or two before giving them a toy, so they don’t think they’re being rewarded for licking.

However, if anxiety appears to be fueling your dog’s licking, you’ll want to address the underlying cause. Trainers frequently say a lack of exercise and boredom are culprits in many cases of dog frustration.

If you think your dog is getting enough enrichment but still shows signs of obsessive licking, it may be time to talk to your veterinarian or a certified trainer.

Frequently Asked Feet Questions

Still have questions about what it means when a dog licks your feet, but are afraid to ask? Here are answers to some of the most common feet questions:

Why Do Puppies Lick Feet?

Puppies lick feet for many of the same reasons adult dogs do: exploring (potentially stinky) smells, bonding, self-soothing, and showing affection. It’s interesting to note that behavior learned during puppyhood can carry over into adulthood. So if your puppy licks your feet and you laugh or show joy or enthusiasm, your pup may feel like they’re positively rewarded for the licking by the attention they receive, which can lead to the behavior being repetitive. (This goes for adult dogs as well, of course.)​

Why Do Dogs Lick Your Toes?

Try not to get toe-toally grossed out, but toes are usually the stinkiest part of the feet and may emit that (gagging here) eau de cheesy, rotten-egg like odor, and as we all know, some dogs have a real knack for enjoying disgusting things, so if the shoe fits…

Toes may also be more fun to lick; all the cracks and crevices might be a nice challenge, like a foot cheese puzzle for dogs. (Yes, the author is cringing at the thought as she writes…)

Is Licking Feet a Sign of a Health Issue?

Dr. Pavlovsky says excessive licking of the feet or even other inanimate objects can sometimes be a sign of oral pain, discomfort, dental problems, nausea, gastrointestinal issues, or swallowing difficulties. ​Especially if the behavior is new or the frequency or intensity suddenly increases, it’s a good idea to have your vet take a look.

Why Do Dogs Lick Feet?

So why do dogs lick your hands and feet? Though some of the reasons are a little unsettling, remember it’s fairly normal (though it can be a bit off-footing).

While some dogs and pet parents have fun enjoying getting those woofer kisses, if you think your dog may have a problem, don’t sidestep the issue.

“Veterinarians are not often consulted for these seemingly medically unrelated things, but a lot of times they are medically related,” Dr. Pavlovsky says. “I would make your veterinarian one of the first stops in terms of information seeking.”

Best Dog First Aid Kits

The best dog first aid kits can differ depending on whether they're meant to be use at home or in the field.
A good dog first aid kit should include all the necessary items as well as being organized and easy to use. Credit: Jae Thomas

As a pet owner, you hope to never need to use a first aid kit, but it’s always better to be over-prepared than under-prepared. Active dogs especially can be prone to minor injuries like paw pad tears, scrapes, broken nails, and eye irritation, and the best dog first aid kits can help you treat these ailments quickly and effectively.

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Laryngeal Paralysis in Dogs: Symptoms, Treatment, and What To Do

Laryngeal paralysis in dogs
Among the first signs you may notice with laryngeal paralysis is some coughing or gagging when your dog tries to drink water. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Laryngeal paralysis in dogs is a potentially serious condition affecting the folds of the larynx (back of your dog’s throat). The larynx, also called the voice box, is a body part made primarily of cartilage that helps to close off the trachea when your dog swallows. That keeps food or fluid from getting into your dog’s airways and possibly causing inhalation pneumonia.

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How Do Dogs Communicate With Each Other?

Early socialization can help dog develop by teaching dogs how to communicate early.
Just like with humans, not all dogs are naturally good communicators. Early socialization can help a young dog develop good communication skills. Credit: redstallion | Getty Images

Watch two dogs interacting at a dog park and you might not think much of it; a quick sniff, a wagging tail and they’re off! What you’re actually seeing, though, is a sophisticated exchange of information happening across multiple channels at the same time. Dogs communicate through body language, facial expressions, vocalizations, and scent and they do it constantly; with each other, with us, and with the environment around them.

Understanding how dogs communicate with each other doesn’t just make you a more informed care giver. It helps make you a better advocate for your dog, as you can better recognize when an interaction is going well, when it isn’t, and when it’s time to intervene.

Dog Body Language: The Primary Channel

The position of a dog’s body, the way they hold their tail, the angle of their ears, and the fluidity of their movement all carry meaning. Experienced dogs read these signals in real time, making constant adjustments in response. Let’s look at some different aspects of body language and what they mean:

  • Posture and movement—A dog who is confident and comfortable will carry themselves in a relaxed and fluid way with their weight evenly distributed and their movement loose and free. Whereas an assertive or aroused dog might shift their weight forward and stand tall, making themselves appear larger. A dog who is unsure will do the opposite and lower their body, shifting their weight backwards or even roll onto their side to signal they pose no threat.
One of the ways that dogs communicate is through body language and eye contact.
Dogs will often bow to indicate they want to play—or to remind other dogs that they’re only playing if the game starts to get too intense. Credit: Photos by R A Kearton | Getty Images
  • The play bowFront end down, rear end up is a universally understood signal in the canine behavioral repertoire. It’s an invitation to play and also serves as a reset when play becomes too intense.
  • Tail position and movementA tail held high and wagging rapidly signals arousal and confidence. But a wagging tail doesn’t always mean friendly. A tail held low or tucked is a sign of fear or uncertainty. Research has discovered that a loose, mid-height, loping tail wag is usually a good sign. The direction also matters! A tail wagged to the right is associated with positive emotional states whereas a left bias tail wag is associated with negative emotional states and dogs appear to detect this as well.
  • Ear positionEars carried forward signal alertness or interest whereas ears flattened against the head show fear, appeasement, or submission. Ears that are held slightly back or loosely to the side indicate a relaxed dog. Ear position does vary depending on morphology (floppy ears vs. pricked ears).

Dog Calming Signals

Calming signals are a specific category of dog body language first described by Norwegian dog trainer Turid Rugaas. These are behaviors used to communicate peaceful intent and to de-escalate tension. They include yawning, lip-licking, turning the head or body away, blinking slowly, sniffing the ground, and moving in an arc rather than a straight line towards another dog.

Calming signals are not random behaviors. They’re intentional communication and signal the dog is not a threat or that they are uncomfortable. When another dog responds to calming signals appropriately by softening their own body language or redirecting their approach, the interaction typically stays safe. If calming signals are ignored, tension can easily escalate.

Understanding Dog Facial Expressions

A dog looking away can indicate that a dog wishes to de-escalate.
A tight, closed mouth and ears held forward often indicate that a dog is concentrating hard or paying close attention to their environment. Credit: EyeWolf | Getty Images

Dogs have surprisingly expressive faces, especially their eyes. Soft eyes (relaxed, slightly squinting), signal comfort and relaxation. Whereas a hard stare where the whites of the eyes are visible (also called “whale eye”), is a warning. It’s one of the clearest signs a dog is feeling threatening.

The mouth also tells a story. A relaxed, slightly open mouth with a lolling tongue shows a dog is calm and comfortable. A tight, closed mouth is a sign of a dog who is concentrating or assessing the environment. The submissive grin where the lips are pulled back is frequently misread as aggression however in reality it’s appeasement.

Interpreting Dog Vocalizations

Dogs can vocalize in a few different ways and each means something different:

  • Barking is highly context dependent and can signal everything from alarm (sharp and rapid) to a desire to play (intermittent and high pitched).
  • Growling is communication, not aggression. A dog who growls is saying they are uncomfortable and need space. Punishing a growl doesn’t resolve the discomfort and can teach the dog to skip the warning and go straight to a bite instead.
  • Whining signals distress, frustration, or the desire for attention.
  • Howling is typically a response to sounds such as a siren or other dogs howling. Some dogs might howl when experiencing separation from their caregiver.

How Dogs Use Scent to Communicate

Scent is one of the key ways that dogs communicate with each other.
Dogs can learn a lot about each other though scent which is one of the reasons they often greet each other nose to rear. Credit: Alexandre Morin-Laprise | Getty Images

Dogs experience their world primary through their sense of smell. Accordingly, a significant portion of their communication with other dogs occurs through olfaction and includes:

  • Urine marking—The information contained within a dog’s urine includes their sex, reproductive status, and health. When a dog pauses to investigate every tree or bush on a walk, they’re reading their local bulletin board of information left by other dogs in the neighborhood
  • Anal glands—When dogs greet each other nose to rear, they’re exchanging detailed chemical information about who this dog is, how they’re feeling, and what they’ve recently eaten and this information gathering happens in seconds!
  • Pheromones—Pheromones are chemical signals (detected by the vomeronasal organ) that operate below the level of conscious awareness and influence social behavior in ways we are still learning about.

When Dog Communication Breaks Down

Not all dogs are proficient communicators, especially those who missed critical socialization windows during puppyhood. These dogs often struggle to read and respond to signals accurately. A dog who was isolated during this time may not recognize a play bow as an invitation or know how to respond to appeasement signals from another dog.

Physical alterations such as docked ears and tails can also affect communication, making it harder for other dogs to read them.

Communication can also break down when early signs are ignored and a dog is pushed past their limit. A dog who has yawned, looked away, licked their lips, and tried to move away has run out of options and may need to get louder and harder to miss: a growl, a snap, or a bite. In most cases the warning signs were there. They were just not seen or ignored.

What Owners Can Do: Helping Your Dog Communicate Better

The most important thing an owner can do is to learn to read and respond to your dog’s signals. If they’re yawning repeatedly during a greeting, turning away, or trying to move away, they are communicating clearly. Holding them in place or encouraging the other dog to keep approaching teaches your dog that their communication doesn’t work, which will likely cause fear, frustration, and anxiety.

Give dogs time and space to communicate on their own terms and be ready to intervene if needed. Short positive interactions are much more beneficial than prolonged interactions that end badly.

If your dog consistently struggles to communicate with other dogs, it’s worth consulting a qualified behavioral professional. These patterns may not resolve on their own and early intervention can make a big difference.

Supporting your dog’s social development means prioritizing quality over quantity. A handful of positive interactions with well-matched dogs does more for a dog’s social confidence than dozens of chaotic ones at a busy dog park.

How Dogs Communicate

Dogs are sophisticated communicators. The more fluent you become at reading your dog’s body language the better equipped you are to support them in their interactions with other dogs and in their relationship with you.


References

Mariti, C., Falaschi, C., Zilocchi, M., Carlone, B., & Gazzano, A. (2014). Analysis of calming signals in domestic dogs: Are they signals and are they calming?: 3. Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research9(6), e1-e2.

Siniscalchi, M., Lusito, R., Vallortigara, G., & Quaranta, A. (2013). Seeing left-or right-asymmetric tail wagging produces different emotional responses in dogs. Current Biology23(22), 2279-2282.

Quaranta, A., d’Ingeo, S., Minunno, M., Straziota, V., Nolè, M., Ventriglia, G., … & Siniscalchi, M. (2025). Decoding dog communication through the physiology and behavior of urine marking. Scientific Reports.

Best Dog Toys for Heavy Chewers

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Dog toys for heavy chewers need to be built strong, but not so strong they pose a health risk.
.When it comes right down to it, rubber toys—like the Kong shown here—are the best option for dogs who are seriously heavy chewers. Credit: eldadcarin | Getty Images

Puppies are notorious chewers, especially between 3 and 7 months of age, and most pet supply stores sell a variety of toys that keep teething puppies busy and away from whatever you don’t want them to chew.  Examples include Kong Puppy Chew rubber bones, binkies, tires, and classic Kong-shaped toys in pink or blue, plus Bininl Puppy Toys for Teething made of natural rubber, which come in six different shapes designed for chewing.

What To Look for When Picking the Best Dog Toys for Heavy Chewers

WDJ’s 2024 review of dog toys for serious chewers listed qualities to keep in mind while searching for toys that will survive your dog’s attention. In addition to looking for toys made of safe-for-pups materials, search for toys that are an appropriate size and shape for your dog and also have:

  • No small parts (choking hazards)
  • Some give or flexibility (aren’t brittle)
  • Some weight or heaviness (aren’t flimsy)
  • Minimal seams or no seams

Small parts to avoid include plastic eyes, noses, horns, or other projections. If a toy isn’t securely stitched together, your pup may enjoy removing stuffing and squeakers.

To choose the best size for your pup:

  • Focus on anatomy and look for toys that extend beyond both sides of your dog’s mouth and are slightly wider than his nose. Whenever you have a choice between two sizes that are possible matches for your dog, choose the larger.
  • Consider your dog’s age, as puppies need soft, flexible toys for teething, while adults enjoy dense rubber for jaw exercise, and most seniors prefer softer materials like plush toys or silicone.
  • Match a toy’s durability to your dog’s chewing strength. For aggressive chewers, look for toys labeled “heavy duty,” “power chewers,” “extra strong,” or something similar.
  • Press the toy with your fingernail to see if it leaves a mark, which is associated with appropriate hardness. Toys that are too hard to leave a mark can damage teeth, and toys that are too soft can break into small pieces. Avoiding hard toys is important for puppies, especially before their adult teeth grow into place.
Safety and Chew Toys

No matter which new toys you offer your chew-happy dog, there are some important things to keep in mind when it comes to dog chews:

  • Check the toy’s label or product website for instructions.
  • Supervise your dog, especially with puppies or aggressive chewers.
  • Separate chewing dogs if there is any chance of resource guarding or arguments.
  • Don’t leave your dog in a crate with a new toy that is very hard, might splinter, or might break into pieces that could cause choking or an intestinal obstruction.
  • Replace a toy when it’s chewed down enough for your dog to swallow, if you see deep cracks or sharp edges, or if the toy has lost its shape and no longer matches the original design.
  • Pay close attention to the toy’s size relative to your dog’s mouth and jaw. The toy should be larger than your dog’s back molars when she bites down. Avoid any toy that could fit behind the canine teeth because that is a choking risk.
  • Choose large, oversized, tough chew toys for aggressive chewers.

Replace rope or fabric toys that have long, loose strings that could be swallowed

Toughest Dog Toys for Heavy Chewers

Product and MakerBest for Price RangeNotes
Kong ExtremePower Chewers$9 – $27Natural rubber, market leader, 60-day satisfaction replacement/refund guarantee
GoughnutsAggressive Chewers$25 – $40Engineered rubber, red safety indicator, lifetime replacement/refund guarantee
Monster K9Destructive Chewers$20 – $25Proprietary rubber, recommended by many military/K9 handlers, lifetime replacement/refund guarantee
WestPaw HurleyFetch/Chew Combo$13 – $21Zogoflex rubber/plastic, very low return rate, lifetime replacement/refund guarantee
Chew King SupremeModerate/Strong Chewers$5 – $17Natural rubber, safety air vent, no replacement/refund guarantee

Best Rubber Dog Toys for Strong Chewers

No toy is impossible for dogs to destroy, but, as the table above suggests, rubber toys are most often recommended for heavy chewers.

Kong Company’s “Extreme” toys are made of black heavy-duty rubber known for its durability. The collection includes goodie ribbons, bones, donuts, rings, tires, and balls in different sizes.

Goughnuts Chew Toys, made of carbon rubber that can float, roll, and bounce, include rings, sticks, balls, tug toys, and “work to eat” treat dispenser toys. These toys are built around a red core that is a built-in safety indicator. When the red rubber shows through, it’s time to replace the toy.

Monster K9 Dog Toys use industrial-strength natural rubber and are a favorite among police and military K9 handlers. These chew sticks, rings, aero discs, and balls are guaranteed to be the longest-lasting toy your dog has ever had.

West Paw’s puppy toys and chew toys like the Hurley are made of Zogoflex, a nontoxic rubber-like material made of recycled ocean-bound plastic, which is free from BPA, phthalates, latex, and FDA-compliant. Designed to bounce, stretch, tug, and withstand heavy chewing, Zogoflex toys also float.

Chew King’s Supreme Balls for heavy chewers are made of durable rubber with a rugged texture for gripping and fetching. A built-in safety air vent allows air flow if the ball is fully in a dog’s mouth.

Are Nylon Chew Toys Safe for Heavy Chewers?

Since 1955, Nylabone has manufactured nylon chews for dogs of all ages. Its 57 Power-Chew toys come in different shapes, sizes, and flavors, all made of nontoxic nylon and designed to withstand hours of heavy chewing.

At the same time, Nylabone toys are controversial because some dogs have died or been injured after swallowing a chunk or piece or whole Nylabone. Some veterinarians have blamed nylon chews for tooth fractures, other dental damage, and gastrointestinal problems associated with nylon particles in the digestive tract.

According to the Nylabone website, it’s important to follow these guidelines when offering nylon toys to super-chewers:

  • Select the proper size and type of chew for your dog’s weight and age.
  • Always supervise the use of chews and toys.
  • The product is not intended to be eaten or ingested. During normal chewing, small bristle-like projections will be raised, which help clean teeth. If you think your dog swallowed a large piece, take the product away and contact your veterinarian.
  • Inspect the toy before giving it to your dog to make sure it’s whole and intact. Check frequently and replace the toy if it’s damaged, the ends are worn down, or it becomes too small to chew safely.
  • To clean, hand-wash with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly.

Other manufacturers have helped make nylon chews among the world’s most popular dog toys.

Benebone started with a curved bacon-flavored wishbone-shaped toy and now offers nylon chews in different shapes, multiple sizes, and natural flavors, including tripe, bacon, salmon, and maplewood.

Ethical Pet’s Bambones combine nylon and bamboo in different shapes, sizes, and flavors for chewing dogs.

Kseroo makes a variety of heavy-duty nylon chew toys in beef, bacon, and peanut butter, all designed for aggressive chewers.

Nylon-free Bones for Dogs Who Like to Chew

Because real bones can splinter, break with sharp edges, or in other ways cause damage or injury, some companies make “safe” nylon-free bones out of cellulose and vegetable oil. Examples include Woof’s HonestChew and BetterBone’s Dog Chews.

Are There Any Stuffed—or Unstuffed—Soft Toys for Heavy Chewers?

When it comes to soft toys with or without squeakers—and with or without stuffing—many owners of heavy chewers just laugh and walk past the display. “My dog would annihilate that in two minutes,” they say. They might be right, but a few companies have improved their toys’ life expectancy with new materials, designs, and construction techniques. That’s good news for heavy chewers who like to sink their teeth into toys.

Tall Tails stuffless toys use high-pile plush fabric with an inner mesh layer that prevents toys from losing their shape during vigorous play by adding structural support. Built around an inner rope and double-stitched, stuffless toys are easy to clean and extra sturdy. Tall Tails overstuffed toys use recycled plastic bottle stuffing protected in a fabric pouch stitched into the seam to maintain shape and prevent spillage. Squeakers are protected in fabric pouches and stitched into seams. These interactive, attractive animal toys are built for fetch, tug, and chase games rather than prolonged chewing.

Tuffy Dog Toys, which their manufacturer calls “the world’s toughest soft toys,” aren’t squishy or fluffy. They’re made of very sturdy fabrics stitched in multiple layers and designed for active use with aggressive chewers. Tuffy toys come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Several are water-resistant and float. All are designed for interactive activities and are not sold as chew toys.

Outward Hound makes sturdy, soft, plush toys like the Durablez Gecko with heavy duty binding, a strong interior layer, and triple stitched seams to withstand active play. They are not sold as chew toys but last longer than most plush dog toys.

Firehose Toys for Strong Chewers

Firehose toys are not indestructible, but they last longer than most fetch and tug toys, and they satisfy a dog’s urge to bite deeply into a yielding object.

According to Tug and Go Dog Toys, municipal Boston firefighter Shannon Blair wanted to find a toy that his energetic Boxer couldn’t destroy. He realized that repurposed firehoses might make good dog toys, and the result was Tug and Go, which makes ring toys, tuggable hoops, and professional tugs for bite-work training.

Outward Hound offers 11 interactive and fetch toys made of firehose.

Hyper Pet makes flying discs and other firehose toys.

Toys for Dogs Who Like Chewing on Wood

Why Does My Dog Chew on Wood?” describes how wood, which offers a natural odor and satisfying texture that a dog can chew and pull apart, is nature’s favorite toy. Puppies like to chew on wood to help soothe their sore gums and adults like to chew to relieve boredom, stress, or anxiety. While not a food or edible treat, there are some woods sold as dog chew toys. These are considered safe if ingested because they don’t splinter but gradually break down as their fibers separate. Made-for-dogs wood chews that are shaped for interesting chewing and designed for safe use include:

Helping a Rescue Dog Adjust to a New Home

Helping a rescue dog adjust to a new home requires considering their needs and providing safe spaces.
Moving to a new home can be a big adjustment for a dog. Keeping the first several days quiet and making sure the dog has a safe space to retreat to if needed can help them settle in faster. Credit: aire images| Getty Images

Bringing home a rescue dog is an exciting and rewarding experience but it can be a very stressful time for the dog. New sounds, sights, people, and routine can be a huge adjustment. The dog doesn’t understand that this is their new home, that they are safe, and that uncertainty is over. All they have to go on is what they observe and experience and those early days in a new home can be very overwhelming.

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