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A Canine Allergy Glossary

By
Nancy Kerns
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Allergen: A substance that causes an allergic reaction. Anything can be an allergen to a hypersensitive individual, even water. The term has meaning only in relation to an individual who is hypersensitive to that substance.

Allergen-specific immunotherapy: Also known as “allergy shots.” An injection that is custom-made for each patient based on results of intradermal skin tests. The injections contain saline solution and tiny amounts of (commercially produced) extracts from the substances to which the patient is hypersensitive. The injections are given once or twice weekly for four to six months (or longer); the amount of the allergens that the injections contain is slowly increased until a “maintenance dose” is achieved. This therapy is extremely effective, though time-consuming and (over time) expensive.

Allergic contact dermatitis: A hypersensitivity reaction to skin contact with an environmental substance.

Alopecia: Hair loss.

Antibody: Also known as immunoglobulin. A complex Y-shaped protein used by the immune system to identify and neutralize foreign substances. Antibodies are produced by white blood cells.

Antigen: A molecule that induces the formation of antibodies.

Atopy: Also known as “canine atopic dermatitis.” A hereditary and chronic allergic skin disease. Dogs may be allergic to inhaled substances or substances their skin has comes in contact with. Redness and hair loss from scratching is often worst around the eyes, muzzle, ears, and on the feet.

Food hypersensitivity: Also known as “food allergy.” An uncommon, nonseasonal hypersensitivity caused by a dietary substance; an abnormal immunologic response to an ingested substance. Food hypersensitivity is not usually associated with a change in diet. Most dogs who develop the condition have eaten the same food for more than two years. A dog can develop a food allergy to any food, but the most commonly incriminated foods in canine food hypersensitivity include beef, dairy products, lamb, poultry products, wheat, soy, corn, rice, and eggs. (Note that these are also some of the most common ingredients in commercial pet food.)

Intradermal (skin) tests: A test in which tiny amounts of various environmental allergens (such as local tree, grass, and flower pollens) are injected under the dog’s skin, and the skin is observed for a reaction. Redness and swelling indicates a substance to which the dog is allergic. Needed in order to customize a dog’s immunotherapeutic injections (“allergy shots”).

In vitro diagnostic tests: Also known as blood or serologic tests for antigen-induced antibodies, ELISA, or RAST tests. Not very reliable indicators of allergy because of the large numbers of false positive and false negative results.

Pruritus: Itchiness; an unpleasant sensation that causes the desire to scratch.

Pyoderma: A bacterial infection of the skin. Generally treated with antibiotics, but the underlying cause of the infection needs to be addressed, too, so the condition doesn’t recur. The type of antibiotic prescribed will depend on whether the pyoderma originates from deep within the skin or closer to the surface (superficial).

Pyogenic: Bacterial infection that produces pus (dead white blood cells).

Other Conditions That Can Cause Your Dog’s Itching

By
Nancy Kerns
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Allergies are not the only reason that dogs itch. In fact, to properly diagnose hypersensitivity, one of the first things a veterinarian needs to do is to rule out other potential causes of itching. “Allergies are a diagnosis of exclusion,” says Donna Spector, DVM, DACVIM, an internal medicine specialist with a consulting practice in Deerfield, Illinois. A dog’s medical history can sometimes help his vet identify the reason for the dog’s itching, but in other cases, the history may be lacking (such as with a shelter dog).

In other cases, a good history may exist, but the picture it presents is muddled. Complicating the diagnostic task is the fact that some causes of itching may actually be a secondary effect of the dog’s allergy. For example, a dog may be itchy because he has a yeast infection (an overgrowth of an organism commonly found on even healthy dogs) – or he may have developed a yeast infection as a result of licking and chewing (due to an allergy), which created the conditions in which the yeast organism thrives. It may take some time and tests for your vet to sort it all out. Here are some of the other conditions that can cause dogs to itch.

– Bacterial infection (pyoderma)

– Contact dermatitis from exposure to a caustic agent

– Drug reaction

– Fungal infection (including yeast)

– Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease – causes a secondary infection)

– Hypothyroidism (causes a secondary infection)

– Immune-mediated disorders – Includes conditions such as systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE)

– Liver, pancreatic, or renal disease

– Parasitic infection – Includes internal parasites, as well as external parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mites. Three main types of mites are most problematic: Cheyletiella (“walking dandruff”); Demodex canis (which causes demodicosis, also known as red mange or demodectic mange); and Sarcoptes scabiei canis (which causes scabies, also known as sarcoptic mange)

When It Comes to Allergy Tests, Some Dogs Flunk

By
Nancy Kerns
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Dog allergy tests are not as conclusive as they are sometimes presented as.

There are a few different types of tests available that purport to identify the allergens to which a dog is hypersensitive; some of them are helpful, and some are a waste of time and money. Since all of them are commonly referred to as “allergy tests,” few people know which ones are credible, and which ones are not. The following is a brief description of the types of tests available for allergy diagnosis.

– Blood (serologic) tests for antigen-induced antibodies – Two different methods (RAST and ELISA) are used for the most common commercial test products used by veterinarians, and the tests may be referred to by those names or by the name of the company whose test kit uses the methodology (such as Heska, Greer, or VARL). These tests are designed to detect antibodies that a dog has produced in response to specific environmental antigens. By identifying the antibodies, the tests were supposed to be able to deliver clues about the environmental substances that the dog’s immune system is treating as an “invader.

Historically, the tests have been unreliable, with lots of false positive and false negative results, though the technology has improved over the years.

If the test results indicate “55 different things your dog is supposedly allergic to,” says Dr. Donna Spector, owner of SpectorDVM Consulting, in Deerfield, Illinois, it’s not particularly helpful, “and not particularly believable, when the results indicate your dog is allergic to something that he doesn’t even have significant exposure to.” However, she adds, if there is a really strong positive result, “not just one or two points above what they say is normal, but really strong results, you have something you can ask the owner about. ‘Does your pet have exposure to oak trees?’ If the owner says, ‘Oh yeah, they’re all over our property, we’re loaded with oak trees!’ then you’ve got something you can work with.” Or rather, something you can target with immunotherapy (allergy shots).

Dr. Spector has one suggestion for those considering paying for one of these tests: “It’s best to test right after the dog has gone through his worst allergy season, because his antibody levels will be the highest at that time, and you can get the best picture of what really bothers him the most. Sometimes a vet will run a blood test randomly, say, in the middle of winter, or ‘in preparation for the upcoming spring,’ and it is not as helpful.”

– Skin (intradermal) tests for environmental allergens –
In an intradermal test, tiny amounts of a number of suspected or likely local allergens are injected just under the dog’s skin. The location is shaved (the better to observe the reaction of the skin and underlying tissue) and marked (with a pen), so the response to each allergen can be recorded. Swelling and/or redness indicates the dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot.

Identification of the substances to which a dog is allergic is helpful for two reasons. First, if the allergens that are problematic for a dog are known, the dog’s owner can try to prevent (as much as possible) the dog’s exposure to them. Second, testing identifies the allergens to be chosen for inclusion in customized allergy shots (also known as “immunotherapeutic injections”).

Most veterinary dermatologists feel these tests are much more reliable than blood tests for antibodies. It should be noted that the testing is more time-consuming and expensive, not to mention stressful for the dog, who must be observed very closely, several times, by a stranger!

– Tests for food allergies – Both blood and skin tests for food allergies exist, but it’s difficult to find anyone (besides the companies that produce the tests) who feels the results are worth the paper they are printed on. It would be exciting and useful if it worked, but so far, the tests are a work in progress, with only an estimated 30 percent accuracy rate. Why would you bother – especially when you can conduct a food elimination trial that will deliver much more accurate information about your dog’s food allergies.

Food Elimination Trial: A Valuable Tool (When Done Correctly)

By
Nancy Kerns
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A valid food elimination trial for the purpose of confirming food hypersensitivity consists of three phases: elimination, challenge, and provocation.

In the first (elimination) phase, the dog is fed a diet consisting of a single protein source and a single carbohydrate source. Both of these ingredients should be completely “novel” to the dog – foods he’s never eaten before. (Thirty years ago, lamb and rice was the go-to food elimination diet, because those ingredients were not yet widely available in commercial pet foods. Because the diet was novel, few dogs had developed allergies to those ingredients, and “lamb and rice” gained an unearned reputation as a “hypoallergenic” diet. Many dog food companies rushed lamb- and rice-based diets to market, and the early results were good, since the formulation was novel. However, the ingredients are common in dog food formulations today; neither is likely to be completely novel to today’s hypersensitive dog.)

Today’s pet owners are fortunate in having novel proteins such as kangaroo, beaver, pheasant, and rabbit readily available in frozen and canned form. Novel grains such as quinoa, barley, or amaranth can be easily found in health food or gourmet food stores.

During this phase, the dog must be prevented from eating anything else: no leftovers, bones, chews, treats, or even supplements. If his itching has not reduced by at least 50 percent after a period of 8 to 12 weeks with no other foods crossing his lips, you can tentatively conclude that either A) his allergies are not related to his diet; or B) that you have, by some bad luck, used a food to which he is also allergic. You can try another trial, using another novel protein and another novel grain. If his itching does not reduce at that time, you can very safely conclude that his hypersensitivity is not related to his diet, but to some other factors.

If, however, his itching reduces drastically, go on to the second phase: challenge. Put your dog back on his former diet. If he is truly hypersensitive to ingredients in his former diet, his itching and other allergic signs should return within 4 hours to 7 days. Diagnosis: confirmed.

In the third (provocation) phase, the dog is again fed the novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet until his allergy signs have subsided. Then, a single ingredient is added to the diet for a week while the dog is closely observed. The return of pruritus in the week following the addition of any ingredient implicates that ingredient as a factor in the dog’s food hypersensitivity.

This is not a fun project; it takes commitment, extraordinary observation, and total control of your dog’s environment for weeks on end. However, identification of the ingredients to which your dog is allergic will enable you to simply prevent him from eating those ingredients, and stave off both the uncomfortable symptoms of allergy and the potentially hazardous treatments sometimes required to make him more comfortable.

Corticosteroids: Lifesaver or Killer?

By
Nancy Kerns
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There are almost as many opinions among veterinarians concerning the use of corticosteroids as there are veterinarians. Some feel that these drugs – prednisone, prednisolone, methylprednisolone, and dexamethasone foremost among them – are invaluable to every dog who itches; some feel that corticosteroids ought to be used only as a last resort, and only for short periods and in small amounts. Still others regard them as verboten. Why are these drugs so controversial?

Corticosteroids, also known as glucocorticoids, are used mainly for their anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive effects. They have been modeled on the substances manufactured by the adrenal cortex, and can be administered in an injectable, oral, or topical form. These are powerful drugs that exert amazing effects on pruritic dogs – sometimes overwhelmingly positive, and sometimes negative. They can halt inflammation and itchiness within just a day or two.

However, due to their immunosuppressive action (which is responsible for quieting the hypersensitive response of the immune system), they can also leave a dog vulnerable to infections and can cause a host of other metabolic imbalances. “This is especially problematic in allergic patients, as their immune systems tend to already be weak,” says Dr. Lisa Pesch, a holistic veterinarian and owner of Animal Arts Healing Center in Sebastopol, California. “It’s important not to confuse a hypersensitive immune system with a strong one.”

Corticosteroids also affect water and electrolyte balance (making many dogs excessively thirsty, and thus, excessively in need of “going outside”); they can cause extracellular fluid retention (some dogs will take on a puffy appearance); and they often increase the dog’s appetite (and without owner awareness of the potential for problems, resultant gain of unhealthy pounds).

Most seriously, long-term use of these drugs can lead to increased incidence of infections due to immune suppression, liver disease, hair loss, skin problems, diabetes mellitus, and adrenal suppression. Every other day usage can help to minimize these effects.

Some veterinarians take a laissez faire stance on steroids, and prescribe them freely in cases of severe allergy. Others prescribe the drugs minimally.

Still others base their decision on their appraisal of the owner; faced with owners who fail to understand or embrace an intensive, multi-pronged treatment and management plan for their itchy dog, they will prescribe the drugs in order to stop the dog’s itching and increase his quality of life, at least in the short term. But given a motivated, educated owner who is willing to go to any lengths to help their dog get better, these vets will recommend a minimal reliance  on steroids, and work with the owners to find alternatives.

In her web-based consulting practice, veterinary internal medicine specialist Dr. Donna Spector offers second opinions, analysis, and oversight to pet owners and their veterinarians. When she’s consulted on a case of a dog with allergies, she bases her assessment on the ‘three strikes and you’re out’ rule. “If you’ve had your dog in the vet’s office three or four times, and you’ve come home with the same packet of antibiotics and steroids each time, and no other suggestions have been made regarding better environmental management or immunotherapy – to me, there is more we can do.”

It makes sense to regard these drugs as “heavy artillery,” even if your own veterinarian is casual about prescribing them on an initial visit. Ideally, veterinarians would advise using them as a last resort and just for a short time (two weeks or so), to help halt the itch/scratch cycle plaguing a severely pruritic dog. This, in turn, can give his skin time to heal, and other therapies time to begin working.

Spring Allergy Season Can Spell Trouble for Our Dogs, Too

By
Nancy Kerns
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I was beginning to think that it was the mere fact that I researched and wrote a long article about canine allergies for the April issue of Whole Dog Journal that made my dog Otto start itching. But the fact is, a quick glance at my calendar (where I note anything unusual about Otto’s health or behavior) reveals that I first noticed Otto licking and scratching himself on March 7 – and weather.com confirms that the pollen count in my area jumped from “low” to “moderate” around March 4.

The most common symptom of any allergy in dogs is itching. An allergy to flea bites is the most common type of allergy in dogs, but an allergy to something in the dog’s environment, such as pollen, dust, or exposure to dust mites (actually, the feces of dust mites), is the second-most common allergy. Food allergies are a distant third.

Look for a ton of information about canine allergies in the April issue. Keep an eye peeled for an increase in your dog’s licking, chewing, and scratching as the pollen counts rise in your part of the country. And, if you’ve observed signs of allergy, let the rest of us know where you and your dogs are located – and what you’re doing to try to keep your itchy dog comfortable.

(Socializing Your Puppy or Dog #1) Socializing Your Puppy or Dog: Making a Lifelong Difference

By
Nancy Kerns
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You’d better get out there and get started!  There’s no such thing as overkill when it comes to properly done socialization. You can’t do too much. Pups who are super-socialized tend to assume that new things they meet later in life are safe and good until proven otherwise.

Dogs who are very well-socialized as pups are least likely to develop aggressive behaviors in their lifetimes. Pups who aren’t well-socialized tend to be suspicious and fearful of new things they meet throughout their lives, and are most likely to eventually bite someone.

If your pup comes to you from a socially impoverished environment, you’ll already see the signs of neophobia. You have no time to lose, and you may never be able to make up all the ground he’s lost, but you can make him better than he’d be otherwise.

  • Trainers talk about giving pups “100 new (positive) exposures in the first 100 days.” If your pup is already showing signs of timidity or fear, triple that to 300 exposures in 100 days. And get busy!

Please, Don’t Bring Home the Wrong Dog!

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

So, dog lovers, has this happened to you? You have a friend or relative who has been dogless for some time, by choice or situation or because they’ve been grieving the loss of their last dog. For some reason — the planets have realigned, they finally own their own home, they just got reduced to a part-time job, whatever – they have decided that they are now ready to get a dog, and they want one, and they know just what they want. They want a male Poodle or Bichon-mix because they have allergies, and it has to be friendly. Or they want a little dog, but good with kids and not a Chihuahua not matter what because they know several and don’t like them.

Despite the fact that you’ve promised to find them the perfect dog, one that meets their every wish in a dog, if they would only give you a bit of time, the next thing you hear is:

“Hey, we got our dog! We just couldn’t wait, and we went to the shelter to look, and we got this dog, she’s great, she’s so sweet, she’s a Cocker Spaniel-mix!” 

Or

“We adopted a dog! It turns out, he IS a Chihuahua-mix, but he’s so CUTE! And he’s been so great with the kids.”

And then the very NEXT development is that the Cocker is making both of them ill with allergies and she also bit the mailman when he tried to pet her. And the Chihuahua is adorable with the kids but how do they stop him from barking all day he’s driving them crazy!

How do you convince people to be patient and selective and wait for a dog who meets their criteria, instead of rushing in and adopting the first cute face in the shelter they see? A face that brings a body or temperament or coat that is all wrong for them, that is going to make that dog’s very existence in their home a challenge for all of them? I’m frustrated today, because I have two friends looking for a dog RIGHT NOW and they keep sending me photos from Petfinder of dogs that meet NONE of their stated requirements in a dog, and I foresee two more disasters in the works. And it might take a few weeks or even months, but I know in the very busy shelter where I volunteer, a dog who meets their every wish will be coming through those kennels, if they would just be PATIENT! And I don’t think they will!

Am I being hysterical? Should I just relax and let them discover the joys of the unexpected? Or is this a legitimate reason to gripe?

A Pet Owner’s Worst Nightmare: Fire

By
Nancy Kerns
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I’m dog-sitting Chaco, the last little foster dog I found a home for. I got a call from her new owner the other morning. Chris asked how I was, and then asked if I could possibly dog-sit Chaco for a few days or perhaps longer. “Of course!” I replied, “What’s up?” Her voice broke as she answered, “My house burned down yesterday!”

“Oh my goodness! Where are you? Are you alright?” I asked. She said she was okay, and explained that she had actually been out for a walk with her boyfriend and both of her dogs when she got a call from her mother. Her mom said, “Honey?  I got a call from your neighbor; she said your house is on fire and the fire department is there!”

I told Chris I’d be right over, and jumped into the car. I was at her house in five minutes. At first glance, the house looked alright . . . until I saw the holes chopped into the roof by the fire department. Approaching the house, I saw piles of charred and sodden insulation, and smelled the acrid odor of a house fire. I pushed open the door, and oh my. The entire interior of the house was dripping wet, smelled smoky, and was covered with soot and burned insulation. Most of the frame of the house was intact, except for those holes in the roof and one spot on one wall. But it is completely uninhabitable due to the water and smoke damage.

Amazingly, both of the cats were okay; they had a pet door and evidently used it to escape. That’s kind of a miracle; often, cats try to hide from the heat and smoke of a fire by going under a bed or into a closet. The firefighters captured one kitty in the yard; the other one came out of hiding from goodness knows where in the middle of the night, after all the strangers were gone and my friends were still picking through the mess for clothes and photos and anything salvageable.

My friends will be okay; they have family and friends and places to stay and to help with the pets — and they have insurance! My dog Otto and Chaco were thrilled to see each other again, and immediately started chasing each other around my yard. Chris is grateful that no one was hurt – and that the fire didn’t break out at night when they were all sleeping (the fire fighters said it looked like it originated with some wiring in the attic). She had crates for each of her animals, and they (the dogs anyway) are habituated to and comfortable in the crates in the car. Also, all of her animals were wearing ID. That’s the start of a great emergency plan.

I just can’t stop thinking about what would happen if a fire broke out at my house and my dog and cat were trapped inside. I’m not sure I can think of anything scarier. All the animals, especially little Chaco, a foster dog once again for a few days, get extra hugs tonight.

(The Finer Points to Home- Prepared Dog Food Diets #2) Facts on Fish

By
Nancy Kerns
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Many people worry about the amount of salt in canned fish. It is true that canned fish is salty, but dogs require a certain amount of salt, and a homemade diet is naturally low in salt, so the amount in canned fish that is fed once or twice a week should not be a concern. If your dog suffers from heart disease or needs a low-sodium diet for some other reason, you can rinse the fish to remove most of the salt.

Rescue Hoarding

By
Nancy Kerns
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About a year ago, I became acutely aware of the fact that there are increasing numbers of animal “rescue” organizations that are doing anything but “rescuing” animals. I’m not talking about real rescue operations, where animals are well cared-for, the facility does not take on more animals than it can support in a healthy fashion, and the organization has a well-established and successful method of finding permanent homes for its charges. I’m talking about the places that end up in the newspaper, the ones that have spun out of control with too many animals, not enough money or caregivers, where the animals are found to be reproducing, sick, or dead. 

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Some of these fake rescues blatantly use homeless or unwanted animals to beg for money – supposedly used to support the animals, but mostly used to support the “rescue” operators. Others may have started as an honest attempt to help animals, but somehow developed into a nightmare/fantasy of an animal hoarder.

I’d read news articles about this phenomenon, but I never saw the grim results of such an operation until 100-plus dogs from one were brought into my local shelter, the one where I volunteer in the kennels and on the Board of Directors. With a single exception (an emaciated St. Bernard), all the dogs seized from a local “rescue” were all small dogs. (This didn’t make sense to me until our Executive Director explained that small dogs are the easiest to place and cost the least to feed – handy if you’re profiting on the “adoption fee” charged for the dogs.)

Almost all of the dogs were thin; some were skin and bones. They were starving – which caused immediate logistical problems in caring for them. Because there were far more dogs than my shelter had individual cages or runs, we had to kennel them in groups. And it became immediately apparent that the dogs were accustomed to fighting for their food. To prevent fights from breaking out over the food, we had to leave completely full bowls of food in the kennels at all times for a few weeks – and leave more bowls than there were dogs in each kennel. Sometimes, in those first few days, the dogs would spontaneously start fighting over any bowl that was placed on the floor of the run, even if there were half a dozen other full bowls of food already present.

Something else I never realized: Full bowls of food all day X 100 dogs = cleaning kennels ALL day for weeks on end.

We also had to keep these little dogs completely segregated from the rest of the dogs in the shelter, which turned out to save the lives of all the dogs in the shelter, after some of the new dogs proved to have distemper. Most shelters have a standard protocol in place calling for euthanasia of all the homeless animals in the facility if distemper breaks out. Through assiduous infection control, we were able to contain the infection. Only the seized puppies that were less than six months old had to be euthanized.  

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Puppies? In a “rescue” operation? Yes. There were several litters, and several more pregnant dogs seized from the “rescue.” Reproduction is an abomination in an environment with more dogs than one can feed.

The dogs had a wide array of health problems, such as mange and other skin ailments; cuts and bite wounds (no doubt from their desperate fights for food); infected ears and eyes and paws. One sweet old Cocker Spaniel had end-stage cancer. Another mixed-breed senior couldn’t stand up, her arthritis was so bad.  

 I’m writing about this for two reasons: One is that the case I’ve described above is about to go to trial. I plan on attending; several of the animal control officers and shelter staffers have been subpoenaed.

The other is because I just received a link to an article about an even bigger case, involving almost 350 dogs confiscated from “One More Chance Rescue and Adoption” in Piqua, Ohio. Seventy six dead dogs were also found on the property.

I receive articles like this at least a couple times a month. Cases like these can strain legitimate animal control agencies or shelters to the breaking point.

Whatever you do, please don’t offer any financial support to “rescues” or “sanctuaries” that you haven’t seen personally, or that are not open to the general public for frequent inspection. You may be inadvertently supporting a death camp for dogs and cats instead.

(Proper Greetings #3) Stop Your Dog from Jumping on People

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. Here’s what you can do to prevent your dog from jumping on people:

Educate. Tell friends, family and even temporary acquaintances what you want them to do if your dog starts to jump up. Insist they not reinforce jumping up behavior – even those friends who claim they don’t mind! Educational options include telling them to:

  • Greet your dog before he jumps, perhaps even kneeling to greet a small dog.
  • Turn and step away from your dog until he sits, or at least has four feet on the floor, then turn back to greet the dog.
  • Ask your dog to sit and reinforce by petting him if/when he does.
  • Back away from your dog (if you have your dog on leash) and wait for him to sit before greeting or petting him. If he jumps up while you are petting him, simply stop the petting and take a step backward. Resume petting only if he sits.
  • Toss a toy conveniently provided by you to redirect the dog’s behavior before the jump happens.
  • Walk away from your dog through a gate or door and close it behind them to keep the dog on the other side.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Proper Greeting: Stop Your Dog from Barking and Jumping when the Doorbell Rings.

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