Bed bugs will bite your dog, just as they will bite you, and your dog can carry them home on himself and his bedding, just like your luggage.
When it comes to bed bugs, humans are the preferred food source, but bed bugs are equal opportunity insects. While bed bugs don’t live on your dog like fleas, preferring to feed and leave, they may inadvertently catch a ride on your dog and/or his bedding. Sadly, flea and tick products are not effective against bed bugs.
Recognize Bed Bug Bites on a Dog
Bed bugs make small, red bites that can be very itchy. At this time, their bites are not associated with any diseases, but if your dog is biting and chewing at the bites, he can develop secondary bacterial or fungal infections.
Look for the bugs themselves as well as reddish brown stains under sheets, at mattress corners, and on box springs. One of the best methods for identifying bed bugs is a trained bed bug dog, but most families don’t travel with one.
Bed bugs are flat, brown bugs, about the size of a grain of rice. These bugs become active at night when you and your dog are sleeping. Pet beds, dog crates, and pet blankets can all provide homes for bed bugs. During the day they hide in any cracks related to a bed (frames, headboards, mattress seams). Eggs are also laid in those locations. Bed bugs have five nymph stages, all of whom are blood thirsty.
Startling as it is, adult bed bugs can go months without feeding, so they can live is a closed off room until the unwitting person or pet enters.
Avoiding Bed Bug Infestations
Many people have learned, often the hard way, to check bedbugreports.com when booking a hotel room. Not only will checking save you some itchy bites, but it will also save your dog from bed bug bites.
You can inadvertently bring bed bugs home if you stay in a contaminated place. The bugs can hide in your clothes, your suitcase, your purse, anything you carry out of an infected room and into your home. Bed bugs can, and will, also walk from one room to another such as in a hotel or an apartment building.
Eliminating Bed Bugs
Getting rid of bed bugs is war. Vacuuming, being sure to get into all cracks and crevices, and then dumping the vacuum bag outside in a sealed bag can help. Doing laundry of any possibly contaminated clothes or bedding helps. Be sure to include pet bedding, toys, and blankets. Use hot water for the wash and run the dryer on high heat.
For an infected mattress, enclosing it in an airtight plastic covering will kill the bugs. But, honestly, if you can, get rid of the mattress and buy a new one.
If your house is infected, you will most likely need a EPA-approved pesticide, and you would be wise to use a professional exterminator. Be sure to follow all guidelines on the use of these chemicals. You and all your pets will need to be out of the house.
Avoiding bed bugs is the ideal way to go. Always check hotels, dorms, and cabins before you unload any luggage or supplies.
German chamomile has a wide array of uses for dogs. It is considered very safe for pet use but be mindful that some dogs may be allergic to it, so check for sensitivities before use. Credit: BiancaGrueneberg | Getty Images
Chamomile can do a lot for dogs including helping to reduce your dog’s anxiety, improve her skin and coat, support digestion, repel insects, and even help with ear or eye infections.
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In addition to being great for enrichment activities, lick mats can help dogs calm down and eat more slowly. We tested six options to see which worked best. Credit: Jae Thomas
Similar to chewing, licking is a naturally soothing behavior for dogs. The best dog lick mats are excellent ways to offer your dog enrichment in a calming, relaxing way.
Most dog lick mats are made of silicone or rubber and have various crevices or textures, making them ideal vehicles for peanut butter, softened kibble, raw food, or canned food. They can also be frozen to extend mealtimes, which is great for dogs who eat too fast.
A frozen lick mat will slow a dog down significantly more than a slow feeder bowl and won’t cause as much frustration for dogs who have trouble with puzzle toys. These handy tools are also good for dogs who get nervous in certain situations (like at the vet or in the car), since licking has a naturally calming effect.
In addition, lick mats can be great enrichment activities when busy pet parents need to keep their pups occupied occasionally.
Here’s how to choose the best lick mat for your dog:
Traits We Want in a Dog Lick Mat
Ease of use: Dog lick mats should be easy to fill, freeze, and clean. Because lick mats have irregular (and sometimes tiny) patterns, being dishwasher safe is a must. You don’t want to have to hand wash sticky peanut butter or leftover wet food from tiny crevices in a lick mat.
Extra features: Extra features like suction cups to keep the lick mat from moving are handy. Some lick mats also offer additional enrichment though extra features, like wobbling lick bowls for an extra challenge, or waterproof suction mats for bathtime.
Note that some dogs get frustrated with more difficult puzzle toys. Lick mats with lots of compartments or options that wobble may not be suitable for dogs who are easily frustrated. Instead, opt for a lick mat with a single, simple pattern.
Durability: The durability your dog needs will depend on their preferences. Puppies or dogs who tend to chew should avoid lick mats and opt for Kongs or the West Paw Toppl instead. Very small dogs and gentle lickers will likely prefer a softer, more soothing mat, while high-energy excitable dogs may enjoy the extra challenge of a lick mat with deeper, irregular crevices.
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The LickiMat classic soother is great at getting dogs to calm down. Less of a puzzle toy and more of a calming activity, the soft bristles and singular pattern reduce frustration and promote decompression.
Though they’re not the most durable option (opt for something else for teething puppies), this two pack of Frisco Lick Mats offers enrichment at an affordable price.
The LickiMat Wobble is a good option to feed full meals in, since it holds up to four cups of dry kibble (slightly less if soaked). It’s a bit hard to fill with liquid and freeze, since it has a rounded, wobbly bottom.
This waffle-shaped lick mat is divided into four different sections, so you can easily vary the “toppings” or treats you offer to your dog on it. It’s relatively sturdy and thick, so it doesn’t slide around much on the floor.
This lick mat is designed to suction to your shower walls so your pup can have a treat during bathtime. It has very deep grooves and requires quite a bit of food to be put in it, which is heavy when frozen and may cause your mat to slide off the wall.
Best Dog Lick Mat: LickiMat Classic Soother
The LickiMat Classic Soother kept our tester dogs happy and busy for quite awhile. It also cleaned up easily and kept its contents well-contained. Credit: Jae Thomas
If the goal of a lick mat is to give your dog a quiet, soothing activity, the LickiMat Classic Soother does a good job of that. It doesn’t have a ton of different textures or compartments and isn’t too difficult for dogs to get the food/treats out of, though it entertains them for quite a long time with its dense bristles.
The pattern on this mat is simple and the texture is soft, encouraging dogs to lick and calm themselves down. It’s great for dogs who get frustrated with puzzle toys or who give up on lick mats with complicated textures.
The big rim around the edge keeps watery treats from spilling out, and it cleaned up easily in the dishwasher.
The only downside to this option (like most lick mats) is that it needs to be placed on something rigid when filling it with liquid if you plan to freeze it. It’s a little bit too floppy to fill with liquid then transfer to the freezer without spilling the filling.
Best Dog Lick Mat with Suction Cups: Woof LickMat
The Woof LickMat is easy to use and sticks well to hard surfaces. The company offers a LickMat spread to go with it, but the mat can be filled with just about anything. Credit: Jae Thomas
Woof is constantly innovating dog enrichment toys and the new Woof LickMat lives up to the hype. It has a few different uses.
First, you can add water to the brand’s LickMix spread (sold separately) and stir it in the center bowl before spreading it onto the rest of the mat. The mix comes in several different flavors and though the powder can get a little messy during the mixing process, it ultimately doesn’t matter since you’ll be spreading the powder mixed with water all over the mat anyway.
The LickMix spread is convenient since it doesn’t require being put in the freezer. It thickens up on its own after mixing with water and sitting for five minutes.
Secondly, you can simply spread your dog’s favorite treat or wet food onto the mat. Freeze the mat after spreading food on it for an extra challenge.
The mat has a bunch of small suction cups on the back of it, so you can affix it to the floor, the shower wall while giving your dog a bath, or any other hard surface. It can be a little difficult to use the suction cups if the mat is already filled with food (your hands may get a little messy), but it stuck well to my hardwood floors and my bathtub walls. Many lick mats slide around while your dog works on them, so the suction helps it stay in one place.
Best Budget Dog Lick Mats: Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mat (2 Pack)
The Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mats come as a pack of two with each having a different texture. They keep dogs busy for a long time but may need a couple of cycles in the dishwasher to get fully clean. Credit: Jae Thomas
If you have two dogs or like to prep multiple lick mats at a time, the Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mat 2 pack is the most economical option on this list. I’ve had these two lick mats for years. They’re not the most durable (the gray one has a few nibbles on it from when my Collie was a puppy), but they’re great for trustworthy adult dogs who don’t destroy enrichment toys.
The two different textures both offer long enrichment periods with shallow crevices for your dog to lick their favorite treats out of. Both mats are top rack dishwasher safe, though they sometimes take two wash cycles to get completely clean if you use a sticky treat, like peanut butter, on them.
The only other downside to these mats is that I wish they were a little more rigid. Since they’re floppy, it’s hard to put them in the freezer with liquids on them without spilling.
Best Dog Lick Bowl: LickiMat Wobble
When it comes to slowing down a dog who eats too quickly—or just needs some entertainment—the LickiMat Wobble bowl gets the job done. Our tester dogs took almost an hour to get through a meal. Credit: Jae Thomas
For smart, high-energy dogs or dogs who eat their meals way too fast, the LickiMat Wobble bowl is a great way to slow down mealtime. It holds about 4 cups of dry kibble—less if it’s soaked since it expands—and can be filled with liquid like water or dog-safe chicken broth and frozen.
With frozen soaked kibble and water, it took my dogs nearly an hour to finish their food in this LickiMat, buying me some much-needed quiet time to take a few work calls.
The only downside of this option is that it’s a little bit difficult to fill and freeze since it has a rounded, wobbly bottom. I put it inside of a slightly bigger bowl to keep it stable while I filled it, then put the bowl and the LickiMat in the freezer together.
Another Good Dog Lick Mat Option: Spot Belgian Waffle Lick Mat
With four separate sections, the Spot Belgian Waffle lick mat is great if you’re looking to give your dog several different things to taste. However, the sharp corners can make it more difficult to clean. Credit: Jae Thomas
The Spot Belgian Waffle Lick Mat is a great divided option. The four different sections can be filled with a variety of treats, foods, or supplements to keep mealtime fun for your pup.
It’s sturdy and rigid, but the sharp square corners of this mat tend to hold onto wet food and peanut butter, even when put in the dishwasher. It may require multiple washes to get fully clean if you use sticky or thick fillings.
This mat is a bit heavier and more rigid than other options on this list, so it doesn’t move as much when dogs are working on it, even though it doesn’t have suction cups.
Best Lick Mat for Bath Time: Aqua Paw Lick Mat
The Aqua Paw Lick Mat is ideal for keeping dogs occupied and happy during bath time. It sticks well to most shower walls but may slide if it gets too heavy. Credit: Jae Thomas
I used to use the Aqua Paw Lick Mat frequently while giving my Collie a bath when she was a puppy. The suction cups are a great idea to make bath time more enjoyable for dogs and this lick mat sticks well to most shower walls and bathtubs (it can also be affixed to the ground for non-bath usage).
The main downside of this option is that it’s very large (opt for the smaller size for small dogs) and requires a lot of food to be put in it since the grooves are so deep. When frozen, it’s very heavy and during testing, sometimes slid off the shower wall from the weight. This is another option that requires multiple cycles in the dishwasher to get completely clean.
In addition to being relaxing, stretching and massage can help alleviate or prevent joint pain in dogs. Credit: BigshotD3 | Getty Images
When it comes to joint pain relief for dogs, there are many options out there. Most dogs do best with multimodal therapy combining several treatment solutions.
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Your dog may be foaming at the mouth because he is drooling and panting at the same time, which causes bubbles in the drool that looks like foam.
Credit: Heather Paul | Getty Images
Most causes of a dog foaming at the mouth are not concerning. Consider what your dog has been doing, his current body language and attitude, and if he has any signs of injury or illness to discover the cause.
Often a dog foaming at the mouth happens simply because they are excited, stressed, or have been exercising heavily. But if your dog seems unwell, it could be something more serious.
Aerated Drool
Dog saliva is usually flat, but panting can add little air bubbles to the drool. This is what causes the appearance of foam! Air can get into your dog’s drool for many different reasons:
Panting or breathing rapidly from excitement
Sniffing heavily while also drooling (especially for male dogs sniffing a female dog’s urine)
Panting due to stress or anxiety
Panting heavily after exercising or playing hard
Ate something that tasted bad
If your dog is foaming at the mouth but acting normally, one of these causes is often the reason.
Nausea
If your dog feels a bit pukey, he will likely drool more than usual. This drool can become aerated with tiny bubbles, making it look like foam.
Young dogs frequently experience car sickness, and will be nauseous, drooly, and foam at the mouth when riding in the car. Thankfully most puppies grow out of this. To help your dog, try different methods of riding in the car: crate versus harness with seatbelt, able to see out the windows versus covered to block the view. Your veterinarian can prescribe meds for persistent or severe motion sickness in dogs.
Health Causes of Dog Foaming at Mouth
Several health conditions can cause excessive drooling and resultant foaming at the mouth. Dogs with an underlying issue causing the foaming will likely have additional symptoms.
Heat stress or heat stroke
Nausea from a viral, bacterial, or metabolic illness
Heat stress can occur when a dog overheats, usually from being too active in hot conditions or not having adequate ventilation and water availability. If you suspect heat stress in your dog, move him to shade, apply water to his head, underside, and paws, and seek veterinary care immediately.
Many infections and illnesses can cause nausea. Exact symptoms will vary, but can include poor appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and weight loss. Schedule a vet appointment to get a diagnosis.
Dogs with dental disease often drool to try to soothe his mouth. Antibiotics can help, but the best solution is often a dental cleaning under anesthesia to get the teeth and mouth fully cleaned up.
If something is stuck in your dog’s mouth, he may paw at or rub his face and may gag. Gently remove the item if your dog will let you, but some dogs may require sedation to free a stuck object.
Many toxins cause nausea. If you know or suspect your dog has consumed a toxic substance, call a pet poison hotline immediately to find out the best course of action.
A word on toads: many toads cause dogs to foam at the mouth if the dog licks them. Know what toads are in your area, and if they are generally safe or can be toxic. Rinsing your dog’s mouth with water is often helpful.
Bloat is when the dog’s stomach swells and fills with air, possibly also twisting and cutting off blood supply. This is an emergency that may require surgery.
Rabies virus is a worldwide problem and is fatal. This is why rabies vaccination is so important to keep you and your pets safe. If your dog is up to date on his rabies vaccination, it is extremely unlikely that his foamy mouth is due to rabies infection.
Anise is often used for nosework and scent games for dogs but it also offers a number of health benefits. Credit: Heather Paul | Getty Images
Anise, which has a licorice-like taste and fragrance, is not toxic to dogs and is generally considered safe in small quantities. It is often used in nosework training and offers other canine benefits including:
Improved digestion
Reduced gas and bloating
Freshened breath
Stress reduction
Increased training interest and focus
Anise vs. Star Anise for Dogs
Anise (Pimpinella anisum) is a flowering annual plant of the parsley family. It is native to Egypt and the Mediterranean but is now grown around the world. Anise is known for its seeds, which flavor sweet and savory dishes and can help alleviate symptoms of indigestion and respiratory illnesses. Anise essential oil flavors spirits like ouzo and arak.
Although the names and scents are similar, anise (the small seeds pictured in the front) and star anise (the star-shaped plant in the back) are unrelated. Anise is considered the safer of the two to give to dogs. Credit: bdspn | Getty Images
Native to southwest China, star anise (Illicium verum) is a popular spice with a scent similar to anise. However, the plants are unrelated. Star anise seeds, named for their unique star-shaped appearance, have a sweet licorice-like flavor that is more pungent than that of anise seeds.
Star anise is controversial because in large amounts or in concentrated forms (such as distilled essential oils), it can trigger seizures in dogs. While star anise can be used safely in small quantities, anise seeds from Pimpinella anisum are considered the safer choice for dogs.
Are Anise Seeds Safe for All Dogs?
Although most dogs tolerate and benefit from anise seeds, they are not recommended for pregnant dogs because anise can stimulate the uterus. Some veterinarians warn against feeding anise to puppies until they are at least 6 months old because their digestive tracts are still developing. Large quantities of anise seed are not recommended for any dog because large doses depress the nervous system.
When feeding crushed or powdered anise seeds, watch for signs of discomfort, including excessive scratching, loose stools, diarrhea, or vomiting. Such allergic reactions are rare as anise seed is generally safe for dogs, but if any of them occur, discontinue use.
Anise essential oil is not recommended for topical use or as a food additive for dogs. Save the essential oil for nosework training or similar activities.
Using Anise Essential Oil in Nosework
Anise seed essential oil is used in nosework training as a target scent along with other distinctive essential oils such as birch, clove, and cypress. Dogs quickly recognize anise, which enhances their ability to detect and locate items treated with it. Anise naturally excites and interests dogs, which is why it’s popularly known as “dognip” and why exposure to its fragrance makes scent articles all the more rewarding.
Even if your pup is not studying nosework, he can enjoy searching for and finding any toy, towel, or other object that has been scented with a drop of anise essential oil. Recommended sources include Amrita Aromatherapy, Aura Cacia, and Mountain Rose Herbs.
Adding Anise Tincture to Your Dog’s Food
Tinctures are concentrated extracts containing alcohol or glycerin, and although comparisons vary according to manufacturing methods and the quality of ingredients, 1/4 teaspoon of tincture is usually considered equivalent to 1 teaspoon of crushed or ground seeds, and 3/4 teaspoon of tincture is equivalent to about 1 tablespoon of crushed or ground seeds.
Tinctures can be added to your dog’s food, and most dogs enjoy the taste. Recommended anise seed tinctures are available from Herb Pharm, Herbal Terra, and other manufacturers. It typically comes in glass bottles containing eyedropper dispensers.
To determine a daily dose, start with 1 drop of tincture per 2 pounds of your dog’s weight. This would be 10 drops for a 20-pound dog (0.5 ml or about 1/8 teaspoon), 25 drops for a 50-lb dog (1.25 ml or about 1/4 teaspoon), or 50 drops for a 75-lb dog (2.5 ml or about 1/2 teaspoon).
Adding Anise Seeds to Your Dog’s Food
The benefits of adding anise seeds to your dog’s food can include improved digestion, better breathing, and increased relaxation because anise is a mild sedative. Although its use as a respiratory aid is less associated with canine than human health, some dog owners consider anise to be helpful for reducing coughs.
For best results, purchase anise seeds from Frontier Co-op, Starwest Botanicals, Gneiss Spice, or other organic suppliers. Crush or grind them with a mortar and pestle, coffee grinder, food processor, or blender. Store the crushed or powdered seeds in your refrigerator to maintain freshness.
Add small amounts to food and observe your dog’s response. If all goes well and your dog enjoys the taste, increase amounts gradually. Give up to 1/2 teaspoon crushed or powdered anise per day to small dogs (weighing less than 15 pounds); 3/4 teaspoon daily to medium dogs (15-35 pounds); 1-1/2 teaspoons daily to large dogs (35-70 pounds); and 2 teaspoons daily to dogs weighing more than 70 pounds. Divide doses in half if you feed twice a day.
Anise-flavored Dog Treats
Anise seeds flavor all types of foods, including baked goods like biscotti. Bone Bons makes Carrot Anise Biscotti Dog Biscuits so your dog can enjoy that fragrant, crunchy experience, too.
To make your own anise-flavored dog treats (see some sample recipes below), gather the ingredients and equipment, preheat your oven, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. If using peanut butter or nut butter, look for brands that contain only one main ingredient (peanuts or nuts) and avoid brands containing sugar, xylitol, hydrogenated oils, or other additives.
Combine ingredients one at a time, mixing them with a stand mixer, food processor, or by hand.
After baking, leave treats at room temperature for a day or two, which helps harden biscuits, making them sturdier and crunchier. Depending on ingredients, home-prepared dog biscuits may last for several days to a week or more at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator. For long-term storage, freeze in air-tight containers.
Meaty Anise Dog Biscuits
3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (wheat, gluten-free, almond, or other)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup butter or coconut oil
1/2 cup finely chopped cooked bacon, fish, meat, or chicken
1/2 cup milk or coconut milk
2 tablespoons ground anise seed
Combine ingredients and mix well to create a soft dough. If you have a cookie press, experiment with different shapes and press cookies onto a parchment-covered cookie sheet. If you don’t have a cookie press, create balls and press them with the tines of a fork. Bake at 275°F (135°C) for 30 to 40 minutes or until light brown.
Pumpkin, Carrot, Coconut Anise Dog Biscuits
1-3/4 cup all-purpose flour (wheat, gluten-free, almond, or other)
1/2 cup canned pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons unsweetened peanut or nut butter
2 eggs
1 cup grated carrots
1 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut
1 tablespoon ground anise seed
Combine ingredients, use a rolling pin to roll the dough 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, and shape with cookie cutters. Bake at 350°F (177°C) for 30 to 35 minutes or until light brown.
Oatmeal Anise Dog Treats
3 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup unsweetened peanut or nut butter
1/2 cup applesauce, mashed banana, or pumpkin puree
1-1/2 tablespoons ground anise seed
Process the oats in a food processor or blender to create a coarse flour. Add the nut butter, fruit puree, and anise, blending well. Roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thick and cut with a cookie cutter or knife to desired shapes. Bake at 300°F (149°C) on a middle oven rack for 25 to 30 minutes until crisp.
Far from hiding, Dante regularly enjoys taking naps under the bed. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
If you’ve ever wondered “Why does my dog hide under the bed?” or “Why does my dog sleep under the bed?” there are a lot of potential reasons. They include a desire for security, a search for a cool spot, or a bid for attention.
For Dante, the area under the bed is a quiet place where he takes a nap. Jitter was afraid of fireworks and hid under the bed when she heard them. Momo goes under the bed because she knows it’s a surefire way to get attention from her owner. Star runs under the bed with contraband paper that she wants to tear up.
Why Do Dogs Sleep Under Beds?
For lots of dogs, under the bed is just a quiet, cozy place to nap or stay cool in summer’s heat. Heather Houlahan, who has a small farm in Pennsylvania, says she could tell what season it was by the location of her German Shepherd, Lilly:
Winter—on the bed
Spring/Fall—on the rug
Summer—under the bed, seeking coolness, possibly stuck
“Lilly used to slide under there and find herself in difficulties because a 75-pound dog cannot actually fit.”
Will a Dog Hide Under the Bed for Privacy?
Zippy, a Miniature Pinscher mix, was five months old when her family had to bug out from the Palisades fire in Los Angeles on January 7. She wasn’t fully housetrained, and stability went out the window as her people moved from hotels to rental houses until they could get settled again. Along the way, Zippy apparently decided that under the bed was an ideal place to poop.
“She likes her privacy, and she was tiny enough to stand up under the bed in one of our longer temporary lodgings,” says owner Susanne Howarth.
Howarth speculates that Zippy might have had trouble figuring out how to indicate that she wanted to go out. That particular rental was on the second floor with no immediate outdoor access and no nearby grass when she did get outside. That can be confusing for a puppy.
Will a Dog Hide Under the Bed Out of Fear?
For some dogs, slithering beneath the bed is a response to fear. Things that might scare dogs into hiding under the bed include:
Storms
Fireworks
Large trucks
Electronic beeping sounds
The sound of the doorbell
“You could name a thousand things,” says veterinary behaviorist Lisa Radosta, DVM, DACVB. “They might have been rescued from a hoarding situation where they like little dark places.”
And sometimes it’s a mystery. Jo Mercer had one dog who was too large to fit beneath the bed, but he would sometimes stick his face underneath it as far as he could. “I don’t know why,” she says. “Was he aggravating the cat? Sniffing out a mouse?”
What Should You Do if Your Dog Hangs Out Under the Bed?
If your dog is hiding under the bed, you may not need to do anything or you may need to take action. It depends on the reason. If your dog is hiding in response to noises such as fireworks or thunderstorms, Radosta recommends seeking veterinary advice sooner rather than later since studies show that noise fears can intensify over time. White noise machines, classical music, apps to alert you to approaching storms, a cozy hideaway in an enclosed windowless area such as a closet or bathroom, or in severe cases, medication, can all help. Dell found that a Thundershirt relaxed Jitter during fireworks.
Keep in mind that some dogs may hide when they are ill or in pain. If your dog suddenly starts hiding under the bed when they haven’t before, it may be time for a vet visit to make sure all is well.
However, if your dog simply enjoys lying under the bed, there’s nothing wrong with letting the quirk continue. Let it go unless there’s some risk to the dog.
If you find yourself dealing with a flea or tick infestation, finding the right flea and tick shampoo for your dog can make all the difference. Credit: Jae Thomas
Despite our best efforts, dogs sometimes end up with fleas and ticks. If your dog has an active flea or tick infestation, knowing what steps to take to get rid of the pests will make the whole ordeal less stressful for you both. Choosing the best flea and tick shampoo for dogs will depend on your dog, whether you have other pets in the home, and your vet’s recommendation.
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ADHD-like behaviors in dogs may include having trouble staying still, barking excessively, being obsessed with play, having extreme destructive tendencies, and/or struggling to interact calmly with humans and other dogs. Credit: Alberto Menendez Cervero|Getty Images
I suspect we’ve all been there, maybe more than once: your dog is off playing and acts like he’s lost his hearing completely: you call his name—over and over—but he pays absolutely no attention. Or maybe he gets so excited that he seems to be bouncing off the walls, and there’s nothing you can do to calm him down. Or even after hours of training, he still jumps up on visitors when he first sees them. At times like these, when you’re ready to tear out your hair in frustration, you may have wondered if it’s possible that your dog has ADHD…because he’s sure acting like it.
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Caption: A dog’s tail helps him with movement, communication, and balance.
Credit: Martin Ruegner | Getty Images
A wagging tail is often seen as a sign of a happy dog. But your dog’s tail is far more than a barometer of emotion: It’s a complex and highly functional extension of its spine that serves a variety of purposes.
Do Dogs Have Bones in Their Tails?
The short answer is, yes. A dog’s tail is a series of vertebrae that gets progressively smaller toward the tip. On average, a dog’s tail has between five and 20 vertebrae, which are surrounded by muscles, nerves, and blood vessels. “Dogs’ spines continue in their tails with caudal vertebrae. The number of caudal vertebrae varies between dogs,” says Jamie Whittenburg, DVM, chief of staff at Kingsgate Animal Hospital in Lubbock, Texas.
According to Bond Vets, a chain of veterinary clinics, because tails are made up of skeletal muscle and tendons/ligaments which, unlike the smooth muscle of intestines and blood vessels, it is under voluntary control. “It stands to reason that dogs have control over their tail movements just like they do over their leg movements,” says Bond Vets.
What’s the Purpose of a Dog’s Tail?
Your dog’s tail communicates a wide range of emotions and intentions to other dogs and to people. “Each dog is unique and has their own way to communicate their feelings and emotions,” says Dr. Whittenburg. “Some dogs use their tails more than others.”
And some of those uses are often misinterpreted, according to Tufts University. For example, a relaxed, friendly dog may have a tail that wags in a swishing or circular motion. However, if a dog is feeling anxious, fearful, or stressed, its tail is often lowered or tucked between its legs.
Lastly, a dog that is aroused or hyper alert may hold its tail up high and wag it in a stiff, quick motion. Rather than a sign of friendliness, it indicates a state of excitement, alertness, or aggression.
In addition to communications, a dog’s tail serves especially when the dog is running, jumping, or navigating uneven terrain. Fast, agile breeds use their tails like a rudder to shift weight and maintain stability. Think of your dog’s tail like a tightrope walker’s pole, which is used to constantly adjust their center of gravity.
Historically, tail docking was performed on working dogs to prevent injuries that might occur while hunting or herding. It was also done for cosmetic reasons or to conform to specific breed standards set by kennel clubs.
However, the practice is now a subject of much debate. “Removing a dog’s tail can affect its communication and hinder the ability to express and convey emotions. I believe that tail docking is an unnecessary and cruel cosmetic procedure that negatively impacts dogs,” says Whittenburg.
The AVMA finds the question isn’t how harmful the procedure is but whether there is justification for removing it. “The only benefit that appears to be derived from cosmetic tail docking of dogs is the owner’s impression of a pleasing appearance. In the opinion of the AVMA, this is insufficient justification for performing a surgical procedure. deeming it medically unnecessary and a cause of pain and distress for the dog.”
The AVMA and RSPCA argue that a dog’s tail is essential for its well-being and communication, and as a result, the practice is now banned or heavily restricted in many countries.
Ultimately, the practice of tail docking is considered by most of the veterinary community to be a painful and unnecessary mutilation that deprives a dog of an integral part of its anatomy, essential for communication and overall well-being.
Dr. Whittenburg says one of the common injuries she sees is degloving, where the skin is forcibly ripped from the tail. “This happens for a variety of reasons,” she says, “including being hit by a car and having their tails accidentally shut in doors.”
And then there’s “happy tail.” This also occurs frequently and is due to the impact of an exuberantly wagging tail hitting the wall and other objects. “The end of the tail splits open and typically there is a lot of blood seen,” says Dr. Whittenburg.
While typically not emergencies, these tail injuries expose delicate nerves that cause pain, so veterinary intervention is advised. “Sometimes, bandaging the injured area and giving antibiotics and pain medication will prevent infection, calm the nerves, and allow the tail to heal. In severe, chronic cases where the wagging will not stop and the injury will not heal, the best solution is surgical shortening of the tail,” advises the VCA Animal Hospitals.
Ultimately, a tail is a multifaceted part of your dog’s anatomy. It’s an indispensable tool for balance and communication, and a vital component of its overall well-being. Understanding the function of the tail—beyond just a wag—lets you better interpret your dog’s emotions, appreciate their unique physical abilities, and advocate for their health.
Be aware that some temporary dog fences can offer a terrific escape route to a dog who doesn’t mind the climb. Credit: Dageldog | Getty Images
Whether you’re traveling, remodeling your backyard, or need a fence to put up at camp or at your RV, a good outdoor temporary dog fencing for dogs can keep you and your dog happy. A portable temporary fence can give your dog a little freedom, but it must be safe and secure.
But not just any old fence will do, and the internet is flooded with temporary dog fence ideas—many of which won’t give us peace of mind.
Types of quality temporary dog fences include:
Plastic mesh
Wire mesh
Ex-pens, also called exercise pens
Free-standing kennels with or without a roof
Metal no-dig fence panels by the piece
Let’s dig into more about each of these choices.
Plastic Mesh as a Temporary Dog Fence
Plastic mesh fence is often used as temporary dog fencing at dog sporting events, but it often lacks the sturdiness and safety needed for long-term, unsupervised control. Credit: Basak Gurbuz Derman | Getty Images
Often called snow fence or safety fence, this is typically the type of fencing that you might see at construction sites. It comes in many colors. Standard size is 4 feet high by 100 feet long but can also be purchased in shorter heights and smaller rolls.
You can use metal rods to secure it or wrap it around trees if the area supports such an option. This is what I used to patch a tree made hole in my fence until the fencing repair people could get me on their schedule. I have also used this for a temporary fence for a rescue group picnic for the dogs who came along to socialize. It is often used at dog sporting events, where the dogs are under verbal control or on a leash. This is not the best fence to choose if your dog will be unsupervised.
You can buy this type of fence online from home supply stores as well as U-Line and Amazon. There are countless brands, some of which are marketed as temporary dog fences, and some are simply sold as safety/snow fencing.
Pros of plastic mesh fencing: Relatively inexpensive, easy to use, very visible.
Cons of plastic mesh fencing: Can be difficult to secure, making it of questionable use for a determined canine escape artist, even with a secure bottom.
Wire Mesh as a Temporary Dog Fence
There are a multitude of wire mesh options, including chicken wire, which is made of flexible galvanized steel to varying strengths of welded steel mesh. The thickness determines the cost, with chicken wire being less expensive than a sturdier welded weave. This can make a very solid temporary fence along with the metal poles necessary to secure it.
Pros of wire fence: Sturdier than plastic mesh, which makes it easier to handle while installing install and a stronger choice than plastic, especially for a large dog. Woven wire chicken wire can be relatively inexpensive.
Consof wire fence: Welded steel can be nearly as expensive and challenging to install as a permanent fence when looking at the hardier weaves. Yardgard offers quality fence in this category.
Exercise Pens as a Temporary Fence for Dogs
Stringing together a number of ex-pens and ensuring the resulting enclosure is sturdy is probably the simplest temporary dog fence. Just be aware of the height the dogs behind the enclosure can jump and any dogs who enjoy a good climb. Credit: Debibishop | Getty Images
You can get several ex-pens and link them together as well as securing them to the ground with the metal rods for such that come with most models. There are also some very nice choices meant to be used outdoor models that come in various sizes, including quite large. They come in varying heights, with or without built-in gates.
I prefer them without gates. I simply open the securing connectors when releasing the dog(s). I find that to be the more secure option. Gates can be accidentally opened. The clips, when clipped properly, are far less likely to do so.
Pros of ex-pens: In many ways, this can be the most inexpensive option, especially if you find some at garage sales, and they’re oh-so-easy to set up.
Cons of ex-pens: These aren’t the most sturdy option for determined escapers. Brands that I found for outdoor use include FXW Rollick and Zippity Outdoor Products. Most are widely available with FXW even being available on Chewy. They also make indoor versions that can be used outdoors. Midwest products offers a wide variety of ex-pen options as well.
Free-Standing Kennels as Temporary Fencing for Dogs
This type of temporary fencing is exactly what it sounds like. An actual kennel, freestanding and not needing to be secured in ground, available with or without a roof. They are probably the most secure type of temporary fencing of the options, simply because the fencing for these is so high, even more secure when you opt for the type with a roof.
Pros of free-standing kennels: Kennels are generally secure, easy to set up, and self-shaded when opting for roofed version.
Cons of free-standing kennels: Kennels are expensive for a large enough option to include sufficient room to run, perhaps the least attractive option if you are not fond of the cage-like look. Brands that I liked include Veikhous, Retriever Lodge, KennelMaster, and K9 Kennelstore.
Metal No-Dig Fence Panels as Temporary Fencing for Dogs
I found this to be a most interesting option for a temporary dog fence. Some of the options don’t really specify the type of metal used but other options mention wrought iron. All state there is no need to dig to install and that only a rubber mallet is necessary to pound each piece into place. They range in heights from 24 inches to 48 inches. You choose how many panels to purchase and that determines the total cost.
Pros of metal no-dig fence panels: They’re easy to install and relatively inexpensive compared to some other options, sturdy if you choose wrought iron.
Cons of metal no-dig fence panels: The lack of posts concerns me, as it can make this option much less secure. Brands for this option include Zippity Outdoor Products and Jinligogo (wrought iron option).
Considerations In Choosing a Temporary Dog Fences
Some important points to take into consideration that can help you choose the best option for your dog, the location of the fence, and how long you’ll need to use it.
Sturdiness of the fence: Your dog should not be able to wobble the fence or tip it over by jumping on it or leaning against it.
Your dog’s climbing/digging abilities: If your dog is an expert climber or digger, then this means special additions for your temporary fence are necessary. For your darling digger, I love Dig Defence. For the climbers, you can consider a Coyote Roller. If you’re clever, y ou may be able to do a DIY version using inexpensive PVC as opposed to the original metal version. Originally created to keep coyotes out of fenced-in areas, it also keeps your climbing canine monkey inside.
Your dog’s energy and activity levels: If you have an adolescent who considers zoomies light cardio, then you need more room than if you have a senior who just wants to sit/lay outside and meditate with nature. Of course, this also depends on how you intend to use the fence.
Your dog’s reactivity level: If your dog is the type to bark or react in any way to typical triggers that may include other dogs, passing humans, children playing, bicycles/wheeled recreational toys, cars, etc., then what they see from inside of the fence is an important consideration for the type or fencing as well as the location of such. Again, this will depend on how you intend to use this temporary fence.
Typical Uses for a Temporary Dog Fence
All the above-mentioned options can be successfully used on a temporary basis while remodeling or saving up for a permanent fence. Some will require more supervision than others, such as the snow fence, no-dig panels, and ex-pen options.
If you are installing this temporary fence on grass or dirt, which is the typical choice, then metal with secured poles will be the sturdiest choice but also the most labor intensive to install. This is the way to go if you have a large sturdy dog who will challenge the fence. Add the Dig Defence options for diggers or the Coyote Roller top for climbers.
But if you truly want this fence to be temporary and as low maintenance as possible, the best prevention for digging is simply supervision. One cannot say the same for jumpers, who will jump whether supervised or not. So, choose as tall a fence as appropriate for your beloved jumper. For your reactive dog, you can easily cover the metal fence with privacy screen made from polyethylene mesh.
The kennel options can be placed on either a grass surface or a concrete surface such as a driveway, if you are remodeling your yard. This option requires the least supervision, if you properly secure it, but it’s also typically the most confining option, which is not ideal depending on your needs.
For traveling, the choices are less abundant. How you are traveling determines the size of your temporary fence. The larger options can be stored on an RV/motor home. Smaller options can be transported on a roof rack. Most of the travel options are basically larger metal ex-pen type containment systems that are suited for outdoors rather than indoors. Or you can link several smaller ex-pens together to create a larger area, along with the metal yard poles that typically come with the pens. There are also very lightweight interlinking plastic ex-pen options for smaller or more sedate dogs. Several of the No Dig Panels are marketed as RV fences for traveling. Supervision is recommended for these types of temporary fences, especially since traveling can add some excitement or anxiety to your dog’s typical temperament.
Whatever option you end up with, think in terms of safety and cover all your bases—climbing, jumping, digging—and you should be able to keep your dog safe, temporarily, of course.
If your dog is having a panic attach, stay calm, find a safe place for them, and use soothing strategies where possible. Never punish a dog experiencing a panic attach as it could make the fear and anxiety worse. Credit: Alexandra Jursova | Getty Images
Have you ever wondered if dogs can have panic attacks? Many pet owners are surprised to learn that our four-legged friends can experience sudden and overwhelming episodes of fear that look a lot like human panic attacks.
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