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Best Toothpastes for Dogs

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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1
Dog toothpaste should be formulated with the right ingredients, and flavors dogs enjoy.
In addition to being formulated with the right ingredients, the best dog toothpastes also come in flavors dogs tend to enjoy. Credit: Jae Thomas

We’ve all smelled doggy breath. But that stinky odor coming from your dog’s mouth isn’t just “how dogs are” — it’s often a sign of bad oral hygiene or periodontal disease.

Just like humans, dogs’ teeth get plaque and tartar up from food if you don’t brush often enough. Brushing your dog’s teeth with a dog toothpaste and toothbrush regularly can help control build up on your pup’s teeth and keep it from getting worse.

If you have a young dog who doesn’t have much build up yet, brushing regularly with a high-quality dog toothpaste will keep those teeth pearly white, and may help reduce the risk of associated health problems.

We talked with Dr. Teresa Manucy DVM, a Florida-based virtual veterinarian for Chewy’s Connect with a Vet service, about how to pick a dog toothpaste for your pet, and all things related to dog dental health.

How Often Should You Brush Your Dog’s Teeth?

“It’s ideal to brush a dog’s teeth daily since the plaque is easy to brush off before it calcifies within 48-72 hours,” says Mauncy. She recommends focusing on the upper and outer surfaces of your dog’s teeth, since the majority of food build up occurs near their lips and cheeks.

“Brushing at least two to three times per week will help prevent the development of serious dental disease,” she says.

If you don’t brush your pup’s teeth regularly, Mauncy says that your dog may have an increased risk of developing tooth and gum issues, like gingivitis, periodontal disease, tooth loss, and possible tooth fracture. Severe periodontal disease can also lead to bone loss, infection, and even organ damage.

How To Pick Out a Dog Toothbrush
The most important thing to think about when selecting a dog toothbrush is picking out one that won’t be aversive to your dog. Soft rubber finger toothbrushes are best for pups who are just learning how to sit for tooth brushing, while soft bristled dog toothbrushes with angled heads are good options for dogs who sit patiently for oral care.

Traits We Want in a Dog Toothpaste

“When purchasing a dog toothpaste, pet parents should consider ones that contain ingredients that are safe for dogs to swallow,” says Mauncy. Human toothpaste should never be used on dogs, since the ingredients are not safe for ingestion.

“Dogs do not spit their toothpaste out and ingestion is likely,” she says. “Human toothpaste often contains detergents, fluoride or xylitol which are toxic if swallowed.”

Mauncy also recommends finding a toothpaste with a flavoring that your dog enjoys. From a training perspective, your pup will be happier to have their teeth brushed if they enjoy the flavor of the toothpaste, since it’ll act as a treat during the process.

In terms of ingredients, dog toothpastes should contain an abrasive ingredient like sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), calcium carbonate, or silica. Abrasive ingredients help physically target build up on your dog’s teeth, alongside a toothbrush.

Antibacterial ingredients like lactoperoxidase and grapefruit seed extract may help target harmful bacteria in your dog’s mouth. Other ingredients, like dicalcium phosphate and glucose oxidase, are included to help break down plaque or control tartar.

The Best Dog Toothpastes

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceSizeIngredientsNotes
Petsmile Professional Natural London Broil Flavor Dog Toothpaste$152.5 ozWater, Glycerin, Dicalcium Phosphate Dihydrate, Citric Acid, Calcium Peroxide, Flavor, Sodium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Urea Peroxide, Phosphoric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, EDTA, Cetyl Pyridinium Chloride, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan GumThe only VOHC-approved dog toothpaste on the market, Petsmile Professional dog toothpaste is worth the cost for the peace of mind of knowing that it’s been proven to control plaque and tartar on your dog’s teeth.
Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Poultry Flavor Dog & Cat Toothpaste$13.502.5 ozGlucose Oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Sorbitol, Purified Water, Dicalcium Phosphate Anhydrous, Hydrated Silica, Glycerine, Poultry Digest, Dextrose, Xanthan Gum, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium ThiocyanateAn enzymatic option loved by dogs and vets alike, the Virbac C.E.T. is my personal favorite. My vet recommends it and it’s been my toothpaste of choice for multiple years. My almost 6-year-old dog has never needed a dental cleaning, thanks to regular brushing with this toothpaste.
Vet's Enzymatic Dog Toothpastes$9.503.5 ozGlycerin, Aloe, Pectin, Neem Oil, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate), Glucose Oxidase (Enzymes) and Natural FlavorsThis option contains the most natural ingredients on this list, so it’s ideal for pet parents looking for a dog toothpaste without artificial ingredients. However, the texture of this gel toothpaste is a bit runny and can be hard to use.
Vetoquinol Enzadent Enzymatic Poultry Flavor Dog & Cat Toothpaste$143.17 ozSorbitol, Glycerin, Silica, Calcium Pyrophosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Poultry Extract, Purified Water, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Lactate, Potassium Thiocyanate, Zinc Gluconate, Vitamin E, Glucose Oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Lactoferrin, Lysozyme.Another great enzymatic option, the Vetoquinol Enzadent dog toothpaste features a poultry flavor that’s derived from real meat. My tester dogs loved this toothpaste, but it’s not suitable for dogs that may have chicken or turkey allergies.

Best VOHC-Approved Dog Toothpaste: Petsmile Professional Natural London Broil Flavor Dog Toothpaste

Our overall pick for the best dog toothpaste is the only one approved by the veterinary oral health council.
The Petsmile Professional toothpaste is the only dog toothpaste on the market approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council. Credit: Jae Thomas

The VOHC, or Veterinary Oral Health Council, is an organization that recognizes and gives a seal of approval to products that meet certain criteria for dog and cat oral health. The VOHC reviews data from trials done on these products, and the products have to be proven to slow down plaque and tartar buildup on animal’s teeth.

Petsmile Professional is the only dog toothpaste on the market to have a VOHC seal of approval, which is great for pet parents who want a toothpaste that’s proven to help keep their pup’s teeth and gums healthy.

The Petsmile Professional toothpaste is a no-brush formula, so it’s great for dogs who are just learning to have their teeth brushed, or who can’t sit still for long. Just rubbing this toothpaste on your dog’s teeth and gums will help control plaque and tartar build up.

During testing, my tester dogs were skeptical of the London broil flavor at first but eventually warmed up to it.

Best Enzymatic Dog Toothpaste: Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Poultry Flavor Dog & Cat Toothpaste

Enzymatic toothpaste may more effectively fight tartar and odor than competing dog toothpaste.
The Virbac C.E.T. enzymatic dog toothpaste is an effective and often-recommended option for keeping a dog’s teeth clean at home. Credit: Jae Thomas

According to Mauncy, enzymatic toothpastes are helpful for dog oral health, as they are formulated with specific ingredients that target harmful bacteria in your dog’s mouth.

“The ingredients also react with sugar molecules in their mouth to create a chemical reaction that helps degrade plaque and tartar on their teeth and inhibits new tartar formation,” she says.

The Virbac option contains multiple antibacterial and plaque control ingredients (like glucose oxidase and lactoperoxidase) that help keep your dog’s teeth clean.

The Virbac C.E.T. toothpaste is one that I’ve been using on my dogs for years, and is recommended by my personal vet. My dogs are pretty sure that the poultry flavor is chicken-flavored frosting, and they usually are happy to lick the toothbrush after brushing. The beef flavor, however, has not proven to be as tasty.

This toothpaste does a great job at reducing the amount of buildup on my dog’s teeth, but I noticed anecdotally that their breath smells fresher with this one if I use it daily as opposed to just a few times per week.

Best Natural Dog Toothpaste: Vet’s Best Enzymatic Dog Toothpaste

Made with natural ingredients vet's best is a good choice for dog toothpaste.
If you’re looking for a natural toothpaste for dogs, Vet’s Best is a good choice. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Vet’s Best Enzymatic Dog Toothpaste is a good option for pet parents looking for a toothpaste without artificial ingredients.

Note that not all natural toothpastes are created equally. “Natural or organic dog toothpastes may also work due to the friction from brushing to scrub the plaque off the teeth,” says Dr. Mauncy. “These should be part of a comprehensive oral routine since they do not replace dog toothpaste.”

The Vet’s Best Enzymatic toothpaste is a good middle ground option. It features an enzymatic formula to help with plaque and bad breath, but otherwise features natural ingredients, like aloe and grapefruit seed extract.

This toothpaste is banana flavored, which my dogs didn’t love, and the gel texture was runnier than other options. I felt like I had to use more toothpaste to really coat my dogs’ teeth during testing and if I wasn’t careful, the toothpaste would slide off the toothbrush before I could get it into my dog’s mouth.

Best Flavored Dog Toothpaste: Vetoquinol Enzadent Enzymatic Poultry Flavor Dog & Cat Toothpaste

Made with genuine meat flavors Vetoquinol Enzadent is one of the best dog toothpastes reviewed.
Made with a real meat-derived flavoring, Vetoquinol Enzadent dog toothpaste was very popular with our tester dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas

Another enzymatic option, the Vetoquinol Enzadent dog and cat toothpaste, is very similar in texture to the C.E.T. toothpaste. It’s safe for both cats and dogs, is formulated with multiple ingredients that control plaque and work against harmful mouth bacteria. It also has a poultry flavor that my tester dogs absolutely loved.

It’s the only dog toothpaste on this list that includes a real meat-derived flavoring, (it has poultry extract listed in its ingredients), so it’s no surprise why the tester dogs loved it. If your dog has poultry allergies, skip this option, since it only comes in one flavor.

Cobbing in Dogs

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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4
Dog cobbing, or nibbling with their front teeth can soothe anxiety or express affection depending on the dog and the context.
Cobbing in dogs is a gentle nibble, usually only the front teeth. Credit: Bucsa Nicola | Getty Images

Nibbling, or “cobbing,” refers to a dog gently chewing with his front teeth. The term cobbing may have been coined because the dog’s nibbling resembles a human nibbling on a corn cob. Dogs have been known to do this to their owners, other humans, other animals, themselves, and toys. Let’s explore the many reasons for cobbing in dogs. I asked this question of both fellow trainers and just plain dog parents and received a lot of input on why dogs cob.

Why Do Dogs “Cobb”?

Expressing Affection: Many dogs seem to enjoy greeting their humans by gently nibbling on arms or hands. Dogs might nibble you when the human is scratching the exact spot on the dog’s body that gives them the most pleasure. It’s a happy relationship connection when done in these contexts. Cobbing can also often be directed at housemates when relaxing together, in what appears to be a way to affectionately reconnect. Stories from dog parent friends include tales of their dogs cobbing their best feline friend in this manner as well as their best canine friend. My puppy seems to do it to his older “sister” out of affection and when he wants to play.

Part of Play: Dogs frequently nibble each other as part of play. My giant breed puppy gently nibbles up and down the side of my Chow’s body to invite play. It’s amusing to watch. There are often some grunting and snuffling sounds that are included in this activity as well as wide grins with lolling tongues between cobbs.

Communication: Some dogs use cobbing to calm a canine housemate when they seem to be annoyed. It’s usually well received and works quickly and easily. Cobbing in this context is often focused on the side of the face and quite brief.

Grooming: Cobbing is often part of grooming other animal housemates in the home. This can be separate from simple affection shown or included with such, but grooming is the added feature here.

Teething: Puppies do this when they are teething to relieve dental pain. As the puppy finds it soothing in this context, I think the emotions from the soothing remain even after teething pain is gone, so the older puppy or dog continues cobbing.

When Dogs Cobbing May Be a Problem

Cobbing may be seen in other contexts that can be concerning.

Boredom: Insufficient enrichment, either mental or physical, can cause excess cobbing. It may be directed at humans in the home, other animals, or even inanimate objects such as pillows, blankets, toys, furniture, and other items that really weren’t intended for cobbing at all. This results in unhappy humans as well as unhappy dogs. If excess cobbing is causing destruction, assess the dog’s daily life. Is the dog getting sufficient physical exercise? Walks are not meant for cardio activity; they are mental enrichment. Make sure that your dog is getting a physical outlet for their level of activity needs, such as playing ball, playing with other dogs who are friends, or running loose in a safe enclosure.

Are they getting sufficient mental enrichment? This can include training games, being permitted to sniff to their heart’s content on walks, playing with you, and being given an opportunity to exercise their brain. Do they have concerns about a change in the routine? Change can cause anxiety, and the result can be cause for concern.

Anxiety and/or Stress: Cobbing on toys is normal until it isn’t. What I mean by that is if it’s seemingly self-soothing and not obsessive, it’s probably fine. If it starts happening suddenly when it isn’t already part of perhaps an evening self-soothing routine, then it’s time to examine what has changed to cause it. If it’s already part of how your dog winds down, but the intensity ramps up, look at the big picture. My puppy’s sudden ramped-up cobbing happened when he went on behavioral medication for anxiety. The dose was low for his weight, but it was too high for him. Reducing the dosage helped him go back to normal evening self-soothing cobbing that he can easily leave if something else catches his attention such as a chew bone.

Pain/Illness: Anxiety over not feeling well can accelerate cobbing. Making sure that you fully understand your dog’s normal behavioral responses is crucial to recognizing what is outside of normal. Because they cannot tell us what’s wrong, we must understand theirs to properly care for them.

Breed-Specific Cobbing

I used to rescue Dobermans. They are well known for self-soothing with pillows and/or blankets. I always made sure that mine had what we called “sucky pillows.” I have seen my dog-parent friends with other potentially higher-strung working breeds such as German Shepherds and various Belgian breeds as well as herding breeds like Border Collies also mention the strong propensity for cobbing. My puppy is a livestock-guardian breed and some of them can certainly be more prone to drama than say a Labrador or Golden Retriever. Again, this comes down to knowing your dog. Look at the whole picture to determine whether cobbing is a problem or not. Most of the time, it isn’t. I offer my puppy his favorite cobbing toys at night, and he grins at me. It’s all good.

Can Dogs Taste Spicy Foods?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Dogs can taste spicy foods, but their response is usually distress and fear not enjoyment.
Your dog may think he wants that spicy food you’re preparing, but don’t give in. He won’t enjoy the “taste,” and it may even make him sick. Credit: Alexander Donin | Getty Images

Two common questions among pet owners is whether their dogs can taste spicy food and, more importantly, whether they should have it. The short answer is no to both questions. Dogs can’t “taste” spicy food and, no, they should not have it. It may even lead to diarrhea, vomiting, gas, and stomach pain.

 

 

Can Dogs Taste Spice?

While dogs have tastebuds, just like us, they have far fewer than we have. While adult humans have roughly 9,000 tastebuds, our canine companions only have around 1,700 of these specialized sensory organs. This reduced number means their range of taste perception is less complex. They can detect the basic tastes of sweet (something cats lack), sour, salty, bitter, and umami, but their sensitivity to these flavors varies. For example, dogs tend to be more sensitive to umami and meat flavors and less responsive to salt. When it comes to “spicy,” however, things get a bit more complex.

Spiciness is not a taste, rather it is a sensation. Specifically, it is the result of a chemical irritation caused by capsaicin, a compound found commonly in peppers and come other plants in the Capsicum genus. Capsaicin in plants likely evolved as a defense mechanism to deter mammalian herbivores from eating fruits and seeds, which can be destroyed during digestion.

Capsaicin activates a receptor in mammals known as TRPV1, which detects pain and heat. When capsaicin binds to this receptor, it creates a burning sensation that humans perceive as spicy. Dogs, like humans, have TRPV1 receptors and can therefore feel the burn of capsaicin. However, because they lack the psychological context for spicy food as something enjoyable, they usually find the sensation unpleasant and distressing.

Can Dogs Eat Spicy Food?

Given that dogs can feel the heat of spicy food and may experience discomfort from them, is it a good idea to feed them spicy foods? In short, no. Feeding dogs spicy foods can lead to a range of gastrointestinal problems including stomach pain, diarrhea, gas, and vomiting. In some cases, the irritation caused by capsaicin can lead to inflammation in the digestive tract. There is also the concern of creating a conditioned taste aversion.

If a dog has a bad experience after eating something spicy, they may then associate that discomfort with accompanying smells or foods and develop a reluctance to eat them in the future. Because of this, hot sauce is sometimes used as a deterrent to stop puppies from chewing on household items. Some owners try to stop chewing behavior by applying a small amount of hot sauce on furniture legs, electrical cords, or shoes. An alternative to hot sauce includes lemon juice or commercially available non-toxic bitter spray, which still carries an unpleasant flavor without the risk of causing mouth or digestive irritation.

While dogs can detect the burn of spicy foods through their TRPV1 receptors, they do not derive pleasure from it and may suffer from digestive upset as a result. While spicy substances, like hot sauce, may deter some puppies from chewing on household items, it carries with it risks and should be used sparingly and with caution. For the health and comfort of your dog, it is best to avoid spicy foods and stick to healthy, non-spicy treats that they can enjoy.

Is That a Snake Bite on My Dog?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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2
A snake bite of a dog can indicate the need for immediate medical attention.
Dogs will fight snakes and can easily be bitten. If you suspect a dog snake bite, call your veterinarian immediately. Credit: Srisakorn | Getty Images

The dog snake bite timeline usually starts like this: You’re walking through the woods, and your dog is off exploring. Suddenly, he yelps, and you see a snake slithering away (possibly causing you to also yelp!). Venomous snakes can be found everywhere in North America. Was THAT snake poisonous?

Do not panic. If you panic, your dog will stress, which increases his blood pressure and moves any injected venom faster into his body. Remember, most dogs survive even venomous snake bites, and it’s possible your dog got a “dry bite,” which means no venom was expressed.

Snake bites can usually be identified by the bite itself. In general, nonpoisonous snake bites show horseshoe-shaped teeth marks, while poisonous snake bites tend to have one or two puncture marks from fangs, and they may be bleeding.

Dog Snake Bite Symptoms

Symptoms of a snake bite in a dog can vary with the type of snake. Nonpoisonous snake bites often do not swell or cause pain and require basic first aid. Venomous bites, however, tend to be extremely painful and are usually accompanied by rapid swelling.

In general, signs of venom poisoning include:

  • Restlessness
  • Diarrhea
  • Panting
  • Drooling
  • Wobbly gait
  • Vomiting
  • Shallow breathing
  • Shock
  • Death

Dog Snake Bite Identification

If your dog was bitten by a snake, head back to your car or home, quickly but calmly. Don’t waste time trying to identify or capture the snake. If it was a coral snake, you would know immediately by the bright coloration. The “big three” snakes can all look similar, and they are rattlesnakes, copperheads, and water moccasins. Fortunately, the same antivenom is used with all the “big three” snakes.

The venom of coral snakes, however, has neurotoxins and can lead to paralysis. Treatment for their bites requires special antivenom, which is why it’s helpful if you notice bright coloration on the snake. Not every veterinary clinic has it.

Emergency Protocol for Snake Bite in Dogs

Call your local veterinary clinic or emergency clinic to see if they have antivenom available. If not, ask them to track a source down so you know where to go. Again, don’t panic, for the common venomous snakes in North America, you almost always have some time, not just minutes like you see on some Western tv shows.

Do not put on a tourniquet or try to suck the venom out. You might do some harm and, if nothing else, you are wasting valuable travel time. Icing, antihistamines, and steroids are all on the list of things NOT to do for snake bites in dogs. If your dog was bitten on the face or neck, remove the dog’s collar because there may be swelling.

Antivenom is expensive, but it is the best chance for minimal permanent damage to your dog. Plus, especially for a small dog, it might be the difference between life and death. Your dog will usually be kept at the veterinary hospital for observation and bloodwork to evaluate him. Oxygen may be required if he has swelling in his face and/or neck.

Fortunately, most dog-snake encounters are with nonvenomous snakes such as garter snakes and black snakes or black racers. These are helpful snakes that eat rodents. If your dog attacks one, however, he might get bitten and the bite is painful.

If you find your dog hunting, catching and killing snakes, check for bite wounds. Wash any wound out thoroughly, with lots of water, saline solution, or dilute chlorhexidine solution. Observe for redness that might indicate an infection brewing. My Cirneco dell Etna, Tux, hunts snakes to my dismay (I like snakes and want our good snakes left alone!). So far, he has dispatched a number of snakes with no bites.

Avoid Snake Bites in Dogs

How to avoid snake bites? If you live in an area with numerous venomous snakes, consider having snake-aversion training. Ask your veterinarian or local dog club for reputable trainers.

Remember that snakes are not out hunting you or your dog. Given the option, they will leave. So be aware of the possibility of spotting a snake on hikes and, if you spot one, detour well around it. Check with local parks where you hike for the best times and ways to avoid snake contacts.

Best Dog Raincoats

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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2
The best dog raincoat will protect your dog in rainy conditions without being too hot during periods of intermittent sun.
Sunny weather during testing meant getting creative with the garden hose. Luckily, the Fjord Raincoat 2.0 was up to the task. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
It was pouring down rain in Paris late last September and the coat we had brought for Sparkles, while warm, wasn’t waterproof. So we put her in her stroller, zipped up the cover, and trudged off to Michette, a pet supply store about half a mile away. It carried dozens of dog raincoats in all styles and colors. Sparkles waited patiently as we tried them on her, looking for one that fit and wasn’t too difficult to put on.
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How Often Should I Take My Dog to the Vet?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
How often should you take your dog to the vet? Once or twice a year for routine checkups is the minimum for a healthy dog.
Take your dog to the vet at least once a year to get vaccinations, have a health checkup, and catch any illnesses sooner than later. Credit: Dann Tardif | Getty Images

Even if your dog appears healthy, routine vet visits are essential for early detection of health issues, disease prevention, and maintaining a high quality of life. Many pet owners wait until their dog shows signs of illness before scheduling an appointment, but by then health issues may have progressed to a point where they are both more complicated and more expensive to treat.

 

Average Cost of a Vet Visit for a Dog

The cost of veterinary care varies significantly depending on your location and your dog’s specific needs. On average, a wellness exam costs between $70 and $150, though it may be higher in urban areas or for specialty clinics. Vaccines typically cost around $15 to $100 each, depending on the vaccination itself, often plus an office-visit charge.

Basic bloodwork panels can cost between $80 and $200, depending on how comprehensive the testing is. Additional services, such as fecal exams, urinalysis, or heartworm and Lyme testing will add to the cost of the visit. Pet insurance or wellness plans offered by some veterinary practices can help offset these expenses and make preventative care more affordable.

How Much Is a Vet Visit without Insurance?

The cost of a vet visit without is the same as the cost of a vet visit with insurance. That’s because, for most pet insurance policies, you must pay the veterinarian at the time of service and then submit a claim to your insurance for reimbursement. Some plans do offer forms of direct pay to the veterinarian, but they each have their own system. And, for basically all of them, your veterinarian must be willing to accept this method of payment.

An Annual Vet Visit Is the Minimum

For most adult dogs, a vet visit once a year is the general guideline, and even if you think your dog is well, it’s important for your dog to see your veterinarian once a year to remain an active client.

An annual wellness check typically includes a physical exam, vaccinations, and possibly screening tests, such as bloodwork, depending on the dog’s age, breed, medical history, and lifestyle. During a physical exam, the vet will check your dog’s heart, lungs, ears, eyes, teeth, and overall body condition. They may ask you about your dog’s behavior, diet, and activity level to assess any subtle changes that could indicate an underlying problem. Vaccinations, such as rabies, distemper, and Bordetella, are often updated at these appointments as well.

Bloodwork, which is often recommended for dogs annually, especially as they age, typically includes a complete blood count (CBC) and a chemistry panel to evaluate organ function. Bloodwork can uncover infections, anemia, diabetes, liver and kidney problems, and more. While not always necessary at every visit, annual or bi-annual bloodwork gives your vet a baseline to detect changes, which can be early signs of disease.

Puppy Veterinary Visits

Puppies require more frequent vet visits, usually every three to four weeks until the puppy is around 16 weeks old. These early visits are focus on vaccination series, deworming, parasite prevention, and monitoring growth and development. After the first year, most dogs transition to the once-a-year schedule, but some dogs, particularly those with chronic health issues, senior dogs, or dogs on long-term medications, may need checkups every three to six months.

Even if your dog seems perfectly healthy, regular vet visits allow for early detection of diseases that may not yet show symptoms. Conditions like kidney disease, thyroid imbalances, dental disease, arthritis, and certain cancers can be identified through physical exams, bloodwork, and urinalysis before your dog begins to act sick. Catching these issues early often leads to better outcomes for your pet and can significantly extend their life. Additionally, routine checkups allow your vet to keep your dog up to date on flea, tick, and heartworm preventatives, which are critical for long-term health and comfort.

Vet visits are not for just when your dog is sick, they are an essential part of preventative care that can help detect problems early, maintain your pet’s health, and ensure a longer, happier life. While the costs of routine veterinary care can add up, they are often far less than the expense associated with treating advanced illnesses, making regular vet visits a wise and compassionate investment.

Best Slicker Brushes for Dogs

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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0
A young woman brushing a long haired golden retriever with a slicker brush.
Anyone with a long-haired dog, especially one with a thick coat, will tell you that a slicker brush with varying sized bendable pins is a grooming-box staple. Credit: Eugenio Marongiu | Getty ImagesEugenio Marongiu | Getty Images

If you have a medium- or long-coated dog with silky to floofy fur or a curly-coated dog like a Poodle or a Doodle, a slicker brush should be part of your grooming box. In this article, we’re going to explain what a slicker brush can do, the finer points of using a slicker brush, and how to choose the best slicker brush.

 

 

What Is a Slicker Dog Brush?

A slicker brush has a handle and a wide head, which has flexible, bendable pins of differing lengths. Slicker brushes are great for shedding. While they are designed for general grooming, good slicker brushes also remove and/or prevent mats in the coats. Slicker dog brushes are especially great for removing debris, burrs, and other plant matter that seem to grab onto these kinds of coats when the dog is out and about enjoying sniffaris.

How to Use a Dog Slicker Brush

Dog slicker brushes are used like brushes but with a lighter touch. Some are a bit firmer than others, with cause, depending on the goal. For instance, dogs with thicker coats might require a firmer brush, while a dog with softer hair will do well with a softer slicker brush. With such an abundance of sizes and styles out there from small to large, wide base to small base—even self-cleaning with some brands—we collected five slicker brushes for dogs that we think are the most popular and compared them.

How to Pick a Good Dog Slicker Brush

The best dog slicker brushes pull hair and matts from a dog effectively
A good slicker brush will pull hair and debris from your dog’s coat but will require frequent cleaning. Credit: A good slicker brush will pull hair and debris from your dog’s coat but will require frequent cleaning. Credit: Lightspruch | Getty Images

The best slicker brush depends upon your dog first and then your preferences.

Self-cleaning slicker brushes: These have a much thicker visual base than regular slickers. This may be a concern if that visual might cause some anxiety in your dog. Just be aware your dog may take longer to get used to using a self-cleaning slicker brush. Slicker brushes need to be cleaned periodically while grooming as they fill with fur. A self-cleaner basically retracts the pins and you brush away the fur. The regular brushes require you to pull the hair out, much as you do your own hairbrush.

Pin length and bends: The length and flexibility, or softness, of the pins will concern your dog. A thick-coated dog like a Collie, Sheltie, or Australian Shepherd will require longer pins to get deeper into the coat. A Papillon, a long-haired, single-coated, breed requires softer flexible pins.

Types and shapes of handles: These matter for the human’s comfort when using the brush. A slimmer ergonomic handle is usually the most comfortable option, but your hand size will determine comfort for you. Most slicker brush handles have a rubbery, comfortable feel.

How We Selected Our Favorite Slicker Brush

We chose what we determined to be the five most popular slicker brushes available, based on recommendations from dog competitors, dog trainers, and regular dog parents.

We then compared each brush’s ease of use as well as how heavy each felt in our hand. We evaluated how comfortable each was to hold while in use.

The visual of the brush head with how the dog would see it was an important factor for us. A larger visual can mean a more anxious dog, depending on that dog’s level of anxiety with this process.

And, of course, of primary importance was how comfortable the dog felt when being brushed with each brush, using a solid knowledge of dog body language to determine how the dogs reacted to each brush.

Finally, we compared the ease of cleaning of each brush.

The Best Slicker Brushes for Dogs

RatingProduct and ManufacturerPriceNotes
Chris Christianson Big K Slicker Brush$59.90Well-designed, comfortable for dog and handler, and did a great job. A top-quality brush, although the price may give you pause. Our top choice.
Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush$12.99This brush isn’t perfect. We’d like a more comfortable handle, but our dogs liked it and you’re getting a lot for the money here. Our best buy choice.
Swithawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush$19.98A bit heavy and maybe too large for smaller hands, but the handle felt soft.
It has a self-cleaning feature that we loved, and it gives you color choices. It’s worth considering.
iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush$20.99This brush comes with a flea/tick comb. It felt light in our hands, especially for a dual-sided brush. The pins were bendable, and it cleaned nicely. But both our dogs and us preferred other brushes.
Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush$10.49The least expensive brush in our comparison and advertised as firm. Too firm for us, unfortunately.

Here’s what we found:

Best Overall Dog Slicker Brush: Chris Christianson Big K slicker brush:

4 Paws

The Chris Christianson slicker brush was a dream to use, pulling out those tiny clinging burrs that fall weather in the Northeast brings in abundance, and leaving the coat looking great.

The Big K was a dream for dense long-haired coats. We found it to be the best dog brush for shedding and debris removal for this type of coated dog. It very gently but thoroughly pulls out the undercoat with barely any pressure on the dog in question.

The handle is comfortable and ergonomically designed. It’s one of the more expensive slicker brushes on the market, but it’s worth the price. Retails for $59.50. Our top choice.

Chris Christianson Big K Slicker Brush

Best Budget Dog Slicker Brush: Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush

3 1/2 paws

This brush has a wide brush head that we liked. It’s a little heavier than most other slicker brushes, probably due to its metal backing to the brush head. We found the pins area was a bit longer and better curved than the self-cleaning brush options. The handle is comfortable but not as ergonomically designed as the Chris Christianson. One dog who was not a big fan of slicker brushes in general, retreated from all the brushes except this one and the Chris Christenson. That said, most dogs can be conditioned to tolerate and even enjoy being brushed with an appropriate brush at the most appropriate pressure for that dog.

This brush was a bit more difficult to clean than the others in this comparison, probably due to the wider brush base, but it was really no more than most slicker brushes that didn’t make the initial cut. At $12.99, it’s a great deal for both price and function, and we’re going to call it our best buy.

Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush

Best Self Cleaning Dog Slicker Brush: Swihawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush:

3 paws

The Swihawk brush has a larger presence than many slicker dog brushes due to the self-cleaning feature. That means that the end piece that has the enclosed brush in it is thicker than those that are not self-cleaning. Because of that larger presence and the self-cleaning feature, it is also heavier than most, even the Hertzko one with the metal base for the pins. It also has a thicker handle, which may not be ideal for smaller-handed groomers.  However, it is curved and feels soft in the hand.

The self-cleaning feature is superb and oh so easy to use. You can remove all the fur that you just brushed out pretty much in an instant with this brush. The pins in this brush are shorter than others in the comparison and less curved, which may be issue for some dogs, especially if your dog’s fur is longer than the pins! For a shorter or perhaps silkier-coated, this would work great. Overall, the self-cleaning option is very attractive. It also comes I color choices, if that matters to you. Priced at $19.98, this brush is worth considering.

Swihawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush

Best Slicker Brush for Dense Coats: iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush

3 paws

This is a dual-headed and dual-sided brush. One side has straight pins, and the other side has curved pins of a nice length. It’s promoted as being a gentler option for more sensitive dogs, but our test dogs didn’t seem to agree. It seemed to pull on the fur a bit more than the other options, aside from the Safari. The brush does not have a large presence, the handle is quite comfortable and grippy, and the brush feels very light. It is very flexible and does seem to bend into the brushing again as advertised. It was easy to clean probably because of that dual head on each side. For denser coats, like German Shepherds have, it seemed to work great. It comes with a coordinating flea and tick comb for $20.99.

iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush

We Also Tested: Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush

2 paws

As the name indicates, this brush is firm. It has a small presence with its compact head. The handle was comfortable, albeit a bit shorter than the others. The pins are reasonable long and perfectly curved. The instructions for use for each type of dog coat that this brush may work for are very detailed, which is super helpful. The manufacturer does suggest using a light touch with longer flowing coats. We agree. This brush is the least expensive choice, retailing for $10.49, but we shy away from it due to its firm pins.

Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush

The most important take away here is to make sure that you read the details on which type of coat that each slicker dog brush is meant to be used for and what they do best. This will help you choose the right one for your own dog and help you maintain that glossy coat we all love. And if you’ve never used one on your dog before, take it slow and let the dog get used to the feel of the slicker brush. Happy grooming!

Do Allergy Shots Offer Lasting Relief for Dogs?

By
Dan Muse
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2
A dog allergy shot using one or two common medications can offer long term itch relief.
All that itchy and scratching annoying you and your dog can often be stopped with a dog allergy shot. Credit: Dimarik | iStock

The sight of your dog constantly scratching, licking, or chewing is a familiar and distressing one. Allergic reactions in dogs, often described as itchy skin (or more technically atopic dermatitis), can significantly impact their quality of life.

Fortunately, veterinary research has made great strides, offering a range of effective dog allergy medicine that go beyond simply managing symptoms and now include immunotherapy (e.g., allergy shots), specialized medications like Apoquel and Cytopoint.

Symptoms of Dog Allergies

The most common allergic symptom is itchy skin, but symptoms can also affect the digestive system, resulting in vomiting and diarrhea.

Allergies That Affect Dogs

The three most common allergies in dogs are:

  • Flea allergy, which occurs as a reaction to flea saliva, is considered the most common allergy affecting dogs,” according to the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital, though that varies based on geography. “For example, fleas do not survive well in the Southwest. Environmental allergies are more common there.”

Dogs with flea-allergy dermatitis can get very itchy from only a couple of flea bites. The most affected areas are usually around the base of the tail. If you think your dog may be suffering from flea allergies,  check for fleas and flea dirt on your dog and home.

  • Environment: Like you, your dog can be allergic to environmental factors. As the term implies, environmental dog allergies stem from something in your dog’s surroundings. These could be airborne substances in your home, backyard, or wherever else your dog hangs out and include pollen, dust mites, mold, and grasses.

    These allergies are often triggered by inhaled allergens like dust, mold, pollen, or other plant or animal particles. The allergens can also be absorbed through the skin, leading to a condition called atopic dermatitis, characterized by itchy and inflamed skin

  • Food allergies, which are the least common, occur when a dog’s immune system overreacts to certain ingredients in their diet. Food allergies can occur even if your dog has eaten the offending food many times before. Note that there’s a difference between food allergies and food sensitivities.

    True dog allergies are an immune system reaction to foods the body thinks are harmful, often protein. So, the immune system creates antibodies that trigger allergic reactions. These could show up as wheezing, skin eruptions, itching or swelling. But true food allergies are rare, and experts estimate they affect less than 10% of dogs who experience food reactions.

    Signs of food allergies in dogs, according to Medvet, a network of veterinary emergency and specialty hospitals, include “persistent itching, licking, or chewing different areas of their body, getting secondary yeast or bacterial skin or ear infections, or repeated gastrointestinal signs like vomiting, diarrhea, or excessive gas.”

Allergy Shots for Dogs

“Allergy shots [or  immunotherapy] are the best long-term treatments for controlling environmental allergies in dogs,” says Dr Aimee Warner, a veterinary surgeon at Medivet.

They do this by slowly desensitizing the immune system, gradually training it not to overreact to the offending allergens such as pollen, mold, or dust mites, Dr. Warner says.

“It is highly individualized, based on allergy testing, and can really cut down on symptoms in the long run. While a commitment, many dogs see drastically improved quality of life without resorting to constant medication,” says Dr. Warner

Dog Allergy Medication Options: Cytopoint vs. Apoquel
Several drugs are often used to manage allergic symptoms in dogs, including antihistamines and corticosteroids, according to Warner. “However, the best options in cases of moderate to severe allergies are usually Apoquel and Cytopoint. Both drugs target the itch-scratch cycle in a different way and help suppress inflammation. While over-the-counter antihistamines like Benadryl may have some weak effect, they are usually ineffective in severe cases of allergies.”

Cytopoint is an injectable monoclonal antibody that, Warner says, inhibits a protein that causes itch in dogs. It acts in 24 hours and lasts four to eight weeks per injection. “The best thing about Cytopoint is how targeted and safe it is — it’s not an immunosuppressant, so it’s ideal for dogs that cannot handle other medication. It’s particularly effective in dogs with chronic allergic dermatitis.”

Like Cytopoint, Apoquel is a first-line treatment for allergic itch, but these medications are not interchangeable. It inhibits specific pathways (JAK enzymes) involved in itch and inflammation to dampen the immune system, with quick relief that is typically seen within hours. Cytopoint injections are given monthly and target a particular itch-inducing protein.

“I tend to prescribe Cytopoint for younger dogs or dogs with chronic allergy management requirements, while Apoquel might be better for short-term relief or when injections are not possible. Some dogs even do well with a combination strategy, depending on the response,” Warner says.

Immunotherapy For Dog Allergies

While allergy shots offer hope for dogs plagued by allergies, they aren’t perfect solutions for every dog or dog owner. According to leading veterinary dermatologists and research from veterinarian schools at institutions like Cornell University, and the University of Wisconsin here are three things to consider:

  • It can take six to 12 months to see the full benefits, and initial injection frequencies can be high before moving to maintenance (typically about every four weeks).
  • Many dogs require lifelong maintenance injections to sustain the benefits.
  • Initial testing and treatment can be an investment, though it may be more cost-effective long-term by reducing reliance on symptomatic medications.

For a Tailored Approach to Allergy Relief Partner With Your Veterinarian
Managing dog allergies requires a partnership between you and  your veterinarian. Whether through the long-term, disease-modifying approach of immunotherapy, or the effective symptomatic relief offered by medications like Apoquel and Cytopoint, the goal remains the same: to alleviate your dog’s discomfort and restore their quality of life.

A thorough veterinary examination and discussion of your dog’s specific needs, lifestyle, and your preferences will help determine the most appropriate and effective treatment plan.

Developing a Dog Exercise Routine

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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0
A dog exercise routine provides your dog with mental stimulation as well as physical health.
Belinsky does canine conditioning with her blind dog, Mack, to keep him active. Credit: Howling Moon Photography/Courtesy of Canine Athletics Training Center

Keeping your dog well-exercised has a variety of benefits. Not only will you keep them at a healthy weight and their muscles limber, you can also use exercise as a way to bond with your dog and provide them with mental enrichment.

Before you begin an exercise routine with your dog, there’s a lot to know. We chatted with canine physical therapist Dr. Courtney Wheeler, PT, CCRT, from Walking Paws Rehab in Boulder, Colorado, and canine conditioning coach, Kirsten Belinsky, CPDT-KA, CSCC, from Canine Athletics Training Center in Longmont, Colorado about all things dog exercise.

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How to Train Your Dog to a Dog Whistle

By
Pamela Dennison, CWRI, CDBC
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0
Dog whistles whether they're audible or not can play an important role in teaching your dog training cues.
Teaching your dog to come to a dog whistle takes a clear plan, consistency, and repetition. Credit: Fertnig | Getty Images

Dogs can learn to respond to all sorts of sounds and cues, but among the most effective for a solid recall, or “come,” is a whistle. While you don’t need a special dog training whistle—and we don’t think there is a “best dog whistle”—you should consider a fixed-pitch whistle, such as the Acme 211.5 whistle, because consistency is important in training.

In this article, we are going to explain how to use a dog whistle to teach a recall. We’re not going to discuss using a dog whistle to stop barking. We want a whistle to be a positive cue to do something, not stop doing something.

Why Train Your Dog to a Whistle

A dog whistle can get your dog’s attention better than your voice, especially because voices can reflect emotion, like panic, excitement, or even anger. A whistle is consistent.

Before we start, the benefits of training your dog to come to a whistle include:

  • If your dog is starting to lose his hearing, the whistle will often still be heard even when he can no longer hear your voice
  • If you have inadvertently poisoned your “Come” cue, the whistle is a great alternative
  • If the dog gets lost, the whistle sound travels much farther than a verbal recall
  • The whistle can be heard over nature’s sounds even the surf, thunder, rain, etc., and even manmade sounds like a generator or loud trucks
  • The whistle is never annoyed, angry, scared, or panicked—it sounds the same every time

The relationship between you and your dog must be in place first before working on the whistle. Start by dropping any negativity. Stop all physical and verbal punishments, including the word “No.” Why? “No” easily escalates into a screamed “No!” dredging up negative emotion, which is then transmitted to the dog.

Before we discuss the actual whistle, we need to have a few things in place first:

  • Eye contact
  • Name response
  • A verbal recall cue

If you’ve poisoned your dog’s name or verbal come cue—meaning those words mean nothing to your dog because you have used them inconsistently—now is the time to change them.

Grab a clicker, have a handful of small high-value treats. Click once and hand the dog a treat (within a half second). Repeat for two solid minutes. You should never need to do this step again.

In the same session, grab another handful of treats, put your food hand behind your back and wait. Pretty much 99% of dogs will look up at your face and ask, “Why did you stop?”

  1. The instant he looks at you, click and treat (C/T) and don’t say anything. Repeat for two to three minutes, two to three times per day. You can’t train a dog to do anything if they aren’t willingly looking at you.
  2. Next up is name response. Same session: When dog looks at your face, say his name, C/T. Do not say anything to get him to look at you. Just silently wait.
  3. Same session, adding in a verbal recall. Without moving, when dog looks at you, say his name, take a short breath, and then your come cue, then C/
  4. Why no movement? We discuss that below.

Practice the C/T Response

Practice items 1-2-3 two to three times per day, two to three minutes at a time in as many locations as you can (on leash if not in a fenced in area). Dogs don’t generalize. What they learn in the kitchen stays there. Start with quiet places and then gradually go to busier places with slightly more distractions. Still just eye contact, then eye contact plus the dog’s name, then eye contact plus the dog’s name plus “come.” Don’t skimp on these steps. If your dog has a history of ignoring you, we need to change that now. And, don’t forget to breathe.

  1. Add this to items 1-2-3. Same session. Now we’ll start to create a Conditioned Response (CR) to the whistle, so that the dog won’t hesitate to respond.

Three times per day for about two to three minutes per session, for 14 days, you will “prime” the whistle in this pattern. Two short toots and one really long toot and hand your dog a treat within a half second.

You aren’t asking the dog to move. He just hears the sound and gets a treat. I don’t want you or your dog to move. We are doing what’s called “back-chaining,” where you train the last piece of a behavior first. What is the last piece of any recall? The dog will be right in front of you, so they learn that the position and sound pay off quickly.

Practice in as many locations as you can, gradually going to areas with more distractions. Still, don’t ask the dog to move. Don’t cheat! We must build up a foundation first.

Once in a while, I’ll get a dog who is afraid of the whistle. If you do one toot and he hits the dirt in abject fear, do NOT try it again. Test your dog with a squeaker from a toy. If your dog is OK with that, then just use the squeaker as your “whistle.”

Now Let’s Get Moving

You’ve been working on eye contact (attention), name response, come response and priming the whistle, for at least 14 days. Now it’s time to start moving!

Game #1: Drop the Treat and Run

  1. Drop a cookie. Make sure dog sees it! If a dark substrate, use white cheese or chicken. If a light substrate, use a darker treat.
  2. Tell dog to “Get It.”
  3. Run away fast! Keep looking back to your dog. If you don’t look back, you won’t know when to whistle him in. The instant he starts to chase you, stop, turn and face him.
  4. As he’s coming, say his name, take a short breath, then say “Come” or whistle without saying his name. You’re pairing the word or sound with the behavior.

Don’t use a verbal cue and a whistle at the same time. Rotate it between the verbal or the whistle. Keep it to one or the other in each session. Reward with a huge jackpot. What’s a jackpot? It’s not two or three treats! I use 10 to 20 treats, sized appropriately for the dog. Feed one treat at a time. We’re building up a reinforcement history here, so you MUST be generous, each and every time, because a recall is THE most important behavior you can teach your dog. You may also add in tons of praise, petting and play.

What we’re doing here is to get the dog to move away from you, so you can get a head start, to then chase you (dogs love to chase) and then “name” the behavior AS it’s happening.

At NO point should you whistle your dog in if he isn’t already on his way.

You’ll play this game for an entire week, starting in a low distraction location and gradually building up to higher distractions. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.

Game #2: Toss the Treat Farther and Don’t Run

We need to start fading out the running part of game #1, so for this step, you’ll toss the treat much farther, which means at least 20 feet away (be sure to use a much bigger white treat for this so the dog can find it in the grass) and don’t run.

Because you’ve practiced game #1 for a solid week, he will have learned the pattern: Grab the treat and race back to you! This should be easy for him. As he’s on his way back, do your whistle pattern and heavily jackpot, with food, petting, praise and play.

Practice this game for a solid week, again, starting with low distractions, gradually adding in other distractions. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.

At NO point should you whistle your dog in if he isn’t already on his way.

Game #3: Let the Dog Get Slightly Distracted Game

Now we need to fade out not only the running away, but also the cookie toss. If you don’t, the dog won’t come unless you throw the treat and/or run away. Not conducive to the real world.

We start in a low-distraction area. Stand still and be boring. Don’t look at your dog. You can even pretend to talk on your phone. Keep your peripheral vision on him though. When he is about five to six feet away, do one toot and if he responds by turning toward you, finish up the pattern (two short toots and one really long toot) and then jackpot with tons of food, petting, praise, and play.

Practice this for a few reps and then let him go farther away before you do the one toot and then finish up the complete whistle pattern. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.

Gradually let him get increasingly distracted, but don’t go from six feet to 20 feet. That’s setting him up to fail.

Work on these three games for a week each and check in for more steps!

Putting Dog Whistle Recalls to the Test

At this point, your dog should be responding beautifully to his name, and appropriately to the whistle in low to medium environments. I’ll bet you can’t get rid of him!

Now we’re going to increase the scenarios.

Go for a Walk – Part One

Take your dog for a walk either off leash (in a safe area) or on a 30-foot long line. When (not before) he checks in (looks back to you), do your whistle pattern (two short toots and one really long toot) and heavily reinforce with a jackpot of treats, petting, praise and play. The verbally release the dog to go be a dog. Repeat this as many times as it takes for your dog to be checking in every 30 to 60 seconds.

Go for a Walk – Part two

Start to whistle BEFORE they check in. There is a real knack for recognizing what is a good time and what is a bad time to try this. Be attentive to potentially high distractions, so as not to attempt the recall when dog might be in conflict. Set up for success!

If you’re not 100% positive he’ll respond, do a “questioning” toot and if he responds, finish up with the pattern. If he doesn’t start to come toward you, do NOT try it again at that moment. Wait, watch for perhaps less sniffing and try it again. When he does look to you, finish up your whistle pattern.

Troubleshooting: What if the dog still doesn’t respond to the whistle? At this point, they should. However, if they don’t, don’t repeat the whistle. Just wait and judge a better time to whistle them in. If you’re working with a dog who ignores it a second time, just review the “whistle them in when they’re looking at you.”

The Liar’s Game

“Come with distractions” is probably the most important behavior you will teach a dog. There are many different games we can use to teach this essential behavior. This game teaches the dog that YOU are always a “sure bet” and everyone else in the world is a liar:

  1. Toss the treat far. Your “liar” will stand in the middle of the yard with some food or toy. The liar has something of relatively low value to the dog. We want to set him up for success!
  2. Handler runs across the room or yard.
  3. Call (verbally to start) dog to come.
  4. The liar tries to (minor – don’t go full bore on this yet) distract the dog. The liar does NOT let the dog have any goodies or give eye contact.
  5. Do NOT repeat your cue. Just wait.
  6. When dog looks at you, whistle him in and treat with a huge jackpot.
  7. Repeat until the dog is actively avoiding the liar.

Then, as always, gradually increase the distraction and you should get to the point pretty quickly that you can just whistle the dog in without saying his name first.

Increase the value of the objects that the liar has, making sure that YOUR jackpots rise in value also. Add some additional liars and have a few people trying to distract the dog away from his mission of coming to you. Note: Do not use family members as liars.

Hide-and-Seek

Take your dog for a walk on a long line (or off leash in a safe area) and when he isn’t looking at you, hide behind a bush or tree but make sure you can still see him. Say his name once (so he can orient to you) and when he comes running back, whistle him in. BIG party! Food, petting, praise, treats.

Once there is no hesitation, instead of saying his name, just whistle him in.

Keep It Green

As with everything in life, you will need to periodically “prime” the whistle and play some of the games, otherwise your dog may get rusty and not respond as he once did.

What Does Catnip Do to Dogs?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Catnip doesn't do much for most dogs. Rarely, a few dogs may experience a mild sedative effect.
If you want to try catnip on your dog, sprinkle it on a snuffle mat, but don’t expect much a reaction. Credit: Knape | Getty Images

Dogs can have catnip, It’s not likely to do any harm. But, does catnip work on dogs like it does cats? Not really. Catnip seems to have a mild sedative effect on a few dogs, but I wouldn’t recommend it to calm a dog on the 4th of July!

If you decide to expose your dog to catnip, try a small amount of dried crushed plant or fresh crushed leaves. Sprinkling catnip over a snuffle mat would limit any eating and give a low-dose exposure.

I ran a simple experiment with my four dogs. The two female Belgian Tervuren showed no interest in catnip. They aren’t especially interested in cats either. The male Belgian Tervuren and the male Cirneco dell Etna were both interested. They each took the catnip toy when offered and walked off with it. The Terv sniffed and licked it. Sort of his typical toy reaction. The Cirneco sniffed, licked, and rolled on it, but less intensely than my cats do. I did not see any sedating effects.

Is Catnip Bad for Dogs?

Honestly, if your dog shows a lot of interest in your cat’s catnip toys, it is best to keep them away from him. Chewing and swallowing part of the toy could cause an intestinal obstruction.

Interacting with a catnip filled toy is, of course, different from eating either dried or fresh catnip. I do have some growing around my yard. None of my dogs have ever shown any interest in the plants themselves (other than the boys marking, but they are comfortable marking virtually any plant).

What Is Catnip?

Catnip is a member of the mint family of plants. Cat reactions vary with individual cats. One cat may act goofy, another cat may act irritable, and a third cat may just mellow out. Nepetalactone is the active ingredient in catnip, and many cats (50% to 80%) are genetically predisposed to react to this. For a cat, this mimics pheromones similar to a cat in heat.

Catnip leaves do have some vitamin A, magnesium, and vitamin E but in small amounts, so it is not a valid nutritional supplement. Some dogs will have mild gastrointestinal upsets if they ingest a bunch of the plant.

Catnip and other varieties of mint can grow wild and will spread rapidly, so be aware of that if you plan to grow some for your cat. It can also attract stray cats to your yard.

The bottom line is that catnip is unlikely to cause your dog any harm, but it is unlikely to cause much of any behavioral reaction either.

Knuckling in Dogs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Knuckling in dogs is a neurological disorder that causes a dog to walk on their knuckles
If you suspect knuckling in your dog, pick up their paw and watch if he places the pad down first or if he bends the paw and places the top down first. Credit: Pavol Klimek | Getty Images

Knuckling in dogs is a condition where a dog walks or stands on the top of their paws instead of placing them on the ground properly, on their pads. It might appear your dog is having trouble standing and walking all of a sudden, but you need to look more closely and watch how they put their paw down.

Knuckling results in the paw folding under, causing the dog to drag the top of their foot along the ground. Knuckling is not a disease itself but rather a clinical sign of an underlying medical issue. It should never be ignored. It can impact any dog at any age, though it is more commonly seen in puppies during developmental stages or in older dogs with neurological or musculoskeletal conditions. If your old dog’s back legs appear to be collapsing, watch how they put their paws down when trying to move.

While a dog limping on a front leg may make you think of knuckling, it’s dependent on whether the dog is trying to walk with the top of the foot down or not. Lameness can occur with and without knuckling.

Signs of knuckling in dogs include:

  • Walking or standing on top of their paws
  • Sores on the top of their paws
  • Uneven gait
  • Unsteady gait
  • If you lift the foot, dog places paw back with the top down

Causes of Knuckling in Dogs

There are several potential causes of knuckling, and they vary widely in medical severity:

Neurological dysfunction, diseases impacting the spinal cord, nerves, or brain:

Trauma that impairs communication between the brain and limbs:

Muscular or orthopedic issues:

  • Injuries
  • Age-related deterioration
  • Congenital deformities

Nutritional imbalances in puppies:

  • Rapid growth in large-breed dogs, especially when dietary calcium and phosphorous levels are not fed at proper levels
  • Slippery, uneven footing

Treating Knuckling in Dogs

The treatment for knuckling depends on identifying and addressing the root cause:

  • For neurological conditions, treatment may involve anti-inflammatory medications, physical rehabilitation, and, in some cases, surgery.
  • For orthopedic or muscular problems, supportive wraps, splits, orthopedic braces, and physical therapy can help realign the law and encourage proper limb posture while the underlying injury heals.

In puppies with developmental knuckling, improving their footing by avoiding slippery surfaces, limiting high-impact activity, and providing structured movement can help. In some mild cases, the condition may resolve on its own as the puppy matures, particularly when supportive management is in place.

Nutritional Management of Knuckling in Dogs

Nutrition can play a significant role in the prevention and management of knuckling, especially in growing puppies. Nutrition plays an essential role, particularly during growth stages and recovery. Choosing the right diet can help prevent developmental knuckling and support overall.

Diets that are improperly balanced in calcium, phosphorus, or vitamin D can contribute to significant musculoskeletal abnormalities, particularly in large and giant breed dogs. Excessive calcium intake, for example, impacts bone development and can cause bones to grow too quickly or improperly, leading to growth disorders that may present as knuckling.

Ensuring that puppies are fed a complete and balanced diet that is specifically formulated for their size and developmental stage is critical for proper growth and development. For adult dogs, maintaining a healthy weight through proper nutrition helps reduce strain on joints, which can indirectly help prevent issues like knuckling from developing due to joint degeneration.

Knuckling in dogs is a sign of an underlying issue that requires veterinary attention. Early detection and intervention are key, and treatment plans should be tailored to the individual dog based on the root cause of the problem. If your dog begins knuckling, it is crucial to consult a veterinarian promptly to determine the cause and appropriate course of action for your pet.

 

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