Running with your dog can be a great way for you both to get exercise and stay in shape. However, to avoid injuries and make sure your dog is having a good time, be sure to build up slowly to longer, faster runs. Credit: Maria Levkina | Getty Images
What’s better than running by yourself? Running with dogs, of course. If you run regularly, running with your canine companion is a fun way to spend time with your pup while providing physical exercise.
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To be competitive in dock diving sports, the dogs have to love every bit of it: fetching, leaping, splashing, and swimming.
Dock-diving competitions were featured at the county fair last week, and I couldn’t get enough. The dogs—so eager to leap, so graceful as they soared through the air, hitting the water with a tremendous splash, and swimming strongly to the toy/lure. Their handlers—serving more as hype men/personal assistants than bosses issuing orders as they escorted the canine athletes to the launching platform, cheered them on, and helped them from the water and wiped them down with towels after their performances. The relationships between them were so heart-warming to see.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in this sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. After all, he’s wildly athletic, highly toy-driven, can leap high over my head, and loves to swim! He’d be a natural, I thought!
But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears! So much so that if you throw his favorite ball into a river or lake, he will race enthusiastically toward the water, and, as he reaches the edge, will always stop and then carefully wade in before he starts strongly swimming toward the toy. And if a wave or splash from another dog causes him to get water in his ears, he will quit the pursuit of his toy and start shaking his head hard as he swims for shore—which only makes more water get in his ears. Leaping into the water is out of the question for Woody; absolutely nothing could compel him to do it.
(Yes, I tried buying a “swimming cap” or swim snood for him—a soft neoprene wrap that is fastened with a Velcro-like material and covers the dog’s ears, keeping water out; he hated it more than getting water in his ears, and would refuse to walk, much less fetch or swim, when he had it on. Most dogs who love swimming or fetching will accept the snood so they can fetch and swim; not my sensitive boy. While this is a great solution for dogs who get ear infections from swimming, it didn’t work for Woody.)
So, years ago, even though it seemed like I had the perfect dog for that sport, and we live near any number of bodies of water where we could practice, I had to give up on the hope of ever participating with him in dock diving. And honestly, that’s fine; it’s not like I bought a puppy with the express hope of competing in dock-diving events.
But lots of people do buy puppies with the express hope of participating in specific activities, from sports such as agility and Ring Sport, to team-based work such as search and rescue or therapy dog visits. And not all the dogs who are selected for these activities turn out to be suitable candidates for those activities! Then what?
Ideally, those owners are able to pivot and find new activities to share with their dogs, because there is nothing sadder than seeing a dog being coerced to participate in an activity that he doesn’t enjoy. One hopes that a trainer or friend will gently suggest a different sport or activity to the dog’s owner, or that the owner sees the joy leaking out of their dog and gets a clue. But it’s difficult to pull the plug on a big investment of time and training and equipment—and even in the social relationships that sport enthusiasts have made with their fellow competitors! If one of your friends has a dog who is clearly not enjoying the work or sport he’s being asked to do, make sure you offer your friend a lot of support for respecting their dog enough to accept the dog’s preference. A forced performance is just sad to see.
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Regularly brushing your dog’s coat can stimulate healthy oils in the skin and help remove dry skin flakes.
Photo: Lazy_Bear | Getty Images
In my career, it has happened more times than I can count. I’m finishing up with a dog’s wellness exam and the pet parent asks, “By the way, my dog has dry skin. What do you think about it?”
My follow-up question is always, “When did you first notice it?”
More times than not the answer is, “Just now, I mean, I just gave her a bath yesterday and now look at her.”
Some shedding of skin dead skin cells is normal and usually not noticed, but most dogs I see in clinical practice have dry, flaky skin secondary to another condition.
Brush the dog regularly. If the dog’s hair is matted or shedding hair is not brushed out, dry flakes can become trapped close to the skin. Brushing the haircoat with a brush appropriate for your dog’s type of coat can help stimulate the healthy oils in the skin. At first, the dry skin may appear worse than you previously noted, but that’s likely because you have freed up the flakes.
Choose the right shampoo. My pet parent in this scenario said that the dog just received a bath. Dog shampoo can dry the skin, so increasing the time between shampoos, and making sure to use a shampoo appropriate for that dog, can help. For example, if a dog just rolled in something that smells bad, they don’t need a medicated shampoo meant to de-grease the coat. You can also apply a dog-specific conditioner after the shampoo. With both shampoo and conditioner, make sure you follow any label instructions about how long to leave the product on, as contact time is often very important.
Add omega-3 fatty acids to their diet. If you are feeding a diet that already claims to be high in omega-3s, you may want to consult your veterinarian before supplementing further. If you are not using a diet high in omega-3s, use a reputable branded dog product and follow label instructions or consult your veterinarian for dosing if considering a human product.
Encourage your dog to drink water. To encourage good water consumption in dogs, start with making sure there is adequate fresh, clean water available. Change the water daily and clean the bowl. If your pet gets a dry kibble, adding a little water to the kibble or even soaking the kibble so that it absorbs the water can help. Canned food contains a large amount of water, so supplementing with or completely switching to a canned food diet will often result in more overall water consumption. Do not force your dog to drink water. You want to encourage him.
Consider a humidifier. If you’re in an environment of low humidity, which can happen in many homes over the colder months, consider a humidifier for areas where the dog spends most of its time.
Dog’s Dry Skin Is Due to Disease
If your dog’s dry skin is significant enough to cause you to make a veterinary appointment or your veterinarian catches it at a wellness visit, it’s time to look at other scenarios that can cause symptoms that may look like dry skin. It is important to have your dog seen by their veterinarian if the dry skin is more than mild or has been persistent or progressive or the dog has other symptoms. Causes may include:
These are parasites that live on the outside of the dog such as fleas, mites, and lice, which can contribute to the appearance of dry skin because they disrupt normal skin health. In addition, the mite Cheyletiella is sometimes referred to as “the walking dandruff mite” because it can look like dandruff to the naked eye. In my experience, Cheyletiella is most common in puppies (and kittens) from places where large numbers of pets have lived together in poor husbandry. The good news is that most products that kill fleas should kill this mite, so if you pet is on a highly effective flea control product this is not likely to be the cause of your pet’s dry skin.
Bacteria and fungi. These skin infections can cause the appearance of flakes on the skin, although sometimes it is not just scales of dry skin but also crusts that owners mistake as dry skin. In these cases, treating the infection with an appropriate topical and/or systemic therapy will often resolve the skin problem. The caveat is that some of these dogs have an underlying condition that predisposes them to the infection such as allergies or a hormonal condition. In both cases, managing and treating the underlying problem will help decrease incidence of infections.
Hormonal conditions. Low thyroid levels (hypothyroidism) and diabetes mellitus can also cause the appearance of dry skin. In these cases, correcting the hormonal imbalances by providing the missing substance such as levothyroxine in the case of hypothyroidism or insulin in the case of diabetes mellitus will help the skin issues improve or resolve. Hormonal conditions can have negative effects on other aspects of the dog’s health, so it is important to get them diagnosed and treated.
Remember that for dogs with more significant dry skin, itching, or other signs of a change in their health, an appointment for an exam with your veterinarian is in order. It is better to get the dog a medical exam before trying the list above because if the pet has another condition (like diabetes) delaying diagnosis and treatment of that condition could negatively affect your pet’s overall health.
Peas are not dangerous for your dog. They’re also packed with nutrition.
Credit: Deb Cronheim |Getty Images
The question of whether peas and pea protein are bad or good for dogs cannot be answered simply. In moderation and as a part of a balanced formulation, pea protein can be a useful component of dog food, especially when paired with high-quality animal proteins. However, concerns have emerged over formulations that rely too heavily on plant-based proteins, like peas, which may not provide the same biological value or amino acid profile as animal-based proteins. When these plant proteins dominate the ingredient list, especially in grain-free diets, it may indicate a formula that is trying to achieve a high protein percentage without having to invest in expensive animal protein sources.
Peas and the Push for Grain-Free Dog Food
In recent years, peas and legumes have become increasingly common ingredients in commercial dog food, especially as pet owners seek grain-free or high-protein diets for their dogs. Ingredients such as peas, lentils, chickpeas, and beans are now frequently used in place of traditional grains like corn and wheat. They are often marketed as healthier alternatives and are promoted for their protein content. However, their growing prevalence has sparked debate among veterinarians, nutritionists, and dog owners alike as to whether they are a good choice for use in pet food.
Peas Are Good for Dogs
Peas and legumes serve several functions in dog food. They act as sources of dietary fiber, plant-based protein, and essential vitamins and minerals. Whole peas and lentils can contribute to the fiber content of the food, which can promote a healthy gut and helps regulate bowel movements. They also provide plant-derived nutrients such as B vitamins, iron, and magnesium. In grain-free formulations, legumes are often used in a functional role to help maintain texture and consistency of dry kibble, replacing the role traditionally played by grains. For dog owners looking to avoid grains due to allergies or sensitivities, legumes offer a convenient alternative.
Is Pea Protein Bad for Dogs?
One of the most controversial aspects of using legumes in dog food is the inclusion of pea protein. Pea protein is a concentrated protein source often used to boost the total protein content of a food without relying entirely on animal sources. While protein is an essential nutrient for dogs, the quality and animo acid composition of the protein matters significantly.
Animal proteins are considered complete proteins because they contain all the essential amino acids dogs require. Plant proteins, including pea protein, are typically incomplete and may lack one of more essential amino acids and need to be balanced using other ingredients.
The DCM Issue and Peas for Dogs
Another concern that has gained attention in recent years is the potential link between diets high in legumes, particularly grain-free diets using high inclusions of peas and lentils, and canine dilatated cardiomyopathy (DCM). This is a serious heart condition that can lead to heart failure.
The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) began investigating this potential link after receiving reports for DCM in dogs that were not known to be genetically predisposed to the disease but were consuming grain-free diets rich in legumes. While the exact cause has not been definitely identified, the potential role of dietary taurine or amino acid bioavailability due to excessive legume inclusion is being studied.
The inclusion of peas or pea protein in dog food is not inherently dangerous. Many dogs thrive on diets that contain moderate amounts of legumes, especially when these diets are properly balanced with other ingredients. As with many ingredients in pet nutrition, context matters.
Peas and legumes can offer nutritional benefits when used thoughtfully and in moderation. They can contribute protein, fiber, and nutrients to a dog’s diet. Pea protein is not inherently harmful, but it should not serve as the primary or sole source of protein in a dog’s diet. Animal-based proteins remain the gold standard for canine nutrition, providing optimal amino acid profiles and more complete support for a dog’s physiological needs.
While sorbitol is considered safe for dogs, it’s important to read labels of anything you’re buying for your dog to dangerous ingredients like xylitol are not included. Credit: Wera Rodsawang | Getty Images
Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol used as a low-calorie sweetener and humectant in human and pet products. While sorbitol is generally recognized as safe for people and not considered toxic to dogs, excessive amounts can still cause issues for dogs.
Sorbitol, on the other hand, does not cause that same dangerous spike in insulin. For this reason, it is not considered toxic to dogs and does not trigger the same kind of medical emergencies that xylitol does. Small amounts of sorbitol are sometimes used in canine dental products like toothpaste, where it helps create a palatable, gel-like texture.
Dogs Can Have Sorbitol in Moderation
Sorbitol is derived from fruits and vegetables. It is valued for its ability to add sweetness without spiking blood sugar levels and for keeping moisture in products like baked goods. In humans, it is considered safe in moderate amounts, though it may cause gastrointestinal upset if consumed in large quantities due to its laxative effect. But dogs are not small humans, so it is important to evaluate sorbitol based on how it impacts them specifically.
That said, while sorbitol is not considered toxic to dogs, excessive amounts can still cause issues for them. In large quantities, sorbitol can cause digestive upset for dogs, and they may experience bloating, gas, loose stools, or diarrhea. These symptoms are usually not life-threatening but can be both uncomfortable and unpleasant for the dog and the owner. Dogs with sensitive stomachs or pre-existing digestive issues may be more prone to these side effects.
Sorbitol can also be found in some canine medications and chews where it serves a functional role, such as binding tablets or improving taste. In these cases, the amount used is typically very low and unlikely to cause any digestive upset. As with any additive, the context and dose matter, as the saying goes, “The dose makes the poison.” A dog licking a small amount of sorbitol-based toothpaste during brushing is unlikely to experience any digestive upset whereas a dog that snarfs down a bag of sugar-free candies sweetened with sorbitol should expect some gastrointestinal discomfort for a day or two.
Sorbitol Is Not “Bad” for Dogs
Ultimately, sorbitol is not considered bad or dangerous for dogs, however it is also not an ingredient that dogs need or that they benefit from nutritionally. If a product containing sorbitol is specifically formulated for dogs, such as a toothpaste or medication, it is safe when used as directed. However, pet owners should be cautious about giving dogs human products that contain sorbitol, especially in large quantities or on a regular basis.
When in doubt, it is best to stick to dog-specific products and avoid giving your dog anything labeled as “sugar-free” unless you have confirmed that it does not contain xylitol or other harmful ingredients. If your dog has consumed a product containing sorbitol and is showing signs of stomach upset, a sensitive stomach diet and plenty of water are usually enough to help them recover, however contacting your vet is always a good idea should symptoms persist.
From snuffle mats to puzzle toys, there are a lot of good options for at-home canine enrichment. Credit: Jae Thomas
Dog enrichment activities cater to your dog’s natural instincts to sniff, chew, forage, and more. Enrichment is mental exercise for your dog, and while it shouldn’t take the place of physical exercise like walks and running, it’s part of giving your dog a holistically fulfilled life.
Enrichment activities like food puzzles have been proven to reduce stress and increase relaxation behaviors. In addition to being a great way to supplement your dog’s daily routines, enrichment can help keep your pup from getting bored if it’s too hot or too cold to take her out on her normal walk or if your dog has an exercise restriction due to injury or illness. It’s also a fun way to keep puppies and high-energy dogs from becoming destructive during times when you can’t entertain them yourself.
While many things can be considered enrichment for your dog (play, social interaction with people and other dogs, car rides, etc.), we’re going to focus on five dog enrichment ideas that you can do indoors.
Puzzle Toys
When introducing your dog to puzzle toys, it helps to start with something that’s relatively easy to figure out. Move up to more challenging puzzles as the dog begins to figure out the game. Credit: Jae Thomas
Dog puzzle toys offer fun challenges that keeps your dog’s brain working. The simplest puzzle toys, like the Kong Wobbler or the Outward Hound Orbee-Tuff Snoop, just require your dog to push them around to get the food out.
More challenging puzzle toys require your dog to push buttons, pull out drawers, open flaps, nudge sliding pieces, and more. I recommend getting two to three different puzzle toy options and rotating them so your dog doesn’t get bored.
I like the Nina Ottosson Outward Hound line of dog puzzle toys, as they come in multiple levels depending on your dog’s ability. You can start with lower-level toys and try harder ones once your dog gets the hang of them.
If your dog likes to chew or ingest plastic, opt for puzzle toy options that don’t have removable pieces.
Lick Mats and Stuffable Toys
Lickable dog enrichment toys can be a great way to keep a busy dog entertained, but be careful you’re not adding too many calories to her diet. Credit: Jae Thomas
My favorite lickable enrichment dog toys are lick mats, Kongs, West Paw Toppls, and the Woof Pupsicle. All of these options are easy to fill with food, pop in the freezer, and end up with an activity that keeps your dog busy licking for up to an hour.
Licking is a calming behavior for dogs and many of these toys—like Kongs and West Paw Toppls—are relatively durable and chew-resistant. This makes them good options for crate training and leaving with your dog or puppy when you need to leave the house (if your dog isn’t prone to destroying toys).
My favorite way to fill Kongs and Toppls is to soak my dog’s kibble in water for a few hours until soft, then stuff it into the toy. I’ll then top it with a small spoonful of wet food and a treat or two, then freeze the entire thing. This way, you don’t add too many additional calories to your dog’s daily diet, since she’s getting enrichment with her normal allotment of food.
You can use pre-made fillers or even plain peanut butter for lick mats, Kongs, and Toppls, but just be aware of the serving sizes for these options, as you can unintentionally add too many calories to your dog’s diet if given regularly.
For the Woof Pupsicle, I find that the pre-made Pupsicle Pops take my dogs the longest to finish. The brand also as a treat mix that you just add water to and pour in the brand’s Pupsicle treat tray mold before freezing. You can make your own pupsicle refills using the mold if you want to choose your own ingredients.
If you don’t have a lick mat or stuffable toy, you can add water or dog-safe chicken broth to your dog’s food in a normal dog bowl and freeze it. Your dog will get the same enjoyment of licking without having to buy an additional product.
Snuffle Mats and Games
All you really need for a DIY snuffle mat is an old towel and some kibble. Credit: Jae Thomas
Snuffle mats for dogs are an easy way to prolong mealtime and let your dog use their nose. Snuffle mats generally consist of long pieces of fabric attached to a base that make good hiding spots for kibble and other small pieces of food. Your dog will sniff or “snuffle” their way around the mat to find and eat all the hidden food.
If you don’t have a snuffle mat or don’t want to buy one, it’s easy to make DIY dog enrichment toys. Try filling a box with shredded paper and scattering a cup of food in it, stuff toilet paper or paper towel rolls with newspaper and small pieces of food, or simply lay a towel down, sprinkle some treats on it, and roll it up and tie it in a knot. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to enrich your dog through sniffing.
Scent Work-Style Enrichment
Even easier than snuffle mats, scent work-style enrichment includes putting pieces of food in various containers (small boxes or Tupperware containers work well) around your home for your dog to find.
Put your dog in another room or in her crate while you set this game up. Start simple with five or six containers or boxes on the ground in the same room and put a few pieces of food in each of them. Release your dog into the area where the containers are, but don’t say anything or show her the containers. Let her use her nose to find all the treats!
Once you’ve done this a few times, you can start putting food in only some of the containers, add additional containers, and start moving the containers to various places in the room.
This type of activity is the foundation that many instructors use to teach competition scent work, so if your dog enjoys this game, consider getting them into this sniff-centric sport.
Chews
Many dogs find the act of chewing enriching, and simply giving them a high-quality chew bone will keep them entertained. I mainly recommend beef cheek rolls as a long-lasting chew option. They’re an easily digestible rawhide alternative and aren’t as expensive as other dog chews.
If your dog doesn’t like beef cheek rolls, bully sticks or collagen sticks paired with a bully stick holder, like the Woof BullySafe or the Bow Wow Labs Buddy Safety Device, are also good picks.
Never leave your dog unattended with a chew, as they can be choking hazards depending on your dog’s chew style. Opt for giving your dog a chew while hanging out in the same room—that way you can monitor her for any signs of choking while she chews.
If your dog isn’t destructive or eliminating inappropriately when he is left home alone, he likely doesn’t have true separation anxiety. Photo credit: Nancy Kerns
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
There are many degrees of the condition, of course, and some dogs may experience only a little distress when left alone or when without their special person or people, while others may seriously injure themselves or do extensive damage to their environment. So, whether the case is mild or extreme, I support all dog owners in taking all precautions when they get a new dog or puppy to immediately employ a strategy to make sure their new pup learns to be content to be left alone. (This article describes how to put a separation anxiety-prevention protocol into place with a new pup.)
The most important part of teaching a dog or puppy to be left alone is actually doing it! Calmly, deliberately, and incrementally, sure, but it’s critical to actually leave him home alone while you take short (and randomly timed) excursions from home from Day One. The sooner your dog realizes that you often leave but you always come back before he needs you to be back, the better.
I recently attended a social get-together with a number of positive-reinforcement based trainers, and the topic of separation anxiety came up. The question was asked: Post pandemic, are we still seeing a lot of sep-anx cases? I could not stop laughing when one trainer friend described what she was seeing in a number of clients could be better described as FOMO (fear of missing out). “I have a number of owners who are concerned that their dogs are developing separation anxiety,” she said, “but what I am seeing are just dogs with FOMO! They are expressing their desire to go with their owners when they leave; they calm down immediately when they actually find themselves left behind.”
I loved that description, and have seen it myself. My dogs love to come with me every morning when I take my grandson to school, but on days when I have errands or an appointment to go to after dropping off the kid, I leave them home, and FOMO exactly describes their efforts to scramble out the door after I have told them they are staying home, and their sad-sack faces after I have called them back and told them to STAY! Anxious, they are not. They do show signs of serious FOMO—but they can live with that, and so can I.
If your dog swallows a sock or other foreign object, it is important to get in touch with your vet quickly. While dogs may pass such things naturally, it can be deadly if the object causes a blockage or other internal damage. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images
Dogs are famous for eating a wide variety of non-food items, some disgusting—like feces—and some just weird—like Legos, or a ball of twine. Just this year, a 7-month-old Bernese Mountain Dog named Luna was brought to an emergency veterinarian, where x-rays showed a severely dilated stomach filled with not just food, but foreign objects, some of which were lodged in her intestines. Surgery ultimately revealed 24 socks, two hair ties and a scrunchie, a baby’s onesie, a shoe insert, and various pieces of fabric . . . in all, some 44 foreign objects.
Then there’s the case of Woof, who surgeons discovered had devoured five rubber ducks along with a tire from a toy truck. Or the two-year-old pug named Stella who was found to have eaten 104 pennies and one quarter. Or Norris, a 2-month-old rat terrier, who ate his owner’s bra.
Because all these dogs survived, we may get a laugh from such accounts of dogs behaving badly, but there’s nothing funny about a dog in severe gastric distress, or whose intestines are so blocked they’re at the point of rupturing and causing life-threatening intestinal necrosis, perforation, or sepsis.
So, as your dog’s caretaker, would you know what to do if your pup swallowed something she shouldn’t have—like a sock or a ping-pong ball?
The first thing to do is not panic. Stay as calm as possible and even if your dog isn’t showing any signs of distress, call your veterinarian and tell them what you think the dog ate, and how long ago.
NOTE: If your dog swallowed something toxic such as antifreeze, chocolate, rat poison, chemicals, or drugs in any form, or if he’s having difficulty breathing, contact your veterinarian or ASPCA Animal Poison Control (888-426-4435,24 hours a day, 365 days a year) immediately.
Signs That Your Dog Has Ingested a Foreign Object
Sometimes, it’s easy to tell: you actually saw your pup swallow the article. Other times you might find a tipped-over garbage can, a missing sock or pair of underpants, a bottle of medicine that’s no longer where you left it on the counter, or a squeaky toy that’s lacking its squeaker.
Then there are the clinical signs that reveal your dog has eaten something he shouldn’t have. A dog who has a foreign body stuck in his esophagus will exhibit symptoms including excessive drooling, difficulty swallowing, facial pawing, unwillingness to eat, and regurgitation. If the foreign body is already in the dog’s gastrointestinal tract, you may see any of those signs plus extreme lethargy, vomiting, and abdominal pain.
Should You Watch and Wait, or Get Your Dog to the Vet?
If your dog doesn’t appear to be in distress, some vets will recommend waiting and watching, especially if you know that the object swallowed is small and round such as a marble, bead, or button. Oftentimes, these objects will pass through the gastrointestinal tract without doing any damage and will be easily excreted with the dog’s bowel movement. When something is ingested by your dog, it usually takes 10 to 24 hours to move through the entire digestive tract. Some objects, however, can take weeks or even months.
If your dog is suffering any discomfort or you know he’s swallowed a large or potentially harmful object such as a pen, needles, corncob, child’s toy, rocks, or item of clothing, you need to get to the veterinarian right away. If the ingestion occurred within the last two hours, the doctor may be able to induce vomiting. Never induce vomiting yourself without first consulting your vet: many objects and toxins are more dangerous if vomited. If the foreign body has already moved from the stomach into the intestines, or if you know your dog has ingested a toxic substance and is showing clinical signs, vomiting is unlikely to be an effective or safe option. Also, if the object is stuck in the dog’s esophagus rather than its stomach, immediate treatment is essential: complications are more likely when the foreign body has been in contact with the esophageal mucus membranes for a lengthy period.
Diagnosing Foreign Body Ingestion in Dogs
In most cases, the veterinarian will begin with a careful physical examination which includes palpating the dog’s stomach and will likely progress to taking a series of abdominal X-rays to identify the object and pinpoint its location. However, x-rays may be unable to reveal certain types of foreign objects. In that case, your veterinarian may utilize ultrasound if one is available.
Treating Dogs Who Have Swallowed Foreign Objects
Sometimes, esophageal and gastric foreign bodies can be removed using an endoscope, a medical device with a lighted flexible tube attached to forceps or snares to capture the object once the endoscope is inserted through a sedated dog’s mouth. This treatment poses little risk to the dog and is far less invasive and expensive than abdominal surgery.
Some objects, however, are very difficult or impossible to remove from the stomach endoscopically: these include corncobs, large rocks and other heavy objects, large balls, and glue. At that point, the only life-saving option is surgery. The most common procedures involve opening the stomach (gastrotomy) and opening the intestine (enterotomy). If the intestine is perforated or shows necrosis (tissue death), that portion of the gut may need to be removed. Foreign objects such as string or twine pose a special risk, because the string can wind its way into the intestine and slice into the intestinal wall.
Without a doubt, the best prognosis for dogs who have swallowed a foreign object is when the obstruction is removed promptly, regardless of the manner of intervention. Dogs generally recover quickly when they pass the object naturally in their stool, although if the item is large or sharp, pain and damage can occur. Both endoscopic and surgical procedures have generally high rates of success in removal of foreign bodies in the upper gastrointestinal tract. Studies show that endoscopy, the procedure of choice due to its effectiveness and low invasiveness, is associated with a shorter hospitalization time compared to surgical procedures.
Regardless of the treatment strategy, without prompt medical intervention, there is a high risk of bowel wall necrosis, septic peritonitis, and death.
Any growth on your dog’s skin should be considered suspect for cancer until proven otherwise by a veterinarian. Credit: Patcharamai Vutipapornkul | Getty Images
You notice a new lump on your dog’s skin. First, check carefully to be sure it is not a tick. If not, it’s natural to ask if it’s skin cancer. While 80% of skin growths on dogs are benign, often just sebaceous cysts or other innocuous growths, skin cancer does occur. Even if they are skin cancers, many will be benign, and/or treatable with surgery. The sooner you get a diagnosis, the better the prognosis for your dog.
Cancerous growths can vary in color, from black to red to light gray and colors between. They are usually raised and may be irritated. If you see a lump on your dog, take a picture of it and document the discovery with the date and a description of the growth. Any growth, or tumor, needs to be followed-up.
The wisest course of action is to have your veterinarian examine the growth. If it is a cancer, sooner is always better than later in detection. Skin cancer is serious, and time is critical to a cure.
Common Dog Skin Cancers
Mast cell tumors are the most common type of skin cancer in dogs. The initial growths tend to be raised and often round. The primary cells are mast cells, which are known for releasing histamine, a reactive chemical. These growths tend to show up on your dog’s limbs, abdomen, and body wall.
If irritated, such as by you rubbing on it, a mast cell tumor can expand almost before your eyes. It gets red, inflamed, and warm to the touch from the histamine release. Your dog may itch and chew at the growth or show stomach upset (again due to the histamine release).
Mature dogs, say 8 to 10 years of age, are the most commonly affected. Breeds at the highest risk include Boxers, Pugs, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, and Boston Terriers, although any dog can have one.
Surgery can be curative with wide margins, and these cancers are usually susceptible to radiation as well. Mast cells tumors have a nasty habit of recurring, sometimes in new locations.
Growth on a Young Dog
A growth that can appear similar to a mast cell tumor is a histiocytoma or button tumor. These are discrete, round, red tumors that are generally found on young dogs (not to be confused with malignant histiocytosis, a rare but aggressive cancer in dogs). Histiocytomas often appear on ears or the muzzle. With time, many of these will spontaneously regress, but if you are concerned, surgery is curative.
Melanoma in Dogs
Melanomas are another common skin cancer. These growths may or may not be pigmented. They are often located on the nail bed or toes, in the mouth or on the lips. While some are benign, many are not. Surgery is the first line of defense, including toe amputations in some cases. While doing your dog’s body checks, always check between the toes! Schnauzers tend to have a higher risk of this cancer.
Early Detection
Early detection of skin cancer on your dog almost always gives a better prognosis. If you notice a growth, you can track it for one month (or less if it is concerning) but then schedule a veterinary visit. Your veterinarian can often do a needle aspirate to look for potential cancer cells. A biopsy or full removal may be recommended depending on the appearance of the growth. Once a diagnosis is made, a treatment plan can be developed that may include surgical removal of the growth and possibly chemo and/or radiation therapy.
Dogs naturally keep their noses moist through licking, but a periodic dry nose isn’t always cause for concern.
Credit: xxmmxx | Getty Images
Pretty much everyone has heard the saying that your dog’s nose should be cold and wet. But does that mean every dry or cracked nose means the dog is sick? No.
If your dog is in a cool, damp place, his nose will be wet and cool. If he is in a hot, dry place, his nose will tend to be dry. If he is outside on a dry, windy day, his nose will tend to be dry. His nose could even get sunburned!
Most dogs will not lick their noses when they sleep or nap, so when they wake up, their noses are often dry. If the air in your house is dry, your dog’s nose may be dry. If he is outside in dry, cold air, his nose can get chapped just like your lips.
A fever can cause a dry, warm nose, but a dry, warm nose doesn’t necessarily mean he has a fever. If your dog is sick, usually, he will have other signs such as lethargy or a high temperature, but his nose may feel warmer than usual and dry.
A dog who is dehydrated may have a warm, dry nose, but he also probably has a dry mouth, thick saliva (if any saliva), panting, and may even collapse.
Causes of a Dog’s Dry Nose
Older dogs and brachycephalic dogs (short muzzles, short faces) may not keep their noses as damp as they should. This could be simply because they don’t lick as much. It can also be a problem with a younger dog with a normal muzzle.
A dry nose may also be due to nasal keratosis, which is basically an overgrowth of the keratin producing cells. The nose may feel rough and can even have a “shaggy” appearance. The skin on the paw pads may also become thick and cracked. Cocker Spaniels are known for this problem.
Allergies are sometimes blamed for dry nose. Pollen and other irritants may cause some extra keratin.
If your dog has a dry nose, you need to determine if there is an underlying cause such as pemphigus and treat it. A veterinary visit can diagnose it but will require some diagnostics.
If your house is dry, consider adding a humidifier. Always make sure your dog has plenty of clean, fresh water to drink. Wiping on some coconut oil or olive oil can help. Shea butter and aloe vera can help with dry, cracked nose.
Commercial dog balms can be put directly on the dog’s nose. Natural Dog Snout Soother is basically a lip balm for dog noses. Blissful Dog Nose Balm and the original farmer’s friend, Bag Balm, can be used as needed. You should only need to apply any of these once or twice a day. As you put any balm on, immediately offer a treat or two to distract your dog from just licking it right off. Caution: Human lip balms and petroleum jelly may have some ingredients that are not safe for dogs, so it is best to avoid them.
When choosing a dog treat, consider using freeze-dried treats that have a named protein source and, for training, select a soft treat over a crunchy one. Credit: Maria Korneeva | Getty Images
Just as snack foods for humans range from nutritious to unhealthy, dog treats vary wildly in quality and nutritional status. What often looks like a delicious reward can undermine your dog’s health over time. This is why choosing healthy dog treats—and knowing how to use them—is one of the most important, yet also frequently overlooked, aspects of canine nutrition. The good ones don’t come cheap, but they’re worth the money.
So, yes, we are picky about our dog treats. We like freeze-dried treats, but we pay attention to the protein used. We want to know what it is!
Our top choices and favorites in dog treats are, by category, are:
When choosing the healthiest dog treats, pay attention to the protein source used. Named proteins, like turkey, duck, lamb, or salmon, are far preferable to ambiguous labels such as meal meals or byproducts. High-quality proteins offer amino acids to help maintain your dog’s muscles, coat, and immune system. Just as important is what is not present in a treat. Avoid ingredients like artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives.
Calories Matter in Dog Treats
Calorie content is crucial in dog treats. Whenever you are giving treats, the amount you are feeding is key. Too much of anything can be harmful, and healthy treats can absolutely be given in unhealthy amounts. Even treats that offer ample health benefits can contribute to weight gain if overfed. Many pet owners are surprised to learn how quickly calories from treats can add up, particularly for small breeds or for dogs with low activity levels.
A general rule of thumb is the amount of treats fed should not exceed 10% of your dog’s daily calorie requirement, else you risk creating imbalances in the diet. For a small dog eating around 400 calories per day, that’s just 40 calories in treats, meaning even a few extras can tip the scale. When looking at treats, consider size and density. While large, dense chews may seem satisfying, they often deliver far more calories than expected. In contrast, small, low-calorie treats allow for more frequent rewards without overfeeding.
Best Treats for Dog Training
For training, small, strong-smelling, and easily consumed treats are essential. Dogs need quick rewards that hold their attention and don’t interrupt the pace of the session. The healthiest versions of these use natural flavorings and keep ingredients minimal while still offering a tempting aroma. For training, you want high-value, tasty dog treats that the dog really wants to work for! When training, soft treats are considered a better choice over crunchy pieces that take longer to chew.
For puppies or dogs undergoing training where I know I will be using a lot of rewards, I use a complete and balanced diet food as treats in the form of kibble or freeze-dried to avoid creating gaps in nutrition.
Best Daily Dog Treats
For casual settings, like daily bonding, walks, or enrichment time, treats can afford to be a little more substantial. Freeze-dried meat treats are a great option, as they are typically made from a single ingredient, such as beef liver, chicken breast, or salmon. These treats are rich in protein, packed with natural flavor, and have the added benefit of being shelf-stable without artificial preservatives, plus they keep pockets relatively clean.
Functional Dog Treats
Functional dog treats bridge the gap between supplements and treats. They aim to go beyond taste to provide a direct health benefit. These may include ingredients designed to support joint health, improve digestion, or enhance skin and coat quality:
Others may include probiotics or prebiotic fibers like inulin to support healthy gut flora, which in turn can improve digestion and gut health.
When choosing functional treats, it’s especially important to research the brand and ensure claims are backed by quality ingredients and research rather than just clever marketing language.
Make Your Own Dog Treats
An often-overlooked option for pet owners is homemade dog treats. Preparing your own treats allows for complete control over the ingredients, which is ideal for dogs with allergies or sensitivities. Simple recipes made from ingredients like peanut butter (without xylitol), pure pumpkin, banana, oats, and eggs can yield soft or crunchy treats that dogs love. Even fruits and vegetables like apples, blueberries, carrots, and green beans can double as a healthy, low-calorie snack. For training, boiled chicken or beef with a trace amount of garlic for a strong aroma is a good option.
Dog Treats Should Fit the Dog
What is important to recognize is that the definition of “best” varies from dog to dog. What works for a high-energy working dog may not suit a couch-loving senior. Age, breed, activity level, and health status all influence the ideal type of treat. For example, a puppy might benefit from a higher calorie, DHA-rich training treat to support brain development, while a senior dog may need low-fat treats that also support joint mobility.
Similarly, a toy breed might need tiny, low-calorie rewards to prevent weight gain, while a large, active dog can enjoy slightly more substantial snacks without issue. Even with high-quality treats, moderation and balance remain key. Over feeding of treats, no matter how healthy, can disrupt the nutritional balance of your dog’s main meals.
Incorporating healthy treats into your dog’s routine is one of the simplest and most effective ways to support their overall well-being while also enhancing the bond you share with your pet. Whether you are rewarding good behavior, reinforcing training, or simply showing affection, choosing treats made with wholesome, natural ingredients ensures that every bite contributes to your dog’s health rather than compromising it.
From single-ingredient snacks to functional treats with added benefits, the right options can promote better digestion, a shinier coat, and stronger joints. Ultimately, healthy dog treats are more than just tasty rewards, they are an extension of mindful care and a small but powerful part of helping your dog live a longer, happier life.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
