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What NOT to Say to Shelter and Rescue Workers

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
The lobby of an animal shelter crowded with people.
The lobby at shelters can be a very crowded and highly charged environment, as often-emotional people are bringing in stray animals (who may be hurt, sick, and/or starving), others are trying to surrender animals, others are retrieve their impounded animals, and others are trying to happily adopt animals. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Whenever I spend any time at my local animal shelter as a volunteer, I am filled with empathy and admiration for the people who work at the front desk. The drama they witness! The tragedies they must deal with! The hostility they have to endure at times!

All day, every day, front-desk shelter workers are confronted with people who are sad and upset and/or angry and frustrated. Perhaps most frequently, they deal with people who are upset about having to pay money to retrieve their dogs, whether the dog had been brought into the shelter by a member of the public who saved the dog from trotting down the middle of a busy road, or had been picked up by an animal control officer from the yard of a citizen whose cat had been killed by the dog. Fees are charged for holding dogs, and for a lack of proof of rabies vaccination and/or licensing, and these fees are deliberately set at higher rates for intact animals (both as a lever to encourage people to spay/neuter their pets, and to help address the cost of the puppies that often result from the adventures of intact dogs who have gone astray).

All I can say is, if my dog had been running at large and someone caught him and brought him to the shelter, I’d be thrilled that he had been apprehended and removed from all the potential dangers of the streets. But if my dog had been what the shelter calls a “frequent flier” – constantly escaping and getting caught running at large – I could see how those fines would be upsetting. But the fines are not set by the front-counter staff, and it’s not their fault that the dog got out!

As daunting as it may be to deal with people who are angry when retrieving their animals, I think that it may be even more stressful for front-counter workers at the shelter to deal with people who are trying to rid themselves of unwanted dogs and/or puppies.

Don’t get me wrong; there are plenty of valid and very sad reasons that can cause people to surrender dogs to the shelter – and I’ve seen how kind the intake staff can be at those times.

But it’s the people who either lie and try to pass off their own dogs or puppies as strays that someone else “dumped” on their property, or who are hostile and combative when staffers ask for a surrender fee for taking the unwanted dogs or pups that I would find most challenging. These folks don’t care that the shelter spends an average of $300 per animal on vaccinations, medications for sick animals, flea-control products, dewormers, a microchip, and spay/neuter surgery – they are often pissed when asked to fork over half of that cost as a surrender fee.

I was present at the shelter one day when I saw a woman storm out of the lobby into the parking lot screaming over her shoulder, “F*** you! This is your job! Just do your damn jobs!” When I asked my friend at the front counter what made the woman so mad, he shrugged and said, “We told her that we couldn’t take her dogs today – the shelter is 100% full – and she just hit the roof. We told her we could call her back when we have room, but she wanted to surrender three dogs right now!” The shelter workers can offer other alternatives or ideas to people who are in a bind with animals that they can’t keep, but they are somewhat unmotivated to do so when someone is screaming at them for their failure to immediately solve a problem of that other person’s creation.

Many times at the shelter, I have thought, “I could never work here! I’d never be able to keep calm with some of the people the shelter staffers have to deal with!” But I don’t say that to my friends at the shelter – and I hope you don’t tell your friends in rescue or shelter anything like that, either. Because what we really mean when we say things like that – and what I do tell my friends at the shelter is, “I so admire and appreciate your work here. It looks very difficult, and you handle it with grace and grit. Thank you!”

Can Dogs Drink Oat Milk?

By
Jessica Peralta
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Adorable, pretty puppy and handsome man preparing a healthy breakfast. Closeup, indoors. Day light, studio photo. Concept of care pet and healthy, delicious food
Many dogs like oats, making homemade oat milk a healthy treat. Credit: Sviatlana Barchan | Getty Images

Oat milk can be good for dogs. It’s a lactose-free dairy alternative for humans that dogs also can enjoy, but in moderation.

Oat milk without additives has fewer calories, fat, and protein per serving than regular whole milk and can be nutritious treat for your dog. Start slowly, though, and check with your vet first if your dog has any health conditions like diabetes or special needs.

Oat Milk for Dogs

Diana Laverdure-Dunetz, a vegan canine nutritionist in Florida, recommends serving your dog homemade oat milk made from only two ingredients: organic, certified gluten-free oats and water.

That means the best oat milk for your dog is homemade. Commercial oat milk products may contain ingredients that are unsafe or unhealthy for dogs, like added sugars, preservatives, flavors, oils, and thickeners. Recipes are abundant online, and it’s a fairly simple process.

“Oat milk contains a type of soluble fiber called beta-glucans, which offers many health benefits, including stimulating the immune system, protecting against infectious diseases, fighting cancer, and helping stabilize blood sugar levels. Soluble fiber also offers a variety of gastrointestinal benefits, including controlling large bowel diarrhea and promoting a healthy gut microbiome. Oats also contain antioxidant compounds that protect cells from oxidation and are a good source of many vitamins and minerals.”

Problems With Oat Milk for Dogs

Obviously, dogs with a food intolerance to oats should not have oat milk. Laverdure-Dunetz also says oat milk should never be given to puppies because they should rely on their mother’s milk. Also, since oat milk contains fiber, too much may cause gastrointestinal upset in some dogs.

Susan Blake Davis, a California-based pet nutritionist adds that some dogs may have difficulty digesting plant-based milk alternatives and have gastrointestinal upset, although this reaction could be due to the grain content, vegetables oils, or gums added to commercial oat milk.

How to Serve

Davis says the sweet taste and texture of oat milk may make it useful for administering liquid supplements or medication. Used like this and, depending upon the size of the dog, a 1/2 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon might work.

Laverdure-Dunetz says there are no studies on upper safety limits of oat milk for dogs, but oat milk should be viewed as a treat, so should not comprise more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calories.

Fun with Oat Milk for Dogs

You can integrate homemade oat milk into your dog’s diet by creating a dog-friendly smoothie with oat milk, kale, and blueberries, or freeze it in ice cube trays for a delicious hot-weather treat. You can even substitute it for cow’s milk in your dog’s favorite home-baked treats or whip up a batch of fluffy oat milk “puppy pancakes.”

Supplies for Dog Grooming at Home

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
A mature woman is standing behind a bench with a dog sitting on a towel on the bench. She is grooming the dog.
For smaller dogs, especially, it’s easier to groom your dog when he’s on a higher surface, however, be sure that it’s a non-slip surface or place a non-slip mat under him. Some shower mats work well for this. Credit: Marianne Purdie | Getty Images

Dog grooming at home is not difficult, but you do need the right grooming supplies. Besides dog nail trimming tools and a good dog grooming scissor kit to trim hair on the feet, face, and body as needed, you need a brush that is appropriate for your dog’s coat.  If you truly enjoy dog grooming at home – and are good at it – you may want to consider becoming a professional. The American Academy of Pet Grooming or the National Dog Groomers Association of America can you help you get started.

Basic Grooming Supplies for Dog Home Grooming

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Dog nail trimming tools include nail clippers and nail grinders. Use whichever you and your dog like best, or a combination of both. For ideal nail management, trim a little bit of the claw each week. One of my favorite and best nail clippers are Miller’s Forge Designer Series Nail Scissors.

Brushing should be done on a regular basis to remove dead hair and keep your dog’s coat free of tangles. How often depends a bit on your dog. A short-haired dog like a Doberman might be OK with weekly grooming, but a long-haired dog like a Sheltie often require daily grooming. It’s far easier and quicker to groom your dog more often.

A Tip for Grooming Anxious Dogs at Home

Tip: If your dog is anxious about grooming, start “grooming” with just your hand, placing your dog wherever you plan to do the actual grooming, such as on a safe table, the floor, or your lap. Let him get used to that before introducing any tools.

Other tools that you may find useful:

  • Dog blow dryer that uses cool air
  • Spray bottle to mist coat when brushing (reduces static)
  • Electric clippers for trimming
  • Shedding tools

Grooming Supplies for Short-Haired Dogs

Short-haired dogs are generally wash and wear. For dogs with a thicker coat, like a Labrador, rakes and slicker brushes are useful for removing loose hair. For dogs with a thin coat, like a Greyhound, opt for a dog grooming mitt with rubber bristles that you can use to rub your dog’s body and gently remove dead hair.

Grooming Supplies for Long-Haired Dogs

If your dog has a thick or long coat, you may need multiple brushes to manage it. Pin brushes and slickers work well for a quick “fluff and puff,” but the powerhouses are rakes and combs.

A rake with wide tines can get through dense undercoat to pull out dead hair. Then follow up with a comb to get all the way down to the skin and detangle as needed.

Tip: Mist your dog with water or a conditioning spray before brushing to reduce static and protect the hair from breakage.

Grooming shears are helpful to trim the long hair on your dog’s feet, or you can use electric clippers. If using shears, opt for a pair with blunt tips to reduce the risk of poking your dog’s skin.

If you have a Poodle, Cocker Spaniel, Shih Tzu, or other breed or mix whose hair grows a lot, it may be worth investing in a good set of electric clippers and clipper guards to shave and trim your dog’s hair at home. Note: Don’t shave your dog’s entire coat, unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian.

Groomers to the Rescue

Unsure of where to start? Contact professional groomers in your area – as your veterinarian for suggestions or check bulletin boards at local pet stores – and ask if they would be willing to teach you how to manage your dog’s coat. You will need to pay for the appointment, of course, but it is well worth it to see what tools work well for your dog’s coat type and what strategies you can use at home.

Plus, your dog will leave looking fabulous, so you start your grooming odyssey with a clean slate.

If you are nervous about certain aspects of your dog’s grooming needs, try a hybrid approach. Do maintenance coat care at home so that grooming appointments can be less often and/or less intensive.

Dog Papillomas: Viral Warts

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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2
Communal water bowls are one the most common ways for dog papillomas to spread.
Dog papillomas, aka viral warts, are contagious and can be spread through shared items, like bowls. However, a break in the skin is necessary for the virus to get a hold. Credit: Deb Parry | Getty Images

Dog papillomas are warts. These are benign little growths that are usually pink or pale in color with a cauliflower-like surface, although they can be smooth. When they are caused by a virus, they are called viral papillomas. When they occur in the mouth, they are called oral papillomas. Some warts, like the ones that develop on older dogs in random places, are not necessarily caused by a virus. These are called idiopathic non-viral papillomas or squamous papillomas.

Viral dog papillomas are contagious from dog to dog. With the dawn of dog parks and doggy day care veterinarians are seeing more cases of viral dog papillomas, especially oral papillomas in dogs. The most common papilloma virus, CPV1, is spread by direct contact with an infected dog or by sharing toys, bowls, and bedding. They are one of the reasons communal water bowls for dogs should be avoided. A break in the skin or oral mucosa is required for successful transmission. The incubation period (time from exposure to onset of symptoms) is one to two months.

Puppy Warts

Viral papillomas are most common in young dogs (under 2 years of age) and usually occur in groups or clusters in the mouth or on the muzzle, lips, eyelids and between the toes. These puppy warts are rarely a problem, most cases are mild and self-resolve within two months, which means that as long as the warts are not painful to your dog and don’t become infected, no treatment is required. Just remember they are contagious, so keep your dog away from other dogs while you wait for resolution.

Dog Papilloma Treatment

If the viral papillomas are still there after three months, treatment should be considered. Surgical removal or cryotherapy (freezing them off) are usually the treatments of choice. Other treatments that have been tried with varying success include a topical medication called imiquinod (helps the immune system fight the virus), interferon-alpha (another immune-modulating medication), azithromycin (an antibiotic that has been shown to help in some cases), cimetidine (a stomach acid-reducing medication which has shown some promise as a papilloma treatment), and, most recently, a medication called tigilanol tiglate (marketed as an injectable treatment for mast cell tumors but some suggestion it may be useful in a topical gel form for viral papilloma treatment). Torigen is a pharmaceutical company in Farmington, CT, specializing in immunotherapy for pets. They can make a vaccine for your dog using cells from your dog’s own papillomas.

Lastly, there is some thought that simply crushing one or two of the warts may help stimulate a bigger natural immune response by the dog’s body. Don’t try this yourself, however. See your veterinarian who will guide you toward the best papilloma treatment choices for you and your dog.

Dog Treadmill Choices

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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German pinscher running on special animal treadmill in dog fitness club
Introduce your dog gradually to using a treadmill. The best choice is a treadmill made for dogs, like this one, but smaller dogs can often use human treadmills. Credit: eAlisa | Getty Images

Working on a dog treadmill can be great exercise for your dog when a long walk just isn’t possible, such as during the winter months. The key is to introduce your dog to the treadmill slowly. For your dog’s safety on the treadmill, be sure the belt is long enough for your dog’s stride.

Choosing a Dog Treadmill

Small dogs can use a human treadmill, but larger dogs often have a stride much longer than ours. For these large dogs, a doggy treadmill made for dogs is a better choice.

Dog training treadmill choices include:

Training a Dog on Treadmill

Start treadmill dog training slowly and make it positive. You want your dog to be comfortable with the treadmill and relaxed so she can have safe and productive exercise.

  1. Practice getting on and off the stationary treadmill. Give your dog treats for getting on the treadmill, and lure her on and off it from any direction. This teaches her how to safely get off if she gets tired or stressed later.
  2. Turn the treadmill on low and feed treats next to it. This helps your dog associate positive things with the sound of the moving belt.
  3. Encourage your dog to touch the moving belt. At first, reward if she touches one paw to the belt. Gradually work up to getting on the moving belt and immediately getting off in a controlled fashion.
  4. Gradually increase the amount of time your dog stays and walks on the moving belt. Feed multiple treats to reward her, but let her get off if she gets nervous.
  5. Once your dog is comfortable walking on the treadmill, gradually increase the speed.

Treadmill Dog Training Tips

  • Use praise and treats so your dog thinks the treadmill is fun.
  • Work up to a natural trotting pace for optimal exercise.
  • Start with short sessions a couple times a day, increasing duration over time.
  • For overweight dogs, short but frequent sessions are better than a single long session.
  • Never tie your dog to the treadmill, as this can become dangerous.
  • Never force your dog to get on the treadmill.
  • Always supervise treadmill sessions.

How Does a Dog Get Pneumonia?

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Small yellow dog laying down in his bed with star pattern
A dog battling pneumonia will likely be lethargic with no energy and little interest in normal activities. Credit: Kerkez | Getty Images

Pneumonia is inflammation of the lungs, usually caused by infection, resulting in the accumulation of fluid in the air sacs (alveoli) of the lungs. Certain things predispose a dog to pneumonia. Immune-compromised dogs, or dogs on immune-suppressive drugs, are more likely to succumb. Dogs fighting severe diseases like cancer are more prone to pneumonia. Dogs with neurological disorders, especially those that effect swallowing, are prone to aspiration pneumonia. Recumbent dogs who can no longer stand or walk without assistance are at greater risk of developing pneumonia.

Symptoms of Pneumonia in Dogs

Signs of pneumonia in dogs include:

  • Loss of appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Trouble breathing
  • Rapid breathing
  • Cough
  • Weakness
  • Fever
  • Bluish-colored gums and tongue (cyanosis)
  • Possible nasal discharge
  • Possible weight loss

Causes of pneumonia in dogs include:

  • Infectious agents (bacterial, viral, fungal, parasitic)
  • Aspiration (food, liquid, regurgitated stomach contents)
  • Inhalation (smoke, chemical agents)

Things that predispose a dog to aspiration pneumonia include:

  • Brachycephalic breeds
  • Vomiting
  • Sedation
  • Anesthetic procedures involving endotracheal intubation
  • Larynx diseases like laryngeal paralysis
  • Esophageal neuromuscular diseases
  • Force feeding or forcing liquids
  • Gaseous distension of the stomach or “bloat”

Treating Pneumonia in Dogs

Treatment for pneumonia varies according to cause and severity, but almost always includes antibiotics.  How long to treat a dog with pneumonia is not set in stone. Some believe dogs should be treated for four to six weeks. Others start with two weeks and decide whether longer treatment is needed based on follow-up chest X-rays and bloodwork.

How long it takes a dog to get over pneumonia varies depending on the dog’s general health, nutritional status, and age. Older dogs or immune-compromised dogs generally take longer to fully recover, perhaps even months. Younger, otherwise healthy dogs generally recover more quickly, over the course of a couple of weeks.

Lenticular Sclerosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Old english cocker spaniels dog, close-up
As your dog ages, you may notice a bluish haze in his eyes. This is called lenticular sclerosis and is a normal part of aging. However, a veterinarian needs to make the diagnosis and rule out cataracts, which do require treatment. Credit: Elizabeth Fernandezn| Getty Images

Lenticular sclerosis in dogs, also known as nuclear sclerosis, is a normal aging change in the dog’s lenses that results in that bluish haze you see in your senior dogs’ eyes. It is not painful, and it will never make your dog blind. The important thing is to distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts, which is a whole different ballgame. That’s why you should have your veterinarian examine your dog if you’re starting to notice this bluish haze.

Dog’s Normal Aging Eye

Lenticular sclerosis happens in pretty much every dog as they age. There’s really no escaping it. The lens is a dynamic structure made up of fibers within a capsule. Over time, old fibers degenerate and new fibers are laid down. Because the fibers are encased in a firm capsule and have nowhere to go, the older more central fibers get compressed, making them denser and less transparent. This is what creates that bluish haze, which usually affects both eyes equally. Fortunately, lenticular/nuclear sclerosis will never make your dog blind, although he or she will likely not see subtle things like your facial expressions as clearly and will likely not navigate as confidently in low-light situations.

Diagnosis Is Important

With the help of special light source instruments, your veterinarian can distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts. This is important, as cataracts will progress to blindness and are best addressed early in their progression. Cataracts, as opposed to the benign lenticular sclerosis, can cause secondary, painful diseases in the eye like uveitis and glaucoma. Careful monitoring of dogs with cataracts is recommended, and your veterinarian may recommend a surgical consult with a veterinary ophthalmic specialist. Early surgical removal of cataracts prevents secondary issues and preserves vision for your dog.

If you’re noticing a bluish haze in your aging dog’s eyes, but he does not seem to be having any trouble seeing, the eyes appear otherwise normal, and your dog is acting otherwise fine, there is no need to panic. There is a high likelihood this is simply the lenticular sclerosis expected with age. Still, you need to see your veterinarian to confirm and rule out the less benign situation that is cataracts.

What is the Best Puppy Shot Schedule?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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two female vets preparing a labrador retriever puppy for vaccination
Taking your puppy to the veterinarian for shots is a necessity. These vaccinations protect your puppy from potentially deadly diseases like the parvo virus and rabies. Credit: fotografixx | Getty Images

Your puppy’s vaccinations can run from $100 to $200 or more, depending on where you live, your veterinarian’s policies, and which vaccines your puppy needs. A puppy shot schedule is usually based on advice from the American Animal Hospital Association, which breaks vaccines for dogs into two categories: core and non-core. Core vaccines should be given to every puppy. These include distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus (also known as hepatitis), and rabies.

Non-core vaccines are sometimes called lifestyle vaccines and may be recommended depending on where you live and what activities your puppy will be doing throughout her life. These include Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme disease, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and canine flu.

Most vaccines need to be given at least twice, two to four weeks apart, to fully protect your puppy. The distemper/parvo combo vaccine should be given at least three times between 6 and 16 weeks of age. The rabies and Bordetella vaccines only need to be given once.

Here is a sample vaccine schedule:

Puppy Shot Schedules by Age

AgeCore VaccinesLifestyle Vaccines
8 Weeks1st DAPP (distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, +/- parainfluenza)
12 Weeks2nd DAPP, RabiesLeptospirosis #1, Canine Influenza #1, Lyme #1 (as recommended by veterinarian
16 Weeks3rd DAPPLeptospirosis #2, Canine Influenza #2, Bordetella , Lyme #2 (as recommended)
Annual or Three YearsDAPP, RabiesLeptospirosis, Canine Influenza, Bordetella , Lyme (as recommended)

The exact puppy shot schedule used for your puppy will vary depending on:

  • Your puppy’s age
  • What vaccines the breeder or rescue have already given
  • Your puppy’s unique needs
  • Your availability and preferences
  • Your veterinarian’s preferences

Should Puppy Shots Be Given All at Once?

For most healthy puppies, it is safe to give multiple vaccines at the same time. Your puppy may be tired after her appointment as her immune system processes the vaccines, but she will be back to her normal puppy antics the next day. This is generally the most economical and efficient method of vaccination.

Separating the vaccines and only giving one at a time minimizes the strain on your puppy’s immune system. The safety factor is that, when given one at a time, if your puppy has a vaccine reaction, you will know exactly which vaccine she had trouble with. (Vaccine reactions are rare.)

How Much Do Puppy Shots Cost?

Your puppy’s vaccinations can run from $100 to $200 or more, depending on where you live, your veterinarian’s policies, and which vaccines your puppy needs.

If you choose to give each vaccine on its own, it will increase the number of trips to the vet and will likely increase your overall cost. Each visit will incur a fee for either the veterinarian to examine your pet or a veterinary technician to give the vaccine. Office visits typically cost between $20 and $150, depending on where you live and whether your puppy will be seen by a vet or a technician.

If you have cost concerns, talk to your veterinarian and make a plan that works for you and your puppy on your first visit. Some facilities prefer for all puppy vaccines to be given by a veterinarian, so they can observe your puppy as she grows and note any early health problems. Others are fine with a technician giving vaccines after the initial exam. Many clinics offer lower exam fees for puppies, and tech appointments are usually the least expensive.

You can also focus on the core vaccines now, so that your puppy is protected from these serious diseases and wait to add noncore vaccines later.

Puppy Shot Costs

Average Puppy Shot Prices – Core Vaccines

Vaccine

Cost Per Dose
Rabies$15 - $30
DAPP$20 - $60

Average Puppy Shot Prices – Lifestyle

Vaccine

Cost Per Dose
Bordetella (Kennel Cough)$20 - $45
Lyme Disease$30 - $65
Leptospirosis$20 - $45
Canine Influenza$30-$60

Does My Puppy Need All These Vaccines?

Rabies: YES!

The rabies vaccine is required by law in most states. This disease is extremely dangerous and 99.9% fatal in dogs, humans, and other mammals. The cost is generally low, around $15-30.

Distemper/Parvo/Adenovirus (DAP): YES!

These three diseases are highly contagious and can be fatal. There is no treatment, and hospitalization for supportive care is often needed. All puppies should receive the vaccine series for distemper, parvo, and adenovirus.

Leptospirosis: Yes

Leptospirosis, or “lepto,” is a bacterial disease spread in the urine of infected animals. Historically dogs who hike and hunt in the woods were most at risk, but we are starting to see cases in city dogs too as it can be spread by rats. Because of this increased prevalence, the leptospirosis vaccine may be appropriate for all dogs. The vaccine protects against the most dangerous variants of the disease.

Lyme: Maybe

Lyme disease is a bacterial disease spread by ticks. It is most common in the northeastern U.S., and dogs who spend time in woods and fields are most at risk.

Bordetella: Maybe

Bordetella, also called kennel cough, is highly contagious. Dogs who spend time with many other dogs, such as at dog shows, dog parks, doggie daycare, or shelters are most at risk. Most dogs recover on their own, but puppies, senior dogs, and those with chronic illnesses may have more severe symptoms.

Canine Flu: Maybe

Like Bordetella, the are highly contagious and usually spread in areas with many dogs mingling together. If your dog goes to dog shows, dog parks, or doggie daycare, she may benefit from the canine flu vaccine.

Reducing Woody’s Weight

By
Nancy Kerns
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24
Two dogs amidst brown grass of winter field.
Eight-year-old Woody (right) isn’t super fat, but because he’s often so physically exuberant, especially when playing with 2-year-old Boone (left), I worry that carrying excess weight could contribute to him tearing an ACL or something. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I have a reputation among my friends and family for telling people that their dogs are overweight – so it may come as a surprise that I have been struggling for a few months to reduce my dog Woody’s weight. He turned 8 years old in November, and it was about that time that I first noticed he was looking a little pudgy. Viewed from above, he still has an indented waist, but he’s just thicker everywhere than he used to be. A recent trip to the vet and a formal weigh-in confirmed what I already knew but had been in denial about: He weighs too much!  I need to get about 8 pounds off of his now-80-pound body.

Recently, I switched his food to a couple of lower-fat, lower-calorie products, and I’ve cut back the amount I am feeding him. I’m also making an effort to get us out for more walks (I have been struggling with weight gain, too!). I’ve also been pointedly using smaller treats for training and reinforcing his recalls and other good-manners behaviors on walks. But his weight has been staying stubbornly the same.

And, like many owners, I’ve noticed that my dieting dog is becoming increasingly food-obsessed. He clearly feels hungrier on the smaller portions.

My latest idea is to switch both dogs (Woody and Boone, whose weight is ideal) to once-a-day feeding, which has enabled me to cut their total daily portion size much more dramatically while increasing the size of the one meal per day they are eating. We’ve been at this trial for a week so far, and I must say, both dogs are taking the switch to the new regimen very well; they aren’t making a nuisance of themselves at their former dinnertime.

There is some evidence for the benefits of once-a-day feeding; I just hadn’t tried it before, as (again, like most owners), I enjoy feeding my dogs a meal when the family eats. And I should note that the study that provided information about those benefits also noted that because some of the dogs in the study may have been fed once a day for varying lengths of time, the researchers “cannot rule out the possibility that dog owners shifted to more frequent feeding in response to health conditions, and observed associations are due in whole or part to reverse causality.”

Nevertheless, given the mountains of evidence for the benefits of intermittent fasting in humans, I’m going to maintain this schedule for at least a few months – and try to increase our exercise, too – and see if it helps me get some of those excess pounds off of my darling Woody.

If you’ve managed to reduce your dog’s weight to a healthier one, how did you do it? Share your dog-diet tips!

Why Do Dogs Howl?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
A husky howls in Alaska, United States, North America
Dogs howl to communicate. It could be due to excitement, pain, or simply responding to another howl (or siren!). Credit: John Elk | Getty Images

Why do dogs howl? Howling is just one of the many ways that dogs communicate. Some dogs only howl in short bursts once in a while, while others sing their wolf song loud and proud.

Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

Dog Sniffing Food But Not Eating

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
A man offers a Boston terrier a tasty treat while the dog avoids looking at the food.
Man feeding his dog in kitchen

If your dog is always a picky, slow eater, and he goes on strike for a meal or two, there is usually nothing urgent to be worried about – but do mention this to your veterinarian at your dog’s next wellness examination. The pickiness may indicate a chronic problem that will improve with treatment, such as a cracked tooth or a mild case of acid reflux.

If, in contrast, your dog normally has a good appetite, but suddenly stops eating his food, you should be concerned – and even more so if you dog has any other signs of illness, such as lethargy, panting, fever, signs of pain or discomfort, or diarrhea. In that case, get him to a vet! Any time our dogs change their normal behavior, there is likely something wrong that needs investigation. Ignoring early symptoms usually costs us, and our dogs.

Potential causes of a lack of appetite

There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat:

  • Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.
  • Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food.
  • Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain.
  • Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.
  • If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Do not add flavor enhancers or human meal leftovers to tempt him into eating the food he rejected, because if it turns out that the food is dangerous, he may be harmed by eating it! Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem. If your dog eagerly accepts the new food, take the rejected food back to the store!
  • Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.

Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.

If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.

Dog Training for Kids and Other Beginners

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0
12 years old girl in backyard at home teaching her black labrador puppy to sit on command. Stay a home. Weekend activities
Gorgeous! This young girl is using beautifully crisp body language to cue her puppy, and is ready with a treat in her other hand as a reward. Teaching your children to use clear, consistent cues and quickly marking and rewarding the resulting behavior will help your dog learn the expected behaviors very quickly. Photo by Stefan Cristian Cioata, Getty Images.

It makes good sense to have your offspring participate in your dog’s training program. After all, the kids and dogs in the household often spend the most time together. The level of your children’s participation in your dog’s training program will vary based on the age and abilities of the children. But even a toddler can hand feed a treat (or toss it on the floor if your dog takes treats too eagerly or with a hard mouth) when you mark your dog’s correct behavior in response to a cue, and the most dog-obsessed kids may even be able to do some of the training themselves under your direct supervision. Older children can do the training by themselves after they’ve been instructed by you or your trainer and you are confident that they are capable of doing it correctly.

Initial ground rules: Respecting the dog

I’m a huge fan of enlisting kids to help with the dog’s training at the earliest possible age, using positive reinforcement-based methods that teach children the importance of cooperation and respect. This interaction also strengthens the positive association between your dog and your child. Before you engage your child to assist with your dog’s training, however, they need to learn how to respect and interact appropriately with dogs (and other sentient creatures). It’s vitally important to teach children four important safety rules:

    1. Dogs are not toys to be treated roughly or with anger.
    2. Dogs have the right to keep their own possessions. Do not take bones, toys, or blankets away.
    3. Dogs are not to be bothered when they are eating.
    4. If the dog “asks” them to stop doing something (with body language such as stiffening, moving away, or growling), they must stop immediately.

If followed, these rules should keep your children and dog safe (because a dog who hurts a child in self-defense is likely to be surrendered or euthanized). If a child is too young to grasp these rules, the supervising adult must physically prevent the child from being inappropriate. For more about kid/dog safety, see “Kids and Dogs,” WDJ August 2019.

A side view of a young girl playing in the garden with her pet british bulldog.
If your dog or puppy shows any sign of being uncomfortable with your child’s handling, like this Bulldog puppy is displaying (ears held back, worried expression, running away from chasing child), intervene on your dog’s behalf. Kids need to know that it is unsafe to pursue or restrain a dog who is trying to get away from their interaction.

First Training Step: Practice Known Behaviors

If your dog has already learned some behaviors, start with those. Teach your child the verbal cue for an easy behavior like “sit” (and the hand signal if the dog knows one) and then show her how to get the dog to respond. Although your dog may perform the behavior reliably for you, he may be a bit confused when the cue comes from a child. If that’s the case you can prompt or lure the behavior after your child gives the cue, and then teach her how to prompt or lure if appropriate (if she is old enough and capable).

 

Introducing your child to your dog’s known “sit” behavior might look something like this:

    1. Tell your child what cue she will be using – in this case, “Sit!”
    2. Explain that when the dog sits, the behavior gets marked and he gets a treat (depending on the child’s age and capabilities you may use a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word, “Yes!”). Be sure to explain that you have to give a treat when you mark, so the marker must only be used when the dog has done what you’ve asked. If you’re using a clicker, and your youngster delights in running around the house clicking, you may need to put the clicker away when you’re not actively training!
    3. Have your child practice marking and then giving a treat to an imaginary dog (or a stuffed one!) before asking her to try it with your live dog. (If your dog is grabby for treats, have your child drop the treat on the floor.)
    4. Demonstrate (a few times) the sequence with your dog: Cue the sit, mark when he sits, and feed the treat – preferably moving the treat quickly to his lips so he is still sitting when he eats it. Demonstrate also how to prompt or lure if he doesn’t sit when you ask him to.
    5. If your child is old enough to be physically capable, have her practice the sequence. If she’s not old enough, keep giving the cues and marking and have your child feed or toss the treats, letting her participate more and more as she is able. The next step might be having her click the clicker or say “Yes!” after you’ve cued the dog and he sat.
    6. Eventually show your child how to practice all the behaviors your dog already knows. I recommend creating a vocabulary list of all your dog’s known cues and posting them on the refrigerator for all family members who are participating in the training program to refer to so cue usage is consistent.
Caucasian boy training dog in grass
Worried about getting bitten (or maybe just covered with slobber), many children are tentative about giving treats to a dog or puppy, and may inadvertently draw the dog out of their cued position by holding the treat too far from the dog’s lips. Teach kids how to put the treat right onto the dog’s lips or have them toss the treat to the dog (the latter technique is recommended if the dog really is too eager when taking treats). Photo by Steve Smith, Getty Images

Teach New Behaviors

Older kids can certainly play a leading role in teaching new behaviors to the family dog, but even the younger ones can participate in the process. How much depends, of course, on both the child and the dog, but all ages of children can take pride in knowing they have taught the dog something new.

The process for teaching new behaviors is similar. Here’s how you might show your child how to teach a new “down” behavior:

    1. Explain what cue you will be using (“Down!” – or…?), what you want the behavior to look like (dog is lying all the way down on the ground), and how you plan to help the dog understand what you want him to do (whether luring, capturing, or shaping…). Discuss “lure-shaping” – where you use a treat to get the dog to do small pieces of the behavior, encouraging him to lower his front end, marking and treating as you go, gradually getting closer and closer to the final behavior. For more about lure-shaping see “Fun Dog Training Techniques Using Shaping,” WDJ Feb 2006.)
    2. Demonstrate the process, starting with the dog sitting. Put the treat in front of his nose lower it a little bit, mark and treat as he follows it.
    3. Repeat, gradually lowering the treat closer to the ground with multiple repetitions. (For a step-by-step tutorial, see “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”) Depending on your dog’s level of cooperation and your child’s abilities, you may be able to have her take over after a few repetitions of the demonstration with you continuing to coach, or you may need to continue participating more fully in the process. That’s your judgment call.
    4. Now, expand your dog’s repertoire. Let your child help decide what new behaviors they want to help teach – and be sure to include tricks! Tricks are fun for all and are guaranteed to help strengthen the dog-child bond.

Also, be sure to show your young ones how to incorporate training into every day activities, using real-life rewards when appropriate. “Sit and I’ll throw the ball for you.” “Sit and we can play tug.” “Lie down and I’ll open the door for you to go out in the back yard.” “Sit and I’ll put your food bowl down.”

Supervise!

Children offer a puppy within a tug toy to chew and pull on.
If your kids find your puppy or dog to be too physically exuberant to feel comfortable playing or training, try using “protected contact” – having them interact while the dog is safely restrained by a baby gate, puppy pen, leash, or tether. Photo by Kathy Callahan

Young children should, of course, always be supervised when they are in the presence of the family dog. “Supervision” means not just being in the same room, it means also having eyes and mind on the dog-kid combination at all times. You constantly make sure the child is appropriate with the dog, and constantly watch and interpret the dog’s body language to make sure he is comfortable with the child. This iron rule is especially unbendable when the dog and child are actively engaged with each other – for example, if the child is playing with or training the dog. Not only do you want to be sure that the child is safe, you also want to be sure the dog is enjoying the interaction and the training is being successful.

While older children don’t need the constant close scrutiny that young children do, you still want to be sure the training is going well and being done correctly. Check in with the dog-kid combination on a regular basis to reassure yourself that your learners are enjoying themselves and that training progress is happening.

So – how old is “younger” and how old is “older”? It is suggested that children aged 6 and under require constant close supervision, ages 7 to 12 are more capable of being dog-appropriate with less supervision, and 13 and up are generally mature enough to be trusted with the dog. Of course, each child is an individual and you’ll need to make your own judgment calls for your own offspring, but I would urge you to err on the side of caution. It’s far better to over-supervise than under-supervise.

Protected Contact

You might consider using “protected contact” in your training program with your dog and young child. The concept of protected contact is widely used in zoos, where animal care attendants keep a safety barrier between themselves and dangerous animals who might injure them – or worse. You can do the same with a child who might be overwhelmed or inadvertently injured by an over-exuberant canine subject. You could have your child work with the dog on a tether, inside an exercise pen or the other side of a baby gate. It can also be helpful to make sure your dog is well exercised before engaging in a training session with a young child. Too much enthusiasm on the part of the canine learner can damage the dog-child relationship – which is the exact opposite of the goal we are trying to achieve.

You Might Be Surprised

Obviously, older children will tend to catch on more quickly and be able to participate more fully in your dog’s training than very young children. But don’t sell your little ones short – some young children can be surprisingly adept at learning and applying training skills. Our trainers are frequently impressed by how well some of their junior students do in their dog training classes – often better than the adults! Do remember to keep it fun – the goal is to strengthen the bond – and that’s most likely to happen if all species involved are enjoying themselves.

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