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The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts
Watching your dog eat poop can leave you distressed, and, frankly, disgusted. However, while grotesque to us, eating feces isn’t unusual. The reasons run across a spectrum of possibilities, including instincts, anxiety, boredom, and poor training.
Some dogs love sitting out in the cold, while others would rather be bundled up during the colder months. You may want to opt for one of the best dog jackets for winter if your pup is one of the latter.
Read on for the best dog winter coats and jackets, hands-on tested by Whole Dog Journal.
Not all dogs need winter coats. Double-coated breeds like Huskies, Malamutes, and Samoyeds are well-suited to cold winter weather. Breeds like these with thick coats would likely overheat with the addition of a winter jacket and are often perfectly happy sitting in the snow or hanging out in the cold.
However, the following types of dogs can benefit from a winter jacket to stay warm in cooler weather:
Fit and comfort: A dog winter jacket should be snug enough that it retains your dog’s body heat and keeps them warm but loose enough to allow correct range of motion. Ideally, the front of a dog jacket should be cut high enough to allow your dog to extend their front legs. Any straps or buckles that help keep the jacket in place should be loose enough or placed in a way to not cause discomfort. There should be enough sizes that the jacket is comfortable on both small dogs and large breeds.
Insulation: Dog jacket insulation is getting better and better with each passing year. Outdoor-focused dog brands are using high-quality insulation in their dog coats (some even using materials like Primaloft, found in human insulated jackets). Many brands also supply measurements for the amount of insulation in each jacket, so you can see which options are warmer than others.
However, just because a jacket offers a ton of insulation doesn’t mean it’s the best for your dog. If your dog is using a jacket during active pursuits like hiking or jogging, they may overheat with a coat that’s too insulated. On the flip side, if your dog is only going for short walks and they’re prone to shivering, a dog coat with more insulation may be a better choice. The best winter jacket for your dog will depend on their activity level, the average climate in your area, and how cold your dog gets.
Waterproofing: Whether you want a dog jacket with waterproofing or water resistance will depend on the area you live in and what other kind of dog gear you have. If you already have a dog raincoat, you may not need a waterproof dog coat. However, if it rains and snows frequently in the winter and you still want to be able to take your dog out on walks, a waterproof insulated dog jacket is the way to go.
Bonus features: Holes for harnesses, built-in harnesses, reflectivity, and handy stuff sacks for storage are among the fun extra features you might find in one of the best dog jackets for winter.
Read on for the best dog winter coats we tested.
| Whole Dog Journal Rating | Product and Maker | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
 | Non-stop Dogwear Glacier Jacket 3.0 | $119.99 | With waterproofing ratings, breathability ratings, and high-quality Primaloft insulation, the specs on this dog coat would be impressive on a human coat. It comes in14 different sizes and has one of the most non-restrictive fits of any of the dog jackets we tested. |
| Ruffwear Overcoat Fuse Insulated Vest | $99.99 | This option is a harness and insulated dog jacket in one and durable enough for outdoor adventures, rain or shine. |
| Ruffwear Climate Changer Fleece Jacket | $69.99 | This mid-layer is a great choice for camping, hiking, and more mild fall and early spring weather. It’s comfortable, moves with your dog’s body, and adds just the right amount of warmth. |
 | Hurtta Extreme Warmer III Dog & Cat Snowsuit | Starting at $105.95 | If you live in an area where the temperature regularly drops into the negatives, the Hurtta Extreme Warmer III is the warmest dog winter jacket on this list. It has reflective lining, a thermal “hood” that keeps cold air out and covers your dog’s neck and ears, and a comfortable, ergonomic fit. |
| Ruffwear Powder Hound Waterpoof Insulated Coverall | $139.99 | Snow dogs, this one’s for you. If you have a pup who likes to frolic in the snow but gets too cold, this full-body snowsuit will repel snow while keeping your best buddy warm. It features sleeves and a full chest and belly panel to lock in heat and lock out snow and moisture. |
| Frisco Mid-Heavyweight Love Insulated Dog & Cat Coat | Starting at $15.99 | This budget-friendly option is surprisingly thick and warm for the price. It’s best suited for low-impact activities like quick potty breaks and short cold-weather walks. |
The Non-stop Dogwear Glacier Jacket 3.0 is a human-quality jacket—but for dogs. This jacket is one of the most technical on the market: It features Primaloft Black insulation, a 20,000mm waterproofing rating, and a 20,000 g/m2/24hrs breathability rating.
A 20,000mm waterproofing rating is akin to top-performing human raincoats, and will keep your dog dry in heavy, prolonged downpours, wet snow, and high-intensity activities. The breathability rating means that 20,000 grams of water vapor can pass through a one-square-meter section of the fabric over 24 hours. This means the fabric of this coat allows sweat to escape while also keeping moisture out, which will keep your dog dry and comfortable even during demanding activities like alpine hiking, skijoring, or canicross.
This jacket is warm, but thanks to the breathability of the material, it’s not so warm that your dog will overheat, provided you’re using it during cold weather. It also features a leash portal, so it’s compatible with harnesses.
This dog winter coat has a comfortable and customizable fit (it has multiple cinches to adjust to your dog’s body), and it comes in 14 different sizes, so it fits extra small breeds all the way up to giant breeds.
The Frisco Mid-Heavyweight Love Insulated Dog & Cat Coat is surprisingly warm for the low price. It features a fleece lining as well as polyester insulation and would be a great choice for pups who just need to stay warm on short walks or potty breaks. It doesn’t have a harness portal, so it’s best suited for dogs who typically walk on a collar and leash.
I’ve found that most of the budget-friendly dog coats don’t have great mobility in the front and this one is no exception. The thick cut at the front of your dog’s shoulder allows for extra warmth but doesn’t allow for full range of motion in the front. It also runs a little small, so sizing up will help with this issue. This coat is best suited for short outings in cold weather—choose a more ergonomically-designed jacket if you’re planning on using it for running, hiking, or long winter walks.
I’ve had a version of the Ruffwear Climate Changer Fleece Jacket for years, and just recently upgraded to the newest model. This dog fleece has been my go-to for fall/winter camping trips and dry-weather winter hiking.
My Border Collie mix, Miso, has a short, single coat and tends to get chilly when stationary during the colder months. This fleece offers her the perfect amount of warmth on hikes so that she doesn’t overheat but still stays comfortable when we stop for a break or for lunch. I also put this jacket on her as an extra layer in addition to her dog sleeping bag when we camp during the fall and early spring.
The Climate Chnager is harness compatible and features a harness hole that you can run a leash through.
The Hurtta Extreme Warmer III Dog & Cat Snowsuit is the jacket I pull out when we have temperatures in the negatives here in Colorado in the winter. The best part of this jacket is that the inside is reflective, so it reflects all your dog’s body heat back onto them, in addition to retaining it via insulation. It comes in nine different sizes, so you can find a custom fit for your pup, and it features reflective elements, a soft, comfortable material, and elastic cinches that allow you to adjust the back length, neck, and shoulder fit.
This jacket also features a high neck that provides extra warmth and protects your dog’s head from snow and rain. This is one of the only hoods on a jacket that my dogs tolerate, since it sits snugly against their heads instead of hanging down low over their eyes. This dog jacket also comes with a harness hole.
If you have a dog who’s very sensitive to the cold and snow and could use extra warmth, the Ruffwear Powder Hound Waterproof Insulated Coverall is a good option. This full-body, harness-compatible dog snowsuit has four sleeves in addition to the insulated body, so small dogs and thin-haired dogs stay toasty when playing in the snow. It features a waterproof rating of 10,000mm and has 250g of polyester insulation in it.
Because it’s a full-body snowsuit, the sizing matters more than an option without legs, so double check your dog’s measurements before ordering. It’s helpful to size up if your dog is between sizes so you have enough back length to keep their rear end warm and the rear leg sleeves fit properly.
If you normally walk your dog on a harness, but don’t love the idea of layering multiple pieces of gear, the Ruffwear Overcoat Fuse Insulated Vest solves that problem. This insulated dog jacket features a built-in harness and is ideal for dogs who are active outdoors. It features front and back attachment points, an abrasion and weather-resistant outer material, fleece lining, reflective piping, and 120g of polyester insulation for warmth.
A dog winter jacket should be snug enough that it retains your dog’s body heat and keeps them warm but still allows correct range of motion. The best dog winter jackets feature high cut shoulders to give your dog full range of motion while walking, running, and hiking. You should be able to slide at least two fingers under any straps or buckles used to keep the coat on your dog.
Don’t rely on weight or breed recommendations for dog jackets. The best way to ensure a dog jacket will fit your dog is to use a soft measuring tape to measure the base of their neck, the deepest part of their chest, and the length of their back from their withers (shoulders) to the base of their tail.
Sniffing is how dogs read the world, and Jae explains that a good sniffing session is real mental stimulation: a dog works to process the scents, and its breathing picks up, so there’s a little physical workout in it too. Licking does something different. The repetitive motion is calming and helps release feel-good endorphins, which makes a lick mat a useful way to bring a high-energy dog down before a nap or bedtime.
A snuffle mat is a piece of fabric with lots of folds or pockets where you hide dry food, so the dog has to forage it out with its nose. A lick mat has a textured surface you spread wet or sticky food across, like canned food or peanut butter, so the dog has to work it out of the nooks and crannies. Lick mats can also be frozen to stretch the time even further, which helps dogs that inhale their meals.
For snuffle mats, Jae looks for plenty of hiding spots (ideally enough to hold a whole meal, not just a few treats), durable construction without small rippable pieces that could be a choking hazard for shredders, and machine washability so cleanup is easy. For lick mats, she says dishwasher safe matters even more, since food gets stuck in the fine texture and the mats need cleaning between uses, especially with raw food.
She points to a couple of shaggy, high-pile snuffle mats she rates for keeping dogs busy, including a large one that occupies her dog for 20 to 30 minutes, and to a budget silicone lick mat she’s used for years alongside a softer one made for anxious or easily frustrated dogs. She also keeps suction-cup lick mats on hand for bath time and grooming. The specific brands she names are in the video.
Snuffle mats work with regular kibble or dry treats; lick mats are for softened kibble, wet or raw food, peanut butter, or yogurt. To avoid overfeeding, Jae’s simplest rule is to use the dog’s own meals for enrichment, or to trim the next meal a little if she’s added something extra.
Snuffle mats and lick mats are an easy way to give your dog mental work and a calmer evening using food you already have. Watch the full interview above for Jae’s specific picks and how she uses each one.
When it’s clear that someone in the room passed gas—and especially if it’s a strong odor—it’s a standard joke to blame the dog. And sometimes it truly IS the dog. While any dog can occasionally pass gas, if it is a frequent occurrence you might want to investigate the situation, especially if there’s also diarrhea. Frequent gas with diarrhea or gas that seems to appear suddenly in the dog are both signals to schedule a veterinary visit.
My daughter’s lovely Belgian Tervuren would literally clear a room at times with her flatulence. It took some research, but eventually the culprit was found: potato! Researching to find a potato-free diet took some time, but once changed over, she was gas-free. It also meant, however, that if she had a gastrointestinal upset, mashed potatoes were not an option.
My daughter’s dog was not an isolated incident. Dogs with food sensitivities can create some noxious gas due to interactions in their intestinal tract. Overweight dogs and dogs who don’t get enough exercise may also pass extra gas.
Brachycephalic dogs, like Pugs, Bulldogs, and Boxers, tend to gulp in extra air when they breathe. Once it goes in, that air must go back out and, as it travels the gastrointestinal tract, it picks up noxious odors. The same scenario with extra air intake can occur with dogs that are fast eaters and gulp their food. There isn’t much you can do about your brachycephalic dog, since the cause is part of their anatomy. You can check to see if he is rapidly wolfing down his food, however, and if he is, consider implementing a remedy to slow his food intake.
Dogs who do eat in no-time-flat can be slowed down. You can try one of the many slow feeders on the market. It will take some experimentation to see which one works for your dog, but these bowls do work.
Some people find success by adding some clean large rocks to the food dish, but you need to be certain the rocks are big enough that your dog won’t swallow one by mistake.
A snuffle mat works well for dry food because your dog needs to hunt for the kibble, not gobble it all down in a few bites. Most dogs enjoy snuffle mats.
If you have several dogs, sometimes just separating dogs for meals will help, as submissive dogs may feel the urge to eat fast and the dominant dogs may try to eat as quickly as possible to get another dog’s dinner.
Overweight dogs: Dogs who are overweight and do not get enough exercise need a weight-loss diet and an exercise plan. Remember, slow but sure is the way to go with both. Adding fiber to the diet may help, but it can add to the problem for some dogs. Trying some plain canned pumpkin is worth it, though, as it is an easy fix if it works. Remember: You want plain canned pumpkin without any additives.
Food sensitivities: While the potato sensitivity we mentioned above was a little odd, it’s a lesson that means you may need to do an elimination diet.
Many dogs can’t dairy. If that’s your dog, it means no more yogurt or ice cream treats. Cheese can be a factor as well (many of us use string cheese to train with!). The upside is that dairy products are obvious and reasonably easy to work around. Other ingredients may take more sleuthing and some major diet adjustments.
Hopefully, if your dog has a food sensitivity you can quickly identify it. Keep note of any unusual or extra treats that precede a gas attack. Then try to avoid the offending ingredient.
Consider probiotics: Probiotics help some dogs. Forti Flora from Purina and Royal Canin’s Probiotic have worked well in my experience.
Figuring what’s causing your dog’s gas takes determination and attention to detail. But, with any luck, you can figure out at least part of the why behind your dog’s gas and arrange to avoid the inciting factors.
And, as we stated at the start, consider a veterinary check if your dog also has diarrhea or any other symptoms.
Wet or dry is one of the most common dog food questions, and the honest answer isn’t one or the other. It depends on your dog, and on a few things worth knowing before you shop.
In our new video, companion animal nutritionist Dr. Mary Cope, PhD, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:
A snuffle mat or a lick mat can turn a cup of kibble into 20 minutes of quiet, and give a restless dog something better to do than pester you.
In our new video, certified dog trainer Jae Thomas talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:
Most dog lovers think raised back hair is a sign of aggression. That is not necessarily the case. The context of the environment as well as the dog’s body language and micro facial expressions must be taken into consideration to determine what is happening when it comes to raised hackles.
This nervous-system response, technically called “piloerection,” can also be caused by excitement, stress, fear, and even curiosity. Of course, it also happens when a dog feels defensive, which is where the typical expectation comes from.
Dogs do involuntarily experience piloerection when feeling defensive. It’s an autonomic response that creates the illusion of looking bigger, the body’s attempt to appear more threatening to adequately defend oneself against a threat, whether perceived or actual.
Because of that involuntary and often defensive response, seeing one’s dog with their hair standing up on end can be worrisome to the average dog person. What must be considered, however, is the whole picture.
The most common reasons that a dog may have their hackles raised include:
The bottom line is that it’s crucial to look at the context so that you can make a better determination of the reason behind your dog’s hair suddenly standing up. Knowing your own individual dog and learning to recognize their typical body-language signals—including raised hair on their backs—will help you make better decisions on whether you remove them from the situation or not.
If you are truly dealing with aggression issues in your dog, seek out the help of a competent dog trainer and talk with your veterinarian about possible medication.
If your dog is easily becomes afraid, this may mean you should work more on her socialization skills by getting her out for walks in different places and maybe taking her into a store that allows dogs. Again, the help of a dog trainer who is educated in dealing with these types of dogs will be money well spent.
Vaccines are one of the few things every dog owner deals with, and one of the topics owners ask about most. Which shots does a dog actually need? How often? And what if your dog had a bad reaction last time?
Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor put those questions to veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, a 1988 graduate of Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine who now practices in Syracuse, New York.
Core vaccines are recommended for every dog, whatever the dog’s lifestyle. For years that meant distemper-parvo and rabies. Dr. Fatcheric explains that leptospirosis has now joined the core list, and why: lepto is a bacterial disease spread through wildlife urine, and it can pass from dogs to people.
Other vaccines depend on where your dog goes and what it does. The Lyme vaccine makes sense for dogs exposed to ticks in long grass or wooded areas, alongside tick prevention. Kennel cough (Bordetella) is for dogs who spend time indoors with other dogs at groomers, daycare, or boarding. Canine influenza is becoming more common for dogs who travel.
Puppies typically start the distemper-parvo series at 6 to 8 weeks and get a booster every 3 to 4 weeks until at least 16 weeks old. Dr. Fatcheric explains how antibodies from the mother’s milk interfere with early vaccines, and why the repeat doses are designed to cover the gap. She also warns owners against keeping puppies locked away until the series is done, since that is the prime window for socialization.
Lepto, Lyme, kennel cough, and influenza are generally boosted every year. Rabies is good for one year after the first shot, then typically three years after the booster, though rules vary by state. Distemper-parvo is commonly given every three years after the first annual booster.
For owners who want to avoid unnecessary shots, a titer test measures a dog’s antibody level to distemper and parvo. Dr. Fatcheric explains what the results mean and the main argument against relying on them.
She also covers the situations where she would delay or avoid a vaccine: a past anaphylactic reaction, milder reactions that can be managed with pretreatment, and dogs with immune-mediated disease. For dogs who can’t be vaccinated, she talks through how to reduce exposure risk, and what to expect with rabies laws.
Every dog’s needs are a little different. Watch the full interview above, then bring your questions to your own veterinarian.
Like you, your dog probably stretches—and keeps stretching—throughout the day. She might stretch first thing in the morning, or bow low, paws wide with a wagging tail and wide eyes when she’s ready to play.
In general, dogs stretch for a variety of reasons, which usually fall into four main categories:
While not all stretches serve the same purpose, most of the time, stretching is a normal part of your dog’s life, says Ali Smith, a Maryland-based dog trainer and behavioral consultant. “Dogs have just spent time resting, so stretching helps wake up the muscles and get everything moving again. It’s no different than us stretching when we get out of bed in the morning. You’ll often see a big stretch and a good yawn after a nap, or just before heading out for a walk when excitement levels start to rise.”
A dog’s play bow is a variation of a stretch. While a play bow also features a dog lowering her front end while keeping her rear end elevated, it is typically accompanied by a wagging tail, loose body language, and direct eye contact. It acts as a clear signal to other dogs—and humans—that whatever happens next is intended to be fun.
How do you tell the difference?
“This is one of my favorite questions because they look remarkably similar. The important part is context,” says Smith. She says that a functional stretch is generally about the dog’s own body. Once finished, the dog simply moves on with her day. “A play bow is communication.”
Beyond loosening muscles or signaling playtime, stretching can also serve as an emotional release. Rather than addressing a physical need, a stretch can act as a displacement behavior when a dog is processing excitement, mild frustration, or environmental changes.
“Dogs have lots of little reset behaviors that we humans tend to be ignorant of,” says Smith. “They shake off after something exciting, yawn when they’re conflicted, sniff the ground when they’re unsure, and stretching can fit into that same category.”
“I often see dogs stretch during training if they’re feeling overwhelmed coupled with a yawn, or after working through something challenging. It doesn’t necessarily mean they’re distressed. It can simply be their way of releasing a bit of tension before carrying on.”
Beyond behavioral resets, stretching can be sign of pain. Distinguishing between an aging dog warming up stiff joints and a dog in acute pain, for example, can be tricky, but veterinary science uses body language as a critical diagnostic tool.
To help veterinarians and dog owners evaluate discomfort, institutions like Colorado State University and the University of Glasgow developed objective canine pain scales. These frameworks analyze specific postural shifts—such as rigid stretching, arched backs, and abdominal guarding—as primary indicators of moderate to severe pain.
The key is to know the difference between a normal play bow and what veterinarians call the prayer position. In medical terms, it’s referred to as a visceral pain stance. In the prayer position, a dog lowers her chest and front legs to the ground while keeping her rear elevated. It’s like a play bow but is rigid and without any playful body language.
While most stretches are innocuous, a stretch can sometimes signal acute stiffness or severe internal distress. As your dog’s primary caregiver, it’s up to you to distinguish between an aging dog warming up stiff joints and a dog in medical trouble.
According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, clinical signs that may suggest the presence of abdominal pain or discomfort include the prayer position where a dog lowers his chest and forelegs close to the floor while keeping his hindquarters elevated. Dogs instinctively assume this posture because extending the abdomen helps relieve pressure on inflamed internal organs, such as the stomach or pancreas.
Common medical causes for the prayer position include:
As normal as a stretch usually is, a sudden shift in frequency or posture can be red flags. You should seek veterinary assessment if you notice:
“If the stretching is new, excessive, or accompanied by changes in appetite, energy levels, movement, vomiting, diarrhea, or signs that the dog seems uncomfortable, that’s where I’d stop thinking behavior and encourage a veterinary assessment,” Smith says. “Pain can look like a behavior problem before it looks like a medical one.”
While it’s important to know your dog’s habits and routines, so you can note changes, stretching, on its own, is usually just stretching. As Smith says, dogs aren’t always secretly communicating complex messages every time they do something normal.
We’re talking about mild diarrhea in your dog in this article. If your dog has bloody diarrhea, is also vomiting, won’t eat or drink, or has had diarrhea more than 24 to 48 hours, it is not a mild case of diarrhea. You need to contact your veterinarian.
Most dog owners follow whatever vaccine schedule their vet hands them. Knowing why each shot is on that list makes it a lot easier to ask the right questions.
In our new video interview, veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:
Catching your dog sleeping on their back may make you do a double take. It’s a somewhat alarming pooch position because it looks so similar to the “play dead” pose: belly up, paws relaxed, legs in the air, not a care in the world.
You might think, “Is my dog OK?”
Once you’re relieved to see he’s still breathing, even snoring away, you may begin to ponder: Why does my dog sleep on his back? Is it normal for dogs to sleep on their back? It’s definitely one of the more unusual, yet somewhat hilarious-looking, dog sleep positions.
Turns out that snoozing upside down is a pretty normal pup sleeping position. But what does it mean, and should you ever worry about it?
One of the main reasons a dog sleeps belly up is to cool down.
“For a lot of dogs, it can help with temperature regulation,” says Lori Teller, a veterinarian and clinical professor at Texas A&M University. “There’s less hair on their belly, so when they are flipped over, it allows more air exposure to their skin; sometimes you’ll see it when it’s been warm out and they’re in a nice, cool, air-conditioned space.”
Sometimes a dog sleeping on his back signals they’re comfortable, relaxed, and secure.
“The dog feels safe enough to expose the most vulnerable part of their body, so it means the dog is mentally and physically comfortable,” Dr. Teller says. “Dogs that are anxious or on alert about something do not expose their belly. Owners should recognize that dogs are very comfortable when they’re exposing their belly in their presence.”
But if your dog doesn’t sleep on their back, don’t be offended.
“Some dogs may not sleep on their backs; this does not mean that they don’t trust you,” Dr. Teller says. “The body conformation of some dogs may make it uncomfortable to sleep on their backs. We all have preferences for the position we sleep in and this is true of dogs as well.”
A dog’s sleeping position may vary depending on where they’re napping, the room temperature, what feels comfortable that day, and their age. But sometimes a dog’s sleeping position has a deeper meaning you should watch for.
While most of the time you don’t have to worry about the meaning of a dog sleeping on their back, if your dog has never slept on their back and suddenly starts, or stops, it’s worth keeping an eye on, especially if your dog is older.
“Does it look like the dog is having a hard time finding a comfortable position because of a joint issue or pain somewhere? Is the dog looking for a position that helps relieve some of that pain? That may warrant an exam with your veterinarian and a second look,” Dr. Teller says.
The reverse is also true; if your dog used to sleep on their back and stops (or changes their usual sleeping position), that could signal they’ve developed a condition that causes pain or discomfort.
Besides potential orthopedic issues, also watch for respiratory changes.
“If the dog is restless, panting, they may shift positions a lot, looking for a position that is more comfortable for them to breathe,” Dr. Teller says. “This is not super common, but if this is a dog who has never done this, and this is a new behavior, and you see breathing changes, then it’s definitely worth an exam and a chat with your veterinarian.”
Just like humans, your dog needs beauty rest; in fact, dogs typically need more sleep than people do and you can help them stay comfy while they snooze.
Your dog may be better suited to chill out in a cooler room, especially if they have a heavy coat. (Here’s how to identify your dog’s coat type.) Dogs with double and triple coats like Huskies, Chow Chows, and Samoyeds likely prefer you have air conditioning, but fans can also help.
“You can get a fan and put it on low,” Dr. Teller says. “Make sure it’s in a safe area where the dog can’t stick their nose into the blades, trip over it, or chew wires.”
Hairless pups or those with light, thin coats, like Chihuahuas, Greyhounds, and Boxers, may sleep more soundly at a slightly higher temperature.
Watch your dog’s sleeping position and body language for signs they’re comfortable.
“A lot of this will be individual dog-dependent,” Dr. Teller says. “If humans tend to like it cooler in the house than the dog, and your dog is shivering, then certainly you can put a sweater or something on your dog.”
Once you’ve mastered the perfect temperature in your house for you and your woofer, it’s time to think about your dog’s bed.
Your pooch will thrive in one that’s nice and comfy, especially if your dog lives with mobility issues. Pet supply companies and retailers now make and carry a vast array of orthopedic and specialty dog beds.
“Your dog may find the orthopedic foam beds to be more comfortable if they have arthritis or another painful condition,” Dr. Teller says. “For those living in particularly warm climates, they also make some beds that have cooling features, just like they make the mattresses for us. These may help some dogs sleep more comfortably as well.”
If you live in a chilly climate, The Whole Dog Journal also checked out an assortment of warming beds.
Though seeing your dog sleeping on their back with their legs up might be surprising at first, that sleeping position could signal love and trust in you—but don’t be insulted if your dog doesn’t sleep on their back.
Your dog’s favorite sleeping positions may change day to day and over their lifetime. What matters is whether the position is new for your dog and whether you notice other changes. Does your dog moan or groan as they lie down or get back up? Do they seem stiff? Or like they can’t find a comfortable position?
What matters most is what’s typical for your dog.
It’s up to pet parents to decide whether their dog is just enjoying life or could use a bit of help, especially as they get older—and, of course, so they don’t take a header off the couch because they’re sleeping on their backs and are so relaxed!
Otherwise, let those bellies show, and watch those legs and paws defy gravity.
