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The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts
Let’s face it—dog warts are unsightly. They look like a tiny stalk of pink, white, beige, blue, or black cauliflower growing from your dog’s lips, gums, tongue, or paw pads. Warts seem to suddenly appear without warning, like mushrooms growing on your lawn.
Over-the-counter (OTC) antihistamines for dogs include diphenhydramine (Benadryl), loratadine (Claritin), and cetirizine (Zyrtec). These three medications can provide relief from dog allergy symptoms and may be the only treatment needed for some lucky dogs. Other dogs may still need prescription medications to treat their allergies long term.
Environmental allergies, or atopy, can be as miserable for dogs as they are for humans. But humans get runny eyes and sneezing fits and dogs itch. Remember: Fleas cause your dog to itch, too, so be sure you check for a flea infestation, which will need a flea treatment.
Dog allergy symptoms include:
Allergies cannot be cured and will require lifelong management. Some dogs only require treatment during specific times of year, but others may need treatment year-round.
If your dog is itchy and scratchy, and you are sure you are dealing with an allergy, you may decide to your own medicine cabinet for home remedies for dog allergies. The three primary antihistamines used by humans with allergies are also safe for dogs. For many dogs, these medications will not be able to control allergy symptoms alone, but they can provide some relief until you are able to get a vet appointment. These medications may play a role in long-term management.
NOTE: Always check the inactive ingredients on any product for xylitol or birch sugar. This artificial sweetener may be added to human medications, but xylitol is extremely toxic to dogs.
Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) is safe for dogs and a solid first option to try. The Benadryl dosage for dogs is 1 milligram (m) per pound, meaning a 50-pound dog will get 50 mg. Diphenhydramine is usually available in 25 mg tablets, so this dog would get two tablets. Benadryl is usually given twice a day and can make dogs sleepy.
Benadryl is also available as a liquid, which can be easier to dose for small dogs.
Loratadine (Claritin) is safe for dogs and only needs to be given once a day. The dosage for dogs is 1 mg per four pounds, meaning a 50-pound dog will get 12.5mg. Loratadine is usually available in 10 mg tablets, so this dog would get one tablet. To get your dog’s dose, divide his weight by four. Then divide that by 10 to get the number of tablets.
Cetirizine (Zyrtec) is safe to give your dog and is given twice a day. The Zyrtec for dogs dosage is 1 to 2 mg per four pounds, meaning a 50-pound dog will get 12.5 to 25mg. Zyrtec is usually available in 10 mg tablets, so this dog would get one to two tablets. It is generally best to start with the lower dose. To get your dog’s dose, divide his weight by four. Then divide that by 10 to get the number of tablets.
Over-the-counter antihistamines are generally well-tolerated by dogs, but side effects are possible. Things to watch for are drowsiness, sedation, poor appetite, vomiting, or diarrhea.
If your dog seems sick after taking any medication, call your vet.
Allergies are not emergencies, but we strongly recommend scheduling a veterinary appointment sooner than later. OTC antihistamines may help in mild cases, but there are more robust prescription options available that may provide your dog better relief. Your veterinarian can also make sure that your dog’s allergy meds don’t conflict with any other medications or supplements he may be taking.
You’ve done your research, visited the shelter, fallen in love, and now you’re bringing home a second dog. Or your friend is coming to stay with their new dog for the weekend. Or your neighbor wants to go on a dog walk together for the first time. However you’ve arrived at this moment, there’s one thing that will determine how this goes more than anything else: the first few minutes!
Dog introductions can go wrong for lots or different reasons and it doesn’t mean the dogs are inherently incompatible. Usually, the conditions just weren’t right: too much pressure, not enough space, the wrong location, or leashes not handled correctly. All these things can turn a dog introduction into a nightmare. The good news is that with the right knowledge and a step-by-step approach, you can set the dogs up for a successful introduction and friendship that lasts.
Dogs form associations very quickly A first meeting that goes pear-shaped—one that involves fear, anxiety, or conflict—can establish a negative emotional response that influences future interactions between the two dogs. Building a positive relationship from a neutral or good first impression is much easier than trying to repair one that stated badly.
This is why it’s so important not to rush the process; one of the most common (and costly) mistakes owners make. The goal of an introduction is not to get the dogs playing within 5 minutes. The goal is to ensure you end the first meeting on a positive note—both dogs calm, happy, and ideally a little curious about one another. Not traumatized. Everything else can be gradually built from there.
A good introduction begins well before the dogs are anywhere near each other. Follow these steps to increase the likelihood of a successful introduction:
One of the most common mistakes people make when introducing dogs for the first time is a face-to-face introduction which can escalate quickly. Instead, opt for a more gradual approach: the parallel walk.
With both dogs on loose, standard-length leashes and both handlers walking in the same direction, walk the dogs with enough distance between them so that they see each other but they’re not reacting. A distance of 10 meters (30 feet) or more is a good starting point. Walk for several minutes, gradually reducing the distance between the dogs as they demonstrate calm and relaxed body language. This allows the dogs to become comfortable with each other without the social pressure of direct interaction.
Avoid tightening the leash if possible as this can increase tension and the dog’s ability to communicate normally. If you need to use the leash to manage your dog, increase the distance first.
This step is very important and one worth taking your time for.
Signs the introduction is going well include:
Signs you need to increase distance or stop the interaction include:
Research on calming signals in dogs has shown that behaviors like head turning, nose licking, freezing, and crouching are de-escalation signals that dogs use to communicate non-threatening intent (Mariti et al., 2017). When you see these signals, they suggest a dog is feeling social pressure and trying to manage it without conflict. Take note and increase the distance, slow things down and give both dogs some breathing room.
When both dogs have spent several minutes parallel walking with relaxed, loose body language, you can allow them to approach each other for a brief sniff; three to five seconds then call the dogs back to their handler and reward them. Repeat this several times.
This interrupt and reward pattern does two things: First, it prevents the interaction from building in intensity to the point where arousal tips into conflict. Second, it begins building positive associations with being near the other dog. Allow the dogs to approach each other at an arc rather than head on. This is much less intense and can help the dogs feel more relaxed.
If either dog shows stress, anxiety, reactivity, or aggression, separate them calmly and increase the distance between them. Try moving through the steps above again if both dogs remain calm. If one or both dogs remain heightened, it’s best to end the session, let both dogs decompress, and try again another day with a larger distance between them and shorter close interactions. Repeated, calm exposure under threshold (where neither dog shows stress, anxiety, etc.) is far more productive than a single long exposure that ends badly.
If things go badly and the dogs end up in a fight, separate them immediately and seek expert help before attempting another meeting. It’s also a good idea to contact a trainer or behaviorist if one or both dogs are still showing signs of being uncomfortable after several attempted introductions.
A successful first meeting is not a green light to leave two dogs unsupervised together. The home environment introduces new variables that weren’t present in the neutral meeting space (e.g. the resident dog’s territory, sleeping places, toys, etc.). You’ll need to:
Introducing a new dog isn’t an event, it’s a process. With a slow and steady introduction, starting on neutral territory, and gradually moving through the steps outlined above, most dogs will be amicable within a few sessions. Others can take a while longer. What matters is that the relationship is built on a foundation of calm and positive associations rather than pressure, conflict, or fear.
References
Feltes, E. S., Stull, J. W., Herron, M. E., & Haug, L. I. (2020). Characteristics of intrahousehold interdog aggression and dog and pair factors associated with a poor outcome. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 256(3), 349-361.
Mariti, C., Falaschi, C., Zilocchi, M., Fatjó, J., Sighieri, C., Ogi, A., & Gazzano, A. (2017). Analysis of the intraspecific visual communication in the domestic dog (Canis familiaris): A pilot study on the case of calming signals. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 18, 49-55.
Many of us can’t imagine starting our day without our coffee. However, you should take some extra steps to ensure your furry friend does not drink your coffee, as it can cause serious complications in our dogs.
Dogs are opportunistic creatures who will often take advantage of spills, unattended beverages, or open garbage cans. Often this behavior is harmless, however, it can pose a threat, as many of the foods we enjoy can pose health risks if ingested by a dog, including coffee (regular and decaf) and coffee drinks like cold brews and blended drinks. Espresso, of course, can be an even bigger risk due to its concentrated caffeine content.
The primary concern when it comes to dogs consuming coffee, or coffee grounds, is the caffeine content. Dogs are more sensitive to caffeine than humans, and small quantities can make them very sick. For this reason, even decaffeinated coffee has risks associated with it because the process does not remove all the caffeine. And, of course, coffee drinks like lattes contain caffeine, too, and are just as inviting to your dog as they are to you because of all that added sugar and dairy.
Through decaffeination, most but not all the caffeine is removed. The small quantity of caffeine that remains can impact small or sensitive dogs. While a few licks from a spilled mug may not be enough to pose a risk to a large dog, small dogs should be closely monitored for signs of caffeine toxicity.
Caffeine poisoning symptoms, or signs of caffeine toxicity, typically present within 30 to 60 minutes of consumption. They include:
More concerning than the beverage itself are the coffee beans and grounds. Caffeine can cause death in dogs, but the lethal dose depends on your dog’s size. If your dog consumes the grounds or beans, call your veterinarian or emergency vet clinic and tell them you are on your way with the dog. Beans and grounds contain a higher concentration of caffeine and pose a serious risk for caffeine poisoning.
If your dog has consumed coffee recently, your vet may induce vomiting to remove it from your dog’s system before the caffeine has had a chance to be absorbed. Your vet may also give your dog fluids, medications to help manage some of the symptoms of caffeine toxicity, and activated charcoal, which uses the process of adsorption to allow the caffeine to pass through your dog’s digestive tract without being absorbed by their body.
As with all toxic substances, the best practice is prevention. Keep all caffeinated products like coffee beans, coffee grounds, chocolate-covered coffee beans, caffeinated teas, caffeine pills, etc. in a secure location out of reach of your pups. Keep your freshly brewed beverages in a safe location where they cannot be knocked over or sampled by your pet, especially if they are hot! When you dispose of your used grounds, make sure they are disposed of in a secure receptacle, and if they are composted, make sure your dog cannot access the compost pile.
While coffee may be a part of our everyday lives, it can be dangerous if consumed by our pets due to its caffeine content. Even small amounts can be risky for small dogs and products like coffee grounds and beans constitute an emergency if ingested due to their high caffeine concentration. If your dog ever consumes a product with caffeine in it, it is best to contact your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline at (855) 764-7661 (there may be a charge).
Shedding season means a whole lot of hair on your clothes, furniture, and floors. If you have a Husky, German Shepherd, Collie, or other double-coated breed, you know how much hair ends up on your floors and under your furniture.
Outsourcing the vacuuming to a robot vacuum may mean less time for you cleaning up after your pups, and more time playing, training, and snuggling with them.
I’m self-proclaimed anti-robot-vacuum, but a few of these options have shown me that they can be a helpful tool in your cleaning arsenal when you have multiple dogs. I don’t think that a robot vacuum should be considered 1:1 substitutes for a good cordless stick vacuum, but they can help manage large quantities of dog hair and make it so that you don’t have to clean quite as often.
Suction power: Suction power is the name of the game when it comes to robot vacuums for pet hair. Generally, the more pets you have, the more suction power you need. Also, the higher pile your carpets and rugs, the more suction power you’ll need, too. While not all robot vacuum brands offer specific suction power measurements, some do. Homes with only wood or tile floors will be able to get away with less suction than homes with lots of high-pile carpet.
Brushroll design: Look for an anti-wrap brushroll design, especially if you have long-haired dogs. Anti-wrap brushrolls usually have angled V-shaped patterns, alternating rubber fins and bristles, and may have split-brush designs to prevent hair from wrapping around the brushroll.
Bonus features: Extras like mopping, stain detection, dedicated spot cleaning, sanitizing or cleaning mopping pads, pet waste avoidance, and self-emptying will make your robot vacuum more independent, so it’s not just another chore for you to manage.
Read on for the best robot vacuums for dog hair tested for Whole Dog Journal:
| Whole Dog Journal Rating | Product and Maker | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
  | Shark PowerDetect UV Reveal 2-in-1 Vacuum & Mop | $1,299, but frequently on sale for $899 or less | If you have multiple pets, dogs who frequently track mud and dirt in, or dogs who may have accidents in the house, this 2-in-1 vacuum and mop features UV stain detection, strong suction, and multi-type navigation that can easily avoid pet toys, leashes, and other dog items strewn about the house. |
| eufy omni c28 | $800, but frequently priced at $520 | 15,000Pa of suction power is plenty for most multi-dog homes and enough to clean higher pile carpets and heavy shedding. The eufy omni c28 is a mid-range robot vac and mop combo that has great suction and has an easy time getting over rugs. However, the navigation isn’t as smart or efficient as our top pick and it got stuck more frequently. |
| Shark Matrix RV2310AE | $500, but frequently on sale for $330 or less | A budget-friendly robot vacuum that’s best suited for single-dog homes or homes with mostly hard floors. It doesn’t have small obstacle avoidance and the suction generally isn’t strong enough for homes with multiple shedding pets. |
| Roomba 105 Vac Robot + AutoEmpty Dock | $250 | A budget-friendly iRobot model that lacks suction power but has decent LiDAR mapping skills and carpet detection. It’s best for small spaces and single-dog homes that don’t have a lot of shedding going on. |
The Shark PowerDetect UV Reveal 2-In-1 Vacuum & Mop is a powerhouse of a robot vacuum for pet hair (with a high price to match). This option features UV-powered stain detection and targeted stain removal that does a great job mopping up muddy paw prints, dog food spills, potty accidents, and stuck-on pet hair. The robot vacuum also sanitizes its own mopping pads, self-empties into the dock, fills/empties its own water tanks, and can be sent to “spot clean” messes.
In terms of vacuuming, it does a good job of sucking up dust bunnies and big piles of hair and cleans hard floors easily. It needed two passes on my “admittedly-not-vacuumed-in-two-weeks” flatweave rugs to pick up my Border Collie/Amstaff mix’s short hair (as it tends to get embedded in my rugs). It had an easier time picking up my Collie’s shedded out, fluffy undercoat. I generally needed to use the “max suction” mode on my rugs for the best performance, and it performed better in larger, more open spaces. It’s a good pick for large single-level homes, but smaller apartments or homes with lots of furniture and other things on the ground may want a smaller option.
Setup of this vacuum was a bit of a pain, and it took multiple tries to connect it to my home’s wi-fi network. However, once it connected, it created a very accurate map of my home and did a good job of detecting carpets. I have a lot of washable Ruggable rugs in my home that are fairly lightweight and this vacuum did lift up a few rug edges while working, but it generally does a good job of lifting itself over obstacles and finding its way out of sticky situations.
The eufy omni c28 is a great budget pick as a robot vacuum for pet hair if you can find it on sale for $500, which we’ve seen at multiple retailers.
It’s not as smart or efficient as the Shark PowerDetect and it tended to run into obstacles more frequently and took longer to get itself out of cramped situations. However, it had a slightly easier time navigating the rugs in my home and did a similar job vacuuming as the Shark, needing about two passes on my flatweave rugs to clean them when they were very hairy. The Shark PowerDetect’s mopping features, however, came out on top.
The eufy omni c28 features multiple suction levels (max suction, turbo, and quiet), and offers multiple cleaning modes, too (vacuum only, vac and mop, deep cleaning, or fast cleaning). The square shape made it better at cleaning edges and up against furniture than the shark, and it fit better under my bookcases and other furniture.
This robot vacuum was easy to set up and has an easy-to-use companion app. During setup, it seemed like the first mapping session didn’t save and needed to be done again. However, the finished map was slightly more detailed than the Shark map and divided itself into multiple rooms.
Frequently on sale for $330 or less, the Shark Matrix is a fine option for single pet homes on a budget. It features auto-emptying, decent home mapping, and fair suction for the price. The Matrix mode does a good job of going over spots multiple times to pick up loose hair and debris, though the suction isn’t nearly as strong as our two top picks. The Matrix and its base are both pretty small, so is a good pick for apartments and other small spaces. However, it doesn’t have small obstacle avoidance, got stuck on rugs and under furniture more often than other options we tested, and generally isn’t powerful enough for multi-pet homes with lots of shedding.
This budget-friendly Roomba featured slightly better carpet detection than the Shark Matrix, but seemed to have weaker suction, and similar navigation (it doesn’t have small obstacle avoidance and sometimes has a hard time getting over rugs). The Matrix also came out on top when it came to picking up more hair, since the Matrix mode went over multiple areas until clean.
The Roomba 105, however, is often priced at $250, so it’s more budget friendly than the Shark. If you’re looking for a true budget robot vacuum for pet hair, this isn’t a bad option but note that it doesn’t have the suction performance of other options on this list. It’s best suited for single pet homes and small spaces.
Temaril-P for dogs is a tablet that combines an antihistamine and a steroid, which is perfect to combat itchiness and coughing. If your dog has allergies, your veterinarian may prescribe Temaril-P (the brand name) or a generic equivalent to help provide relief from symptoms.
Temaril-P contains two medications: trimeprazine and prednisolone. Trimeprazine is an antihistamine and prednisolone is a corticosteroid. Each component tackles inflammation in a different way, providing multi-modal therapy for itchy or coughing dogs.
Temaril-P is FDA-approved for use in dogs and is available by prescription from your veterinarian. It is not a cure, but it helps control symptoms.
Since it contains an antihistamine and a steroid, Temaril-P is great to relieve itch, curb inflammation, and reduce coughing. Common uses in dogs include:
Veterinarians often prescribe Temaril-P to help get a flare-up of allergies or bronchitis under control, but it can also be used long term to manage allergy symptoms. Your dog will start off at the full dose for his weight for about four days, then your veterinarian will give instructions to gradually taper the dose. Your goal is to find the lowest dose that is effective to keep your dog feeling his best.
Both components of Temaril-P can cause side effects, including ones you will recognize as prednisone side effects in dogs.
Potential side effects include:
Increased drinking, urination, and appetite are all quite common when giving steroids. These effects will go away as you taper the dose and discontinue the medication. Give Temaril-P with food to minimize GI side effects.
Thankfully, the combination of trimeprazine with prednisolone means that the two drugs work together, providing relief for your dog at lower doses than if he was getting one drug by itself. This lowers the risk of side effects.
If your dog needs to take Temaril-P long term, you may see signs of Cushing’s disease such as a thinning coat, fragile skin, muscle loss, potbellied appearance, delayed wound healing, and abnormal heart rate. If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, contact your veterinarian.
An overdose of Temaril-P can be dangerous. Signs that your dog has consumed too much Temaril-P include lethargy, seizures, incoordination, and extremely low blood pressure. If your dog gets into a bottle of Temaril-P, contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Hotline immediately.
While your pooch can’t talk and tell you how much they love their life—their squeaky toys, walks in the park, and pup cups—they’re actually speaking to you.
“A lot of the time, dogs are so clear about what they’re trying to communicate, their body language, their movement; it all conveys a tremendous amount of information,” says veterinarian Gary Weitzman, president and CEO of the San Diego Humane Society, and author of several books about animal behavior.
Experts say body language is a universal language of sorts—dogs and humans each have their own form of nonverbal communication.
“It’s like being dropped into a foreign country, and you don’t speak the language, but you would understand somebody’s body language if they were motioning, ‘Come over here,’ you would get that right away,” says Robin Terrell, a certified professional dog trainer in the Dallas, Texas area.
The key is accurately interpreting what a dog is communicating. Though that can look different from dog to dog, researchers have identified typical happy dog body language and behaviors.
You’ve probably seen dog body language charts like the one above that help translate basic canine behavior, emotions, and feelings.
The charts usually show some of the most common signs of a happy dog, like a wagging tail, playful dog behavior, and a relaxed body. However, becoming fluent in dog body lingo means being aware that context matters when reading a dog’s mood.
For example, a typically happy dog may act differently in a shelter, at an animal hospital, or even within their own home.
“When the environment changes, it may change how your dog is going to look, and what signals they’re going to give you,” Terrell says. “If a guest comes and is standing up and reaching over my dog—that’s a very different environment versus if someone comes in, sits down, and then leans a bit to pet the dog; now you’re more approachable.”
A dog may demonstrate nervous body language like lip licking, yawning, and cowering. “You should take that into consideration, or you could be reading the signals wrong,” Terrell says.
What are the signs of a happy dog? While relaxed dog body language and playful dog behavior top the charts, we asked experts for their favorite characteristics.
All dogs have different personalities, energy levels, and needs, so this list isn’t a checklist; it’s a starting point, as only you know your dog best.
Relaxed dog body language is key to figuring out if your dog is at ease.
“We look for that whole loose posture; that’s really the first tip off that a dog is comfortable and happy,” Dr. Weitzman says. “The facial muscles are relaxed, the mouth is relaxed, it may even be open, like a grin.”
The position and movement of a dog’s ears can indicate how they’re feeling, but this can be challenging to read since canine ears come in many shapes and sizes.
“Ear positions may not look the same in a German Shepherd or a Doberman as they do in a Labrador,” Dr. Weitzman says. “We like to see ears looking relaxed, but not too tense, and not pointing backward or forward.”
While we’re talking about relaxed pooches, that also includes a dog’s eyes.
“If a dog is comfortable with us, their eyes won’t have a hard stare,” Dr. Weitzman says. “We definitely don’t want to see that ‘whale eye’ (also called wide eye and half- moon eye) where the whites of the eyes are being shown. We want soft, relaxed eyes.”
A dog wagging their tail is one of the most popular clues a dog is happy, but even a dog’s tail wag can have different meanings.
“I’m looking for a tail that’s relaxed, high, and waggy,” Terrell says. “Waggy butt, waggy tail.”
If a dog’s tail is upright and moving in a fast motion, the pup could be nervous. If their tail is tucked behind their legs, that’s a sign of fear.
Look for dogs expressing joy, like zoomies, squeaking toys, and giving play bows.
“The Academy Award of happiness would be a play bow,” Dr. Weitzman says. “I live for the moment that my dogs will do play bows. It’s definitely worth an Oscar if they’ll do that.”
A happy dog is excited to interact with you.
“I’m looking for a dog that wants to engage with me and wants to come into my space,” Terrell says. “When I call them, they come to me.”
A dog that seeks you out for physical contact is often showing they’re content. A pooch may rub against your legs, lean into you, bop you for a pet or a hug, or sit on your lap.
A healthy, hearty, and consistent appetite is another sign of a happy dog. If a dog is stressed, uncomfortable, or nervous, they may not eat well.
Dogs may let you know they’re happy by being yappy. Fast, high-pitched barks, yips, or yaps, while they’re playing, are common in dogs trying to show their bliss.
A happy bark is different from the “Who is at my door?” concerned bark or deep growl.
A happy dog likes to sleep near you, next to you, perhaps even on top of you. Sleep is important to dogs, and if they’re stressed, like humans, they may not sleep as well. An adult dog can need up to 16 hours of sleep a day.
Experts say it’s important to look for many indicators of a dog’s mood before assessing that a dog is happy.
“It’s not just the individual signs, it’s everything put together,” Dr. Weitzman says. “Like a wagging tail with a soft face, an open mouth, the ears being normal, the eyes focusing on you, but not really in an alarmed way. All of that together means that the dog is happy, but individually they may not.”
What may seem like happy behavior might mean something else. A dog who looks like they’re smiling could really be panting because they’re stressed, overheated, overwhelmed, or uncomfortable.
Look at the big picture before you come to any conclusions.
If you’re wondering how to make a dog happy, there are some simple ways to keep canines cheerful.
Dogs love routines. They like predictability each day, as you’ve likely noticed when it’s dinnertime and you are one minute late.
Dogs need enough exercise, especially active breeds like Huskies, Labradors, and Border Collies. If they can’t burn off their energy, they may develop destructive behaviors like digging, chewing, and barking. If your dog likes playing with other dogs, safely socializing is also great.
While exercise is important for dogs while you’re out and about, let them sniff. Using their nose means using their brain, which makes them tired—even if we get tired of watching them sniff the same spot for what seems like an eternity.
“Don’t pull them away from sniffing something in the bushes, because they’re getting so much information from that bush,” Dr. Weitzman says. “It’s a completely normal, natural behavior and they’re getting so much enrichment from doing that. Even though it seems like it’s taking 11 hours, let them finish the conversation that’s going on in their heads.”
Besides allowing your dog to go on sniffing safaris during walks, you can also use enrichment games to support their mental stimulation, such as dog puzzles, but there are free games you can play at home.
“I like to play a hunt game,” Terrell says. “I put my dog behind a baby gate, I take their food and put it around the baseboards in a room or underneath a chair, and then I release them. They go and sniff out their meal, and they’re using their nose to find their food and activating their brain, which gives them satisfaction.”
No one knows a dog better than their family, and learning to read your dog’s distinctive body language, signs and signals is the best way to spot happiness.
“We can generalize some things like ear posture, tail posture, things like that,” Terrell says. “But really a dog is an individual, and we need to look for that individual personality.”
Dog goggles are available for everything from safety to style. Military dogs in harsh environments, water-loving dogs, and dogs with eye injuries are just a few of those who benefit from wearing dog eye protection.
This strap-on eyewear is designed to fit canine faces and offers UV protection and impact-resistant lenses for dogs who enjoy active lives and activities such as:
Those are just a few of the activities where goggles for dogs can come in handy. Others include eye protection during laser treatments or lolling in a wading pool on a hot day. Dogs diagnosed with pannus (aka chronic superficial keratitis), a UV-light-induced disease most commonly seen in German Shepherds, may benefit from tinted eyewear that reduces UV light exposure. It might help prevent the disease from worsening, especially in dogs who spend a lot of time outdoors.
Protective eyewear is also useful for dogs recovering from surgery or an eye injury, such as a scratched or ulcerated cornea. I wish I’d thought to get a pair for Sparkles a few months ago for just that reason. She hates wearing an e-collar and she was always running into furniture and walls with it. Goggles might have been less troublesome for her, as well as preventing her from scratching at or rubbing her eyes while they healed.
While dogs with normal, healthy dog eyes don’t run too much risk of damage from bright sunlight, protective eyewear reduces glare, adding to canine comfort. It can prevent injury from foxtails, protruding brush, plants with thorns, and blowing debris, dirt, and sand.
Pets can also benefit from dog glasses if they have large, protruding eyes that may be easily injured. Think Boston Terriers, Cavaliers, English Toy Spaniels, French Bulldogs, and Pugs. Dog trainer Mikkel Becker put protective eyewear on her flat-faced dogs Indiana Bones and Otis when introducing them to foster cat Mylo, who was prone to scratching when afraid. The eyewear protected their eyes from the risk of cat claw damage.
It’s not only aging humans who may need to get glasses. While canine corrective lenses aren’t a thing, dogs who are getting on in years can have more difficulty regulating the amount of bright light entering their eyes.
“Dogs with conditions that cause persistently dilated pupils, such as iris atrophy due to aging, can be light-sensitive. These dogs can benefit from tinted goggles that block out some of the light from entering the eye, especially when out in bright light,” says veterinary ophthalmologist Cindy Mar.
That’s because the iris, the colored part of the eye that surrounds the pupil, is a muscle. Like any muscle, it can weaken over time, becoming less able to control dilation and constriction of the pupil to manage light filtration. If you notice your senior dog squinting on a sunny day, tinted eyewear might help.
Sometimes, when a dog is easily frightened by crowds or visual stimuli, tinted eyewear may help them to remain calm and reduce anxiety caused by bright or flashing lights, in much the same way as blinders do for horses. With positive conditioning, certain types of protective eyewear can potentially help reduce reactivity to things that might frighten dogs.
Finally, canine eyewear can just be a fun fashion statement for dogs and their people. After all who doesn’t look better in a chic pair of sunnies? For dogs who enjoy strutting their stuff and interacting with people, wearing cool shades can bring them the attention they crave.
Probably the best-known brand of canine eyewear is Doggles, the name, of course, being a mashup of “dog” and “goggles.” It’s closely followed by Rex Specs but there are quite a few other brands, many of which get good reviews. Here’s where to find out more:
| Product | Price | Sizes | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Doggles Originalz | $21 | Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large | Adjustable elastic head and chin straps, UV protection, anti-fog, shatterproof. Best for dogs with recessed eyes. |
| NAMSAN Dog Sunglasses | $14-$24 | Medium, Large | TPE frame, 2 adjustable elastic straps, UV-resistant, anti-glare, wide design. Designed for medium- and large-sized dogs. |
| Ownpets Dog Goggles | $14 | Small/Medium | Silicone frame with vents, 2 adjustable straps, UV-resistant, shatter resistant. Designed for small- and medium-sized dogs. |
| PetLeso Dog Goggles | $10-$25 | Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large | TPU frame with vents, 2 adjustable straps, UV protection. |
| Protective Pet Solutions OptiVizor | $48-$68 | Mini, Toy, Small, Small/Medium, Medium, Large, Extra Large | Adjustable Velcro collar and chin strap, trimmable visor, UV protection. Designed for medical and recreational use. |
| RexSpecs V2 | $93 | Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large | Flexible, vented frame, single lens, adjustable straps, UVA/UVB protection, impact resistant lenses. |
When picking goggles for your dog, the key point is making sure they fit well. No matter who makes them, they come in a variety of styles and sizes and different dogs have different needs when it comes to fit for canine eyewear. It’s always a good idea to check with the company for advice on fitting them to your dog’s size and head shape.
At a store, ask if your dog can try on the goggles before you buy them. If purchasing online, Dr. Mar recommends looking at the photo gallery to find a dog with a similar head size and shape to help determine the size to purchase.
Look for such features as comfortable padding, complete UV protection, a flexible frame for ease of adjusting fit, shatterproof lenses, vents for good airflow and water drainage, and adjustable straps.
You’ll also want to pay attention to the depth of the eye cup. Dogs with protuberant eyes need a deeper eye cup for best protection and fit. Antifog lenses can be important for dogs working in inclement weather. Choose goggles with clear lenses for dogs who like to swim, especially if they go underwater to fetch sunken toys. Some goggles may not stay on well if dogs have long hair or a lot of facial hair. Before buying, ask about the return, repair, or replacement policy if the goggles don’t fit or the lenses get scratched.
How dogs see depends on a number of factors, including visual field, acuity, depth perception, and color perception (yes, dogs can see some color—just not to the same extent as humans). In general, the visual acuity of dogs averages 20/75, but some breeds, such as Labradors, have closer to 20/20 vision.
Differences in canine eyesight are related to the shape of the head and position of the eyes, which affect visual field and depth perception. For instance, dogs with smushed, or brachycephalic, faces have eyes that are placed more to the side of the head, increasing what they can see with each eye, but decreasing their depth perception.
Other factors can also play a role. Sighthounds have long heads and the position of their eyes is ideal for chasing prey. Some studies show that they may also have higher levels of specialized retinal cells that provide them with improved ability to detect motion.
Although canine eyewear has a lot of benefits, don’t count on it to improve a dog’s sight, which may decrease with age or injury. While it would be great if a pair of specs could help, dogs who are experiencing vision loss don’t usually benefit from corrective eyewear. It might help dogs who have been left farsighted after certain types of cataract surgery, but most dogs adjust well without artificial aids. They might have reduced focus when they’re chasing a ball or angling for a treat, but overall there’s no reason to seek out prescription lenses.
Goggles for dogs can have separate eye cups, like the goggles you may wear in the swimming pool, or they can be wraparound, or spherical, styles like those you might have seen on Olympic athletes. Spherical goggles can offer better peripheral vision, while dual-lens styles may fit more snugly around the eyes. Because of their wider field of view, the one-piece or single lens type of goggles may be more appropriate for some activities.
“The style and fit of the goggles are important,” Dr. Mar says. “Select those that can truly protect the eyes—the ones that look like goggles for swimming or those for snowboarding—versus the ones made for fashion that look like glasses or are made for people. Special care is needed when selecting goggles for brachycephalic dogs because their ‘buggy’ eyes and short noses make them more difficult to find the perfect fit.”
Lens color affects the amount of light that reaches your dog’s eyes. Lighter colored lenses such as yellow or amber are good if you and your dog live in an area where you experience lots of cloudy days. Darker tints such as black or red are best for frequent sunny days. Choose smoke lenses if you and your dog spend a lot of time on the water on fiercely sunny days. For dogs with a multisport lifestyle, look for goggles with interchangeable lenses that are easy to swap out.
“You don’t want the lenses to be too dark or block out too much light for indoor activities or activities at night,” Dr. Mar says. “I also worry about the lenses that look like mirrors because they prevent you from seeing inside the goggles so you can’t tell if the goggles are fitting well and the lenses are not touching the eyes.”
There’s one potential drawback to canine eyewear: getting dogs to wear it. Some dogs take to it right away. Paisley, a cockapoo, wears goggles when she rides in her basket on Keith Comer’s e-bike.
“She needed zero training,” says Daleen Comer. “I just put them on her, and she wore them like a champ.”
Other dogs may be more reluctant. For them, go slowly and associate the goggles with good things. Positive conditioning is important. The company that makes Rex Specs has an excellent series of videos on its website showing how to introduce the dog to wearing them.
Acepromazine, commonly known as ace, is a familiar medication to many dog owners. It can be a useful drug, and it can be a dangerous drug.
Ketoconazole is a prescription antifungal medication available in a variety of formulations. This makes it a versatile treatment option for dogs plagued by fungal infections of all sizes.
Most dogs will either never need ketoconazole or might receive a medicated ear ointment or shampoo for a localized yeast infection. But if your dog contracts a serious fungal infection such as Valley Fever or Blastomycosis, ketoconazole may save your dog’s life.
Ketoconazole has many uses in dogs to treat fungal and yeast infections. Some of the fungal organisms that it may be used for are:
For localized infections, your veterinarian will likely prescribe a topical formulation of ketoconazole that can be applied directly to the infection site. This might be an ointment to go in yeasty ears or a spray to apply to affected skin on the belly.
Oral tablets are generally reserved for systemic infections that impact the lungs, bones, or deep tissues such as the nail beds. Oral ketoconazole may also be prescribed if your dog has a severe or stubborn local infection that has resisted topical treatment.
Ketoconazole for dogs works by damaging the fungi’s cell walls and stopping it from multiplying. Over time, this kills the fungal organism and clears the infection. For minor infections you may notice improvement within days. For more severe infections it may take two weeks to see improvement.
As well as battling fungi, ketoconazole has two other less common uses in dogs. It is sometimes used to help treat Cushing’s syndrome because it hinders the production of steroids in the body. It also may be given to dogs taking the immunosuppressant cyclosporine because it slows the metabolism of this drug, enabling the dog to take lower doses.
The length of treatment depends on the type and location of your dog’s infection. Minor ear and skin infections are often treated for a week or two. More robust infections may require several weeks of treatment.
Severe systemic infections such as Valley Fever and blastomycosis often require a month or more of treatment, and some dogs may need to take ketoconazole for the rest of their lives.
Ketoconazole shampoo is a great option for dogs with fungal skin infections, although what you can purchase over the counter is not prescription strength. Follow all instructions on the label closely, as most medicated shampoos work best when allowed to soak on the dog for several minutes before being rinsed off.
Expect to bathe your dog multiple times a week for two to four weeks. For localized infections you may only need to bathe the affected area.
Veterinarians like to use topical formulations of ketoconazole when possible to minimize the risk of side effects. By applying the drug directly to the affected skin, other parts of the body are not exposed and lower doses are needed. Do not allow your dog to lick ketoconazole sprays, ointments, or shampoos.
Oral ketoconazole should be given with food to minimize the risk of stomach upset.
Potential side effects from ketoconazole include:
Side effects are more likely if your dog takes high doses of ketoconazole or if she needs to take it for a prolonged period.
If your dog must be on ketoconazole long-term, your veterinarian will recommend bloodwork every three to six months to monitor her liver values. If your dog shows any signs of illness, contact your veterinarian to ask for next steps. In some cases, your dog’s dosage may be adjusted, or she might be switched to a different treatment option.
Thanks to its popularity as a soothing, healing herb—aloe vera’s annual sales are estimated at over $1 billion per year—it’s easy to recognize this succulent plant by its thick, fleshy, spikey leaves. You may have already used it to treat a sunburn or rash, and you might even have some plants of your own. Did you know that aloe vera can help your dog as well as you and your family?
There are several hundred species of aloe, but the most widely used is Aloe barbadensis, which is commonly known as aloe vera.
Native to the Arabian Peninsula, this aloe species is grown around the world. Its leaves contain a clear gel encased in a yellow latex film, both of which have medicinal properties. Aloe’s active ingredients include enzymes, amino acids, polysaccharides, vitamins, and minerals. Its inner gel has medicinal and cosmetic applications, while the outer latex layer contains aloin, a bitter compound with laxative effects.
Some parts of the aloe vera plant are considered safe for dogs and some are not.
As mentioned above, the yellow latex layer that grows between the aloe plant’s leaves and internal gel contains aloin, which irritates the colon lining and triggers intestinal cramping. Those parts are not safe for dogs. If your dog consumes part of a whole leaf, symptoms to watch for include:
Luckily, dogs are not usually attracted to aloe. However, curious puppies might chew on or swallow part of a leaf and adult dogs might lick freshly cut aloe vera containing the yellow latex layer that causes problems. If your dog does consume aloe leaves, call your veterinarian or contact the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or the Pet Poison Helpline at (855) 764-7661 for veterinary advice. A consultation fee may apply to the ASPCA call and a fee of $89 applies to the Pet Poison Hotline.
In contrast, the clear inner gel of the aloe vera plant is generally considered safe for use on dogs. Very few medicinal herbs have been clinically tested on dogs, but aloe vera is one that has. For example, studies published in Veterinary World, Microbial Pathogenesis, and Research in Veterinary Science have documented aloe vera’s effects on canine pyoderma (a bacterial skin infection), leishmaniasis (a parasitic disease that causes skin ulcers and other tissue damage), and skin wounds. The Veterinary World study concluded, “Aloe vera 40% ointment may be a suitable alternative to antibiotics for the treatment of staphylococcal pyoderma in dogs,” and the Research in Veterinary Science study concluded “Aloe vera was more effective than silver sulfadiazine in accelerating wound shrinkage, reducing healing time and decreasing the severity of the associated injuries.”
Enzymes in aloe vera gel have an anti-inflammatory effect, reducing inflammation in rashes, hot spots, and other skin irritations. Bradykinase, a key enzyme in aloe, helps break down inflammatory swelling or redness and itching, such as from insect bites.
Its amino acids are the building blocks of proteins that maintain skin and coat health. Aloe vera’s saponins, which have cleansing and antiseptic properties, help speed wound healing. Minerals such as calcium and potassium are important to muscle contractions and nerve signaling.
Aloe vera can treat or speed the healing of:
If you have an aloe vera plant, simply cut or break off a leaf and slice it open. Avoid the yellow latex film that’s just inside the leaf’s skin and use a spoon to remove the clear gel in the leaf’s center. Hold it securely (it’s slippery) and gently glide the gel over your dog’s skin. Apply enough aloe vera gel or juice to cover the affected area and let it dry, repeating as needed.
Several aloe vera gel products are labeled specifically for pets including:
In addition, many products labeled for pet use combine aloe vera gel with other ingredients, such as:
If you are considering aloe vera gels intended for human use, make sure they don’t contain any additional ingredients that might be toxic to dogs.
Aloe vera’s clear gel or juice contains polysaccharides that soothe and coat mucous membranes, which is why aloe vera is said to improve gut health, the immune system, and nutrient absorption. Human studies support claims that aloe vera juice helps metabolize sugars, fats, and starches while reducing inflammation, promoting a healthy gut microbiome, and improving muscle and joint function. It is associated in humans with a reduction of acid reflux and more balanced pH levels that reduce heartburn symptoms. In dogs, small amounts of aloe vera juice added to food may help improve overall digestion, enhance skin health, act as a prebiotic that improves the gut microbiome, boost immunity, and support joint health.
Some whole-leaf aloe supplements are labeled “aloin-free,” “decolorized,” “decolorized whole leaf,” or “purified,” indicating that any traces of the plant’s yellow latex have been removed by charcoal filtering or a similar process. Inner leaf or inner fillet aloe juice contains very little aloin because the plant’s latex layer is removed before processing. Whole leaf aloe juice should state that it has been decolorized or purified.
Aloe vera juice that is labeled for human consumption without the addition of other ingredients such as sweeteners and flavoring agents can be added in small amounts to your dog’s food or treats. One safe option is Lily of the Valley’s Preservative-free Aloe Vera Inner Fillet Juice, a mild tasting, organically grown, IASC-certified aloe beverage that supports digestive wellness. (The International Aloe Science Council, or IASC, audits manufacturers and certifies aloe vera products for quality.)
Aloe vera has a distinctive flavor and it isn’t one that tends to attract dogs, which is why adding small amounts to food rather than drinking water is recommended. Start with small amounts and increase them gradually for best results, beginning with 1/4 teaspoon per 20 pounds of your dog’s weight per day. After two or three weeks, with your dog responding well, continue that amount or slowly increase and eventually double the dose.
Aloe vera is versatile, but it isn’t a magical cure for all problems. Contact your veterinarian or choose another remedy to treat:
If you aren’t able to use aloe vera or would like an effective substitute for its topical or oral applications, click on these links to consider:
If your young Labrador Retriever is standing in front of you, staring at the tennis ball in your hand and tremoring, that is normal. If your short hair dog is out in wet snow for 15 minutes and is whole-body tremoring, which is shivering, that’s normal. But bring him into the house!
If your neighbor is not into the fourth hour of nonstop fireworks and your sensitive dog is shaking, that is fear and anxiety. It is normal, but you need to take steps to get your dog to a quiet place. Dogs who are in pain may also have tremors, and you need to get veterinary help to ease the pain.
Tremors or shakes when your dog is asleep and dreaming, however, is normal. Many dogs even “twitch” their legs as if they are chasing a bunny.
In a 2025 study of 198 dogs published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, researchers found the most frequent causes of tremors in dogs were intoxication (47%) and idiopathic generalized tremor syndrome, or IGTS, (24.7%). Intoxication included cases where the dog ingested a toxin of some type. Idiopathic means of unknown cause.
In a 2024 study published in Frontiers in Veterinary Science, researchers studied 33 dogs and concluded that IGTS appears to be an immune-mediated disorder of the central nervous system. “There are still large gaps in the current understanding of the etiopathogenesis of this disease, and research on this topic is relatively sparse, probably due to the good prognosis and straight-forward treatment possibilities,” they said.
Tremors involve two body systems: nerves and muscles. True tremors are involuntary. They occur without conscious thought by your dog. While they may resemble seizures, tremors are not due to short circuiting in your dog’s brain.
Two classic tremor conditions of unknown underlying cause are:
Idiopathic tremor syndrome is also sometimes called “little white shaker syndrome.” This is an immune-mediated condition where the immune system interacts with the nervous system.
Commonly affected dogs include Maltese, West Highland White Terriers, and small Poodles, which are also often white. These predilections explain the nickname of the syndrome, but any breed or mix could be affected. Symptoms usually start in dogs under 2 years of age.
These dogs may have no tremors noted while they sleep or rest, but once they get active, tremors start up. Fortunately, these tremors do not seem to be painful, and they don’t affect your dog’s consciousness.
Treatment with corticosteroids can usually alleviate the condition. While dogs may need to start out on a fairly high dose of steroids, this can usually be tapered down eventually to a minimal dose. Prognosis is great, and these dogs tend to live normal lives. Relapses can occur though, especially if the steroid dose is weaned off totally.
Usually found in young dogs, idiopathic head tremors affect only the dog’s head. The rest of the body stays normal. Unlike the whole-body tremor syndrome, these tremors are more evident when the dog is resting.
The head tends to bob up sideways in horizontal or vertical movements (like saying yes or no with just a gesture and no words). While any young dog may show this tremor, the most common breeds include Doberman Pinschers, Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Boxers, and Labrador Retrievers.
This head tremor is a relatively benign syndrome. You can often get the head tremor to stop by distracting the dog. Also, while these tremors don’t seem to respond to any treatment, they generally fade away with age.
Hypoglycemia: Some less benign causes of tremors may be related to medical problems. Low blood sugar or hypoglycemia may cause tremors. In diabetic dogs, this could be from a mismatch of calories going in and insulin dosage. Putting some Karo syrup or honey on your dog’s gums is a quick fix, but you need to get to your veterinarian.
Toxins: The ingestion of toxins can cause tremors. Common poisons include:
If you suspect, or know, your dog has gotten into something toxic, contact one of the animal poison control helplines, and head to your veterinary clinic. Pet Poison Helpline 855-764-7661 or ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 888-426-4435.
Canine Distemper: Sadly, cases of canine distemper are on the rise as some dogs are not being appropriately vaccinated for this deadly disease. Dogs who survive are frequently left with tremors or seizure disorders. There is no specific treatment for distemper. Supportive care is provided while, hopefully, your dog’s own immune system battles the virus. Vaccination is very effective. Distemper is a core vaccine, which means it is recommended for all dogs.
Muscle Fatigue: Cramps, or spasms can occur from muscle fatigue. In these cases, your dog might have tremors in just one leg. Rest and recovery are needed. Senior dogs who overdo it with a busy day or weekend can be prone to muscle cramps.
Low Blood Calcium: A serous cause of tremors is hypocalcemia or low blood calcium. This is most commonly seen in bitches post partum and is called eclampsia. Basically, the drain of whelping and nursing puppies causes low calcium. This condition can be deadly, and your bitch needs prompt veterinary intervention. Some cerebellar disorders can cause various tremors or head bobs.
Diagnosing tremors can involve a variety of tests. Perhaps the most important is a complete history. This relies on your observations. When did the tremors start? What was your dog doing when you first noticed them? Any possible exposures to toxins? Any other signs of a health problem?
Bloodwork can be important, especially if your veterinarian suspects hypoglycemia or hypocalcemia. A thorough physical exam may point out painful areas or weaknesses. If a neurologic cause is suspected, your veterinarian may refer you to a veterinary neurologist. A cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) tap an MRI might be done.
Treatment, if any is needed, will be customized to the likely cause. Muscle relaxants can be helpful as well as nerve-oriented pain medications such as gabapentin. Intravenous (IV) glucose or calcium can reverse low blood levels of those components. Anti-anxiety medications may settle a nervous dog.
Corticosteroids are important for cases of idiopathic tremor syndrome and may be required for life. Luckily, they are relatively inexpensive.
While tremors may be scary and frustrating for you, most dogs adapt to benign tremors and aren’t bothered at all. Having a benign head tremor myself, I can say that I don’t even notice it!
