A wagon ride isn’t as much fun for your dog as you may think. He’d rather be walking right with you and exploring. Glucosamine, chondroitin, fish oil, and hyaluronic acid are supplements that may help joint health. Stonena7 | Getty Images
When it comes to recommended joint supplements for dogs with arthritis, most veterinary professionals start with a product that combines glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate. Other top oral supplement ingredients to consider for your dog’s arthritis are fish oil and oral hyaluronic acid (HA). Joint supplements can slow the development of arthritis and ease joint pain.
The combination of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate has been used as a joint supplement for decades. Glucosamine and chondroitin are both naturally found in joint cartilage. Both have anti-inflammatory properties, help with pain, and cushion the dog’s joint, therefore easing the pain associated with arthritic joints.
While joint supplements help dogs with early arthritis, it’s wise to begin the treatment sooner rather than later. Active dogs, like agility dogs, often begin to take a joint supplement like glucosamine when they are around 1 year old to help support joint cartilage and slow the development of arthritis.
Many people cling to the decades-old belief that supplements to help arthritis don’t work. Well, that’s not entirely true. Joint supplements are preventatives that help slow the development of arthritis in your dog. They are not cures. Despite the belief that research is too inconclusive to believe, even as late as in a study released in 2023, huge numbers of anecdotal reports from veterinarians who recommend joint supplements to their clients show that joint supplements do help dogs with arthritis.
Glucosamine Dosages for Dogs
Overdoses of glucosamine are rare but can occur and usually show first as diarrhea and/or vomiting. Because the right amount of glucosamine to give your dog depends upon multiple factors, including what else is in the supplement, follow the manufacturer label instructions for your dog’s weight.
Most products recommend a short period of double dosing, which is called the “loading dose.” The loading dose jump starts the process, helping the glucosamine and chondroitin build up in your dog more quickly. You can do it with regular dosing, but it will take a lot longer to see results. Even with loading doses, it can take a month to six weeks to see a difference. Don’t give up too soon.
Note: Choose supplements made for dogs rather than sharing your human supplements, which may contain ingredients like xylitol that are toxic to dogs.
Fish Oil and HA Are Effective Joint Supplements
Many brands of glucosamine-chondroitin for dogs include additional active ingredients like fish oil and HA. Fish oil has strong research showing it to be a viable part of a pain-relieving treatment protocol for dogs battling arthritis, and was recommended by Dr. Joseph Wakshlag in Cornell DogWatch. In addition, a study on HA shows HA’s ability to increase the synovial fluid in a joint. HA has been long used as an injectable to promote joint health and ease arthritis, but many dogs, especially older ones, are responding extremely well to oral HA, which helps increase lubricating synovial fluid in the joints and avoids giving the dog an injection.
Best Brand of Glucosamine for Dogs
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When choosing a brand of glucosamine for your dog, look for a seal from the National Association of Supplement Companies (NASC), which verifies that the product you are buying contains the ingredients and amounts listed on the labels. We would avoid companies without that seal, with one exception: Products from Nutramax, maker of brands like Cosequin and Dasequin.
Nutramax has been an undisputable leader in joint-health research on supplements for animals for over 30 years. The lack of a seal on Nutramax products is not an issue for us.
Consult Your Veterinarian About Lameness
If your dog suddenly seems lame or sore when moving or getting up, don’t just guess arthritis, especially since arthritis has a gradual onset. The soreness your dog has may be due many problems besides arthritis. Never assume, even with an old dog, that glucosamine or fish oil for dogs are cure-alls. They aren’t.
If your dog is already limping from arthritis, chances are the pain is beyond the scope of a joint supplement. He may need a pain medication, such as the recently released Librela, which is an injectable drug that is helping a large number of dogs with serious arthritis.
Finally, keep your dog at a healthy weight. Maintain regular, appropriate exercise, like long walks and low-impact games. Tell your veterinarian if you see any evidence of early arthritis. The sooner oral supplements are started, the better the results. For active dogs, beginning joint-support supplements like glucosamine at an early age may have preventative properties and slow the onset of arthritis.
Caption: Affection, safety, and positive reinforcement are among the most likely reasons your dog chooses to sit on your lap. Credit: Nevena1987 | Getty Images
I don’t know about you, but I’ll freely admit I can’t speak dog or read a dog’s mind. If I could, I might be able to answer that question—and whole lot of others!—with authority. However, since we can never fully know the answer to why dogs sometimes sit on our feet or laps, we have to look to what experts understand about dog psychology.
Back in the late 20th century, people—and even trainers—believed that this kind of dog-sitting-on-us behavior was related to the dog’s desire to assert their dominance over humans. This idea arose from earlier studies of captive wolves in zoos, where packs were dominated, often violently, by a single wolf. Investigators then applied this dominance theory to wolves in the wild, and eventually to the family dog.
Luckily, science has now roundly dismissed this dominance theory as, in a word, bunk.
So, if your dog isn’t trying to dominate you by sitting on your feet or cuddling with you, what’s going on?
They Want Social Interaction
We know that dogs are social animals who have evolved to have close, affectionate relationships with humans, especially those who make up their human family. They show that affection through actions like licking (“dog kisses”), wagging their tails and wriggling their body, encouraging petting, ear-scratching, or belly-rubbing, and generally inviting physical contact with humans.
Veterinary Behaviorist and member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons Sagi Denenberg explains that a dog’s relationship with humans is related to attachment, not flawed theories of hierarchy or domination. That need for social connection drives much of dog behavior, from the desire to follow their caretakers around the house, to wanting to sit on their feet or lap.
“Often when dogs sit on our feet, it’s because they want to be close to us,” says Dr. Mary Burch, a certified applied animal behaviorist and director of the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program. “It’s one way a dog shows affection. Think of your dog sitting on your feet as the canine version of a hug or cuddle.”
This can apply to people outside the dog’s immediate human family as well: thanks to the tens of thousands of years they’ve been living with us, dogs have become acutely tuned to our emotions, which includes recognizing when we’re with people we like or care about. That means your dog may end up on the feet—or laps—of close friends and neighbors that are spending time in your home.
They Want Safety and Reassurance
Sometimes, your dog may feel the need for extra safety or reassurance. Maybe he heard gunshots, fireworks, or thunder. Maybe there was a strange dog outside. Maybe someone came in who looks different (perhaps a man with a beard or wearing a hat). Maybe it was a child, whom the dog has never been exposed to. My last dog Joey was struck with terror when he first met my kind and gentle brother, who wore a long beard and a hat.
Unfamiliar locations—your new house, a hotel room, or someone else’s home—and situations can also cause stress and anxiety, which often triggers the dog’s need to be physically close because he feels unsure and insecure. On the other hand, if your dog suddenly plops down on your feet when she’s never done it before, you might want to try figuring out if something’s distressing her.
Dogs can also “claim” their caretaker when they sense a need to protect them. It can be something as simple as that strange man with the hat, whom your dog sees as a threat. Sometimes a dog’s protectiveness has its roots in jealousy: for instance, your pup climbs onto your lap and tries to put himself between you and the person who sits down on the couch next to you. (It’s important to distinguish between a dog being protective and exhibiting protective aggression.)
They Want Rewards
Whether your dog is lolling on your feet or sprawled in your lap, you’re probably petting them, or kneading their ears, or scratching them under the chin, or just talking to them. In the dog’s mind, you’re rewarding them for doing what they’re doing, which is the definition of positive reinforcement.
Through your actions, you’re letting your dog know that his behavior is a good thing…which guarantees he’ll continue with that behavior to get what he wants: your attention!
In the end, there’s no single, definitive answer to why your dog likes to sit on you, whether it’s in your lap or on your chest or your feet. (My take has always been that since a dog’s sense of smell is so much keener than ours, one of the reasons they choose to lie on our feet is because our feet contain so many wonderful smells from places we’ve been!) One thing you can be sure of, however, is that your dog isn’t trying to be the “alpha” or “pack leader.”
Maybe the real answer is that they’re just being a dog!
Here we go again. Fire season has arrived at our doorstep and the sky is full of smoke and fire-fighting air tankers dropping fire retardant. Fortunately, we have been here before and know what to do. Do you?
Credit Nancy Kerns
I am sure this is tiresome, having me write one of these every year, but it seems to come up frequently here in northern California. We have a fire burning close by, and neighborhood after neighborhood has been evacuated today as the fire has progressed, close and closer to my house. The phone has been screeching with emergency alerts and updates from the Watch Duty app—a tool that has become the most critical and timely source of information about where the fire is, what resources have been deployed to fight it, and what zones people need to evacuate from.
First my sister’s boyfriend got evacuated, and he brought his two small dogs and cat to my sister’s house. My sister called me with this news, and I managed to tell her then that if she got evacuated, she should head to my house; it’s farther from where the fire started. By the time her neighborhood got evacuated, neither our cell phones nor text messages were working, but since I had recently put the Watch Duty app on her phone, she got word of the mandatory order and packed up her own dogs and essentials and she and her boyfriend caravanned to my house.
When she arrived, I was busy packing up my own essentials, just in case the fire spreads even more. It went from 10 acres at 11 am to 2,200 as I write this at 6 pm. My computer, back up drives, and cameras are in a plastic container by the door. The dogs’ gear is in a bag, also by the door. We were planning to leave for a three day camping trip tomorrow, so I had already loaded my car with a tent, sleeping bags, a cooler, and so on— but we’ll have to see what tomorrow brings. If my neighborhood gets evacuated, well, then we will go camping! And my sister and her boyfriend will head for our sister-in-law’s home 60 miles away.
Know your zone! Most counties make maps and designate each part of the county with a number zone. Evacuation orders generally are delivered by emergency service texts by zone.
We’ve been through this so many times in the past eight or so years, that it’s more or less automatic: Make sure the cars are full of gas. Plug the cell phones in while we still have power. Charge the cell phone battery backups. Fill a cooler with ice in case the power goes out and we have to put all our refrigerated food in coolers. Pack the car with tablets and a “go-bag” of toiletries, medicines, and enough clothing for a few days. Dog leashes and harnesses and food and medicines.
These sites have good information about getting ready to evacuate from a disaster. Even if you don’t have a disaster looming on the horizon, review the information so you can have some idea of what you might need to do if a tornado, hurricane, flood, fires, landslide, earthquake, or whatever might make you have to leave home.
When done right, teaching a dog to respond to her name is usually an easy and fun experience. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images
Asking for a dog to pay attention by calling her name is one of the most commonly used cues in everyday life with our canine companions. That makes it easy to teach, even by accident. Most dogs will figure out their names eventually even without being specifically taught because it is repeated and reinforced so often. Call your dog’s name when it’s time for dinner or a walk and she will quickly learn that her name means it’s time to check in to see if something good is happening. That said, you can speed the process up a lot by learning how to teach a dog her name.
Do Dogs Know Their Names?
As young children, humans learn by repetition (saying the name over and over again) and reinforcement (providing feedback when the baby responds) that their names refer to them as individuals. In a broad sense, the same is true for how dogs learn their names. However, what names mean to them is likely quite different.
For humans, a name is part of our identity, providing a series of sounds that refer to a specific individual. Just imagine what it would be like trying to navigate human society without a name. Though the communication barrier prevents us from asking, observations of dog behavior suggest that dogs respond to names more like any other learned cue.
As best we can tell, dogs identify individuals (both human and canine) primarily by smell, sight, and sound. Even if a dog never learns her humans’ names—though many do—the smell of a familiar person or the sound of a known voice will set her tail to wagging. A dog knows and remembers individuals by these characteristics first and only learns a word for that individual, such as a name, if there is a benefit to doing so. Therefore, if you want her to respond to such a word, you will need to teach her.
How To Teach A Dog Her Name
Before you begin teaching your dog her name, pick the exact name you are going to use to ask for your dog’s attention (see the sidebar below regarding nicknames). From there:
Get some treats your dog really likes and find a quiet spot with as few distractions as possible.
With your dog standing or sitting close to you, say her name in an upbeat, excited voice.
When your dog looks at you, give her the treat. You can also use rewards such as toys, praise, or cuddles.
Repeat 10-15 times.
Practice several times a day until she begins to look at you as soon as you say her name.
Once your dog is reliably responding to her name when she is near you, you can begin increasing the distance between you. From 5 feet away, repeat the steps above. When she is looking at you reliably from 5 feet, move to 10 feet, and so on. Remember, this is not a ‘stay’. It’s okay, even desirable, if she moves toward you when you say her name.
When your dog is regularly looking at you when you say her name from anywhere in a quiet, distraction free room, you can move to a slightly busier location and start the process again. You’ll want to begin with her close to you and add distance once you’re sure she’s still responding well.
Once busier locations pose no problem, you can start adding distractions such as tossing a toy right before saying her name or having another person walk into the room. If she starts losing focus at any point in the process, back up a step and practice closer and with fewer distractions for a few days before trying again.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
There are a few mistakes that are easy to make but best avoided if you want your dog to learn and respond to her name quickly. These include:
Saying a dog’s name in anger or frustration: It’s extremely tempting to use a dog’s name when she has done something naughty. However, if she comes to associate her name with unpleasantness—even if it’s only that you are upset—she will be much more likely to either ignore it or leave when she hears it rather than turning her attention to you.
Saying a dog’s name repeatedly without reinforcement: Especially in the early stages of teaching a dog her name, it is important to provide positive reinforcement whenever she hears her name and responds. Failing to do so can turn it into just another word she hears that doesn’t mean anything special.
Using nicknames or variations of a name: While nicknames aren’t a bad thing, they can be confusing for a dog. For example, if you start teaching your new dog to pay attention when you say ‘Harriet’, but also call her ‘Harry’ and ‘Princess’ expecting her to respond the same way, it’s going to take longer to teach her that all of those sounds mean you want her attention. You are essentially asking her to learn multiple cues for one behavior at the same time, which will likely slow down the learning process.
Changing Names
Many dogs come to their new homes having already been given names. Rescues and shelters regularly name the dogs they are entrusted with and many breeders name their puppies. When it comes time for the dog to relocate to a forever home, her new family will often want to change the name she came with. I’ve been asked more than once if that is a hardship for the dog.
In my experience, it is perfectly fine to switch a dog’s name. Even if she knows and responds to the old one, think of it as asking her to learn a new cue. The trick is to teach the new name with joy and affection so she associates it with great things.
What About Nicknames?
All of my dogs have nicknames. It just seems to happen. They come into the family, a name is decided on, and next thing I know the dog is being called several things that may or may not have anything to do with the original name. So how do I avoid confusing my dogs?
It’s pretty simple, actually. Nicknames are for downtime. Each dog has one name that is used for when I want their attention. That name is what I call them during training, mealtimes, and any other time I need them to look at me. I treat that name like a cue that only gets used when I want a specific behavior and am prepared to reinforce it.
By contrast, nicknames are casual. I usually use them during playtime, talking to the dogs (which happens a lot), or while discussing the dogs with other people. My dogs have tended to get the idea eventually, but I don’t expect or need a response to a nickname and I don’t actively reinforce it. In short, don’t hold back on the nicknames but be sure to decide ahead of time what you want your dog’s ‘real’ name to be!
It’s tough to manage one puppy, let alone two, and it could cause the puppy who gets less attention to look to his littermate for guidance, something called “littermate syndrome.”
Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images
“Littermate syndrome” is a general term used to describe what happens when things go wrong when trying to raise two puppies at once.
Puppies are a lot of work. Housetraining, frequent meals, teaching household manners and basic life skills, midnight pee breaks. It’s seemingly endless! These little guys are learning how to be real dogs and how they fit into our world, plus coping with the changes that come with growth and maturity. As the owner of a puppy, you are that puppy’s guide on this journey.
If you’re trying to raise more than one puppy at once, it’s easy to fall short on providing enough guidance. If each of the puppies isn’t getting all the attention, socialization, and training that they need, they can become dependent on a sibling and develop a wide variety of behavioral issues.
Littermate Syndrome Is Not a Disorder
Veterinary behaviorists do not recognize littermate syndrome as a disorder because it isn’t the presence of a littermate that causes the issues. Instead, these dogs’ behavioral problems are the result of insufficient socialization and enrichment. We can even see these problems in puppies who were raised by themselves and not given the support and training they need.
Puppies who don’t get proper socialization and training may show aggression, fear, separation anxiety, and lack of trust. None of these things are fun to deal with.
It is possible to raise two littermates—or two unrelated puppies that are the same age—at the same time and do it well. The key is to embrace each puppy as an individual and recognize that each one may have unique needs as they grow up.
Children are socialized by bringing them along to stores, parks, restaurants, and other people’s houses. We can do many of the same things with our puppies. Allow your puppy to observe the world and experience places and situations that will be part of her life.
It is critical that each puppy gets individual socialization outings, without their sibling. Each puppy may have different tolerance levels for new places and things, so you will need to adjust their experiences accordingly. During socialization, you want your puppy to always feel safe, so that she trusts that new things are usually fine and that you will never put her in a situation that she can’t handle. She needs to learn how to navigate the world on her own.
For example, some puppies might love greeting groups of people from the get-go. Other puppies might be more comfortable with one-on-one greetings with strangers at first. If one puppy is sensitive to loud noises, you will want to keep her farther away from things like construction zones so that she can take in the scary sounds at a distance where she is still relaxed.
Housetraining
Just because two puppies are littermates doesn’t mean that they will housetrain at the same rate. Remember that a large part of housetraining is us learning to read our puppy’s body language and understand when she is telling us that she needs to go outside. If you are raising two puppies, you will need to keep an eye on both and learn their individual signals.
Enrichment and Training
Both puppies need to learn things like sit, down, wait, coming when called, and to walk on a leash. You might be able to train both puppies at once sometimes, but it is usually best to give each puppy individual training time. This helps to foster your bond with each puppy and minimizes confusion as they learn new things.
It can be easier to teach puppies to walk nicely on a leash one at a time. If they are together, they are more likely to bounce and play, egging each other on and causing more pulling. Set a good foundation of leash manners individually, then practice group walks.
When doing play or enrichment activities with your puppies, be sure that each one is getting their fair share of fun and attention. Sometimes one puppy likes to hog the toys, or each puppy prefers different games. Foster each puppy’s unique preferences and have individual play sessions to improve your bond and learn more about each puppy’s personality.
Pepto Bismol helps dogs with vomiting and diarrhea. @Cunaplus_M.Faba/Getty Images
Vomiting and/or diarrhea are no picnic for you or your dog. It’s only natural to want a home remedy that will offer relief as quickly as possible. Since Pepto Bismol helps our upset stomachs, you may wonder, “Can I give my dog Pepto Bismol?” Generally, yes, you can.
The active ingredient in Pepto Bismol and generic versions is bismuth subsalicylate, an antidiarrheal medication that can safely reduce a dog’s symptoms of diarrhea, nausea, heartburn, gas, and stomach pain. Note: If using a generic version of this product, read the label to be certain it does not contain xylitol, which is a sweetener that is deadly to dogs.
Will Pepto Bismol stop my dog’s vomiting and diarrhea?
Pepto Bismol coats the irritated surfaces in the dog’s gastrointestinal (GI) tract, reducing inflammation of the stomach lining, just as it does in humans. This slows or stops the release of excessive fluid into the digestive tract, reducing the dog’s discomfort and slowing or stopping diarrhea. Be aware that giving Pepto Bismol to dogs may temporarily change the color of her poop to a gray/greenish-black color.
How much Pepto Bismol should I give my dog?
Liquid Pepto Bismol is available in original strength and an ultra-strength formula. It’s also available as caplets, liquid-caps, and chewable tablets. For accurate dosing, choose the original-strength liquid formula.
A generally accepted safe canine dose of original-strength liquid Pepto Bismol is 0.25 to 2 ml per kg of the dog’s body weight, which is 0.1 to 0.9 ml per lb of body weight. Dosage is a maximum of three to four times a day. Note: Dosing your dog may be easiest using a pet dosing syringe marked in ml (milliliters). The cup that comes with Pepto Bismol holds up to 30 ml and is awkward to use to administer the medicine to a dog.
Can I give my dog Pepto Bismol with other medications?
Do not give your dog Pepto Bismol if she receives anti-inflammatory medication (such as prednisone, carprofen, meloxicam, or aspirin), heart medication (furosemide, enalapril, benazepril), or is pregnant or nursing. Also, Pepto Bismol can interfere with radiographs (X-ray studies), so don’t use it if you are planning a visit to the veterinarian within 24 hours.
Vomiting and diarrhea are common in dogs and, often, Pepto Bismol can help, as can a short fast followed by a bland diet. If, however, your dog is markedly distressed or does not improve after 24 to 48 hours, the GI problems could be a sign of something more serious and she should see her veterinarian immediately.
While much of the time flatulence is normal for a dog, particularly foul-smelling or frequent farts could be a sign of a dietary or health problem. Credit: Lourdes Balduque | Getty Images
An occasional toot here and there is one thing, but if your dog’s nether regions can clear a room, it may be time for some detective work and even a visit to the veterinarian.
Causes of Flatulence
Flatulence—farts or passing gas—is a perfectly normal part of being a dog (or a human!). Your dog’s digestive tract is full of bacteria which aid in digestion by helping to break foods down. As food is broken down, gas is sometimes produced. This gas then escapes the body as a fart.
Your dog can also get gas in his digestive tract by swallowing air. Brachycephalic dogs with short muzzles, such as Pugs, Boston Terriers, and Bulldogs, tend to swallow more air than other dogs because of the structure of their head and neck. This leads to more frequent flatulence. Dogs of any shape can swallow air when panting, wolfing down food, or chugging water.
The food that your dog eats can also increase flatulence. High fat, high fiber, and spicy foods all come with an increased chance of farts. Also, most dogs are lactose intolerant which makes dairy products a risky business. And then of course there are the things that your dog eats even though he shouldn’t such as trash, stolen table scraps, spoiled food, or dead things found in the yard.
Here is a list of possible causes for dog farts:
Swallowing air when eating or drinking too fast
Swallowing air while panting after exercise
Eating cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, peas, or beans
High fat or high fiber diet
Dairy such as cheese or ice cream
Spicy foods
Dietary indiscretion
Changing to a new food too quickly
Stress
Overweight
If you find yourself asking, “Why is my dog farting so much all of a sudden?” these are some easy causes to identify and then avoid in the future. While the toxic gas from a garbage can raid isn’t pleasant, it will pass.
But there are more concerning causes of flatulence in dogs. Health problems in the digestive tract can cause increased or excessively stinky farts. There are even some problems with the heart or lungs can contribute.
These are some health problems that may contribute to dog farts:
Food intolerance
Food allergy
Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
Irritable bowel syndrome (IBS)
Pancreatitis
Intestinal parasites
Inflammation of the colon
Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth
Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI)
Cancer in the GI tract
Respiratory disease or cancer in the lungs resulting in increased breathing rate
Heart disease causing an increased breathing rate
When to Call a Vet
If your dog just farts once in a while or there is a very clear reason why he is extra stinky today (i.e., he stole a bowl of ice cream from your visiting nephew), you don’t have anything to worry about.
A vet visit is in order if your dog has frequent flatulence, or if it suddenly becomes worse in frequency or strength. In many cases bad gas is not an emergency, but it is still helpful to figure out why your dog is so stinky and make a plan to address it.
You should definitely call your vet if your dog has other symptoms of illness including:
Diarrhea
Bloody stool
Vomiting
Painful abdomen
Poor appetite
Weight loss
Lethargy or depression
Loud gurgling in the abdomen
Constant panting even in a cool environment
Difficulty breathing
If your dog is struggling to breathe or has both vomiting and diarrhea, this is an emergency.
Your veterinarian will use a variety of tests to determine why your dog has bad gas. First, she will ask lots of questions about your dog’s usual diet, any treats he regularly gets, changes to his diet, and if he has gotten into anything recently. Then she will do a physical exam to assess your dog’s overall health including palpating his abdomen. From there she will recommend testing based on what she thinks is the most likely cause of the stinky farts.
Testing may include bloodwork, a fecal exam, rectal exam, diet trial, x-rays, ultrasound, and/or endoscopy of the GI tract with biopsies. If a medical problem is found, appropriate treatment should help to resolve the farts along with any other symptoms.
Why Do My Dog’s Farts Smell So Bad?
Many different factors can impact the intensity of your dog’s farts.
High fiber foods—these take longer to digest resulting in more gas buildup in the intestines
Foods containing sulfur that is released during digestion
Spoiled food
Bacterial infections
Inflammation within the GI tract
Stress, medications, or an illness that causes food to travel too quickly or too slowly through the digestive tract
Adjusting your dog’s diet if needed or treating medical issues can help to decrease the pungency of your dog’s farts.
How to Decrease Dog Farts
If your dog has an underlying medical issue that is contributing to his farts, treating the illness will help to resolve the farts. For example, EPI is treated by adding digestive enzymes to your dog’s meals to help him digest food normally.
Food allergies and intolerances can be difficult to diagnose. True food allergies usually come with skin issues such as chronic ear infections, itchy red skin year-round, and chronic paw infections. Food intolerances are less severe but can still be unpleasant if they cause bloating or abnormal stools. If your veterinarian suspects one of these issues, she will likely recommend trying a novel diet with ingredients that your dog has not had before. If his symptoms go away after 8-12 weeks on the new diet, he probably has a food allergy or intolerance. It may take several rounds of diet trials to identify the ingredient causing the trouble, but protein sources such as beef, chicken, or eggs are the most common offenders for food allergies.
Here are some general tips to decrease stinky farts in your otherwise healthy dog:
Avoid dairy products
Feed “farty” vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or beans in moderation
Feed small, frequent meals rather than one or two big meals
Use a slow feeder bowl to prevent your dog from gulping down his food
Keep your dog active—exercise and lean body condition improve digestion
Consider switching to a food that is easily digestible and low in fat and fiber
Add dog-specific probiotics to your dog’s meals
Choose low-fiber dog treats
Skip the table scraps
Secure garbage bins so your dog can’t get into them
Consider supplements that include Yucca shidigera or zinc acetate
Ask your veterinarian about the medication simethicone or starting your dog on an antacid
We hope these tips help your family to breathe easy!
The full length of this adult female's spay incision was tattooed, but some spay/neuter tattoos are not as long. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
Dogs who have been spayed or neutered may have a small tattoo on their abdomen, or “tummy.” Called a “sterilization indicator tattoo,” this short, straight line indicates that the dog has had his or her reproductive organs removed. Green is the most common tattoo color, and the most common placement is near or in the incision for male and female dogs. It’s mainly used in shelters and less so in private veterinary practices.
The tattoo idea was developed in 2010 to prevent unnecessary exploratory surgery when the spay/neuter status of a dog is unclear. In 2019, Dr. Meaghan Mielo, then an intern, surveyed shelters, spay/neuter clinics, veterinary colleges, and private veterinary practices about their awareness and use of sterilization tattoos in dogs and found that the tattoo was not routinely used. Her findings were published in the July 2022 edition of the peer-reviewed publication The Veterinary Journal. Dr. Mielo’s report recommended enhanced training for veterinarians to encourage the use of tattoos and protect animals from unnecessary procedures.
A Sterilization Tattoo on Dogs Is Important
The tattoo on this young male dog was applied to the incision used for his neutering surgery. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
While some spayed female dogs have a telltale surgical scar, it can be difficult to detect, forcing unnecessary exploratory surgery to determine her reproductive status. The tattoo, however, is easily seen, although hair may need to be shaved away on some dogs. However, some female dogs may still have their ovaries. Without a uterus, they are sterile, but the ovaries continue to secrete estrogen.
On a male, the lack of testicles would seem to be a clear indicator that the dog was neutered, it’s not that simple because:
A male dog may have a retained testicle (or two). In these cases, the scrotum appears empty, as if he had been castrated, but the testicle(s) may still be there, undescended and remaining in the dog’s abdomen. These dogs are generally infertile but still manufacture testosterone and develop secondary sexual characteristics like other intact males.
Dogs can also be sporting synthetic testicles (Neuticles), which make the dog appear to have testicles but doesn’t. These devices can be surgically implanted in place of a dog’s testicles during neuter surgery.
Male dogs may have had a vasectomy, so sperm can no longer be ejaculated, which may be done if the owner wants the dog to retain his testicles but be unable to impregnate a female dog.
Although no longer used, in another alternative sterilization procedure, called Zeutering, the ability of the testes to produce sperm was destroyed while retaining its ability to manufacture testosterone. (The manufacturer of Zeuterin stopped selling it in 2016.)
How Is the Dog’s Spay or Neuter Tattoo Applied?
In some cases, the tattoo ink is applied to a small, shallow incision made in the dog’s skin close to the site of their surgical incision. After the ink application, the skin is gently stretched and a tiny amount of glue is applied to the tattoo to prevent the ink from spreading. A video at the ASPCA website demonstrates that style of tattoo application. Other clinics prefer to apply the tattoo ink directly to a short section of the dog’s spay or neuter incision itself.
Natural ingredients such as aloe, honey, and vinegar can be useful
for treating your dog’s minor wounds at home. Credit: Ashley-Belle Burns | Getty Image
While serious injuries require medical attention, many common problems can be treated on the trail or at home with simple, inexpensive, do-it-yourself remedies. To be prepared, keep natural first-aid products or their ingredients on hand to treat wounds when they occur. If a wound is bleeding, press gauze, fabric, or a paper towel against the wound. Don’t rub or scrub the wound and don’t apply hydrogen peroxide or alcohol as they can cause additional pain, discomfort, or tissue damage. Contact your veterinarian at once if the wound is deep, might require stitches, is bleeding heavily, is located near the eye or on the face, or if your dog is in severe pain or discomfort.
What Not to Do
For generations, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide have been go-to remedies for minor wounds, but neither is your best choice for treating your dog’s cuts, burns, abrasions, and similar injuries. Rubbing alcohol, a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, does kill germs but it actually slows rather than speeds healing. In a 2022 review of topical wound treatments, Ohio State Professor of Emergency Medicine Nicholas Kman, MD, explained that rubbing alcohol “can damage surrounding healthy tissue and shouldn’t be used to clean your wounds.” In 2007, the New York Times reviewed medical studies showing that hydrogen peroxide “has little ability to reduce bacteria in wounds and can actually inflame healthy skin cells that surround a cut or a scrape, increasing the amount of time wounds take to heal.”
First-aid Rinses
Because bacteria are everywhere, washing or rinsing the affected area can reduce the risk of infection. A simple wound-cleaning strategy is to pour a first-aid rinse over the wound from a cup, bowl, or water bottle, apply it with cotton balls, or apply it to the center of the wound with a syringe or turkey baster and add more rinse to the wound’s outer margins.
A plain water rinse removes dust, dirt, debris, and other contaminants from the wound’s surface, which reduces the risk of infection and promotes healing. Because water doesn’t contain harsh chemicals or additives, its gentle cleansing cools the wound and helps prevent irritation. The safest water to apply is sterile, meaning distilled water or tap water that has been heated to boiling and cooled. Blot moisture from around the wound and let it air dry.
A salt-water rinse has significant healing benefits, especially if you use unrefined salt, which contains minerals and trace elements. Natural markets carry several brands of unrefined sea salt, which draws moisture from bacterial cells through osmosis, which helps reduce the risk of infection. Calcium, magnesium, and other minerals promote rapid wound healing by providing essential nutrients to wounds, plus they reduce inflammation and skin irritation.
Yeas ago in my dog’s obedience class, a female German Shepherd Dog suffered from a sore that wouldn’t heal despite repeated trips to the veterinarian over several months. When her owner applied a solution of 2 tablespoons unrefined sea salt in 1/2 cup water, the sore improved that same day and healed within a week. That solution was more concentrated than most recommendations for wound rinsing, which are typically 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of salt per cup of water, but nearly any salt-water solution will effectively clean wounds and speed their healing.
Herbal tea rinses made from skin-friendly herbs like chamomile, calendula, green tea, or lavender help reduce swelling, redness, and pain while inhibiting the growth of bacteria and other pathogens. To make an effective herbal rinse, place 6 teabags or 6 teaspoons (2 tablespoons) dried herbs in a 1-quart glass jar or ceramic tea pot. Fill the container with boiling water, close the lid, and let the tea stand until it cools to room temperature. Strain the tea before using. Most herbal teas stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to a week. For long-term storage, freeze herbal tea in ice cube trays, then keep the frozen cubes in labeled air-tight plastic freezer bags.
Willard Water Rinse: Willard Water, an antioxidant concentrate, can be added to water or herbal tea at the rate of 1 teaspoon per quart to help the liquid penetrate wounds and speed healing.
A vinegar rinse helps disinfect wounds while soothing the skin. Apple cider vinegar is often recommended as a wound rinse, but because it can stain white hair, use plain white distilled vinegar if your dog has a light-colored coat. In July 2022, the International Journal of Dermatology described vinegar’s proven antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. For dogs, dilute apple cider or white distilled vinegar with an equal amount of water before applying, or apply full-strength, then rinse after half an hour with plain water or an herbal tea.
An herbal vinegar rinse combines the skin-healing, anti-inflammatory properties of medicinal herbs with the antiseptic properties of vinegar. For an effective skin tonic, combine fresh or dried rosemary leaves, calendula blossoms, rose petals, juniper berries, lavender stalks or flowers, lemon peel, orange peel, sage, or chamomile blossoms in any combination in a glass jar, loosely filling it to about 1/3. If using fresh herbs, fill to about 1/2 of the jar. Fill the jar with raw (unpasteurized) organic apple cider vinegar. Seal the jar tightly, leave it in a warm place, and shake the jar every few days for a month. Then strain the rinse, add an equal amount of distilled or boiled and cooled water to dilute it, transfer the rinse to sterile glass jars, and store them in a cool, dark place. Note that dark herbs and apple cider vinegar will stain light or white coats.
All-purpose Soothing Wound Treatment
WDJ contributor Mary Straus creates her own canine wound cleanser by combining 1 part aloe vera juice or gel with 3 parts witch hazel. In a 2-ounce bottle, this would be 1 tablespoon aloe vera and 3 tablespoons witch hazel, to which she adds 2 drops of lavender essential oil. “I shake it up before using,” she says. “I’ve found that it soothes any itch and helps keep a dog’s mouth off any wound or abrasion.” She applies the blend with cotton balls and lets the mixture air dry. None of the wounds she has treated for the past 30 years has become infected.
Witch hazel is rich in tannins, which are naturally occurring compounds found in plants, seeds, bark, and leaves and which have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Look for witch hazel products with no added fragrance and which contain little or no alcohol, such as Thayers or Dickinson’s.
Apply an After-Rinse Treatment
While this step isn’t necessary if the wound is minor, it helps to be prepared if additional treatments, such as the following, are needed.
Honey
Manuka or any high-quality raw (unpasteurized) honey can be applied as an ointment for burns, cuts, and other wounds. Clinical trials of human patients show that the application of honey as a wound dressing rapidly clears infection, inflammation, swelling, pain, and odor while speeding the sloughing off of necrotic (dead skin) tissue and the growth of new skin cells. Honey remains moist, seals and protects wounds, absorbs pus, reduces scarring, and prevents wounds from sticking to bandages. Unlike most topical antiseptics, honey prevents microbial growth without causing tissue damage.
Manuka honey from Australia is well known because of its scientific testing, but all raw organic honeys have medicinal benefits. In 2021, the journal Open Life Sciences published an updated review of honey as a wound healer and found that it significantly improved the healing of burns, abrasions, scratches, and infected wounds.
To use, rinse a burn or other wound, then apply a thick layer of honey. For burns, apply every 10 minutes until the pain subsides, and follow with a light bandage. It may be necessary to clip hair from the treated area and use a cervical or Elizabethan collar to prevent the dog from licking the honey.
Over time, raw honey can crystalize, forming sharp points and solidifying so it’s impossible to pour. To return honey to its original state, place it in a bowl that you warm in hot water or gently heat the honey at low temperature on the stove (don’t use a microwave), then cool before applying.
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids fight harmful bacteria, viruses, yeasts, fungi, and parasites, making it an effective salve or dressing for cuts and wounds of every description. Its only downsides are that most dogs love the taste and want to lick it off, and at temperatures below 75o F, it’s solid. If the wound is where your dog can’t reach, keeping it moist with a small amount of coconut oil can be an excellent idea. To soften coconut oil that has turned hard, keep some in a small jar or bottle for easy warming.
Aromatherapy
Many essential oils have antibacterial or disinfecting properties. For safety when treating dogs, essential oils should be diluted with a carrier oil or other liquid base. According to Colorado aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland, the best carrier for canine cuts, burns, abrasions, and other wounds is organic cosmetic-grade aloe vera gel, which is both soothing and healing.
Here is a blend you can create without having to invest in the expensive essential oils Cleveland uses in her FrogWorks pet aromatherapy products. “Use a clean glass jar with a nice lid,” she recommends, “and combine 30 ml (2 tablespoons or 1 fluid ounce) organic cosmetic-grade aloe vera gel with 20 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil. Stir to mix thoroughly, then dab a tiny amount onto the wound.” This recipe is simple, safe, affordable, effective, and uncomplicated, making it ideal for dog lovers to try.
Styptic powder is a familiar grooming product that stops the bleeding of nails that are too closely trimmed. The veterinary product BleedClot, from the makers of the human product BleedStop, is an easy-to-apply powder that goes beyond styptic powder by stopping the bleeding of small, large, shallow, and deep wounds on contact. Nonstinging, sterile, and hypoallergenic, BleedClot does not stain tissue and is safe for animals even if ingested. Its main ingredient, amylopectin, acts as a dehydrating “sponge” when applied, soaking up water and blood plasma. This product is recommended for any bleeding wound.
Do You Need a Bandage?
A bandage’s main advantage is that it helps keep a wound clean and protected from contamination. However, bandaging a dog’s wound may not be necessary. If in doubt, consult your veterinarian, who can advise you on bandaging techniques.
: We recommend buying food from independent pet supply stores whenever possible, as these owners and managers are often better educated about nutrition and can help you make buying decisions based on your dog’s needs. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
It’s getting increasingly difficult to neatly categorize and select the best non-kibble dry dog foods. Freeze-dried foods, which once seemed novel, are now quite common, either as stand-alone diets or as meal “toppers” or treats. There are also ever-more dog diets being made with dehydrated meats.
Obviously, we include dehydrated diets—which range from low-moisture, powdery or muesli-like products, to chewy, jerky-like products with moisture levels that are a bit higher (12% to 14%) than those seen in kibble (usually, 9% to 10%)—in the same review category as freeze-dried. After all, these products all have a high inclusion of raw meat and animal organs (such as heart, liver, kidneys, lungs, and tripe), and just a few other ingredients.
Today, though, we’re seeing a burgeoning number of diets that incorporate freeze-dried or dehydrated raw meats but that are made in truly innovative ways, resulting in some novel, niche-defying products. Some contain higher inclusions of carbohydrate sources than most freeze-dried diets; some even resemble kibble in appearance and texture! “Cold-pressing,” steaming, and air-drying processes have also become much more common methods for manufacturing foods that are as lightly processed as possible, leaving the vitamins and vital enzymes in the products minimally damaged or reduced.
Our Favorite Freeze Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods
Things we like: In our experience, this product is universally accepted and easily digested by most dogs. Company says 98% of the product is comprised of meat, organs, and fresh ground bone; organic fruits and vegetables are also used. Taurine is added to all of Stella & Chewy’s products.
Things we like: Ingredients include grass fed beef and many organic foods. Primal uses no synthetic vitamins in its formulas, just whole food sources of required nutrients. Probiotics are included on the guaranteed analysis.
As we stated in the main article, this category of foods tends to be very high in protein and fat, making it difficult (but not impossible) to find one of these products for dogs who require a low-fat diet.
Things we like: This is a “human-grade” food, made with human-grade ingredients in a human-food manufacturing facility. Several of The Honest Kitchen’s foods, including this one, have had their nutritional adequacy proven via AAFCO feeding trials—a rare accomplishment in this category of products.
First 10 ingredients: Chicken, chicken hearts, chicken liver, chicken gizzards, yams, apples, kale, collards, fish bone meal, dried kelp.
Many of the least expensive products in this category are made by The Honest Kitchen, who makes our overall favorite product. How do they do it, while using only human-grade ingredients and manufacturing in human-food manufacturing plants? Perhaps it’s because they’ve been making these products for longer than just about any other company.
Things we like: This is a “human-grade” food, made with human-grade ingredients in a human-food manufacturing facility. Several of The Honest Kitchen’s foods, including this one, have had their nutritional adequacy proven via AAFCO feeding trials—a rare accomplishment in this category of products.
Shared Traits of Dried, Dehydrated, and Freeze-Dried Dog Foods
First, all of these products are made with relatively low-temperature, slow processes that remove moisture from fresh ingredients while protecting and preserving their nutrients. The removal of moisture not only creates shelf-stable products, but foods that are light and inexpensive to ship.
Shipping might be the only thing that is inexpensive about them, however. The pet food makers who compete in this category tend to use very high-quality ingredients; many of them contain human-grade meats (the legal term is “edible”) and organic produce. And both freeze-drying and dehydration are energy-intensive processes; these foods are not cheap to make, so they are not cheap to buy, either.
However, the makers of these products would hasten to tell you that due to the superior digestibility and high energy density of these products, the cost of using them to meet your dog’s nutritional requirements is comparable to—or even less than—the cost of feeding a fresh refrigerated, canned, or frozen raw diet.
All of these products contain mostly meat and other animal ingredients (including organs, ground bone, and plasma or blood products). Many of the companies claim that their products consist of 80% or more animal protein sources; some claim to contain as much as 95%! The resulting diets are highly digestible and highly palatable.
Also, most of the products that we are lumping together in this category have a very low carbohydrate inclusion. Remember, dogs don’t require carbs; they can live on fat and protein alone, as long as they get the vitamins and minerals they need.
But also keep in mind that if you don’t include carbs in a diet, only protein and fat remain, and that fat contains more than twice the calories as protein or carbohydrates. (Carbohydrates and protein both contain 4 calories per gram; fat contains 9 calories per gram!) Many of these products may contain more fat than is healthy for dogs who are overweight and/or sedentary, or who are intolerant of fat (such as dogs who are prone to pancreatitis).
Not All Companies Use a “Kill Step” on Their Raw Products
Many of the products in this category of dog foods contain meat that is technically raw; it’s never been exposed to temperatures that kill pathogenic bacteria, such as Salmonella,Listeria, and E. coli. In order to avoid the potential of one of these pathogens making a dog sick—or, importantly, any humans who serve the dog’s food or come into contact with his food bowls—some of these companies subject their products to a different sort of “kill step” to eliminate pathogenic bacteria. Note that dogs are better equipped than humans are to consume pathogenic bacteria without getting sick, and there are thousands of people who feed fresh, raw diets to their dogs without any incidents. However, if your dog, you, or anyone in your household is immune-suppressed, it would be smart to buy and feed products that have been treated with a kill step so they are more likely to be pathogen-free. The most commonly used kill step in this industry is the use of high pressure processing (HPP), which subjects the food to such high pressure (in a pressurized tank of water) that kills any pathogenic bacteria that may be present in the raw meat. (See “High Pressure Processing in Dog Food,” WDJ April 2015 for more information about the process.) Irradiation is another safe kill step available to pet food makers, but we didn’t find any company disclosing their use of irradiation. It seems that while irradiation is in wide use for human food—and where irradiated products must be labeled as such by law—the stigma of irradiation seems to be too great for pet food makers to risk admitting its use. Also, they don’t have to admit it; there is no law that requires that an irradiated pet food must be labeled as such. Some manufacturers, however, believe so strongly in the benefits of raw foods that they refuse to use a kill step, relying instead on the quality of their ingredients and their own food “hazard analysis and critical control points”(HACCP) plans to prevent selling contaminated products. We respect the right of owners to feed raw foods that have not undergone a kill step – as long as they are informed about the risks to which they are subjecting themselves and their dogs. We also recommend that you consider buying products from companies that utilize a “test and hold” program whereby finished products are tested for pathogens and not released for sale until results indicate the products are uncontaminated.
Selection Criteria for Dehydrated or Freeze-Dried Dog Foods
“Well,” you may be saying. “These foods sound like a nice addition to my dog’s diet—or a replacement for my dog’s current diet. How do I choose which ones might work best for me and my dog?” Here are some bullet points to consider when making your choices:
For most of us, price will be a consideration. The high cost of these foods might not matter if you have one or two very small dogs or one very precious larger dog, or if you’re wealthy. But I couldn’t afford to feed them all the time to my two large dogs!
That said, I love having some on hand to use as treats and food toppers (to boost nutrition and the palatability of their regular food). And when I’m fostering sickly shelter dogs, freeze-dried foods are my magic remedy; I’ve helped all sorts of sick puppies back from the brink with these high-quality diets. So, though I could not afford to feed them full time, I fit a certain amount of these products into my monthly dog-food budget. You have to do what works for you.
Ingredients that work for your dog. It should be obvious, but you have to check product labels to make sure that any prospective diet doesn’t contain ingredients that are problematic for your dog. Is he allergic to or intolerant of certain proteins? (Are you keeping a food calendar or journal of what you feed and how your dog looks and feels? That’s the best way to learn about and keep track of that.)
Fortunately, many of these diets are limited-ingredient, with single sources of animal proteins in each formula. It’s much easier to find foods with a small number of ingredients in this category than in kibbled products.
Appropriate protein and fat levels. Look at the guaranteed analysis of any product you are considering. These diets are high, high, high in protein and fat. They can be just the thing for thin, young, active dogs, sport dogs, working dogs, and pregnant or nursing dogs, but they are likely not a great idea for your couch potato Labrador or the Dachshund who gains weight from breathing.
Complete information about products on the company website; ease of contacting company. In our view, there is absolutely no excuse for a company to fail to inform consumers about the nutritional adequacy of its products. If you are in the nutrition business, provide basic nutrition information!
We actually cut a few companies who have been on our “Approved Foods” list in past years for lacking basic information about their products on their websites or labels such as “nutritional adequacy statements.” These statements tell consumers which criteria the food met in order to qualify as a “complete and balanced diet” for dogs, and, importantly, which dogs the food is intended for. Adult dogs only? Dogs of all life stages? What about large-breed puppies? This statement is the bare minimum—and companies that don’t display this information for each of their products shouldn’t even be considered, in our opinion.
We feel equally strongly about companies that make it difficult to reach them. A few don’t publish their phone numbers anywhere; we’re not fans of this (though we haven’t eliminated a company from our consideration for this alone—yet). Some do publish their numbers but don’t answer their phones or return calls left in voice mailboxes! One company we called recently had a full phone mailbox—for days!
Ease of purchasing. Some of these products can be found in chain pet supply stores and online retailers. Others are sold only in independent pet supply stores and some can be purchased by subscription and are direct-shipped. All of these methods have pros and cons.
Approved Freeze-Dried/Dehydrated Foods
If you’re ready to try some of these products, we’re giving you dozens of candidates to choose from. Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 List of Approved Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods includes companies that make diets that meet our selection criteria, which can be abbreviated thusly: No unnamed meats or fats; only whole, lightly processed, “real food” ingredients; and no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
You can access information about the companies on our list in two ways:
1. Subscribers can download a PDF that contains contact information for each company, as well as information about their offerings in this dog-food category: how many varieties they make for dogs of each “life stage” (adult maintenance or “all life stages”), and the range of protein and fat that their products contain. This information is important, because virtually all of the products in this category are high in protein and fat. It might be impossible to find an appropriate diet in this category for a dog who cannot tolerate high fat levels.
We’ve also given the first 10 ingredients of at least one variety that each company makes. In most cases, we chose a beef-based variety, so similar products could be compared side by side. If the company offers several lines of disparate products, we highlighted the ingredients of two or three products made by that company.
2. Subscribers can also use our searchable database to look at in-depth information about each product made by the companies on our “2024 List of Approved Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods.” This information gives the full ingredient list of each product made by each approved company, as well as each product’s protein and fat content; whether its nutritional adequacy was proven by AAFCO’s “nutrient levels” requirement or a feeding trial; what “life stage” it’s formulated for (adults only or dogs of all ages, including whether it’s appropriate for large-breed puppies or not); whether it is grain-free or grain-inclusive; and whether it was made by freeze-drying, dehydrating, or some combination of the two. The searchable database also provides a link to a location where each product can be purchased. Note: Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase food through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.
The best part about the searchable database is that you can use various filters to find foods that do or do not contain certain ingredients or that contain more or less than a certain amount of protein and/or fat. You can sort the database by the names of the companies or by the price of the individual products, as you wish.
We’re excited about the possibilities of this searchable database, and hope you find it to be helpful for finding good foods for your dogs. Keeping your dog’s individual needs in mind, try some new products, switch frequently – and always watch your dog! Note the date that you start feeding any new food on a calendar and record your dog’s physical responses to the switch, good and bad. If you pay attention, he’ll let you know what works for him (and what doesn’t) with his appetite, energy, skin and coat, stool, and weight.
Many of these foods are sold directly by the manufacturer, some by subscription. A few of the largest and oldest companies’ products can be found in chain pet supply stores, but the majority of these foods are sold in independent pet supply stores that specialize in premium or “holistic” foods.
Check out Whole Dog Journal's latest list of approved freeze-dried or dehydrated dog food products. Did your dog's food make the list?
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In most of the stock photos of people brushing a dog’s teeth, the dog model has short hair—for a good reason! It’s hard to see whether you are actually making contact with the dog’s teeth when there is a lot of hair in the way. Photo credit, wckiw, Getty Images.
I know that we’re supposed to be the experts here—but I need some advice, preferably from those of you with longer-haired dogs.
As I told you a few weeks ago, my 2-year-old dog Boone recently broke two of his front teeth. When he had surgery to remove the broken-off roots of those teeth, he also had x-rays and a thorough dental examination—during which the veterinarian found a significant accumulation of dental tartar and resultant inflammation along Boone’s gum line. He even had periodontitis—a gum infection that damages the soft tissue around teeth—in a couple of spots. And he’s not even 3 years old!
A photo taken by my veterinarian just before Boone’s recent dental surgery and dental cleaning. That redness along the gum line, and particularly, the dark line along the base of the biggest molar in the photo, is a sign that he had an active gum infection, due to a buildup of plaque and tartar.
Until now, I’ve been pretty lucky; my dogs have mostly managed to get by with just one or two veterinary dental cleanings in their entire lifetimes, even though I (true confession time) have never been good about brushing their teeth. Otto, who nearly made it to 16 years of age, had a couple of dental cleanings when he was under anesthesia to have cracked or broken teeth removed, but he never developed gum disease. And Woody, at age 8, has never had a dental cleaning, and his teeth and gums look pretty good! But Boone’s teeth are already a disaster.
Well, isn’t bad luck; this is more like the norm. WDJ’s authors have previously cited a widely reported statistic: 80% of dogs over the age of 3 years have active dental disease. And the statistic has finally caught up with me. It’s clear that with Boone in particular, I can either start brushing his teeth frequently in order to support his dental health, or plan to spend thousands on fairly frequent veterinary cleaning during his lifetime.
So I’m trying, and Boone is actually more or less cooperating; he likes the taste of the toothpaste! But here’s my dilemma: He’s got such a fuzzy face, and sort of frilly lips, that it’s hard to clear all of that fur and those lips out of the way in order to see whether I’m actually scrubbing his teeth! Someone among you must have solved this problem; please share any tips you have!
