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How to Have a Happy Retirement

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Sometimes it's best to let a therapy dog stay at home and rest.
Samson has worked as a therapy dog at Butte County's Juvenile Hall for nine years, first informally and later, as a certified Pet Partner. Credit: Nancy Kerns

A good friend recently gave notice that he wanted to retire from a job he’s had since he was just a tiny puppy. My dog Woody’s best friend Samson, who has never weighed as much as five pounds, has been going to work with my friend Leonora since he was a 3-week-old foster puppy—and recently, he started telling Leonora that he doesn’t want to go to work any more.

Leonora is an instructional assistant at the school in our county’s Juvenile Hall; she helps the kids there with their school work, which is no small feat in such a stressful environment. All of the students in this school have been in trouble with the law, and what’s more, most of them have come from extremely troubled families and are far, far behind in their grades’ educational standards (think high-school kids reading at the third-grade level).

When Leonora was fostering Samson and his five brothers for our local animal shelter, she asked her boss if she could bring the tiny puppies to work a few times, to have the kids help socialize the puppies. If this sounds scary to you, let me assure you that it was not; these tough kids, from hard-knock lives, took exquisite care of the pups—and early on, started rooting for Leonora to keep the tiniest one of the already small puppies. Leonora herself was also falling for the smallest pup; she didn’t need a lot of convincing that perhaps the fragile but determined puppy might be a special guy. I think that Samson was only about 8 weeks old when she decided that she was going to adopt him.

Samson was always a small dog with a big heart.
The kids at Juvenile Hall who helped socialize Samson and his five littermates when they were foster puppies unanimously decided that Samson—the tiniest pup in the litter—was the one that Leonora should keep.

Impressed with the calming influence that the puppies had exerted on the students, Leonora’s bosses agreed with her request to bring Samson to work every day once she had adopted him. He had small beds in several locations, including in the staff office and on her desk in the classroom, but he also spent tons of time walking through the classroom and choosing students to spend time with. Before he was five months old, he was already showing great skill at finding the lap of students who were in a particularly emotionally vulnerable state and refusing to leave them.

Guards who worked in the housing section of juvenile hall sometimes came to the school wing to ask Leonora if Samson could come to visit a student who refused to leave their cell in the morning. Leonora would go with the guard and sit on the floor outside the kid’s room and ask how they were doing; would they like Samson to come and sit with them for a bit? She’d sit quietly as Samson would wag his way into the kid’s cell. He instinctively seemed to know whether scampering or approaching quietly was called for. Usually, after a time with Samson in their lap—this tiny infusion of nonjudgmental love and acceptance—the kid would feel up to facing his or her day in captivity and come out of their room for a meal or to join the other kids back in the school wing.

Leonora also used Samson as an instructional tool; she used him as an introduction to dozens of classroom lessons on topics from psychology and learning theory (she would demonstrate how to teach new behaviors with positive reinforcement, and let the students teach Samson new tricks) to what is required to responsibly care for others—rather pertinent for kids who had seldom received responsible care themselves, and even more so for the teens who are themselves already parents.

It wasn’t just the kids that Samson provided comfort and affection to; many of the staff members looked forward to interacting with the cheerful little dog when they crossed his path in the labyrinthine halls between the housing units, the exercise areas, and the school sections of Juvenile Hall. Samson had short daily visits with many of his friends and fans, from the jail guards in their heavy boots and stiff uniforms, to the teachers and counselors in the school, to the administrative staff in the office. Some would just say hi and give him a smile; others were compelled to pick him up and allow him to lick their beards or hands; others would ask him to perform his “tricks.” He is just so tiny and vulnerable, and so relentlessly good-natured and friendly, that few could resist responding to and interacting with him.

Though Samson is a naturally friendly guy, Leonora also invested in his “professional development,” taking him to group classes for puppies, adults, agility, and therapy dog training. She and Samson also became and maintained their status as certified Pet Partners—a registered therapy dog/handler team.

Woody and his best friend Samson who never reached a fraction of his size.
Samson’s top weight never reached five pounds—a fraction of his best friend Woody’s size. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I have gotten to hear about all of this first-hand, because Leonora and I frequently walk our dogs together and my dogs often stay with her when I am out of town. But I’ve also gotten to see it for myself, because Leonora has invited me to come to Juvenile Hall as a guest speaker several times to talk to the kids about dog training. I took Otto, a couple of times. The Hall leadership has had a longstanding rule that disallows visits from any type of dog that is popular with gangs, so until very recently, my block-headed mixed-breed Woody was not allowed to come and be a demonstration dog, but scruffy Boone—who, according to the DNA tests, has more bully-breed representation in his genetic makeup than Woody, has been allowed in several times. Only a chance meeting between Leonora, me, my dogs, and the administrator of the Juvenile Hall school in the Hall parking lot got the administrator to say that Boone and Woody could come in for a visit. Boone and Woody both loved hanging out with and doing tricks for the kids—but Woody was not particularly comfortable with the sound of distant slamming doors; he would growl and his hair would stand up when he heard the booming and clanging sounds, and so I won’t bring him back again.

In contrast, for nine years, Samson has been happily working in this environment.

But very recently, Samson’s behavior has started to change. On some days, he started remaining in his bed as Leonora was getting ready for work, instead of running to and standing by the door, ready to jump in the car, like he’s done all previous nine years of his life; on those days, Leonora would let him stay home. But then, on some of the days when he had asked to go to work, Samson started standing by the door that leads to the employee parking lot long before the day was over, and refusing to come to her when Leonora called him back to the classroom or even the staff office.

After just a few iterations of this, Leonora told me, as well as her fellow staff members, that she was going to retire Samson. Several of them objected! But on one of Samson’s final days at Juvenile Hall, the school administrator also witnessed Samson’s refusal to come back to the classroom after a break outdoors, and he sadly backed Leonora’s decision to stop bringing Samson to work.

In a beautiful event, the staff threw Samson a retirement party. Leonora was stunned, teary and speechless, when they presented her with a plaque and certificate of appreciation for Samson’s contributions to the school.

A certification presented to a service dog upon retirement in thanks.
Credit: Nancy Kerns
Credit: Nancy Kerns

Samson is still a happy, healthy guy. He still snuggles with his lifelong best friend Woody when Woody stays at Leonora’s house. He and Leonora still join me and my dogs on walks in our local wildlife area, and he still loves to meet and greet people when Leonora takes him with her on errands around town. He’s just dialed his social calendar down in favor of more time in his heated bed at home—and I have the utmost of respect and love for my friend Leonora for paying such close attention to and meeting that and every one of Samson’s other needs. I’m sure that the kids and staff—and Leonora herself—miss him during the weekdays. But as she told me, he’s earned his retirement a million times his tiny bodyweight.

 

Happy retirement, Samson!

Potty Training Regression

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With training a dog will find ways to signal the need to go potty to their owners.
With consistent training and your attention, dogs develop “tell” signals to indicate they need to potty. A classic tell is sitting at the door, staring at you. Credit: Os Tartarouchos | Getty Images

Many rescue and shelter dogs are listed as potty trained. But, in fairness to the shelter, it can be difficult to ascertain whether a dog is truly potty trained in a shelter environment. Some shelters are well-staffed, but others aren’t, which makes regular potty breaks difficult. It can be easier in a foster home, but not always. So, adopting a dog that is having potty accidents happens, but it’s not the worst thing—you can usually fix it.

Potty training an older dog is not difficult. You only need to get your dog on a suitable schedule for that is appropriate for them and fits your own schedule. Dogs love routines and respond well to predictability.

How to Potty Train A Dog

Potty training an older dog, whether due to potty-training regression or no training at all, is like potty training a puppy. The difference is that adult dogs have the physical ability to hold their elimination needs considerably longer than puppies. They may not know that, though, so you can help them learn. But that fact doesn’t mean that you can fast forward through the typical protocol suggestions. Consistent, methodical training is how you get a potty-trained dog. Here are the steps:

  • The usual protocol is to take your dog out first thing in the morning (before you do anything else aside from maybe a bathroom trip yourself) and actively supervise the dog. Bring treats so you can immediately reward the dog for an elimination. Be as enthusiastic as the dog’s temperament can allow once pottying occurs. Sound happy, even softly happy. I name the outings for pottying needs, as in “Let’s go potty!” This is for the future goal of expediency and focus. An additional reward for fast elimination can include a sniffari in the yard or a walk afterward. My preference is getting down to business first.
  • You may need to take your dog out again after breakfast. Meals should be at specific time frames/situational time frames, versus free feeding, to best determine bowel elimination needs. Each dog is different with how long they may need to eliminate after a meal. The age of the dog is also important as younger dogs process food much more quickly in general. When a dog starts sniffing the floor after meals, that is the cue to take them out just in case. My motto is, “When in doubt, take them out.”
  • Active supervision. Taking them out every few hours is a good general rule for adult potty training but, again, active supervision on your part when your dog is awake and mobile means that you are more likely to get them outside before they sneak off and you find a surprise.
  • Crating your new dog when home alone helps prevent accidents. But keep in mind that no dog should be left crated for lengthy periods. Especially with a new dog, it can cause emotional trauma. If you work outside of the home for a regular business day, then please consider a midday potty break courtesy of a dog walker/pet sitter.
  • The last potty of the day should be right before heading to bed, regardless of where your dog will sleep. Ideally, they will be sleeping in an area near enough to you that you may hear them whine in the middle of the night if they have to potty then.
  • Night Location. The dog’s overnight accommodation should be thought out with the possibility that if they are confined in some way, they will be unlikely to eliminate where they are sleeping. That can mean a crate, but it can also mean an ex-pen, preferably near where you sleep for both easy bonding as well as being within hearing range.

Every dog parent always wants to teach their dog to tell them that they need to go outside to potty. The thing is that your dog will develop their own “tell.” It’s up to you to be observant enough to notice what that is. The most common ones are walking to the door that is used most frequently for exiting to potty, coming up to you and staring at you, barking at a door, barking at you, and looking at you and then in the direction of the door. Dogs that have not been potty trained may not yet know what their “tell” is, but they will develop one. You need to look for it.

Puppy Potty Training Regression

If you’ve adopted a puppy who might have only been partially potty trained, just stick with the same above routine suggestions but add this step: When your puppy is playing heavily, they may simply stop playing and pee right where they are. This is perfectly normal, so don’t be alarmed or yell at them. Plan for this in future play sessions. Teach a take a break somewhere midway through the usual length of a play session to go out for a potty attempt. This will help your older puppy remember that telling you during play is the same as telling you at any other time.

It is also normal that an older puppy who gave you the impression that they were solidly potty-trained starts having accidents again somewhere around 7 months of age. That seems to be the common time frame where potty regressions can regularly occur. Just go back to basics as a refresher. Consistency and observation skills truly are your friends in a solid potty-training plan.  Please don’t give up on your dog because of potty training regressions. This truly is the easiest issue to resolve.

Dare You Double-Dog Leash?

A double dog leash can be a solution for walking two dogs at the same time.
Safely using a two-dog leash requires that the dogs are of a similar size and both are well trained to walk on a leash. Credit: Photo courtesy of Debby McMullen, CDBC

I cannot count how many times clients with more than one dog have asked me whether it’s an option to use a leash coupler or two-dog leash. My usual response is probably not, but that is not always the case.

Let’s start with the reasons you should not consider this option:

  • One or more of your dogs are reactive on leash. Enough said there. Truly, you do not want to end up in a tangled heap on the pavement from triggers you cannot predict.
  • Your dogs have vastly different walking styles. For example, one of your dogs has active goals that include covering as much ground as possible while stopping strategically to sniff certain spots, while the other one really enjoys a slow stroll sniffing all the pee-mail and leaving a response when appropriate. A double leash with two dogs like this will simply create frustration at best and conflict at worst.
  • One of your dogs is considerably larger than the other. A two-dog leash in this case can cause unintended physical injury.
  • One or both of your dogs has less-than-stellar loose-leash walking skills. Even small dogs can pull so hard that you can face plant. Developing leash skills in advance of trying a coupler is an important first step.
  • Your dogs simply tolerate one another rather than having a solid relationship. Using a double-dog leash with this kind of dynamic present can be a recipe for disaster.
  • Both your dogs are young enough to enjoy wrestling together frequently. As someone whose giant breed puppy just turned 1 year old, the early days of walking both of my young dogs together were full-on wrestling events at times. Had I been using a leash coupler, it would have been impossible to easily redirect this behavior.

Now, of course, there are scenarios where a double-dog leash is not only a good idea, but it can also make your walk easier since there won’t be any tangled leashes. They do exist! A double-dog leash might work for you if:

  • You have two small- to medium-size dogs who have both a good relationship with you as well as with each other, along with having similar walking styles and preferences. Often bonded pairs look to each other for confidence and camaraderie in many contexts and outside the big world, this is usually more evident. The double-dog leashes can add to their emotional safety.
  • You have two senior dogs who are more interested in their time with you and sniffing the world that the mileage covered. Of course, they should already be comfortable with one another as well as comfortable on leash. Dogs of a certain age just prefer meandering and pondering smells versus fast tracking.
  • You have two well-trained dogs who participate in dog sports that require the ability to be cued into what you need them to do while being attached to equipment that other dogs might view as cumbersome such as sledding. It’s not much of a stretch to train for walking in the neighborhood together cohesively when you have already trained for a complicated sport.

Whether you can successfully try a double dog-leash depends on many factors. The first thing, of course, is that both dogs already know how to walk quietly and politely on a leash. Basically, they both have “leash manners.” Safety for you matters, too, as injuries while walking dogs occur more frequently than you may have guessed.

A two-dog leash is a bad idea if one or both dogs pull on the leash. Please do make sure that you put the right thought into this beforehand for safety’s sake—safety of both you and your two dogs. (Some of these same rules apply to wearing a leash around your waist.)

What Is IVDD in Dogs?

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IVDD is a disk disease that cause weakness and pain for dog.
While long-backed, short-legged dogs like the Dachshund are believed to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, it can happen to any dog. Credit: Vsevolod Vlasenko | Getty Images

Intervertebral disk disease (IVDD) is a painful, debilitating spinal cord disease. Sadly, humane euthanasia of an affected dog is sometimes considered. Long-backed, short-legged dogs are thought to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, but any dog can develop the disease.

The two categories of IVDD are:

Hansen Type I: This involves traumatic rupture (herniation) of the intervertebral disk. If the disk material is ejected upward, it will cause pain to the dorsal longitudinal ligament and could compress the spinal cord, resulting in nerve dysfunction. If the disk material is ejected sideways, it could affect the roots of the spinal nerves, causing pain and nerve dysfunction. Approximately 25% of Dachshunds experience Type I disease at some point in their lifetime.

Hansen Type II: This is a slower degenerative disease in which the annulus fibrosis wears away, causing the intervertebral disk to slowly impinge on the dorsal longitudinal ligament, the spinal cord, or the roots of spinal nerves over a period of months to years. Type II disease is mostly seen in German Shepherd Dogs.

IVDD in Dogs Stages

Clinical signs of IVDD vary with the disease’s progress. The earliest stage of IVDD is localized pain. With increasing severity of the disease, signs may include:

  • Poor proprioception, which is the dog’s ability to recognize where the limbs are in space
  • Inability to use one or more limbs
  • Impairment of the muscles that control urinary and fecal continence
  • Decreasing ability to detect superficial pain that may increase to deep pain

Diagnosing IVDD in Dogs

A diagnostic workup of suspected IVDD starts with a neurologic exam and evaluation for pain. Other problems with similar symptoms, such as vertebral fracture or dislocation, a tumor affecting the spinal canal or the nearby spinal nerves, or a fibrocartilaginous embolism (FCE), will be ruled out to make the diagnosis of IVDD.

Proprioception: Conscious proprioception reflexes are tested by flipping the paws of a standing dog upside down so that the top of the paw is on the floor. A normal dog will flip the paw right back into normal orientation with the pads of the paws facing the floor. General proprioception can be tested by leaning the dog to the side with support, to see if the paw automatically adjusts position to prevent a potential fall.

Gait: The dog’s gait will be evaluated. Dogs with proprioceptive defects may audibly or visibly scuff their feet as they walk, and the claws on the affected paws may be much shorter than on unaffected limbs because of the scuffing. Dogs may be ataxic (uncoordinated gait), sometimes in just the rear limbs (giving a clue to location of disk herniation).

Anus: The anus is examined for muscular tone and incontinence.

Ability to feel pain: In dogs who are unable to use their limbs, a strong pinch is applied between the toes of the affected limb. If the dog doesn’t withdraw their paw from the noxious stimulus, they are considered to lack deep pain.

Testing: X-rays may help determine if there is a fracture or dislocation causing the clinical signs. Sometimes mineralized disk material can be visualized, and sometimes there is a narrowing of the intervertebral space, giving clues as to where disk herniation may have occurred.

More sophisticated diagnostic tests may include myelography, CT scan, or MRI, which can help localize the precise location of spinal cord compression.

Treatment for IVDD in Dogs

An important treatment of IVDD is exercise restriction. Restriction to a crate is best, with trips outside on a short leash, only to toilet.

If the dog’s symptoms are relatively mild, medical treatment with steroids or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) could be considered, along with muscle relaxants and other pain medication. Treatment with cold therapeutic laser can relieve discomfort. Mild oral sedatives can help keep a normally active dog quieter and less anxious.

If the clinical signs are severe (paralysis, incontinence), surgery might be an option, with the goal of relieving the compression of the spinal cord. Surgery is not a guarantee of a return to function, and usually there is a long course of physical rehabilitation therapy needed to help the dog walk again. The therapy can include in-office exercises and manipulations, underwater treadmill therapy, and a home exercise program.

IVDD: Home Care

If the dog recovers from a bout of IVDD, it is recommended to consider removing activities that involve jumping and quick turning from the dog’s lifestyle. This includes things like fetch, agility training, and off-leash hiking.

If surgery is not opted for, or if surgery was unsuccessful in returning function, options include using a cart to help the dog regain some mobility and beginning home nursing care, where the owner learns to do the expression of the urinary bladder and manage fecal incontinence. Home nursing care for a paralyzed dog requires a great deal of commitment in time and energy, however, and if the owner cannot commit to that level of care, humane euthanasia may be considered.

Why Mixed Breed Dogs Offer Unique Appeal

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Mixed breed dogs, or mutts over genetic diversity and a range of traits compared to pure breeds.
Choosing a mixed-breed puppy from a shelter may give you the chance to mingle with pups from a variety of backgrounds to see if one of them feels like a fit for you. Credit: Slavica | Getty Images

You won’t see them strutting their stuff at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, but mixed-breeds (aka mutts) bring their own special charm.

While purebred or designer breeds offer predictability in looks, size, temperament, and traits such as prey drive and energy levels, don’t sell short the “super mutt,” as described by Michelle Cote, trainer and founder of Mutts Melding Mankind. With “multiple breeds in their DNA,” these dogs have diverse personalities “due to a more diverse gene pool.” For this reason, she prefers them for her organization, which places service dogs with veterans.

While opting for a purebred or designer breed offers what some owners want in a canine companion, such as when looking for a dog for a senior, adopting a mixed breed dog not only provides a loving home for a deserving animal but also helps reduce the demand for puppies from puppy mills and unethical breeders, Cote says. If you go to a reputable shelter or rescue, you will be exposed to an abundance of cute, charming mutts looking for a home. And, at most reputable shelters, the staff can guide you to choosing the right mixed breed pup (or abandoned purebred).

What Is a Mutt Dog?

While definitions may vary, mutts (aka, mixed-breed dogs) result from breeding either purebreds or other mixed-breed dogs. What sets them apart from designer breeds is that they are usually the result of accidental matings. Therefore, it’s difficult, if not impossible, to predict what puppies will look like or how they’ll behave. Each mutt is a blend of its parents’ breeds, resulting in a combination of appearance and temperament. You never quite know what personality and physical traits you’ll get, making every mutt a special surprise and a unique personality.

Are Mutts Healthier?

Like many simple questions, the answer to “are mutts healthier than purebreds” is a complicated one. A recent study led by researchers at Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences, based on data collected from the Dog Aging Project on 27,000 dogs (13,923 mixed-breed dogs and 13,618 purebreds), attempts to answer it.

The results, published in the journal  Frontiers in Veterinary Science, suggest that while certain breeds may be more prone to specific medical disorders, purebred and mixed-breed dogs are mostly equal when it comes to the frequency of overall health condition diagnoses. According to the report, some conditions, such as dental calculus and osteoarthritis, were reported at roughly the same frequency in purebred and mixed-breed dogs. However, other conditions were more common in one than the other: Extracted teeth and dog bites were more common in purebreds, while ear infections were more common in mixed-breed dogs.

The Science of Mixed Breeds

Overall, the number of health-related issues may be similar. However, according to the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, there is a scientific reason why some issues are more prevalent among purebred dogs. Mixed-breed dogs usually mate randomly and whelp without human intervention, suggesting some natural selection involved if an individual fails to thrive. “The occurrence of common genetic diseases in mixed-breed individuals occurs randomly due to dispersed ancient liability genes,” according to the association. “Uncommon and breed-specific recessive or complexly inherited disease is far less likely in mixed-breed individuals.”

Mutts: the American Dream Dog

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, approximately 53% of dogs in the United States are mixed-breed dogs.  For a country based on a healthy mix of nationalities, it’s fitting that more than half the dogs in the United States are mixed breeds. But mutt, designer breed, or purebred, there is no bad dog.

What is Skijoring?

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Skijoring is a winter sport for dogs that challenges the athleticism of both the dog and skier.
In the discipline of skijoring shown here, the dog pulls a pulk (small, low sled) with the handler skiing behind. Credit: Courtesy of Jessica Häggqvis

If you’ve ever dreamed of your dog pulling you while you run, ski, or bike, there are dog sports for all of those activities. For winter sport lovers, skijoring is an excellent way to get out and enjoy the snow with dogs.

Whether you’re a seasoned cross-country skier looking to bring your dog along for the ride or you’ve never skied before, here’s how to get involved in skijoring.

What is Skijoring?

Skijoring is similar to canicross, where a dog is attached to you by a bungee line connected to a special pulling harness. For both skijoring and canicross, your dog’s bungee line will be attached to a special canicross or joring belt that you wear.

Skijoring uses the skate style of Nordic or cross-country skiing, as opposed to the classic Nordic style. If you’re a downhill skier, you’ll need different gear (and different skills!) to try out skijoring.

How To Get Involved in Skijoring

First, you’ll need to ensure your dog is suitable for skijoring. Many northern breeds like Samoyeds, Huskies, and Malamutes are great for pulling-focused sports because they were bred to pull. However, other breeds like Border Collies, German Shorthaired Pointers, and mixed breeds also often enjoy the sport, so breed isn’t a barrier to entry. As long as your dog likes to run, they can be taught to skijor.

The biggest consideration before getting your dog involved in skijoring is if they’re old enough and healthy enough to handle pulling. Many people wait until dogs are between one and a half and two years old before introducing pulling to ensure their joints are fully developed before putting stress on them.

Once you’ve decided if your dog is a good candidate for skijoring, you’ll want to start building your skijoring community and learning more about the sport.

“I think the best way to get involved is both joining a club for skiing and training your skiing skills and joining a skijoring club to give your dog experience,” says Jessica Häggqvis, a skijoring competitor based in Sweden.

Skijoring is a club activity with clubs in colder parts of the US and abroad.
When participating in sports like skijoring, consider using dog boots to protect paws. Credit: Courtesy of Melissa Whittinslow.

Melissa Whittinslow, a recreational skijorer based in Colorado who runs Samoyeds, agrees that group and club meetups are great ways to learn about skijoring. She says that you’d likely be able to borrow gear to try and take advantage of trained dogs who can help teach your dog the game at meetups. Look on Facebook for local groups and clubs centered around mushing and other winter dog sports.

If you live in a state with lots of ski resorts, you may also be able to take skate skiing lessons at a Nordic center without your dog. “Most Nordic centers will offer lessons for humans to learn foundational skills and techniques,” says Devin Walker, a skijoring enthusiast with a background in Nordic racing based in Colorado. “Skijoring isn’t a big sport in the United States like it is in Europe, but if you poke around social media, you can often find groups near you.”

Walker says that she recommends people learn to skate ski on their own without their dog first, and that skijoring is much more fun for the dog and handler if the human is comfortable on skis.

Walker mentions that Nordic skis don’t have edges, which can take a while to get the hang of. She recommends taking lessons or learning from an experienced friend on your own before you introduce your dog to the sport.

Though it’s important to learn how to skate ski to participate in skijoring, you don’t have to be a perfect skier to enjoy dog skiing. “I’ve been at world championships with competitors/skiers who are just standing straight not doing anything so there’s many ways to participate,” says Häggqvist.

How To Train Your Dog to Skijor

Teaching your dog commands on the ground first is a great entry level point to skijoring. Once you have a suitable harness, a belt, and a line, you can start teaching skijoring commands without skis, which is essentially canicross.

“Many people who skijor also do canicross, as it allows for year-round training,” says Walker, who skijors and runs canicross with her rescue dog, Ruby.

Whittinslow also started out in skijoring by teaching her dogs commands while running canicross. “I was a long-distance runner when I was younger, so this came easier for me,” she says.

Some of the basic commands dogs need to know for skijoring are:

  • Line out: Put tension in the line before starting
  • Hike: Go faster
  • Gee: Right
  • Haw: Left
  • Woah: Slow down
  • On by: Move past a distraction

When introducing your dog to skiing, Walker recommends starting slow and getting them used to skis, snow, and the sounds and motions of the skis on snow. “Sensitive dogs may need some time to get used to the sounds,” she says. “Be positive, be excited, and praise your dog frequently!”

Dog Skijoring Gear

In addition to skate skis, poles, and other human cross-country skiing gear, there’s some dog-specific gear you’ll need before you can start skijoring with dogs.

“You want to start with a bungee/tug line that is long enough for your dog to get out from your skis,” says Walker. “The human needs a belt, and the dog needs a pulling-specific harness. I strongly suggest having a quick-release mechanism attached to the belt for skijoring, for added safety.”

If your dog has long or curly hair or is sensitive to the cold, dog boots can also be a good idea to have on your gear list. You’ll avoid snowballs in their fur and will be able to stay out longer if your dog’s paws are sensitive. Häggqvis says that whether or not you’ll need booties depends on the dog and the snow you’re working with. Some snow can be sharp and icy, so keeping booties on hand is a good idea in case you run into less-than-stellar conditions.

If your dog doesn’t like booties, you can also use Musher’s Secret or another paw wax or paw balm to protect your pup’s feet from the cold.

Can You Compete in Dog Skijoring?

Before trying skijoring talk to someone experienced with the sport.
For those who want to compete in skijoring in the U.S., look for local clubs that host events. Credit: Keela McCleneghan

You can compete in skijoring, but you’ll need to do a bit of work to find local races in the United States. According to Walker, the best bet for finding races is by joining local mushing and sled dog clubs who put on events. For example, in Colorado, Colorado Mountain Mushers and Rocky Mountain Sled Dog Club often host winter race events with skijoring classes. You can also watch kicksledding and bigger sled teams during these events.

 

 

 

Should I Try Skijoring With My Dog?

All the current skijoring teams we chatted with recommended trying skijoring out with someone who has experience. “Having another dog to run with can really make a big difference in helping a new dog understand the game,” says Walker. “And it’s always helpful to get a second opinion on the fit of your dog’s harness when just getting started. Skijoring is so much fun, and it’s a great way to stay active with your dog in the winter, I’d highly recommend trying it out!”

“I know getting into skijoring can seem scary or not practical when you don’t know how to ski, but don’t let this stop you,” says Whittinslow. She says that the best thing about skijoring is that you don’t have to be a stellar skier to participate. “I love just being outdoors with my dogs working and learning together.”

Take the Canine Good Citizen Test

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The canine good citizen test for dogs examines how well dogs react to touch, grooming, and gretting others.
Both of my dogs are friendly to humans and other dogs. I had every confidence that they would have no problem with being groomed or petted (as Boone is appreciating here), but worried (with good reason) that they might not be able to resist politely greeting a human who approached and greeted us.. Credit: Sarah Richardson

I have been aware of the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen program for ages, and I always imagined that my dogs would rather easily pass the test. After all, I’ve put hundreds of hours into training them and consider them to be very friendly, well trained, and well-mannered.

An opportunity arose to take the test at my friend’s training center and I thought, “What the heck? Let’s get a title on these mutts!” Never mind that I opted for this opportunity two days before the test.

However, once I started looking over the specific behaviors to be tested, I identified two items that were likely to be our Achilles heel:

In the first, “Accepting a friendly stranger,” your dog is supposed to stay more or less still—at least, not move toward a person who approaches you and your dog and then greets you. If the dog steps in front of you to greet the person, he flunks, even if he is calm and doesn’t jump and isn’t unfriendly; he’s supposed to remain at your side. Shoot; both of my dogs are super friendly and very likely to move toward a person who greets me, if only to sniff their shoes and solicit petting.

The canine good citizen award tests a dog's self control.
Both of my dogs are reliable at performing the basic behaviors of sit, down, stand, stay, and walking politely on leash. But we just haven’t practiced resisting a greeting! Photo credit: Sarah Richardson

In the second, the setup is essentially the same. You walk forward with your dog in a heel position, and a person walks toward you with their dog in a heel position; then both handlers stop and have a brief interaction. Both dogs are on the outside (as if passengers in the passenger seat of a car, with “drivers” stopped and talking to each other out the driver’s window). Your dog is not permitted to cross in front of you—either to greet, sniff, or menace the other person or their dog. I did think my dogs would be able to ignore the other dog, but again, I thought that it was likely that they would want to sniff or greet the other human. I was right about the test items that would be hardest for my dogs, but not the specific part of each challenge.

We practiced this behavior for, oh, at least two minutes apiece, in front of the training center right before the test. And guess what? That’s not enough practice time!

The results of the canine good citizen tests with a failing grade.
The results for Boone and Woody were the same: We flunked at the same item, with both dogs failing to heed my “Off!” and “Stay!” cues and stepping in front of me in order to try to sniff or greet the other dog. Their reactions were mild, but a failure nonetheless!

The results for both dogs (and me!) were identical; they flunked on the same item, “Reaction to Another Dog,” though I thought they would easily ignore the dog and be focused more on greeting the human. However, though they both displayed a brief interest in the human (whom, with prompting, they were able to keep themselves from greeting in the first test item (“Accepting a Friendly Stranger”), and happily got to know in item 2 (“Sitting Politely for Petting”) and #3 (Appearance and Grooming,” where the evaluator brushes the dog and examines his ears and each front foot), they both took too much interest in the other dog. Despite more prompting (my repeated use of the “Off!” cue), both stepped in front of me in an attempt to sniff or greet the other dog. Womp, womp, that’s a fail, even if they didn’t pull hard, leap about, or growl. They were supposed to stay at my side, and despite being cued to “Stay,” and “Off” (same as “Leave it”), they didn’t.

These results were not of great importance to me, but I do feel challenged now to sign up for the next local offering of this test, and actually train and practice for it. Though I feel that the expectations of the test should be within every dog’s easy ability to accomplish, clearly they take a bit more training and practice to pass, even with very well behaved dogs!

Note that at no time did I issue any sort of rebuke, tight leash, or yank of a “correction” to my dogs, even though it’s likely that both of them would have readily heeded my “Off!” cue had I been more intense about it. Passing at any cost wasn’t the point; if I couldn’t get them to pay attention to and perform the desired behaviors for my normal cues and tone, then I need to practice this with them. And the truth is, I so seldom walk them on leash in the presence of strangers and strange dogs that we effectively have only rarely practiced these specific behaviors. Having the expectation of certain behaviors without practicing them is just dumb!

Even though this was a formal test in a controlled and artificial setting, the experience was a great reminder to me that it’s not smart to have expectations of our dogs for behaviors that we don’t specifically practice! We expect them to generalize their knowledge about things (such as “Stay” and “Off”), but if we don’t practice these behaviors in a wide array of conditions, we certainly can’t blame them for failing to demonstrate them under different conditions than the few environments and situations we do practice in.

Boone, Woody, and I will be practicing to ace that CGC as soon as we possibly can.

Do you think you and your dogs could pass this test?

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) in Dogs

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Progressive retinal atrophy is a genetic mutation that causes blindness over time.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) cannot be prevented in dogs that have inherited the genetic mutations that cause the condition. Most at-risk dogs can be tested for PRA before symptoms are noticed. Credit: AngelPietro | Getty Images

Bumping into furniture, reluctance to go outside at night—these are signs of visual impairment. There are several causes of visual impairment and blindness in dogs—one of those causes is progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).

PRA is the gradual destruction of photoreceptors in the retina. The retina is located at the back of the eye. Photoreceptors in the retina capture light that enters the eye and convert the light into electrical signals. These signals are sent to the brain through the optic nerve. The brain converts these electrical signals into an image of what your dog sees.

There are two types of photoreceptors in the retina—rods and cones. Rods are responsible for detecting the level of light (or brightness) and motion. Cones are responsible for detecting color. Unlike humans, dogs only have two types of cones and can perceive the colors blue and yellow but not red and green.

PRA begins with the loss of rods in the retina. This causes dogs to develop night blindness, also known as nyctalopia. Dogs with nyctalopia may initially exhibit reluctance to go outside after dark. As more rods are destroyed, these dogs will develop difficulty tracking moving objects in dim light and then in brighter light.

PRA will progress from destruction of rods to loss of cones in the retina. As cones are destroyed, dogs with PRA will gradually lose visual acuity and eventually become blind. Since their vision loss is gradual, these dogs will have created a mental map of their environment. They may not show symptoms of visual impairment until they are introduced to a new environment (like a new home) or if their current home is remodeled or the furniture rearranged.

Causes of Progressive Retinal Atrophy in Dogs

PRA is an inherited condition in dogs. Certain breeds of dogs are more likely to inherit the gene mutations necessary to cause PRA. These include (but are not limited to) Poodles, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Irish Setters, and Shetland Sheepdogs.

You can have your dog tested for the gene mutations that are known to be associated with the development of PRA. The American Kennel Club (AKC) offers DNA testing for PRA and other inherited conditions through Neogen. The University of California at Davis (UC Davis) offers testing for the PRA gene mutations of specific breeds. Both laboratories complete testing on a cheek swab sample that you can collect at home and submit by mail to the laboratory.

Testing your dog for the gene mutations that are associated with development of PRA will give you more information about whether your dog is likely to develop PRA. Dogs that possess the necessary gene mutations should undergo an annual examination with a veterinary ophthalmologist to screen for development of PRA.

Not all of the gene mutations associated with developing PRA have been identified. Research into the genetics of PRA is ongoing and our knowledge of the gene mutations behind this condition continues to grow.

Diagnosing PRA in Dogs

Proper diagnosis of PRA in your dog will require a visit to a veterinary ophthalmologist. Your dog will receive a complete ophthalmologic exam, including an electroretinogram (ERG). An ERG records the electrical activity of the retina when exposed to light. Dogs with PRA will have characteristic changes to their retinal electrical activity due to the destruction of photoreceptors in the retina.

The ERG takes about 20 to 30 minutes to complete. Your dog is first placed in a completely dark room for about 15 minutes. This immersion into darkness makes the retina particularly sensitive to light.

The pupils will need to be dilated for this test. If your dog’s pupils are not already dilated, a drop of a pupil dilation solution (such as tropicamide ophthalmic solution) will be instilled in each eye. Then a drop of a cornea numbing solution (such as proparacaine or tetracaine) is applied to the surface of each eye. This numbs the surface of the cornea in preparation for the ERG.

A contact lens that contains an electrode is applied to the surface of your dog’s cornea. Two electrodes are applied to your dog’s skin. One electrode is placed at the top of his skull and the other is placed next to the eye being tested.

Pulses of light are shone into the eye being tested. Electrical activity of the retina is recorded by the electrodes and the output is displayed on a computer. Characteristic changes in the retinal electrical activity confirm the diagnosis of PRA.

Your dog needs to sit still without moving his head during the ERG. Most dogs will require a sedative for the procedure. Some dogs may need to be briefly anesthetized to facilitate completion of the ERG.

Treatment and Prognosis for Dogs with PRA

There is no way to prevent the development of PRA in dogs. All dogs that have been diagnosed with PRA will lose their sight. PRA is not a painful condition. Most dogs will adjust to being visually impaired and lead a full and happy life.

A supplement called Ocu-GLO may have a protective effect on the retina. Anecdotal evidence appears to indicate that Ocu-GLO may slow the progression of PRA, although more research is necessary to prove this effect. Ocu-GLO and other eye supplements will not stop dogs from going blind due to PRA.

Dogs with PRA are at increased risk for developing cataracts. Cataracts are a clouding of the lens in the middle of the eye. Molecules released by the photoreceptors as they degenerate can be toxic to the lens and cause a cataract to develop.

Cataracts can cause proteins to leak from the damaged lens. These proteins can cause inflammation of the inner lining of the eye—this is called uveitis. Uveitis can cause an increase in the intraocular pressure of the eye—this is called glaucoma. Glaucoma is a painful condition that can be treated if it is detected early.

Some breeds that are at increased risk of developing PRA are also at risk for developing hereditary cataracts. Like PRA, hereditary cataracts occur in dogs that have inherited the gene mutations that cause this condition. Breeds that are genetically predisposed to developing PRA and hereditary cataracts include (but are not limited to) the American Cocker Spaniel, Labrador Retriever, and Australian Shepherd.

Dogs that have been diagnosed with PRA should undergo regular ophthalmologic exams with their primary care veterinarian to screen for the development of cataracts and glaucoma. This exam should include a test of the intraocular pressure in each eye. Intraocular pressures are measured with a device called a tonometer. If your dog’s intraocular pressures are high, then your veterinarian will prescribe one or more eye medications to treat your dog’s glaucoma.

Most dogs with PRA will gradually lose their vision and become blind over a period of one to two years. The speed at which your dog will become blind from PRA will depend on his breed and the underlying genetic cause of his condition.

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Changing Dog Food Too Quickly

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Changing dog food too quickly can have a variety of symptoms.
A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. Credit: ti-ja | Getty Images

For some dog owners, switching dog food is not a big deal. These dogs often sail through switching dog foods without a transition period, especially if they’re already eating a varied diet.

If your dog is used to a constant variety of dog food, as has always been recommended by Whole Dog Journal, he may not require a transition. Many dogs can eat a wide variety of ingredients and foods and will tolerate a rotational diet, provided the protein and fat levels of the foods you’re choosing are similar.

If you’ve always fed the “same” food and need to change, a slow transition will be easiest for you and your dog.

Switching Dog Food

A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. The only exception, of course, is in the event of a food recall when you must stop feeding the bad food immediately. Otherwise, plan to go slowly to avoid gastrointestinal upset like diarrhea. If this is done properly, your dog is unlikely to have any problems.

The standard recommendation for how to mix food when switching from one to another is 25% new food/75% old food for 3 or 4 days. Then, go to 50%/50% for 3 or 4 days. The next mix is 75% new/25% old for another 3 to 4 days. Then, you feed only the new diet. Most dogs handle this schedule just fine but there are some exceptions.

You may need a more gradual switch if your dog has been eating a raw diet or you are moving to a raw diet. Even going from a straight kibble diet to an all-canned food diet may require a slower approach over a longer course of time.

Protein Considerations in Switching Dog Food

Switching main protein sources can upset some dogs. If your dog has eaten chicken foods for years, and now you want to switch to beef, you may need to take more care and be aware of potential allergy reactions.

Changes within a brand, like going from chicken to rabbit but staying with Brand X, or changes that maintain the usual protein source, going from Brand X chicken to Brand Y chicken, are often the smoothest switches.

A gradual switch to a diet that is compatible with your dog should not cause any major health changes and certainly not be fatal. Dogs rarely have anaphylactic reactions to certain foods like people may experience.

Reactions to Switching Dog Food Too Quickly

On the other hand, some dogs do react to diet change, so you need to be aware and respond quickly. Signs to watch for include:

  • Dog isn’t eating well or is eating everything but the new food
  • Changes in bowel movements (soft stools are usually seen before diarrhea appears)
  • Frequency of bowel movements may change
  • Changes in thirst, such as he empties the water bowl multiple times a day

If your dog needs to change his diet, for example to a prescription diet, but has some diarrhea, back down on the amount of new food and build it up more slowly, like in 10% increments, not 25%.

It is also wise to add a probiotic whenever you make a diet change to help your dog’s microbiome adjust to the nutrient change.

Dog Food Change Helpers

If your dog needs the diet change for his health but doesn’t like the new food, ask your veterinarian about safe food “toppers” and appetite stimulants that might help. Warming the food or adding warm water can increase the odors and stimulate appetite as well.

Despite all these cautions, there are dogs known for their “garbage guts.” You could change the diet for these dogs every other day, no mixing or precautions, and they do just fine. Unfortunately, most of our dogs aren’t quite that accommodating, and it’s usually best to do a transition.

Crate Training a Puppy

Crate training a puppy provides the puppy with a safe secure space of their own.
One of the goals with puppy crate training is that your puppy feels safe, comfortable, and secure in his crate. Many puppies eventually seek out their crate for a quiet nap. Credit: cmannphoto | Getty Images

Crate training is a valuable skill, especially for puppies. A safe, secure, and properly sized puppy crate is the safest place for your puppy when you are not home, cannot supervise him, or the house is dangerously hectic (puppy might escape!). All my puppies were acquainted with a crate. Additionally, sometimes, such as in a natural disaster, a crate-trained dog can mean the difference between being able to take your dog with you to a safe space or not.

All responsible rescue groups as well as responsible breeders start the crate-training process before you even bring your puppy home. So, hopefully, your puppy won’t be a stranger to a crate. My puppy, who just turned 1 year old, was crate-trained before he came to me, but that did not mean that he embraced being crated in my home initially. We worked hard at this process.

Make Crate-Training Positive for Your Dog

Creating positive associations with the crate is a vital first step before leaving your puppy in a crate when home alone. Puppies sleeping in the crate in the same room that you sleep in helps create a conditioned response of safety. It’s also easy bonding. The family sleeping together in the same space helps a puppy sleep better. Crate training a puppy at night is the best start on this path.

You can make positive associations with a crate by tossing tiny high value treats into the crate so that your puppy goes in on his own. If you have additional dogs, prevent them from taking the puppy’s treats during this process, although the puppy will notice adult dogs easily going into the crate as a good example.

Soft verbal reinforcement when entering the crate is important. This should be done randomly at different times of the day if possible. Place food-dispensing toys inside. Don’t lure your puppy inside. Allow him to choose to go in and then reward him. He may remove the toys initially to enjoy them but, with repetition, he will lay inside and enjoy them instead.

Having the crate in a room where you regularly spend time with your puppy makes this practice part of the regular routine. When the puppy chooses to go inside the crate, you can randomly close the door very briefly. I stagger this, meaning sometimes I close it and sometimes I don’t. Not moving forward each time creates less anxiety about the protocol. If you are doing these repetitions frequently enough, it will become normal to use a time frame that your puppy may already be tired so that at some point, you can close the crate door and leave the room briefly (or not). “Or not” depends on what you hear when you do.

If crate training results in a crying puppy, you may have rushed things a bit. Returning for crying or whining is a bad idea. If you have done your due diligence, there should not be any crying or whining. Start crate training slowly. The exception is overnight sleeping, with the caveat that if your puppy cries to go potty in the middle of the night, please listen to them.

Puppy-Crate Safety

I have learned from experience that puppies can and will shred bedding and stuffed toys when home alone in a crate. This may create an issue of physical safety. I do not wish to come home to the possibility of an intestinal blockage—or worse—from a swallowed blanket, so I only provide safe-to-chew items in a crate when alone. Examples of these include Kong products designed for this, some Toppl products, Nylabones, and Benebones.

Toys and chews need to be appropriate for the puppy’s size and age. My own preference for a crate-safe enrichment includes smearable food on/in the chewing type toys. For the original Kong toy shaped like a snowman, please don’t jump straight to jamming hard treats or kibble inside and then freezing it with some liquid poured in or with added peanut butter to keep everything even more stuck. Here’s why: That is what I call a PhD-level Kong. You should start with a kindergarten-level Kong before you get to the PhD level. Also, a dog capable of emptying such a Kong when home with you there, may not have the same relaxed mental state to do the same in a crate when alone. Work your way up to that, if at all.

How I use Kongs like those is to cut a bunch of high-value treats such as boiled chicken or single-source meat hot dogs into tiny little pieces and show my puppy how to go about emptying it when I am home first. I make them loose and easy to get out initially. As the puppy grows more confident with this process, I might fill it a bit more so that the puppy must work a little harder. But I never get to the “pack it in and make it all stuck together” point.

I also like the Kong Goodie Ribbon as a potentially less frustrating option. Four holes on each side. Very visible, very difficult to ignore if you are using something high value, which is always important. I have strung boiled chicken through from one side to the other as well as turkey bacon. I also squirt some squeeze cheese on top as well as some whipped cream, alternating like I am decorating a cookie.

Note: Some professionals suggest feeding a puppy inside the crate, but I am not among them. I like to have my dogs eat meals when I do the same and the crate isn’t part of that equation.

You can also use an ex-pen (exercise pen), alternately known as a puppy pen, if room for a crate is an issue. Just make sure that the puppy cannot jump over it, climb up it, or move it. Some ex-pens have tops available to stop puppy climbing.

Safe Dog-Crating Tips

Some important points to note for crate and ex-pen usage:

  • Remove collars when crating. This eliminates the possibility of a tag catching on a crate spot and injuring the puppy.
  • Be mindful of how long your puppy will be crated when home alone. A common rule of thumb is 1 hour for every month of age. But that could then mean 8 hours for an 8-month-old dog, and I would strongly disagree. My own guideline is 4 to 5 hours, depending again on the puppy’s age, time of day, and what kind of enrichment and exercise they may have had prior to crating.
  • Your puppy’s crate should be in a room that you regularly spend time with him in. Basements or a room that is only used for the crate are not a good idea.
  • Do not use the crate for punishment such as a time out, etc. That will create the opposite of a positive association.
  • Size the crate appropriately. Most wire crates now come with a divider that can be moved or removed completely according to your puppy’s size. Wire crates are better options than closed in airline type crates.

Dog Socialization: Unleash Canine Confidence

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Signs of a poorly socialized dog should be recognized and addressed early on.
If a puppy is unsure about something new, give them time to observe. Don’t rush interactions. You can return to the situation another time, getting closer when the puppy is comfortable. Credit: Yuliya Movchan | Getty Images

Dogs are naturally social beings, but that doesn’t mean every puppy leaves the litter with social skills or that trauma can’t derail an adult dog who previously socialized with other dogs, people, and other animals.

What Is Dog Socialization?

Socialization is the process of preparing a dog to enjoy interactions and be comfortable with other animals, people, places, and activities, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA).

Research shows that, while dogs of any age can be socialized, ideally, socialization should begin between 3 and 14 weeks of age. During that period in a pup’s life, they are deeply impacted by their experiences, according to research.

Having a well-socialized dog means more than just a friendly pup. The Oregon Veterinary Medical Association (OVMA) advises that, if dogs do not become socialized, they may become anxious, fearful, and antisocial with people and other animals.

And that’s a major concern. Behavior problems are a major reason so many pets are brought to shelters.  The frustrated owners just don’t know how to handle a poorly socialized dog.

Signs of a Poorly Socialized Dog

While some excitement is normal, poorly socialized dogs may exhibit over-excitement or hyperactivity in social situations, leading to inappropriate behaviors like jumping or nipping.

Poorly socialized dogs often show distress when faced with new stimuli. Their reactions can vary in intensity, but they usually stem from fear or anxiety.

If not properly socialized, your dog may exhibit behaviors such as aggression toward strangers and other dogs. Signs of a poorly socialized dog include, but are not limited to:

  • Anxiety/fear
  • Cowering
  • Difficulty grooming
  • Excessive barking
  • Fear of noise
  • Growling
  • Reactivity on walks
  • Separation anxiety
  • Snapping

If you suspect your dog may be poorly socialized, it’s crucial to consult with a certified dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist for  guidance.

How and When to Socialize Your Puppy

Focus on socializing your puppy the moment you bring her home. Try to patiently and gradually expose her to a variety of sights, sounds, and experiences. You can go on walks in different places, take a puppy training class, take your puppy with you to stores like Home Depot that generally allow dogs, maybe schedule play dates with a friend who has either a gentle older dog or a puppy close to your dog’s age and size. Throughout all this, always be patient with your puppy.

Never force your puppy to deal with something; if the puppy is fearful, move farther away from the scary thing and distract the puppy with treats. You can also simply leave and try on another day(s), with lots of extra yummy treats.

The Animal Humane Society suggests:

  • Handle your puppy daily, including gentle petting, holding, and examining paws and ears.
  • Gradually introduce your puppy to a variety of everyday sounds (e.g., traffic, appliances, children).
  • Teach your puppy to tolerate people near their food bowl by dropping treats in the puppy’s dish.
  • To prevent social anxiety, short periods of alone time are essential to prevent separation anxiety.
  • Focus on positive reinforcement, rewarding good behavior and preventing unwanted behaviors (e.g., biting) through gentle redirection.
  • Introduce your puppy to a variety of people, including men and children.
  • Redirect biting with appropriate toys and end play sessions if biting becomes too hard.

Always Socializing

Although a dog’s primary sensitive period of socialization is as a puppy, it’s important to continue to socialize your dog throughout their life with activities like:

  • Dog-to-dog interactions: Engage in various social activities like dog parks, playdates, and walks to facilitate appropriate dog-to-dog interactions.
  • Enrich your dog’s environment: Vary your walking routes to provide mental stimulation and exposure to different environments.
  • Prevent separation anxiety: Practice short periods of alone time daily to prevent separation anxiety.
  • Manage fear: Avoid punishing fear and remove your dog from the situation and redirect their attention.
  • Stay hands-on: Continue handling your dog gently to ensure the dog is comfortable being touched and examined. Pay attention to signs of discomfort and stop if needed.

Socializing an Adult Dog

If socialization training starts with an adult dog, especially one with a history of reactivity, you will need more of a patient and gradual approach. Enrolling in a class with an experienced trainer to coach you will be money well spent.

  • Begin with low-stress interactions. Let your dog observe people and other dogs from a distance and gradually decrease the distance as they become more comfortable.
  • Create positive associations with people and other dogs by offering treats and praise.
  • Never force your dog into social situations. Let them approach at their own pace and never punish them for showing fear or anxiety.

Socialize a Reactive Dog

If your dog shows aggressive tendencies, follows these tips on how to socialize a reactive dog:

Play it safe: Focus on keeping your dog safe and comfortable in situations where he might react. This may involve using a leash, muzzle, or barrier to create distance between your dog and potential triggers.

Start slowly: Gradually expose your dog to triggers at a distance that they can tolerate. For example, observe other dogs from a park bench or watch people walk by from inside your house.

Use positive reinforcement: When your dog is calm around their triggers, reward them with treats, praise, or petting.

Turn to the pros: If you’re struggling to socialize your dog, consider consulting with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist. They can help you develop a personalized training plan and provide guidance on how to manage your dog’s reactivity.

Factors Affecting Dog Socialization

In addition to proper early-life experiences, these factors influence a dog’s socialization:

Genetics: Breed temperament and individual personality traits can influence a dog’s response to new situations. Some breeds may be naturally more cautious or fearful, while others may be more social.

Environmental Factors: The environment in which your dog is raised can significantly impact their socialization. A stimulating and enriching environment with opportunities for exploration and positive social interactions is ideal.

Owner Behavior: Your behavior plays a crucial role. If you’re fearful or anxious around strangers or other dogs, your dog may learn to mimic these behaviors.

Socialization and Personalization

It’s crucial to remember that every dog is unique. It’s always best to consult with a certified professional dog trainer or veterinarian for a plan tailored to your dog’s needs, and temperament.

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