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On-Leash Aggression

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Aggressive, disobedient dog problems concept.
Does your dog react aggressively when he’s on leash and sees other dogs? There are several reasons that dogs might do this – and in many cases, the dog might be perfectly fine with other dogs when he’s not on leash! You can definitely improve this behavior, but you have to start by never allowing your dog to greet other dogs on leash and putting more space – perhaps much more space – between your leashed dog and other dogs you see. © Photoboyko | Getty Images

When you adopted your dog, you were probably looking forward to nice, long, stress-relieving walks together. But instead of the peaceful strolls you had imagined, your dog is becoming increasingly aggressive toward other dogs you encounter on your walks. Why is this happening? And what can you do about it?

Dogs are a social species, but that doesn’t mean they all get along with each other. After all, we humans are a social species, and we don’t all get along!

There are several reasons why your dog might be acting aggressive when he’s on leash and sees other dogs:

  • Frustrated on leash. This can happen with even a very confident, friendly, social dog who is accustomed to greeting other canines he meets while on leash but is prevented from doing so. His resulting frustration may cause him to become reactive.

Reactivity is defined as an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. While frustration reactivity looks seriously aggressive, in many cases, the frustrated greeter is socially appropriate if allowed to interact with other dogs off-leash. But be careful! Other dogs may take offense at your dog’s level of arousal and respond with defensive aggression. You’ll do better to manage and/or modify your dog’s arousal so he is reasonably calm before allowing dog-dog interactions.

To avoid leash frustration, prevent the development of frustration-causing expectations by never allowing on-leash greetings. I recommend that you allow your friendly dog to interact with others only when the dogs are off-leash and in appropriate, safely enclosed areas.

  • Defensive on leash. This occurs with a dog who is mildly to significantly fearful of other dogs and feels threatened and trapped when he is on leash and approached by others.

Puppies may shut down at first when approached by other dogs, but as dogs mature and gain confidence, they may start to offer “distance increasing behaviors” including growls, barks, and lunges toward other dogs. When other dogs leave a barking, lunging dog alone in response to his “go away” message, the behavior is reinforced, and he’s convinced this is a successful survival strategy. Behaviors that are reinforced generally increase, so the intensity of his aggressive behavior escalates over time.

As with frustrated greeters, this behavior is less likely to occur when the defensive dog is off leash, especially with a socially appropriate dog who respects his “go slow” signals. Because he knows he can move away and doesn’t feel trapped by the leash, he is less stressed about the encounter, and less likely to feel the need to aggress.

  • Offensively aggressive on leash. Sadly, some dogs truly don’t like other dogs and look for opportunities to attack them. This behavior can appear even in a young puppy and can be the most challenging to manage and modify of the three types of on-leash aggression.

While the other two types of leash-aggressive dogs are often compatible with other dogs when not on their leashes, the offensively aggressive dog is generally just as much of a threat off leash as on leash. Fortunately, it’s also the least common of the three types of leash-aggressive dogs.

How to Modify On-Leash Aggression

All of the following protocols can be utilized with each of the three types of on-leash aggression described above.

  • Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization (CC&D). This is my favorite protocol for all three types of on-leash aggression, as it changes your dog’s association with the stimulus (the other dog) that is creating an undesirable emotional response.

Working at a sub-threshold distance (where your dog is aware of the presence of the other dog but not barking, lunging, or otherwise acting aggressive), each time your dog looks at the other dog, you feed him a very high-value treat to convince him that other dogs make treats happen (see sidebar). Be patient, this modification protocol takes time!

  • Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT). This is a more complicated protocol than CC&D, because you need the help of another person and dog, but it can be very effective. The dog with aggressive behavior is exposed to another dog/handler pair at a sub-threshold distance, and any calm choices he makes (turning away, looking at his handler, looking at the other dog calmly, etc.) are reinforced by having the other dog/handler pair move away.

This shows your dog that a calm, non-aggressive behavior can make the unwanted dog go away. When your dog’s calm behavior is consistently reinforced by moving the other dog away, your dog learns to behave calmly in the presence of other dogs – and eventually no longer feels the need to try to make them go away.

A reverse CAT procedure is used for frustrated greeters: calm behavior makes the other dog come closer.

For more information about CAT, see “Constructional Aggression Treatment Can Improve Behavior,” WDJ December 2009.

  • Simple operant behaviors. Teaching these easy operant behaviors can help you manage his behavior in the presence of other dogs. Because these are fun, they not only help him be attentive to you, but also put his brain in a happy place so he is less stressed about the other dogs. These include:
  • Touch: Your dog cheerfully touches his nose to your hand on cue. (See “On Target Training,” September 2021.)
  • Walk Away: Your dog does a 180-degree spin and romps away from the other dog when you give a “Walk Away” cue. (See “Walk Away,” September 2018.)
  • Find It: Your dog gleefully runs to you and looks on the ground between your feet for treats when you use your “Find it” cue. If you already use “Find it” to look for things a distance away from you, use “Feet” for this one. (See “Understanding Your Dog’s Nose,” September 2019.)

On-Leash Success

Some leash-aggressive dogs may never be candidates for dog park play, but with commitment to management and a good modification program (with the help of a qualified force-free professional if needed), you should be able to enjoy the peaceful walks that you were hoping for when you first adopted him.

Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization (CC&D)

Here’s how you can use CC&D to improve how your dog feels, and eventually behaves, around other dogs on leash:

  1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of another dog and be alert or wary but not aggressive. This is the sub-threshold distance.
  2. Have your dog on leash where other dogs will occasionally pass by at a sub-threshold distance. The instant your dog sees the other dog, start feeding bits of chicken (or another high-value treat). Let him look and then feed him treats. Look again; feed. Over and over.
  3. The moment that the other dog is out of sight, stop feeding treats to your dog. The treats appear again only when your dog notices another dog’s appearance.
  4. Repeat steps 1-3 until seeing a dog at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER); your dog’s association with a dog at threshold distance is now positive instead of negative.
  5. Gradually move your dog closer to where other dogs will appear, achieving the CER at each new distance, until your dog can happily and calmly be near other dogs.
  6. At your original threshold distance, do CC&D where more dogs will be present and more active – perhaps outside a dog park or outdoor training class. Gradually decrease distance, attaining CERs, until your dog is delighted to have more dogs and more activity in close proximity.
  7. When your dog remains calm around other dogs in controlled environments, you’re ready for real-world encounters. Take him for walks in your neighborhood, using generous CC&D treats any time he sees another dog. Continue to manage the situation by moving away as needed, until you are confident he can pass by other dogs without reacting.

Help! My Dog Is Choking

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Help a choking dog with the Heimlich and other maneuvers to clear the throat.
If your choking dog is conscious, it may not be safe to do a finger sweep of his mouth, but it’s the first thing you should do if he loses consciousness. Photo by lawcain, Getty Images

Choking puts otherwise perfectly healthy dogs at an imminent risk of dying – within minutes – if first aid is not successful.

Choking is the inability to breathe due to an obstruction of the upper airway (trachea or windpipe) that blocks air flow. In dogs, choking is usually caused by foreign objects like balls or bones. Note: Trauma and swelling in the throat can also block air flow but require immediate veterinary help. The techniques below are used to remove the object stuck in the dog’s throat.

What to Do When a Dog Is Choking

If you encounter a choking dog, the first thing to do is ascertain if the dog is really choking. “Blocked air flow” is key here. If a dog can cough, there is airflow. So, if your dog is coughing, as harsh, uncomfortable, and scary as that may be, he is not choking. If coughing persists, he needs to see a veterinarian for sure, but you can relax and leave your superhero coat in the closet for now.

Signs of Choking in Dogs

chuck it ball
A ball designed like this one from Chuckit! allows air to flow into the dog’s mouth while he holds it and, if the ball was too small for the dog and gets lodged, it still allows air flow and prohibits actual choking. ©Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

Signs of choking in dogs include:

  • Obvious distress
  • Pawing at the mouth
  • Gagging
  • Trying to cough
  • Producing no sounds, or just faint whistling sounds
  • Salivating
  • Tongue and gums turning blue
  • Collapse

How to Save a Choking Dog

  1. Do a Finger Sweep Inside the Mouth

If you can safely put a finger in the dog’s mouth without being bitten, try a finger sweep first. If you can’t safely do this with a still conscious, panicking dog, it is the FIRST thing you do when they become unconscious. Be careful not to push anything you may feel at the back of the mouth deeper into the throat. If you feel something thin enough to grasp with your fingers, you may be able to retrieve it and clear the dog’s airway.

If you have a hemostat in your first-aid kit, you may be able to grasp the object. (A hemostat is a surgical tool normally used for clamping blood vessels, but its blunt end and grasping characteristics make it perfect for grabbing something heading down your dog’s throat.) If you feel something but can’t grasp it, your next move is to try to dislodge it by compressing the chest.

hemostat
A hemostat is a terrific tool to have in your first-aid kit for many situations, including choking. They usually cost less than $10. ©Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
  1. Chest Compression

With the dog standing, stand over him facing the same way and with both hands simultaneously push on his rib cage. Strong, forceful, repeated thrusts will likely be required. If this is unsuccessful, move on to the Heimlich maneuver.

  1. The Heimlich maneuver

The way to do a Heimlich maneuver depends on the dog. The key is to use repeated, forceful, upward thrusts with a fist underneath the dog behind where the rib cage ends. Place yourself over the dog in whatever position allows you to place your hand/fist right below the rib cage and apply a maximum pressure gradient force from the abdomen/chest up toward the throat.

For small dogs, this position might be holding them with their spine against your body while applying the force.

For larger dogs, the Heimlich can be performed with them standing up on their hind legs, facing away from you (as is done with a human), or lying on their sides or backs if you can’t hold the dog up.

  1. Rescue Breathing

If you successfully dislodge the object, but your dog is not breathing, you must perform rescue breathing – like CPR for humans, as you’re administering artificial respiration – to get the dog breathing. Close the dog’s mouth, extend the neck, place your mouth over both nostrils to create a seal, and breathe hard enough into the dog to see the chest rise and fall. Wait a few seconds for a response and repeat as needed.

Prevent Choking in Dogs

Be careful with what you allow your dog to chew on and always supervise chewing sessions.

Choking occurs most commonly during play, especially with balls. Make sure your dog only plays with a safe type and size ball. A ball that is too small for the dog could easily make its way to the back of the throat and choke the dog. This is especially important in large exuberant dogs.

If the ball is compressible, like a tennis ball, it might be easier to retrieve if it becomes lodged. Balls with holes in them are even easier to grasp.

Warning: NEVER, EVER LET DOGS PLAY WITH LACROSSE BALLS! These balls are hard and dense and the most difficult, if not impossible, to retrieve when stuck in the back of the dog’s mouth.

XXT for Choking Dogs

If your dog is choking on a ball, a special technique called eXternal eXtraction Technique, or XXT, might work. Place the unconscious dog on his back, straddle the dog, and extend the dog’s neck. In this position, you will likely be able to see the bulge of the ball in the dog’s trachea Place your thumbs on either side of the trachea behind the ball, with your fingers grasping the dog’s jaw bones for purchase. Repeatedly push with your thumbs against the ball, in a down and forward (away from your body) direction. Think of it as a ball stuck in a garden hose; you are trying to push it out of the end of the hose with your thumbs.

See the video on this page to see this being done on an anatomical model of a dog.

How to Teach Your Dog to Roll Over

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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It’s hard work to roll over slowly – it’s a workout for his core! Most dogs will roll over more easily if they can build a little momentum, so, as your dog starts to understand how you want his body to move, you can move the lure a little faster (but only as quickly as he can follow it).

There’s an almost endless list of tricks you can teach your dog to keep the two of you entertained, and friends and family members laughing. Roll Over is an all-time favorite, especially beloved because, while some tricks are off-limits to puppies because their bodies are still developing, Roll Over is safe to teach dogs of any age.

    1. Start with your dog lying down. (If you haven’t already taught down, go here.)
      Start with your dog lying down. If he’s lying squarely, use a lure to encourage him to tip over onto one hip or the other.
    2. Notice whether your dog lies down squarely in “sphinx” position or rocks onto one hip. If she’s resting on one hip, encourage her to roll in that direction. If she’s lying down squarely, she can roll either way.
    3. Put a treat in front of her nose and move it toward her rib cage on the side she’s rolled away from (on either side if she’s square), with the treat in your hand on the same side. That is, if she’s rolled onto her right hip, move the treat toward her left-side rib cage with the treat in your right hand.
      Put a treat on your dog’s nose, and slowly move your hand toward his ribs – not too high in the air. Mark and give him a treat each time he follows the lure. The goal is to get him to reach farther each time, but if you move too fast, he might stall out and quit.
    4. As she follows the treat with her nose, mark her effort (with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give her a treat. Don’t try roll over yet! The idea is to reward her successively more accurate efforts, thus “shaping” the behavior you’re after. Put another treat in front of her nose and move it toward her rib cage again, repeating multiple times, and using your marker and giving her a treat each time she follows the treat with her nose.
    5. When she’s eagerly following the treat each time, move it just a little farther toward her spine with each repetition. Go slow! If you go too far too fast she might try to get up, instead, or balk if she feels like she’s stretching as far as she can. Preserve her loose willingness to follow the treat with lots of praise and encouragement.
      If you’ve been keeping the rate of your marks and treats high, offering lots of praise and encouragement, and keeping this fun, your dog is likely to start rolling more quickly. The first few times he rolls all the way over, give him a jackpot! Good dog! Introduce your cue around this time by using the cue first, pausing for a second or two, and then lure as before.
    6. As she continues to follow the treat, she’ll roll farther onto her hip, then onto her side, then feet up in the air, and finally all the way over. Go slow and steady so she doesn’t get scared. Mark and treat all of her progress, with multiple repetitions at each step. When she’ll do it easily, add your verbal cue before you lure, then remember to fade the lure. You did it, yay! Now go show off!

How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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teach your dog to lie down on cue with force free techniques.

Want to teach your dog to lie down on cue? It’s simple – and it doesn’t require any pushing or pulling. While old-fashioned coercive methods forced dogs to the floor, modern trainers invite the dog to perform this important good manners behavior, and reinforce her when she does.

Lure-Shaping the Down

Lure-shaping is our most successful method for teaching “Down” at my dog-training facility, Peaceable Paws. Here’s how:

  1. Have your dog sit.
With your dog sitting, hold a tasty treat at the end of her nose and move it straight toward the ground an inch. If your dog, like Boone, can be grabby with food, use a lower-value treat (such as kibble) so he will follow it, but not dive into your hand for it.

2. While she’s sitting, hold a tasty treat at the end of her nose and move it straight toward the ground an inch. When she lowers her nose to follow the treat, “mark” that desired behavior with a signal, such as the click of a clicker or a verbal marker such as the word “Yes!” and give her the treat.

In successive repetitions, as your dog follows the treat lower and lower, make sure you don’t pull the treat toward you, which can pull him out of the “down” and make him get up and come toward you. Instead, aim for somewhere between his paws.

3. Repeat multiple times, moving the treat lower and lower with each repetition. Each time she follows the treat, lowering her head, mark and give her a treat. (If she gets up as you lower the treat you’ve moved it too far too quickly. Back up and proceed more slowly.)

4. The goal is to lower the treat all the way to the ground, so that she lies down in order to reach the treat at ground level. If she gets stuck partway down, lowering her head but not bending her legs to lie down, move the treat slightly to one side. This shifts her weight onto one paw and encourages her to move the other paw forward. If she’s really stuck, try the Lure Under Method (See Sidebar).

If your dog gets “stuck” or doesn’t seem to understand how to follow the lure all the way into a down, try this. Sit on the floor with a bent knee and see if you can lure your dog to reach for a treat under your leg. (You can also try this with a coffee table or chair.)

5. When she’ll lure all the way down, it’s time to add the cue. You can use any word you like, though most people say “Down!” Start with the verbal cue, pause briefly, and then lure her to the floor as you did previously. Mark and treat!

Once he is starting to lie down as soon as you begin to lower the treat, introduce a cue. Say, “Down,” wait a second or two, and then start to lure him as before. Within a handful of repetitions, he should realize that he can get to his reward faster if he lies down when he hears the cue; he dosn’t have to wait for the lure.

6. Start “fading” the lure by whisking it behind your back when she’s almost down and letting her finish going down on her own. When her elbows reach the floor, mark and treat!

Occasionally pause a bit longer after you use your verbal cue and before luring, to see if he’ll lie down without the lure. Don’t rush! Some dogs are quick, but others have to think about it for a few moments. If he does lie down without any use of the lure, mark and give him a jackpot of treats. Woohoo! He’s well on his way!

7. Occasionally pause a bit longer after you use your verbal cue and before luring, to see if she’ll lie down without the lure. If she does, mark and give her a jackpot of treats. A jackpot is when you give several higher value treats, one after the other after the other.

Just as you would if you were standing, mark and give your dog a treat for each repetition with a successively lower body position; don’t hold out for a full “Down” on the first try! Of course, if he offers a full Down, mark and give him a jackpot!

8. If she’s not offering Down yet, continue luring, gradually whisking the treat away sooner until she lies down on the verbal cue without any luring.

The Lure Under Method For Teaching Down

If you get stuck with the lure-shaping method, here’s another way. Sit on the floor with your knee raised high enough your dog can crawl under (or use a low stool). Lure her under your knee, and when she lies down in order to crawl to reach the treat, mark and treat. When she does this easily, add your “Down” cue, then gradually fade the presence of your knee, until she’ll lie down on just the verbal cue.

How Often Do Dogs Need Rabies Shots

By
John Strassburger
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Dog Running On Field
When your dog comes bounding back to you after a fantastic side run through the woods, you have no idea what fun he got into. A rabies vaccination is your only defense against an accidental exposure. Credit: Skyler Ewing / EyeEm / Getty Images

When your dog needs an annual rabies shot depends on if he previously received a one- or three-year vaccine. However, even if he got a three-year vaccination, your dog’s rabies shot schedule is still dictated by state laws. Both the one- and three-year versions are approved by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Fortunately, most states (Ohio and Hawaii have no rabies vaccine requirements) rely on the “Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control, 2016,” published by the National Association of State Public Health Veterinarians, to make decisions about when dogs needs rabies boosters, and they accept the three-year vaccine.

Extending Rabies Booster Intervals

The 2020 Rabies Challenge Fund Research Study, with esteemed lead researcher W. Jean Dodds, DVM, set out to determine if rabies booster intervals could stretch to five or seven years. The reason for the study was to maximize revaccination periods to reduce vaccine-related adverse events. Reactions to rabies vaccines are rare, but they can occur, especially in ill and senior dogs. The study demonstrates that the duration of immunity to rabies in vaccinated dogs extends beyond three years and that immunologic memory exists even in vaccinated dogs with a low serum antibody titer.

Further research is required, but if you have a dog who severely reacts to vaccinations or cannot have a rabies vaccination due to other health concerns, there is hope. At least 16 states offer waivers. Applying for a waiver requires the help of your veterinarian.

When to Vaccinate Your Dog for Rabies

When a dog can get a rabies shot depends upon his age. A puppy should have his first rabies vaccination at 14 to 16 weeks of age and another vaccine a year later. He then needs a booster shot every one to three years, depending on the vaccine. Only licensed veterinarians can give rabies shots, so discuss the vaccine with your vet.

What To Do When Your Dog Encounters Rabid Animal

Rabies is carried mostly by raccoons, skunks, foxes, and bats, which even city dogs may encounter. A study in the Sept. 15, 2009, Journal of the American Veterinary Association showed that rabies cases in vaccinated animals are rare, but they do occur.

If a dog is exposed to rabies and vaccinated, he will be revaccinated immediately and put under the owner’s control. The dog must be watched for signs of rabies for 45 days, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Signs of rabies include:

If the dog was never vaccinated, the CDC advises euthanasia. If the owner objects, an immediate rabies vaccination may be given, and the dog is required to undergo a four-month strict quarantine.

Georgia has by far the most documented cases of rabies in wild animals, followed by New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Florida, and California. Surviving rabies is rare in both dogs and humans, and the cost of treating a canine rabies case can run to $12,000 or more with no guarantee of survival.

Why Do Dogs Growl?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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adorable lying small pregnant dog protects stomach from young woman hand growling
Dogs who have been punished for growling are often those who bite “without any warning.” Punishment often suppresses any early warning a dog might otherwise give us when she’s scared or threatened and needs more space. Of course, we don’t want to reinforce our dog for growing, any more than we want to train her to bite us! But if we refrain from taking her growl personally, and instead, take it as her way of saying she is afraid and needs more space, she and her handlers will all be safer. Photo by Yaraslau Saulevich, Getty Images

Your dog’s growl scares you a little – but you must never punish her for this. If that seems counterintuitive, it’s because a growl often precedes a bite. Therefore, a growl must be a bad thing, no? But wait. Why do dogs growl? Why does your dog growl at you? When you understand why, you’ll realize that a growl is a good thing, and why you don’t want to punish any dog for doing it.

Growling is Communication

Our dogs communicate with us all the time. Unfortunately, we humans aren’t always great at understanding what they are trying to say. When your dog growls, she’s saying “Something you’re doing is making me uncomfortable and I really don’t want to bite you, so please stop what you’re doing!” A growling dog is stressed but trying very hard not to bite you.

Historically our dog’s growl was viewed as a challenge, and we were told we had to punish him for growling, or he would escalate to biting. In the past couple of decades, as a gentler philosophy has enveloped the dog training profession, we have come to realize that dogs have a continuum of “agonistic” behaviors  – a range of activities associated with aggression in a social species – and that the behaviors on the lower end of the continuum are intended to avert conflict, not cause it. The freeze, the hard stare, the growl – these are all attempts on your dog’s part to avoid having to escalate to serious aggression. If you punish the growl, you risk suppressing that communication – and your dog may learn to bite without giving any warning.

What to Do if Your Dog Growls

If your dog growls, remove whatever is causing her to growl (her trigger). If you are petting or grooming her or trimming her nails (or if someone else is) stop petting, grooming, or nail trimming. If she growls at a dog or another person, move her away from them, or have them move away. If someone is approaching her in her crate, have them move away. You get the idea!

Now you have options. First, consider a veterinary exam to rule out or treat any physical conditions that may be causing your dog to experience pain or discomfort, especially if it’s a new behavior in response to something she was previously okay with. Then:

  • Manage her world so she doesn’t encounter her trigger(s). If she growled at a horse, don’t take her to horse barns.
  • Appreciate and respect her growl by removing whatever is stressing her.
  • Do behavior modification (counter-conditioning and desensitization, CC&D) to help her become comfortable with her trigger(s). Pair the presence of a stranger or nail clippers, or being petted or picked up with very high-value treats. (For step-by-step instruction on how to do this, see “Trimming a Dog’s Toenails” and “Lifting Your Dog,” WDJ June 2015).
  • Teach new behaviors (operant conditioning) such as “Find It” (drop treats at your feet) and “Walk Away” (do a 180-Degree-turn and run the other way!) that can help her cope with the presence of stressors, and that incorporate cooperative care techniques.
  • If you need help with these, seek the assistance of a qualified force-free professional.

Now, with your new-found appreciation for your dog’s growl, take a good look at her world and do what you can to see that she feels less compelled to communicate with you through growling. And treasure her growl when she does.

My Dog Ate Chicken Bones

By
John Strassburger
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dog eating chicken bones
Dogs tend to gorge when an appealing meal presents itself, and chicken bones—like this dog who looks like he found some bones ready to be discarded—are an especially tantalizing food. But chicken bones are dangerous for dogs to eat. Credit: Luis Diaz Devesa/Getty Images

Can dogs eat chicken bones? Well, yes, he can. Should a dog eat chicken bones? If the bones are cooked, the answer is absolutely not! Cooked bones are dangerous.

There are many people who feed raw chicken (including bones) to their dogs as part of a “bones and raw food” (BARF) diet. But there is more involved to feeding raw chicken safely than just handing your dog a raw wing or leg. For guidance on feeding raw bones as part of a BARF diet, see “Feeding Raw Bones.”

Why Chicken Bones Are Bad

Many veterinarians will say the dangers of eating chicken bones are a myth, adding that dogs have eaten them for centuries. But, in the next breath, the same veterinarian will likely tell you about a dog or two who choked or had to have emergency surgery for a perforated intestine, adding, so your dog shouldn’t eat chicken bones.

Once they reach the dog’s stomach, acids and enzymes normally dissolve chicken bones. But there’s always that one dog who chokes (from eating too quickly and not chewing sufficiently) or gets a bone fragment caught or a piece embedded somewhere in his digestive tract . . .

Treatment If Your Dog Ate Bones

What should you do if your dog ate some cooked chicken bones? First, stay calm—it will do neither of you any good to panic! If you catch him in the act, take the bone out of his mouth, if you can. If you have a hemostat in your first-aid kit, use that.

If you’re not quick enough to remove the bone before he swallows it, check for blood in his mouth or in his throat. If you see none—and your dog is acting normally—he’ll probably be OK. Note: Do not induce vomiting. There is more risk from the bone fragments coming back up.

Even so, though, it’s wise to give him soft food, like a little white bread and/or a tablespoon of plain canned pumpkin in his meals for a few days, to help move the bone pieces out. Encourage consumption of water, adding a little broth, if necessary, to keep him well-hydrated. (Always have a second bowl of plain water available, too.)

Check his poop for three days to see if there is any bone or blood and to monitor him for bloating, vomiting, bowel changes, or other discomfort like lethargy, lack of appetite, whining, and so on. Call your veterinarian immediately if you see these things.

To be sure your dog is fine, put chicken bones where he can’t reach them—even though he’s telling you that chicken and turkey taste great!

 

Is Your Dog Afraid of Noises?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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terrier dog hiding under a bed.
Does your dog run to hide in a safe space in your home when she hears certain noises? That’s better than running out your door and down the street! Any work you can put into desensitizing your dog to the noises that frighten her is an investment in her comfort and safety. Photo by Vanessa Van Ryzin, Getty Images.

Certain sounds – the beep of your microwave oven, the clatter of a spoon falling on the floor, the crack of a distant gunshot, even the click of a clicker – and your otherwise-normal, confident dog is trembling in terror at your feet. What makes a dog sound-sensitive? And what can you do to help your dog get over her fear of certain noises?

What is Sound Sensitivity? What Causes It?

Sound sensitivity is a fear response to normal auditory stimuli – sounds that most dogs hear without an obvious negative reaction. The fear response can range from mild stress behaviors such as staying near a trusted human for comfort – to severe anxiety, including panicked running, defecating indoors, and destructive chewing. While each dog may have her own list of fear-causing noises, sudden loud sounds such as gunshots, cars backfiring, fireworks, and thunder are high on many dogs’ lists.

Behavior is always a result of genetics and environment. The herding breeds, for example, are particularly prone to sound sensitivities, although any dog can potentially become fearful of sounds. However, a behavior doesn’t necessarily manifest just because a dog has a genetic propensity; it requires the right (or wrong!) combination of events to trigger the fear.

Puppies experience a significant fear period around the age of 8 weeks. Random fear periods can also occur throughout a dog’s adolescence, until the age of 18 to 24 months. Aversive noise-related experiences that occur during fear periods are likely to have a strong, long-lasting effect on a dog. However, aversive experiences that occur during non-fear periods can also create sound sensitivities. For example, many dogs who learn to associate a beep from their collar with the delivery of a shock can become quite fearful of similar beeps from household appliances such as microwave ovens, cell phones, smoke detectors, and electronic watches. While it’s especially important to be aware of potentially scary or painful sounds during fear periods, your dog can develop a fear of sounds at any time in her life.

How to Help Your Sound Sensitive Dog

  1. Management is a vital first line of defense in any behavior modification program. Identify sounds that your dog finds upsetting and try to avoid exposing her to those sounds and similar sounds. Use a verbal marker instead of a clicker. Create a safe space where she can go when she’s frightened by fireworks or thunder – preferably a place that blocks or muffles the sound, such as a basement or a well-insulated room without windows.

If she finds her crate comforting, you can also utilize “sound-proof crate covers” (covers made of heavy fabric; moving blankets work well for this), and help dampen the sound in that room with noise-blocking curtains, and/or sheets of sound-absorbing material (sold in home-improvement stores). A white-noise machine or calming music may also help muffle disturbing sounds.

  1. Medication can be an appropriate management tool. Consult with a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about behavior or a veterinary behaviorist to help you with this decision. There are over-the-counter options as well as prescription medications that can help your dog cope with scary noises.
  2. Comfort your dog. Despite what you may have heard, it’s perfectly appropriate to comfort your dog when she’s frightened. Your calm voice and gentle touch can help her through hard times.
  3. Modify her fear behavior. Identify the sounds that trigger her fearful responses and use counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) to change her association with them from negative to positive. This is especially useful for changing your dog’s response to small, predictable noises that occur regularly in your home, such as the doorbell or intercom, digital assistant devices, beeping appliances and watches, and so on. See this article for in-depth information about how to use CC&D to help a dog with sound sensitivities.
  4. Seek the assistance of a qualified force-free professional if you need help to implement your modification program.

Sound-sensitive behaviors can be challenging to live with – and to modify. With your commitment and compassion, you can help your dog overcome her fears and give her a better quality of life.

When a Dog is Scared of Thunder

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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A dog scared of thunder is an unhappy dog.
Establish a spot in your house to serve as your dog’s “safe space” when storms strike. A well-insulated basement is a good candidate – but the white noise provided by laundry machines in your laundry room might make that room another spot to consider. Photo by Sonja Rachbauer, Getty Images

Of all the various sound sensitivities we encounter with our dogs, thunder phobias might be the worst – hardest to predict and manage, and most challenging to modify. Having had several storm-sensitive dogs over the years myself, I can commiserate with anyone living with a dog that’s scared of thunder and who freaks out at storms.

What Does Storm Sensitivity Look Like?

Dogs who are fearful of storms may display one or more of a long list of anxiety behaviors, including:

  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Trembling
  • Hiding
  • Clinging to owner
  • Drooling
  • Destructiveness
  • Excessive vocalization
  • Self-inflicted injury
  • Incontinence

The sooner you recognize these behaviors and take steps to manage your dog’s storm stress, the better. Storm phobias tend to get significantly worse if not addressed quickly.

Managing a Dog Scared of Thunder

If you can, create a safe place in your home where it’s possible to muffle or mute storm sounds, such as a well-insulated basement. You can also utilize so-called “sound-proof crate covers” (a heavy moving blanket will work), noise-blocking curtains, and/or sheets of sound-absorbing material, and use a white noise machine or calming music to muffle storm sounds.

There are also a number of over-the-counter products that can help reduce storm stress, such as the Thunder Shirt; calming pheromones like Adaptil diffusers, collars, and sprays; and anxiety-relieving nutritional supplements. Ask your veterinarian which of these they would recommend.

Additionally, this is one of the few behaviors for which I urge clients to discuss prescription anti-anxiety medications with a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about behavior or a veterinary behaviorist, sooner rather than later. Be sure to ask about Sileo – the first and only FDA-approved noise-aversion medication for dogs.

Modifying Storm Sensitivity

Because thunder-phobic dogs come to associate the approach of a storm with the inevitable arrival of thunder and lightning, they tend to become more and more sensitized to the mere hint of a potential storm – dark clouds, increasing wind and, some suggest, change in barometric pressure. Counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) is one of our most useful tools for changing a dog’s association with a fear-causing stimulus.

One of the key elements of a successful CC&D program is the ability to control the intensity of the aversive stimulus – distance, volume, amount of movement – hence the challenge with storms. We cannot control how loud, intense, windy, or close a storm will be, and we can’t control when or where lightning will strike. Recordings of storms may be helpful for CC&D, but many dogs can easily tell the difference between a recording and a real storm. For help choosing an effective recording of a storm to use for CC&D, see “Sound Effects,” WDJ March 2020.

You can do CC&D with treats, and will need to stop treating when your dog becomes too stressed to eat. Some owners successfully use play for CC&D – engaging the dog enthusiastically in a favorite game at the first sign of pending storm activity. This can help – but it risks giving the dog a negative association with her favorite games. Use play carefully, and end the game before your dog is so stressed she shuts down and stops playing. See this article for in-depth information about how to use CC&D to help a storm-phobic dog.

Finally, it is perfectly appropriate to comfort your storm phobic dog. Despite warnings you may have heard, you cannot reinforce fear, and your calm reassurances can help your dog through these hard times.

It’s not easy living with a storm-phobic dog, and the road will be long. Speaking from experience, I can tell you that it’s well worth it when you can finally see your dog resting peacefully at your feet while that storm rages overhead.

Why Does My Dog Follow Me Everywhere?

By
Stephanie Colman
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Woman and dogs walking in hallway at home
Your dogs might drive you crazy by following you around your house, but it’s a very normal dog behavior. Photo by The Good Brigade, Getty Images

Does your dog suffer from FOMO? Is he your four-legged shadow around the house? Whether you find his constant following you and staring at you endearing or potentially annoying, we’re here to assure you that it’s normal and, in most cases, nothing to worry about.

Dogs are highly social creatures. Research shows dogs bond with humans in ways other canines do not. Plus, they’re masters at learning what works to help them get what they want, and they can be quick to figure out our daily patterns. All this, plus some natural breed tendencies, help explain why some dogs tend to follow their owners around the house. The most common reasons include:

  • Dogs enjoy companionship. That dogs are such social animals is what makes them such wonderful companions. Research reveals dogs possess a genetic mutation that makes them predisposed to being friendly with humans in ways other canines are not. This makes it easy to develop mutually rewarding relationships with the dogs in our lives.
  • Breed traits. In developing breeds of dogs, different traits are selected based on their perceived usefulness and desirability. Breed descriptions – especially among breeds developed to work in partnership with man – are full of words like “loyal,” “active,” “curious,” “intelligent,” etc. These are all traits that make it more likely dogs will carefully observe our behavior and want to be part of the action.

Often, dogs follow us because they’ve learned our patterns and know something fun is imminent. If your morning routine consists of getting out of bed, going downstairs, making coffee, going back upstairs to change clothes, and then going for a walk, there’s a good chance your dog has learned your pattern of behavior and follows you in eager anticipation of the morning walk.

  • We reward the behavior. On top of a dog’s natural tendency to enjoy being with us, we often reinforce their affiliative behavior, often without knowing we’re doing it! Dogs, as social companion animals, love attention. The simple act of speaking to your dog or reciprocating his stare – making eye contact and giving him your attention – is rewarding for most dogs. And of course, when they follow us into the kitchen, the odds of receiving a tasty morsel are high!
  • Inability to settle. Some dogs have a harder time developing an “off-switch” and shadow our every move at home because they don’t know how to relax and self-entertain. This can be common in curious puppies and adolescent dogs of more active breed types. Teaching a dog to settle – the fine art of relaxing – is an important lesson. It’s also a lesson that, in many dogs, can help prevent separation distress issues by teaching that it’s OK to be away from their primary attachment figure. When I get a new puppy or adult dog, one of the first skills I work on is how to be calmly confined (with the help of a crate, exercise pen, or baby gate) in another room while we’re all home.
  • In some cases, your dog may be closely shadowing your every move due to anxiety. This can include situational anxiety (such as during thunderstorms or fireworks, when your dog is seeking comfort), or in more generalized cases of separation anxiety, when your dog recognizes your departure pattern and begins to get anxious in advance of you leaving the house. Prolonged anxiety is unhealthy for both pets and people, so if you believe your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, it’s a good idea to consult a positive-reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for help.

Don’t Bring Your Dog To Every Gathering!

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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5
Most dogs would hate this! The instinct to include your dog in everything is coming from a good place, but unfortunately it can often result in their discomfort – or worse! Photo by Aleksandar Nakic, Getty Images

Every now and then there’s an incredible dog with an experienced owner who can go everywhere together: the holiday party at the in-laws, the kids’ out-of-town soccer tournament, the weeklong group vacation house with two other unknown dogs. This dog can also be left unsupervised around the remodeling crew or the fancy cheese plate on the low table, and it’s a piece of cake for him to hang out calmly when the doorbell rings and strangers enter the house.

That dog drives me crazy.

Why? Because that dog makes everybody else think their dog should be able to do those things. Then they try it, and a Bad Thing happens. The owners now think their dog is problematic.

You know who’s problematic? We humans, when we don’t anticipate that some parts of our lives are not suitable for sharing with our dogs. Rather than thinking, “Wow, it’s amazing that my dog can navigate most of human life really well,” we think, “Dang it, what’s wrong with my dog that he can’t handle the annual holiday party without causing a disaster?”

I’d bet good money that the majority of emergency-room visits for dog bites at this time of year are a result of what we dog trainers call “trigger-stacking.” This is when a long car ride + sister-in-law’s unfamiliar house + crowded spaces + unknown people + humans weirdly stressed + no exercise + oops, kitty cat! + young people squealing = bite!

Please do your dog a favor: Stop thinking you need to (or even can!) train any and every dog to handle anything and everything. It’s not fair to impose the same set of behavioral expectations on all dogs. We don’t expect all humans to handle every social situation with equal aplomb!

Instead, with your dog’s specific skills and limitations in mind, think through situations ahead of time, and make adult decisions about whether and how to safely include the dog.

Management Keeps Everyone Safe

In some cases, leaving your dog home for a few hours, or using a trusted pet-sitter to care for her for a few days, is the best solution. In other cases, bringing her along, but using a management tool (or combination of tools), such as a crate, exercise pen, baby gate, or closed door to prevent unsupervised socializing, will be sufficient to prevent her from getting overwhelmed, overstimulated, and/or scared, and snapping at someone in order to get the space she needed.

I’m not advocating a life of separation for your dog; I’m talking about a few critical moments here and there, and sometimes just an hour or two. I love helping folks weave their dogs into as many hours of their lives that they can – as long as it’s safe and happy for humans and canines alike. However, I can’t begin to tell you how many tragic situations could be averted if owners would accept the idea that their dog isn’t currently a good fit for every single scene, and that management is the perfect way to help her through life in a human household.

For example:

  • Crate her or put her behind a baby gate with a nice marrow bone when the doorbell rings. Then you’re free to greet the guest, and your dog can get a sense of things as she sniffs and listens from a nice little distance. Most dogs can be released for a calm greeting eventually – whether that’s one minute later, or 20.
  • Choose a trusted pet-sitter for the holidays rather than forcing her into a situation that brings out the worst in her. It can be hard to find the right pet-sitter, but it’s sure a lot easier when you give it the priority it deserves. Start early! And when you find a good one, treat them so very well that they’ll drop anything to come back next time!

I think everyone can accept that it just makes sense to put up a temporary pen to keep the dog and the plumber from being in each other’s business all day – but I also understand that there’s more of an emotional component to leaving your dog out of the family Christmas or Hanukkah celebration. But it sure stinks when trying to make sure Fido “gets to enjoy the holiday” ends up with everyone thinking he’s a dangerous dog. Instead, do what all the best trainers do: Either leave your dog home, or employ a simple management strategy that will preserve the holiday peace.

My Dog Doesn’t Want to Walk

By
John Strassburger
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How to Walk Your Dog eBook from Whole Dog Journal
Eventually, your dog will walk on a loose leash, with his attention mainly focused on you. Credit: fotografixx / Getty Images

If your dog won’t walk on a leash, look at the situation from the dog’s view. Why aren’t walks fun for him?

Start by ruling out physical problems. Are his nails too long? He could have irritated skin between his toes, sore muscles, or arthritis pain that makes walking uncomfortable. If you’re not sure, get a veterinary checkup. If your dog is a senior with arthritis, pain medication might be in order; ask your vet about this.

Check the fit of his harness – or, better yet, try a different one, or use only his flat collar.

When choosing a harness, consult our Best Front Clip Harnesses review.

Be sure where you’re walking is comfortable for him – no hot pavement, prickly grass, difficult hills. If it’s cold out, are his paws too cold? Some dogs literally sit on their hindquarters in an attempt to get all four feet off of the ground. Others limp.

Make Walking Fun

To increase your dog’s enthusiasm for walking, remember that:

  • A walk must include time for sniffing. The term “sniffari” is often used to describe a dog checking out scents. Some experts say sniffing is like reading the newspaper, so let your dog get the news! Remember, this is his walk!
  • If you walk with a friend, don’t neglect your dog. Give your dog attention. Avoid talking on your phone or being otherwise distracted.
  • Don’t pressure your dog to walk faster than he can. Older dogs, little dogs, and dogs with physical problems will walk slower than you do. The leash should always be loose on your walks.
  • Don’t force him to walk in areas that make him nervous. If smells and sounds from the zoo make him nervous, stay away from the zoo. Walk where he’s comfortable; go in a new direction or drive to a new area a mile or two away. Use treats and praise to encourage him, and never use force or drag your dog along.
  • If your dog won’t take even very high-value treats on your walks, it’s a sign that he is highly stressed.

Treats for Walking

Now, let’s rev up his enthusiasm for the leash and for walks.

Pick up the leash, say “Leash!” and put it on him. Immediately give him a treat. Then, ask him to walk with you around your house or yard, using a new cue (one that hasn’t been used before). You can say, “Walk” or “OK” or “Let’s go!” It doesn’t matter. What does matter is that you say it in a fun, upbeat, happy tone and, as soon as he takes one step with you, reward him. Reward him frequently. Keep sessions no more than three to five minutes long. At this point, you may notice he walks along frequently looking up at you.

When you think he’s ready, go somewhere new for a very short walk. Give him lots of treats along the way. If you think something ahead might bother him, use a very high rate of reinforcement (treats and praise) as you approach and move past the obstacle. Eventually, he’ll look at you for a treat when approaching something he’s concerned about.

Gradually lengthen the walks, but if your dog becomes reluctant again, and his health and equipment issues have already been addressed, reduce the length of your treks and respect his limits! Not all dogs need to walk far for their health or happiness.

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