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Best Winter Boots for Dogs

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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The best winter dog boots protect your dog's delicate paws during cold winters.
When picking the right winter boots for your dog, look for options that fit well and offer the right amount of grip and insulation for their intended use. Credit: Jae Thomas

Whether you live in a city that uses a lot of salt on its sidewalks in the winter or you just have a dog who gets cold feet in the snow, the best dog winter boots can help protect your pup’s paws.

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Does My Dog Actually Need Winter Boots?

Not all dogs need winter boots, but they are helpful in a variety of situations:

  • Ice and salt: Dog boots with thick soles can help prevent chemical burns caused by walking on ice treated with salt or ice melt.
  • Freezing temperatures: Dog boots can help dogs who have little or no hair on their feet stay warm and extend the amount of time you can walk or exercise them in the winter.
  • Snow: For dogs with long coats, boots can help prevent snowballs from gathering in their hair.

Traits We Want in Dog Winter Boots

Fit and comfort: The best winter boots for your dog are ones that fit well, stay on, and are comfortable to wear while your dog is walking or running. Highly active dogs who need boots that move with them and stay on will likely do better with a sock-style bootie. Dogs who need additional traction and move at a slower pace will do well with a shoe style with a rubber sole.

Regardless of the style of boot, make sure you measure your dog’s paws before purchasing. Front paws are often larger than back paws so the best size for your dog’s front paws might be different than the best size for their back paws. If that is the case with your dog, you might want to choose a dog boot option that comes in sets of two rather than sets of four.

Also, if the brand you’re looking at doesn’t have a size that’s almost exactly your dog’s paw measurement, you might want to choose a different brand, as some have more variety in their sizing.

Insulation: For dogs who get cold feet in the snow or freezing temperatures, choose a boot option that has insulation in them to keep your dog’s paws warm.

Waterproofing: If you live in an area that gets a lot of rain or heavy, wet snow in the winter, opt for boots that are completely waterproof rather than water resistant. If the snow in your area is dry rather than wet, water-resistant boots will usually be fine, especially for short outings.

Traction: For older pups or dogs with injuries or disabilities who need help with traction in the snow and ice, choose an option that has a thick rubber sole, rather than a sock-style choice without a separate sole.

Read on for the best dog winter boots tested for Whole Dog Journal.

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceNotes
Canada Pooch Soft Shield Dog Boots$60-70 for four based on sizeSoft, flexible, insulated boots that will keep your dog’s feet warm in extreme temperatures and on snow and ice.
Wilderdog Dog Booties$36 for fourA sock-style bootie with a rubber bottom for extra grip and traction.
Non-stop Dogwear Contact Bootie High Dog Boots$25 for fourA thin, sock-style dog boot that stays on incredibly well, even if your dog is running and playing at high speeds.
Ruffwear Polar Trex Dog Boots$47 per pairAn insulated dog boot with grippy rubber soles that will protect your dog’s feet from sharp ice, cold pavement, and salt or de-icer.

Best Dog Winter Boots: Canada Pooch Soft Shield Dog Boots

The canada pooch soft shield boots are our picks for the best dog boots overall.
The Canada Pooch Soft Shield Boots offer a great balance between flexibility and protection. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Canada Pooch Soft Shield Dog Boots check all the boxes for a dog winter boot: they’re insulated with a fleece lining, flexible, easy to put on and take off, and stay on decently well if sized properly. They’re also water resistant and have rubber grips on the bottoms for extra traction.

These soft boots are heftier than some of the other sock-style dog booties on this list and will keep your dog’s feet warmer in freezing temperatures. These are an especially good choice for small breeds and breeds with short, single coats or low body fat who may get uncomfortably cold in extreme temperatures.

Though they come in a variety of sizes, multiple sizes are often out of stock on Amazon, so you may need to purchase them directly from Canada Pooch, which means paying for shipping that would take longer to arrive than an Amazon order.

Runner-up for Best Dog Winter Boots: Wilderdog Dog Booties

Wilder dog provides an excellent pair of winter dog booties.
The Wilderdog Booties are a bit boxy but are easy to use and provide good grip. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Wilderdog Dog Booties feature all the pros of a sock-style dog boot—easy to get on and off, comfortable, and they stay on well—with a grippy rubber bottom that adds extra protection and traction. Though they don’t have insulation (extremely sensitive paws may do better with the Canada Pooch Soft Shield Boots or the Ruffwear Polar Trex), they offer a physical barrier between your dog’s paw pads and the ground and are grippy enough for mildly icy conditions.

I wish that the shape of these boots was more contoured to dogs’ paws as they are a bit boxy with extra fabric at the corners. However, it didn’t seem to bother our tester dogs. These boots only come in 3 sizes, so dogs that are between sizes may want to size down or opt for the Non-stop Dogwear Contact High boots as they come in more sizes.

Best Winter Dog Boots That Actually Stay On: Non-stop Dogwear Contact Bootie High Dog Boots

Nonstop Dogwear provides a fitted pair of winter dog boots.
When it comes to dog boots that won’t go flying at the first sign of the zoomies, the Non-stop Dogwear Contact Bootie are our top choice. High Dog Boots Credit: Jae Thomas

These sock-style booties are some of the few that I’ve found that actually stay on my dogs when they’re running at full speed, hiking, and rolling in the snow in the winter. The Non-stop Dogwear Contact Bootie High Dog Boots are soft and flexible with elastic and Velcro-like closures that cinch the boot to your dog’s foot but are more flexible than traditional Velcro closures. The higher-profile design definitely helps keep them on, too.

These dog boots are best suited for quick walks in cold weather, hikes, runs, or as dog snow boots for skijoring in dry, powdery snow. They’re also great at keeping the feathers on long-haired breeds clean in wet grass or light rain. However, they’re not completely waterproof and your dog’s feet will get wet if they’re splashing through puddles, or trekking through soggy, wet snow. They also don’t have any grip, so they don’t add any additional traction on slippery surfaces. It’s also worth noting that since they’re fabric with no sole, they’ll see more wear faster than other options.

Despite some of the minor drawbacks, these boots are my go-to option for preventing snowballs on my Rough Collie’s feet and legs and she seems most comfortable running and hiking in them compared to other options. They also stay on the best for highly active dogs of the dog boots I’ve tested.

Best Winter Dog Boots for Salt and Ice: Ruffwear Polar Trex Dog Boots

Ruffwear provides a comfortable pair of waterproof dog boots.
The waterproof Ruffwear Polar Trex Dog Boots offer good paw protection and traction on icy surfaces. Credit: Jae Thomas

If your main concern in the winter is protecting your dog’s paws from de-icer and adding additional traction on ice and slippery, wet surfaces, the Ruffwear Polar Trex Dog Boots

are a good option. These anti-slip dog boots have a structured Vibram rubber sole to protect your pup’s paws. They’re waterproof, feature a small amount of insulation, and have a zip-up gaiter upper that’s meant to keep snow out—though during testing, the gaiter was too loose on my dogs to adequately keep snow out.

These boots need to be sized correctly if you want them to stay on properly. Luckily, they come in sets of two, so you can buy a larger size for your dog’s front paws and a smaller one for their back paws, since most dogs have larger front paws.

Ruffwear has also recently introduced a new version of these boots with improved traction, fit, and an updated gaiter closure.

Winter Dog Boot FAQ
  • How do I measure my dog for winter boots? To measure your dog for winter boots, you’ll need to measure the widest part of your dog’s paw while they’re standing and putting weight on it. Front paws are often slightly bigger than rear paws, so measure both to ensure a proper fit. Place your dog’s paw on a sheet of paper and use a pencil to mark each side. Then, use a tape measurer or ruler to check the exact measurement.
  • Why do dogs need winter boots? Dogs need winter boots if they’re prone to cold feet in freezing temperatures, to help reduce snowballs, and to protect their paw pads from ice and salt.
  • How do I train my dog to wear boots? When it comes to teaching your dog to wear boots, start slow with just one boot at a time. Reward your dog with a tasty treat as you put their boot on. Take them to play in the yard or for a quick leashed walk with the boot on. As they get comfortable, you can increase the length of time they wear the boot and add on additional boots.
  • How do I stop my dog from losing their boots?To stop your dog from losing their boots, ensure you purchase the correct size. A boot that is too big will often slide off while your dog walks or runs. Ensure the boot is tightened properly before heading out on a walk. Sock-style boots typically stay on better than options with grippy soles.

How to Calm a Dog for Grooming: Simple Tips for Nervous Dogs

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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Dogs need to be groomed. A lot of dogs hate grooming, and how to calm a dog for grrooming is an important life skill.
Many dogs become nervous at the idea of being groomed, so start by getting him used to having different parts of his body touched, like his paws, and rewarding him. Credit: MilkyWay | Getty Images

Grooming an anxious dog is challenging. You know the dog must be groomed, but if grooming is stressful for the dog, it’s going to be even worse for you. You don’t want to damage the relationship you have with your dog by forcing him to be groomed. I get it. I have been there. It’s hard for dog parents to see their dogs feeling anxious about something that can help them feel better overall.

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Shipping Your Dog by Air

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Shipping a dog by air is no one's favorite way for their dog to travel. However, sometimes there's no getting around it.
Shipping a dog by air requires careful consideration and planning. Credit: Chalabala | Getty Images

Let’s say you’re winging off to London or Paris or Singapore for several months and want to take your dog along. That’s not a concern if your pup is a legal service dog trained to assist you for a physical, sensory, psychiatric, or intellectual disability: these dogs are allowed by law to ride in the plane’s cabin with their human caretaker, at no extra charge.

That’s not the case, however, for your family pet.

Understanding Dog Shipping

When it comes to shipping a dog by air, one of the most important steps in making arrangements is checking directly with the specific airline you plan to fly with about their requirements. Don’t rely on what you read on the internet: even reliable sources like the Department of Transportation may not have the most current information. Also, these requirements can change quickly and may be very different from airline to airline.

Generally, if you’re flying internationally on a commercial airline, your dog must be small enough to fit in a carrier that can slip under your seat. Some countries—such as South Africa, the UK, and Australia—forbid pets from arriving inside the passenger cabin; if you’re flying to one of these countries, your dog may need to be shipped with a pet transport company.

In fact, it was only recently that most U.S. carriers prohibited dogs from flying in their cargo holds on international flights, although many permit this on domestic flights. A number of non-domestic airlines such as Lufthansa, however, continue to allow dogs in the animal hold on international flights—so again, reach out to your carrier.

How Your Dog Can Fly

There are three ways you can ship your dog by air: they can travel with you in the cabin or as cargo if permitted; you can have your dog shipped through a licensed commercial pet shipper; or you can book your dog as manifest cargo with the same airline but on a separate flight.

So, what about the animal cargo hold? Back when these holds were dank, dark, unpressurized places with no ventilation, heating, or air conditioning, the idea of shipping your dog by air was enough to give any caretaker nightmares. Despite what some people think, however, that scenario is simply not true today.

The animal cargo hold is fully pressurized and climate-controlled, with the same heating and cooling as the cabin; further, pilots can monitor and adjust those systems anytime during the flight. Carriers can, however, apply “seasonal embargoes” that prohibit your dog being shipped as cargo if there’s a chance they will experience temperatures above 85 °F or below 45 °F for more than four hours, or more than 45 minutes during boarding and deplaning.

Risks in the Cargo Hold

While there are always risks in flying your dog—as is true for any of us, human or animal—data reveals that the risk is infinitesimally small. That’s not to say that there’s no risk whatsoever to dogs flying as cargo.

One is related to flat-nosed (brachycephalic) breeds such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Pekinese, and Boxers. In fact, many carriers will not allow them to fly in the animal hold at all. Even under everyday circumstances, these breeds are physiologically more prone to respiratory problems due to their anatomy and can also be more vulnerable to changes in air quality and temperature in a plane’s animal hold.

Perhaps the greatest danger comes from pet caretakers trying to do the right thing by sedating their dog before a flight. The American Veterinary Medical Association, the International Animal Transportation Association, and the US Department of Transportation all strongly advise against giving your dog any sedation before a flight. Not only do tranquilizers lower blood pressure, they also suppress the central nervous system and can increase the possibility of heart or respiratory problems. A study from 1995 (Tennyson, A.V. Air transport of sedated pets may be fatal. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 1995) which is still widely referenced by veterinary experts found that oversedation is the most frequent cause of animal deaths during air transport: from 1990 to 1995, almost half the animal deaths on airlines resulted from sedation.

Age, Weight, and Crate Size Limits

To fly in most passenger cabins, dogs must be at least eight weeks old. Size restrictions vary, but most major airlines limit the combined weight of the dog and carrier to not over 20 pounds. To fit under the seat, carriers should be no more than 19 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 9 inches high; your dog must be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down inside the zipped carrier.

If your dog is flying in a plane’s cargo/live animal hold, crates must meet International Air Transport Association (IATA) guidelines and airline-specific standards. Again, contact the particular carrier for their requirements, but as a rule they will follow IATA standards.

Import and Veterinary Requirements for Shipping a Dog Internationally

International pet travel arrangements can often take up to six months, so communicate with your destination country’s embassy to determine their entry constraints. If your endpoint is at high risk for rabies, there likely will be additional restrictions; also, certain EU countries may require a rabies titer test. For entry into the UK and EU, your dog must also carry an ISO-compliant microchip.

The USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) Form 7001 is one of the most common forms linked to pet travel. This form must be completed by your veterinarian and certifies that your dog is healthy and fit enough for travel. However, each air carrier sets independent transport rules . . . one more reason to talk directly to the airline.

Preparing Your Dog for Travel

Before your trip, do everything you can to minimize your dog’s stress, starting with allowing at least a month for them to become familiar with the carrier or crate. Leave the door open, with a comfortable blanket or crate pad inside. Try feeding your dog inside the carrier to help create a positive association.

Talk with your veterinarian about how long before the flight you can feed your dog, and how much. Make sure the crate or carrier has room for a water bowl, and that your dog has access to water during the flight.

Ensure your pup has a collar with ID tags, as well as an internationally-compliant microchip. Carry a current photograph of your dog. Put your name and phone number inside the carrier and attach a tag showing your destination address. Pack a leash, medications, and emergency information such as contact information for your vet and an emergency veterinary hospital at your destination.

Very few studies have been done on the effects of air travel on the welfare of dogs; much of the available information is based anecdotes and practical experience, rather than research. However, we do know that a dog’s stress level during travel is directly related to the caretaker’s anxiety. After thousands of years of domestication, dogs have become exceptionally attuned to human emotional states, to the point that they often mirror those conditions. Experts also know that about ten percent of dogs experience significant distress during air travel, evidenced by panting, trembling, and whining. Some of this, of course, is caused by unfamiliar sounds, vibrations and airplane movement, and unaccustomed confinement, all of which trigger the release of stress hormones like cortisol and adrenaline. One way to reduce that anxiety is to book a nonstop flight and avoid layovers and busy holidays.

Clearly, more research is badly needed, especially considering the extensive availability of air travel today, and the increasing number of caretakers who travel—whether by air or land—with their dogs by their sides.

If you are considering shipping your dog via a ground transport service, see “Hitting the Road: How to Choose a Dog Ground Transport Service.”

Dog Treats: How Many Are Too Many, What to Pick, and What to Avoid

By
Editorial Staff
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Treats are one of the great joys of having a dog, and one of the easiest ways to throw off a dog’s diet without meaning to. Companion animal nutritionist Dr. Mary Cope, PhD, lays out how to treat well without overdoing it.

Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor talked it through with Dr. Cope, from portions to picks to the foods worth avoiding.

How many treats is too many?

Dr. Cope starts with the rule nutritionists and vets lean on: treats should make up no more than 10% of a dog’s daily calories, with the other 90% coming from a complete and balanced diet. Go past that and you risk unbalancing the diet, diluting important nutrients, and contributing to weight gain.

What to look for in a treat

Match the treat to your dog’s size (a small dog needs genuinely tiny treats), and look for whole or high-quality ingredients, moderate-to-low calories so you can give more, and something easy to digest. If you’re buying rather than making them, choose a reputable manufacturer.

When a treat should be complete and balanced

It depends on how many you give. Dr. Cope trains her dogs heavily, so she reaches for a nutritionally complete and balanced freeze-dried treat that won’t throw off their day (and doesn’t leave greasy pockets). For the occasional reward on a walk, she’s less concerned about complete and balanced, and she’s a fan of using plain kibble as treats, especially for puppies, as a bonding tool.

Human foods that make good treats

Plenty of whole foods work for both dogs and people: carrots, green beans, peas, blueberries, apple slices, and plain boiled, unseasoned chicken, which she likes for being low in fat. For an easy, low-calorie pocket treat, she points to plain Cheerios.

What to avoid

Dr. Cope’s keep-away list includes chocolate and cocoa, xylitol (also labeled birch sugar, and found in some sugar-free products, gum, and toothpaste), grapes and raisins, onions and garlic in real amounts, macadamia nuts, and alcohol. She also steers owners away from very high-fat foods like bacon, which can trigger pancreatitis, and from high-sugar treats as a regular thing.

A smarter way to spoil your dog

Her biggest point: owners overestimate how big a treat needs to be and underestimate the calories. A small dog’s whole treat allowance might be 20 calories, and one bakery-style cookie can blow past it. Most dogs would rather get five tiny treats than one big one, so break treats small and keep low-calorie options on hand.

The takeaway

Treats are part of the fun, but the best gift you can give a dog is a long, healthy life. Watch the full interview above, and tailor the specifics to your own dog with your veterinarian.

Dog Dermatitis at Home: What You Can Do Before the Vet Visit

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog dermatitis causes excessive itching. You can treat dog dermatitis at home to help relieve the condition.
Depending on the cause, a persistently itchy dog can be helped by something as a soothing bath with the right ingredients.

If your dog is repeatedly scratching himself, things are only going to worsen without help. You need to start by figuring out why your dog is itching and chewing on his skin. You’re probably seeing red and inflamed skin—a condition known as dermatitis—on your dog. You need to start by ruling out fleas, the most common cause of scratching and itching, and then offer soothing, healing topical care, which we will discuss here.

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What Does It Mean When My Dog Smacks His Lips? Common Causes and What to Do

By
Mary Schwager
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0
Why do dogs smack their lips? It can be due to one of a number of reasons.
Dogs often smack their lips when anticipating a tasty treat, but the behavior can also come from things like anxiety, nausea, and mouth pain. Credit: knape | Getty Images

When my dogs smack and lick their lips, it’s often the warm-up act before gooey saliva leaks from their mouths and pools on the floor. As a dog mom to two food-motivated Labradors, I watch for slippery spots in the kitchen.

That familiar rhythmic dog lip-smacking echoed in my car just the other night as I pulled away from a drive-thru with delicious-smelling French fries. One of my Labs put his head right next to mine, and the dog was licking his lips and drooling down my arm as though he was practicing how he’d eat them.

Social media is filled with dog lovers equally entertained by this pooch phenomenon.

The lip-smacking noise has become so popular that it even has an internet slang name: “mlem,” which refers to the sounds of dogs licking their lips, which some say makes fabulous ASMR relaxation videos.

But dog lip smacking isn’t always adorable, relaxing, or about food for your pooch. Twice, my (never a dull moment) Labs have started smacking their lips nonstop for reasons that sent us to the emergency animal hospital.

​Sometimes lip smacking signals a problem—and food, the smell of food, or the hope of food wasn’t the cause. That’s why it’s important to figure out your dog’s lip licking meaning, which depends on the context and frequency of their lip smacking.

What Does It Mean When My Dog Smacks His Lips?

So, what does it mean when my dog smacks his lips? The best clues are to notice what’s happening around your dog, how long the behavior lasts, and whether the lip smacking is paired with other behaviors.

Your Dog Sees or Smells Food

Most of the time, especially with an “I’ll do anything for food kinda breed,” a dog licking their lips is normal, especially around mealtime or if you’re filling their bowl. It could mean they’re anticipating dinner.

“If your dog is in the kitchen and you’re making something that smells really good, they may actually start drooling and licking their lips,” says Dr. Lori Teller, a veterinarian and clinical professor at Texas A&M University. “Sometimes it’s just like the lip-licking, lip-smacking emoji that you may use when somebody sends you a picture of a yummy meal.”

But what if your dog is smacking their lips after eating? Dr. Teller says not to worry. “They may also lick their lips or smack their lips just to get crumbs or water droplets off—normal hygiene.”

Sometimes a dog smacks his lips and swallows because saliva has built up in their mouth. “A lot of times when they’re doing lip-smacking behavior, there’s also excessive saliva production, and that makes them swallow,” Dr. Teller explains. “Sometimes they may drool; sometimes they’ll swallow that excess saliva instead of it drooling out.”

Your Dog is Feeling Nauseous

A dog licking lips and drooling around a tempting meal is easy to understand, but if your dog licks or smacks their lips persistently, without food motivation, it could signal a problem.

If your dog keeps smacking his lips, watch him closely; look for clues to help identify the cause.

“If the behavior is repetitive, accompanied by inappetence, vomiting, pawing, or excessive drooling, then a veterinary visit is recommended,” says Dr. Carly Fox, a senior veterinarian in the Emergency and Critical Care Service at the Schwarzman Animal Medical Center in New York City.

One of the top reasons a dog may continually smack their lips is due to nausea.

That was the culprit with one of my Labs, Macy. It all started after a swim at a lake. She began licking her lips repeatedly and frantically. We couldn’t get her to stop, so I took her to the animal hospital.

X-rays revealed sand in Macy’s stomach. She likely ingested it after her rubber ball got stuck in the sand and she obsessively attempted to dig it out.

The veterinarian attributed her lip licking to nausea, gave her medications, and luckily, the sand situation passed without long-term complications.

Dogs with GI upset or motion sickness may also smack their lips as a precursor to hearing another sound: that dreaded toilet-plunger noise.

Your Dog is Stressed or Anxious

Anxiety and stress can also cause a dog to smack their lips. Additionally, dogs may use lip smacking and lip licking as a calming or soothing signal.

Perhaps your dog is triggered by common situations that make some pups nervous, like visitors, loud noises, or unfamiliar environments like the animal hospital.

​“A lot of times we’ll see this with dogs in the exam room who are anxious or nervous about visiting the veterinarian, and they’ll lip smack in front of us,” Dr. Teller says. “Dogs with thunderstorm anxiety or changes in routine that are stressing them can also cause some lip smacking.”

​If your dog is smacking his lips when nervous and/or showing other signs of being uneasy, like yawning, chat with your veterinarian about ways to help alleviate that stress and make them more comfortable.

There’s Something Stuck in Your Dog’s Mouth

If your dog is smacking their lips and pawing their mouth, that’s a big clue they may have something stuck in there that they’re trying to get out.

​Sometimes they may also drool or rub their face on the furniture or ground.

​Food, bone fragments, and debris like sticks they were chewing on can become lodged in their mouth— even bee stingers. That’s what caused Labrador ER visit number two. This time it was Daisy’s turn.

My dogs got swarmed by bees when one of them stuck their nose in a hive on the ground along a wooded trail. After a pure debacle, we made it home, and Daisy started smacking her lips. Even though I gave the dogs Benadryl, panic set in. Was she having trouble breathing due to an allergic reaction? We raced to the animal hospital.

Turns out she had bee stingers lodged in her gums. The vet tech pulled them right out. Daisy was fine, but they could have caused an infection if we hadn’t removed them.

If you suspect something is stuck in your dog’s mouth, contact your veterinarian. Don’t reach into a distressed dog’s mouth or pull on an object you can’t remove safely.

Your Dog Has Dental or Mouth Pain

Tooth problems, gum disease, and other painful mouth conditions can also lead to lip smacking. Watch for bad breath, difficulty chewing, chewing on one side, drooling, or a change in appetite.

“If the dog has some kind of mouth pain, maybe a bad tooth, or something stuck in the top of their mouth, or somewhere between a couple of teeth, those kinds of things can occasionally cause lip smacking,” Dr. Teller says.

These types of cases call for medical attention.

When Dog Lip Smacking Is More Concerning

If it’s clear that the anticipation of food or a stressful situation isn’t causing your dog’s lip smacking, and if the behavior is new or keeps happening, call your vet, especially if the lip smacking is combined with any of these signs or symptoms:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Lethargy
  • Not eating
  • Distress
  • Having trouble breathing
  • Sudden behavior changes

Repeated lip movements can also occur during a seizure. “Rarely, dogs who have facial seizures can repetitively and involuntarily lick/smack their lips during an episode,” Dr. Fox says. “These dogs are typically mentally altered as well.”

Identifying Dog Smacking Lips Causes

To identify the cause of your dog’s lip smacking, try tracking the trigger:

  • Observe timing, frequency, and what’s happening in the dog’s environment when they start lip smacking
  • Take videos to show your veterinarian
  • Keep a lip-smacking log
  • Offer water if they seem thirsty
  • Check the dog’s mouth if it’s safe to do so

If lip smacking is new, note when it starts, how often it happens, and what your dog was doing just before they started. Does it happen near food? After a car ride? During a certain event?

​When it comes to lip smacking, context is your best clue for figuring out what your dog’s lip licking means.

​The cause of a dog’s lip smacking depends on the full picture. A few lip-licks as dinner is served may be nothing unusual. Persistent smacking, especially with drooling, pawing at the mouth, or a change in your dog’s behavior, deserves a closer look.

Dog Training Rewards: Timing, Markers, and Fading Treats

By
Editorial Staff
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Rewards are what make dog training work, and they’re also the source of the question trainers hear most: won’t I always need treats? Certified dog trainer Jae Thomas has a clear answer, and a method behind it.

Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor sat down with Jae Thomas, a WDJ contributor, to talk through how to use training rewards well.

Why rewards matter

At the simplest level, Jae says, a reward increases the chance a behavior happens again, and pairing it with a marker gives the dog immediate feedback about what they did right. Rewards aren’t only food, either: toy play, praise, and environmental rewards all count, and the right one depends on the dog and the skill.

Picking the right reward

Finding what motivates your dog is more art than science. Some dogs are food motivated, some will spit out food for a toy, and a treat can even be too high value, so exciting that a dog can’t think about the task. Jae suggests mapping your dog’s low-, medium-, and high-value rewards, and saving the best stuff for harder, more distracting situations.

Markers, and why “yes” comes first

A marker, a clicker or a word like “yes,” tells the dog the exact moment they got it right, and it has to be conditioned so the dog knows the marker means a reward is coming. A common mistake, Jae says, is rewarding without marking, which leaves the dog guessing what they’re being paid for.

Reward timing

Timing is the other art. Reward too early and you capture a half-finished behavior; reward too late and the dog has already broken position or offered something else. Jae explains high rate of reinforcement for distractible dogs and variable reinforcement, varying how many treats come per rep, which she calls the scientifically strongest way to build a behavior.

Will you always need treats?

Her honest answer: if you haven’t faded food properly or proofed the skill, yes. Even highly trained dogs need skills maintained and rewarded sometimes. But once a behavior is reliable across different places and distractions, you can start to wean off.

How to fade food the right way

Jae fades food with variable reinforcement, gradually adding reps with no cookie as the dog keeps succeeding, and backing up if the dog starts to fail (which she treats as the handler’s fault, not the dog’s). The same approach works for toys, though in sports like agility you never fully stop reinforcing; you just ask for longer behavior chains before the payoff.

The takeaway

Used well, treats aren’t a crutch; they’re how dogs learn, and a plan for fading them is part of the training. Watch the full interview above for Jae’s full breakdown.

Picking the Best Portable Shower for Your Dog

By
CJ Puotinen
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Portable dog showers can spare your car upholstery when walking your dog far from home.
Outdoor bathing options for dogs range from grooming-specific hose attachments to fully portable pressurized camp showers. Credit: Gabriel Mello | Getty Images

When it comes to keeping dogs tidy—especially if they are active, outdoors in muddy weather, or quick to need another bath right after bathing—traditional bathtubs, utility sinks, and do-it-yourself dog wash stations are a big help. But what if you’re traveling, camping, have a dog who is anxious about the bathtub, or just want a convenient way to bathe your dog in the back yard? That’s where a portable dog showers come in.

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What Are Portable Dog Showers?

Portable dog showers are take-everywhere devices that provide a gentle, controlled water spray by means of a pressure sprayer, garden hose attachment, or electric or battery powered submersible pump attached to a handheld nozzle.

Portable dog showers are popular because they:

  • Make it easy to rinse off muddy paws and coats before a dog enters your house or car, simplifying cleanup on floors, dog beds, car seats, and furniture.
  • Don’t require a formal grooming station. They work well in the back yard, while camping, at the beach, or wherever dogs get muddy or roll in anything malodorous.
  • Reduce an anxious dog’s stress by providing a quiet, gentle spray that is less noisy and distracting than standard bathtubs or showers.
  • Are easy to carry in a vehicle and compact enough to take just about anywhere.
Whole Dog Journal RatingModelTypeNotesPrice
RinseKit ProPressurized tank, rechargeableHigh-pressure cleaning with adjustable settings.$180
Beach SoulManual pump, hoseHand pump, adjustable showerhead. Holds 1.3-2.6 gallons of water.$120 - $290
NEMO HelloFoot-pumpedHolds 2.9 gallons of water.$160
Fohil ShowerRechargeableAdjustable spray modes. No built-in reservoir.$31
WondurdogHose attachmentGood for outdoor bathing where a hose is available. $60
The Original Pup Jet Dog WasherHose attachmentOutdoor use, soap dispenser$30
Kurgo ShowerGravity-fed streamHolds 1.5 gallons water$36
How Do Portable Dog Showers Work?

Instructions vary by model, but most portable dog showers involve these steps:

  • If the shower has a reservoir, fill it with warm water. If not, connect it to your water source, which can be an outdoor faucet, garden hose, or other source.
  • If the shower has an integrated dispenser, add dog-safe shampoo.
  • Point the nozzle toward your dog, starting with his paws and moving up the body. This rinses the dog efficiently, preventing dirt from being trapped in the coat.
  • Use your shower’s integrated brush, if available, or a washcloth or scrubbing brush to work shampoo into the dog’s coat.
  • Rinse the dog well using the shower’s spray function, moving in the direction of hair growth to avoid matting.
  • If using a separate conditioner, work it into your dog’s coat, then rinse thoroughly.
  • Finish by blotting your dog’s wet coat with absorbent towels.

What Is the Best Portable Shower for Your Dog?

The best portable shower for you dog will depend on what you plan to use it for. If your dog is active, spends time outdoors, likes to hike, and enjoys camping and similar activities, try a pressure-pump style. These are convenient because they hold their own water supply and do not need an electrical outlet or hose connection.

If your dog is uncomfortable with the bathing process and anxious about grooming, try a model with adjustable pressure settings or a soft-mist setting. Low-pressure, quiet showers help anxious dogs stay calm.

If your dog is large or has a very thick or heavy coat, look for models with a large water reservoir or a hose attachment that provides a continuous water flow. An integrated grooming brush with a handheld sprayer reaches all the way to the skin of double-coated breeds.

If you travel frequently with your dog, try a battery-powered or hand- or foot-pumped, bucket-style shower as these are the most compact and versatile.

Larger showers are heavy when full and most practical as a car- or truck-based setup rather than the grab-and-go models mentioned here.

Top Options for Portable Dog Showers

RinseKit Pro

The RinseKit Pro is a self-contained portable shower designed for cleanup on outdoor adventures like camping and beach trips. Its (rechargeable) battery-powered pressurization system aims to deliver a consistent spray without requiring a hose, electrical outlet, or manual pumping. It has a 3.5-gallon reservoir and a five-setting nozzle that offers spray options ranging from a concentrated jet to a mist. According to the company, the RinseKit Pro can operate continuously for six and a half minutes on the middle/center spray option and can hold water ranging from 33°F to 110°F. One consideration is its weight: the unit weighs 13 pounds empty and approximately 42 pounds when full, making it better suited to car-based adventures than backpacking.

Beach Soul Portable Shower

The Beach Soul Portable Shower is a pressurized, self-contained shower that provides water on demand without needing batteries or an electrical connection. It is available in several versions, including 1.3-, 2.1-, and 2.6-gallon options. Great for rinsing off sandy paws or muddy coats after walks, beach outings, and camping trips, it uses a hand pump to build pressure and a multi-mode showerhead to control water flow. The nozzle can also be set for continuous spraying, leaving both hands free to wash a dog. Additional features include a removable neoprene cover to help maintain water temperature and a 6.8-foot coiled hose. The 1.3-gallon model weighs 3.05 pounds empty and 14.3 pounds full while the 2.6-gallon option weighs 3.8 pounds empty and 22.6 pounds full.

NEMO Helio Portable Pressure Shower

Designed for campers and outdoor enthusiasts—human and canine alike—the NEMO Helio Portable Pressure Shower is pressurized using a foot pump. The 2.9-gallon reservoir is capable of delivering several minutes of steady water flow through a seven-foot hose. The shower’s two-stage nozzle can be set operate manually or as a continuous spray, making it easier keep a hand free to rinse a dog’s coat. The Helio features a wide tank opening aimed at simplifying filling, emptying, and cleaning, and a hose and pump that pack beneath the reservoir for compact storage. Empty, it weighs 1 pound 12 ounces.

Fohil Portable Rechargeable Shower

The Fohil Portable Shower is a compact electric shower designed to draw water from a separate container, such as a bucket or water basin. The pump uses a 6,000-mAh rechargeable battery designed for 120-150 minutes of continuous operation. The Fohil Portable Shower offers four adjustable spray modes allowing users to switch between higher and lower pressure options as needed. Its kit includes a hose, handheld showerhead, mounting accessories, and a digital display showing water temperature and remaining battery charge. This setup can be useful for washing dogs after hikes or camping trips, particularly when there is no convenient hose connection. Because the unit draws water from an external container rather than carrying its own large reservoir, owners can choose how much water to bring along. It weighs ‎2.18 pounds.

Wondurdog Dog Wash Attachment

The Wondurdog Dog Wash Attachment is a grooming attachment rather than a self-contained portable shower. It connects to compatible handheld shower or garden hoses and combines a spray nozzle with a rubber grooming brush and splash shield. The brush helps loosen dirt and massage the coat while the shield helps direct water away from the bather and reduces splashing around the dog’s face. Its eight-foot hose provides additional reach and the included garden hose adapter makes it possible to wash a dog outdoors. This design is best suited to backyards, patios, or locations where a water connection is readily available.

Jet Dog Washer

The Original Pup Jet Dog Washing Hose Attachment is an outdoor dog-washing tool that combines a garden hose nozzle with a built-in soap dispenser. It features eight spray patterns including options for a gentle shower, mist, and a more concentrated jet. The integrated 100 cc (approximately 3.4-ounce) soap dispenser applies shampoo directly through the sprayer and its thumb-operated control is designed for one-handed operation. Because it connects to a garden hose rather than holding its own water supply, it is best suited to locations with access to a hose rather than remote camping trips.

Kurgo Go Shower

The Kurgo Go Shower is a lightweight, collapsible shower designed to help dog owners clean up after outdoor adventures. Its 1.59-gallon water bladder supplies a gravity-fed stream through a retractable showerhead, which can be pulled out to start the flow and pushed back in to stop it. An adjustable strap allows the bag to hang from a suitable support, such as a vehicle door or tree branch, freeing both hands for scrubbing a dog. The compact design rolls up for storage, and built-in pockets provide space for small cleaning supplies. While the Go Shower is a convenient choice for quick rinses after hikes and camping trips, its relatively small capacity (the water supply lasts about 2 minutes) and lack of water pressure make it better suited to spot cleaning or bathing smaller dogs rather than lengthier cleanups or washing large, heavily coated breeds.

 

Dog Allergies: How to Spot Them and What to Do

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Editorial Staff
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A dog that scratches, licks, and digs at itself all day is one of the most common things owners bring to the vet, and allergies are usually behind it. The good news, says veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, is that today’s treatments are safe and effective.

Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor sat down with Dr. Fatcheric to cover how to recognize dog allergies and what to do about them.

The two kinds of dog allergies

Dr. Fatcheric groups dog allergies into two broad buckets: food allergies and environmental (inhaled) allergies, known as atopy. Pinning down exactly what an environmental dog is allergic to is tough, so vets often treat the itch rather than chase every trigger. One clue that points toward food is timing: food-allergic dogs tend to itch year-round, while environmental allergies are often seasonal.

The sign to watch for

The hallmark of allergies, Dr. Fatcheric says, is normal, healthy-looking skin that itches. If your dog is thumping a hind leg, digging at its ears, or rubbing on the carpet, look at the skin first. If you don’t see lesions, pimples, scabs, or crusts when the itch starts, she treats that as allergies until proven otherwise.

Diagnosing a food allergy

You can’t diagnose a food allergy by grabbing a different bag off the shelf, because too many foods share ingredients. Instead, vets use a diet trial with one of two food types: a limited-ingredient diet (ideally a single novel protein the dog has never eaten, like fish, plus one carbohydrate) or a hydrolyzed-protein diet (a prescription food in which the protein is broken into pieces too small for the immune system to react to). The catch is that the trial has to run 8 to 12 weeks with nothing else passing the dog’s lips, which Dr. Fatcheric admits is hard in a house with toddlers.

Environmental allergies, testing, and shots

For environmental allergies, blood testing can identify common inhaled allergens, and some labs offer regional panels. But Dr. Fatcheric says the main reason to test is if you plan to pursue allergy shots (hyposensitization), which remain the gold standard in the literature but are slow and labor-intensive. Most owners, she notes, rely on medication instead, since today’s drugs calm the itch no matter what the dog is reacting to.

Medications that stop the itch

The two main players now are Apoquel, a daily oral medication, and Cytopoint, an injection given every four to eight weeks as needed. Dr. Fatcheric also mentions Atopica (cyclosporine) as an older option that still has a place. She explains, in plain terms, how these drugs interrupt the inflammatory cascade that ends in the itch.

Managing an itchy dog day to day

Beyond medication, Dr. Fatcheric points to medicated shampoos used at the right interval, spot treatment for localized irritation under a vet’s direction, and fish oil for its anti-inflammatory effect and skin support. One thing she tells every allergic-dog owner: do not skip flea and tick control, because an allergic dog can break out from a single flea bite.

The takeaway

Her long-term goal is simple: stop the itch, because a dog that keeps scratching ends up with secondary infections and a much bigger problem. Watch the full interview above, and work with your own veterinarian to find the approach that fits your dog.

Is your dog overweight? A vet’s simple plan

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Editorial Staff
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Extra weight on a dog creeps up so slowly that most owners don’t notice until the vet points it out, and in America an overweight dog has started to look normal.

Veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM sat down with Whole Dog Journal’s Kate O’Connor to explain how to tell if your dog is overweight and what to actually do about it.

What she covers:

  • What a body condition score is, and why a 5 out of 9 is the goal
  • How to check your dog at home without a scale
  • Why extra weight feeds the joint-pain and arthritis cycle
  • A simple way to cut calories without starving your dog
  • Why treats count, plus a trick for multi-person households
  • How fast is safe to take the weight off, and how to ease into exercise

Does your dog actually need a novel protein food?

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Editorial Staff
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Novel protein foods (duck, rabbit, kangaroo) get recommended a lot for itchy dogs. But most itchy dogs don’t actually have a food allergy, so it’s worth knowing when one really helps.

In our new video, companion animal nutritionist Dr. Mary Cope, PhD, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:

  • What makes a protein “novel,” and why it’s usually the protein, not the grain
  • Which dogs a novel protein diet actually helps
  • The drawbacks, including why a food may not be as novel as you think
  • How novel protein differs from a hydrolyzed diet
  • Why you shouldn’t start one without your vet
  • How to choose a novel protein, including some unusual, sustainable options

What to watch for with cancer in dogs

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Editorial Staff
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Cancer is one of the things dog owners dread most, and one of the most common things our dogs face. Knowing the signs and the options makes it a little less overwhelming.

In our new video, veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:

  • The cancers vets see most often in dogs, and the breeds more at risk
  • The early signs worth bringing to your vet
  • How cancer is staged and what treatment involves
  • What chemo and surgery mean for survival time and quality of life
  • Lower-cost options that can keep a dog comfortable
  • Honest, compassionate guidance for a hard diagnosis
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