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Video: Wet food or dry food: which is better for your dog?

By
Editorial Staff
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Wet or dry is one of the most common dog food questions, and the honest answer isn’t one or the other. It depends on your dog, and on a few things worth knowing before you shop.

In our new video, companion animal nutritionist Dr. Mary Cope, PhD, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:

  • Where dry food wins: cost, convenience, storage, and calorie control
  • Where wet food wins: moisture, palatability, and dogs with dental issues
  • When she’d steer you toward one over the other
  • The real nutritional differences in moisture, carbs, and meat
  • A simple trick for getting a picky dog to eat
  • What to check on the label before you buy either one

Video: The Easiest Way To Tire Out Your Dog Indoors

By
Editorial Staff
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A snuffle mat or a lick mat can turn a cup of kibble into 20 minutes of quiet, and give a restless dog something better to do than pester you.

In our new video, certified dog trainer Jae Thomas talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:

  • Why sniffing is mental exercise and licking helps an anxious dog calm down
  • How snuffle mats and lick mats each work, and which food goes on which
  • What to look for when you buy one, from hiding spots to easy cleanup
  • The snuffle mats and lick mats Jae actually uses with her own dogs
  • How to use them for enrichment without overfeeding your dog

Why a Dog Has Raised Hackles

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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0
A dogs hackles are raised-hair stands on end-when they are alarmed by something.
This dog’s hackles are slightly raised because he clearly thinks the cat is not in her proper place. Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

Most dog lovers think raised back hair is a sign of aggression.  That is not necessarily the case. The context of the environment as well as the dog’s body language and micro facial expressions must be taken into consideration to determine what is happening when it comes to raised hackles.

This nervous-system response, technically called “piloerection,” can also be caused by excitement, stress, fear, and even curiosity. Of course, it also happens when a dog feels defensive, which is where the typical expectation comes from.

Dogs do involuntarily experience piloerection when feeling defensive. It’s an autonomic response that creates the illusion of looking bigger, the body’s attempt to appear more threatening to adequately defend oneself against a threat, whether perceived or actual.

Because of that involuntary and often defensive response, seeing one’s dog with their hair standing up on end can be worrisome to the average dog person. What must be considered, however, is the whole picture.

Common Reasons for Raised Hair on a Dog

The most common reasons that a dog may have their hackles raised include:

  1. Aggression: No dog is inherently aggressive. It’s not a personality trait. It’s an action. An aggression action is a response to something that causes a dog to feel threatened. Body-language signals can help a dog parent to identify this reason include barking, a stiff posture with forward head position, a raised high stiff tail. Aggression responses can be either offensive or defensive so the mouth itself will look slightly different with one versus the other. Regardless, either or all the above indicates a willingness to defend oneself, which is the important part of this equation.
  2. Fear: A fearful piloerection response in dogs can include some of the above body language but instead of a stiff raised tail, the tail body language is more likely to be tucked underneath the dog’s body, and the body positioning may look more backward than forward. Both are technically an aggressive response but for different reasons.
  3. Anxiety or Stress: A dog who is feeling anxious can display some actions from both the above categories but without an aggressive response. You may simply see pacing and whining as well as some displacement gestures, such as out of context self-grooming or suddenly having an intense need to scratch oneself.
  4. Curiosity: An example of this category could include a dog seeing something novel in the environment. Their hackles will raise up, but they will be willing to investigate the new thing. They may hesitantly approach the new thing in a curved manner, with their tail low and hesitant, possibly also wagging at body level with a slightly anxious look of such, while sniffing the ground. This is normal.
  5. Excitement: I have several clients with dogs who get raised hackles when I arrive for our sessions because they are excited and happy to see me. With this reason behind piloerection in dogs, you will see obvious signs of happiness such as loose wiggly body language, an enthusiastically wagging tail, and a bouncy manner along with an open, relaxed mouth.

What You Should Know About Dog Raised Hackles

The bottom line is that it’s crucial to look at the context so that you can make a better determination of the reason behind your dog’s hair suddenly standing up. Knowing your own individual dog and learning to recognize their typical body-language signals—including raised hair on their backs—will help you make better decisions on whether you remove them from the situation or not.

If you are truly dealing with aggression issues in your dog, seek out the help of a competent dog trainer and talk with your veterinarian about possible medication.

If your dog is easily becomes afraid, this may mean you should work more on her socialization skills by getting her out for walks in different places and maybe taking her into a store that allows dogs. Again, the help of a dog trainer who is educated in dealing with these types of dogs will be money well spent.

Dog Vaccines Explained: Core Shots, Boosters, and Titers

By
Editorial Staff
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0

Vaccines are one of the few things every dog owner deals with, and one of the topics owners ask about most. Which shots does a dog actually need? How often? And what if your dog had a bad reaction last time?

Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor put those questions to veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, a 1988 graduate of Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine who now practices in Syracuse, New York.

Core vaccines vs. lifestyle vaccines

Core vaccines are recommended for every dog, whatever the dog’s lifestyle. For years that meant distemper-parvo and rabies. Dr. Fatcheric explains that leptospirosis has now joined the core list, and why: lepto is a bacterial disease spread through wildlife urine, and it can pass from dogs to people.

Other vaccines depend on where your dog goes and what it does. The Lyme vaccine makes sense for dogs exposed to ticks in long grass or wooded areas, alongside tick prevention. Kennel cough (Bordetella) is for dogs who spend time indoors with other dogs at groomers, daycare, or boarding. Canine influenza is becoming more common for dogs who travel.

The puppy schedule, and why it takes several shots

Puppies typically start the distemper-parvo series at 6 to 8 weeks and get a booster every 3 to 4 weeks until at least 16 weeks old. Dr. Fatcheric explains how antibodies from the mother’s milk interfere with early vaccines, and why the repeat doses are designed to cover the gap. She also warns owners against keeping puppies locked away until the series is done, since that is the prime window for socialization.

Boosters for adult dogs

Lepto, Lyme, kennel cough, and influenza are generally boosted every year. Rabies is good for one year after the first shot, then typically three years after the booster, though rules vary by state. Distemper-parvo is commonly given every three years after the first annual booster.

Titers and when to skip a vaccine

For owners who want to avoid unnecessary shots, a titer test measures a dog’s antibody level to distemper and parvo. Dr. Fatcheric explains what the results mean and the main argument against relying on them.

She also covers the situations where she would delay or avoid a vaccine: a past anaphylactic reaction, milder reactions that can be managed with pretreatment, and dogs with immune-mediated disease. For dogs who can’t be vaccinated, she talks through how to reduce exposure risk, and what to expect with rabies laws.

The takeaway

Every dog’s needs are a little different. Watch the full interview above, then bring your questions to your own veterinarian.

Why Does My Dog Keep Stretching?

By
Dan Muse
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A dog may keep stretching to the point it may seem strange.
A dog who stretches comfortably into a play bow generally has a bright expression and may even wag his tail in anticipation of fun to come. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images

Like you, your dog probably stretches—and keeps stretching—throughout the day. She might stretch first thing in the morning, or bow low, paws wide with a wagging tail and wide eyes when she’s ready to play.

In general, dogs stretch for a variety of reasons, which usually fall into four main categories:

  • Post-rest wake-up: Boosting blood flow after a nap or long sleep.
  • Pre-exercise warmup: Lengthening muscles before a walk, hike, or run.
  • Social interaction: The classic play bow, which expresses an invitation to interact.
  • Discomfort or pain: Signaling physical stiffness, abdominal distress, or joint issues.

While not all stretches serve the same purpose, most of the time, stretching is a normal part of your dog’s life, says Ali Smith, a Maryland-based dog trainer and behavioral consultant. “Dogs have just spent time resting, so stretching helps wake up the muscles and get everything moving again. It’s no different than us stretching when we get out of bed in the morning. You’ll often see a big stretch and a good yawn after a nap, or just before heading out for a walk when excitement levels start to rise.”

Stretch vs. Play Bow: What’s the Difference?

A dog’s play bow is a variation of a stretch. While a play bow also features a dog lowering her front end while keeping her rear end elevated, it is typically accompanied by a wagging tail, loose body language, and direct eye contact. It acts as a clear signal to other dogs—and humans—that whatever happens next is intended to be fun.

How do you tell the difference?

“This is one of my favorite questions because they look remarkably similar. The important part is context,” says Smith. She says that a functional stretch is generally about the dog’s own body. Once finished, the dog simply moves on with her day. “A play bow is communication.”

Emotional and Behavioral Resets

Beyond loosening muscles or signaling playtime, stretching can also serve as an emotional release. Rather than addressing a physical need, a stretch can act as a displacement behavior when a dog is processing excitement, mild frustration, or environmental changes.

“Dogs have lots of little reset behaviors that we humans tend to be ignorant of,” says Smith. “They shake off after something exciting, yawn when they’re conflicted, sniff the ground when they’re unsure, and stretching can fit into that same category.”

“I often see dogs stretch during training if they’re feeling overwhelmed coupled with a yawn, or after working through something challenging. It doesn’t necessarily mean they’re distressed. It can simply be their way of releasing a bit of tension before carrying on.”

When to Worry About Dog Stretching

Beyond behavioral resets, stretching can be sign of pain. Distinguishing between an aging dog warming up stiff joints and a dog in acute pain, for example, can be tricky, but veterinary science uses body language as a critical diagnostic tool.

To help veterinarians and dog owners evaluate discomfort, institutions like  Colorado State University and the University of Glasgow developed objective canine pain scales. These frameworks analyze specific postural shifts—such as rigid stretching, arched backs, and abdominal guarding—as primary indicators of moderate to severe pain.

The key is to know the difference between a normal play bow and what veterinarians call the prayer position. In medical terms, it’s referred to as a visceral pain stance. In the prayer position, a dog lowers her chest and front legs to the ground while keeping her rear elevated. It’s like a play bow but is rigid and without any playful body language.

How to Spot Stretching From Pain

While most stretches are innocuous, a stretch can sometimes signal acute stiffness or severe internal distress. As your dog’s primary caregiver, it’s up to you to distinguish between an aging dog warming up stiff joints and a dog in medical trouble.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, clinical signs that may suggest the presence of abdominal pain or discomfort include the prayer position where a dog lowers his chest and forelegs close to the floor while keeping his hindquarters elevated. Dogs instinctively assume this posture because extending the abdomen helps relieve pressure on inflamed internal organs, such as the stomach or pancreas.

Common medical causes for the prayer position include:

  • Abdominal pain: Conditions such as acute pancreatitis, bloat, gastroenteritis, or a swallowed object cause severe abdominal discomfort that a dog tries to ease by holding this pose.
  • Gastrointestinal issues: Inflammatory bowel disease, stomach ulcers, or intestinal blockages.
  • Musculoskeletal problems: Spinal issues, neck pain, or joint pain in the front limbs can lead to a similar rigid stance.
  • Systemic or neurological conditions: Severe internal inflammation or organ distress.

When Is It Time for a Vet Visit?

As normal as a stretch usually is, a sudden shift in frequency or posture can be red flags. You should seek veterinary assessment if you notice:

  • Stretching is sudden, frequent, or repetitive.
  • A held prayer position where your dog seems unable to settle.
  • Accompanying symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, panting, an arched back, a guarded/painful belly, or a sudden loss of appetite.

“If the stretching is new, excessive, or accompanied by changes in appetite, energy levels, movement, vomiting, diarrhea, or signs that the dog seems uncomfortable, that’s where I’d stop thinking behavior and encourage a veterinary assessment,” Smith says. “Pain can look like a behavior problem before it looks like a medical one.”

While it’s important to know your dog’s habits and routines, so you can note changes, stretching, on its own, is usually just stretching. As Smith says, dogs aren’t always secretly communicating complex messages every time they do something normal.

How to Handle a Dog’s Diarrhea at Home

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
home remedies for dog diarrhea come in many forms from routine to esoteric.
A dog battling diarrhea needs plenty of fresh water to combat the dehydration, but reconsider allowing him to drink from a public fountain, not matter how attractive he finds the spout. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

We’re talking about mild diarrhea in your dog in this article. If your dog has bloody diarrhea, is also vomiting, won’t eat or drink, or has had diarrhea more than 24 to 48 hours, it is not a mild case of diarrhea. You need to contact your veterinarian.

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Video: Which vaccines does your dog actually need?

By
Editorial Staff
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0

Most dog owners follow whatever vaccine schedule their vet hands them. Knowing why each shot is on that list makes it a lot easier to ask the right questions.

In our new video interview, veterinarian Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, talks with executive editor Kate O’Connor about:

  • The core vaccines every dog needs, and a recent addition to that list
  • Lyme, kennel cough, and flu vaccines, and which dogs they’re for
  • Why puppies need a series of shots, and why you shouldn’t keep your puppy home until it’s done
  • How often adult dogs need boosters
  • Whether titer testing can help you avoid overvaccinating
  • When a dog should delay or skip a vaccine

Why Does My Dog Sleep on His Back? What It Means and When to Worry

By
Mary Schwager
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2
Dogs sleep on their backs because they find the position comfortable or they want to cool down.
Dogs typically sleep on their backs because they’re comfortable, have a preference for the position, or want to cool down a bit. Credit: fotografixx | Getty Images

Catching your dog sleeping on their back may make you do a double take. It’s a somewhat alarming pooch position because it looks so similar to the “play dead” pose: belly up, paws relaxed, legs in the air, not a care in the world.

You might think, “Is my dog OK?”

Once you’re relieved to see he’s still breathing, even snoring away, you may begin to ponder: Why does my dog sleep on his back? Is it normal for dogs to sleep on their back? It’s definitely one of the more unusual, yet somewhat hilarious-looking, dog sleep positions.

Turns out that snoozing upside down is a pretty normal pup sleeping position. But what does it mean, and should you ever worry about it?

Why Do Dogs Sleep On Their Backs?

One of the main reasons a dog sleeps belly up is to cool down.

“For a lot of dogs, it can help with temperature regulation,” says Lori Teller, a veterinarian and clinical professor at Texas A&M University. “There’s less hair on their belly, so when they are flipped over, it allows more air exposure to their skin; sometimes you’ll see it when it’s been warm out and they’re in a nice, cool, air-conditioned space.”

Sometimes a dog sleeping on his back signals they’re comfortable, relaxed, and secure.

“The dog feels safe enough to expose the most vulnerable part of their body, so it means the dog is mentally and physically comfortable,” Dr. Teller says. “Dogs that are anxious or on alert about something do not expose their belly. Owners should recognize that dogs are very comfortable when they’re exposing their belly in their presence.”

But if your dog doesn’t sleep on their back, don’t be offended.

“Some dogs may not sleep on their backs; this does not mean that they don’t trust you,” Dr. Teller says. “The body conformation of some dogs may make it uncomfortable to sleep on their backs. We all have preferences for the position we sleep in and this is true of dogs as well.”

A dog’s sleeping position may vary depending on where they’re napping, the room temperature, what feels comfortable that day, and their age. But sometimes a dog’s sleeping position has a deeper meaning you should watch for.

When a Dog Sleeping On Their Back Could Be a Concern

While most of the time you don’t have to worry about the meaning of a dog sleeping on their back, if your dog has never slept on their back and suddenly starts, or stops, it’s worth keeping an eye on, especially if your dog is older.

“Does it look like the dog is having a hard time finding a comfortable position because of a joint issue or pain somewhere? Is the dog looking for a position that helps relieve some of that pain? That may warrant an exam with your veterinarian and a second look,” Dr. Teller says.

The reverse is also true; if your dog used to sleep on their back and stops (or changes their usual sleeping position), that could signal they’ve developed a condition that causes pain or discomfort.

Besides potential orthopedic issues, also watch for respiratory changes.

“If the dog is restless, panting, they may shift positions a lot, looking for a position that is more comfortable for them to breathe,” Dr. Teller says. “This is not super common, but if this is a dog who has never done this, and this is a new behavior, and you see breathing changes, then it’s definitely worth an exam and a chat with your veterinarian.”

How To Help Your Dog Sleep Comfortably

Just like humans, your dog needs beauty rest; in fact, dogs typically need more sleep than people do and you can help them stay comfy while they snooze.

Your dog may be better suited to chill out in a cooler room, especially if they have a heavy coat. (Here’s how to identify your dog’s coat type.)  Dogs with double and triple coats like Huskies, Chow Chows, and Samoyeds likely prefer you have air conditioning, but fans can also help.

“You can get a fan and put it on low,” Dr. Teller says. “Make sure it’s in a safe area where the dog can’t stick their nose into the blades, trip over it, or chew wires.”

Hairless pups or those with light, thin coats, like Chihuahuas, Greyhounds, and Boxers, may sleep more soundly at a slightly higher temperature.

Watch your dog’s sleeping position and body language for signs they’re comfortable.

“A lot of this will be individual dog-dependent,” Dr. Teller says. “If humans tend to like it cooler in the house than the dog, and your dog is shivering, then certainly you can put a sweater or something on your dog.”

Once you’ve mastered the perfect temperature in your house for you and your woofer, it’s time to think about your dog’s bed.

Your pooch will thrive in one that’s nice and comfy, especially if your dog lives with mobility issues. Pet supply companies and retailers now make and carry a vast array of orthopedic and specialty dog beds.

“Your dog may find the orthopedic foam beds to be more comfortable if they have arthritis or another painful condition,” Dr. Teller says. “For those living in particularly warm climates, they also make some beds that have cooling features, just like they make the mattresses for us. These may help some dogs sleep more comfortably as well.”

If you live in a chilly climate, The Whole Dog Journal also checked out an assortment of warming beds.

Why Is My Dog Sleeping On His Back?

Though seeing your dog sleeping on their back with their legs up might be surprising at first, that sleeping position could signal love and trust in you—but don’t be insulted if your dog doesn’t sleep on their back.

Your dog’s favorite sleeping positions may change day to day and over their lifetime. What matters is whether the position is new for your dog and whether you notice other changes. Does your dog moan or groan as they lie down or get back up? Do they seem stiff? Or like they can’t find a comfortable position?

What matters most is what’s typical for your dog.

It’s up to pet parents to decide whether their dog is just enjoying life or could use a bit of help, especially as they get older—and, of course, so they don’t take a header off the couch because they’re sleeping on their backs and are so relaxed!

Otherwise, let those bellies show, and watch those legs and paws defy gravity.

Anti-Anxiety Products for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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2
Dog anxiety supplements are over the counter supplements that may help with a dog's anxiety.
Anti-anxiety supplements for dogs come in many forms. Calming chews, liquids, tablets, capsules, and powders are all readily available. Credit: Vanessa Nunes | Getty Images

Thunder, fireworks, loud noises, groomers, veterinarians, staying home alone, encountering strangers, car rides, and unexpected events are among the many things that can cause enough stress to interfere with a dog’s health and happiness. Because so many dogs are adversely affected by stress, anxiety relief products like gummies, chews, tinctures, and other calming remedies have become an industry that in 2025 generated over $18 billion in worldwide sales. Would your dog benefit from a non-prescription anti-anxiety product?

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How to Treat Yeast Infections in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Early detection is the key to how to treat yeast infections in dogs.
Dogs with drop ears are more prone to ear infections. Shaking their heads can be a symptom. Credit: Berk Ucak | Getty Images

Yeast infections can be a minor inconvenience or a major recurring hassle. The most common yeast found in infections in dogs is Malassezia, which thrives in warm, moist areas on the dog’s body. That means that ears, paws, and skin, especially the groin and armpit areas. These are favorite spots for yeast to colonize on your dog.

The best treatment will attack the yeast, and possible secondary bacterial infections, while you work on the underlying cause (that is a must!). Topical treatments are the first choice. This means medicated shampoos, mousse, or ear drops. Oral medications can be necessary for severe and stubborn cases of yeast.

If you catch a yeast infection while it is just getting started, some home treatments can help. For example, for paw infections, soaking in Epsom salts to clean the paws is a first step. Then dry the paws carefully and apply foot powder. Most foot powders are anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antibacterial, anti-itch, and taste bad so they discourage licking. Gold Bond is a personal favorite. While I would not put foot powder in a dog’s ears, it works for mild armpit, paws, and groin cases.

Does My Dog Have a Yeast Infection?

Many dogs live in harmony with a low level of yeast. When something tips the balance, however, your dog will start to show clinical symptoms.

You might notice your dog rubbing or scratching his ears, a musty sort of smell, and when you lift the ear, you might see moist, red inflammation or dark debris. Either way, this yeast infection can be painful for your dog. With severe cases, your dog may hold his ears funny (sort of like “airplane ears,” where he tries to hold them out from his head). He may also have a mild head tilt.

Yeast infections on paws tend to start in the spaces in between toes. If you look carefully, you will see moist, red, and inflamed skin. The surrounding hair may turn brown due to enzymes in your dog’s saliva as he licks and chews on his feet. There is an odor, too. If his paws become painful, he may limp, shorten his stride, or become less active.

Yeast infections in the skin tend to be red, moist, and inflamed areas along with the sickly, sweet odor. If areas where your dog can lick are involved, the hair will be discolored. The haircoat may feel greasy.

What Causes a Yeast Infection in a Dog?

Causes for yeast infection tend to center around disruptions of the immune system. That might mean allergies (ear yeast infections often tie in with food allergies specifically), endocrine disorders such as hypothyroidism, grass and pollen allergies for the paws, or secondary to external parasites like fleas and mites. Obviously, you want to try and determine the underlying cause, if possible, as treating that will help to cure the yeast problem.

Yeast infections tend to be more common in dogs with drop ears like Cocker Spaniels, Basset Hounds, and other breeds with drop ears. Ear canals are often moist and tend to be warm and safe for yeast. Your veterinarian can diagnose a yeast infection by doing a slide impression of the affected area and examining it under the microscope.

Remember that your dog may need a diet change as well. Diagnosing food allergies requires food trials. Sometimes simply changing the protein source may be all you need. Adding a good, canine probiotic can also help.

Caught early, yeast infections can be reasonably easy to treat, especially once you identify the triggers.

Video: How to Help an Overweight Dog Lose Weight

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Have an overweight dog that needs to lose weight. Check out our handy video guide.

Extra weight creeps up on dogs, and it’s easy for an owner to miss. It also matters: excess body fat raises a dog’s risk of arthritis, diabetes, breathing problems, and trouble getting around.

Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor talked with companion animal nutritionist Mary Cope, PhD, about how to tell when a dog is carrying too much weight and how to take it off safely.

How to tell if your dog is overweight

Dr. Cope says the ribs are the first thing to check. You should be able to feel them under a light covering of fat, see a waist from above, and see a tuck behind the ribcage from the side. A dog can still have a waist and a tuck and be overweight, so go by the ribs first.

She also suggests thinking about extra weight as a share of the dog’s body, not in pounds. One extra pound is a lot on a Chihuahua and very little on a Great Dane. In the video she demonstrates a quick test that uses your own hand to show what a dog’s ribs should feel like. Sighthounds are the exception and have their own body condition chart.

Smaller portions or a weight-management food?

If you caught the weight gain early, feeding a little less of the regular food can be enough. Dr. Cope trims her own dogs’ portions in winter, when they get less exercise.

For a dog with more to lose, she recommends a weight-management food. Cutting a regular food in half also cuts the protein, vitamins, and minerals in half. A weight-loss formula lowers the calories while keeping those nutrients in place, so the dog can eat a normal volume of food and still feel full.

Don’t rely on the feeding guide on the bag

Many owners of overweight dogs tell Dr. Cope they feed exactly what the bag recommends. Those amounts are generalized and tend to run high, she says. Use them as a starting point, then adjust to what you see on your own dog.

What to look for in a weight-loss food

Start with “complete and balanced.” Then find the calorie statement on the back of the bag, usually in small print, and compare kilocalories per cup. That means a standard 8-ounce measuring cup, not whatever cup is in the cupboard.

Dr. Cope looks for lower calories, good animal protein to support lean muscle, and higher fiber to help a dog feel full. The goal is slow, gradual weight loss the dog can maintain. For a very overweight dog, work with your veterinarian, who can help the dog lose weight safely.

Treats count

The rule of thumb is to keep treats under 10 percent of daily calories, which is hard to track for a small dog. Dr. Cope’s fix is to hold back about a quarter of the day’s food and hand that out as treats. Unsalted canned green beans, thin slices of carrot, and small pieces of lean meat are low-calorie options. Daily dental chews add up quickly.

How to know the plan is working

Weigh your dog every two to four weeks. Most veterinary offices will let you stop in and use the scale. Plateaus are normal. If there’s no loss, or a gain, after four weeks, it’s time to adjust the plan and talk to your vet.

Dr. Cope has done this herself. She adopted a beagle who weighed 50 pounds and should have weighed 22 to 24.

Her advice for owners

Measure everything, limit unplanned extras, and get the whole household on board, because one person slipping the dog table scraps can undo the plan. And skip the guilt. Dr. Cope says there is no shame in having a dog who needs to lose a few pounds.

Watch the full interview above for the hand test and the rest of Dr. Cope’s advice, then ask your veterinarian to help you set a target weight for your dog.

Video: Is your dog overweight? Most owners can’t tell

By
Editorial Staff
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0

In this video interview, companion animal nutritionist Mary Cope, PhD, talks with Whole Dog Journal executive editor Kate O’Connor about how to catch a weight problem early and fix it safely.

They cover:

  • A hand test that shows you what your dog’s ribs should feel like
  • When smaller portions are enough, and when to switch to a weight-management food
  • Why the feeding amount on the bag may be working against you
  • What to look for on a weight-loss food label
  • How to keep giving treats without undoing the diet
  • How often to weigh your dog, and when to change the plan
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