Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 88

How to Care For Your Dogs When You’re Not Well

1
sick person with dog on sofa
Adult dogs are often content to keep us company on our sickbeds, at least for a few days. It’s more of a challenge to keep puppies and adolescent dogs out of trouble when we’re not feeling up to providing their usual amount of exercise. © Photo by Justin Paget, Getty Images

All the world’s viruses seem to be having their way with us at the moment. I don’t think I know anybody who isn’t sick right now, just getting over being sick, or caring for someone else who is sick – and dreading getting sick themselves. (That last part is me; my husband has been down for an entire week with fever, sore throat, cough, lethargy, etc. And my sore throat just started – ACK!)

One of the rough parts of being sick is having to take care of your pets, no matter how terrible you feel. It’s one thing if there is someone else in your household who can step up to handle feeding, walking/pottying, and other care chores when you don’t feel up to it, but many of us are either on our own, or partnered with housemates who just can’t seem to manage any more than the most basic pet-care tasks.

I don’t know why I didn’t think of writing about this topic early on in the pandemic, or even when everyone in my house (husband, self, visiting grandson) got Covid last summer. Maybe because, thank dog, we got through that fairly easily – whereas this current virus (or, who knows, more than one virus?) has been delivering more of a knockout punch, and has me worrying about how I’m going to keep Boone from alienating all our neighbors with barking or eating all our furniture if I can’t get him out onto a trail for more than a week. At not quite one year of age, his low-management good behavior lasts no more than 48 hours after an off-leash hike or playdate with another adolescent dog. Try to go any longer than that, and some package is going to get chewed or buried, shoes will be relocated to the back of the pasture, neighborhood walkers will be barked at for the full length of our 2-acre corner-lot fence, and so on. Mischief will be made!

Contemplating the potential for destruction as I take my rising temperature, I remembered that we’ve previously published two articles that were about, at least tangentially, how to care for and exercise your dogs when you are not operating at full power. Both this article and this one were written by authors who were sidelined by physical incapacity (surgery, in the first case, and age-related physical limitations in the second) rather than illness – but they both offered good ideas about caring for your pets when you are not at your physical best.

Though our Training Editor Pat Miller wrote this article about how to keep your dog entertained (and out of trouble) when he is supposed to be kept quiet (after surgery for a broken leg or a repaired ACL, for example), many of its suggestions could be used to occupy a young or energetic dog when you aren’t feeling up to taking him for his usual walks.

Back-up caregivers

I would also encourage any dog owner to have a short-term and a longer-term emergency caregiver lined up, just in case. What if you had a car accident or a stroke – or even needed to be hospitalized for a few days with Covid or RSV? We all should have at least one person, and a backup or two (if possible), who could (and would) care for our dogs for a day or three in case we are incapacitated, short-term, for any reason.

And, though this is a much more difficult “ask,” we all should have a plan for our dogs’ long-term care if we were out of commission for something more like weeks or months. Is there anyone who could take your dogs for that long? A neighbor, family member, good friend, co-worker? Think about who might be a candidate, take them out for lunch to discuss it with them, and make sure that they would be enthusiastically on board.

And – maybe this is just the impending illness getting me down – we should also have a plan in place for who would take our dogs if we passed away. This in-depth article is a fantastic guide to setting up a Trust for your pets, which would cover everything they would need (except you) in the event of your untimely death.

Forgive me for feeling a bit dark at this festive time of year! I think I’m going to hand out some frozen food-filled Kongs to my three dogs and go back to bed. I don’t want this cold taking me out!

Blastomycosis in Dogs

0
Blastomycosis in dogs is a fungal infection, often affecting the respiratory tract.
The fungus that causes blastomycosis thrives in warm, moist environments, like decaying leaves and soil. A dog playing with leaves like this is releasing mold spores into the air. Once inhaled, the spores can thrive and reproduce. Credit: Kristin Castenschiold / Getty Images

If you’re wondering what is blastomycosis in dogs, consider yourself lucky. Blastomycosis, sometimes referred to as simply “blasto,” is a nasty fungal infection that causes respiratory problems and can lead to death. If you haven’t heard of it, your dog hasn’t gotten this diagnosis.

Dogs (and humans!) can be infected when they accidentally breathe in fungal spores. The fungus is found in warm wet climates and resides in decaying matter, like leaves, and in soil. Once the spores are inhaled, they thrive in the warm, moist environment of the dog’s airways and lungs and begin to reproduce. In severe cases, the infection can spread to other organs in the body.

Blastomycosis Symptoms

Blastomycosis symptoms in dogs usually look like a respiratory infection and include coughing, difficulty breathing, weight loss, and lethargy. If other organ systems are infected, the dog might also have a fever, lameness, eye problems, or skin lesions. Blastomycosis is not contagious.

Blastomycosis Treatment

Blasto is treated with anti-fungal medications, as well as treatments targeted for any of the symptoms that your dog is experiencing. Dogs with mild respiratory signs generally have a good prognosis and are able to make a full recovery, but this disease can be fatal.

Blastomycosis Prevention

How to prevent blastomycosis in dogs? There is no sure-fire strategy, as we cannot see the fungal spores in the air or leaf litter. Avoiding areas where blasto is prevalent is the best strategy.

In the United States, blasto is most common in the midwestern, south-central, and southeastern states. The Mississippi, Missouri, Tennessee, and Ohio River basins, Great Lakes, and St. Laurence Seaway are the areas with the most cases reported. The fungus that causes it, Blastomyces dermatitidis, prefers a warm, moist environment.

If you live in one of these areas or have visited them with your dog, seek veterinary attention immediately if you notice any respiratory abnormalities – prompt treatment is the best way to protect your dog.

What Is Heterochromia in Dogs?

1
merle puppy
We would not recommend buying a merle-colored puppy from a pet store, with sight-unseen parentage. If both parents are merle, the puppy has a 25% chance of receiving two merle genes, which can confer blindness and/or deafness, as well as other health problems. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Have you ever seen a dog whose eyes were each a different color? This condition is called heterochromia, and it’s due to variations in the amount of melanin pigment in the iris, which is the colored part of the eye. Heterochromia can be congenital (inherited) or acquired.

Inherited heterochromia is caused by specific genes that are passed to the puppy from one or both parents. All puppies have blue or bluish-gray eyes when they are born. The eye color changes as they mature, with the final color of the eyes appearing at about 16 weeks. Puppies with inherited heterochromia will display their differently colored eyes by that age. Puppies with different colored eyes usually have normal eyesight and no problems.

Acquired heterochromia, on the other hand, is worrisome. If an adult dog’s eye starts changing color, he needs to be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Acquired heterochromia can be caused by trauma to the eye or by inflammation in the eye. Cancer, some autoimmune conditions, and bleeding disorders can cause ocular inflammation that, in turn, causes the eye or eyes to change color.

Types of Heterochromia

Inherited heterochromia manifests in three basic forms. Complete heterochromia, which is called “heterochromia iridis,” is when the two irises are different colors. Dogs with complete heterochromia are sometimes called “bi-eyed.”

The second form, “sectoral heterochromia” (called “parti-eyed”), refers to two or more colors in the same iris. This variation in color may include flecks, marbling, and /or geometric splits, which is when discrete segments of the iris are different colors.

When the center of the iris is a different shade than its remainder, it’s called “central heterochromia.” Often, the center color doesn’t form a perfect circle, but exhibits streaks or spikes of color that flare irregularly into the outer color.

The Inheritance of Heterochromia

This dog is bi-eyed; she has complete heterochromia, with each iris a different solid color. Photo by Sarah Richardson

Hereditary heterochromia is caused by specific genes that are often the same genes that determine coat color. Scientists have identified 15 genes that play roles in canine coat color phenotypes. Two genes known to produce heterochromia are named for the coat patterns they produce: merle and piebald.

The merle coat color consists of variegated patches of dark color over a lighter shade of that color. Merle comes in two colors: liver (red merle) and black (blue merle).  The coat occurs due to an incomplete (or partially expressed) dominant gene, which means that only one parent needs the merle gene to pass it along to the next generation. With the merle gene, inherited heterochromia is predictive: Dogs who have the merle gene are more likely to have heterochromia than dogs without this gene.

Though it produces stunning coat colors, the merle gene is also associated with a host of ear and eye disorders. Ethical breeders avoid mating two dogs with merle characteristics, as the result of such a pairing is a 25% chance of producing “double-merle” dogs, which are prone to disorders that can include blindness and deafness. Unscrupulous breeders, or those who are ignorant or careless about the dangers of the double-merle genes, may produce blind and/of deaf dogs and pass them off to puppy buyers who are unaware of the additional challenges of managing and training a blind and/or deaf dog. Other unethical breeders may “dump” such puppies in shelters or with rescues.

This dog is parti-eyed; she has sectorial heterochromia. Her left iris has one section that lacks melanin (which shows as blue). Photo by Nancy Kerns

The piebald gene, aka white spotting gene, causes a more random deletion of melanin that results in a dog with a completely white coat, or white patches and/or white spots on the dog’s coat. This gene can also result in heterochromia and deafness. The suppression of melanocytes by the piebald pigment gene can lead to degeneration of the auditory nerves that enable hearing in very young puppies. This inheritance is more complex than the merle gene, and much more research needs to be done to understand it.

Owing to a preponderance of the genes that cause heterochromia, certain dog breeds are far more prone to having eyes of differing colors than others. In addition to Australian Shepherds and Siberian Huskies, heterochromia occurs in Great Danes, Dachshunds, Dalmatians, Chihuahuas, Shih tzus, Border Collies, and quite a few lesser-known breeds. Some sources suggest that perhaps 10% of Siberian Huskies are either bi-eyed or parti-eyed.

What Matters Most

Breeding for good health is of paramount importance to ethical dog breeders; they want puppy customers to enjoy many wonderful years with a four-legged family member who can enjoy the world with all his or her senses, including eyesight and hearing. So, if you’re purposely looking for a dog with two different colored eyes – and many people do! – just be sure you find an ethical breeder. But make eye color (and coat color!) secondary to the pup’s personality and suitability for your home and what you eventually want to do with the dog. If you’re purchasing a purebred dog, go to the best breeders. Get to know the puppies for making a choice. And, if you get the perfect-for-you bi-eyed beauty, revel in your pup’s peepers!

Dog Breeds with Common Occurrences of Heterochromia
  • Alaskan Malamute
  • American Foxhound
  • Australian Cattle Dog
  • Australian Shepherd
  • Beagle
  • Border Collie
  • Catahoula Leopard Dog
  • Chihuahua
  • Dachshund
  • Dalmatian
  • Great Dane
  • Pembroke Welsh Corgi
  • Shetland Sheepdog
  • Shih tzu
  • Siberian Husky

Download The Full January 2023 Issue PDF

  • Gear of the Year
  • Meet Your Dog’s Needs
  • Ear Cropping
  • An Anxious Groom
  • Off-Leash Training
  • Diffusing Essential Oils
  • The 3-3-3 Myth
  • Skin Lesions and Cancer
  • Chatter of Fact
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Knee Injuries in Dogs

0
Black and white border collie catches a frisbee drive
If you’re going to let your dog play athletic games like flying disc sports, he needs to be physically fit, which means joints, tendons/ligaments, and muscles with an appropriate bodyweight. ©Ksenia Raykova / Getty Images

Most dog knee injuries are either a patellar luxation or a cruciate ligament injury.  A patellar luxation, or dislocation, is usually due to congenital defects, which means the poor conformation was present at birth. While cruciate ligament injuries can have a conformation component as well, trauma is usually the cause. Both injuries cause pain and require veterinary attention.

Dog Knee Dislocation

The patella is your dog’s kneecap. The patella normally slides up and down in the middle of the knee in a natural groove, called the femoral trochlear groove, located at the end of the femur. Unfortunately, inherited defects in the dog’s knee can allow the kneecap to slide to one side or the other. If it slips to the outside, it is a lateral luxation. If it slips to the inside, it is a medial luxation.

Medial luxations are most common and tend to occur in small breeds such as Boston Terriers, Chihuahuas, Miniature Poodles, and Pomeranians. Larger dogs, such as Chinese Shar Pei, Flat-Coated Retrievers, Akitas, and Great Pyrenees, often have lateral luxations.

About 7% of puppies have patellar problems, and most show evidence of luxation in both rear legs.

Patellar luxations are graded as to their severity:

  • Grade I: The patella can be luxated by hand but doesn’t flip out on its own. If left alone, it will reposition to normal.
  • Grade II: The patella may slip out of its place on its own but if the dog straightens his leg, or you push on it, it will return to its place.
  • Grade III: The patella tends to normally be in an abnormal location but you can push it into place with your hand
  • Grade IV: The patella is always luxated and can’t be put back in place by hand.

Patellar Knee Injury Symptoms

If your dog’s kneecap moves out of place, you may notice your dog “skipping” at times when he moves, holding a leg up, or stopping and stretching a rear leg out, then continuing on. Severe luxations in puppies may alter their stance, resulting in a bowlegged appearance (medial luxation) or knock-kneed appearance (lateral luxation).

Kneecap problems are usually diagnosed with a physical exam. Your veterinarian will also check for cranial cruciate problems since the two problems can be associated. X-rays are often recommended to look for other orthopedic conditions that may influence treatment, such as hip dysplasia.

Treatments for Knee Injuries

Treatment varies with the severity of the luxation. Grade 1 and many grade 2 cases are often left alone and watched for developing problems, especially in smaller dogs. Grade 3 and grade 4 cases usually need surgery to keep the dog comfortable and reduce the chances of more orthopedic problems down the line.

In dog knee surgery for a dislocation, generally, the soft tissues are tightened on the opposite side of the luxation to help hold the patella in place. The femoral groove may be deepened to help keep the kneecap on its ideal track. The tibial crest may be moved to realign major muscles and provide a more normal anatomy for the leg. Many dogs with a kneecap problem will develop osteoarthritis later in life.

Cruciate Ligament Injuries

Most cruciate ligament problems are related to trauma. It could be an acute injury that occurs when the dog turned too tight at speed, for example, or a low-grade, chronic problem that has degenerated over time. Tears may be partial or complete.

Your dog has two cruciate ligaments: the caudal (responsible for forward stability of the joint) and the cranial (rear stability). These ligaments crisscross (hence “cruciate”) the knee joint between the bottom of the femur and the top of the tibia. They provide stability for the knee joint but allow extension and flexion. Side-to-side movement is limited.

Dogs tend to tear their ligaments while active – running, turning sharply, stepping in a hole while running, and so on. However, a ligament can be torn in an event as simple as an overweight Beagle leaping off the couch and landing badly. Risk factors for cruciate problems include environmental factors such as lifestyle activities and weight.

Torn Ligament Symptoms

Sudden, extreme pressure causes the ligament fibers to stretch and rupture. Many dogs will cry out, and most will suddenly go three-legged lame and hold up the affected leg. The joint may become inflamed, swollen, and painful. Signs of a chronic partial tear may be more subtle – resembling arthritis. You may notice your dog is unusually stiff after a period of inactivity and/or shows intermittent lameness.

Breeds at highest risk of a torn cruciate are muscular, active, medium to large dogs, including Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Rottweilers, and Pit Bulls.

This injury is so common in Labs that a genetic test looking for susceptibility to cruciate problems is available through the Comparative Genetics and Orthopaedic Research Laboratory at the University of Wisconsin–Madison School of Veterinary Medicine. A dog who is positive on this genetic test is not guaranteed to rupture a cruciate but is considered at higher risk: about 62% genetic coupled with 38% environment. Owners should be extra vigilant about preventing weight gain and should do regular physical therapy to keep their dogs fit.

Diagnosing a Cruciate Knee Injury

Your veterinarian will likely diagnose your dog’s knee injury on physical examination. A lax (loose) joint is a solid indicator of a complete tear. Further diagnostics might include radiographs to look at arthritic changes and/or arthroscopy, which is a surgical procedure that allows the veterinarian to into the joint and check the menisci, which are two cartilage discs that provide cushioning in the knee joint.

Knee-Injury Treatment

Small dogs may do well with a custom fitted brace or may need a surgery called extracapsular repair in which a suture helps to stabilize the joint until scar tissue takes over that function.

For larger and very active dogs, surgeries involving cutting bones in the joint and repositioning them tend to have the best outcomes. These procedures include tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO) and tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA).

If you choose conservative therapy with a brace, have a custom brace made, which will minimize sores and give your dog the best chance of healing. For older dogs who are not good candidates for surgery, a brace may be the best option regardless of size.

Rehabilitation for Knee Injuries

No matter what treatment you and your veterinarian decide is best for your dog, aftercare is important. Careful postoperative protocols need to be followed exactly as directed by your veterinarian.

Rehabilitation will include passive range of motion exercises (PROM), a schedule of walks that build in distance and hills gradually, and additional exercises such as underwater treadmill. Laser and pulsed electro-magnetic field (PEMF) therapy may be suggested. Joint nutraceuticals may be recommended to support his joints and slow the inevitable development of arthritis. Sadly, 40% to 60% of the dogs who tear one cruciate will eventually tear the other.

Preventing Knee Injuries in Dogs

Your dog’s overall health can impact the likelihood of an injury and successful recovery. Keep your dog at his ideal weight. Look into an exercise program to strengthen his core muscles, including balance exercises, such as work on a wobble board or peanut. Be realistic about your dog’s conformation. As much as you may want to do agility or flyball, you might consider doing scentwork or Rally with your dog to further minimize the risk of injury.

The Right Way to Wash Your Dog’s Bed

0
A boxer dog in its bed
Dog beds like this one, with stuffing that’s sewed into their bolstered sides (as opposed to the kind with bolsters that can be removed so the empty cover can be washed) sometimes require a commercial washing machine, like the extra-large front-loading washers found in laundromats. Photo by Kate Stoupas, Getty Images

Start laundering your dog’s bed by vacuuming the bed with a brush or upholstery attachment to remove dust, dirt, dander, and dog hair.

Check the bed’s cover for a tag that shows washing instructions or check with the manufacturer. Most removable covers can be hand-washed or placed in the washing machine, and some beds whose covers are not removable can be cleaned in the washer as well. If you find washing instructions, follow them.

Stain and odor removal

Treat stains before washing. Enzyme products such as Unique Pet Care’s Advanced Dog Odor + Stain Remover and Rocco and Roxie’s Extreme Stain & Odor Eliminator bind with and remove traces of urine, vomit, feces, blood, dog drool, musty smells, and doggy odors. Alternatively, these stains can be treated with 1 cup baking soda mixed with 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup water applied as a spray. Let stand 10 minutes and blot dry.

Plant-based laundry detergents are considered dog-friendly because they don’t contain dyes, fragrances, or harsh chemicals. Greenshield Organic Free and Clear Laundry Detergent, Dropps Stain and Odor Detergent, and similar products can clean your dog’s bed, as well as his blankets, vests, sweaters, and fabric leashes and collars.

Washing the bed

If the bed or cover can be machine-washed in hot water with a pet-safe detergent, doing so will help disinfect it. If a cold-water wash is recommended, check your results and run the bed or cover through the washer a second time if necessary.

To hand-wash a dog bed, fill a large sink, tub, or wading pool with warm water and add 1/2 cup baking soda. Soak the bed for 30 minutes, then drain and refill with hot, warm, or cold water, add pet-friendly detergent, and actively press the bed into soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well, then squeeze (don’t wring) the bed to remove water without causing its stuffing to shift or clump. Drain excess water with your washer’s spin cycle or gently roll the bed in large towels and stand on them to release water. Spread the bed outdoors in the shade or indoors with a blowing fan until dry.

How often should you wash the bed?

Some health experts recommend vacuuming a dog bed once a week and washing it once a month, but your best guide will be its condition. When it’s dirty, muddy, or the site of spills or accidents, assemble your cleaning supplies.

Once the bed is dry, keep it spotless and fresh smelling. Frequently sprinkle it with baking soda, let it stand half an hour, then vacuum, or spay and wipe the bed with equal parts vinegar and warm water. Treat new stains as soon as they occur by spot cleaning with a dog-safe stain remover. If the bed’s cover is removable, protect its mattress with an inner liner.

Bulging Eyes in Dogs

0
This dog suffered a retrobulbar abscess, a pocket of infection behind her eye, which caused her eye to bulge. These infections can be caused by a dental problem (such as a cracked tooth), a puncture in the mouth (perhaps caused by a splinter from chewing a bone or stick), or the migration of a grass awn (foxtail). It resolved with antibiotics. ©Nancy Kerns

There are a number of reasons for a dog’s eye or eyes to begin bulging unnaturally. If you notice your dog has one or both eyes bulging, or has an oddly colored eye or a strange discharge from the eye—get your dog to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Time is of the essence for saving your dog’s vision. The bulging may be due to a swollen eyeball, which happens with glaucoma; swelling around the eyeball, which happens with infection and allergic reactions; or swelling behind the eyeball, which happens with infections, bleeding, or tumors. Glaucoma is painful, so your dog may act depressed and not want to eat. The eye will be red and look enlarged, the cornea may turn a bluish cloudy color, and there may be vision loss. Glaucoma is a veterinary emergency.

Flat-faced dogs with bulging eyes

Bulging eyes are most common in brachycephalic breeds of dogs—they’re the ones with the cute, smooshed-in faces like the Pug and Boston Terrier. These dogs naturally have shallow orbits, which are the bony sockets in the skull that house the eyeballs. Unfortunately, these dogs are at a higher risk of corneal injury. They are also prone to a terrible situation called proptosis in which the dog’s eyes pop out.

With proptosis, the eyeball pops out of the socket and the eyelids collapse behind it, essentially holding the eye out. This is a disaster that can happen in any dog due to trauma (usually a dog fight or vehicular incident), but it occurs most commonly in brachycephalic breeds due to their shallow sockets. Veterinary personnel are trained to avoid overzealously restraining a brachycephalic dog, as a person could literally pop the dog’s eyeballs out. Although proptosed eyeballs can sometimes be replaced, there is typically permanent damage to the optic nerve, which causes blindness. In most cases, the eyeball is surgically removed.

Bulging eyes in other dogs

Dogs of any breed can experience retrobulbar disease, which can take up enough space behind the eye to push the eyeball forward. This can be painful for the dog when he opens his mouth wide, such as when yawning. If you gently push on the eyeballs with the lids closed, you may notice you can push the normal eye in a bit, but the affected eye doesn’t budge. The most common causes of retrobulbar disease include tumors, abscesses, cysts, and hematomas. Treatment for periorbital disease depends on diagnosis, which usually requires advanced imaging like a CT scan.

An unusual cause of bulging eyes in dogs is extraocular myositis, which is an immune attack on the muscles that hold the eyeball in place. It occurs most frequently in young Golden Retrievers. The dog may appear to have a wide-eyed, surprised look all the time. Immediate veterinary care is needed to avoid permanent damage.

Alopecia In Dogs

0
Alopecia in Dogs
In true alopecia, the skin is not growing any hair at all, as seen on this dog. Credit: JodiJacobson / Getty Images

Alopecia is the medical term for baldness. In dogs, alopecia refers to areas on the dog’s body that are not growing hair.

Most episodes of seasonal alopecia in dogs are not alopecia at all but routine turnovers of the coat or seasonal shedding. Your dog isn’t down to bare skin, he just looks naked compared to his usual haircoat. This is normal. When you see the hair turning dull and getting tufts or “pluckables,” this is a good time for a warm bath and a blow dry. Removing as much of the dead hair as possible encourages new growth.

You also may have heard of a dog “blowing her coat,” which is seen in many longhair dogs at puberty and in female dogs after a heat or having puppies. In these cases, most of the long guard hairs remain, but the softer, woolier undercoat that is gone. This is not alopecia.

True alopecia means the loss of all hair, and it is almost always secondary to another health problem. Many skin conditions can cause hair loss, including flea allergy, bacterial infections, or fungal infections. In almost all these cases, the skin is red, inflamed, moist, or has pustules and flaking. For these cases of alopecias, you need to diagnose and treat the primary problem, which may require your veterinarian’s help. A medicated shampoo or topical treatment will likely be prescribed. After treatment, the hair will grow back.

Chemotherapy can cause hair loss in some dogs but rarely causes the dramatic loss that many people experience.

Another cause in dogs is hormone or endocrine abnormalities such as Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism). With Cushing’s, your dog will have more clinical signs than just alopecia. He will have skin growths or tags and seborrhea. He will develop a potbelly appearance due to lack of muscle tone. Many dogs will pant and drink and urinate more than usual. Diagnosis will require bloodwork, both a normal chemistry panel plus specific tests for adrenal function. Medical therapy generally involves mitotane or trilostane, which will be required for life. Your dog will need periodic monitoring for side effects and to adjust the dose if needed.

Rarely, alopecia is caused by a poor diet. If this is the case, you will need the help of your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist to determine if your dog’s diet is deficient in important nutrients.

Dog Cold Weather Gear: Dressing Your Dog for Winter

2
Two sartorial terriers, Zoe and Zak, on a winter stump in front of Lake Tahoe.
Coats and boots keep your dog warm enough to get sufficient exercise in areas that have snowy or icy winter weather. Without protection like this, few dogs can safely take a really energy-burning, long walk in freezing temperatures. Photo by Patrice Beaumont, Getty Images.

Does your dog need a winter coat? If he spends most of the day indoors, has a thin, short coat, and shivers when it’s chilly, a cold-weather jacket can help him adjust to winter temperatures for cold-weather walks – or even just going outdoors to potty. Make that a raincoat if you live where it’s cold and wet. Most dog raincoats have two layers, a top one for repelling water and an insulating layer for warmth.

All kinds of keep-warm sweaters, vests, coats, jackets, and even whole-body suits for dogs are sold in pet supply stores, department stores, and online. Consider how active your dog will be outdoors and what garment shape, design, and fabric weight will work best. Washable blends of wool or polyester fleece (what “polar fleece” is made of) are popular because they’re comfortable for most dogs and easy to care for.

Before they became canine fashion accessories, jackets were designed for working dogs who spent hours outdoors – and may even swim! – in rain, snow, ice, and cold winds. Most jackets or vests for sporting and hunting dogs who need insulation when wet are made of neoprene – the same material used to make diving wetsuits for humans. If your dog joins you for hours of wet outdoor walks, search for a vest or jacket made with neoprene.

Measure For a Good Fit

Use a tape measure (the fabric kind used for sewing) to measure for a sweater, vest, coat, or jacket that will cover the dog’s chest and back. With the dog standing still with head up, measure:

  • Neck circumference, as for a collar.
  • From the collar down the spine to the base of the tail.
  • Around the chest directly behind the front legs.

Compare measurements to the manufacturer’s size chart. Some sellers list sizes based on your dog’s breed.

Dog Boots and Socks

Ice and snow, and rock salt and other ice-melting chemicals are hard on a dog’s feet, so consider keeping them warm and dry with the right footwear. The best dog boots are flexible, water-resistant, grip the ground with textured soles, and have adjustable Velcro straps. Popular brands include Kurgo, SaltSox, and Muttluks. Check size guidelines and measure before ordering. Most dogs dislike booties at first, so introduce them indoors for short periods or start by having your dog get used to indoor dog socks, which are designed with a non-skid surface to help older or injured dogs improve mobility.

Dog Snoods for Extra Winter Coverage

A snood looks like an extended hat that covers the head, ears, and neck, protecting them from wind, rain, and cold weather. One source is The Snood Factory, which makes snoods especially for breeds with long hair and long ears (but which are helpful winter wear for any dog at risk of frostbite!) or search online for dog snoods.

Dog Heating Pads

Heated dog beds, warming pads, and self-heating (non-electric) pads can help an arthritic, elderly, or simply cold dog or puppy feel comfortable, indoors or out. The best electric pads have chew-proof cords, timers that shut off automatically (or mechanisms that heat only when weighted by a dog), washable covers, and a heat limit that protects dogs against overheating. They come in different sizes and are clearly labeled for indoor or outdoor use. See K&H Pet Products or search Amazon, Chewy, and other suppliers for Riogoo, Frisco, Aspen, and similar brands.

Buy This Book!

2
doggie language book
Doggie Language by Lili Chin is a great resource for any dog lover! ©Nancy Kerns

I recently asked one of our regular contributors to write an article explaining why dogs might display a teeth-chattering behavior. The article came back, and then it was my turn to look for a photograph of a dog with chattering teeth to accompany the article.

I spent HOURS looking through stock photos of dogs online, and as well as through the thousands of my own stock photos of dogs, which I’ve been taking for the more than 25 years that I’ve been editing WDJ. I have spent many hours taking photos of dogs in dog parks, and I thought the chances were good that I would find a frame of a dog with chattering teeth in those photos; I know I have observed the behavior at dog parks before. But – no luck. I couldn’t find a single frame of a dog whose mouth even slightly resembled the posture of teeth-chattering.

Then I remembered a very valuable resource about dog body language: Doggie Language: A Dog Lover’s Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend, by Lili Chin, dog illustrator extraordinaire. I just knew the behavior would be in the book, which I promoted in our 2021 “Gear of the Year” feature.

It turned out, that while Chin has captured and succinctly explained most of the critically important canine postures that all dog owners should know, from friendly nose touches to stiff, narrowly wagging tails, “chattering teeth” was not illustrated! But I’m aware that Chin has collaborated with and drawn educational dog-behavior illustrations for many professional force-free dog trainers, and offers these in poster form on her website, doggiedrawings.net. I looked through these for a while; there are some great infographics there! But nothing on teeth-chattering.

I was despondent, for a minute. But then I thought: “I’ll write to Lili! I’ll ask her if she has ever illustrated this anywhere ever before, and if I can use that illustration!”

And I did.

And she hadn’t.

But then, 15 minutes later, she sent me a note that said, “How is my five-minute effort?” with this:

dog teeth chattering illustration
Illustration by Lili Chin.

It’s perfect!  It captures a dog’s anxious expression, with softly flattened ears, a tentative posture, barely wagging tail, and a slightly puckered mouth – just how dogs often look when they chatter their teeth, whether that’s due to anxiety, or because they just smelled something interesting (like another dog’s urine), or because they are genuinely cold!

Doggie Language Is a Terrific Resource

Chin’s talent for capturing complex canine behavior in a simple illustration inspired me to recommend her book again now, at the perfect gift-giving time of year: it’s not expensive and it is easily procured (available anywhere books are sold, and if you want a signed copy, available from doggielanguagebook.com). It’s a great gift for anyone who loves dogs or has a new dog. It’s also available in 16 languages!

Ignore the fact that Doggie Language doesn’t cover “teeth chattering” – it’s a pretty subtle and not-very-common behavior. What the book does depict, with clear and simple illustrations and very brief explanations, are the most important words and phrases that dogs are telling us with their body language. Any trainer can tell you that few owners perceive the many signs of stress in their dogs – early warnings that they need space (and might bite to get it). How does a dog look when they are truly interested in exchanging affection with a person? How can you tell which dog is excited and friendly dog and which one is frantic and frustrated? Even a young child can recognize the differences using Chin’s illustrations and descriptions.

And, before I forget, if your dog sometimes chatters his teeth, and you want to learn more about that behavior, read “Chatter of Fact” here.

Do I Need a Dog Feeding Schedule?

8
Dog waiting for feeding
For most adult dogs, a twice-a-day feeding schedule—12 hours apart—works best. Credit: Chalabala / Getty Images

Dogs like regular schedules, and that includes your dog’s feeding schedule. Most veterinarians recommend that dogs eat twice a day, approximately 12 hours apart. If it’s longer, you could cause nausea, as he gets hungry just like people do.

Feed your healthy adult dog twice a day. There is no best time to feed a dog. The time of day doesn’t matter as much as the time between meals. You can feed him at 5 p.m. or 9:30 p.m., provided you feed him at a roughly corresponding time the next morning. Don’t feed him at 6 p.m. on Friday night and then not until you wake up at 11:30 Saturday morning. If you need to change your dog’s feeding schedule, gradual changes over the course of 4 to 7 days are best.

You may need to adjust your dog feeding schedule by age or illness. Some canines, like puppies, seniors, nursing moms, and working/sporting dogs, need a lot of calories to maintain their weight and may need to be fed more often to accomplish that because you don’t want to overfeed him at a feeding. Some puppies need to eat four to six times a day.

If you do need to feed your dog more often, remember to feed smaller portions each time so you don’t overfeed him. If your dog needs four cups of food a day, and you feed him twice a day, that’s two cups in each feeding. If he cannot consume that much food at once, then you take the four cups and divide it evenly between the feedings.

Don’t feed your dog once a day, assuming he will eat when he’s hungry, sort of “free-choice.” He won’t. It’s most likely he’ll wolf it all down at once and be hungry 12 hours later. Free-choice feeding can make dog fat, and it can cause fights if you have more than one dog.

Feeding twice a day is an easy way to check on a dog’s health or to prepare him to adapt to changes, such as traveling or changing dog food. Two meals a day provides him with the stability he craves in his life, a tasty cornerstone that he can rely on. Feeding can also be a bonding moment between you and your dog.

Can Dogs Eat Corn?

1
Dog running over harvested corn field in front of clouds.
Corn in dog food is ground, so your dog benefits from its nutrients. Corn on the cob is whole, so it is not well digested. In addition, corn cobs are not at all digestible and can make your dog sick. Credit: K_Thalhofer / Getty Images

Your dog can eat corn. Corn is a common a common ingredient in human foods, as well as pet foods. Corn in dog foods can be controversial, and some people claim that “corn is bad.” However, corn is not a filler in dog food; corn provides nutrition including carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins, antioxidants, and protein. So, why do people wonder if their dogs can eat corn? The main concerns with feeding corn to dogs are:

  • Dietary sensitivity to corn. While it is possible for a dog to have a sensitivity to corn that might cause gut or skin problems, most food sensitivities involve a protein. Corn is a carbohydrate. The most common dietary sensitivities in dogs are beef and chicken.
  • Concerns about a genetically modified organism (GMO) safety. Much of the corn grown today have tweaked DNA to give it better resistance against disease or environmental extremes. This results in a higher yield per acre. People fear GMOs because they are perceived as not natural, since the genetic modification occurs in a laboratory. While safety studies comparing GMO foods to “natural” foods are ongoing, none have clearly demonstrated a harmful trend.
  • Corn is thought to be not digestible. Corn kernels can be spotted in dog poop, leading to the thought that corn is not digestible. If a dog eats whole corn kernels, the outer casing of the kernel keeps the corn from effectively being digested, so they can be seen largely undigested coming out the other end. The corn in dog foods is ground to make it easier for the dog to absorb its nutrients.

A note of caution: Dogs cannot eat corn cobs. Corn cobs are not digestible. When a dog eats a corn cob, he risks choking or intestinal blockage (symptoms include vomiting, decreased appetite, diarrhea). Don’t give your dog corn cobs to chew, and don’t let them get into the garbage that contain corn cobs. If you hike ear crop land, don’t let your dogs eat or chew any leftovers that didn’t get harvested. If you are concerned that your dog has eaten corn cobs, contact your dog’s veterinarian.

What about popcorn? If you want to share popcorn with your dog, you can, but in moderation. Air-popped is best, as too much salt, butter, or other flavoring agents can give your dog a tummy ache.

Latest Blog

A Thing for Gear

It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.