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Senior Dog Is Losing Teeth

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The human hands wearing blue sterile gloves, holding dachshund head, show to the camera dog teeth without one front tooth. Veterinarian in white coat checking animal dental health.
The loss of a tooth can be obvious if it’s a front tooth, but it can be more difficult to see if it’s farther back. Photo: Irena Meshcheryakova | Getty Images

Tooth loss in common in older dogs, and the primary cause is periodontal disease. That’s an infection of the tissues around a tooth, sometime also involving the gums. And, if the gums are bad, the teeth will lose their grip, too.

Obviously, you can’t do anything about the teeth your dog has already lost—well, you can, but it’s unlikely you want to pay for implants for your dog—but you can help prevent, or at least delay, further tooth loss with preventive care.

Daily brushing with a doggy toothpaste—never human toothpaste—is a great start. Many good dental products are available to help keep your dog’s teeth and mouth in good shape, including additives to food and water, appropriate chew items, and even special foods. The Veterinary Oral Health Council has a list of recommended products.

Infection

If your dog’s mouth is infected, it’s important to get that under control by seeing a veterinarian. Antibiotics with a probiotic chaser are usually prescribed. Your veterinarian may also recommend a professional cleaning.

If your senior dog is losing teeth, don’t panic. Dogs can handle the loss of many, if not all, teeth and still have good quality of life. Your dog will be healthier and happier if the diseased teeth are removed.

Help Eating

Often the first teeth to go are the small incisors in front. Most dogs never skip a beat and often owners never notice the loss. The loss of the large canine teeth can hinder a dog a bit in that it can be more difficult to pick up or carry items, but most dogs are resourceful and still manage, if it is something they want to carry. The loss of premolars and molars mean less chewing ability, but many dogs more or less gulp and swallow their food be it raw or kibble anyway.

If your senior has trouble chewing, add warm water to his meals, which is a good idea anyway as most senior dogs can use some help with hydration. Consider switching to softer, easy to swallow treats for training and rewards.

Best Age to Neuter a Male Dog

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Woman training Irish Wolfhound on a meadow
Allowing dogs to reach skeletal maturity before neutering results in healthier joints and structure, and this is especially true for the giant breeds, like the Irish Wolfhound. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

The best age to neuter a male dog has changed over the years. We used to think 6 months of age was just right. Turns out this may not have been the best idea, especially for large breed dogs. Historically, 6 months seemed reasonable as pups are done with their puppy shots by then, and they are at a nice, manageable size for surgery. It all seemed to make sense, but now we know a lot more.

Most veterinarians now recommend waiting to neuter male dogs after they reach full skeletal maturity, especially large breed males. Allowing these dogs to grow under the influence of their sex hormones means they grow more naturally, resulting in healthier joint angles and structure. They also grow stronger and less injury-prone tendons and ligaments. We have scientific proof that neutering a dog too early potentially makes him more prone to orthopedic problems like hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments in the knee.

Waiting for skeletal maturity sets up new age recommendations for neutering:

  • Small breed dogs: after 12 months of age
  • Medium to large breed dogs: after 18 months of age
  • Giant breed dogs: after 24 months of age

Some veterinary specialists contend that we shouldn’t neuter male dogs at all. Those of us who still support neutering male dogs are quick to point out the benefits of neutering, including pet population control and the prevention of testicular cancer, prostatic disease, tumors growing on or around the anus (perianal adenomas), and perineal hernias (breakdown of tissue surrounding the rectum). All these diseases are preventable by neutering your dog before he reaches middle age. That said, aggressive, intact male dogs should always be neutered, as testosterone has been linked to aggression. Removing the source of testosterone helps manage this dangerous behavior issue.

Training a Deaf Dog

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deaf dog
Many dogs lose their hearing, partially or completely, when they get old. Training your dog to understand hand signals, particularly a marker that means “Yes!” such as a “thumbs up” signal, can immeasurably help a senior dog who has hearing loss understand that he’s still a very good dog. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Dogs are masters at noticing body language, which makes them great at learning hand signals. When it comes to training a deaf dog, hand signals are the name of the game.

Here are five things to keep in mind when working with a deaf dog:

  1. Attention is key. Teach your deaf dog to orient toward you using a variety of non-verbal cues. A tactile cue, such as gently tapping your dog on her side, a gestural cue like waving your hand in a distinct pattern or stomping your feet to create a vibration can all work well when your dog is within arm’s reach or otherwise close enough to perceive the cue.
Boys with hearing impairments signing pet in American sign language on their couch
If someone in your family uses American Sign Language, they will likely excel at training a deaf dog, as they are accustomed to giving and looking to receive eye contact before signaling their communication. Photo by Huntstock / Getty Images

To teach each of these cues, pair them with treats or the presentation of a favorite toy. Admittedly, using food is often the easiest but toys can work, especially with highly toy-motivated dogs. (If your dog is indifferent about food and toys, we recommend working with a skilled positive reinforcement trainer who can help you think outside the box when developing your training plan.)

Gently tap your dog, wave your hand when he can see you, or stomp your foot and immediately feed a treat or present the toy. Start when your dog is already paying attention and repeat often without distractions to keep the sequence super easy; then try it when your dog is mildly distracted and not looking at you. Your dog will learn that feeling the tap, seeing the wave, or feeling the distinct floor vibration of your attention-getting stomp means you’re about provide something he wants, which is a good reason to pay attention. A bonus of teaching a tactile cue is that it also helps desensitize your dog to unexpected touch, which reduces the natural startle reflex in other circumstances.

  1. Reward well for offered check-ins and teach an “all done” cue. With attention and eye contact being so important, be sure to notice and reward moments when your dog offers attention to help him understand keeping his eye on you is a good thing. When out walking your dog, remember to be present and don’t get lost in looking at your phone! At the same time, when you want your dog to settle and understand there won’t be any interaction for a while, teach an “all done” signal. We like the American Sign Language sign for “finished,” but any gesture can work if it’s consistently followed by the absence of interaction.
  2. Choose your hand signals. When teaching behaviors using a lure (often done using a treat in front of the dog’s nose), it’s easy to fade the treat and use the same physical gesture as a cue for the behavior. For example, if you first teach a dog to lie down by having her follow a treat in your hand from her nose to the ground, pointing from nose-level to the ground can become your “down” signal.

Teach a visual marker, such as a quick thumbs-up gesture or a flash from a small flashlight, to let your dog know when he’s been successful or is on the right track and a reward is on its way. (With hearing dogs, we often use a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!” or “Good!”) or the click of a clicker to indicate the dog has done what we want, just before we deliver the treat.)

  1. Consider using a vibration collar. A vibration-only collar can be a useful tool with some deaf dogs, especially when your dog is far away, has his back turned, or is otherwise distracted. A good use of the vibration collar is as a recall cue, where feeling the vibration means race to your person for something great!
flash marker
Some people use a flash from a tiny flashlight as a marker signal.

Begin by pairing the sight of the collar with something great – like a tasty treat. Then let the collar vibrate in your hand and feed treats as your dog investigates. Progress to holding the collar against your dog’s body as it vibrates, beginning at his shoulders and moving up to his neck. Each time the collar vibrates, feed a treat. Work this process slowly over a few days to really help your dog understand that vibration equals tasty treat. This will help build a positive conditioned emotional response (CER) in your dog’s mind: Vibration equals chicken. Chicken equals yum. Therefore, vibration also equals yum. Quick! Race to my person to get the yum!

You’ll know the positive CER is setting in when, once you put the collar on your dog and activate vibration, he immediately orients toward you with a hopeful expression in anticipation of a treat. Add distance and distractions slowly over time and your vibration turns into a recall cue. Be sure to pay generously each time to make sure it’s “worth it” for you dog to leave a distraction to come to you.

Keep in mind, some dogs, no matter how slowly you progress, will be worried about the vibration, in which case a vibrating collar is not the best tool. And no matter how great your deaf dog’s recall turns out to be, it’s best to stick to fenced-in spaces or use a long line when you want him to enjoy a bit more freedom. No dog’s recall is perfect and with one fewer sense to engage, it can be harder to round up a loose dog or track down a lost dog.

  1. Talk to your deaf dog! Your deaf dog may not be able to hear you, but the more natural you are in your behavior, the more natural your body language becomes, including your facial expressions. Breathe. Relax. Smile. She may not hear your words, but she’ll learn a lot through your facial expressions, unique body language, and behavior patterns as you build and strengthen your bond.

What would make you sign up for a dog-training class?

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group dog training class
Taking a class to learn how to train your dog is a valuable investment into learning how to communicate better with each other.

I’ve paid to take group dog-training classes a number of times – even though I know how to and am even pretty good at training my own and other people’s dogs.

I have had slightly different reasons for wanting to take classes with each of my three dogs.

When I adopted Otto in June 2008, he was about 7 months old, but I signed up for some basic training classes to update my own timing and coordination skills so I could best communicate with my adolescent dog who had an uncertain origin. He had some quirks and fears and I wanted to make sure that I was doing everything right to gain his trust and want to work with me.

In later years, I signed us up for some agility classes; I thought I might try to take Otto to an agility competition someday, though we never did do that. Otto enjoyed the running around and negotiating the various obstacles, and he was so happy doing it, that it was sheer fun for me, too.

When I adopted Woody in January 2016, he was just a little pup, 9 or 10 weeks old. But I knew he was going to be a big, strong dog with a bully-breed look, and I wanted to make sure that I super-socialized him and trained him to be very compliant in any setting. I didn’t want people to judge him or be afraid of him based on his looks; I also wanted him to learn to behave well and pay attention to me when there were other dogs present. We took six-week Puppy 1 and then Puppy 2 courses, and later, also took some introductory agility courses.

Partly due to the limited class offerings because of Covid, and partly because I was hemming and hawing for months and months over whether to keep my youngest dog, Boone, whom I had started fostering when he was just about 6 or 8 weeks old, I never signed him up for puppy classes. When I finally got around to signing us up for an adolescent class, I was horrified to see how high-strung he was in class. He could focus on me very well, but it required some effort on his part. Instead of taking treats nicely like he can at home or when we are out walking, he lunged and grabbed for them in a frantic way that revealed his tension in the group-class setting. He needs a lot more practice and classes to learn to relax in a group setting.

Dog-training classes can be expensive, especially if they take place in a pleasant, spacious, climate-controlled location with safe footing. But classes are one thing I am always happy to pay for; I think of them as an investment in my relationship and good communication with my dogs, their good behavior anywhere I take them, and their own comfort and safety in public. I want them to be confident, secure, and well-mannered wherever we find ourselves, whether it’s a hotel we’ve had to stay in because we’ve been evacuated due to a wildfire or a friend’s home we’re visiting for the weekend. And I don’t want anyone dreading our arrival, worried about their carpets or cats or kids!

Classes are not just for puppies or problematic behavior

However, unless someone has a new puppy, or a dog with a vexing behavior that is causing problems for the human family, most dog owners don’t take dog-training classes! I wish there was some data about how many dog owners pay for any sort of dog training; I’m not aware of any organization that keeps these statistics (if you’re aware of some, please let me know!). My own experience is that very few people do.

And, given my job, I am often asked by friends or family about their dogs’ behavior issues – separation anxiety, reactivity on leash, pulling on leash, excessive barking, and so on. No matter what the question is, I always recommend consulting a local trainer and/or taking a basic training class. And nearly always, the response is, “No, we don’t need a class, it’s just this one problem we’re having.” But in my view, if my friends or family members knew even just a little bit more about training, not only would the problem behavior improve, their entire relationship with the dog would improve, too.

I think of a basic group training class as the equivalent of a high school speech class; it’s where you learn to communicate in a clear and effective way, instead of shouting nonsensically at others, arguing with people ineffectively, and failing to get your needs met. A single multiple-week course would help anyone get to know and understand their dog better and communicate with the dog better, which would likely help the dog understand what the heck is expected of him better, too – which would surely relieve some of the anxiety that’s likely driving some of his problematic behavior!

So many owners seem to have the expectation that their dogs should understand conversational English by the age of 4 or 5 months and somehow just know how to behave calmly in any setting. And most people manage to teach their dogs a few basics: sit (usually), come (sometimes), and walk on a leash (sort of). But if you ask the average dog owner how they would teach a dog to perform a specific skill on cue – and you made that skill something that the average dog owner does not expect their dog to know, say, pushing a ball with their nose into a soccer goal, or “waving” a front paw in the air – few people would know how to systematically shape that behavior using well-timed markers and rewards. In my opinion, once you’ve learned the basic steps to and mechanics of teaching a dog to perform any behavior on cue, you should be able to teach them any other behavior. And that’s what basic training classes are for!

Anyway, I’m curious about our readers: Have you taken any classes with your current dogs? If so, what classes did you take or are you taking? And if not, why haven’t you?

Folliculitis in Dogs

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Closeup the disease on cat skin, Dermatitis in dog, skin laminate and dog hair fallen
When individual hair follicles in the skin become infected, papules (raised bumps) and pustules (pus-filled bumps) may form on the skin. These may burst and become crusty. If left untreated, the infection can become worse and worse as the dog licks his skin in an effort to find relief. Photo by Elen11/Getty Images

Folliculitis is inflammation of the hair follicles. Inflammation is the body’s response to an injury or infection of some sort; when hair follicles become infected with bacteria, the body sends inflammatory cells to attack the bacteria and heal damaged tissue. In the case of foliliculitis in dogs, the original insult may have been caused by ectoparasites, a fungus, an underlying endocrine disorder, or trauma caused by the scratching and chewing that results from the itching of hypersensitivity (allergy). The condition is sometimes called superficial pyoderma; superficial refers to the hair follicles and the epidermis; pyo means pus and derma means skin.

Folliculitis can occur anywhere on a dog’s body, but is found most frequently in warm, moist areas of the dog’s skin, particularly where there is a skin fold, such as the dog’s lips, face, neck, vulva, and the base of the tail. The axillary region (or armpits as we know them on human bodies), groin region, and spaces between the toes are also prime locations for developing folliculitis.

This case is mild, but the presence of even just one epidermal collarette indicates an infected follicle. It’s a good idea to take your dog to the vet to determine the cause of the insult to the skin and treat it before it worsens. Photo by Jennifer Bailey, DVM

Bacterial folliculitis begins as small, flat red circles on your dog’s skin called macules. As the condition progresses, the macules become raised bumps called papules. Papules may fill with pus, creating a small white dot in the middle of the raised red circle. When pus fills a papule on a dog, it is called a pustule; in humans, we’d call this a pimple.

Folliculitis is pruritic (itchy) and you may notice your dog scratching or licking at these lesions. Scratching or licking at papules and pustules causes them to rupture and release clear fluid from papules and pus from pustules. When that clear fluid and pus dries, the papules and pustules become covered with a crust. If your dog continues licking and scratching at these crusty red circles, the circles get bigger and develop scales or flakes along the edge. These are called epidermal collarettes.

Pyoderma

There are three types of pyoderma: surface, superficial, and deep.

  • Surface pyoderma is an infection on the skin surface. “Hot spots” – those small, red, itchy patches that tend to appear on the neck, face, and rump near the tail during the hot, humid months of summer – are examples of surface pyoderma.
  • Superficial pyoderma is an infection of the epidermis (the top layers of skin) and the hair follicles. Folliculitis is an infection of the hair follicles and the superficial skin.
  • Deep pyoderma is an infection that extends into the dermis, or the deep layer of the skin.

General Treatment of Folliculitis in Dogs

Treatment of folliculitis may include a medicated shampoo to reduce the bacterial population on the skin and ease the pruritus and discomfort. Treatment will also likely include an oral antibiotic. A dog will typically need to be on an oral antibiotic until one week after all of his symptoms resolve. This may take as little as two weeks but usually requires four to six weeks of therapy.

Folliculitis in Dogs Causes and Targeted Treatment

A bacterial infection of the skin and hair follicles is almost always secondary to one of many potential problems with the skin. Successful treatment of folliculitis will depend on its original cause. These most common precipitating conditions include:

Demodicosis

This is caused by a mite called Demodex, which live in the hair follicles and sebaceous glands of your dog’s skin. They are a commensal mite; they live on and benefit from your dog without causing your dog harm. Demodex mites can cause a dog to become itchy when their populations suddenly increase. (When the equilibrium between the Demodex mites and the skin microenvironment becomes unbalanced, and the mite population explodes, they are then considered a parasite, rather than a commensal.)

Puppies are more prone to developing pruritus caused by the Demodex mite because of their young age. Adult dogs can also develop demodicosis but there is often an underlying immunocompromising condition that allows the Demodex mite to proliferate. Demodex mites are not contagious to other dogs.

Your veterinarian may want to complete a skin scrape test to look for Demodex mites. There are several treatments for demodicosis. The only FDA-approved medication for demodicosis is a dip treatment called amitraz (brand name Mitaban). There are side effects to using amitraz and the odor of the dip is quite noxious. Other treatments for demodicosis are not FDA-approved for this purpose but have shown good efficacy in treating the condition. These treatments include ivermectin (an oral medication), milbemycin (found in several heartworm preventatives), moxidectin (found in some topical flea preventatives), and the fluralaner class of drugs (found in several oral flea/tick preventatives). Discuss with your veterinarian which treatment option is best for you and your dog.

Ectoparasites (skin parasites)

Skin parasites include mites and lice that do not belong on your dog. They include:

  • The Sarcoptes scabiei mite is the cause of sarcoptic mange, aka scabies. This mite burrows into your dog’s skin and lays eggs in the tunnels they create. Dogs have an allergic reaction to the poop that mites leave behind in the skin tunnels, causing the dog to become extremely itchy.
  • Cheyletiella yasguri (the cause of cheyletiellosis) is a white mite that lives on the surface of a dog’s skin. Dogs infected with Cheyletiella have dandruff that looks like it is moving. This infection is often called “walking dandruff.”
  • Trombiculidae, better known as “chiggers,” are tiny, orange-red mites that attach to a dog’s skin to feed for a few days before detaching.

The treatment for all three of these mites is similar and include amitraz and lime-sulfur topical dips, ivermectin (an oral medication), moxidectin and selamectin (found in some topical flea preventatives), and the fluralaner class of drugs (found in several oral flea/tick preventatives). Moxidectin and selamectin are FDA-approved for treating sarcoptes mange but have been found effective at treating walking dandruff and chiggers. The fluralaner class of drug is not FDA-approved for any of these mites but has been found to be effective. All three mites are zoonotic – they can be transmitted between animals and humans.

  • Ear mites. Otodectes cynotis are a species of mite that live in the dog’s ear canal (and thus are commonly just called ear mites). Sometimes ear mites will crawl out of the ear and reside in the skin around the ear and the face and neck, causing itchiness in those regions. Ear mites are primarily transmitted through close contact with another animal that has ear mites. Topical ear medications that contain milbemycin and flea preventatives that contains selamectin are effective treatments for ear mites. Ear mites can be transmitted between species of animals (like dogs, cats, and ferrets) but do not typically infect humans.
  • There are three species of lice that can infect dogs. One species is a sucking louse that attaches to a dog’s skin. The other two species are chewing lice that eat dead skin flakes, fur, and skin secretions. Lice glue their eggs to the shafts of fur – these little white or clear eggs are known as nits. Lice tend to be species-specific – they prefer the host for whom they developed. Effective treatments for lice in dogs include topical flea preventatives that contain selamectin, imidacloprid, or fipronil.
  • Ringworm. Dermatophytosis This fungal infection is best known by its common name. Ringworm is not a worm, but got its name because the skin lesions sometimes look like a raised squiggly ring that resembles a worm under the skin. Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from contaminated soil or from another infected animal or human.

Your veterinarian may want to examine your dog’s skin lesions with a special kind of light called a Wood’s lamp. One species of fungus that causes dermatophytosis will often glow the color of a green apple under a Wood’s lamp. Since not all fungal species that cause dermatophytosis will glow under a Wood’s lamp, a fungal culture may be necessary to confirm the diagnosis. Your veterinarian will brush the affected areas of skin with a new, previously unopened toothbrush to collect a sample. The sample is added to fungal culture medium and observed for 14 to 21 days for fungal growth.

Dermatophytosis is often treated with a combination of oral medication and topical ointment, shampoo, or dip. It is a zoonotic illness – this means it can be transmitted between animals and humans. Follow your veterinarian’s directions for safe handling of your dog while treating dermatophytosis and for how to clean the home.

Endocrine disorders

Hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism are two endocrine disorders that can be triggers for bacterial folliculitis.

  • Hypothyroidism is caused by a decreased production of thyroid hormone by the thyroid gland. Thyroid hormone plays a major role in many body systems, including the skin. Dogs with hypothyroidism may have dry, flaky skin and have a slow regrowth of fur. Fur naturally falls out over time, but when new fur is slow to grow, a dog with hypothyroidism may develop alopecia over certain areas of his or her body. The dry, flaky skin can sometimes facilitate the development of bacterial folliculitis. If your dog is also showing signs of lethargy and weight gain despite a decreased appetite, your veterinarian may order a full thyroid panel to screen for hypothyroidism. This disorder is treated with a daily medication called levothyroxine to replace missing thyroid hormone.
  • Hyperadrenocorticism (also known as Cushing’s disease) is caused by an increased production of cortisol by the adrenal glands. Cortisol is a steroid hormone that also plays a major role in many body systems. Too much cortisol can cause changes to a dog’s skin that can contribute to the development of chronic and recurrent bacterial folliculitis. Other signs that your dog may have Cushing’s disease include drinking more water and urinating more than usual, having an increased appetite, symmetrical alopecia, panting for no apparent reason, or having a pot-bellied appearance. Your veterinarian may order a screening test and then one of two diagnostic tests for hyperadrenocorticism. This disorder is treated with a daily medication called trilostane to reduce the amount of cortisol the adrenal glands produce.
  • Canine atopic dermatitis Another cause of bacterial folliculitis is canine atopic dermatitis (CAD). This is a diagnosis of exclusion – other causes of bacterial folliculitis are first investigated, treated, or ruled out before concluding that a dog has atopic dermatitis. It is caused by hypersensitivities to a combination of contact, inhaled, and/or food allergens.

There are several treatment options for CAD. Some of these treatment options – like Apoquel and Cytopoint – target a process in the body called the itch cascade. The itch cascade is a series of reactions that begins when a dog is exposed to an allergen. This series of reactions ends with the dog feeling itchy and licking or scratching at whatever is pruritic. When the itch cascade is interrupted, the dog does not reach the stage of feeling itchy.

Medications that modulate the immune system’s response to allergens – such as prednisone and Atopica (modified cyclosporine) – are another treatment option for CAD. There are potential side effects for both of these medications. Baseline bloodwork and periodic monitoring may be necessary when using prednisone or cyclosporine.

A prescription diet that addresses sensitive skin or food hypersensitivities may also be beneficial. Dogs who do not have known food hypersensitivities may benefit from a diet that promotes a healthy skin barrier and flora. This type of diet is available from both Hills and Royal Canin and can be ordered through your dog’s veterinarian.

Dogs with known food hypersensitivities may benefit from a limited ingredient, novel protein diet. Hills, Royal Canin, and Purina all have specially formulated diets that meet these criteria. Unlike limited ingredient diets that are available to purchase without a prescription, these diets are produced separately from other diets to eliminate cross-contamination with proteins that may cause an allergic reaction.

Dogs with CAD are more likely to be allergic to fleas. This condition is known as flea allergy dermatitis. Dogs with flea allergy dermatitis become itchy when a flea bites his or her skin. Using a high-quality flea preventative as directed will help to minimize the role that fleas play in CAD.

Immunotherapy is another treatment option for CAD. This involves exposing a dog to low doses of allergens to retrain how their immune system responds to exposure to those allergens. Testing is completed to determine what a dog is allergic to and how severe their response is to those allergens. Allergy testing can be completed by a blood test or by an intradermal skin test. An immunotherapy serum is created specifically for each individual dog and can be given by injection weekly or by mouth daily. Immunotherapy is continued for at least a year and sometimes longer to achieve a positive effect.

Proper diagnosis necessary

No matter what the precipitating cause, folliculitis can become serious if left untreated. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and appropriate treatment.

Food for Dogs with Liver Disease

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Preparing natural food for pets
It’s possible to make a homemade diet for dogs with liver disease, but get a recipe from a qualified veterinary nutritionist. The free ones on the internet are often not adequate or nutritionally balanced. Credit: humonia / Getty Images

Because the liver is intimately associated with digestion, feeding the proper diet to a dog with liver disease is an important part of his treatment. Your dog needs the right nutrients for good health, while minimizing the liver’s work in toxin clearance. The dog’s food must be highly digestible.

Protein is always the No. 1 in consideration when feeding a dog with liver disease. Your dog will need adequate protein for a dog with liver disease, with proper amounts and balances of essential amino acids. Eggs are often included, but too much protein can contribute to hepatic encephalopathy (a neurologic disease brought on by liver disease), which can be fatal. There’s a lot to consider when choosing liver disease dog food.

Homemade Liver Disease Dog Food

Many people want to do homemade dog food or a raw diet for liver disease, and that’s fine, but you should contact a veterinary nutritionist. Veterinarians and other experts in animal nutrition can provide you with balanced and complete recipes for your dog. Be wary of homemade recipes posted for free on websites and forums. You pretty much get what you pay for. Don’t take the risk.

Nutrients for Liver Disease Dog Food

Depending on the stage of your dog’s liver problem, limiting overall protein may be recommended. The amount of fat in the diet will be adjusted as well.

Dogs with liver problems may be deficit in some vitamins, especially the fat-soluble ones such as vitamins A, D, K and E. Adequate B vitamins are also important. A supplement might be in order but discuss this with your veterinarian.

If your dog has copper toxicosis, the mineral content of his diet has to be monitored very carefully. Phosphorus needs to be monitored as well.

Choosing the right diet for a dog with liver disease depends upon the cause of your dog’s liver problem and the stage. A diet will then be customized to your dog. This might be a prescription diet from your veterinarian. If your dog doesn’t like the prescribed diet, try again. Many different formulations and flavors are available from several companies. And you can usually get canned or dry. There is almost always a diet to fit your dog’s needs that he likes.

Can Dogs Eat Cabbage?

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Dogs can eat cabbage, and it has some health benefits.
Dogs can eat cabbage, raw or cooked, but it should be fed in small amounts, like as an occasional treat. Be aware cabbage can increase flatulence in dogs. Credit: Boris Zhitkov / Getty Images.

Cabbage can provide some fiber and lots of vitamins and minerals. It has plenty of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium, magnesium, and beta carotene (a precursor of vitamin A). As is true of many vegetables, it also has plenty of antioxidants. Plus, many dogs enjoy crunching on small pieces of cabbage.

Dogs can eat raw cabbage, but that should be fed in relatively small amounts. Both red and green cabbage are acceptable. The fiber in cabbage can help with both constipation and diarrhea, but too much, especially raw, may cause some constipation.

Dogs can have cooked cabbage too, but if you decide to cook some cabbage for your dog, note that cabbage cooked for dogs should be plain. The added spices, butter, and other things that you enjoy are often not good for your dog.

Feeding cabbage to dogs does have some drawbacks. Cabbage is well known for flatulence. If your dog is already a bit of a social outcast for his flatulence, adding cabbage will only makes things worse. In addition, excessive gas production in the gastrointestinal tract may contribute to bloat or gastric dilatation/volvulus, commonly termed “GDV.”

You should be aware that feeding cabbage adds thiocyanate to your dog’s diet. This compound can have adverse effects on the thyroid gland, so dogs who are already hypothyroid ought to skip their cabbage snack.

Cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable, like broccoli and cauliflower, which means it adds calcium oxalate to your dog’s diet. If your dog is a one of the breeds or mixes that are prone to forming calcium oxalate stones or crystals in his urine, he is better off skipping all those vegetables. Affected breeds include Bichons, Miniature Schnauzers, Lhasa Apsos, Yorkshire Terriers, and Shih Tzus.

Bottom line: Small amounts of cabbage are fine for most dogs but consider using it as an occasional treat.

Rainy Day Activities for Your Dog

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dog chewing bone
These straight leg bones with marrow in them have been the best time-consuming tools for my dogs. They can't quite reach the marrow in the very center of the long bones but they take a lot of time trying.

You will not catch me, a native of drought-ridden northern California, complaining about how many days of rain, we have had, no ma’am, nor about how many days of rain that we are being told are on the horizon. I say, BRING IT.

My year-old dog Boone, however, disagrees. He is bored, bored, boooored.

It hasn’t helped that both my husband and I have been sick with some sort of virus for what feels like weeks, and so I have only taken the dogs off the property for a proper walk only a couple times in the past few weeks.

Here’s what I’ve been doing to try to keep the adolescent dog (especially) entertained:

  • Providing bones to chew. I recently found a local butcher who would take an order for the best kind of marrow bones – the leg bones that have been cut off cleanly at the ends. I’ve bought other bones from the butcher, but many of them come with either sharp edges or material that my aggressive chewers can just too easily chew off and swallow in chunks. The leg bones keep them occupied for long periods and have been a lifesaver (for me!) for the past few weeks.
  • Providing cardboard boxes to destroy. Neither of my adult dogs chew cardboard, but Boone loves a big box. It can take him hours to shred a big Chewy box down to a pile of little scraps, and he’s happy to do it. I now save random boxes for him to tear up when I need an hour or so of uninterrupted time. Yes, it’s a mess, but if I keep the activity confined to my office, it cleans up pretty quickly.
dog shredding cardboard
Fortunately, Boone doesn’t have any interest in consuming the cardboard, or this wouldn’t be such a great time-consuming activity for him. He will shred and shred for an hour quite happily.
  • Food puzzles and food-spilling toys. I have to separate the dogs to employ these, so as great as they are for occupying the dogs, it takes a bit of management work to give everyone a turn, so these have not been high on my list, even though the dogs love them. Food-stuffed and frozen Kongs work more like bones; I can hand them out all around and everyone is happy for a while. But they don’t take much brain-power or reduce the dogs’ energy much.
dog with treat puzzle toy
Toys like this are a great way to tire out a dog mentally, but they require individual set-up and supervision. If I had just one dog, I would likely feed him his ration in this type of toy. It would take several refills to hold each meal!

What do you do with your dogs when they are super bored?

Should My Dog Sleep in My Bed?

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Should your dog sleep in your bed? There are several pros and cons.
Yes, your dog can sleep in bed with you, according to several studies and the opinions of sleep experts. Credit: Boris Jovanovic / Getty Images

Sleeping with your dog in bed can be cozy, but it’s a bit of a controversy. Of course, there are pros and cons to consider whether or not your dog should sleep in your bed. The strongest pro includes feelings of safety and security. The most valid con is that if you or your human bed partner have allergies and asthma that could be exacerbated by the dog, then it may not be the best idea.

If not, go ahead and share your bed with your dog. Several studies support your decision, all concluding that it’s fine. A 2020 study published in Animals, even assessed whether a dog’s movement would disrupt a person’s sleeping. It does not. The researchers found a positive relationship between human and dog movement over sleep periods and no negative effects.

Considerations if your dog will share your bed:

  • Your dog should be well groomed.
  • You should use flea/tick preventatives on your dog.
  • If your dog has difficulty getting in or out of the bed (little dog, senior dog), consider a small ottoman at the foot of the bed, pet stairs, or a ramp to make it easier for him to get in or out of the bed.
  • Keep a water bowl available in the bedroom for your dog.
  • If your older dog has incontinence issues, you can use a belly band (male dogs) or doggie diaper at night.
  • Use a breathable, waterproof mattress protector.

Unfortunately, a myth is still circulating that dogs can become dominant or spoiled by sleeping in your bed. This myth is based the “dominance theory,” which means humans need to show our dogs that we are the alpha member in our family pack. Wrong. Wrong. Wrong. Animal behaviorists proved long ago that the dominance theory is not only nonsense, it’s counterproductive to training your dog to do anything. There are no behavior problems associated with a dog sleeping in your bed.

Should You Take a Dog on an Escalator?

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Fear of Escalator
A small dog you can securely hold could ride with you on an escalator, otherwise, avoid taking a dog on an escalator. Credit: U.Ozel.Images / Getty Images

No escalator is safe for your dog. With all the moving parts of an escalator, your dog’s paws, nails, tail, or coat can easily become entangled in the mechanism. If his leash becomes entwined in the escalator, your dog may choke to death before you can do anything about it. (Always have a safe, releasable collar on your dog with proper ID.)

Many airports and other buildings forbid dogs to be transported on escalators or moving walkways for good reason. Elevators are normally available—ask someone if you don’t know where they are—or take the stairs. Better yet, consider leaving your dog home.

If your dog is small enough, you could take him on an escalator if he’s in a safe travel crate. For tiny dogs, carrying your dog up an escalator is OK, but only if he’s small enough to comfortably hold and he doesn’t get scared and try to wiggle free. Plus, you still must be certain the leash can’t get caught.

If your dog is too large for you to safely carry on the escalator, use the stairs or elevator instead. Even guide-dog training schools avoid taking dogs on escalators.

If you’re determined to teach your dog to ride an escalator, you need a place where you can monopolize an escalator every day until he is trained. But bear in mind that this training is not something to attempt without a qualified fear-free/force-free dog trainer to help you. See this guide from Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine for information if you absolutely must.

What’s a Therapy Dog?

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Young girl in hospital hugging therapy dog
The more you take your dog everywhere and invite petting from strangers of all ages, the better. In fact, the most important instruction you can teach your prospective therapy dog is, “Go say hi.” Well-socialized therapy dogs look forward to visiting all kinds of people in all kinds of settings. Photo ©monkeybusinessimages | Getty Images

Therapy dogs are trained to provide affection and support to humans. They visit hospitals, assisted living homes, courtrooms, counseling offices, schools, airports, and other facilities where they offer comfort and relieve stress.

In addition to providing opportunities for petting and support, some therapy dog/handler teams work with healthcare professionals to improve treatment outcomes (animal-assisted therapy) or participate in literacy (read-to-the-dogs) programs.

Therapy dogs do not enjoy special rights of access to housing, travel, or entry into businesses that do not permit pet dogs. Their training differs from that of service and emotional support dogs, who are trained to focus on a single person; therapy dogs interact with many people in different environments for short periods.

Therapy dog qualifications

To be a registered therapy dog, your dog should be:

  • At least 1 year old (the minimum age for some programs is 18 or 24 months).
  • Friendly, affectionate, and enjoy being petted by strangers.
  • Calm, quiet, and well behaved, possessing basic “good manners” skills.
  • Clean and well groomed.
  • Comfortable traveling to new locations.
  • More interested in interacting with people than with other animals.

The therapy dog/handler team is a unit. A dog and handler train together, are tested together, and make visits together. This means that you, the handler, have requirements, too. A therapy dog handler should:

  • Enjoy interacting with people.
  • Act as your dog’s advocate, always putting your dog’s needs first.
  • Learn therapy dog handling techniques.
  • Dress and behave professionally.

Therapy dog training requirements

Caregivers Helping Senior Woman to Walk With a Dog In Retirement Home
In animal-assisted therapy programs, therapy dogs and their handlers work under the direction of healthcare professionals to help clients achieve specific goals. Photo ©CasarsaGuru | Getty Images

There are no standard courses that must be completed in order for your dog to become a therapy dog, though some programs, such as Pet Partners and Intermountain Therapy Animals, require prospective handlers to attend training workshops without their dogs.

That said, all therapy dog organizations screen dog/handler teams. Some dog trainers and pet supply stores like Petco offer therapy dog training classes as preparation for these entry level exams.  Most preparation classes include the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test. In the CGC test, dogs are expected to:

  • Accept being petted by a friendly stranger and sit politely for petting.
  • Be clean and well groomed.
  • Walk calmly on a loose leash.
  • Walk calmly through a crowd of moving people.
  • Sit and stay on cue; come when called.
  • Walk calmly past another dog.
  • Respond calmly to a noise distraction.
  • Remain calm while the handler leaves the room for 3 minutes.

Skills that will be tested

Most therapy dog organizations use all or part of the CGC test as a skills test, then add behaviors that demonstrate an aptitude for therapy work. In this part of the test, dogs are expected to interact with people in a friendly way and:

  • Stay relaxed during an overall exam (thorough handling of all body parts).
  • Stay calm during exuberant, clumsy petting.
  • Stay calm during a restraining hug.
  • Stay calm and friendly during role-play with a person in a wheelchair.
  • Recover quickly from distractions like angry yelling, bumps from behind, or role-play with someone using a walker.
  • Stay calm while being petted by several people.
  • Ignore distractions like toys or food.
  • Accept a treat gently.

How do I get my therapy dog certified?

While the term “certification” is used by some therapy dog organizations, most prefer the term “registration.”  Anyone can purchase from online sources an official-looking therapy dog vest, certificate, and ID badge, but what matters to facilities that welcome therapy dogs is their training, screening, and liability insurance. Online sites that register or certify therapy dogs for a fee don’t provide these essentials, which makes their credentials meaningless.

In contrast, legitimate therapy dog organizations offer handler support and training, opportunities to visit prescreened facilities, social events for dogs and handlers – and, importantly, they provide liability insurance to dog/handler teams who are registered members in good standing. Membership fees, background checks, dog health/age/breed requirements, renewal schedules, and volunteer time commitments vary.

Important concepts for handlers

Therapy dogs are the stars of every visit, but their handlers’ support is crucial. Proactive therapy dog handlers anticipate problems and protect their dogs from uncomfortable situations. As Kathy Klotz, executive director of Intermountain Therapy Animals, explains:

  • Dogs are true partners, not pieces of equipment to trot out when it serves our own needs and desires. They should be respected, honored, and appreciated.
  • Dogs’ intuition usually exceeds our own as to who most needs their attention and even what that attention should look like.
  • Only a few dogs (some experts estimate only 10%) have the appropriate temperament to truly enjoy therapy work. A dog who doesn’t want the job will make no connection with clients, no magic will happen, and the handler will not find visits rewarding at all.
  • Therapy dogs who enjoy their work willingly consent to receiving greetings, petting, and hugs. Handlers need to be proactive so that no client interacts with their partners in any way that the animals don’t enjoy. Therapy dogs must never be required to “put up” with anything that’s beyond their capacity or tolerance.
How Can I Learn More?

To ascertain which of the national therapy-dog organizations would be a good fit for you and your dog, see their websites (listed below), which explain animal-assisted interactions in detail and describe the organizations’ different approaches and requirements.

The following books are also valuable resources:

Teaming with Your Therapy Dog
by Ann R. Howie, Purdue University Press, 2015

Becoming a Therapy Dog Team: Guidance and Advice
      by Katha Miller-Winder, Ph.D., independently published, 2021

Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs

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Anti-anxiety medications for dogs can help calm destructive behaviors.
Anxiety may manifest in dogs as distress when separated from their owners, extreme vigilance or excitement in public, overreactivity to other dogs, and many other behaviors that many owners find problematic. These behaviors are not just burdensome for the dog’s owner, they are indications of the dog’s distress, if not suffering. Photo by Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

Anxiety, and the behavior problems stemming from it, is increasingly common in our companion dogs. If you have one of these dogs, you know how heartbreaking and disruptive this can be. Anxious dogs are not comfortable. They can’t relax. Sometimes they are downright panicky. This can lead to dangerous destructive behaviors, house-soiling, and even aggression. Luckily, there are many safe and effective anti-anxiety medications for dogs that can help your quivering canine.

The trick is to find the right ones, at the right dose, and the right combination. Take detailed notes of your dog’s behaviors, and response or lack of response to any drugs and dosages tried. Your veterinarian will use this information to tweak your dog’s protocol until the desired result is achieved. It’s a process that can take some time, so be patient and work closely with your veterinarian.

 

What medication can and cannot do for your dog

It’s important to mention that medication alone is not likely to be a magic bullet, miraculously turning your anxious dog into a calm, confident, well-mannered one; however, it drastically enhances the effectiveness of desensitization to triggers and behavioral modification – the mainstay of treatment and long-term management of anxiety-associated behavior issues.

Many highly anxious dogs fail to show the kind of progress in training that is typical for dogs without anxiety; that’s because anxiety, fear, and panic impair a dog’s ability to focus and learn. Anxiolytic (anxiety-reducing) medications ease the symptoms of anxiety, fear, and panic, allowing your dog to absorb and learn during desensitization and behavior modification exercises. The combination of medication and behavior modification, under the direction of a force-free trainer and veterinarian or veterinary behavior specialist, is the gold standard for treating canine anxiety.

Types of Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs

There are several classes of drugs used for anxiety in dogs. Some are long-acting and meant to be used daily. Others are short-acting and meant to be used situationally as needed, although they can be used daily in combination with a long-acting medication.

Most of the drugs used for anxiety in dogs are prescribed off-label, meaning the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) has not determined the safety and efficacy of the medication for the intended purpose.

Don’t let off-label use be a deal-breaker for you. These medications have been used safely and effectively in veterinary medicine for decades. Your veterinarian should have a conversation with you regarding off-label drug usage so you can give informed consent, and you’re ready to get started.

When multiple medications are necessary to achieve the desired result, drugs from different classes can be safely combined. This enhances their beneficial effects without doubling up on side effects. Never use two drugs from the same class at the same time.

We’ll take a look at each of the main classes of drugs used for anxiety in dogs, which are:

Selective Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitors (SSRIs)

The drugs that belong to this class and are commonly given to dogs are:

  • Fluoxetine (Prozac)
  • Paroxetine (Paxil)
  • Citalopram (Celexa)
  • Sertraline (Zoloft)

Serotonin is a neurotransmitter highly involved in mood and emotions. It is known to produce calm and lessen overactive responses to normal stimuli. SSRIs decrease the reabsorption of serotonin, resulting in increased amounts circulating in the brain, which helps manage anxiety, aggression, and obsessive-compulsive behaviors (e.g., self-mutilation by licking or chewing, flank sucking, tail chasing, pacing/circling, incessant barking) in dogs.

SSRIs are long-acting medications that are prescribed for dogs with generalized anxiety issues needing help on a daily basis. They generally take four to six weeks to reach full effect, so shorter-acting anxiolytic medications are usually prescribed with them in the beginning.

Never use an SSRI with a TCA, nor use two SSRIs at once, as this can result in serotonin syndrome (see sidebar). If you don’t see the desired result from the first SSRI medication you try, your vet should guide you through tapering your dog off the first medication before prescribing another.

Tricyclic Antidepressants (TCAs)

The drugs that belong to this class and are commonly given to dogs are:

  • Clomipramine (Clomicalm)
  • Amitriptyline (Elavil)

TCAs affect several different neurotransmitters, including serotonin, resulting in increased calm and dampened panic responses. They are long-acting medications given daily to help manage anxiety and obsessive-compulsive behaviors in dogs. They do not work for aggression. TCAs usually take three to four weeks to maximum effect. Do not use with an SSRI, and never use more than one TCA at a time. Do not stop abruptly. Always taper off these medications.

Benzodiazepines

The drugs that belong to this class and are commonly given to dogs are:

  • Alprazolam (Xanax)
  • Clonazepam (Klonopin)
  • Lorazepam (Ativan)
  • Diazepam (Valium)

Benzodiazepines are fast-acting (60 to 90 minutes), short duration (4 to 12 hours), anxiolytic medications that promote calm by increasing the effects of gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA), the main inhibitory neurotransmitter in the central nervous system. They can be used alone or in combination with other classes of behavior-modifying drugs. They can be used “as needed” for situational triggers, or included as part of a daily multi-drug protocol.

Benzodiazepines are federally controlled drugs (meaning there are legal limits on their prescription).  Physical dependence with increasing dose tolerance is unfortunately a possibility when benzodiazepines are used long-term. To avoid withdrawal symptoms (confusion, vocalization, tremors, twitching, seizures, and death), always slowly taper off these medications after long-term use.

Serotonin Antagonist and Reuptake Inhibitors (SARIs)

Only one drug belongs to this class that is commonly given to dogs:

  • Trazodone

Trazodone is pretty much the only SARI used in veterinary medicine. SARIs keep more serotonin circulating by both decreasing its reabsorption and blocking its receptors. SARIs have both anxiolytic and sedative effects. They are rapid-acting (30 to 90 minutes), have a short duration (4 to 8 hours), and are non-addictive. They can be used alone, as needed for situational anxiety, or included daily as part of a multi-drug regime.

Trazodone has a wide dosage range so it will typically be started low and ramped up from there. Because SARIs increase serotonin, combining them with SSRIs and TCAs comes with a slight risk of serotonin syndrome. However, trazodone is routinely used together with SSRIs in dogs, with few reports of this.

Alpha-2 Agonists

The drugs that belong to this class and are commonly given to dogs are:

  • Clonidine
  • Dexmedetomidine (Sileo)

Alpha-2 agonists inhibit the release of norepinephrine (adrenaline) in the central nervous system. As inhibitors, they really work only if given before your dog gets upset. Once he’s upset, adrenaline has already been released along with its “fight or flight” response, and it’s too late.

Alpha-2 agonists are given prior to stressful situations known to invoke fear in your dog (such as veterinary visits or any situation that tends to trigger your dog’s separation anxiety, noise phobia, fear aggression, or leash reactivity). Onset is rapid (30 to 90 minutes), duration is short (2 to 4 hours), and they are safe to use with most other anxiolytic medications. As such, they can be added to a daily multi-drug regimen.

Anticonvulsant/neuropathic pain reliever

Only one drug belongs to this class that is commonly given to dogs:

  • Gabapentin

Gabapentin is frequently used in combination with other anxiolytic medications for its mild sedative effect. It works by blocking certain biochemical channels in the brain, which calms overstimulated neurons, helping lessen feelings of anxiety. Gabapentin takes effect within 1 to 2 hours and lasts 6 to 8 hours. There is a wide dose range. Your veterinarian will likely start with a low dosage and increase the dose as needed. It can be used situationally, often in combination with trazodone, or it can be added to a daily multi-drug regime.

For more information about gabapentin, see “Gabapentin for Dogs: What You Should Know,” WDJ April 2021.

Be persistent when finding the right anti-anxiety medication for your dog

Finding the right medication (or combination of medications) and the right doses for your dog’s anxiety can be challenging. If a medication is not working well enough and maximum dose has not been reached, sometimes simply increasing the dose may work, assuming the side effects aren’t too bad. Other times a different drug from the same class will work better. Combining medications from different classes is often the ticket. And remember, SSRIs and TCAs take weeks to reach full affect, so adding a short-acting drug in the beginning is always helpful.

Here are some examples of how a case may be managed:

A dog with separation anxiety might be started on fluoxetine daily, with alprazolam as the short-acting medication for the first 4 to 6 weeks. If this isn’t working, the veterinarian may add gabapentin, or discontinue alprazolam and add trazodone. At 6 weeks, if the desired effect has not been achieved, the vet may increase the dose of fluoxetine and add clonidine. If this doesn’t work, fluoxetine may be tapered off and a different SSRI or TCA started as the long-acting daily medication.

A dog with generalized anxiety who is also reactive on leash (see “On-Leash Aggression)” may do well with a daily SSRI or TCA, and clonidine given an hour before going for walks.

Trazodone combined with gabapentin is frequently used for fear and anxiety associated with veterinary visits. If this isn’t enough, clonidine or dexmedetomidine may be added.

Fortunately, no matter what your dog’s issues are, there are many possible medications and medication combinations available to try, with the simple goal of finding what works best for your dog with the least amount of side effects.

Serotonin Syndrome

Serotonin syndrome is what happens when there is too much serotonin floating around in the brain. It can happen either by accidental overdose of one serotonin-enhancing medication or inadvertently when two or more serotonin-enhancing medications are used together. It is potentially life-threatening so it’s important to recognize the early signs.

Initially, the dog may seem overly sedate. This is followed by panting, confusion, disorientation, agitation, vocalization, vomiting, and diarrhea. Without intervention, next comes rigid muscles, tremors, seizures, coma, and death.

If you have any feeling this may be happening, seek veterinary attention right away. Give your veterinarian a list of all medications and supplements your dog is on, along with dosages. Treatment is mostly supportive and usually requires hospitalization for 12 to 48 hours.

Here are medications/supplements most commonly involved in serotonin syndrome in dogs:

SSRIs (fluoxetine)

TCAs (clomipramine)

SARIs (trazodone)

MAO inhibitors (selegeline)

Opioids (tramadol)

Tryptophan (found in over-the-counter [OTC] supplements

Chlorpheniramine (an OTC antihistamine)

Dextromethorphan (present in some OTC cough suppressants)

St. John’s Wort, ginseng, griffonia seed extract (herbal)

Potential Alternatives to Medication

Some owners prefer a more natural approach to their dog’s health, avoiding long-term prescription medications if at all possible. Here’s a list of things that are worth trying, either alone or in combination:

Most Commonly Prescribed Medications for Dogs with Anxiety

ClassSample MedicationOnsetDurationIndicationsContra-indicationsCautionsSide EffectsUsed
SSRIFluoxetineSlow, 4-6 weeksLong, 24-48 hoursAggression, anxiety, phobias, compulsive behaviorsSeizures, liver diseaseDiabetes, bleeding disorders; taper offAnorexia, vomiting, diarheaOnce daily, alone or in combination
TCAClomipramine Slow, 3-4 weeksLong, 24-48 hoursAnxiety, compulsive behaviorsThyroid disease, seizures, MAO inhibitors, male breeding dogsCardiac disease; taper offVomiting, diarrhea, or constipationOnce or twice daily, alone or in combination
BenzodiazepineAlprazolam Rapid, 30-60 minutesShort, 2-6 hoursAnxiety, phobias, fearLiver disease, glaucomaKidney disease, physical dependence; taper offSedation, wobblinessTwo to four times daily as needed, alone or in combination
SARITrazodone Intermediate, 1-2 hoursShort, 2-8 hoursAnxiety, sedationMAO inhibitorsCardiac disease, kidney disease, liver disease, bleeding disordersIncreased appetite, mild GI upsetTwo to three times daily as needed, alone or in combination
Alpha-2 agonistClonidineRapid, 30-90 minutesShort, 2-4 hoursAnxiety, fear, panicIf already agitatedCardiovascular disease, kidney diseaseSedation, dry mouth, constipation, low heart rateOne to four times daily as needed, alone or in combination
Anti-convulsant, neuropathic pain relieverGabapentin Intermediate, 1-2 hoursIntermediate, 6-8 hoursAnxiety, fearNoneKidney disease; taper offSedation, wobblinessTwo to three times daily, usually in combination

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