When it comes to the gear that your dog wears in order to stay connected and communicating with you, his or her comfort should be the chief selection criteria. The product’s security is also important. Photo by Capuski / Getty Images
There are so many dogs collars and harnesses to choose from, and so much conflicting information comparing a dog collar vs harnesses! How do you know which is best for your puppy – or your adult dog? While the answer is “it depends,” here are some guidelines to help you choose the best gear for your canine companion.
Dog Collars vs Harnesses: Gear to dismiss from consideration
The easiest part of selecting collars or harnesses is determining which ones to dismiss. We disqualify from consideration any equipment that’s designed to cause pain or discomfort to your dog. This includes shock collars (marketed euphemistically as “e-collars”), prong and choke collars, and “no-pull” harnesses that tighten around your dog’s barrel. Don’t let anyone tell you that these aren’t aversive. They are; that’s how they control the dog, through pain.
We prefer to teach dogs how to behave on leash, rather than just inflict discomfort in order to suppress their pulling or other unwanted behavior.
Next, we recommend rejecting any equipment that your dog finds aversive, even if it isn’t designed or intended to be. If you use gear that your dog clearly hates, it will be difficult for her to happily learn and cooperate with you.
We love the Perfect Fit Modular Fleece-Lined Harness. These are comprised of three separate components (two components for tiny dogs)– girth, front, and top – each of which is measured and ordered separately for a perfect fit! Available from cleanrun.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns
There are some products that most dogs dislike when initially introduced, such as head halters. Most dogs require a very slow, tactful introduction and considerable conditioning to regard these products as acceptable – and many owners find the counter-conditioning and desensitization process required to get their dogs to accept head halters (in particular) to be excruciatingly slow going. If your dog shows she hates her head halter, I’d recommend setting it aside.
Vibration collars are often marketed as aversive, but if you build a positive association for your dog with the vibration from the start, it can be used in a positive way. Owners of deaf dogs often use vibration collars to signal or cue their dogs for various behaviors, but a dog doesn’t have to be deaf for the collar to be used in this way. But again, if your dog shows you that she finds the vibration aversive, despite your efforts to counter-condition and desensitize her to it, it’s a no-go. (See “Vibration Collars: What You Should Know,” WDJ November 2019, for more information about using vibration collars in a positive way for cuing your dog.)
Most dogs are happy with a regular harness, and these are generally considered to be non-aversive. However, if your dog runs away from you when you pick up her harness she’s telling you she hates it; cross it off your list!
Gear we like
A leash is clipped to both rings on Chinook & Co.’s breakaway safety collar, allowing it to be used as a regular walking collar. With the leash unclipped, the breakaway feature is enabled again. See breakawaycollar.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Every collar or harness has the potential to be aversive if improperly used, so even our approved training tools should be used correctly – no yanking, jerking, or hanging, please! In general, our favorite gear for walking dogs includes:
Generally, flat collars, properly fitted martingale collars, and front-and/or back-clip harnesses are our first tools of choice.
For dogs who don’t pull, flat collars and back-clip harnesses are perfect.
If your dog has learned to back out of her collar, martingale collars can be a lifesaver. Sometimes called “Greyhound collars,” martingale collars are ideal for dogs with very narrow skulls, as well as thick-necked dogs whose heads are smaller than their necks. These “limited slip” collars tighten with leash tension, but only to a certain point – just enough to prevent them from slipping over the dog’s head.
Martingale collars can tighten to prevent the dog from slipping free, but can’t tighten enough to choke the dog. Many of them have to be pulled over the dog’s head and then adjusted so they can no longer be pulled over the head. We prefer the models that have a quick-release buckle, which don’t require constant adjustments. Photo by Nancy Kerns
For dogs who pull, we like the newer generation of front-clip harnesses. These products don’t have straps that go across the shoulder and impede the dog’s movement. See “The Best Front Clip Harnesses,” April 2017, for our favorites. We find head halters and vibration collars to be acceptable for dogs who are comfortable with them.
We recommend breakaway collars for dogs who play and wrestle with a lot of mouth-to-neck biting. Alternatively, remove your dogs’ collars before they play – or when you leave them together unsupervised – to prevent potentially deadly choking accidents.
Choosing a collar for puppies requires the utmost of care. It should be obvious that aversive tools are off the table, but even flat collars have potential to significantly damage baby-soft tracheas if you have a puppy who pulls. Be extra careful with your baby dog to be sure you aren’t putting pressure on that tender throat; a harness is generally a better choice.
You Choose
There is no pat answer to the collar/harness question. Review the options, get some help (if needed) with the fit of the product you choose, watch to see how your dog responds to your choice – and make changes accordingly. And remember to train your dog, so pulling becomes less of an issue regardless of what equipment you choose. (See “Polite Leash Walking,” September 2021, and “No Need for Force: How to Stop Your Dog From Pulling on the Leash,” April 2022.)
If your dog doesn’t swim well, he should be introduced to the water wearing a top-quality canine flotation device. But whether he’s a swimming novice or an expert, take the time to make sure he knows where the pool stairs are located and doesn’t try to get out of the pool anywhere else. Photo by Stephanie Colman
The term “dog paddle” has become synonymous with staying afloat in the water. It’s the first swim stroke most children learn – moving their hands and legs alternately – in a way that’s similar to how experienced dogs and other quadrupedal mammals swim.
The key word is “experienced.” Inexperienced (or panicked) dogs often concentrate their efforts on the front legs, forgetting to fire up the back end. Front-end-only swimming is ineffective and leaves dogs near-vertical in the water. It creates a lot of disorienting splashing, requires tremendous energy, and is a dangerous way for your dog to enjoy a dip in the pool, lake, or ocean.
The following two tips will help your dog improve his swim stroke:
Support your dog’s back end. Joining your dog in the water and gently supporting his back end as he swims can help him learn to level out and begin using his front and rear legs in unison. For dogs who still lag in kicking their rear legs, touching their feet underwater can prompt kicking.
Use a well-fitted life jacket. A dog life jacket can help keep your dog afloat and help anxious swimmers begin to relax enough to think about paddling with all four legs. (See “Dog Life Jacket Review,” WDJ August 2021, for recommendations.)
Dog Water Safety Training
Keep these things in mind to help ensure safe swimming:
Body type matters! Your dog’s breed, build, and overall health have a lot to do with how effectively she can handle herself in the water. Breeds with broad chests and shorter legs (Bulldogs, Corgis, Pugs, etc.) aren’t designed for effective swimming. Heavily muscled dogs – like many of the so-called “bully” breeds – exert a lot of energy in the water due to their greater body mass.
Teach your dog to safely enter and exit the pool. Ideally, your dog will enter and exit the pool only via the steps. Even accomplished swimmers can drown while unsuccessfully trying to claw their way out from the edge of the pool. And dog cannonball entrances, while fun to watch, are unsafe when dogs and people are simultaneously in the water.
Start by making the top step of the pool a great place to be by feeding your dog high-value treats at that location. Eventually carry or guide your dog into the water a few feet from the steps and release him to swim back to the steps where a party awaits. Repeat until your dog is patterned to head toward the steps from any direction.
Everything in moderation. Swimming is a great way for dogs to burn excess energy, stay in shape, and even shed some unwanted pounds, but don’t overdo it. The more overweight the dog, the faster he will tire. Watch out for “weekend warrior syndrome,” where a dog who is mostly sedentary suddenly gets too much exercise. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness.
Swim school for dogs
If you want to make sure your dog will be safe near and in the water, but aren’t comfortable teaching the skills yourself, look for a positive reinforcement trainer to help you. Many dog trainers offer water safety training and many training facilities features pools where your dog can perfect his skills and enjoy fun water play.
There are many orthopedic conditions that can affect our dogs, but the one that strikes fear in the hearts of most dog parents is hip dysplasia. With early detection, hip dysplasia can be successfully managed in puppies. Even dogs with arthritis secondary to hip dysplasia can have an improved quality of life with surgical intervention or medical management.
Hip dysplasia is the malformation of the hip joint during a puppy’s growth period. The hip joint is composed of two parts: the head of the femur (ball) and the acetabulum (socket). This is why the hip is known as a ball and socket joint.
When a puppy grows, the head of the femur and the acetabulum need to grow at a uniform rate. This creates a snug fit of the ball within the socket. In hip dysplasia, the head of the femur and the acetabulum grow at different rates, creating laxity within the joint.
To demonstrate what this looks like, form a fist with your left hand. This represents the head of the femur. Now cup your right hand snugly over your fist. This represents the acetabulum. Rotate your fist inside of your cupped hand; this is how the ball of the hip moves naturally within the socket.
In a puppy or dog with hip dysplasia, the acetabulum does not fit snugly around the ball of the femur. Relax the fingers on your right hand so they are no longer snugly cupping your fist. Now rotate and move your fist within your right hand. Your fist has a lot more space to move around; this is analogous to the joint laxity in hip dysplasia.
When the ball sloshes around in the socket, the cartilage lining the ball collides with the cartilage lining the socket in unnatural ways. Over time, your dog’s body creates scar tissue along the edges of the cartilage to stabilize the hip joint. This scar tissue is not smooth like cartilage; it is bumpy and irregular.
A hip joint that is lined with scar tissue is known as an arthritic joint. Walking with an arthritic hip joint is painful. Your dog may exhibit periodic or chronic lameness. Dogs that live with a low level of chronic pain may not always exhibit lameness. But they will often have a shortened stride in their hind limbs or have atrophied thigh muscles because they cannot fully extend their hips.
What causes hip dysplasia in dogs?
Hip dysplasia is a hereditary condition that is influenced by several environmental factors during a puppy’s growth period. These factors include nutrition, exercise, and growth rate. Any breed of dog can be affected by hip dysplasia, although it is more commonly seen in large breed dogs such as German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and Saint Bernards.
Large breed puppies (any puppy that will weigh more than 50 pounds as an adult) should be fed a high-quality large breed puppy food. Puppy food that is formulated specifically for large breeds delivers a more controlled amount of calcium and protein to ensure proper bone development.
All puppies regardless of breed or size should be kept lean as they grow and not be allowed to gain excess weight. Being overweight puts additional strain on the hip joints and promotes joint laxity. The best way to ensure that your puppy grows at the correct rate is to feed two or three meals daily and follow your veterinarian’s recommendation on how much to feed at each meal.
Strenuous exercise in puppies, such as long hikes or going for long runs, can lead to premature excessive muscle development. This can contribute to laxity of the hip by changing the mechanical forces on the joint as it develops.
What are the signs of hip dysplasia in dogs?
Puppies who have hip dysplasia may walk with a bunny hop gait in their hind limbs. However, many puppies with hip dysplasia show no overt signs of lameness or gait abnormalities.
As dogs with hip dysplasia age and develop arthritic hip joints, they may show periodic lameness, a reluctance to use stairs, and may be slow to rise from a sitting or laying position. It is important to note that not all arthritic hip joints are caused by hip dysplasia. And the aforementioned signs can also be caused by osteoarthritis in joints other than the hips. Have your dog assessed by his veterinarian to determine the underlying cause of his discomfort and formulate a treatment plan.
How is hip dysplasia diagnosed?
The gold standard for diagnosing hip dysplasia is with radiographs (x-rays) of the hips. Your dog will require moderate to heavy sedation or even a brief period of anesthesia to complete these radiographs.
Owners would be wise to err on the conservative side with pups who are of one of the breeds that are most frequently plagued with hip dysplasia. Jumping should be extremely limited – and daily jogging with a dog under a year old is ill-advised in a vulnerable breed. Photo by Anita Kot /Getty Images
There are two radiographic methods for diagnosing hip dysplasia. One method involves completing a single radiograph of your dog’s hips while he is laying on his back with his hind limbs extended. This is called an extended ventrodorsal view of the pelvis. This radiograph can be interpreted by a board-certified veterinary radiologist or submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) for analysis and certification.
The second method is a specialized set of radiographs called PennHIP (this stands for the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program). The PennHIP method requires three views of your dog’s hips. The first view is the extended ventrodorsal view discussed above and is used to detect if any arthritic changes are evident in the hip joints.
The second view simulates how the hip joints would appear if your dog were held up in a standing but non-weight bearing position. The third view simulates how your dog’s hip joints would appear if he were standing and bearing weight on his hind limbs. This is achieved through the use of a special positioning device for his hind limbs.
The extended ventrodorsal view of the pelvis is the most widely used radiographic method for diagnosing hip dysplasia. It can be done by any veterinarian and requires no special equipment or additional training. However, this method does not take into account the forces that apply pressure to the hips when a dog is standing. Therefore, the hips of some dogs with hip dysplasia may appear normal using this method. Also, this view may not be diagnostic in dogs who are less than 1 year old.
In contrast, the PennHIP method can be used to detect if a puppy is likely to develop hip dysplasia. This method can be used in puppies as young as 4 months old. Only veterinarians who have undergone specialized training can utilize the PennHIP method to screen for and diagnose hip dysplasia.
There is a simple palpation technique to screen for hip dysplasia that can be completed during a puppy’s wellness exam. This palpation technique, called the Ortolani Sign, tests for laxity of the hip joint. Light sedation may be required to relax the muscles around the hip (and to better control a wiggly puppy!).
A positive Ortolani Sign indicates the presence of hip dysplasia. However, some puppies with hip dysplasia may have a negative Ortolani Sign. The PennHIP method has been shown to be a more accurate screening tool for hip dysplasia in puppies as young as 4 months old.
Hip dysplasia in dogs treatment
There are two surgical options for puppies with hip laxity and two surgical options for dogs with hip dysplasia. Medical management is also an option for dogs who are unable to undergo surgery.
Hip dysplasia is a hereditary condition that is influenced by several environmental factors during a puppy’s growth period. These factors include nutrition, exercise, and growth rate. Photo by Picture Alliance Images / Getty Images
Puppies who have been diagnosed with hip laxity between 10 and 18 weeks of age may benefit from a surgical procedure called Juvenile Pubic Symphysiodesis (JPS). This simple procedure prematurely closes a growth plate in the bottom of the pelvis. Closing this growth plate causes the acetabulum to cup the head of the femur more as it grows over the next 4 to 6 months, minimizing joint laxity and the development of hip dysplasia. Puppies with hip laxity who are older than 18 weeks of age are not candidates for this procedure.
Puppies between 4½ and 10 months of age who have been diagnosed with hip dysplasia may benefit from a procedure called a double or triple pelvic osteotomy (DPO or TPO). In this surgical procedure, two or three cuts are made in the pelvis. Then the acetabulum is rotated so that it properly cups the head of the femur.
Only puppies with mild to moderate hip laxity qualify for the DPO or TPO procedure. Puppies with severe hip laxity, lameness, or evidence of arthritic changes to their hips on radiographs should not undergo a DPO or TPO.
Adult dogs with hip dysplasia have two surgical options to improve their quality of life and give them pain-free movement of their hips. These procedures are total hip replacement (THR) or femoral head osteotomy (FHO).
A total hip replacement involves replacing the femoral head and the acetabulum with metal and plastic implants. This is similar to the procedure that is done in humans. THR gives dogs with hip dysplasia the best possible chance to return to a normal and pain-free activity level.
The FHO procedure is the complete removal of the femoral head, or ball of the hip joint. No replacement ball is installed in the femur. Over the next few months after surgery, the dog’s body develops scar tissue around what remains of the hip joint to create a false joint. Removing the head of the femur eliminates the pain associated with the arthritic hip but does not allow for full range of motion of the hip joint. Dogs who undergo an FHO will be more comfortable and pain-free but will not be restored to their pre-arthritic activity level.
Medical management of hip dysplasia and the associated arthritis consists of light daily exercise, the use of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) and other medications to treat pain, cartilage protectant supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin, an omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid supplement, and physical therapy.
Dogs with hip dysplasia should not be allowed to become overweight. Being overweight increases the strain on a dog’s arthritic hip joints. Talk with your veterinarian about an appropriate medical management plan for your dog.
With appropriate intervention and management, dogs with hip dysplasia can lead a relatively normal life. Early intervention is the key to maintaining pain-free mobility and an active lifestyle.
Runts will often catch up to their siblings if they get a full share of mom’s milk, so most breeders keep a close eye on things to ensure no one is shoved away. Credit: Stefan Cristian Cioata | Getty Images
What is a runt puppy? By definition, the word “runt” refers to an animal who is smaller than average. Runt is also used to refer to the smallest pup in a litter, who may or may not be smaller than average size. It’s important to realize that, after birth, runt puppy development is usually normal.
Runt Puppy Development
If needed, breeders will supplement puppies who are not getting enough of mom’s milk, but it’s now recommended to be one of the bigger pups, allowing runts to get nourishment from the mother. Credit: Laures | Getty Images
While birth size is important, the smallest born pup usually catches up to his siblings and might even surpass them at adulthood. Why he was born as the smallest pup isn’t clear. It could be he was a day later in the fertilization process, or his placenta wasn’t providing as many nutrients as the other puppies were receiving. Still, with momma dog providing plenty of milk, the runt usually catches up in size.
Concerns with a runt puppy include making sure he gets his fair share at the milk bar and doesn’t get shoved out of the way by his bigger siblings. Previously, people would supplement the runt, but current recommendations are to allow the runt separate feeding times so he can get his fill of the mom’s nutritious milk, supplementing one of the bigger pups instead, if necessary.
Runt of the Litter Health Problems
Don’t believe old wives’ tales about runt of the litter health problems. Being born smaller does not necessarily mean the puppy has or will have health problems. What matters is how the runt develops.
Puppies who do not develop and remain smaller than the rest of the litter may have health problems. Common problems that can cause a pup to lag behind include heart defects, a cleft palate, and gastrointestinal problems such as a liver shunt or blocked anus. Any organ defect may contribute to small size and potential illness or death.
If the runt puppy does not make up for this smaller size fairly quickly, have him evaluated by a veterinarian. You can detect a cleft palate yourself and sometimes you can “feel” a serious heart murmur right through the chest, but you still need veterinary documentation and direction.
Runt Puppy Personality
If your pup checks out as healthy but is just small, you’re good to go. Runt of the litter personalities are usually very positive. Runt puppies often get handled more and loved on more, so they are usually well socialized and happy. They still need to learn boundaries, however, so don’t spoil them. Let their dam handle interactions if she is a good mother.
Frequent sneezing and rhinitis (inflammation of the nasal tissues) are often symptoms of nasal polyps in a dog. Credit: Supalak Kosiyakue/EyeEm | Getty Images
Nasal polyps in dogs are growths that often develop due to chronic rhinitis, which is inflammation of the lining of the nose. These pink growths consist of fluid and connective tissue. Although nasal polyps are not common in dogs, compared to cats, male dogs have a slightly higher risk.
Symptoms of Polyps
A pinkish growth in the moist tissues of the nose/throat that may not be visible, except possibly near the nostrils
Discharge from one or both nostrils (may be bloody)
Increased sneezing
Obstructed, difficult, or noisy breathing
Dogs tend to have a single polyp but can have more than one. Diagnosis is generally done via endoscopy/rhinoscopy or radiographs. A CT gives a clear diagnosis but is not always needed.
Causes of Nasal Polyps
Exposure to environmental irritants, such as cigarette smoke and air pollution
Genetic predisposition
Chronic inflammation to the nasal tissues (rhinitis)
Canine nasal polyps tend to be benign, or noncancerous. However, dog nasal polyps frequently occur with nasal carcinoma, according to a study from the University of Pennsylvania published November 2019 in Veterinary Pathology.
Treatment
Treatment is most successful with surgery. Endoscopic debulking, which is removing as much of the tumor as possible, possibly with a laser, is an option. A biopsy should be done on the tissue. Radiation has been used for a few cases. Medical treatment is generally steroids, but that’s not especially effective, compared to debulking (see study published July 2021 in The Canadian Veterinary Journal).
Recurrence is possible with any treatment and more likely if your dog has multiple polyps.
Warning: Natural Treatments for Nasal Polyps
There is currently no safe, effective natural treatment for nasal polyps in dogs. In humans, various essential oils have been tried but success is varied. Some of these oils can be toxic to dogs, so it’s best to avoid them.
It’s unlikely this pretty Husky knows that the soybean field he’s in is one of many in the United States, the world’s largest soybean producer. Credit: Perytskyy | Getty Images
Seeing soy in a dog food ingredient list may not sound like something a dog would like to eat. Indeed, ingredients like soybean meal, soy protein concentrate, soy protein isolate, and soybean oil may make you raise an eyebrow. But before you start searching pet-food shelves for soy-free dog food, let’s talk about what purpose soy serves in dog food. It’s a big one.
Soy Complements Animal Protein
To say that dogs have a protein requirement is misleading. Truthfully, dogs have amino acid requirements, which are the building blocks of proteins. Of the 20 amino acids, 10 are essential in dogs, meaning dogs cannot produce or synthesize high enough quantities of them to meet their biological requirement. They must instead obtain these amino acids from their diet.
Each protein source, whether plant or animal, has a different amino acid profile, with some levels of amino acids being higher than others. Proteins also vary in bioavailability, with some protein sources being utilized more efficiently than others. The term “limiting amino acids” refers to essential amino acids that are naturally in short supply but utilized in the highest quantities. In dogs, those amino acids include methionine and lysine.
That is where soy products come in. Soy is very high in lysine and complements animal protein sources very well. While raw soybeans do contain anti-nutritional factors that can negatively impact digestion, the soy products commonly used in commercial pet foods have had many of those components removed.
Soy That’s Good for Dogs
Obviously, soy that is used in dog foods should be included in a form that is easy to digest and benefits the dog’s health. These types of soy include:
Soy protein concentrate. This is soybean meal that has gone through additional processing to further isolate the protein and contains much lower levels of oligosaccharides, decreasing its impact on digestibility and stool quality. This process results in a nutrient-dense, highly digestible ingredient.
Soy protein isolate. This type of soybean protein contains none of the carbohydrates or fiber found in soybean meal. This ingredient is the most concentrated source of soy protein and is highly digestible by dogs.
Soybean oil. As the name implies, soybean oil is the extracted fat from the whole soybean. Soybean oil provides energy and is a good source of the essential omega-6 fatty acid, linoleic acid.
The form of soy that most dog foods limit or avoid is soybean meal, which is the defatted flakes of soybeans. Soybean meal is used as a protein source as well as a source of energy. Of the soy ingredients used, this ingredient has the highest number of oligosaccharides, a type of carbohydrate that is not digested by dogs. The presence of oligosaccharides can negatively impact stool quality and increase flatulence. Because of this, soybean meal in dog food is limited.
From a nutritional standpoint, soy can provide a good source of digestible amino acids for pets. While some dogs may have sensitivities or allergies to soy products and should opt for soy-free dog food and treats, for many others, it is a viable ingredient.
Deciding when to switch from puppy foods rests heavily on when the dog will reach maturity. Small dogs stop growing at an earlier age than large dogs. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images
Proper nutrition is vital for puppies, and puppy food has been specially formulated to meet all the nutritional needs of a growing, developing dog. But when should you stop feeding puppy food and make a switch to adult dog food? The short answer is it depends on your puppy.
Dogs are the most diverse species of land mammal, with weights that range from under 1 pound for some of the smallest breeds to over 150 pounds for several of the giant breeds. Because of this great variation, the amount of time it takes for a dog to reach maturity depends primarily on their expected adult size.
When the Dog Stops Growing
Small-breed dogs mature more quickly than the larger breeds and, therefore, do not need to stay on a diet designed for growth and development—a puppy food—as long. The general rule of thumb is that a dog can be transitioned to adult dog food once they are mature, or done growing, and this typically is around the 1-year mark for most small- and medium-sized dogs. For large- and giant-breed dogs, this benchmark is pushed back as these dogs may not finish growing until they are 2 years old.
All Life Stages Formulas
If you have reservations about whether your young dog is ready to transition directly to an adult maintenance formula food, you may want to consider switching to an “all life stages” formula instead. These complete and balanced diets are formulated to meet the AAFCO-defined nutritional requirements for puppies, adults, and pregnant/nursing mothers. That means your dog can stay on an all life stages formula throughout their adulthood as well as puppyhood. However, for dogs weighing over 70 pounds—these are the giant breeds—the AAFCO statement should say, “including growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult)” to keep your big dog happy and healthy.
Should your dog go vegan? Research is lacking. Can your dog go vegan? Yes, with the help of a nutritionist. Credit: Photoboyko | Getty Images
All dogs can be vegan, provided their nutritional needs are met. Dogs are omnivores, able to utilize nutrients from both meat and plant-based foods. Dogs require protein in their diet, but that protein can come from either meat or plants. And yes, dogs can digest carbs—it’s one of the key differences between dogs and modern wolves.
Research on Vegan Dogs
Overall, research on feeding a dog a vegan diet is limited. A study published in PLOS ONE in 2022 concluded that nutritionally sound vegan diets may be healthier than conventional or raw diets. Unfortunately, some of the study’s methods raised questions, such as the number and ages of the dogs studied. More work needs to be done.
A 2023 study from Veterinary Sciences determined there is little solid research about the impact of a vegan diet on a dog’s health, also citing small sample sizes. Still, said the researchers, there’s no evidence showing the vegan diet is bad on a dog’s health. This study recommended that if you want to feed vegan, you stick with a commercial vegan diet. We recommend that the food you choose is formulated to meet AAFCO nutritional recommendations.
Other nutritionists suggest sort of walking the line. Rather than going full vegan, include eggs, dairy, and/or fish in your dog’s diet.
And, for some dogs, vegan diets may help with some health issues. “For some dogs, such as those with food allergies, liver issues, and even some urinary stones, vegan diets can be considered therapeutic. There are some well-balanced commercial diet options available that have been helping the management of these issues for a long time,” said veterinary nutritionist Renee Streeter DVM, DACVIM, in an article in Cornell DogWatch.
It’s Not Easy to be Vegan
Feeding a dog a vegan diet is challenging. The diet must provide your dog with everything that she needs while feeding a vegan diet. Although there are commercial options—Natural Balance, Canidae, Addiction Foods, Halo, and more—many owners still prefer to make a homemade diet for their dogs. Homemade diets are notorious for nutrient deficiencies, including many recipes you find online, that can lead to health problems.
If you’re determined to feed your dog vegan, consult with a veterinary nutritionist to formulate a nutritionally balanced recipe or choose a commercial diet with an AAFCO statement on the label. In general, vegan diets are often lower in protein and amino acids than meat diets, and these nutrients are essential to good health. Nutritionists are skilled at being creative to meet the unique nutritional needs of dogs and can ensure that your dog is getting everything that he needs while still following your vegan preferences.
While yeast infection pictures of a dog’s ear may resemble what you’re seeing in your dog’s ears, the only true way to know what’s wrong with the ear is a veterinary examination. Credit: bymuratdeniz | Getty Images
Your dog naturally has yeast on her body, and it normally doesn’t cause trouble. The issue is when it grows out of control. Dog ears – especially floppy drop ears – are a perfect home for a variety of microbes including yeast. These ears are enclosed and warm, so all that is needed is a little moisture and/or irritation and an infection can be at hand.
Possible causes of yeast infections include:
Chronic moisture in the ear from lots of swimming or baths
Bacterial infection
Debris stuck in the ear
Damage to the ear drum
Allergies
A tumor or polyp in the ear canal
What Does a Yeast Infection Look Like on a Dog?
If you search for “yeast dog ear infection picture,” you’ll come up with a lot of photos of dogs with grimy-looking or reddish ears. Yeast infections do frequently cause a characteristic light brown, waxy exudate inside the ear, but appearance alone isn’t reliable. Bacterial infections in the ear can look similar, or there may be multiple issues occurring at the same time.
Besides that gross, waxy debris in your dog’s ears, other signs that you may notice include:
Scratching or rubbing at the ears
Ears sensitive to touch
A distinct odor, often compared to corn chips
Red, inflamed ears
Head tilt
Neurological signs such as stumbling, circling, and falling over in severe cases
Time to See the Vet
The only way to be sure that your dog’s troubles are caused by yeast is to have your veterinarian do an ear cytology, which involves swabbing the exudate in the ear and examining it under a microscope. This allows the veterinarian to see what infectious agents are present and prescribe the right medication to treat that problem.
If your dog is up to date on her wellness exams, your veterinarian may allow you to drop off an ear swab without bringing your dog in for an appointment. However, if the symptoms are severe, return after treatment, or don’t improve at all, your dog will need a physical exam, so the veterinarian can look inside the ear canal and check out the ear drum. This can be an important step, because some ear medications like the long-acting Claro can cause deafness if applied in an ear with a ruptured ear drum.
Plastic crates offer a cave-like comfort for many dogs, and some, like the Ruff Land shown here, can double as crash-tested travel crates and regular crates. Credit: Cindy Foley
A safe dog crate is a sturdy crate that fits your individual dog: his size, his temperament, his training, his environment, and then your needs.
A safe, comfortable crate is big enough for your dog to walk into, sit in, stand in, and turn around. Start by measuring your dog’s standing height, including his ears, and his length, including his tail, then add 2 to 4 inches to both to find the proper size.
Four Main Types of Dog Crates
Plastic crates: These durable dog crates are made of strong plastic, usually with a swinging, wire door in front and often with a handle on top for moving the crate. Except for the door, plastic crates have smooth surfaces to minimize the chance of an injury. Plastic crates are often not well-ventilated, however. Look for one with holes at least on both long sides. They’re good for travel and easy to clean but bulky and awkward to move, especially if you have a large dog. They’re also not all that pretty.
Wire crates: Easily cleaned, unrestricted view, well-ventilated. You can purchase heavy-duty wire crates, if needed, but otherwise wire crates are great for all dogs, especially escape artists. Look a crate with two latches on the doors, especially on larger crates. Some wire crates come with a divider for housing more than one dog and/or more than one door for convenience. Wire crates can eventually rust and can become difficult to put together and then unfold, especially if it’s folded and moved around frequently. As the crate becomes worn, watch for stray pieces of wire that have come apart and could cause injury and/or escape.
Wire crates are difficult for a dog to escape from when properly put together, but you still need to be sure all of the dog—including the ear—fits comfortable. In addition, many dogs would prefer a cover over their wire crate. Credit: Cindy Foley
Soft-sided crates: These crates are not the best choice for determined escape artists or dogs who are not properly trained and don’t settle into a crate. It doesn’t take a lot of effort to chew through the canvas or nylon fabric or push through zipper enclosures. These crates can be difficult to clean but are lightweight and portable, as they easily come apart and fold nicely. Soft crates are only suited for dogs who are crate-trained. These crates often come with a top opening that can be used for little dogs. A few brands have more than one door.
Wooden furniture crates: Wood crates are suited for crate-trained dogs who won’t chew the wood. They are usually house-only crates as they are heavy and don’t easily fold for transportation. These crates can be difficult to clean and tend to be expensive.
Clearly, the plastic and wire crates are the most durable and the most escape-proof. If you’re just training your dog, these are the best choices.
Soft-sided crates are most often selected by competitors and trainers who who take their dogs places and are looking for lightweight, easy-to-fold crates for well crate-trained dogs.
There are also crash-tested travel crates like the Variocage, Impact Crates, SleepyPod (for small dogs), and Ruff Land Kennels that are made to endure a car crash. These come in metal and plastic materials, and many can be custom made to your car space and dog ventilation needs. Some can double as a house or competition crate, but these products tend to be heavy.
Crates Dogs Like
When choosing a crate, give some thought to what your dog likes. Some dogs prefer a wire crate with no covering so he can see everything going on around him. Others seem to feel like they’re on display and aren’t comfortable.
Most dogs like the cave-like feeling naturally offered by a plastic crate or soft-cover crate. Dogs who need a wire crate due to their Houdini-like abilities can get the same cave feeling by purchasing a crate cover or simply placing a cotton sheet or lightweight blanket or throw over the crate. Dogs who bark in wire crates are often quieted by the addition of a cover.
Any crate can have safety issues, depending on your dog. He can get a leg stuck in metal if the crate is not properly put together and sized to the dog; he can chew through wood; and he can pretty easily destroy a soft-sided crate.
Remember that a dog’s crate is a safe, temporary haven for him to eat, relax, or remain confined when necessary. A crate should not be a punishment area or a permanent prison.
All crates need a pad or thick towel on the floor for comfort. Chew-resistant crate beds are available, if you suspect your dog may be destructive. A stuffed Kong toy can keep your dog occupied. If your dog is left in his crate for any length of time, you must provide water as well.
While we believe all dogs should be crate-trained due to the possibility of emergencies, there are dogs that simply won’t relax in a crate. For these dogs, we recommend crate alternatives, as discussed in our article “Creative Confinement: Dog Crate Alternatives.”
Adorable, no? Actually, NO! This dog’s life is being endangered in several ways. She can be hit by debris on the road, be thrown out of the car in an accident (or even just when the car needs to swerve to avoid a road hazard), she might get excited about something she see and jump from the car to her death, or she can be seriously injured by the car’s airbag if it deploys in a crash. Photo by Francisco Umaña / EyeEm, Getty Images
Most of us love taking our dogs places. And this usually means taking them with us in our car, truck, or SUV. But improper car safety can turn an innocent trip into life-altering ride. Both human and canine passengers need to practice proper car safety. Emergency veterinarians are all too familiar with dogs that suffer injuries from improper car safety. This includes riding in the driver’s lap, riding with their head out the window, or riding without proper restraint inside the vehicle.
Airbags Can Kill Dogs: No Dogs On Laps
It is so tempting to put your small dog in your lap while you are driving. They are cute and they love to snuggle. And how much harm could come of having your six pound Maltese or Chihuahua ride in your lap?
If you are in an accident, your airbag is likely going to deploy. The airbag is meant to protect you in a crash. If your small dog is riding in your lap when the airbag deploys, the force of the airbag can significantly harm your small dog. Fractures and spinal cord trauma resulting in paralysis are common injuries in small dogs that have been impacted by an airbag.
Secure Your Dog With Safety Belts or Car Carriers
Car safety harnesses are built with a different design than walking harnesses. They are stronger and generally have wide, padded straps and a broad chest-plate, where the dog will take most of the impact if the car stops suddenly or is in an accident. They not only keep your dog safe in an accident, they keep him in one spot in the car, which helps prevent him from distracting you while driving. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Unrestrained dogs can also become projectiles in a car accident. Head trauma from being thrown into the windshield is common. Another common scenario seen by emergency veterinarians is small dogs launched out the driver’s side window like a catapult during an accident. This happens when the driver’s window is rolled down and the small dog is standing in the driver’s lap with their paws on the door. During an accident, the small dog can fly out the window and land on their head on the pavement below. This type of injury often results in traumatic brain injury or sudden death.
The safest way for a dog to ride in a vehicle is buckled into a dog car safety belt or harness or in a secured travel carrier designed for use in cars or planes. Read WDJ’s review of dog car safety harnesses from April 2021 here. Small dogs who are buckled into a safety harness may also ride in a car seat designed for dogs. WDJ has a review of small-dog car seats from the May 2021 issue here.
Prevent Injuries From Open, Unprotected Windows
Large dogs often ride in the back seat away from air bags but can still become injured due to an open window. Dogs who ride with their heads out the window are more prone to eye and/or ear injuries caused by flying debris. Another common injury occurs when unrestrained dogs jump out the window of a moving vehicle. These dogs can fracture a limb when they land on the pavement. Emergency veterinarians have also seen cases where an owner accidentally backed over their own dog after the dog jumped out the rear window!
Installing a dog car window screen or guard on each rear window of your vehicle can help protect your pooch when the windows are rolled down. Wire mesh panels made from welded steel that are custom designed to fit your vehicle’s rear windows are available from BreezeGuard. Screens made from polyester mesh fabric are available from The Skeeter Beater and from Luno. The screens from The Skeeter Beater attach to the window frame with sewn-in magnets. Luno’s screens fit over the top of your vehicle’s rear door frame like a glove. All of these screens and panels allow for normal operation of your vehicle’s windows when installed.
Accidents can happen when we least expect it. Don’t let improper car safety ruin your outing!
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I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
