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Sniffspot: A Great Alternative to Dog Parks

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dog running in dog park
Paws playing in his usual 100MPH fashion at the “bad-dog dog park,” with weedy footing and the “bring your own dog water” requirement, which, fortunately for Paws, kept attendance light for many years.

When off-leash dog parks first began to be a “thing” a couple of decades ago, I was thrilled. At the time, I lived in a city of about 70,000, and the presence of large, securely fenced areas for dogs to run off-leash was a huge benefit to me when I boarded untrained dogs who needed a ton of exercise. Twenty-plus years ago, there weren’t yet crowds of people and tons of reactive dogs at the park; at most, I’d tend to see 10 to 20 dogs in the several-acre park – soured only once or twice a year, say, by a serious dog fight or scary interaction between reactive dogs.

There was one really nice park, with sandy soil, faucets for water, double “airlock” gates, and a separate area for small dogs; and a smaller space at the end of town that had single gates, no water, and weedy, rough footing. When I had a social butterfly of an energetic dog staying with me, I’d of course go to the nice dog park. When I was caring for a rowdy adolescent dog who was reactive or had poor social skills, I’d drive farther to take him to what I called the “bad-dog dog park” – I only ever saw other people who also had reactive or flat-out dog-aggressive dogs there. We could recognize each other by our over-alert, defensive behavior: our rush to leash our dogs and leave if anyone else arrived.

I actually came to appreciate the bad-dog dog park much more than the nice dog park, for the simple reason that hardly anyone went there, and I could almost always find it empty for at least 20 or 30 minutes to allow whatever reactive dog I happened to be caring for to burn off some serious steam – chasing balls or Frisbees, and playing vigorous, growly games of tug – without putting any other dogs at risk, or undermining work I was doing with those dogs to teach them not to become reactive to other dogs.

Paws, a yellow Labrador who belonged to a fellow editor friend, was one dog who I regularly brought to the bad-dog dog park. I often boarded Paws when his family went on vacation or just out of town for the weekend, and sometimes provided daycare for him when his family was particularly busy. Paws didn’t have an aggressive bone in his body, but he had been somewhat deprived of social opportunities when he was a puppy, and he had the rudest body language of any dog I knew. He was so excited to meet other dogs that, if given an opportunity, would fly toward the other dog at 100 miles per hour, slamming into them half the time because he didn’t turn on the afterburners soon enough. When a dog would understandably take exception to being slammed into at top speed, or would feel that it was necessary to slow Paws’ roll by growling or snapping at him, his excitement (arousal) level would be so high, that he’d often react with an honestly scared, defensive growl or snap back – and a brief scuffle might quickly ensue.

If, by some miracle, the other dog was friendly and confident enough to burst into a running, chasing, or wrestling game when Paws came in like a runaway freight train, there was no happier dog than Paws; that was his sincere wish. But meeting a large, strong, confident, happy playmate was rare; Paws hardly ever met one of those. That’s why I often made the trek with him to run and play at the weedy, crappy park that we usually had to ourselves.

Eventually, though, dog parks became so popular, that even the remote, scruffy, waterless dog park became nearly constantly populated with other social, friendly dogs – meaning that they were no longer appropriate places that I could bring Paws or other reactive dogs to. And around that time, I moved away from the San Francisco Bay Area.

Today, I have my own two-acre, securely fenced “dog park” of sorts. There are lots of places I can take my friendly, social dogs for off-leash hikes, because we practice snappy recalls constantly. However, when I’m caring for a dog (a friend’s dog, or a foster) whose recall is not yet reliable and they need exercise, I have enough fenced space to throw balls (even with a Chuckit!) and run a dog enough to get them tired. Buying a property like this, and spending thousands to have its perimeter fencing completed, was a long-time goal for me and I’m so happy to have it.

A company founded to connect dog people

What are people to do if they need (but lack) a safely fenced area to exercise their dogs, but have a dog-reactive dog – or just a dog who is afraid of or particularly vulnerable to other dogs? There is a company that has stepped up to help connect people like me, who have safe and private places for dogs to play, with people who need – and would pay to reserve time in – such a space! Sniffspot is a company that links people who have space for dogs to play with people whose dogs need places to play. It’s kind of like AirBNB for private dog parks.

sniffspot
Sniffspot’s home page contains the most vital and inviting information dog owners need to start engaging with the site: There are private, rentable places that would suit your dog nearby!

People who have space that they’d like to make available (for a fee) to other dogs owners can sign up to be Sniffspot hosts. An app makes it possible for people to reserve and rent the space in half-hour increments. The software ensures that the rental is private – no other users will be present at the same time. Sniffspot collects payments from the users (from $5 to $15 per hour, per dog) and distributes the payments to the hosts at the end of each month. The company also requires that users submit vaccination records and attest that the dogs have flea/parasite prevention on board, and provides $2 million of liability insurance and $5,000 of damage protection to the hosts.

Hosts are asked to answer a long list of questions about their property: its size, terrain, fencing, proximity to dogs or other animals, etc. They also submit photos of the amenities offered; between the property descriptions and photos, users can get a good idea of whether the space will suit their dogs. Hosts can make their property available for as little or as much time on as many days as they want, but all rentals are private, to prevent unwanted interactions (users can rent some properties for private playgroups). I might consider signing up to be a host at some point.

Our dog-training contributors often recommend that owners of reactive dogs, or dogs who are selective about their play partners, look for securely fenced places to take their dogs to run or play where there are no other dogs. We sometimes hear the complaint that such places are difficult to find, but now we have an answer to that grievance: Sniffspot is the perfect way to find places like this – not a “unicorn” request after all.

Help! My Dog is Peeing in the House!

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Guilty dog peed in the wrong place
Never scold or punish a dog for urinating in the house – especially when the dog has been reliably housetrained until now. When you finally detmine the medical cause for the apparent regression in training, you will feel awful! Photo by Capuski, Getty Images

Contrary to popular belief, dogs are not capable of being spiteful. They do not pee in the house to hurt or annoy us. Previously potty trained dogs that have suddenly started urinating in the house are sending out a cry for help; they are having an issue we need to identify and address.

The problem that causes a dog to regress in housetraining typically falls into one of two categories: behavioral or medical. But sometimes there is more than one reason for house soiling; it may be a combination of both medical and behavioral problems.

Clues about the cause for a breakdown in housetraining

Take a look at how much water your dog is drinking and the size of the urine puddle they are leaving on your floor. If your dog is drinking more water and peeing a lot, these could be signs of kidney disease, diabetes, or Cushings disease.

If the urine puddles are small or you notice blood in the urine, then your dog may have a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, or a tumor of the urinary system. These dogs may also exhibit straining behavior when they urinate and will urinate more often.

If your dog is urinating near the door they use to go outside and potty, they may be having a mobility issue. Arthritis and other causes of bone and joint pain can make it unbearable for a dog to go up and down the steps to the backyard.

If your dog is leaking urine while they are sleeping, then your dog may have a condition called urethral mechanism sphincter incompetence, also known as spay incontinence. Although this condition is primarily seen in spayed female dogs, it is also rarely seen in neutered male dogs.

Canine cognitive dysfunction can cause a dog to forget his potty training. This is one of those instances where a medical issue causes a behavioral problem.

Behavioral problems that lead to house soiling include moving to a new home, a change in the dog’s daily schedule or routine, and separation anxiety. Medical problems should be investigated and ruled out before concluding that your dog’s house soiling is due to a behavioral issue.

First things first: Get a medical checkup

If your previously potty trained dog is now urinating in the house, schedule your dog for a veterinary checkup. Your veterinarian will need test results – including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, and thyroid test – as well as a urinalysis and blood pressure measurement in order to help solve the mystery. She may also recommend an abdominal ultrasound to examine the bladder and other urinary structures.

Once the underlying problem has been identified, your veterinarian will work with you to develop a plan to get your dog back outside to do his business!

Eight Rules for Playing Tug of War With Your Dog

Man playing tug of war with dog in park
Most dogs enjoy tug so much that many trainers use the game as a reward for accurately performing behaviors on cue. Photo by Morsa Images, Getty Images

Commonly called “Tug of War,” I prefer calling this wonderful game “Tug of Peace.” Once frowned upon as an activity that would reinforce aggression and other inappropriate behaviors – or be woefully inaccurately described as “dominance” – today’s educated dog training and behavior professionals recognize its great value for behavior goals such as exercise, impulse control, and confidence building. The caveat: The game must be taught and played properly in order to keep dogs and humans safe.

Rules for Playing Tug of War With a Dog Safely

  1. Only tug sideways. Vigorous up-and-down tugging can injure your dog’s spine.
  2. Tug gently for puppies and senior dogs. Healthy adult dogs can engage in vigorous tugging, but pups and seniors could be injured by too much tug-intensity.
  3. Teach your dog to wait politely until invited to tug. Say “Wait,” then hold up the tug toy. If she jumps for it, say, “Oops!” and hide the toy behind your back. Repeat until you can hold up the toy and she doesn’t try to grab it. Then you can say, “Take it!” and push the toy toward her.
  4. Teach your dog to give you the toy when you ask for it – then play again!
  5. If your dog is already an aroused tugger – jumping on you, or nipping/grabbing the toy – stand on the other side of a baby gate or inside an exercise pen to play Tug.
  6. Children only play Tug (under direct supervision!) with a dog who knows and respects the rules.
  7. Your dog can play-growl during tug. You should be able to tell that this is playful by analyzing the rest of her body language: playful dogs have wagging tails and a loose, wiggly body. If she growls in an intense way, with hard eye contact, a stiff tail or body, grabs at the toy with a hard mouth and gets your hand, or moves toward you aggressively, Tug is not a good game for her. If you can’t tell whether she’s resource-guarding or playing, ask a force-free professional for help!
  8. Don’t let anyone Tug with your dog who won’t follow your rules.

Tug, Yes Please!

Not all dogs enjoy tugging, but if your does, go for it! Play safely, enjoy, and if anyone tries to tell you it will make your dog dominant, politely walk away.

Should You Pet That Dog?

Stroking Dog
Watch how a dog responds when you offer to pet her. If she leans away (or moves away), she isn’t wild about what you’re offering. But if she leans in, or positions herself under your hands, she’s inviting you to pet her some more! Photo by Catherine Falls Commercial, Getty Images

Humans who love dogs typically love physical contact with dogs – petting, scratching, and cuddling. Recent studies even tout the health benefits of our canine-human interactions. But be aware that not all of our dogs love it as much as we do. Fortunately, there are ways to increase most dogs’ enjoyment of petting.

Where to Pet a Dog

Where should you pet a dog? That’s easy – where she likes it! But how do you know? Some dogs will tell you by backing up to invite a butt-scratch or nudging a nose under your hand for a head-rub. Others aren’t so obvious, in which case you can do “consent testing” to see what might be appreciated. Scratch the dog behind his ear, and then stop. Massage his shoulders briefly, and stop. If the dog stays close or even leans into you, he’s asking for more. If he moves away, he’s saying you didn’t hit the spot. Take a brief break, then invite him back and try a different petting location. (See: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/training/how-to-communicate-with-your-dog/ )

How To Pet a Dog

Ideally, petting is relaxing for both canine and human. Slow petting with gentle pressure is the best way to accomplish relaxation. Deeper massage can also be good, or soft scratching behind ears, on the chest, or on the hindquarters. Your dog will tell you. If she rests her head on your lap, closes her eyes, and shows other signs of peaceful enjoyment, you’re doing it! If you want to pet a dog you don’t know, ask the owner, and/or let the dog approach you for contact rather than invading his space.

How NOT to pet a dog – and why you should not pat them on the head

I cringe when I see someone vigorously patting a dog on the head or thumping their sides. Newsflash: Most dogs do not like to be patted on the head!! Think about it. How would you like it if someone came up to you and started bonking the top of your skull? A few dogs might actually like it, some dogs will tolerate it, and others will flat out bite you if you reach to pat their heads. And thumping is anything but relaxing. So just don’t.

Most dogs do enjoy some form of physical contact with humans. Let your dog tell you what she likes. Then do it.

How to Prevent Kennel Cough

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dogs meeting on leash
Trainers don’t like allowing dogs to greet each other on leash for behavioral reasons, but veterinarians don’t like this practice because it’s a great opportunity for dogs to spread any of the infectious causes of kennel cough. Photo by Isabel Alcalá, Getty Images

Canine kennel cough is an infection of the upper respiratory tract, specifically the nose, eyes, throat, and trachea. It is also known as infectious tracheobronchitis (ITB) or Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease Complex (CIRDC) – and it’s as ubiquitous in dogs as the common cold in humans. In fact, kennel cough is spread among dogs much the same way that upper respiratory illnesses are transmitted among people. Fortunately, there are more vaccinations that can prevent kennel cough (or reduce the severity of the illness) in dogs than there are vaccines that can prevent colds in humans!

Causes of kennel cough

There are several bacteria and viruses that are responsible for kennel cough. A dog may be infected with only one of these organisms but often have a co-infection of two or more pathogens.

Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacteria that can cause kennel cough. It can either be the sole agent of a dog’s illness or it can cause infection secondary to a virus.

Mycoplasma is a bacteria that exists naturally in the respiratory tract of most dogs. But in the presence of another primary agent of kennel cough (like B. bronchiseptica or a virus), it may contribute to a dog’s clinical signs.

There are also several viruses that can cause kennel cough. These include canine adenovirus-2 (CAV-2), canine parainfluenza virus (CPiV), canine herpesvirus (CHV), and canine distemper virus (CDV). Canine coronavirus can also cause kennel cough but has no relation to the coronavirus that causes COVID-19 in people. The canine influenza viruses H3N2 and H3N8 have also been implicated in cases of kennel cough but are not the same as the influenza viruses that cause seasonal flu in people.

boogernose
The viral or bacterial agents that cause kennel cough are spread when a sick dog sneezes, coughs, or rubs his nose on his bed, kennel wall, or human’s clothes. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Once a dog is ill with one of the primary agents of kennel cough, they can develop a secondary infection with one of the other primary agents or with an opportunistic bacteria. These opportunistic bacteria include Pseduomonas, Pasteurella, or the coliform class of bacteria.

Kennel cough is spread by close contact with infected dogs and their respiratory secretions. Respiratory secretions include aerosolized droplets from sneezing or coughing and saliva or nose and eye discharge that is left on bowls, blankets, floors, walls, and people’s clothes. It can be easily spread between dogs that attend doggie daycare, go to dog parks, or go to the groomer or attend training classes.

Just like with humans and the common cold, there is a period of time where dogs may be shedding one of the organisms responsible for kennel cough but are not yet showing signs of illness. This is called the incubation period. The incubation period varies by organism and can be as short as two days and as long as 14 days.

Vaccinating against kennel cough is important

One of the best ways to minimize the risk of contracting kennel cough is to ensure that your dog is properly vaccinated. Vaccines are available for B. bronchiseptica, CAV-2, CPiV, CDV, and both canine influenza strains.

The vaccine for B. bronchiseptica is available in three forms: an injectable form as well as intranasal and oral forms. The intranasal form is available for just B. bronchiseptica or is combined with the vaccine for CPiV. This vaccine is given once initially and then is boostered annually.

The vaccines for CDV and CAV-2 are combined with the vaccine for canine parvovirus. This vaccine is commonly known as the DAP vaccine (for distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus). There is a version of this vaccine that includes CPiV. This combination vaccine is given every two to four weeks to puppies as young as six weeks old until they are sixteen weeks of age. It is boostered one year after the last puppy dose and then every three years after that.

The canine influenza vaccine provides some protection against both strains that have been identified in the United States. This vaccine is given initially as a two-dose series two to four weeks apart and then boostered annually.

It is important to remember that no vaccine is 100% effective. It is still possible to develop kennel cough even when fully vaccinated. If your dog’s infection is being caused by an organism for which they are vaccinated, then their illness will likely be milder and their recovery time should be shorter.

Other kennel cough prevention strategies

Unfortunately, neither we nor our dogs can live in a bubble to protect us from contracting respiratory illnesses. But there are some basic steps we can take to prevent the spread of kennel cough.

Talk to your doggie daycare provider about their infectious disease prevention protocols. Most reputable daycare providers have a documented cleaning strategy that is executed multiple times a day with periodic deep cleanings that are completed at least once a week. These providers also require proof of vaccination for each attendee. They should inquire with each dog parent about any recent coughing or sneezing before admitting a dog to the facility for the day.

You can also be proactive when setting up doggie play dates for your pooch. Ask each dog’s owner about their dog’s vaccination status and if their dog or any other dog in the family is or has been recently ill. Organisms that cause kennel cough can be shed in a dog’s respiratory secretions for up to 14 days after their clinical signs resolve. If there is any doubt about another dog’s health status, you have the power to protect your dog and reschedule the play date!

When it comes to dog parks – well, there is no way to know whether all of the dogs who have been brought to the park have been vaccinated or kept from the park when potentially shedding a virus or bacterial cause of kennel cough.

If your dog frequents the groomer, pick a facility that has a documented cleaning protocol for tables, cages, and grooming tools. You can also minimize your dog’s exposure to potential pathogens by picking up your dog from the grooming facility as soon as their spa treatment is complete.

During the warmer months, dog-friendly shopkeepers set bowls of water outside their shops to help keep our dogs hydrated on warm days. While this is a super nice gesture, these bowls provide a potential way to spread organisms that cause kennel cough in our dogs. Bring your own dog bowl and water and offer water to your pooch often while you are out on the town.

We cannot completely prevent all the potential causes of kennel cough – but we can minimize their risk of exposure to pathogens and the severity of their illness should they become ill. By being a proactive dog parent, you have the power to keep your dog safe and healthy!

Can You Cut Dog Whiskers?

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Cavalier King Charles Spaniel looking at the camera
The long, white whiskers on this pretty Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will help this dog navigate in poorly lit places. Credit: Victoriaarak | Getty Images

You can cut a dog’s whiskers, and they will grow back. The bigger question is, why do you need to cut your dog’s whiskers?

What Are Whiskers For?

Whiskers give the dog important sensory and protective information. Whiskers detect motion and are sensitive to air currents. If you touch his whiskers, your dog will often reflexively blink because of the information the whisker transmitted to the brain: Something is near the face, protect the eye! Whiskers serve an important sensory and protective function for your dog.

Dogs use whiskers to navigate in the dark. Whiskers help keep blind dogs, or dogs with another visual impairment, from running into objects. Whiskers work so well that many blind dogs can explore new environments so easily that a person watching could be fooled into thinking the blind dog can see.

What Are Whiskers?

Whiskers, also known as vibrissae, are specialized hairs that grow on the upper lip, chin, and above the eyes. Whiskers are present in many mammals, including dogs. Whiskers arise from specialized follicles in the skin and are thicker and stiffer than the normal coat. If the hair on your dog’s face is left to grow naturally, the whiskers often grow longer than the rest of the facial hair.

Cutting Dog Whiskers

Dogs have whiskers, but sometimes they are trimmed or clipped. This is often because in order to keep the fur on the face short, they are often clipped off with the rest of the facial fur, especially in breeds that grow longer facial hair, such as Poodles and Schnauzers. This helps to keep the face tidy, making it is easier to remove food or tear stains. Sometimes the whiskers are trimmed on dogs who compete in conformation (the Westminster Kennel Club show is an example of this), the rationale being that the whisker-free face presents a clearer picture of the dog’s head silhouette. Trimmed whiskers do eventually grow back.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning in Dogs

Sandy coloured cockapoo lies in front of an open fire with his ball
If you’re worried about your dog and carbon monoxide poisoning, install carbon monoxide/CO detectors to protect you and your dog. Properly installed gas appliances that are well-maintained should not be a concern, but things can go wrong. CO detectors are critical for protection. Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

Carbon monoxide is just as deadly for your dog as it is for you. Don’t be fooled into thinking dogs can smell carbon monoxide and move away from it. Dogs cannot smell carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is odorless.

While there are reports of dogs refusing to go back into a home with carbon monoxide in it, it’s not because of the smell. It’s more likely those dogs are reacting to how awful they felt when they were inside versus how they feel outside in fresh air.

Signs and symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning in dogs include:

  • Behavioral changes (fear, aggression)
  • Drowsiness
  • Incoordination
  • Vomiting
  • Trouble breathing
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Rapid heartbeat
  • Bright red lips and gums

These signs will progress to collapse, seizures, coma, and death, if the exposure continues.

Get the Dog Outside

If you’re worried your dog may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning, GET HIM OUTSIDE! The treatment for carbon monoxide poisoning is oxygen. Oxygen will eventually displace the carbon monoxide, but it takes hours.

If your dog shows any of the signs described above, get to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Dogs with any of these symptoms will be hospitalized for pure 100% oxygen therapy (room air is only about 21% oxygen) and all necessary supportive measures.

Severity of Carbon Monoxide Exposure

Dogs without symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may only require tincture of time in fresh air, but for your dog’s sake, check with your veterinarian to be sure. If you and/or your veterinarian are not sure whether there has been carbon monoxide exposure, a blood test called carboxyhemoglobin level can be run on your dog to determine exposure.

Severely affected dogs who show a lack of alertness or are comatose sometimes survive with aggressive treatment, although the prognosis is guarded. Those that do survive may later develop neurologic signs. This can happen anywhere from a few days to a few weeks after the event. It is called delayed encephalopathy, and it happens because of damage to the brain. The most common signs are deafness and blindness, and they are usually permanent.

Take Precautions

For your dog’s sake and your own, get your home checked by a heating professional. Remember, carbon monoxide is a byproduct of combustion, as in gas furnace, car, stove. Get recommendations for reliable, accurate carbon monoxide detectors—the EPA reports not all CO detectors are the same—and install them.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is better prevented than treated. Never use a gas heater or grill in unventilated areas. Never house your dog in your garage in case of accidentally leaving the car engine on, which is happening with increasing frequency due to super-quiet hybrid engines. And finally, if you don’t have carbon monoxide detectors in your home, get them.

How Carbon Monoxide Poisons

How does carbon monoxide poisoning happen? Carbon monoxide displaces oxygen off hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying protein in bloodstream, and binds tightly to hemoglobin. This results in low oxygen levels in the blood (called hypoxemia), which results in low oxygen levels in the tissues (called hypoxia). No organs can function without oxygen.

Is Salmon Oil Good for Dogs?

Senior Gay Male Couple Playing with Their Dogs on the Beach
Older dogs can gain a great deal from salmon oil, including improved movement and cognition, helping them continue to lead active, fun lives.  Credit: Davids’Adventures Photos | Getty Images

Salmon oil is good for dogs and rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 benefits for dogs include:

In addition, fish oil can help dogs with heart and kidney problems, and DHA is believed to help with eye and brain development in puppies.

The Best Salmon Oil Products

Choose a salmon oil product for your dog that includes both omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) as ingredients.

The ideal fish oil supplement is from fresh-caught, wild, cold-water fish. You want a product that has been screened for contaminants, such as heavy metals, and comes from a manufacturer who uses sustainable fishing practices in making the product.

Since pet supplements are not FDA-regulated, choose brands with the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal to ensure that quality ingredients are used and that the contents match the label claims.

Salmon Oil Side Effects

Start with a salmon oil dose of about 25% of the recommended dose on the product label and gradually work your way up. Not all dogs will tolerate maximum doses.

Side effects include:

  • diarrhea
  • vomiting
  • chronic pancreatitis
  • weight gain

Dogs with clotting problems should probably avoid salmon oil. Drug interactions with other medications, such as NSAIDs, are possible, so always check with your veterinarian to see if salmon oil is appropriate for your dog, given his health history, current diet (which may already include omega-3 fatty acids), and medications.

All fish-oil products should be properly stored in a cool place, out of direct sunlight.

Recent News Report on Mixed-Breed Dog DNA Tests

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Otto's Wisdom Panel DNA Test

On March 4, CBC News (Canada’s publicly owned news and information service) ran a television and online report about an investigation of four companies that offer dog DNA tests that purport to identify the breeds in mixed-breed dogs. Within a day, practically everyone I know was posting links to the online report with comments like, “I knew those tests were bunk!”

In the past 15-plus years that they’ve been available, I’ve been skeptical of the ability of these commercial testing products myself. However, I will say that, in my experience – and that of the CBC report – two companies in particular seem to provide results that are at least in the ballpark of possibility for the most common dog breeds found in North America. And one company seems to have a pretty good handle on identifying the origin of mixed breed dogs from other parts of the world. My response to the report, though, takes in a few details that many commenters seemed to miss.

The CBC sent DNA samples for four individuals to four different companies that offer mixed-breed dog DNA tests: Accu-Metrics, DNA My Dog, Embark, and Wisdom Panel. But they picked odd (in my opinion) candidates to use for the tests: A human, a purebred Great Dane, a mixed-breed dog from Turkey, and a mixed-breed dog from Kuwait.

As far as the human sample was concerned: I was pleased to learn that Embark and Wisdom Panel immediately sussed out that no dog DNA was present in the sample. And was not terrifically surprised when Accu-Metrics and DNA My Dog returned various dog-breed mixes in their results for the human sample. (Before seeing this report, I had never heard of Accu-Metrics before, and, a long time ago, received similarly incredible results of a test from DNA My Dog.)

The latter two companies also failed to accurately identify the purebred Great Dane. Results from DNA MY Dog suggested the dog was mostly Great Dane, but also 10% -25% Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Accu-Metrics returned the breed that the CBC suggested on its submission form that the dog most resembled: a Chihuahua! I don’t see any need to further discuss any results – or ever recommend the services from – either of those two companies.

Both Embark and Wisdom Panel correctly identified the Great Dane as 100% Great Dane.

Mixed-Breed Dogs from Other Continents

I so wish that CBC had used mixed-breed dogs from North America as their last two “test dogs,” because there are likely to be very few representatives of the most common purebreds dogs on other continents in Embark’s and Wisdom Panel’s databases. The most common (or likely) mixed-breed dogs on the streets in Turkey and Kuwait are not likely to be the breeds that are most common (or likely candidates) mixed-breed dogs found in Canada or the U.S.

Wisdom Panel identified the breed mix for the Turkish dog as Segugio Italiano, Chihuahua, Anatolian Shepherd, German Shepherd, and Estrela Mountain Dog. Without information as to how common those dog breeds are found in Turkey, it’s impossible to know how accurate this might be. To its credit, Embark identified the breed mix of the same dog as 100% West Asian Village Dog – meaning they were able to pinpoint the mixed-breed dog’s geographical origins. I’d call that a home run!

Similarly, Embark identified the dog from Kuwait as 100% Arabian Village Dog – again, at least accurately identifying the dog’s geographical place of origin. (Kuwait is also located in West Asia, but also at the northern edge of Eastern Arabia.) Wisdom Panel identified the dog as being a mix of American Pit Bull Terrier, Chihuahua, German Shepherd, Segugio Italiano, and Xoloitzcuintle.

Comparing Embark and Wisdom Panel, the two leaders

I’m a little dubious about the idea that these two foreign-born dogs could share three breeds in their Wisdom Panel results (Chihuahua, German Shepherd, Segugio Italiano), so I’m rather more impressed with Embark’s performance here. However, I’d want to compare the results from these two companies on more prosaic mixed breed dogs from this continent before dismissing Wisdom Panel altogether. In our past comparisons, using my two mixed-breed dogs Otto and Woody, the results were pretty darn close.

Otto’s DNA Test Results:

Otto’s Embark DNA Test
Otto’s Wisdom Panel DNA Test

Woody’s DNA Test Results:

Woody’s Embark DNA Test
Woody’s Wisdom Panel DNA Test

Back when I was still fostering Boone, my 1-year-old adolescent dog, I ordered a DNA test kit from Wisdom Panel, and these were the results:

But I think I am going to go ahead and order a test kit from Embark, to compare these results. I have a feeling, based on the CBC report, that I might invest a little more confidence in Embark’s results, but I’ll let you know!

Food Aggression in Dogs

Three small friendly Jack Russell Terrier dogs eats without jealousy side by side at home
Just because resource guarding is a natural behavior doesn’t mean you or your other family members (including other dogs) have to live with an ever-present risk of being bitten. The first step to managing this food-related aggression is to not feed your dogs in a situation like the one above, which promotes guarding. Dogs should have a safe space to eat alone in peace. Photo by K_Thalhofer, Getty Images

Food aggression in dogs can be very scary. Indeed, it can be downright dangerous!

Food aggression is a subset of a larger behavior known as “resource guarding,” in which a dog behaves aggressively to maintain possession of valuable objects including food, toys, chew items, humans, and even favorite places (beds, crates, couches, rooms). Resource guarding, scary as it may be, is a natural, normal canine behavior – one that’s critically important for a wild dog’s survival. If canines in the wild don’t protect their valuable resources, they die.

Of course, your dog doesn’t have to protect his food supply in order to survive – but it’s up to you to manage his environment so he doesn’t feel like he has to! To prevent, reduce, and/or manage your dog’s food aggression, take these actions:

Feed your dog in a low-traffic, stress-free zone and leave her alone while she eats. She shouldn’t feel threatened by others (human or animal) invading her dining space.

Teach your dog that when you approach her food bowl she gets more good stuff. This is accomplished by walking past her as she eats – at a distance that doesn’t cause her stress – and tossing high-value treats (such as fresh, roasted chicken) to her as you pass by. When, after multiple repetitions of this, she grows very happy to see you approaching, you can gradually decrease the distance between you and her bowl as you pass by, until you can toss the treats right into her bowl without causing her any stress. (See “The ‘I Come in Peace’ Resource-Guarding Modification Protocol,” WDJ May 2020.)

Teach your dog a force-free “trade” behavior. Use this cue any time you want something that she has. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Trade,” February 2017.)

Dog-dog food aggression can worsen over time

Some dog friends communicate perfectly and politely about food they’d both like to have.  Ideally, if a dog is approached by another dog while eating, she would send polite canine social signals to leave her alone – such as pausing into a brief “freeze” while eating, giving him a hard stare, and he would back off. The behavior says, “Go away, this is my dinner!” The interloper says, “Oops, sorry!” and moves away. This is a best-case scenario: conflict resolved without escalation.

If the interloper is oblivious to or doesn’t understand the guarder’s signals and continues forward, the guarder may escalate to get her message across and protect her food; she may snarl, snap, and/or lunge. One hopes the interloper gets the message, offers appeasement behaviors, and moves away, and the guarder calms down and goes back to eating.

These two levels of “aggression” may not require any intervention or behavior change on your part – as long as the encounters don’t progress to the next levels.

Sometimes, the interloper may inappropriately take offense at the guarder’s “Go away!” message and bolt forward with a “How dare you, I really want that food!” response. The guarder may aggressively defend her meal and blood may be shed. And in the worst-case scenario, the guarder may launch across the room and proactively attack the other dog. She may also develop a very negative association with the  interloper’s approach and attack violently every time her bowl is approached. This could have a detrimental effect on the dogs’ relationship even when food isn’t present.

If you fail to manage your dogs’ mealtimes or address their conflicts over food, these misunderstandings may grow more common (and perhaps even more bloody).

Management rules

The first step toward preventing food-guarding aggression between dogs is management. A dog shouldn’t have to warn other dogs away from her food. The dogs should be fed at least 10 feet apart, and their owner should play “food police” during their meals so whomever gets done first can’t go bug the other/s. Better yet, feed dogs in separate rooms, in crates, or use baby gates or exercise pens to physically separate them during meals. Diligent management may be enough to prevent food aggression altercations.

Modifying aggression

It’s possible to modify your dog’s aggressive food-guarding behavior in the presence of other dogs, but there are at least two challenges to overcome. The first is that it can be difficult to manage the behavior of the other family dogs when the food-aggressive dog is eating. The second is that we usually use high-value treats to change a dog’s association with the presence of another dog – but this could increase the food-guarding response.

To address both of those challenges, you can try the “I Come in Peace” protocol mentioned above, but with your second dog on leash as you pass by and toss treats to the dog who guards. You’ll need to be sure to keep your leashed dog focused on you so he doesn’t go for the tossed treats as well. That would be a disaster! This works best if a second person handles the leashed dog and keeps him focused while you toss treats.

Alternatively, you could use Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT). For this, the guarding dog is eating on leash, with one person holding the leash as you approach with a second dog, also on leash. The instant you see tension in the guarding dog, you stop approaching and stand still, mentally marking that spot, and waiting until there’s any small decrease in the guarding dog’s tension. The moment you see that, you immediately turn and walk away with the second dog.

You repeat this multiple times until the guarding dog doesn’t show any tension when you reach the marked spot with the leashed dog. At that point, you start approaching the guarding dog just one step closer than before. You’re teaching your guarding dog that relaxing makes the other dog go away, so she no longer feels the need to be aggressive to protect her good stuff.

Of course, you’ll still need to manage future interactions so your approaching dog doesn’t blithely invade the eating dog’s space. CAT is a somewhat complex procedure, and you may need the assistance of a qualified force-free professional to properly implement it.

For more information on the CAT procedure, see “Constructional Aggression Treatment Can Improve Behavior,” December 2009.

It’s Not Always Easy

Managing a resource-guarding dog’s behavior and environment is simple – but not always easy – and vital for keeping peace in the household. Just remember that dogs have a right to keep their good stuff, and it’s your responsibility to make that happen without coercion or conflict.

What Not to Do About Food Aggression

Following the outdated and widely debunked “dominance theory,” some trainers encourage owners to engage in very inappropriate behaviors – such as taking food away from dogs without warning, or putting their hands in the dog’s bowl while the dog is eating – in a misguided attempt to prove to the dog that the human is the boss or “alpha.” Be aware that coercive or intrusive training approaches such as these usually exacerbate canine food and possession aggression. These actions can also create guarding behavior in dogs who might not otherwise guard!

Don’t ever do the following:

  • Mess with your dog while she’s eating. Don’t stick your hands in her food bowl, pet her, or repeatedly take the unfinished food bowl away. Wouldn’t it make you angry (or at least quite annoyed) if someone did that to you?
  • Forcibly take things from your dog’s mouth. This increases her resistance and makes her more likely to bite.
  • Allow others to invade your dog’s space while she’s eating. Whether it’s a human, dog, or other household animal companion (cat, rabbit, etc.), she’s entirely within her rights to tell them to leave her food alone!
  • If your behavior is appropriate around your dog and the resources that are valuble to her, she’ll be calm and comfortable with your presence, and the potential for aggressive guarding greatly decreases.

Diets for Small Dogs

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Cute Chihuahua dog near feeding bowl in room. Pet friendly hotel
Every dry food that’s labeled “for small breeds” will feature a smaller kibble size; that’s a given, to help dogs with smaller mouths and weaker jaws chew and swallow. More important, though, are label claims that address the specific nutritional needs of small dogs. Photo © Liudmila Chernetska, Getty Images

Small breed dogs are those who weigh 20 pounds or less. While the Association of American Feed Control Officials – the organization that develops the nutritional standards that define “complete and balanced” diets for dogs – does not have any nutrient recommendations specifically for small breed dogs, there may be some merit to feeding your little dog a diet specifically formulated for small breeds.

Small Dog Nutrition

To begin with, small dogs have slight, relatively weak jaws. That’s why small-dog-specific foods are made with smaller, lower-density kibbles that are easier for your pet to chew.

Small dogs have a higher mass-specific basal metabolic rate (BMR) compared to their large dog counterparts. This means that, per pound of body weight, small dogs burn more calories while at rest. In fact, a study found that Papillons have a mass-specific BMR that is more than 50% higher than that of Great Danes.1 Small dogs also show a trend of having a higher percentage of lean body mass than large dogs.2

Because of this, small dogs require diets that are calorically dense and high in digestible protein to help meet their increased energy requirements and maintain their lean muscle mass. The addition of L-carnitine to the diet also helps with lean body mass maintenance and helps to burn fat more efficiently.

One of the many health advantages that small dogs possess (relative to large dogs) is their long average lifespan. Their metabolism, combined with their age, can lead to high oxidative stress, which can have negative impacts on their immune health. Inclusion of antioxidants (such as vitamins E and C) in the diet can help alleviate some of this oxidative stress, reducing inflammation and boosting immunity.

With age also comes joint degradation, so providing chondroprotective agents (such as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, glucosamine, and chondroitin) can help keep our little canine companions bouncing through their senior years.

Pet food labels are required by law to be truthful. So look for small-breed-specific formulas that include claims on the packaging asserting these small-dog needs have been met by the formulation, such as: L-carnitine to support healthy weight, high in protein to support lean muscle mass, added antioxidants for immune support, etc. You can also look at the ingredients list for added L-carnitine and vitamin E.

Most important

Above all, keeping our small companions at an appropriate weight and body condition is vital for their health and overall well-being. Obese dogs, regardless of size, experience higher rates of cancer, osteoarthritis, and shorter average lifespans, so it is important to follow proper feeding guidelines and the advice of your veterinarian.

References:

  1. Speakman JR, Van Acker A, Harper EJ. “Age-Related Changes in the Metabolism and Body Composition of Three Dog Breeds and Their Relationship to Life Expectancy,” Aging Cell, 2003; 2:265-275.
  2. Middleton RP. “Small Dog Metabolism and Other Unique Characteristics.” Purina Institute, 2017; 41-44.

Dog Collars vs Harnesses

Three dogs leashed at street and looking at camera
When it comes to the gear that your dog wears in order to stay connected and communicating with you, his or her comfort should be the chief selection criteria. The product’s security is also important. Photo by Capuski / Getty Images

There are so many dogs collars and harnesses to choose from, and so much conflicting information comparing a dog collar vs harnesses! How do you know which is best for your puppy – or your adult dog? While the answer is “it depends,” here are some guidelines to help you choose the best gear for your canine companion.

Dog Collars vs Harnesses: Gear to dismiss from consideration

The easiest part of selecting collars or harnesses is determining which ones to dismiss. We disqualify from consideration any equipment that’s designed to cause pain or discomfort to your dog. This includes shock collars (marketed euphemistically as “e-collars”), prong and choke collars, and “no-pull” harnesses that tighten around your dog’s barrel. Don’t let anyone tell you that these aren’t aversive. They are; that’s how they control the dog, through pain.

We prefer to teach dogs how to behave on leash, rather than just inflict discomfort in order to suppress their pulling or other unwanted behavior.

Next, we recommend rejecting any equipment that your dog finds aversive, even if it isn’t designed or intended to be. If you use gear that your dog clearly hates, it will be difficult for her to happily learn and cooperate with you.

harness opener
We love the Perfect Fit Modular Fleece-Lined Harness. These are comprised of three separate components (two components for tiny dogs)– girth, front, and top – each of which is measured and ordered separately for a perfect fit! Available from cleanrun.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns

There are some products that most dogs dislike when initially introduced, such as head halters. Most dogs require a very slow, tactful introduction and considerable conditioning to regard these products as acceptable – and many owners find the counter-conditioning and desensitization process required to get their dogs to accept head halters (in particular) to be excruciatingly slow going. If your dog shows she hates her head halter, I’d recommend setting it aside.

Vibration collars are often marketed as aversive, but if you build a positive association for your dog with the vibration from the start, it can be used in a positive way. Owners of deaf dogs often use vibration collars to signal or cue their dogs for various behaviors, but a dog doesn’t have to be deaf for the collar to be used in this way. But again, if your dog shows you that she finds the vibration aversive, despite your efforts to counter-condition and desensitize her to it, it’s a no-go. (See “Vibration Collars: What You Should Know,” WDJ November 2019, for more information about using vibration collars in a positive way for cuing your dog.)

Most dogs are happy with a regular harness, and these are generally considered to be non-aversive. However, if your dog runs away from you when you pick up her harness she’s telling you she hates it; cross it off your list!

Gear we like

dog collar
A leash is clipped to both rings on Chinook & Co.’s breakaway safety collar, allowing it to be used as a regular walking collar. With the leash unclipped, the breakaway feature is enabled again. See breakawaycollar.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Every collar or harness has the potential to be aversive if improperly used, so even our approved training tools should be used correctly – no yanking, jerking, or hanging, please! In general, our favorite gear for walking dogs includes:

Generally, flat collars, properly fitted martingale collars, and front-and/or back-clip harnesses are our first tools of choice.

For dogs who don’t pull, flat collars and back-clip harnesses are perfect.

If your dog has learned to back out of her collar, martingale collars can be a lifesaver. Sometimes called “Greyhound collars,” martingale collars are ideal for dogs with very narrow skulls, as well as thick-necked dogs whose heads are smaller than their necks. These “limited slip” collars tighten with leash tension, but only to a certain point – just enough to prevent them from slipping over the dog’s head.

martingale collar
Martingale collars can tighten to prevent the dog from slipping free, but can’t tighten enough to choke the dog. Many of them have to be pulled over the dog’s head and then adjusted so they can no longer be pulled over the head. We prefer the models that have a quick-release buckle, which don’t require constant adjustments. Photo by Nancy Kerns

For dogs who pull, we like the newer generation of front-clip harnesses. These products don’t have straps that go across the shoulder and impede the dog’s movement. See “The Best Front Clip Harnesses,” April 2017, for our favorites. We find head halters and vibration collars to be acceptable for dogs who are comfortable with them.

We recommend breakaway collars for dogs who play and wrestle with a lot of mouth-to-neck biting. Alternatively, remove your dogs’ collars before they play – or when you leave them together unsupervised – to prevent potentially deadly choking accidents.

Choosing a collar for puppies requires the utmost of care. It should be obvious that aversive tools are off the table, but even flat collars have potential to significantly damage baby-soft tracheas if you have a puppy who pulls. Be extra careful with your baby dog to be sure you aren’t putting pressure on that tender throat; a harness is generally a better choice.

You Choose

There is no pat answer to the collar/harness question. Review the options, get some help (if needed) with the fit of the product you choose, watch to see how your dog responds to your choice – and make changes accordingly. And remember to train your dog, so pulling becomes less of an issue regardless of what equipment you choose. (See “Polite Leash Walking,” September 2021, and “No Need for Force: How to Stop Your Dog From Pulling on the Leash,” April 2022.)

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