Intestinal blockages (bowel obstructions) are not uncommon in dogs. Usually, the patients are young dogs, because they like to eat dumb stuff! As dogs mature they tend to outgrow this eat-anything behavior, but in the meantime, we must prevent ingestion of said dumb stuff by puppy-proofing our homes, using crates or exercise pens to contain young dogs when we are unable to watch them, keeping socks and underwear picked up and garbage cans out of reach, denying access to kids’ rooms strewn with toys, and so on.

It’s fairly easy to tell if a dog has a classic intestinal blockage: A previously happy, healthy 18-month-old dog suddenly starts vomiting everything he’s been fed. Initially, he’s still running around, playing, and happy to eat. But every time he eats, he vomits everything within a few hours.

For the first day, he may produce stool, but after a day or two of this, he will start looking like he isn’t feeling well. He will be less active and less interested in food and have decreased or no stool production. Abdominal pain may be expressed by a reluctance to lie down, posturing in a downward dog type of yoga pose, and whining or yelping when his abdomen is touched.

At the veterinarian’s, his bloodwork is all normal, but his x-rays show huge loops of gas-distended bowel. This classic case is a slam dunk – an easy diagnosis. Usually, with immediate surgical intervention, the happy, healthy dog will be back in no time.

Unfortunately, not all cases are as clear-cut as that. Diagnosing intestinal blockages can be challenging. Symptoms can be tough to interpret, especially with partial blockages. Partial blockages occur with slow-moving foreign material, like a sock or cloth that is trying to make its way through the intestines. Polyps, tumors, granulomas, and scar tissue can also lead to partial blockages.

Partial blockages tend to cause intermittent symptoms of vomiting, loss of appetite, straining to defecate, passage of small amounts of stool, abdominal pain, and lethargy. These symptoms may come and go, and can last for a week or more with slow-moving foreign material. Partial blockages due to slowly growing masses worsen over time. With full blockages, a big hint is that there is literally nothing coming out the back end. Not so with partial blockages.

Diagnosis of Intesintal Blockages

Interpreting symptoms of a blockage can be challenging, but ironically, it can be even more difficult to interpret the diagnostic x-rays. Many materials ingested by dogs do not show up on x-rays. Anything cloth or plastic can be difficult or impossible to see. Partial blockages don’t cause the classic gassy distention of the intestines that happens with full blockages. Your vet may recommend repeating the x-rays in 24 hours if there is a suspicion of partial or full obstruction. Looking for changes (or lack thereof) on x-rays can be informative.

Abdominal ultrasound is a useful tool when x-rays are not definitive. Foreign bodies and masses can usually be identified with this modality.

Barium swallows with serial x-rays is another diagnostic tool that can be used to diagnose intestinal foreign material and/or blockages, although this method has been largely replaced with the increasingly easy access to abdominal ultrasound. Barium studies require the dog to be repeatedly x-rayed over six to eight hours, during which a significant volume of liquid is administered to a vomiting dog, risking aspiration of barium into the lungs; abdominal ultrasound is obviously preferable.

If a definitive diagnosis cannot be made with certainty – but there is enough suspicion based on history, symptoms, and x-ray and/or ultrasound results – abdominal exploratory surgery will likely be recommended.

Surgery for Intestinal Blockage or Suspected Blockage

In an abdominal exploratory surgery, all the organs in the abdomen are fully examined, with the gastrointestinal tract being visualized and palpated from the stomach to the rectum. If foreign material is identified in the intestines, it will be removed. Some intestinal blockages require resection (removal) of a length of the intestine if the intestinal tissue has been compromised. Any masses identified may be removed if possible and biopsied.

If nothing abnormal is found, your surgeon will take biopsies of the stomach and intestines to see if some other cause for the symptoms can be identified.

Survival Rates for Intestinal Blockage Surgery

Survival rates are high for young dogs undergoing surgery for intestinal blockages if they are diagnosed in a timely fashion and operated on quickly.

If a blockage goes untreated for too long, the surgery will typically be more complex with serious post-operative complications more likely, making overall survival rates lower for these dogs. Survival rates are also generally lower for geriatric dogs, as cancerous tumors are sometimes the underlying cause for senior dogs, and their ability to heal and fight infection is lower.

Don’t Delay Veterinary Attention

Keep in mind that intestinal blockages are surgical emergencies. The sooner the problem is identified and corrected the better. With full blockages, dogs are generally going to experience significant pain and become seriously ill within a day or two. The pressure from the blockage compromises the blood flow to the intestines, resulting in devitalization of tissue. As the tissue dies, it leaks toxins into the abdomen and the bloodstream.

Without prompt surgery, the intestine will rupture and the dog will die from septic peritonitis. Survival rates for dogs with long-standing (more than two to three days) intestinal blockages are much lower than for those treated right away.

If vomiting is unusual for your dog, starts suddenly and happens repeatedly, don’t wait. If it’s a blockage, the sooner your dog has surgery the better. If a blockage is ruled out, your veterinarian can prescribe medications to make your vomiting dog feel better. It’s a win-win.

Case History: A Partial Intestinal Blockage

An otherwise healthy 5-year-old dog came into the veterinary clinic with a history of several days of intermittent vomiting and not feeling well. Initial x-rays were inconclusive, showing no obvious foreign material and no gas-distended bowel. He was treated for non-specific gastroenteritis and sent home.

Over the next week, the dog continued to vomit intermittently, had a decreased appetite and weight loss, and produced only small amounts of stool. His blood test results were all normal. Repeat x-rays were still unimpressive as far as gas distention of his bowel, but the offending foreign body could finally be seen. At surgery, a hard plastic hexagon-shaped object was removed from the small intestine where it was lodged. The hole in the center of the object allowed the contents of the intestines to pass through, thereby preventing a more easily diagnosed full blockage. He should experience a full and smooth recovery.

There are countless benefits to running with your dog: Running or jogging will help maintain your dog’s weight, improve his muscle tone, maintain a strong cardiovascular system, and build endurance. Running uphill develops rear drive. If you compete in any sort of showing or sport with your dog, he will undoubtedly become better conditioned from running than his “weekend warrior” competitors.

Running is also beneficial to your dog’s mental health. Running makes dogs happy. It allows them to explore the world through sights, sounds, and smells. They get to spend more time with you doing something fun. It allows them to release energy, making it less likely that they will vent their energy in destructive ways. This will make you happy.

Check with your vet first

Before you start running with your dog, however, he should be examined by your veterinarian and cleared to start a running program before you subject him to many miles. (If you are just beginning running yourself, it is advisable to have a physical examination by your doctor, too!)

How old should your dog be before it is physically safe to begin running together? One rule of thumb is that the dog’s bone growth plates should be closed before the dog takes part in any sort of rigorous activity. Puppy bones and muscles need sufficient time to develop fully and may be injured by beginning a structured running program too early. Some breeds and types mature more slowly than others. Owners of large dogs such as Great Danes and Scottish Deerhounds, for example, may be well advised to wait until their dogs reach the age of 1½ to 2 years. Lighter-boned dogs such as Miniature Pinschers and Whippets may be ready at 8 months to a year. Most dogs should be in the 1- to 1½-year range; check with your veterinarian for information on when your dog’s bone growth plates should be expected to close.

Training preparation

Before you begin running with your dog, you will need to train your dog to first walk, and then run with you. Your dog should already be trained to walk on leash without forging ahead and pulling you off balance, and should sit by your side when you stop at busy intersections. Teaching simple behaviors such as “slow” or “easy” when your dog pulls, or “leave it” when he spots a squirrel or rabbit, are imperative for your safety when running. Remember, unlike walking, only one of your feet is in contact with the ground when you are running, making your dog’s sudden pulls especially dangerous.

Necessary equipment

While you will need to invest in some properly fitting, quality running shoes, and perhaps some specific running attire for yourself, running gear for your dog is simple and inexpensive. All you need is a four-foot to six-foot leather or cotton web lead and a snugly fitting flat collar to keep your dog safely by your side. A flat collar, martingale collar, or head halter are all choices to consider. A harness is also an option, but the fit and quality of materials used in a dog running harness are critical, as harnesses can cause serious chafing on longer runs. Retractable leads are not recommended.

Start running with your dog slowly

Many of the same principles that apply to beginning a running program for humans apply to our dogs as well. Owners and dogs should ease gradually into a running program, beginning with alternating walking and running for brief periods (no more than 20 minutes), three times a week, gradually increasing the running. Humans and dogs new to running might begin with two minutes of running at a comfortable pace followed by two minutes of walking, for a week or two. Progress to four minutes of running, two minutes walking, then to six minutes running, two walking, until you and your dog are able to run continuously for 20 minutes comfortably, three times a week.

Begin all workouts with a warm-up period of brisk walking or easy jogging before running as well as a similar cool-down after your workout.

Rest and recovery are essential to improve the fitness of both you and your dog. When just starting out, run with your dog every other day, rather than on successive days, allowing time for muscle recovery and to avoid injury while building endurance.

After four to six weeks of training three times a week for 20 minutes, both you and your dog will have built up your strength and endurance to begin to increase your mileage. The generally accepted guideline on increasing running mileage is not to exceed a 10 percent increase (in either time or mileage) a week. As you increase your mileage, your dog’s pads will gradually toughen to handle the longer distances.

How far can your dog run?

As your dog’s strength and stamina increase, he will undoubtedly delight in accompanying you on longer training runs. The number of miles, minutes, or hours you eventually run with him is largely determined by the dog. Many breeds are capable of running 25 to 35 miles a week, but perhaps individual dogs within the breed are not. It is important for you to determine your dog’s limits when running. The dog’s age, size, body density, coat thickness, and temperament may affect how far your dog can safely run. Dogs, like humans, have physical and mental differences that influence performance. By observing your dog’s behavior it is simple to figure out your dog’s comfortable running distance.

The signs that your dog is tiring are often subtle, and his devotion to you may cause him to run longer or farther than he would on his own. It is up to you to recognize these subtle signs and to stop your run as soon as you become aware of them. If your dog is panting excessively, breathing fast and hard, lagging behind the length of the lead, or showing signs of lameness, it is time to abandon your training run. Be particularly aware of the behavior of the older dog when running. These veterans have not lost their enthusiasm, but just as older human athletes, they need to slow down a bit and need more time for rest and recovery.

Using over-the counter human eye drops for dogs can get you in a lot of trouble. For example, Visine can cause life-threatening problems in your dog (see sidebar), and administering the wrong eye drops for the problem your dog is facing can worsen the condition.

Are Over the Counter Eye Drops Safe for Dogs?

The only safe human eye drops for dogs are saline eye drops and artificial tears. And, even then, you should discuss why you want to use them with your veterinarian before administering the drops. If you just need to flush out your dog’s eyes to remove a crusty discharge, warm tap water will do the trick. Anything else—especially if your dog is showing signs of pain like squinting, redness, or a bloody discharge—needs prompt veterinary attention.

Prescription Eye Drops

Your veterinarian will prescribe prescription eye drops if your dog suffers from ophthalmic disease. Some drops are the same as human eye drops, so your veterinarian may have you fill your script at your local pharmacy. Drops don’t last as long in the eye and typically must be administered four to six times a day. If this is not possible with your schedule, ask your veterinarian if there is an ointment alternative. Most ointments are administered two to three times daily.

Antibiotic Eye Drops for Dogs

Antibiotic eye drops—triple antibiotic (neomycin/polymyxin/bacitracin), ofloxacin, tobramycin, erythromycin, gentamicin—are prescribed for bacterial conjunctivitis and corneal ulcers. Signs of bacterial conjunctivitis are redness with green or yellow discharge. Corneal ulcer signs include squinting, pain, cloudy cornea.

Steroid Eye Drops

Steroid eye drops like dexamethasone and prednisone are prescribed for allergic conjunctivitis and other inflammatory ocular conditions like uveitis. If you have steroid eye drops in your dog’s medicine cabinet from a prior issue, be aware that steroid drops are not recommended if your dog has a corneal ulcer, as they can delay healing. If your dog is squinting with a painful eye, do not use steroid drops. See your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Other Prescription Eye Drops

Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) eye drops such as diclofenac are frequently prescribed for dogs after cataract surgery.

Cyclosporine and tacrolimus are prescription immunosuppressive eye drops used to treat dry eye syndrome, also known as keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). Signs of KCS in dogs include squinting, ocular irritation, excessive mucous accumulation, and cloudy corneas. Your veterinarian will perform a tear test to confirm the diagnosis before prescribing these drops.

For glaucoma, a disease that causes elevated intraocular (eye) pressure, prescribed eye drops for dogs include dorzolamide, timolol, and latanoprost. Signs of glaucoma in dogs include redness, squinting, pain, cloudy cornea, and an enlarged eyeball. If you suspect your dog may be suffering from glaucoma, seek treatment right away. Uncontrolled glaucoma results in blindness and, ultimately, the loss of the eye.

Vitamin E is good for dogs, but information about vitamin E dosages may make your head spin. Suggested dosages of vitamin E for dogs appear to be all over the place. To make matters worse, dosages may be listed in International Units (IUs) or milligrams (mgs).

Piling on to the confusion is that there are two main forms of vitamin E—natural and synthetic—and they have different potencies and, therefore, different vitamin E dosages. It’s a lot to take in, but we have the answers you need about vitamin E supplements for dogs.

What Is Vitamin E?

Vitamin E is an antioxidant, which means it helps protect cell membranes throughout the body. It is involved in fat metabolism, helps keep the immune system healthy, and improves fertility. It has benefits for your dog’s skin, coat, muscles, and vision.

Although vitamin E is safe for dogs, not every dog need a supplement. Canine vitamin E deficiency is rare, and most dogs get plenty in a complete and balanced diet. Your veterinarian can run blood tests to see if your dog is truly deficient if you’re concerned.

Signs of vitamin E deficiency include:

• vision problems
• painful inflammation of body fat (steatitis)
• muscle inflammation or weakness
• neurologic derangements

Vitamin E with Fish Oil

Dogs on fish oil may benefit from adding vitamin E. The polyunsaturated fatty acids in fish oil that are so good for your dog can deplete vitamin E stores over time. The small amount of vitamin E in fish oil supplements is basically there as a preservative, usually in amounts too small to enhance levels in your dog. The most common recommendation for vitamin E supplementation in dogs receiving fish oil is 400 IU vitamin E for every 1,000 mg of fish oil.

Vitamin E Dosages for Dogs

To calculate the proper dose of vitamin E for your dog, you first need to determine which type of vitamin E is in the bottle you purchased:

• The natural form of vitamin E is called d-alpha tocopherol (d-).
• The synthetic form of vitamin E is called dL-alpha tocopherol (dL-).

The natural form is much more potent than the synthetic form and is the best form to use.

Next, you’ll have to do some math. Remember this: 1 mg of natural (d-) vitamin E equals 2 mg synthetic (dL-) vitamin E.

You may also need to convert IU to mg or mg to IU, which isn’t difficult:

• For natural (d-) vitamin E:
  • IU x 0.67 = mg
  • mg x 1.5 = IU
• For synthetic (dL-) vitamin E:
  • IU x 0.45 = mg
  • mg x 2.22 = IU

So, using these formulas, here are examples:

• 200 IU d-alpha tocopherol (natural vitamin E) = 134.5 mg of vitamin E
• 200 IU dL-alpha tocopherol (synthetic vitamin E) = 90 mg of vitamin E

Of course, that still doesn’t answer the question about how much vitamin E to give your dog, except fish oil, as mentioned above. So, in our chart below, we share a few problems that may benefit from vitamin E supplementation for your dog, with suggested dosages.

Please note these dosages are taken from respected veterinary drug formularies but are all off-label recommendations. Never give your dog a supplement of any type without first talking with your veterinarian.

Sample Vitamin E Dosages

Vitamin E Overdoses

Vitamin E is generally safe in dogs, with overdosage issues rarely seen. Inadvertent, acute overdose usually results in gastrointestinal upset, with vomiting and diarrhea. Chronic overdose can cause issues with decreased absorption of the other fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, and K). Dogs with low vitamin K levels given too much vitamin E may have clotting problems that result in excessive bleeding.

Fish oil is often recommended by veterinarians for canine arthritis. That’s because fish oil is a natural anti-inflammatory proven to provide relief to painful joints. A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Association concluded that arthritic dogs “had a significantly improved ability to rise from a resting position and play at six weeks (of supplementation) and improved ability to walk at 12 and 24 weeks, compared with control dogs.” That’s the thing, though. You need to give the fish oil time to work. It can take at least a couple of months for clinical improvement to be noted.

Benefits of Fish Oil for Dogs

In addition to arthritis, a fish oil supplement can help with:

• skin disorders, like itching
• kidney disease
• hypertriglyceridemia (too much fat in the blood)
• cognitive dysfunction syndrome
• cancer (appears to slow growth in some cancers)

Fish Oil Dosages for Dogs

You can start supplementing fish oil at any age, but discuss it with your veterinarian if your dog is still a puppy or on medications. Sooner is better than later for an active, athletic dog.

The recommended dosage of combined EPA and DHA (omega-3 fatty acids; see sidebar) depends on the condition being treated but ranges from 70 to 310 milligrams per kilogram (mg/kg) of body weight, which is 1 mg per 2.2 lbs your dog’s body weight. The National Research Council (NRC) says the upper safe limit is 370 mg/kg.

Some dogs can be sensitive to fish oils – especially if they have a history of gastrointestinal or pancreatic disease – so gradually introduce your dog to fish oil to make sure it’s tolerated. If a dog gets too much fish oil, the result can include oily diarrhea, vomiting, and pancreatitis.

If your dog is overweight, be sure to consider the fat content in fish oil in your dog’s calorie budget. If you are unsure how much fish oil should be given to your dog, please consult your dog’s veterinarian.

Buying Fish Oil for Your Dog

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate the quality of supplements like fish oil. Please be sure you give your dog fish oil from a reputable source so that you are confident the product contains what is listed on the label and is free of contaminants like heavy metals or polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).

We recommend that you choose a fish oil supplement that has a National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal on it. The NASC is a third-party organization that ensures its member companies adhere to the NASC’s high standards for ingredient quality and marketing practices.