When you cut your dog’s nails, only clip a little off at a time. If the dog’s nails are still too long, trim again in a week. Firn | Getty Images
Your dog’s nails provide traction and digging power even when they are short. The longer they get, the higher the risk that they may cause injuries. Nails clicking on the kitchen floor is a signal that it’s past time for a nail trim.
How long should a dog’s nails be? The correct dog nail length is short. Nails shouldn’t touch the ground when your dog is standing still. As your dog runs and flexes her feet on the move, the short nails will still contact the ground to give her a good grip.
Long Nails Can Cause Pain
Dog nails that are too long can impact how your dog walks. As the nail grows outward, it will also curve. A tight curve will eventually curl all the way around and start growing into your dog’s foot pad – ouch! This is painful and can lead to infections.
Even slightly curved nails are problematic. As the nails continue to grow, they gradually curve more and more. The dog’s feet will tip back to accommodate the long nails, changing your dog’s posture. This abnormal stance changes how your dog’s joints line up and can contribute to pain and joint disorders.
Dog nails that are allowed to grow without regular cutting will begin to curl around, back toward the paw. Credit zhihao | Getty Images
How to Tell if a Dog’s Nails Are Too Long
For many dog owners, nails clicking on the kitchen floor is the signal that it is time for a nail trim.
Another sign may be splayed, flat-looking feet. Some dogs have this conformation naturally, but regular nail trims to get them short over time can help the paw tighten up in some cases.
Nails getting caught in blankets, carpeting, or clothing can also be a sign that they are too long.
Dog Nail Trims Take Patience
You probably won’t be able to get your dog’s nails to their ideal length in one sitting, especially if they have been growing unchecked for a long time. Set a recurring alert on your phone to trim your dog’s nails at least once a week, taking off as much as you can safely each time. For dogs with black nails, just trim a little bit so you don’t have to worry about hitting the quick and hurting your dog.
Context matters when it comes to a toothy expression from your dog; not every display of teeth is an aggressive snarl. Photo by GlobalP, Getty Images
There are a number of situations during which a dog may show his teeth – and the ones that involve aggression are few. Dogs may bare their teeth as an appeasement gesture (which looks like a sheepish grin), during dog-dog play (perfectly appropriate!), or to communicate discomfort or stress (in which case, you should be careful, because he’s asking for space). While these are all normal dog behaviors, each of these tooth-display scenarios begs a different response from you, depending on the circumstances.
What to do when your dog shows teeth
Determine which of the above is the cause of your dog’s dental display and respond accordingly as follows.
Appeasement grin: This can happen when a dog feels pressured or intimidated. The majority of dogs never do this – and a very small percentage do it a lot. If you see other appeasement signals (head turn; lowered body posture; body leaning backward, behind the vertical) it’s likely a smile, not a snarl. Relax your own body posture (stop acting so assertive or pushy!), turn sideways, smile, talk softly, and assure your dog he’s not in trouble.
Dog-dog play: If both dogs enjoy tooth play, let it be! If one seems overwhelmed, give the dogs a cheerful timeout break, and then let them go back to playing. If one is consistently overwhelmed, find each dog new play partners.
Discomfort or stress: Like the growl, a toothy snarl is a sign of aggression. Like the growl, it’s actually a good thing. It’s an escalation in intensity from the growl, but your dog is still trying very hard to NOT bite you. He’s saying, “You’re making me really uncomfortable; please stop what you’re doing.” So stop whatever is stressing him! If what you’re doing is something that must be done (such as toothbrushing or nail-trimming), take the time to help him learn to be happy about it. (Here’s an example of what to do to improve your dog’s response to nail-trimming. Take the same approach, using counter-conditioning and desensitization, for any procedure your doesn’t currently feel comfortable with.)
Whatever the reason for your dog’s teeth display, never, ever punish him for this. You want him to feel comfortable communicating with you, so you can figure out why he’s showing teeth and take whatever steps are appropriate.
Pica in dogs is when your canine eats dumb stuff that isn’t food. Credit: Paul Miskiw / Eye Em | Getty Images
Pica in dogs is when your dog eats abnormal things, as in stuff that isn’t food. Pica is a compulsive behavior in people, and it may be in dogs, too, but science hasn’t proven that. For true pica, your dog must eat the item, not just chew it (poop eating is a separate issue).
Pica is not something you can ignore. Dogs who eat dumb stuff often end up at the veterinarian’s office for emergency surgery due to blockages. Don’t overreact if your dog picks up something, however. Yelling or chasing your dog causes many dogs to do a quick swallow to ensure you can’t get their treasure.
Causes of Pica in Dogs
According to a 2019 study in the Journal of Veterinary Medical Science, pica is one of the most often reported behavioral issues in dogs. Not surprisingly, this study found the behavior was more likely in younger dogs. What was interesting is that it was found to be more likely in neutered dogs. The study involved 2,000 cases based on an online survey.
Veterinarians at the University of California at Davis cite nutritional deficiencies and anxiety problems are the most likely causes.
Cornell University’s world-renowned behavior expert Katherine Houpt, VMD, said in her column in Cornell DogWatch that pica is becoming related to the dog not feeling well: “Recently, the evidence is beginning to accumulate that the animals who do this have a gastrointestinal problem, especially an upper gastro-intestinal problem.”
A veterinary examination with any necessary testing may be in order.
Treatments for Pica
To truly treat something, you need to know its cause, but without a proven cause, veterinarians must guess. A thorough understanding of what you’re seeing in your dog’s pica may help. Some studies indicate dogs who eat dirt and rocks might respond to a vitamin/mineral supplement.
Dr. Houpt says trying food-dispensing toys may distract the dog and satisfy any food-seeking desires. She also recommended considering a high-fiber diet, such as any weight-loss foods.
For dogs battling anxiety issues, there are prescription medications your veterinarian can recommend that may help with pica.
Training for Pica Control
Given that boredom and anxiety are high on the pica causes list, make sure your dog is engaged, enriched, and as stress-free as possible. Lots of exercise is important.
Try to limit and control your dog’s access to the object of his desire, which admittedly can be difficult with something as ubiquitous as rocks. You can:
Use a basket muzzle. This can be a lifesaver, once your dog is properly and happily conditioned to it.
Teach your dog a solid “leave it.” With “leave it,” your dog should be rewarded in some way for ignoring the item of desire. If he seeks out a rock on a walk, you can notice he’s looking at it, tell him to leave it, and then reward him.
“Trade” is a cue you can teach that is especially useful for when your dog beats you to the prize. It’s important that you have a trade item of equali or higher value than what your dog has.
Finally, if your dog shows any signs of a blockage—vomiting, diarrhea, pain, not eating, no poop, weakness—contact your veterinarian immediately.
Pica in Puppies
Pica in puppies can be different from pica in adult dogs. Puppies explore the world by putting things in their mouths, which includes rocks, socks, and literally anything they can fit in their mouths. Most puppies outgrow pica and “puppy proofing” your house and yard can help avoid it until they do.
Fluoxetine is a medication prescribed by many veterinarians for dog aggression. Credit: Tatyana | Getty Images.
Fluoxetine is a selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor (SSRI) that is FDA-approved for treating separation anxiety in dogs. It is also sometimes prescribed for aggressive dogs, general anxiety, and compulsive disorders in dogs.
Fluoxetine is commonly known under its brand names Reconcile (chewable veterinary tablet), Prozac, and Sarafem.
Medication for Aggressive Dogs
If you’re looking for medication for an aggressive dog, fluoxetine is a strong choice. Be advised, however, that aggression in dogs is extremely difficult to treat successfully, even with the help of medication and compliance with a professionally guided behavior-modification program from a fear-free trainer.
Aggression in dogs as a behavior issue always carries a guarded prognosis. Even with improvement, these dogs can still be dangerous and should always be carefully managed with the safety of both humans and other dogs in mind.
Fluoxetine for Dogs Dosage
The FDA-approved fluoxetine dosage for dogs is 1 to 2 mg/kg by mouth once a day. With safe rounding, this translates to 5 to 10 mg for a 10-lb. dog, 20 to 40 mg for a 50-lb. dog, and 40 to 80 mg for a 90-lb. dog. Your veterinarian usually will start low, even as low as 0.5 mg/kg once a day, for the first couple of weeks to minimize side effects and allow your dog to acclimate to the medication. The dose is ramped up from there, as needed.
Fluoxetine for Dogs Side Effects
Reported fluoxetine side effects in dogs include:
Lethargy
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Lack of appetite
Observed possible side effects include:
Seizures (cause and effect is not proven)
Unusual aggressive behavior
Restlessness
Shaking
Panting
Confusion
Vocalizing
Drooling
If your dog exhibits any of these side effects, contact your veterinarian. Sometimes starting with a lower dose resolves the issue, with subsequent higher dosages better tolerated. Fluoxetine can be given with or without food, so if your dog vomits or stops eating after trying it one way, you may be advised to try it the other way. See also “Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs.”
Darwin’s Ark is a nonprofit scientific research project that offers mixed-breed dog breed identification tests.
A couple of weeks ago I wrote about a story that had been widely shared on social media about mixed breed dog DNA tests. The story had been generated by a Canadian news organization, which had conducted an investigation into the tests, by submitting DNA from three dogs and one human to four companies offering these tests. The results were widely reported as being crazily false – and the results from two of the vendors were bananas, but there were actually pretty good results from the two leading vendors of these tests (Wisdom Panel and Embark), with the latter’s results being, as far as I was concerned, spot-on!
Neither the Canadian news station nor I mentioned the only nonprofit purveyor of mixed-breed DNA tests. Today I’m trying to correct that, as well as promote their services for entirely selfish reasons.
Darwin’s Ark is a nonprofit scientific research project that offers mixed-breed dog breed identification tests – but, more seriously, the project is using dog DNA in order to find answers to common health and behavioral issues in dogs, with implications for human health and medicine. It’s the brainchild of geneticist Elinor K. Karlsson, a professor of Bioinformatics and Integrative Biology at the University of Massachusetts Chan Medical School, and the Director of Vertebrate Genomics at the Broad Institute of Harvard and MIT. Karlsson’s current projects include the Zoonomia Project, an international effort led by the Vertebrate Genomics group at the Broad Institute to compare hundreds of different mammalian genomes and identify critically important segments of DNA. She is also studying recent human evolution to find the genetic variation that makes some people resistant to ancient infectious diseases, like cholera.
Karlsson has a special interest in diseases shared between humans and dogs. She leads the citizen science-driven Darwin’s Dogs project, which invites dog owners to participate directly in research exploring the genetic basis of dog behavior, as well as diseases such as OCD and cancer.
There’s a very good article about Karlsson’s work here, written by sometime WDJ contributor Jessica Hekman, DVM, who studies the genomics of dog behavior at the University of Illinois, Urbana, and who is a post-doctoral associate who works on the Darwin’s Dogs project.
Darwin’s Ark is collecting DNA samples from as many dogs as they can get their hands on, and the DNA will be available for use by all the Darwin’s Ark researchers in any of the fascinating and meaningful studies they are conducting. One focuses on working dogs: assistance dogs, military dogs, SAR dogs, bomb detection dogs and more. The Darwin’s Ark website describes, “Our goal is to find genetic markers for the behavioral traits that make successful military and working dogs. By using new genetic technology, and working closely with dog breeders and trainers, we want to be able to select the right dog for the right job.”
They also have a cancer study in progress. “By studying cancer in dogs, we’re working to help both people and dogs survive cancer. Dogs get many different types of cancer, and many of these cancers look and behave like human cancers. Canine cancers are also treated with many of the same drugs and other treatments that humans receive. Additionally, some cancers that are very rare in people are more common and easier to study in dogs. Together, we’ll be learning more about why dogs get cancer and the best ways to help them. We plan to study risk factors passed down from parents to puppies, test methods to detect cancer in a blood sample, and compare exposures to potential cancer risk factors in each dog’s home and surrounding areas.”
All canine DNA submitted to Darwin’s Ark – including that submitted in search of identifying the breeds in a mixed-breed dog – will go into a pool of data that can be accessed by the scientists working with Darwin’s Ark, for strictly noncommercial purposes. Darwin’s Ark makes a big point that this is all open science: “We are a non-profit that subscribes to the open science model. This means we do not own and will never sell your pet’s data. You contribute to an open source database and we share all the new discoveries we find freely with you and researchers around the world. Together we can advance health care for pets and their humans.”
You can participate in Darwin’s Ark’s research by submitting your dog’s DNA to Darwin’s Ark for free; they just ask you to answer a number of surveys about your dog’s health and behavior. Once you’re answered 10 surveys, Darwin’s Ark will ship a DNA collection kit to you for free. Once returned, they sequence the DNA from the saliva and send you genetic and ancestry information about your pet – but the timetable for receiving these results for free depends entirely on the funding Darwin’s Ark receives as a result of its constant grant-writing. If you submit information about your dog and return the DNA collection kit that you requested for free, it may take years for you to receive any answers.
However, Darwin’s Ark now offers a paid service that will return the results of a mixed-breed identification test to you on a more prompt schedule. Yippee! For $149, Darwin’s Ark will send you a DNA collection kit that you return in a postage-paid envelope – and you’ll receive the results faster. . . but since this is not a commercial enterprise, the timetable of your results will depend on the number of paid samples they receive. Darwin’s Ark doesn’t run DNA tests on individual dogs, but will run the tests any time they have a batch of 20 paid-for DNA samples.
We’re finally at that place of self-interest that I mentioned earlier.
As I mentioned in the previous blog post about mixed-breed dog identification tests, I had DNA for my dogs Woody and Otto analyzed by both Embark and Wisdom Panel, and have shared the very similar results. I also sent DNA from my youngest dog, Boone, to Wisdom Panel. A few weeks ago, I submitted Boone’s DNA to Embark and to the paid service offered by Darwin’s Ark. I’ll share the results of those tests when I receive them, but as I learned when I checked with Darwin’s Ark, to see when I might expect results from them, their results will arrive promptly after they have received a total of 20 paid tests and run them as a batch.
If you’re interested in getting a mixed-breed dog identification test done on your dog – especially if you’re interested in science and would love to contribute to open-source science involving dogs and being conducted by scientists all over the world – consider getting a paid DNA test from Darwin’s Ark! You can read more about how to order the tests and what Darwin’s Ark is doing with its data here. And when Darwin’s Ark sends me results on Boone’s DNA, I’ll share that with you – and would be happy to also share any results you receive from your dogs that you send us. It would be fun!
Darwin’s Ark explains the difference between the methodology of how its tests are run versus the how the commercial labs get their results; it sounds like Darwin’s results will be much more complete than those offered by Embark and Wisdom Panel. According to the Darwin’s Ark website, “We generate about 9,000,000 markers for each dog for our research. Our breed ancestry panel currently uses 688,060 of those markers. We are limited in the number of markers we can use for breed ancestry, because the algorithm we use requires that every dog in our breed panel have the same number of markers.”
For comparison, this information is from the Embark website: “Embark is the only canine genetics company that uses a research-grade genotyping technology. The Embark dog DNA test is based on the Illumina CanineHD microarray, which has long been the leading research platform for dog genetics. Our dog DNA test analyzes 230,000 genetic markers. That’s more than twice as much genetic data as the competition.”
I am eager to learn more and compare the results for my dog from Wisdom Panel, Embark, and now Darwin’s Ark. Are you, too?
Does your dog drive you nuts every fall when the time changes for daylight saving? Start a couple of weeks in advance of the time change to prepare him for the shift. Photo by Jaromir Chalabala/EyeEm, Getty Images
If you live in a country that observes daylight saving time, you’re likely familiar with the intense stares of hungry dogs, certain they’re starving, and willing you, with every ounce of their being, to feed them, stat!
As you prepare to “fall back” this season, the following tips can help smooth the transition for your animal friends:
Don’t be so predictable. We humans often love routines, but it’s the predictability of our daily routines that leads our dogs to expect meals as a specific time. Rather than establish the pattern of feeding your dog at 6 a.m. and 5:30 p.m., whenever possible, establish a window of time within which your dogs will be fed, and randomize exact feeling times within that window. With this method, your dog learns to trust that meals consistently happen, but he’s less likely to become insistent as the clock approaches a specific time.
Prepare for the time change. If changing your scheduled from a set feeding time to a meal window doesn’t work for your household, start preparing your dog for the time change a month or so in advance. Feed your dog 10 minutes later than usual for one week, then 20 minutes later than usual, then 30 minutes later, and so on, until the time changes and, suddenly, the one-hour time difference doesn’t feel like that big of a deal.
Occupy your dog’s mind. Help your dog take his mind off the delayed meal by going on a light walk or doing some training in the hour between when his body tells him it’s mealtime and when the clock supports his request. Make sure your dog’s breathing has fully returned to normal before feeding to help prevent gastric dilatation and volvulus, also known as “bloat,” which is thought to be caused, in part, by gulping air during meals.
With a little preplanning, you and your dog can both enjoy a smoother transition away from daylight saving time and into standard time. Another tip: When the time change finds you out walking well after the sun has set, help keep yourself and your dog safe with high visibility gear.
An interdigital cyst (more accurately called a furuncle) is caused by infected hair follicle. There are numerous reasons that a hair follicle may become infected, including anything as random as an embedded grass awn, to being overweight or having certain types of leg conformation. Photo by Jennifer Bailey, DVM.
Does your dog have a tender, raised, round, red nodule between his toes that’s obviously causing him pain? This cyst on your dog’s paw is most likely what’s commonly called an interdigital cyst.
“Interdigital cyst” is a misnomer; cysts are thin-walled sac that contains fluid. The painful lumps found between a dog’s toes are more accurately called a furuncle – also known as a boil – and is caused by an infected hair follicle. Your veterinarian may refer to this condition as interdigital furunculosis.
A hair follicle is a shaft or opening in the skin through which a hair grows. An interdigital cyst develops when a hair follicle becomes infected. These cysts most often develop on the top side of the webbing between the toes but can also appear on the underside of the webbing between the paw pads.
Causes of interdigital cysts
The most common cause of an interdigital cyst is trauma from the very hair that sits inside the follicle. Some breeds of dogs, including the Chinese Shar Pei, Labrador Retriever, and English Bulldog, have short, stiff hairs on the webbing between their toes. Taking an awkward step can drive one of these bristly hairs backwards into the hair follicle. This is called an ingrown hair.
This may seem odd, but hair is very irritating to the deeper layers of skin. The primary component of hair is keratin. When keratin enters the skin around the hair follicle, it causes an inflammatory reaction. The skin around the follicle becomes swollen and closes off part of the follicle. Bacteria inside the follicle become trapped and grow, causing an infected follicle and the formation of an interdigital cyst.
A misstep is not the only cause of traumatic ingrown hairs. Dogs who have varus (where the forelimb is rotated so that the elbow juts outward) or valgus (where the front paws are turned outward from the wrist of their forelimbs) – either due to their breed or an angular limb deformity – are more likely to develop interdigital cysts. Dogs who have varus or valgus are more likely to bear weight on the webbing between their toes rather than just the paw pads. This increases the likelihood of driving hairs back into the hair follicle, resulting in an interdigital cyst.
Dogs who are overweight are more likely to bear weight on the webbing between their toes when walking or running. So are dogs whose gait has been altered by osteoarthritis.
Interdigital cysts can also be caused by stepping on a thorn or a burr. Grass awns and foxtails can enter the webbing between a dog’s toes and cause an interdigital cyst.
Any condition that causes your dog to excessively lick his paws can also lead to the formation of interdigital cysts. This includes demodicosis, atopic dermatitis, and bacterial and fungal infections. See the “Seriously Itchy Paws” for more information about what may be causing your dog’s paws itch.
Interdigital cysts typically require nothing more than a physical examination to diagnose and treat. But if your dog has more than one cyst, has recurring cysts, or cysts do not respond to conventional treatment, then your veterinarian may order diagnostics to determine the underlying problem. These diagnostics may include a biopsy of one or more cysts, a skin scrape cytology to look for Demodex mites, or a bacteria culture and sensitivity to determine the correct antibiotic.
Treatment for interdigital cysts
Single cysts may be treated with a topical antibiotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated cleanser, such as one containing chlorhexidine, to clean the cyst and the skin around it. Your dog may need to wear an Elizabethan collar (the cone of shame!) to prevent him from licking the cyst as it heals. An analgesic should be prescribed to reduce your dog’s pain and discomfort. Having multiple cysts or a single cyst that does not respond to topical treatment may require an oral antibiotic.
Photobiomodulation (also known as PBM or laser therapy) and fluorescence biomodulation (FBM) are therapies that may be used in addition to topical or oral antibiotics to treat interdigital cysts. Both therapies use specific wavelengths of light to reduce pain and inflammation and stimulate healing. PBM is available at many general practices whereas FBM may only be available at specialty hospitals or veterinary universities.
Dogs who do not respond to medical management may require surgical removal of their interdigital cysts. Removing a cyst with traditional surgical techniques requires removing the skin around the cyst and may alter the conformation of a dog’s paw. Alternatively, interdigital cysts can be vaporized with a carbon dioxide laser (CO2 laser). This allows for removal of only the affected tissue and has a better outcome but may require multiple treatments to fully resolve the issue.
Prevention of interdigital cysts
There are a number of strategies you can implement to minimize the risk of your dog developing interdigital cysts. If your dog is overweight, talk to your veterinarian about the most effecive way to manage a weight loss program for your dog. Avoid walking through areas that contain thorns, prickers, grass awns, and foxtails. If your dog excessively licks his paws, make an appointment with his veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and appropriate treatment.
Keep your dog’s paws clean and dry; excess moisture can lead to bacterial and fungal skin infections. Your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated wipe that can be used daily. Inspect your dog’s paws regularly for any redness or small bumps so that issues can be addressed early before they become big, painful problems.
When is a seizure not a seizure?
My dog, Prince, and I had just finished our morning walk when I noticed he was favoring his front right paw. He had not shown any lameness on our walk, but now, all of a sudden, he was gingerly walking on his paw and licking a spot between his toes.
Examination of his paw revealed a red, swollen lump between his digits. Over the next few days, the lump got bigger and started leaking a clear yellow fluid. My own dog had an interdigital cyst! I started Prince on a course of antibiotics and several days of an analgesic. The lump began to shrink and resolve, and about a week later, the lump between his toes had completely disappeared and Prince was back to his normal self. Your dog can also recover with appropriate treatment prescribed by your veterinarian.
If the words you use to describe your dog or your training methods align with your philosophy of creating a kind and nurturing relationship with your dog based on mutual trust and respect, you’re likely to behave accordingly. Think carefully about the words you and/or your instructor use and discard those that prompt you to send the wrong message to your dog! Photo by LWA, Getty Images
I’ve been training dogs professionally for 27 years, but I don’t use “commands” for this purpose, I use “cues.” What difference does choosing respectful dog training language make? A lot!
The definition of command is “an authoritative order.” Even when we use gentle training methods, if we think “commands,” our brains connect to the authoritative definition and we are likely speak in a louder, harsher (commanding!) tone of voice. In contrast, a cue is an invitation to perform a behavior for which your dog can be reinforced with a treat, play, praise, or the opportunity to perform a behavior the dog enjoys. We are far more likely to speak softly and gently when we use “cues.”
Words to avoid when referring to dogs and in dog training
“Command” is just one of many words that we force-free trainers avoid. Here are others that interfere with the message of kindness and mutual respect we want to send to our dogs:
“It.” This word is used to refer to non-living objects. Dogs (and other animals) are living, thinking, feeling beings. Use he, she, him, and her rather than “it” when referring to a dog. When you acknowledge the sentience of non-human animals, you’re likely to treat them better.
“Breaking.” Breaking evokes force, and we’re not “breaking” anything, we’re “training” – so we usehousetraining (not housebreaking) and say we are training desirable behaviors (not breaking bad habits).
“Obedience.” We want a partnership with our dogs – a happy willingness to offer behaviors we ask for, not their submission to our authority. That’s why we offer good manners training or family dog training rather than “obedience classes.”
“Make.” We don’t “make” our dogs do things. “Make” suggests force and coercion. Instead, we ask our dogs for certain behaviors, invite them, help them, and encourage them.
“Bad.” Dogs aren’t bad and they don’t do bad things – though occasionally they may do something inappropriate. When we think of them as bad, we give ourselves tacit permission to punish them. But when we frame their behavior as “inappropriate,” we’re more likely to think in terms of management and teaching appropriate behaviors rather than punishment.
More pejoratives. I cringe when someone refers to a dog as stupid, stubborn, disobedient, or any other negative adjectives, placing the blame for any unwanted behavior directly on the dog’s shoulders. When a dog doesn’t do what you ask, it’s because she can’t for some reason: she doesn’t understand, she’s too stressed, was distracted, didn’t hear you, is in pain or otherwise physically unable, you haven’t made the consequence of the behavior reinforcing enough, or you haven’t generalized it well (you haven’t trained her!). Figure out why she can’t do it and then help her succeed.
Using respectful dog training language with your dog.
Think carefully about the words you and/or your instructor use to discuss training and your dog. Philosopher and cognitive scientist Daniel Dennett suggests that language lays down the tracks upon which thoughts can travel. Your words connect to your thoughts and influence your behavior. If your words align with your philosophy of creating a kind and nurturing relationship with your dog based on mutual trust and respect, you’re likely to behave accordingly – and you and your dog will be well on your way to achieving that pinnacle.
Mary Cope, PhD, earned her Doctorate in Animal Nutrition from the University of Georgia in 2021 and has her Professional Animal Scientist (PAS) certification with a specialization in companion animals.
Every month, writing something for this space is the last thing I do before I send the final pages to print. This month, as I scanned the proofs one last time, I felt especially proud of what WDJ has to offer.
Our contributors are not just writers who accept random assignments, research the topic, and then summarize what they learned. Instead, they are true experts who are experienced with, knowledgeable, and passionate about dogs and dog care. Our training and behavior writers are long-time dog trainers, and our health articles are written by veterinarians, groomers, and holistic healthcare providers. Represented in these pages is a wealth of knowledge about dogs, acquired through some of the best universities in the country and decades of experience raising, training, rescuing, fostering, and working and competing with dogs.
I’m particularly excited to welcome a new contributor to WDJ: Dr. Mary Cope, a newly minted PhD (Animal Nutrition, University of Georgia), who currently works as a companion animal nutritionist with a pet food consulting company. In addition to her doctorate, Cope has a Professional Animal Scientist (PAS) certification with a specialization in companion animals. She’s also an experienced dog owner, who competes with her rescue dog and Smooth Collie in AKC agility, Fast CAT, and herding events. I’ve been corresponding with Dr. Cope about canine nutrition for some time, while eagerly waiting for her to put the final polish on obtaining these impressive credentials so she’d have time to write some nutrition-related articles for us. She sent a few contributions to me recently – the first of which (“Diets for Small Dogs”) appears this month – and all I can say is, “Thank dog you’re here!” Her work is informative and concise, and I look forward to bringing her deep knowledge of canine nutrition to our readers.
One advantage of having such well-qualified writers is that, when I (or someone I know) has a unique problem with a dog – whether it’s health-related or behavior-based – the odds are good that at least one of our contributors has experienced the same thing, is familiar with the remedy for the problem, and willing to write up a report about it. Or, if they don’t have direct experience, they know who to reach out to for the latest research, treatment, or behavior-modification protocol. And then you (and I) get to benefit from their experience and expertise. I appreciate them so much!
Unless you are present and paying close attention to your dog, you may not even notice him having a focal seizure. Possible symptoms include staring into space and not responding to external stimuli (such as you calling his name or talking to him). Photo by sanjagrujic, Getty Images
Watching your dog have a seizure can be a frightening experience. Time stands still in that moment and you feel helpless – but there is something you can do. Seizures in dogs can have many different causes or triggers, so having your dog evaluated by his veterinarian can help find the problem and thus, appropriate treatments available for this condition. Even “idiopathic” seizures – ones whose cause can’t be determined – can be treated.
What is a seizure?
A seizure is a period of abnormal electrical activity in the brain. This activity between brain cells can cause loss of consciousness, paddling of the limbs, and involuntary urination and defecation.
If the abnormal electrical activity is limited to only one small part of the brain, signs of a “focal seizure” may be observed; these include staring off into space and not responding to external stimuli, an involuntary jaw movement that looks like a dog is chewing gum, and/or tremors.
Seizures can last a few seconds up to several minutes or more. Any seizure lasting more than five minutes requires immediate veterinary intervention to stop the seizure.
What causes seizures in dogs?
Causes of seizures in dogs can be broadly classified into two categories: intracranial (problem inside the brain) and extracranial (problem outside the brain). The list of extracranial causes is much longer and more extensive than the list of intracranial causes.
Intracranial Causes of Seizures
Intracranial causes of seizures can be thought of as structural problems of the brain. This means that the brain is temporarily or permanently altered in some way. Causes can include.
Infection of the brain or meninges (linings around the brain). This includes canine distemper virus, rabies, the fungus Cryptococcus, and the protozoal parasites Neospora caninum and Toxoplasma gondii. Canine distemper tends to affect young puppies but can also affect adult dogs who have not been vaccinated for this virus. The other organisms can affect dogs and puppies of any age.
Congenital abnormalities such as hydrocephalus. This abnormality is something that a dog is born with, so seizures in these cases typically start in young puppies.
Brain tumors, either a single tumor that originates in the brain or multiple tumors that have spread from another location in the body. Brain tumors can be seen at any age but are more likely to be seen in older dogs.
Recent head trauma, such as a skull fracture or concussion.
Degeneration of brain cells caused by exposure to a neurotoxin, such as lead, mercury, toxins produced by blue-green algae, and many others.
Extracranial Causes of Seizures
The brain is a very sensitive organ that requires a tightly controlled environment. When there is a problem in the body that alters the brain’s environment, the otherwise normal brain becomes reactive to the change. This reaction often manifests as a seizure. Causes include:
Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). This is one of the first things your veterinarian will check for if your dog is actively having a seizure. There are many causes of hypoglycemia, including liver disease, pancreatic tumors, insulin overdose in diabetic dogs, and ingestion of a product containing xylitol. It can also be seen in young puppies that are not eating well, particularly small and toy breed puppies.
Hyperkalemia (high potassium). The most common causes of hyperkalemia in dogs are kidney failure, stones in the urinary system that obstruct a dog’s ability to urinate, and hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease).
Hypocalcemia (low calcium). This can be seen in kidney failure, eclampsia in female dogs that are nursing puppies, and dogs with pancreatitis.
Hypoxemia (low oxygen concentration in blood). This can be caused by any condition that impairs a dog’s ability to breathe or to circulate blood effectively, such as pneumonia or a heart condition.
Liver shunt (also known as a portosystemic shunt). A liver shunt is an abnormal blood vessel that allows blood returning from the gastrointestinal system to bypass the liver. Since the liver is responsible for metabolizing proteins that are absorbed by the small intestine, this means that some of these proteins are able to reach the brain before they are processed. Most shunts are congenital, but liver failure can cause the formation of shunts.
A high body temperature can be caused by infection, heat stroke, and prolonged seizure activity. Experiencing a seizure that lasts longer than five minutes can increase body temperature and cause more seizures, regardless of the original cause for the seizure activity.
Seizures with an extracranial cause typically resolve once the underlying problem is found and treated.
Idiopathic epilepsy
Idiopathic epilepsy affects young dogs between the ages of 6 months and 6 years. The cause of idiopathic epilepsy is unknown. It is a diagnosis of exclusion, meaning that other causes of seizures must be ruled out before making this diagnosis.
Any breed of dog can be affected by idiopathic epilepsy. However, it is diagnosed more often in Collies, Bassett Hounds, Cocker Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, and Golden Retrievers.
Identifying the cause
If your dog is experiencing seizures, have your dog assessed by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Your veterinarian will want complete bloodwork, a urinalysis, and x-rays of the chest and abdomen. She may also want to check your dog’s blood pressure and order additional tests based on what she finds on the initial diagnostics. Your dog may be referred to a veterinary neurologist for an MRI of his brain if an extracranial cause of his seizures can not be found.
There are many causes of seizures in dogs. But seizures can be effectively managed or resolved in most cases when the underlying cause is properly diagnosed.
When is a seizure not a seizure?
Seizures can range widely in severity, from brief periods of tremors to complete loss of consciousness and paddling of the limbs. But there are two other conditions that can look like seizure activity but are not seizures. These conditions are syncope and vestibular events. Here’s how to tell the difference:
Seizures may be preceded by a pre-ictal phase, also known as an aura. Dogs experiencing an aura may be whiny and restless and may either hide or be clingy. After the seizure has occurred, dogs will experience a post-ictal phase. During this phase, dogs may be confused or disoriented and they may either be restless or extremely sleepy.
Syncope is a brief fainting spell. Dogs that experience an episode of syncope will fall to one side and lose consciousness for a few seconds. There is no warning that syncope is about to take place. Once a dog regains consciousness, they stand up and act like nothing happened to them.
A vestibular event is characterized by a sudden loss of balance, uncoordinated gait, head tilt, and abnormal jerking movement of the eyes. This abnormal eye movement is called nystagmus. Like syncope, there is no warning that a vestibular event is about to take place. Depending on the underlying cause, recovery from a vestibular event can take days to weeks.
If you are not sure what type of event your dog is experiencing, take a video of your dog while the event is occurring, and share the video with your veterinarian as soon as you are able.
Applying heat to an arthritic dog’s joints can be as simple as warming a moist towel in the microwave and wrapping him in it or letting him lay on it. Human heating pads can be set too high if you aren’t careful. If it feels hot to you, it’s too hot for your dog. Credit: nicpo | Getty Images
Can heat therapy give your dog arthritis pain relief? Yes. A specialized dog heating pad for arthritis can bring some benefits, and it may feel good for your dog on a cold day too.
For long-standing chronic pain, heat can provide both relief and healing to your arthritic dog. And heat doesn’t just feel good to your dog’s aching joints, it also increases blood flow. Muscle spasms often respond to warmth and stiff joints loosen up. Applying heat to your dog can help your dog get the most out of rehab or stretching warmup routines.
Veterinary physiotherapy and rehabilitation expert Dr. Marianne Dorn, of England, says heat therapy enhances local tissue oxygenation and metabolism, reduces muscle spasm, and increases connective tissue extensibility and the pain threshold (Companion Animal Vol 20, No 11).
Acute Injury? Chill
For an acute injury, cold therapy is usually best to reduce inflammation. For example, if your senior Labrador aggravates an old stifle injury consider cold compresses for the first 24 hours. Cold therapy is also the best option for up to 72 hours post-surgery.
Cautions With a Dog Heating Pad for Arthritis
Be careful when applying heat or having your dog stay on a heating pad. You can inadvertently overheat the area and cause further trauma. Heating pads made specifically for pets have heat settings favorable to a dog’s needs. A human heating pad can be set too high, and overdoing the heat is especially a concern with an older dog, injured dog, or a very young pup.
Always check your dog frequently to assess the dog’s comfort. It’s often best to have a layer like a towel between your dog and the heating pad. Generally, 30 minutes is the maximum time to apply heat to your dog, although he could benefit in from 10 minutes or so.
Warm Moist Towels
An inexpensive heating “pad” can be made at home by putting a damp towel in the microwave. Remember, when you take it out, if it is hot to your touch, it will be too hot for your dog. The warm, moist towel can be applied directly to a stiff joint. The same is true for corn or rice bags—don’t let the dog eat them!—or a hot water bottle. Warm therapy is excellent for your dog’s arthritis pain, but the key is warm, not hot.
If your dog is fearful and prone to biting strangers, or has any trait that might make him considered unadoptable in a shelter, your have a greater-than-average responsibility to make arrangements for his care in case of your death – even more so if your health is not good or you are in your senior years. Photo by Dahl, Per, Getty Images
I was volunteering at my local animal shelter one day when the loudspeaker in the kennel area blared, “Kennel attendant for a dog adoption tour, please.” I went to the lobby and was introduced to a couple who, I’m guessing, were in their mid- to late 70s. I was told that they were there to meet a couple of the younger German Shepherd Dogs we had on the adoption row.
My expression probably froze for a moment, but then I put a smile on. “We have a bunch of German Shepherds and GSD-mixes right now,” I told them. “But every single one of them is a big, untrained adolescent! Are you sure you want to deal with such a big, bouncy dog?” I said it with as light a tone as I could muster, but I was concerned. These people did not look particularly strong or agile.
The husband barely acknowledged me, but the wife smiled and said, “Oh yes. We’ve had nothing but German Shepherds our whole lives. We love the breed, and want to help one who needs a home.”
I showed them the various candidates in the adoption kennels, and then a shelter employee took over, taking various dogs to meet them in the big runs outside. I left soon after, so I don’t know which – if any – of the big, strong dogs we had available for adoption they took home. But I’ve thought about the encounter many times over the past few years. It struck me as very unwise, and not particularly self-aware, that the couple would be seeking the same sort of dog they had owned throughout their younger years. I’m super experienced with stressed, large, untrained dogs who haven’t gotten out of their tiny kennels for a week, and, at 20 years younger than the couple, even I get knocked around a fair amount by those dogs in the first sessions we spend together. Even on the occasions when I’ve taken a big rowdy adolescent dog home to foster, it can take weeks or even months to teach them to control their exuberant bodies in the face of exciting stimuli.
When I admitted, a year ago, that one of the reasons I was hesitating over the decision of whether to adopt my youngest dog, Boone, when he was an adorable but thick-legged, big-pawed foster puppy of completely unknown parentage, this encounter with the senior couple was on my mind. I’ll be 60 years old this year – and, with luck, will be 75 or so when the puppy is a senior dog. I had to think about it long and hard: Did I really want to age into my retirement years with another dog who might mature into 70 or more pounds? (Of course, I did adopt that adorable puppy – and, fortunately, it looks like he will top out at about 50 pounds. I can still lift 50 pounds fairly easily, so if he’s ever sick or needs to be lifted in and out of the car, after ACL surgery, say, I can do that!)
Managing the physical size and exercise needs of a big dog is not the only potential challenge for older people adopting a dog. It’s tough to think about, but it’s a reality that people in their senior years are more prone to illnesses or injuries that render them unable to care for their dogs than younger adopters. If you inquire at your local shelter, I will bet folding money that they can point out several dogs who are there solely because their owners passed away without making arrangements for someone else to take the dogs in. In my opinion, it’s irresponsible and selfish to adopt dogs without having a backup plan – and perhaps even money set aside – for our dogs in case of our deaths.
The worst-case scenarios involve dogs whose owners died without making “in case of my death” arrangements for them, and who are completely unprepared for life in any other home. At the shelter, I’ve cared for several dogs who had never been off their property or been touched by humans other than their original (now deceased) owners. The shock and grief experienced by these dogs is awful to witness – and made worse by the fact that, in their shocked and shut-down state, it’s difficult to find someone who will give them another chance at a happy life and adopt them.
Don’t get me wrong: I can’t imagine living without a dog, ever. And I am not saying that we shouldn’t have dogs in our senior years, or even our very last days. I’m just saying that we owe the dogs we take responsibility for the same care and consideration that an owner of any age should have for their dogs. We need to have a solid plan in place for who will take them in the event of our deaths – and perhaps even a backup plan in case the first plan falls through. And we need to be able to fully care for, exercise, and train them, so that, if we are suddenly called away from this earth, our beloved dogs are healthy, socialized to others, and well behaved, so they will be welcome and cherished, not unhappy burdens, to their new owners.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
