Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 78

Best Heartworm Prevention

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
-
0
German short haired pointer dog covered in mosquitos
Since a simple, everyday mosquito bite can infect your dog with heartworms, the risk is too high to not use an FDA-approved heartworm preventative. Credit: Box5 | Getty Images

The most reliable way to protect your dog from heartworm disease is to administer a veterinarian-prescribed, FDA-approved heartworm preventative, at the recommended dose and interval, all year round. These medications are very safe at these dosages (yes, even for your Collie, Sheltie, Australian Shepherd, or other breed with an MDR1 mutation) and highly effective when given as directed.

There are about a dozen preventative drugs that are FDA-approved (see chart at bottom). All of them are made with a drug that will kill both developing heartworm larvae as well as other parasites; which other parasites are killed depends on the drug. Some of these products are given orally monthly, some are administered topically monthly, and others are given as a subcutaneous (under the skin) injection by a veterinarian, at either six-month or 12-month intervals. Each is equally capable of protecting your dog from a heartworm infection – as long as you ensure they are given as directed, on schedule. You should use whichever drug you are most likely to reliably procure and deliver to your dog on schedule.

A further consideration may be to use whichever drug also addresses infestations of other parasites that may be a concern for your dog, or in your area. For example, if flea infestations have been a problem for your dog, using a heartworm preventative product that also kills tapeworms, which are transmitted to dogs via infected fleas, is a good idea. Dogs who have been rescued from hoarding situations or shelters may have been exposed to hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms (which are transmitted via feces from infected dogs), so they would benefit from the drugs that address those infections.

The Heartworm Life Cycle and How Preventatives Work

Adult heartworms are the most life-threatening of the nematodes (roundworms) that infect dogs, causing severe disease and even death if not treated.

Heartworms are spread by mosquitoes. When a mosquito bites an infected dog, it ingests the tiny immature larvae (microfilariae) circulating in the infected dog’s bloodstream. Over the next couple of weeks, these microfilariae mature to an infective larval stage inside the mosquito. When the now-infected mosquito bites another dog, it injects the larvae into that dog. These larvae continue to mature inside your dog as they start their journey from the point of the bite, through the body tissues, to their final destination as adult worms that reside in the dog’s pulmonary vessels and heart. This whole process takes about six months, at which time these adult worms start producing larvae, which circulate in your dog’s bloodstream, waiting for the next mosquito to ingest them so they can leave home and infect another dog. And around it goes.

Most infected dogs end up with multiple worms, each measuring 10 to 12 inches in length, and living inside the dog’s heart and pulmonary vessels for up to seven years.

Heartworm preventatives work by killing the sensitive larval stages of the heartworm that are developing in your dog before they become adults. In other words, the preventatives don’t stop your dog from becoming infected; they kill the infection at the larval stage, before the larvae can go on to become reproducing adults. This is why preventatives must be given repeatedly at the recommended intervals, or a long-acting timed-release product used. If the larvae are allowed to mature past the sensitive, susceptible stage, the medications have little-to-no effect on the more mature stages. So if you miss a few doses, don’t be surprised if your dog tests positive next year, even if you got back on track with the prevention.

Natural Heartworm Prevention

Holistic veterinarians often make the case that vibrantly healthy animals are able to withstand an infection of heartworm larvae, injected into the dog by infected mosquitoes. They may further posit that the healthiest dogs are those who have been fed a home-prepared or fresh commercial diet, only lightly vaccinated, and not treated with any pesticides – and that the immune systems of these dogs will be able to eliminate the heartworm larvae (somehow). They may also recommend the use of herbal or homeopathic remedies to help the dog control a heartworm infection.

Unfortunately, only anecdotal evidence from some of these practitioners support these claims. Studies have shown similar heartworm infection rates among wild wolves and coyotes – who eat “natural” diets and are unexposed to vaccines and pesticides – as in unprotected dogs.

How to Strengthen Heartworm Prevention

In addition to administering a heartworm preventative, you can up your game in the fight against heartworm infection for your dog by going after mosquitoes as well. According to the American Heartworm Society (AHS), concurrent use of an EPA-registered mosquito repellant like K-9 Advantix (Bayer/Elanco) or other ectoparasiticide effective against mosquitoes increases the overall efficacy of your heartworm prevention program. Eliminate or avoid any areas of standing water whenever possible, and avoid outdoor exercise with your dog during peak mosquito feeding times like dusk and dawn.

The AHS also recommends annual testing to include antigen (adult heartworms) and larvae testing. (Microfilariae, the first larval form of heartworms, cannot develop further until they are consumed in a blood meal by a mosquito, but they can grow so numerous in the dog’s blood and small blood vessels that they block small blood vessels. They can also damage the lungs and liver.) At this time, most veterinary practices recommend only antigen testing, reserving microfilaria testing for those dogs who test positive for antigen, but there are several situations that can result in a negative antigen test even when a dog is infected with heartworms; the presence of microfilaria clinches a heartworm infection diagnosis. Puppies should be tested starting at 7 months of age, and annually thereafter.

Why is testing important even if your dog is on preventative and you are diligent in giving the appropriate dose, on time, all year round? Mainly because there are numerous ways that a preventative program can fail. Heartworms have been shown to develop resistance to the current drugs used to control them (see below), and dogs can vomit up their prevention without this being noticed by their owner. If, for some reason beyond your control, your preventative program fails, and your dog becomes infected with adult heartworms, the annual screening heartworm test will catch this infection at an early stage, allowing you to treat the infection before organic damage is done to your dog’s heart and lungs. If you never screen for heartworm disease, it will be found only when your dog starts showing signs of heart failure – and then it’s too late for a good outcome.

Drug Resistance Is a Concern

Even though it seems like there are many options to choose from for heartworm prevention, all of the FDA-approved preventatives (ivermectin, selamectin, milbemycin, moxidectin) belong to the same drug class, macrocyclic lactones – which means we have basically been treating dogs with the same heartworm preventative since 1987 when Heartgard first came out, giving the parasites plenty of time to evolve and develop resistance.

Another factor that may contribute to increased populations of drug-resistant heartworms is that once a drug is approved for use as an effective heartworm preventative, there are no guidelines in place for withdrawing that approval if resistance is documented. Hopefully this issue will be addressed along with changing the standards for getting a new heartworm preventative FDA approved.

Why aren’t there more and different classes of drugs for heartworm prevention in the United States? It may be because the FDA standards for drug approval are so stringent and difficult to achieve that it discourages drug makers from pursuing discovery of new medications and seeking approval. Fortunately, the FDA is working on altering its approach to heartworm preventative approval in response to the growing concern of resistance to the macrocyclic lactones. Hopefully, this means we will start seeing newer, better medications on the horizon.

Why the Heartworm Threat Is Growing

There are a number of factors responsible for the fact that heartworm infections are increasing in prevalence in dogs (and even cats) in this country and others. These include climate and environmental changes, increased movement of dogs across the country, and the growing threat of parasite resistance to heartworm preventatives.

For heartworms to thrive and maintain survival of their species, an ample number of hosts (domestic dogs or wild canines) and vectors (mosquitoes) are necessary. Factors promoting increased numbers of both include:

  • Climate change: Increasing global temperatures and humidity favors mosquito population growth, as does increased incidence of hurricanes, flooding, and other wet weather phenomena.
  • Environmental changes: As more and more undeveloped land is taken over for human habitation, wildlife habitats are infringed upon, forcing wild canids to move closer to areas inhabited by humans and domestic dogs, increasing the numbers of heartworm host reservoirs obviously not on preventatives. Construction frequently alters natural land drainage, creating standing water reservoirs which promote mosquito population growth.
Women Waiting Period Menstruation Calendar Dates
Write down when your dog is due for his monthly heartworm preventative and avoid trying to stretch the time between doses. Credit: Andrey Popov | Getty Images

In addition, the popularity and success of rescue and foster programs, saving unwanted and homeless dogs from euthanasia, has exponentially increased the movement of dogs across state lines. Ideally, these dogs would be tested and treated for heartworm infections before being transported, but this is not always possible. Additionally, many are tested only for adult heartworms, not microfilaria, so while technically negative for adult heartworms these dogs may still be infective to mosquitoes in their new locales. This contributes to the geographic spread of heartworm disease across the country.

And finally, parasite resistance to the currently available FDA-approved heartworm preventatives has been documented in certain areas of the United States, especially in the Southeastern states. This is a huge concern, not dissimilar to the concerns surrounding increasing numbers of antibiotic-resistant bacteria in human medicine. As resistance grows, without newer and better medications we have no defense against disease.

Resistance happens for a number of reasons. Evolution, genetic mutation, and survival of the fittest are well-known reasons. Parasites evolve and genes mutate, sometimes making the organism more resistant to medication. When this happens, only the weakest, most vulnerable parasites are killed, while the genetically stronger, resistant individuals survive and multiply.

Poor compliance with recommended drug dosing and intervals is another culprit in the promotion of drug resistance. If you skip doses or give a lower-than-recommended dose of heartworm preventative medication, again, only the weakest, most vulnerable parasites are killed, leaving the strong to survive and multiply.

Don’t Get Complacent

It’s easy to become complacent about heartworm disease in dogs. You know about it, you dutifully buy a preventative and give it to your dog, you have your dog tested every year, and the test is always negative. This can lull you into feeling like heartworm disease is no big deal. But it is a big deal. And there are factors at play right now that are setting the stage for it to get a whole lot worse (see sidebar, “Why the Heartworm Threat Is Growing,” above). So, don’t get complacent and slip up on your dog’s heartworm prevention. The damage caused by an infection, and the cost and potential side effects of treating an infection, are exponentially worse than the hassle of preventing one.

ProductHeartworm Prevention Component Other MedicationsAlso ControlsHow UsedAge to Start (some weight restrictions)
Heartgard Plus (B-I), Iverhart Plus (Virbac), TriHeart Plus (Merck)IvermectinPyrantel pamoateHookworms, roundwormsOral monthly6 weeks
Iverhart Max (Virbac)IvermectinPyrantel pamoate, praziquantel Hookworms, roundworms, tapewormsOral monthly6 weeks
Interceptor (Elanco), Milbeguard (Ceva)Milbemycin oximeNoneHookworms, roundworms, whipwormsOral monthly4 weeks
Interceptor Plus (Elanco)Milbemycin oximePraziquantelHookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapewormsOral monthly6 weeks
Sentinel (Merck)Milbemycin oximeLufenuronHookworms, roundworms, whipworms, fleasOral monthly6 weeks
Sentinel Spectrum (Merck)Milbemycin oximeLufenuron, praziquantel Hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms, fleasOral monthly6 weeks
Trifexis (Elanco)Milbemycin oximeSpinosadHookworms, roundworms, whipworms, fleasOral monthly8 weeks
Simparica Trio (Zoetis)Moxidectin Sarolaner, pyrantel pamoateHookworms, roundworms, fleas, ticksOral monthly8 weeks
Advantage Multi** (Elanco), IMOXI (Vetoquinol USA), Parasedge Multi (Virbac), Midamox (Norbrook)MoxidectinImidacloprid Hookworms, roundworms,whipworms,fleas, ticks, sarcoptic mange mites, microfilaria**Topical monthly7 weeks
ProHeart 6 (Zoetis)MoxidectinNoneHookwormsSubcutaneous injection by veterinary professional every 6 months6 months
ProHeart 12 (Zoetis)MoxidectinNoneHookwormsSubcutaneous injection by veterinary professional every 12 months12 months

Are Retractable Dog Leashes Bad?

By
John Strassburger
-
0
If this photo makes you shudder, you’re not alone. This is a classic “accident waiting to happen” moment. Credit: Jenna Ardell | Getty Images

Here’s the thing that the various makers of retractable leashes don’t want you to know: They can hurt you – and your dog – and the bigger the dog and retractable leash, the more likely the chance of injury.

Does that mean retractable dog leashes are bad and unsafe? We think so.

Common Retractable Leash Injuries

There are two main ways retractable dog leashes can hurt you. The first is the whiplash effect that’s caused when your dog reaches the end of the 16-foot line (or 26-foot line) at full speed. The force of that sudden deceleration can crush your dog’s larynx, bruise or strain the muscles in his neck or chest, or badly hurt you – from whiplash to fractures, depending on whether you fall down or not.

And, if you manage to drop the retractable leash, that heavy handle you hold on to will whip its way back to the dog, potentially injuring the dog or scaring the dog – especially a puppy! – enough that the dog takes off running only to be “chased” by the leash.

The second kind of injury is caused when that long leash wraps around something, like a person’s legs, which may cause that person to fall. And if that person isn’t related to you – well, get ready for the lawsuit. That’s why they aren’t allowed at some veterinarian’s offices, stores, and at many dog events.

A Standard Leash Is Much Safer

Too often, dog owners either willfully or absent-mindedly don’t pay attention to what their dog is doing at the end of their 16-foot retractable leash, and so the dog gets in a fight with another dog or wraps his leash round a person’s leg or an immovable object and trips someone. That’s why some communities have banned them completely. It’s why Mounds Pet Food Warehouse of Wisconsin banned them at its five stores.

Walking is great exercise for you and your dog. The purpose of retractable leashes is to give your dog more freedom to roam and explore, but doing it safely requires proper walking training and great care. That’s why most dog trainers and animal behaviorists recommend using a standard six-foot leash to walk your dog.

Statistics on Retractable-Leash Injries

From 2001 to 2018, the American Journal for Emergency Medicine tracked injuries requiring emergency room treatment related to retractable dog leashes, and they found those injuries increased by four times. Of those, 193,000 were from pulling and 136,000 were from becoming entangled. The most common injuries were fracture, strain or sprain, or contusion, usually from the leash breaking.

On his website, Dr. Garret Pachtinger of Philadelphia, a board-certified emergency/critical care veterinarian and the co-founder of VetGirl, a continuing education site for veterinarians, says the most common injuries he sees from retractable leashes are a neck strain or a displacement of a vertebra from the dog suddenly pulling hard and fast, or a variety of injuries when a person falls because the leash has wrapped around their leg(s).

Dogs can also suffer eye injuries if the leash breaks; they can suffer torn larynxes from pulling too hard; dogs have jumped to their deaths or run into traffic after pulling the leash from their handler’s hand and then fled blindly in terror because they thought something was chasing them.

If you must have a longer leash for your dog for a particular outing or event, buy a long-line regular leash, not a retractable. “It takes some skill to manage long and light lines without turning them into a knotted mess, but it’s worth the effort,” says Whole Dog Journal Training Editor Pat Miller.  You need the right leash for what you are doing with your dog.

Heart Murmurs in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
-
0
Veterinarian examining cute puppy
Most puppy heart murmurs do not shorten life expectancy. Credit: Zoranm | Getty Images

Many dogs with heart murmurs have no symptoms. Most heart murmurs in dogs are picked up by the veterinarian during routine physical exams on apparently healthy, asymptomatic dogs and puppies. Many heart murmurs in dogs will never cause a problem. For those that do, medications can help.

Heart Murmurs in Puppies

Benign or “innocent” murmurs in puppies do not shorten life expectancy. There are, however, some cardiac birth defects in puppies that are bad. These puppies will not thrive, and many will not survive without surgical correction of the defect. Thankfully, these cases are few and far between.

Treatment

Most dogs with heart murmurs can live long and healthy lives, but it depends on how early the murmur is identified and how carefully the dog is monitored.

Monitoring dogs with heart murmurs includes frequent physical examinations and echocardiography at least once a year. The earlier any evidence of heart disease is identified, and treatment initiated, the longer the dog will live, with many surviving five years or more.

From Murmur to Congestive Heart Failure

Congestive heart failure (CHF) is what happens most commonly when a heart murmur in a dog becomes problematic. Watch for these symptoms:

  • Cough: Usually a soft, wet-sounding cough from the chest, may be worse after lying down or first thing in the morning
  • Difficulty breathing: Heavy breathing, rapid respiratory rate, anxious panting, distressed appearance.
  • Exercise intolerance: Doesn’t want to go for walks or quits after a short time; walks take a lot longer than usual as the dog cannot walk as quickly as before.
  • Restlessness when laying down: Fluid builds up in the lungs when the dog is inactive so the dog may shift positions frequently to find the position that best helps him breathe.
  • Bluish or grayish color to the tongue and gums: Due to the low blood oxygen levels that occur when the heart no longer efficiently pumps blood through the lungs and body.
  • Low energy/fatigue
  • Fainting/collapse

CHF Treatment

Treatment for CHF in dogs typically include varying combinations of medications to move fluid out of the lungs (diuretics); medications that make it easier for the heart to pump blood through the vessels (blood pressure drugs); and pimobendan, an inodilator that both strengthens the heart muscle and dilates blood vessels, significantly improving overall cardiac function.

Dog Eye Ulcer

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
0
A dog eye ulcer is a seriour concern that needs treatment.
This dog appears to have an ulcer in his right eye. A fluorescein stain will highlight areas of damage so the veterinarian can get a better look. Credit: F.J. Jimenez | Getty Images

Early signs of an eye ulcer include your dog squinting one eye. The eye may appear “cloudy” and is painful if you try to examine it. The conjunctiva may be red, with tearing or even a pus-like discharge.

While it could be a scrape or an ulcer—a scrape is superficial while an ulcer is deeper—any eye problem can go from minor to severe very quickly. Get to the veterinarian immediately. Some ulcers can go right through the cornea if not treated.

Treatment

Your veterinarian will verify the corneal damage with a fluorescein stain and then send you home with antibiotic eye drops and/or ointments. This is intensive care. The medications must be applied multiple times a day, so you may have to leave work to do it. Many dogs will need to wear a cone to protect the eye in case they try to rub. Note: Recent research shows PRP therapy may become an option for treating ulcers in the eye.

Healing Stages

As the cornea becomes clearer, the redness will fade away. Your dog will stop squinting and obviously feel better as the pain recedes. The ulcer is healing.

You may notice some red lines on the cornea. While the cornea itself does not have blood vessels, during the healing process, blood vessels migrate across the eye bringing nutrients and oxygen.

Most superficial corneal ulcers heal in a week or less, but you should continue to treat it as directed by your veterinarian until a vet recheck shows that the injury is healed.

Serious Ulcers

Severe corneal ulcers may require surgical treatment. Your veterinarian may gently scrape the surface to encourage healing or even pull up some conjunctival tissue or the third eyelid as a flap to provide a physiological bandage for the injured area.

Special contact lenses can be placed to aid in healing as well. Even with surgery, an injured eye will need frequent topical treatments. Oral antibiotics may be added to the treatment regimen.

When Can Puppies Leave Their Mom?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
0
Dog birth
Nursing is a factor in deciding when to wean a puppy, but momma dog does a lot more for her puppies than just feed them. Taking a puppy away from the mom too soon is not good for anyone, especially the puppy. Credit: Jodi Jacobson | Getty Images

A mother dog provides more than milk to her puppies, so be patient while waiting for your new family member. The decision on when to wean a puppy involves more than determining how long a puppy should nurse.

The ideal nutrition for very young puppies is mother’s milk. The longer they can nurse, the longer they get that perfect food. Some puppies will nurse up to 8 weeks or longer if mom allows it. If she can’t nurse for any reason, the breeder will use a puppy milk replacer to be sure the pups get a balanced diet.

When Do Puppies Stop Drinking Milk?

Puppies start to get teeth in at about 3 to 4 weeks of age. At that point, it can become uncomfortable for the pups to nurse. The dam starts to spend more time away from the pups, often cutting back their nursing time on her own.

Many breeders start to offer food as a slurry at this age to compensate if the bitch cuts back. With a big litter, this is especially important as the nutrient drain on the mother is high. Most pups will continue to nurse a bit along with taking semi solid food until 5 to 7 weeks of age. Puppies who are hand-raised often shift to “real food” right about 3 weeks old.

Remember to provide water as well. With the shift to solid food, puppies need liquid.

The Decision to Wean Puppies

The time with mother and siblings is incredibly important for puppy social development. Puppies should stay with their dam until 8 weeks of age, and many breeders will keep puppies until 10 weeks of age or older, if a toy breed. (One study equated puppy cuteness with weaning time.)

While the puppies may no longer need their mother for nutrition, behavior input is extremely important at this time. The dam will discipline interactions and model behavior with and toward people and other dogs. A good mother will play with her puppies and provide support in new situations. Don’t rush this important time in a puppy’s life.

Why Is My Dog Twitching in His Sleep?

By
John Strassburger
-
0
Beautiful purebred jack russell terrier.
Dogs twitch and dream while sleeping, just as we do. Credit: Evrymmnt | Getty Images

Dogs twitch in their sleep. You may have even be awakened by your dog whimpering and moving his legs, as if he were chasing something. This lasts for 10, maybe 15, seconds; your dog takes a deep sigh; and then he goes back to a sound, peaceful sleep. This is simply twitching, not a seizure.

But, still, you may wonder, “Why does my dog twitch in his sleep? Is this normal?”

The answer is, yes, it’s normal. Most mammals–including humans–dream, according to what was called a landmark study in 2001 at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The study used rats, but it was groundbreaking.

Further research shows that not all mammals dream. Only predators sleep deeply enough to dream. The mammals they prey on stay alive by not sleeping so deeply that they can’t sense movement or hear a twig break.

Mammalian sleep consists of three phases: wakefulness (when they first go to sleep and are easily aroused), the rapid-eye movement phase (the phase of deep sleep, when dogs and humans dream), and the non-rapid-eye movement phase.

The rapid-eye movement phase usually happens about 20 minutes after your dog falls asleep, and you can tell the dog has entered this phase by seeing his eyeballs move, his legs twitch or move, and taking shorter breaths. That’s because he’s dreaming.

And this is the phase in which legs twitch or lurch and in which they can have night terrors. These are most common in puppies and old dogs, because the pons – the part of the mammalian brain that controls large-muscle movement – is not yet fully developed in puppies or is decaying in old dogs, according to research by Dr. Stanley Coren, professor emeritus at the University of British Columbia. You can read more in his book, “Do Dogs Dream? Nearly Everything Your Dog Wants You to Know.”

Other research shows that large dogs, like German Shepherds or Great Danes, are a bit more likely to have vivid dreams or night terrors than small dogs, like Dachshunds or terriers, because they tend to have longer, more complete dreams.

What Do Dogs Dream About?

If we accept that dogs do have dreams, that leaves us to wonder what do they dream about?

Dog behaviorists at the American Kennel Club say that dogs don’t have the imagination that humans do, so their dreams cannot include monsters or frightening events that haven’t really happened.

They say that a dog’s dreams are likely an interpretation of events that have previously happened. They’re that dog’s memory of losing his bone, of another dog taking his food away, or of a fun walk he took last month.

That means that night terrors are your dog having a bad memory. He’ll likely whimper, or even bark or howl. His eyes could twitch or roll. The large muscles of his shoulders and hindquarters may twitch, his legs could even move as if he’s running.

You’ve heard the expression, “Let sleeping dogs lie.” It comes from moments like these. When a dog is having a night terror, he’ll probably awaken startled and disoriented, which could cause him to lash out and unintentionally bite or scratch you.

So it’s best to leave him alone until his dream ends. Don’t worry – he’ll be OK.

How Often Should You Brush Your Dog’s Teeth?

By
Cindy Foley
-
0
Dog and toothbrush in white background, concept of pets dental hygiene
Start by letting the dog lick the toothpaste off the brush. The whole trick to getting to where you can brush your dog’s teeth is to progress slowly and reward him with lots of treats. Credit: photoboyko | Getty Images

Everyone should brush their dog’s teeth every day. It even helps with a dog’s bad breath! If you need more motivation than that, regular brushing can save huge (huge!) amounts of money later by avoiding expensive, painful dental surgeries and tooth extraction. Although daily brushing is statistically proven to make the most difference, as the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) advises, any brushing is better than no brushing. If weekly is all you can manage, that will still help your dog.

Keeping your dog’s teeth brushed regularly helps avoid tooth loss, heart disease, diabetes, and sinus problems that are caused at least partially by bad dental care. Dogs also get periodontal disease just like we do, from neglected teeth. Periodontal disease painfully destroys the bone and gums that hold the teeth in place. A dog with painful teeth won’t eat well, if at all.

Toothbrush Choices

It’s best to choose a brush made for dog, but many people successfully use a child’s toothbrush on a small dog and an adult toothbrush for a larger dog (soft bristles only). Pay attention to the size of the brush you choose. An oversized brush will be uncomfortable for a little dog, and a tiny brush will be inefficient for use on a larger dog. Always clean the brush and allow it to dry out thoroughly between brushings, just like you do your own. Note: The finger brushes really don’t work well.

Dental Chews

The VOHC list of approved products includes some dental chews. While some people may scoff at the effectiveness of dental chews, a study published in the Journal of Veterinary Dentistry disagrees: “Adding a dental chew to the diet results in statistically significant reductions in plaque and calculus accumulation, and oral malador while improving gingival indices.” In other words, dental chews help.

Use Toothpaste for Dogs

Toothpaste made for dogs includes enzymes that help destroy bacteria in the dog’s mouth. Bacteria is what promotes plaque, and plaque hardens into sticky, destructive tartar. The enzymes in the toothpaste are powerful. A few dogs who absolutely refuse to allow a toothbrush in their mouth can be helped at least somewhat if you can just rub the toothpaste on their gums. Again, daily is preferable.

Usually the toothpaste is flavored, and most dogs like it. (Human toothpaste is made to be spit out, not swallowed; never use human toothpaste for your dog.) Try to choose products that are accepted by the VOHC because that means there is proof that the products work.

Technique

Start slowly, and be patient. Let the dog lick the enzymatic toothpaste off the brush—if that’s all you can do, that’s fine for a start. If you can get the brush in the dog’s mouth, just brush a few of the dog’s teeth. don’t fight him. Be gentle. Reward your dog frequently and richly with treats and praise. For a thorough lesson on technique, watch this video from the University of California, Davis, Veterinary School.

Finally, when you brush your dog’s teeth, pay special attention to the outer surface of the upper teeth, cheek side, which accumulates a great deal of tartar. “Dental plaque and tartar accumulate most rapidly on the buccal (cheek) surfaces of the upper teeth,” according to the VOHC.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
-
0
Dog barking at a Cat, cambering up a Garden Fence
If your dog is barking, there’s a reason. And, while this is a trespassing cat, could as well be wild animal or human. Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

A dog’s bark might not communicate specific information, but research indicates that barks can reflect the emotional state of the dog. A study on hunting dogs found that a dog’s bark can vary depending upon what they see in the field. For example, say the researchers, the most distinctive barks were produced during encounters with the most dangerous animals, such as the wild boar. It pays to listen to your dog’s barking.

Dog Barks Vary

Sometimes barks can be emitted singly, but often are  repeated in chains that are noticed by humans. Some dog breeds do less of what is classically thought of a bark and have other sounds in their vocal repertoire, such as the Beagle’s bay, the Husky’s howl, and the Pug’s alien scream.

It’s true that some breeds of dogs that are known to bark more, including Shetland Sheepdogs, Australian Shepherds, Pomeranians, Yorkshire Terriers, and Dachshunds. If you are interested in a quieter breed, consider the Basenji, Chow Chow, or Greyhound.

Types of Dog Barks

Barks can vary in pitch and the duration of the vocal outburst in different situations. Contexts for dog barking include:

  • Fear – Strangers, loud noises
  • Alert – Someone’s at the door, the dog in the yard next door is outside, the stray cat just walked across the yard
  • Anxiety – At home alone, not enough attention, not enough exercise
  • Work – Dogs trained in protection are taught to bark in specific circumstances (police dogs, guard dogs), some herding dogs bark when moving or protecting livestock
  • Excitement – Play, anticipation (food, freedom)

Do Dogs Bark for Attention?

If you own a dog who barks excessively, consider whether the dog’s needs for attention, exercise, and environmental enrichment are being met. Chances are good that they are not. Work with a certified fear/force-free trainer to develop a behavior modification program that will reduce your dog’s reactivity in specific situations, such as guests at the front door.

Camping With Your Dog

By
CJ Puotinen
-
0
Dog sitting outside pitched tent with Tent Seebensee in background
With their incredible noses, our dogs are aware of much more going on in our surroundings than we are. On a camping trip, observe your dog carefully – and look where he’s looking, or in the direction he’s sniffing. You will likely observe far more wildlife and birds than you were able to detect without your canine companion. Photo by Westend61, Getty Images.

Camping with a dog, with or without an extended family, can make your experience extra fun or stressful. Here’s how to prepare for overnight adventures with your dog in the great outdoors.

Start with research

Search online for “dog friendly campgrounds” and you’ll find family installations, state and national parks, and RV parks in addition to the wilderness and your own neighborhood. Study a map or guide to your destination’s layout and amenities (including fenced dog parks or play areas), and. Campgrounds that allow dogs often have regulations and leash requirements – and may have restrictions on certain breeds. For a relaxing experience, make reservations early and organize your route to accommodate frequent rest stops.

It’s a great idea to locate the nearest emergency veterinary clinic to your destination, and keep its contact information handy. Snake bites, porcupine encounters, and heatstroke are just some of the potential hazards of camping that might necessitate a rapid trip to a vet; it helps to be ready.

Last but not least, check the weather forecast, so you’re prepared for rain showers, freezing or extreme heat, and other impactful weather conditions.

Get your dog ready

Schedule a veterinary checkup and discuss your plans with your vet to be sure the destination and planned activities are appropriate for your dog. Dogs can get lost on camping trips, so a microchip (registered with your current information), ID tag with your cell phone number, and current photo are recommended. Bring a correctly sized harness, spare leash, and other up-to-date equipment. If your dog needs a training refresher, practice loose-leash walking, recalls, and other basics before you leave. Aggressive dogs are not permitted at pet-friendly campgrounds, so consider leaving your dog home if travel, other dogs, new people, and unfamiliar surroundings create stress and reactive behavior.

Pack for your dog

Start a checklist so you’ll have the essentials, including food, water, and treats; prescription medications, if any; bedding; extra towels; pickup bags; and other equipment like a grooming brush, doggy daypack, rain jacket, paw protection, first-aid kit, outdoor dog toys, and a stake or tether. Bring an extra copy of your dog’s health records. Keep these items in a separate pack or bag.

Be ready to provide shade and shelter from hot summer sun with a canopy, a designated area in your tent, or portable crate.

Practice before you go

To prepare yourself and your dog for the trip, add extra walks, longer walks, and loose-leash walking to your daily regimen. If your dog doesn’t already spend time outdoors, start hanging out in the yard or nearby parks. If your dog doesn’t interact much with other dogs, set up play dates or visits to dog parks to help her feel comfortable around fellow canine campers. If you’re going to spend the night in your car or RV, make the back seat or dog sleeping area comfortable with familiar blankets, pillows, favorite toys, and a spill-proof water bowl.

If you’re camping in a tent, set it up in your back yard, keep your dog secure on a leash, prepare your own and your dog’s dinner just as you will on your trip. You might also invite friends to join you and spend the night with your dog in the tent or car or RV, making the experience as realistic as possible. This way you can address potential behavior challenges, or, at the least, help your dog acclimate to sleeping outdoors before you’re dealing with an aroused, wide-awake dog while surrounded by other sleeping campers.

With careful planning, you and your dog can enjoy a safe, fun, rewarding vacation and create a lifetime of camping memories.

Boundary Training

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
3
dog winter portrait
We do not recommend the use of shock collars, or, as they are euphemistically called by the shock collar manufacturers, “electronic collars.” Some dogs respond to shock with serious unwanted behavioral side effects, such as fear-based aggression – and there is no way to know if your dog will be one who develops life-long behavioral side effects until after you’ve tried it. Photo by Anna Orsulakova, Getty Images.

Yes, it’s possible to train a dog to stay in your yard. But you must accept the fact that this training cannot be relied on to prevent your dog from leaving your yard if faced with something that’s tempting enough. Nor will it protect your dog from being attacked by another dog or wild animal, nor stolen by an admiring passerby. A physical fence is the best protection from all of these threats!

Even with these limitations, however, training your dog to stay within certain boundaries is a worthwhile project – especially in those neighborhoods with homeowners’ associations that prohibit fences. Just understand that you must ask for this behavior only when you are present, so you can take immediate steps to retrieve or protect your dog if needed.

We recommend approaching this training goal like any other behavior: by using positive reinforcement to teach the dog where we want her to be.

Boundary Train Your Dog

Here’s how to boundary train the force-free/pain-free way:

  1. Mark the corners of your yard with stakes. Attach a long rope (or ropes) around the perimeter to create a visual barrier.
  2. Have a selection of high-value treats in your treat pouch.
  3. Attach a long line to your dog’s collar or harness. Walk around the yard with her on a loose long line – no pressure on her collar – but short enough you can restrain her if she’s about to cross the boundary.
  4. Choose a new cue that means “stop and come back” – one specific to the boundary – not one you already use for training. Some suggestions: “Edge,” “Fence,” “Wall,” “Brink” – anything you want, it doesn’t have to literally mean “boundary.”
  5. Walk with your dog near the barrier. Anytime she approaches the rope use your cheerful “Fence!” cue and feed her a tasty treat. Soon you’ll see her perk up and look at you when you say “Fence!”
  6. Gradually move farther away from the boundary. When she approaches the edge, give your cheerful “Fence” cue and run a few steps toward the interior of your yard (away from the boundary). You want “Fence” to mean “Stop what you’re doing, come get your treat and have a party!” – similar to a happy recall. In time you’ll easily be able to ask her to move back from the border, and eventually you may not have to call her back at all – she’ll know to stop of her own accord. (You can still reward with a treat!)
  7. Next, add distractions – such as a person walking by – then try it without the long line.
  8. When she’s very solid, gradually lower the rope barrier, then remove it altogether (or leave it up if you want!).

With your very useful boundary cue installed you can be in your unfenced yard with your dog off leash and be reasonably confident she’ll stay in the yard, perhaps with an occasional “Fence!” reminder. Just remember: You should not expect this to work when you aren’t present. Sooner or later there’s a distraction tempting enough to compel almost any dog to cross that line.

Yorkshire Terrier Dog running on the green grass
You can teach your dog to stay in your unfenced yard, but you should expect to use this cue only when you are present. Photo by Yevgen Romanenko, Getty Images.
No shock collars

We do not recommend the use of any collar-based “training” systems, whether a buried wire or GPS is used to establish the boundary. The manufacturers have tried countless ways to convince people that these devices don’t hurt the dog, but face facts: They wouldn’t work at all if they weren’t painful – and no amount of pain can prevent some dogs from running through the shocking boundary zone if they are motivated enough. Countless stray dogs turn up in animal shelters wearing those devices. There’s currently a class action lawsuit filed in a California Federal court against Radio Systems, manufacturer of the PetSafe shock collar, in which the plaintiff claims the company falsely markets the collars as safe and harmless to use on animals, when they in fact harm pets.

Fido, Clean Your Room!

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0
The more toys your dog has, the more useful it will be to teach him to put them all away! Photo by Anda Stavri Photography, Getty Photos.

Are you tired of finding dog toys strewn across your house? You can teach your canine pal to pick up his toys using “shaping” and “back-chaining.” Shaping involves breaking a behavior into very small steps. You train starting with the smallest step and build to the full behavior. Back-chaining links a series of behaviors together, starting at the end of the chain and working backward. Here’s how to use these training techniques to teach your dog to put his toys away:

  1. Select a receptable for your dog’s toybox. Put his toys in it and place it in an accessible spot.
  2. Pick up a favorite toy and hold it over the center of the box. When he glances at it, “mark” the behavior with a reward marker, such as the click of a clicker or a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!”) and then give him a treat.
  3. Continue to mark and treat any attention to the toy, very gradually raising the criteria for which behavior you mark and treat. For example, after several repetitions of marking and rewarding your dog for glancing at the toy, hold out for a few moments longer, waiting for your dog to move his nose toward the toy a little – then mark and reward that. After he does that a few times, hold out for a little more movement toward the toy. Eventually he’ll touch the toy for a mark and treat. (For more guidance on this, see “Raising Criteria,” below.)
  4. When he consistently touches his nose to the toy, raise the criteria again. Now he must open his mouth a little. Then a bit more, and more, until he takes the toy in his mouth.
  5. Next, let go of the toy when he takes it. Mark, and when he drops the toy to take the treat – Voila! – it drops into the toybox. Milestone!
  6. Begin adding a toybox-specific cue such as “Clean up!” just before you offer the toy, continuing to repeat Step 5.

Now for the back-chaining part:

  1. After numerous repetitions of Step 6, gradually move the toy closer to the edge of the box. As you get close to the edge of the box, only mark/treat if the toy actually lands in the box. You’re helping your dog realize he must get the toy in the box to earn his treat.
  2. When he’ll deliberately move the toy to make sure it lands in the box, offer it just outside the box edge, then gradually farther away from the box.
  3. When he’ll drop the toy in the box from a few feet away, begin offering the toy to your dog with the toy held close to the floor, eventually setting it on the floor before you give your “Clean up!” cue.
  4. Last step – add a second toy, then a third and more, until he’ll pick up all his toys and put them away for you.

Congratulations, you’ve done it!

Raising Toy Box Criteria

Be sure to slowly raise the criteria that earn your dog a mark and reward. If you raise criteria too quickly, your dog no longer gets reinforce; he’ll think the game is over and will likely quit. Behaviors that aren’t reinforced extinguish, and you don’t want to do that!

It’s helpful to write out a shaping plan with many small increments in the program. Attain multiple repetitions at each step in the plan, and when you are ready to raise criteria, do it on an intermittent schedule of reinforcement. This means that when your dog offers his Step One behavior, you don’t mark, but rather wait to see if he offers a little more. If he does, mark and treat the “more” behavior, and then go back and mark/treat several repetitions of Step One before holding out again for a little more. Raising criteria gradually and continuing to randomly reinforce the lower-level behavior keeps your dog engaged and working. That’s what you need and want.

Your Kindness Is So Appreciated

By
Nancy Kerns
-
32
He didn’t actually walk on water – but he was a very good dog. Photo by Nancy Kerns

As one could predict, I was a bit of a mess last week. Making the euthanasia appointment for my beloved Otto, and being with him until it was time for the final injection, was just impossibly hard. It was the second-guessing that was most torturous – wondering at the moments when he seemed to be doing well whether this was the right decision.

I’ve had several friends whose dogs were suddenly stricken with a condition that either killed them or had an impossible prognosis, making immediate euthanasia the only rational choice. Is it bizarre to say that, as Otto passed his 15th birthday, I started to wish for such an event, a crisis that would take the “Is this the right time?” euthanasia decision out of my hands? But no such event occurred; I had to take full responsibility to decide whether and when Otto’s bad days were outnumbering his good ones. Making life-or-death, suffering-or-release decisions should be difficult, but man, was it taxing. And over the course of the week following I did all the things that humans tend to do when overwhelmed with grief: locked my keys in my car while getting ready for an early-morning walk with Woody and Boone (fortunately at home, where my husband was available to help sort this out once he woke up), couldn’t eat, then ate too much, burst into tears at random moments . . .

Maybe not completely random. Some of the puppies I haven been fostering for the past six weeks for my local shelter had neuter surgery and were up for adoption at the shelter. Two days after my husband and I buried Otto, I was training some new volunteers at the shelter when a young couple and their five-year-old daughter came in, looking for a puppy of a small-to-medium size to adopt. I raced to gather “my” puppies for them to meet in the shelter’s “get acquainted room”– I was disappointed that none of them had been adopted the first day they were available, and any one of them would be perfect for this family. Happily, the family chose one of the pups, and I got to see them preparing to carry him out of the shelter – the whole goal of my fostering and volunteering efforts, right? I said, “Wait! Let me say goodbye!” and I ran over to hold his little face in my hands and kiss him on the nose and say, “Be a good dog! Have a good life!” But then my face immediately crumpled and I barely choked out the words, “Thank you!” before rushing out of the shelter lobby, tears flowing. I wanted that adoption to happen – I practically forced them to take one of the puppies! – but the whole idea of just launching that little life out into the world with unknown people and an unknowable future … it just overwhelmed me for a minute.

People’s kindness also is overwhelming when you’re feeling raw. I would be perfectly functional, and then would receive a text or call from a friend saying, “I’m so sorry to hear about Otto!” and BOOM, the tears would flow freely again. I had cancelled a dog-training class I was supposed to teach the day before Otto’s appointment, and, early this week, thanked the class for accepting the postponement of that session. After class, some of my students (a couple) handed me a gift bag that held a bottle of wine and a fine chocolate bar – and immediately, again, I could barely choke out my thanks. They said, “We know what it’s like, we’ve lost some fine dogs over the years, it always hurts!”

All of your comments and messages, too – thank you, I so appreciate your kind remarks and remembrances of some of Otto’s early exploits. I have been reading them in short spurts, because it’s so emotional. It’s obvious that you guys get it, you’ve been there. Many of you shared stories about your own lost, sainted dogs, and those stories are painful and wonderful, too.

When we make the decision to love a dog, most of us expect to outlive them; the difference in our usual lifespans makes our surviving their death an almost certain event. We know what we’re getting into – that we’re signing up for some future pain – from the outset. And the more we love them, and the more that they love us, the more pain we can expect! So, I’m rolling with all of it – the sudden face-crumpling, on-and-off crying jags, and even the locking-my-keys-in-the-car moments – in memory and celebration of my very good dog. Thank you for allowing me to share him with you for all of these years, and for your appreciation of him, too.

1...777879...397Page 78 of 397
© Belvoir Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved.