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Puppy Essentials: How to Prepare for a New Puppy

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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new puppy
This is the moment the family is excited for: bringing home the new puppy! The first hours, days, and weeks in her new home will pass most smoothly – and the relationship will get off to the best start – if the family spent the previous few weeks preparing for the big day. Photo by Kathy Callahan

It’s the most exciting moment for any dog lover: a new puppy is coming! Advance preparation will make your pup’s introduction to her new life easier for both of you.

Plan With Your Puppy Care Professionals

As soon as you start thinking about getting a puppy, find and engage your puppy care professionals:

  • Veterinarian: If you don’t already have one, find one! A current veterinarian shortage means many veterinary clinics aren’t taking on new clients. Be sure they follow Fear-Free protocols, including allowing you to always stay with your pup during clinic visits.
  • Trainer: Enroll in a puppy socialization class as soon as possible – and plan ahead, because classes may fill and force you onto a waiting list that causes your puppy to “age out” of the most beneficial socialization window. The American Veterinary Society of Veterinary Behaviorists says puppies can start puppy classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age, and that life-threatening risks of under-socialization far outweigh the very minimal risk of exposure to germs in a well-run puppy class. Find an experienced trainer who is a member of and/or certified by organizations that follow science-based, force-free philosophies.
  • Walker/Sitter/Groomer: Be sure these professionals are bonded and insured, members of professional organizations, and also committed to force-free handling – especially because they’ll often be caring for your dog in your absence.

Puppy House Rules

Bringing your new pup home can be stressful for canines and humans alike. Agreeing on routines before the pup arrives and ensuring everyone follows them makes the transition easier for all. Consistency and predictability are very important for stress-reduction in all species. Here are some things to decide before the new pup sets paw in your home:

  • Collar, leash, harness, a bed or two, crate, exercise pen, baby gates, a lot of toys, training treats, food and water bowls – all your supplies need to be in place before that bundle of puppy love walks through the door.
  • What kind of food will you feed (do your research!)? Pups are usually fed three times a day; who will feed each meal? Where will she be fed?
  • Where will your puppy sleep? We recommend nighttime confinement to a crate or exercise pen in someone’s bedroom, to minimize puppy stress and possible isolation or separation distress or anxiety. Same bedroom every night (consistency!) and that person is willing to get up at 2:00am when the pup needs to go out.
  • Exercise, enrichment, and training. These are critically important to raising a mentally and physically healthy, well-mannered adult dog. Start now – waiting until the pup grows up is too late! Decide which family member(s) are responsible for seeing that these needs are taken care of daily.

Is everything in place? Got all your ducks in a row? Now go get that puppy and love her to pieces for the rest of your lives together!

Dog Cone Alternatives For Post Op

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dog lying on floor wearing pet cone
You do want your dog to be happy and comfortable in the collar, so if a softer version gets the job done, that’s the one to choose. Credit: Cathy Hawkins | Getty Images

Disclaimer: If you purchase items through links on our site we may earn a commission.

Traditionally, your dog is sent home after surgery wearing an Elizabethan collar, which is a stiff plastic tall cone that goes around the dog’s neck. Sometimes called a “dog surgery collar or e-collar,” this e-cone attaches to the dog’s collar and prevents him from licking the surgical site and removing stitches or infecting the wound. But, you may prefer to use an alternative for the e-collar.

These hard plastic dog surgery collars are not be best for your dog’s happiness. According to a 2020 study from the Sydney School of Veterinary Medicine, published in Animals, most alternatives are preferable to the Elizabethan collar. The researchers found over 77% of the participants reported a poorer quality of life while the animal wore the collar.

Some dogs bang into walls, furniture, and everyone in the house. They have trouble figuring out how to eat or drink. A few dogs will panic. Other dogs get depressed. And a few just freeze in place. It’s not a happy situation.

Luckily, there are commercial alternatives for these uncomfortable dog surgery cones and a few nifty homemade dog cone alternatives that may better suit your dog.

Homemade E-Collars

You can devise homemade/DIY versions of the Elizabethan collar. A rolled towel duct-taped to hold its shape like a donut collar may work for some dogs. Many dogs find it more comfortable than the plastic cone.

You can also thread pool noodles on a collar as a DIY cone alternative if you’re willing to do the work. You will need the correct size for your dog and be sure he can’t reach around it, but this can be an inexpensive alternative to a store-bought donut.

Some people take cardboard and create a cone using duct tape. The drawback is that it can be difficult to put on and to remove and you need to choose cardboard that the dog can’t bend, rip through, or lick enough that it weakens. The cardboard still limits vision, however, and is as unwieldy as the e-collar.

If you like the commercial neck wrap/brace option below, you may be able to fashion one out of cardboard, but be sure to pad the edges with cloth or foam to prevent rubs. With this design, your dog can’t tear or lick the cardboard, but he might be able to bend it.

Commercial E-Collar Alternatives

Golden Retriever wearing inflatable E-Collar lying down inside a home
A donut collar doesn’t restrict vision and probably just feels like a fat collar to most dogs. But, it should be the right size to stop the dog from reaching around to chew at the incision. Credit: Cmann | Getty Images

Not surprisingly, most dogs seem to prefer alternatives that don’t interfere with vision. Donut collars, like the Kong Cloud Collar, are popular with people and dogs alike, as they are like a bulky regular collar that snaps into place around the dog’s neck.

A taller, thinner option is a neck wrap/brace like the Bite-Not that stops the dog from reaching around and chewing on himself. He can still see without obstruction, eat, drink, and be comfortable. Be sure to get the proper fit.

Softer versions of the traditional dog Elizabethan collar, like the Comfy Cone, are more comfortable than plastic but still stand up and keep the dog from reaching around it. However, dogs can’t see through the Comfy Cone, and this can be a drawback.

For dogs that don’t need a major deterrent, a more flexible, softer version of the e-collar, like the ElizaSoft might work. It gives the dog more neck movement, but it’s wide enough that he can’t reach around it. It may be too wide for some dogs, however, causing them to step on it.

If you have a basket muzzle, like the Baskerville muzzle, you can use that. This muzzle will stop the dog from chewing at his stitches but still allows him to breathe freely, pant, eat treats, and drink water. Be sure to acclimate your dog to wear the muzzle before his surgery, however.

The Goal Matters

All recommendations depend upon getting the right size for your dog. Whatever you use, it must prevent your dog from turning his head so he can reach the incision. It must be safe—so he can’t injure himself trying to remove it or get caught on something when walking around.

dog in plastic cone
Most dogs accept the old plastic Elizabethan collar, but a strong study shows that they would prefer something more comfortable that doesn’t restrict vision or bump into everything. Credit: Tim Scott | Getty Images

Expect trial and error, knowing that if you don’t figure out an alternative collar ahead of when you need it, you will have to use the one the veterinary clinic sent. If you get the alternative collar before you take the dog in, you can ask a veterinary staff member to help you ensure it is properly fitted to your dog.

If your dog is going to be recovering in it for more than a few days, you’ll need more than one recovery device/collar/suit, so you can wash and dry one while he wears the other.

Remember, you cannot leave the dog unattended or just “keep an eye on him” after surgery. For more depth on commercial options, see our article here.

A note about sprays and ointments that claim to deter licking wounds are available: First, they don’t stop all dogs; second, get your veterinarian’s OK before you use anything on a fresh incision.

The Suit Alternative to Dog Cones

A popular alternative to cones is a post-op surgical/recovery suit. The suit covers the incision and prevents your dog from licking or chewing the incision. Many companies make these suits, and they’re washable and reusable. The best dog onesies have snaps in the areas of the penis or vulva and the anus so you don’t have to take the suit off when the dog needs to go outside. We compared suits in our dog recovery suits review.

For little dogs, a baby/toddler onesie can work as a surgical suit. Take some measurements of your dog before you go to the store, especially if baby clothes aren’t your thing. For bigger dogs, you may be able to adapt a kid’s or adult T-shirt or long sleeve shirt for an inexpensive version.

Think About It

By
Nancy Kerns
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1
scared shelter dog
At least think about whether your dogs could actually thrive, in a home other than yours if the unthinkable happened to you.

If something happened to you, would your dog be welcome in (and able to fit into) someone else’s home and family?

If something happened to you, what would happen to your dog? Do you have a commitment from someone in your life to keep him for the rest of his life? And, here’s the kicker: Would that person be happy to have your dog join her family, or would it be a hassle?

I was thinking about this in relation to a blog post (“Straight Talk for Senior Adopters”) I recently wrote. In that post, I mentioned that senior dog owners have a special responsibility to make sure that they have made arrangements for their dogs in case of their deaths – as well as a responsibility to make sure that their dogs are healthy, socialized to others, and well behaved, so they will be welcome and cherished, not unhappy burdens, to their new owners. It shouldn’t have been a surprise that a number of people pointed out in the comments that people of all ages should do these things – and they are right! People die unexpectedly at all ages.

But I was thinking about dogs I have met at the animal shelter where I volunteer – dogs whose elderly owners died and who had no one step up to take them into their homes and families. I was present for one heartbreaking handover in the lobby of the shelter: A woman brought her father’s dog to the shelter for surrender after he passed away, saying that she lived in a “no pets allowed” apartment complex, and what’s more, she had small children, and the dog was terrified of kids and had bitten them. Well, the dog was terrified of everyone; I would guess that no one besides the deceased person had touched the dog in years, if not the dog’s entire life. While I’m sure the man who died had not planned on dying, he hadn’t done the dog any favors by failing to habituate her to other humans. In a shelter environment, it was going to be a long, hard journey to get her to accept contact with, much less trust and love, another person. But I couldn’t fault the daughter, either.

At least think about whether your dogs could not just fit in, but actually thrive, in a home other than yours if the unthinkable happened to you. Maybe you already have a commitment from someone to take in your dog if you died – but does your dog have behavior issues that would be difficult for your designated person to manage? If you have the sense that there’s no one else you know who would put up with your dog’s reactivity to other dogs, barking, leash manners, or whatever, consider putting some time and effort into addressing those issues, for your dog’s sake!

Morning (and Evening) Meds

By
Nancy Kerns
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9
dog pills
(Not shown: midday meds)

What you see in the photo here are the morning meds. I thought it was bad that all three of my dogs are currently receiving daily medication; then I was prescribed something, too!

Last week, I had to have oral surgery – a molar that was anchoring one half of a bridge had its root canal go bad and it had to be removed. So, the yellow pill on the left is my antibiotic, to be taken three times daily for a week.

The blue pill is 7-year-old Woody’s current antibiotic, to be taken twice a day. In February, he broke yet another toenail – it seems like he breaks one at least once a year! It was a bad, high break, leaving his quick completely degloved – and of course it got infected. He had to go see the vet and get on antibiotics about a week after the broken nail was treated. It was healing well, and the new nail was almost all the way covering the now-toughened quick, when a little abscess surfaced on the side of his toe near the base of the nail – a little pocket of infection that had survived the previous antibiotic. So now he’s on a new one – for two weeks this time. He’s nearly done with this round of antibiotic and the toe and its nail is looking really good – but he’s having a mystery lump surgically removed from his thigh as I write this, and I’m not sure whether he’ll be sent home with more antibiotics or what. I’ll find out this evening!

The pill-and-a-half are antibiotics for 1-year-old Boone! Yes, three individuals in my home are on three different antibiotics at the moment – not a great advertisement for fighting antibiotic resistance. I’m waiting to hear whether Boone has tested positive for a tick-borne diseases (TBD) – the tentative diagnosis for the symptoms he displayed a couple of weeks ago for the better part of a day (as I described here), and then again for an entire day a week later. My vet feels pretty certain that his waxing and waning symptoms could be caused by Lyme or another TBD – and fortunately for Boone, vets are more inclined than doctors for humans to proactively dose dogs suspected of having a TBD before getting a positive test, just based on symptoms and an exposure to ticks. Boone was exposed to ticks the day before his first “sick day” – and I found and removed two engorged ticks from him later that week.

One of the hallmarks of Lyme disease and other TBDs is that, if treated promptly, the symptoms often resolve very quickly once the doxycycline (the most effective antibiotic for treating most TBDs) has been started. I’m hoping beyond hope that Boone’s lack of symptoms over the past 11 days (as I write this) is due to the fact that he did have a tick-borne infection and we caught it quickly.

The last set of pills are for 15-1/2-year-old Otto. Thank goodness, no antibiotics for him! That’s his morning Tramadol (given twice a day) and Gabapentin (three times a day). He gets a different set at midday: more Gabapentin, an NSAID, and an acid reducer for his chronic acid reflux.

All of this pill administration has made for some very alert and attentive kitchen dogs, who come crowding around every time they see me reach into the refrigerator for the canned food that I bury their pills in. And all I can say is that they are more alert than me; as far as I can recall, I’ve only given the wrong pills (Boone’s doxycycline) to the wrong dog (Otto) once. UGH! I knew it was wrong the moment Otto slurped the gob of canned food out of my hand – but he’s gotten so pushy for his thrice-daily dollops of canned food, and he’s the only one who never gets chastised or sent to the back of the line for this behavior.

You may ask: Why do I have my own antibiotic lined up on the cutting board with the dog meds? Because while I never forget the dogs’ pills, in the first couple of days after having my tooth pulled, I kept forgetting to take mine! Putting my pill bottle alongside theirs is the only way I can be certain to take my own meds. If that sounds lame – well, at least I haven’t taken any of their meds yet!

Your Dog’s Chipped or Broken Tooth

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
broken dog tooth
This canine tooth sustained more than a little chip in a collision with another dog at high speed; it broke nearly in two. While the dog did not exhibit any signs of pain, veterinary dental x-rays showed that the pulp of the tooth sustained damage and the tooth had to be extracted. Photo by Nancy Kerns

A chip or break that exposes a tooth’s pulp – the sensitive tissue that contains the tooth’s nerves and blood supply – will cause obvious discomfort. This calls for urgent care – not necessarily a trip to the after-hours emergency veterinary hospital, but not something that can be put off for weeks, either.

Your dog might exhibit one or more of the following signs of a broken tooth with exposed pulp:

  • Reacting to hot or cold temperatures (including drinking cold water) with pain
  • Avoiding chew toys
  • Declining to eat treats like hard biscuits
  • Refusing food altogether
  • Chewing on only one side or more carefully than usual
  • Drooling an abnormal amount for that dog
  • Pawing at their mouth
  • Shying away when the face is petted

These symptoms require a dental checkup, because left untreated, broken teeth with exposed pulp can become infected and lead to degeneration of the jawbone. A tooth with exposed nerves will usually be treated with extraction or a root canal. Vital pulp therapy may keep a recently fractured tooth alive if the patient is under 18 months of age.

Chipped teeth without symptoms

Not all chipped teeth crack or expose the pulp. Dogs might chip a tooth when catching a flying disc, running into something during high-speed play, or smacking into a dashboard when riding unsecured in a car that had to stop suddenly. Even if the chip is small, and your dog doesn’t display any signs of pain or discomfort, it’s a good idea to make a non-urgent appointment with your vet to take a look at the chip. The chip might need to be smoothed to keep from irritating your dog’s lips or tongue– and your vet stands the best chance at getting a good look to make sure the chip isn’t going to lead to a cracked tooth.

How Much Exercise Do Dogs Need?

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
A man and trail running
Dogs of breeds that were originally developed to hunt or herd tend to thrive on high-mileage exercise plans, making them great partners for jogging or hiking. Photo by Jordan Siemens, Getty Images

Your dog’s age, overall health, and breed define her exercise sweet spot. Puppies and young adults need more exercise while older, ill, or injured dogs need extra down time for rest and recovery. Start gradually when beginning any exercise program with your dog.

Sporting, working, and herding breeds need the most exercise, 1 to 2 hours a day. Terriers, scent hounds, and breeds known for speed thrive on 60 to 90 minutes of movement.

Both toy breeds and giant breeds tend to be less active – they benefit from up to an hour of relaxed walks or gentle games of fetch. Twenty to 30 minutes of slow movement is recommended for brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, French Bulldogs, and Shih Tzus, whose smaller airways interfere with physical activity.

Don’t neglect mental exercise

Black Woman Walking Dog in Park
Overweight, senior, and bracycephalic dogs (like Pugs, Bulldogs, and French Bulldogs) are best exercised in the cooler part of the day and at a slower pace. Photo by SeventyFour, Getty Images

Physical activity helps dogs relax, but so do find-it games, food-dispensing puzzles, and trick training. Include whatever your dog most enjoys in your daily schedule.

How can I tell if my dog needs more exercise?

If your dog is over-excited on walks, restless around the house, barking and whining indoors, play-bowing or trying to initiate play while you’re trying to relax, and unable to relax at night, he’ll probably benefit from longer walks or runs.

What helps older dogs with exercise?

If arthritis slows your older dog, especially if she’s overweight, a weight-loss diet can help. Two or three exercise sessions per day are more comfortable for older dogs than long single sessions. Your veterinarian may prescribe medication or pain-reducing supplements. Low-impact activities, such as swimming or the use of an underwater treadmill, can help older dogs stay in shape without discomfort.

My Dog Ate a Mushroom in the Grass

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
So your dog ate a mushroom. What happens now.
If you witness your dog eating a wild mushroom and there are more of the mushrooms in the area, pick one or two or at least take some clear pictures of the mushrooms. If your dog begins to exhibit symptoms of poisoning, having a sample or a photo to identify the fungus will be helpful. Photo by Avatarmin / Getty Images

So your dog ate a mushroom in the grass before you could stop them. What now? Thousands of mushrooms grow in the United States, and only a few are toxic to dogs – but those that are can be fatal. Here’s what to do if your dog eats a wild mushroom.

Can you identify the mushroom?

Most wild mushrooms are harmless to dogs, and if your dog swallows a “safe” one, he should be fine. But if your neighborhood hosts toxic mushrooms, protect your dog – especially your curious, omnivorous puppy – from the dangers of unsupervised exploration.

Not sure if the mushrooms in your backyard are “safe”? There are numerous apps available to help you; just search for “mushroom identification” in your app store so you can identify the wild mushrooms in your area.

The most important factors in treating your dog will be:

  • What is the mushroom species your dog ate?
  • How much did your dog consume, and when?

Experts recommend treating your dog’s consumption of any wild mushroom as a medical emergency unless you can positively identify it as harmless. Otherwise, call your vet or a 24/7 poison control center immediately.

  • ASPCA Poison Control Center, (888) 426-4435, $65 consultation fee (this is discounted if you have ASPCA pet health insurance).
  • Pet Poison Help Line, (855) 764-7661, $85 consultation fee.

What are the symptoms of mushroom poisoning?

Poisonous mushrooms can be life-threatening even in small amounts because their toxins damage the kidneys, liver, and neurological systems, producing symptoms such as:

  • Excessive drooling
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Increased thirst, drinking, and urination
  • Weakness or lethargy
  • Trouble breathing
  • Loss of coordination
  • Seizures
  • Loss of consciousness

How is mushroom poisoning treated?

Slowing the absorption of mushroom toxins is crucial, so if less than two hours have passed since your dog swallowed a mushroom, your veterinarian may induce vomiting or use activated charcoal to bind with and remove toxins from the stomach. Hospitalization, IV fluids, and other supportive care may help prevent the progression of symptoms.

Prevention is your best strategy

Check your back yard and areas where your dog enjoys walking or playing for wild mushrooms and remove any that you find. Keep dogs on leash where mushrooms grow and train your dog to drop items like sticks and mushrooms on cue.

Syncope Episodes in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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Staffordshire Bull Terrier dog lying on his side on grass smiling, looking at the camera taken at ground level. He is looking at the camera.
Neurocardiogenic syncope (also known as vasovagal syncope) have a syncopal episode during a period of exercise or excitement, or following a bout of coughing, gagging or vomiting. Photo by CBCK-Christine, Getty Photos.

Watching your dog have a seizure or an episode of syncope can be a scary experience, and these events can look very similar. We discussed seizures and their causes here. But the causes and treatment of syncope episodes are different, so it is important to know how to tell them apart.

Syncope:

  • Syncope episodes are often preceded by excitement, exercise, or coughing.
  • Dogs who have a syncope episode will lose consciousness and fall to one side.
  • Their limbs may become stiff and rigid and they may briefly cry out.
  • Sometimes their limbs may convulse once or twice.
  • They may urinate or defecate during the episode.
  • Syncopal episodes typically last only a few seconds, after which the dog will regain consciousness and act like nothing happened (extremely short recovery).

Seizures:

  • Seizures are typically not preceded by excitement or exercise.
  • Seizures may be preceded by a pre-ictal phase, also known as an aura.
  • During a tonic-clonic seizure, a dog’s limbs will repetitively convulse (not just once or twice, as with syncope).
  • Their jaws will rapidly clench and relax and they may foam at the mouth.
  • They may involuntarily urinate and defecate.
  • After the seizure has occurred, dogs will experience a post-ictal phase. During this phase, dogs may be confused or disoriented and they may either be restless or extremely sleepy (slow and prolonged recovery).

Any dog who is having seizures or syncope should be evaluated by their veterinarian as soon as possible. Taking a video of the event with your smartphone and sharing it with your dog’s veterinarian can help to differentiate if your dog is having seizures or syncope.

Causes of syncope in dogs

The most common cause of syncope is a sudden and temporary interruption of blood flow to the brain. Both structural and electrical abnormalities of the heart can cause a sudden reduction in the amount of blood the brain receives.

Syncope is more common in senior dogs than younger dogs, because the problems that cause syncope become more common as dogs age.

Structural abnormalities of the heart inhibit the heart’s ability to contract and move blood forward through the body. These problems can be congenital, such as heart valve defects of the pulmonic or aortic valves. Some structural abnormalities – including dilated cardiomyopathy and arrhythmogenic right ventricular cardiomyopathy (ARVC) – are not present at birth but are more likely to develop in certain breeds of dogs. Genetically inherited dilated cardiomyopathy affects primarily Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, and Boxers. Both Boxers and Bulldogs can be affected by ARVC.

Structural cardiac abnormalities can also be acquired as a result of heartworm disease, mitral and tricuspid valve disease, or pulmonary hypertension. A condition called pericardial effusion, an accumulation of fluid between the outside of the heart and the inside of the sac that surrounds the heart, can also syncope, by increasing the pressure on the heart muscle and impairing its ability to contract.

Electrical abnormalities of the heart impair the movement of electrical impulses that originate in a cluster of cells in the right atrium and travel through the atria and ventricles. Without proper electrical impulses, the heart may not completely contract with each beat. This is called an arrhythmia. Arrhythmias can cause a temporary impairment of blood flow to the brain.

Diagnosing the cause of syncope

If your veterinarian suspects that a heart condition is causing your dog’s episodes of syncope, she may order diagnostic tests that examine your dog’s heart structure and electrical function. These may include thoracic radiographs (chest x-rays), an electrocardiogram (ECG), and an echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart).

Some arrhythmias are intermittent and may not be seen on an ECG in the veterinarian’s office. If your dog’s veterinarian suspects that your dog has an intermittent arrhythmia, she may order a Holter monitor for your dog. This device records the electrical activity of your dog’s heart over a 24-hour period.

A Holter monitor for dogs is similar to a Holter monitor for people. Small areas on your dog’s chest are shaved and ECG patches are applied. The ECG patches are connected to the Holter monitor via a set of wires. Your dog will wear a special shirt to cover and protect the ECG patches. The shirt includes a velcroed pouch that contains the Holter monitor, which is no bigger than a deck of playing cards.

You will be asked to complete a log of your dog’s activities over the 24 hours that your dog wears the recording device. At the end of this period, the Holter monitor and your dog’s activity log are submitted to a veterinary cardiologist for interpretation.

There are several medications that can help your dog’s heart work more efficiently when there is an abnormality. The key is finding the correct diagnosis so that the appropriate medications can be prescribed.

Other causes of syncope in dogs

Low blood sugar, acute blood loss, and severe dehydration can also cause syncope. Hypoxemia (low levels of oxygen in the blood) caused by severe lung disease, acute onset of profound anemia, or a congenital defect of the heart called a shunt may result in syncopal episodes. These conditions can also lead to seizures if left untreated.

There is a condition called neurocardiogenic syncope (also known as vasovagal syncope) in dogs. The condition is not well understood as of this writing. Dogs with this condition have a syncopal episode following a bout of coughing, gagging or vomiting or during a period of exercise or excitement. The current theory is that pre-syncopal activity causes an abrupt drop in heart rate and blood pressure, resulting in an interruption of blood flow to the brain. As with certain cardiac arrhythmias, a Holter monitor may be necessary to diagnose the underlying cause of neurocardiogenic syncope.

There are many causes of syncope in dogs. But the frequency of syncopal episodes can be reduced or even eliminated once the underlying cause is properly diagnosed and treated.

SyncopeSeizure
Collapsing onto their side✔✔
Stiffness of the limbs✔
Arching of the neck and back✔
Crying out✔
Paddling of the limbs✔✔
Involuntary urination or defecation✔
Frothing at the mouth✔
Rapid clenching and unclenching the jaw✔
Disorientation after the event✔
Coughing, gagging, vomiting, excitement, or exercise immediately before event✔

Why Do Dogs Lick Each Other?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Close-Up Of Dogs
Dogs lick each other as a way of socialization and submission, but physical problems, fear, or anxiety may also need to be considered, especially if the licking behavior increases. Credit: Rachel Haines – Eye Em | Getty Images

Dogs explore the world using their incredible sense of smell and their tongues. Licking is an established dog behavior, and at least one study has linked it to the release oxytocin, a hormone commonly called one of the “happy” hormones. So, licking makes your dog feel good.

Licking is also an important method of communication. In Psychology Today, Stanley Coren PhD., DSc, FRSC, said: “For dogs, licking can communicate information about relative status, intentions, and state of mind, but it is most frequently a peacemaking or pacifying behavior.”

Why Do Dogs Lick Faces?

We know that female dogs lick their puppies at birth to stimulate elimination and to clean them.

But why do dogs, often unrelated, lick each other’s ears, mouths, and faces? Research holds many viable theories. Among the most common beliefs is that it’s a way of appeasement or calming. German animal behaviorist Angelika Firnkes’s 2016 study published in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior found that licking their own lips may be a way of canine appeasement when greeting another dog or a person.

There may be a physical reason, too. A 2012 study published in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior found a relationship between dogs who obsessively licked surfaces and internal gastrointestinal disorders.

Dog Licking Behavior

Puppies lick their dams around the mouth to stimulate vomiting up partly digested food, begging for food, and for submissiveness. The overall body language of a submissive dog is a lowered body, ears back, coming up to the mouth. Adult dogs who do a lot of this are often low on the totem pole in the household.

The University of Bristol Veterinary School cautions that an increase in licking activity may be a message that the dog is experiencing anxiety or fear. Look closely at what’s happening when the licking begins to see if you can determine why the dog is licking. If you suspect anxiety or fear, your veterinarian can prescribe medication to help.

Why Does My Dog Lick Other Dogs’ Ears?

As we’ve noted, licking may be a social, or pack, behavior. From the veterinary standpoint, physical causes also may a reason. Some licking may be stimulated by blood due to an injury or the smell of an infection. Oral infections could also attract licking due to the odor, so it may not be just ears.

Of course, licking around the mouth could also be opportunistic if the dog being licked has food residue around his muzzle.

Some veterinarians think dogs simply like the taste of ear wax or discharge. Ear wax is believed to be a little salty, and it includes dead skin cells, dirt, and other debris. If the dog with the wax-laden ears seems at all painful, that dog should be seen by your veterinarian to rule out illness and so you can learn more about cleaning your dog’s ears.

If your dog is licking other dogs as a way of socializing, and you don’t see any indication of fear, it’s OK.  If the dog who is being licked doesn’t seem well, your licking dog may have just given you a heads up to a brewing infection or injury.

How to Get a Tick Out

By
Editorial Staff
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0
What do ticks look like on dogs, depends on the type of tick and how long it has had to eat.

HOW TO REMOVE A TICK

I have heard countless methods for tick removal: Paint a tick with nail polish and it will detatch from the dog to avoid being suffocated. Touch a just-extinguished match to the tick’s body so it pulls itself out. Pull while turning the tick clockwise. No – pull while turning counter-clockwise! All of these tactics are ineffective; don’t do any of them!

It’s actually quite simple: Just try to get a good grip on the tick, as close to the dog’s skin as possible, and pull it straight out. Notice that I said simple, not easy. Ticks are tiny. Your dog may be squirming. If his coat is thick, it might be hard to isolate the tick in your grip. You may end up pulling, or being impeded by, his hair, too.

And if your fingers are thick, you run the risk of squishing the tick between them as you pull, which can result in squeezing the contents of the tick’s mouth and guts into your dog! Ack! That actually increases the chance of infecting your dog with any disease-carrying spirochetes that the tick might be hosting!

Tweezers can be used more effectively than your fingers, but they, too, pose the risk of squeezing the tick and squirting that potentially pathogenic-filled tick spit into your dog’s body. Instead, use a tick pulling tool with a V-shaped slot. Slide the tool between your dog’s skin and the tick’s body, wedging the tick’s body into the tightest part of the tool’s crevice. When you feel that the tick is securely lodged in the slot, pull upward on the tool and – pop! The tick comes right out.

WHAT TO DO AFTER YOU REMOVE IT

After you remove the tick, clean the bite area with soap and water, hydrogen peroxide, or alcohol. Cleaning the wound – regardless of how small – will reduce the risk of secondary bacterial infection.

Schedule bloodwork to check for any tickborne diseases. It takes several weeks for most tick-borne diseases to be detectable on blood tests, so there is no need to rush your dog to the vet unless he starts to show clinical signs of illness. The most common include fever, lethargy, and lameness.

The ticks are lying in wait, so order your copy of Ticks And Canine Lyme Disease today!

How to Keep a Dog From Eating Everything He Sees

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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1
Woman is walking with a small cute obedient Jack Russell Terrier dog in the autumn forest
You want your dog to be able to sniff and explore on your walk – after all, that’s his fun – but you need to be able to call him off if he grabs something he shouldn’t. Credit: K. Thalhofer | Getty Images

If your puppy is trying to eat everything he sees on walks, or your dog is scavenging on walks, it’s more than annoying. It’s downright dangerous. Dogs can ingest something toxic or swallow things that could cause an intestinal blockage in the blink of an eye. Constantly nagging your dog or yanking on him and pulling him away will not stop him from eating dumb stuff. Yelling at him often results in him swallowing his prize as quickly as possible.

The best way to stop your dog from eating everything he sees is to teach him the “leave it” cue. This will take some time and patience, but it’s totally worth it. While you’re training, however, your best bet for a dog who insists on constantly eating on walks is a muzzle, so we’re going to discuss that first.

Using a Muzzle

A muzzle is the safest option for dogs who eat everything in sight; it’s the most reliable way to keep your dog or puppy safe. It is extremely important, however, that it is the right type of muzzle.

The only muzzles that are safe to use while out on walks are basket muzzles. Basket muzzles are loose-fitting with large openings allowing for panting, drinking, accepting treats, and the safe expulsion of vomit should that occur. See “Dog Muzzles: When to Use Them and How,” for information on muzzle fitting and introducing and accustoming your dog to wearing one.

Teach Your Dog to “Leave It”

Portrait of a large adult male rottweiler dog muzzled and kept on a leash
A basket muzzle allows your dog to sniff, drink water, eat a treat, and breathe comfortably. It just stops him from grabbing something he shouldn’t. Credit: Noella Raymond | Getty Images

With your dog protected by a muzzle on walks in the interim, start your “leave it” training sessions in the house. There are too many distractions outside of the home. Your dog or puppy needs to be able to focus while learning a new behavior and cue.

Start simply by having a yummy treat in the palm of your left hand. When your dog tries to take it, don’t say anything. Simply close your palm so he can’t get it. Once he stops nudging, pawing, licking, or anything else to get at the treat, quietly open your palm. If he comes back at it, close your palm. Keep doing this until your dog doesn’t go after the treat when your palm is closed. Mark this with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!” and feed him a treat from your right hand. Repeat this until you’re sure he understands that the way to get a treat is to refrain from trying to take it from you!

Next, put the treat on the floor. If the dog goes for it, quickly cover it with your foot. Repeat the same process you did for the palm treat until you’re sure your dog understands it.

Add the Words “Leave It”

Next, you will say, “Leave it!” and drop the treat on the floor. It’s important at this stage to do everything you can to make sure the dog doesn’t accidentally get to the treat. If he tries, be ready to stomp on it. Once he “leaves it” (backs away and/or looks at you), mark and reward him with something else from your pocket or treat pouch. Make this reward something else yummier and juicier than what he agreed to “leave.” Repeat this process until you’re sure your dog is rock-solid with this new behavior on cue. (For a more detailed protocol, see “How to Teach a Dog to ‘Leave It’ and ‘Drop It.’”)

Walking Without Eating Stuff

Now you can graduate to trying it out on your walks. Bring some treats you’ve used both for him to “leave” and for his rewards. Practice outside the same as you did in the house to cement his understanding.

Finally, go ahead and try it out on real-life encountered items, like that discarded sandwich remnant or rotting pigeon carcass. Be sure to congratulate him heartily if he is successful with “leaving” these high-value items! Have a big party and give him a jackpot of yummy special treats for being such a good, smart dog!

Signs of Heart Disease in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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0
Identifying early signs of heart disease in dogs can get your dog needed treatment early.
If you think your dog’s cough indicates heart disease, get a veterinary examination. Early intervention nets the best prognosis. Credit: Subman | Getty Images

The most common type of heart failure in dogs is congestive heart failure, which is left-sided heart failure. The left side of the heart receives the freshly oxygenated blood and sends it back out to the body. If the left ventricle can’t pump enough blood, fluid can begin to back up in the lungs and other parts of the dog’s body. This may produce the signs of heart disease in dogs that you can recognize.

How do you know if your dog has heart disease? If you see these general signs – weakness, lethargy, lack of appetite, difficulty breathing, everyday walks take longer over the same route – something is wrong with your dog.

Symptoms of Congestive Heart Failure (CHF) in Dogs

A heart disease cough is a real sign of left ventricle heart disease, but a cough alone is not enough to indicate heart failure in your dog. A heart disease cough can be loud and honking like a cough due to tracheobronchitis (kennel cough) because, as the heart fails, it begins to enlarge due to blood backing up. When that happens, the heart muscle must work harder and sometimes starts pushing up on the trachea, inducing a tracheal cough. But that cough might be just kennel cough, too. A thorough physical examination and chest x-rays can usually solve this conundrum.

Signs of left-sided heart failure in dogs include:

  • Changes in the dog’s breathing
  • Heart disease cough
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Restlessness
  • Discomfort lying down
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Lack of appetite
  • Collapse

Noticeable Signs of Heart Failure

If a dog is battling heart failure, you may notice that his respiratory rate elevates as his body tries to get more oxygen. Normal respiratory rate is less than 30 breaths per minute (bpm). Monitoring your dog’s sleeping respiratory rate is a good way to catch CHF in its earliest stage. If it rises above 35 bpm and stays elevated, have your dog examined by a veterinarian.

This is especially important for dogs with heart murmurs, as murmurs significantly increase the risk of developing CHF in dogs. Breathing will eventually become labored, which looks like your dog is pulling hard to get air in and to get air out. It typically involves noticeable pushing from the abdomen.

You also may notice a change in how long it takes to complete your walks. A route that used to take 30 minutes now takes 45 minutes. This may be an early indicator of exercise intolerance. Sometimes it’s more obvious. Your dog just quits on your walk; sits or lies down, usually panting/breathing hard, and refuses or is unable to continue.

Right-Sided Heart Failure in Dogs

The right side of the heart receives blood coming back from the rest of the body and sends it to the lungs. When the right side begins to fail, fluid backs up in the body. You may notice:

  • A big, swollen, fluid-filled belly (abdominal effusion)
  • Increased respiratory effort because of the swollen belly
  • Fluid accumulating around (not in) the lungs (pleural effusion)
  • Swelling of the lower limbs that shows your fingerprint when you press on it (pitting edema)
  • Restlessness
  • Discomfort lying down
  • Weakness
  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite

Catch Heart Failure in Dogs Early

If you notice any subtle changes along these lines, the sooner you have your dog examined and begin a heart disease medical treatment plan, the longer and more comfortably your dog will live. Annual wellness exams are a great way to catch signs of heart disease in dogs as early as possible.

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