To make Addison’s treatment affordable, many caregivers purchase compounded fludrocortisone from a compounding pharmacy. The compounded version is much more cost-effective for larger dogs than brand-name Florinef. Most dogs who receive Percorten-V injections and about half of those who take Florinef require a small daily oral dose of inexpensive prednisone as well.
Other money-saving strategies include giving shots at home to avoid having to pay for an office visit for each injection, purchasing medications online at a discount with help of veterinarians willing to write the necessary prescriptions, or negotiating with veterinarians to keep office visit costs to a minimum.
For more information on the diagnosis and treatment of Addison’s disease, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Addison’s Disease.
Veterinarians sometimes recommend a low protein food for their canine patients. Make sure you understand whether your dog needs a dog food with low protein, or a very low-protein prescription diet, available only from your veterinarian or with your veterinarian’s prescription. Low-protein prescription dog foods often contain less protein than the minimum required for over-the-counter foods. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Has your veterinarian told you that you should buy a dog food that’s low in protein for your dog? If so, there are some things you should understand about dog food with low protein.
While protein is vital to a dog’s health for energy and to support the dog’s vital organs, skin, hair, tendons, ligaments, muscles, and more, many dogs are prescribed low-protein diets. In dogs with kidney issues, a reduced protein intake can alleviate some of the workload on the kidneys. Other medical conditions, such as chronic gastrointestinal upset or liver disease, also may benefit from restricted protein intake. However, there is dog food that is low in protein, and there is dog food with really low protein.
What Is a Low Protein Dog Food?
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) guidelines set a minimum protein percentage of 18% for adult maintenance and 22.5% for dogs of all life stages (ALS, which includes growth and reproduction), on what’s called a dry matter (DM) basis (more about that in a minute).
Diets with a protein concentration below the legally required minimum levels for most dogs must be prescribed by a veterinarian. The dog food with the lowest protein level you can purchase without a prescription is 18% protein on a dry matter (DM) basis. (This is how much protein is in the food with the product’s moisture removed.) But the prescription low-protein dog foods contain far less than that; some contain as little as 13% or 14% protein.
Before you buy, you need to know whether your vet wants your dog to be fed a prescription low-protein dog food, or just a lower-protein dog food? Because, besides the legal minimum for most dogs, there are no definitions or standards for what are considered low-protein diets, diets with moderate protein levels, and high-protein diets. And many foods that contain high-quality ingredients may contain twice as much protein as the legal minimum, or even more! Most veterinary nutritionists consider the following ranges for protein on a DM basis:
Low protein: 20% or less
Moderate/Normal: ~25%
High Protein: 30% or higher
So: Does your dog need a diet that has prescription-low levels of protein, or just an amount of protein that’s on the lower end? It likely depends on the severity of the health problem that your veterinarian is trying to address.
What to Look for in a Low-Protein Dog Food
When looking at low-protein diets, prioritize high-quality, highly digestible protein sources. These include animal-based proteins, such as meat and eggs, which tend to have optimal amino acid profiles and are highly digestible by dogs. With these sources, dogs will get the most benefit out of the smaller amount of protein they consume. You should see these ingredients listed among the first five ingredients.
The Difference Between Dry Matter and “As Fed” Nutrient Levels
All dog food labels list the product’s minimum protein and fat and maximum fiber and moisture in the guaranteed analysis. These numbers are referred to as the “as fed” values – meaning, as the product exists in the bag or can. In contrast, nutritionists prefer to discuss a food’s nutrient levels on a dry matter basis, so they can compare nutrient levels in diets with varying amounts of moisture in them. Dry matter values consider the nutrient concentration in the food if all the moisture were to be removed. The higher the moisture content, the lower the as-fed protein will be because the water in the food “dilutes” the nutrient concentration.
Most dry dog foods contain a maximum of 10% moisture. To determine the protein content of a food expressed on a dry-matter basis, subtract the moisture content of the food from 100 to get the dry matter factor. (If the food contains 10% moisture, the dry matter factor would be 90.) Then, divide the as-fed protein percentage by the dry matter factor; the result is the amount of protein on a dry matter basis.
Converting As-Fed Protein Levels to Dry Matter Protein Levels
Food Type
% Moisture
Dry Matter Factor
Protein %
As Fed
Doing the
Math
Protein %
Dry Matter Basis
Dry Food
10%, 90
16.2%
16.2÷90 = 0.18
18.0%
Dry Food
10%, 90
20%
20÷90 = 0.22
22.0%
Dry Food
10%, 90
25%
25÷90 = 0.27
27.0%
Dry Food
10%, 90
30%
30÷90 = 0.33
33.0%
Dry Food
10%, 90
35%
35÷90 = 0.38
38.0%
Dry Food
10%, 90
40%
40÷90 =0.44
44.0%
Canned Food
78%, 22
4.0%
4÷22=0.18
18%
Canned Food
78%, 22
6.0%
6÷22=0.27
27%
Canned Food
78%, 22
10.0%
10÷22= 0.45
45%
Canned Food
78%, 22
15.0%
15÷22= 0.68
68%
Don’t Go Too Low
Be careful choosing your dog’s protein level. Protein is vital to your dog’s health and going too low can cause physical problems like muscle loss and weakness. In a healthy dog, excess protein is simply excreted in the urine.
Low-protein diets should not be fed to growing puppies, highly active dogs, or pregnant or lactating dogs. Protein is important for dogs who are growing, have higher protein requirements for muscle maintenance and repair, or have higher nutritional needs. In the absence of specific health issues, healthy adult dogs generally do well with a balanced diet containing moderate protein levels.
If your dog is suffering from health issues, be sure to work with your veterinarian to find a diet that has the appropriate levels of protein given their current health status.
Low-Protein Prescription Diets for Dogs Have Very Low Protein Levels
Diets that have been formulated with very low protein levels are available only with a veterinarian’s prescription and should be fed under the guidance of a veterinarian. These foods should not be fed to puppies, growing dogs, or pregnant or nursing females. Also, they should not be fed for years and years, as they contain less of the protein that has been determined to be the minimum required for dogs.
The following are prescription low-protein foods for dogs, with their protein content expressed on a dry matter basis. Your dog may not require a prescription low-protein diet; an over-the-counter dog food with a lower-protein content may be therapeutic enough.
Hills Prescription diet k/d with chicken Protein min 15.6% DM
Hills Prescription diet k/d + j/d chicken flavor Protein min 15.9% DM
Hills Prescription diet u/d Protein min 13.8% DM
Royal Canin Canine Urinary UC Protein min 20.0% DM
Royal Canin Canine Urinary SO Protein min 18.0% DM
Addison’s disease, called “The Great Pretender,” is often misdiagnosed because it resembles so many other illnesses. Patients with Addison’s are often erroneously diagnosed as having gastrointestinal diseases such as inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), infections, parasites, cancer of the gastrointestinal tract, or poisoning. Acute renal failure, liver disease, urinary blockage, pancreatitis, insulinoma, hyperparathyroidism, and protein-losig enteropathy are other common misdiagnoses.
The most dramatic Addison’s symptom is the endocrine emergency called Addisonian crisis. This occurs when the dog goes into shock due to circulatory collapse, and it can happen so quickly that a healthy looking dog is suddenly, within a few hours, close to death.
For many dog owners, the crisis is their first sign that something is wrong. About 30-35 percent of dogs with Addison’s are initially diagnosed during a crisis.
For more information on the diagnosis and treatment of Addison’s disease, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Addison’s Disease.
A short, flat, flexible piece of metal inside a plastic box makes a sharp clicking noise when it is pressed, either by the user’s thumb or, for the button clickers, by the button pressing on it.
A dog training clicker is a small low-tech device that makes a distinct and consistent clicking noise. There isn’t any magic to it; on its own, it doesn’t compel a dog to do anything. However, if you consistently follow its use with a food treat (or other salient reward), the dog will quickly learn that the noise predicts something good is coming his way – and what’s more, that he can make the noise (and treat) happen again by repeating whatever he was doing at the moment he heard the click.
When used in this way, the clicker is an example of a reward marker – which can be any consistent signal that allows you to precisely mark the moment your dog does a desired behavior and promises that a reward is coming soon. The advantage of a clicker over a verbal reward marker (such as saying a word like “Yes!”) is that the clicker makes the exact same sound each time you press it. Humans naturally sound more enthusiastic at some times than others, which can inadvertently introduce some concern or confusion for the dog, but the clicker always sounds the same!
Types of Clickers
There are many different kinds of clickers, but most are made with a small piece of metal inside of a plastic box; you press one end of the metal to make it flex, which makes the clicking sound. Some have a button that presses the metal strip instead. Some are just held in the palm of your hand; others have a retractable cord in a holder that you can clip to your waistband or treat pouch; still others have a coiled bracelet that you can wear on your wrist, so you can drop the clicker and still have it handy.
How to Use a Clicker
The trainer holds a clicker in her right hand; she just asked for a Down with a signal from her left hand and clicked the clicker the moment the dog’s elbows came into contact with the ground. Next, she’ll reach into the treat pouch on her belt and give him a treat.
Start by “charging” the clicker. This means teaching your dog that the “click” means a treat is forthcoming. To avoid scaring your dog, start with the clicker in your pocket. “Click,” pause a second or two, and feed your dog a tasty treat. (Be sure to pause briefly; if you move the treat too soon the click becomes irrelevant.) Repeat several times: Click, pause, treat. If the sound doesn’t bother him, put the clicker behind your back for a few more repetitions of click, pause, treat. By now he’s probably perking up when he hears the click because he knows a treat is coming!
Hold the clicker at your waist and click, pause, and treat a few more times. (Note: Keep the clicker still, do not move it toward the dog when you click – it’s not a TV remote!)
Begin marking behaviors that you want to reinforce. Ask your dog to perform a behavior that he knows, such as sit. When he sits, click, pause, and give him a treat. You’re telling him he got the treat for sitting.
If he doesn’t know how to do any behaviors on cue yet, lure him into a desired behavior position, such as sit. Lure him into the sit, click the moment his bottom touches the ground, and give him a treat. Lure him into the sit another couple of times, giving him a click and then a treat each time his bottom touches the ground; then wait a few seconds to see if he will offer a sit without the lure. If he does, click and give him a treat! You should soon see that your dog will do new behaviors that you mark with the clicker more quickly, more easily, and more often. Now you can use the clicker for anything you want to teach your dog!
Is Your Dog Afraid of the Click?
Some dogs are highly sound-sensitive and look concerned or plainly scared at the sound of a clicker. If this is the case, instead using a clicker, you can either use a verbal marker (I tell my clients to just say “click”) or make a clicking sound with your mouth. Some people can make a consistent sort of popping sound by snapping their tongue off the roof of their mouth; others use a sort of clucking sound in their cheek like you’d use to ask a horse to move forward.
Today, “Relax” is a favorite behavior of Iris, a rescued Doberman belonging to North Carolina trainer Trish McMillan, CPDT. Iris used to exhibit an over-exuberant greeting style (often muzzle-punching people in the face), so McMillan taught Iris this behavior as a highly reinforced “incompatible alternative” to those greetings. McMillan reports that Iris has generalized the behavior so thoroughly that she sometimes falls completely asleep, even in formerly stressful environments. Photo by Trish McMillan
The behaviors of relaxing and settling on cue are highly appreciated by most dog owners. Whether you’re fixing your dog’s dinner (or yours), greeting guests at the door, sitting in the lobby at your veterinarian’s office, or driving with your dog in the back seat, if your dog will exhibit a calm “Relax” behavior, it can help reduce stress and make everyone’s day smoother.
But your convenience isn’t the only compelling reason to teach these behaviors to your dog. When dogs learn that the act of remaining calm and still earns them treats and praise – when they learn that you will generously reinforce these behaviors – they will offer them more often.
In addition, when our dogs act calm, they will actually become calmer. Gradually, the physiological state of relaxation will develop as a conditioned response to reinforcement for the outward behavior.
Two Very Useful Calming Behaviors
I teach “Settle” and “Relax” as two separate behaviors:
I use the cue “Settle” to mean the behavior of relaxing while lying down on one hip for an extended period of time – several minutes or longer – on a mat or rug.
“Relax” takes the lying-down behavior one calm step further; I teach Relax to mean “lie flat on your side for an extended period of time.” I know a dog has dependably learned this behavior when she falls asleep shortly after being cued and rewarded for relaxing flat on her side!
How to Teach “Settle”
This exercise teaches your dog to lie quietly at your side while you are otherwise engaged. It’s a great behavior to practice while watching television; you’re just hanging out anyway!
Sit in a chair with your dog next to you and invite her to lie down with a cue for this behavior. (Although it’s preferable if she already understands a cue for Down, if she doesn’t, you can lure her into the Down. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”)
Mark the moment she lies down (click or say “Yes!”) and give her a treat; then, before she has time to get up, quickly mark again and give her another treat. Note: If your marker tends to excite her, you can just feed the treat without marking. Make sure you feed treats directly to her mouth and low to the floor so she doesn’t stand up to reach the treat.
If she’s not already lying with her weight shifted onto one hip, encourage her to rock onto one hip by moving the treat to the side in a semi-circle toward her ribs.
Do this in small steps (lure-shaping) until she voluntarily rocks onto her hip; if you try to do too much, you risk making her uncomfortable and having her get up. Even worse, you can give her a negative association with the settle process, and then she won’t want to do it at all. For the same reason, do not ever try to physically push her onto her hip.
Most dogs will shift their weight to one side when they reach for a food lure that’s moved in an arc toward their ribs.
Lure-shaping can also be used to teach a dog to lie flat (what we call “Relax”). Mark when her body rolls to the side . . .
. . . then deliver the treat to her in the spot where you want her head to rest, with her neck straight and face against the floor.
Many dogs will settle more easily on one side than the other, so if you’re having trouble getting her to do this, try luring her toward the other side. Repeat numerous times.
When your dog will settle onto one hip easily, say “Settle” just before you lure her onto her hip. Fade the lure (gradually stop using the lure) as soon as she’s easily settling onto one hip. Eventually she will settle when you give the cue, without needing the lure.
Gradually increase the duration of the relaxed-on-one-hip position by increasing the time between treats so she stays down by her own choice, waiting for the next mark and treat. As you decrease the number of marks, substitute calm praise (with no treats) in between the marks/treats. If your click or verbal marker tends to excite her, switch to praise sooner.
When your dog will stay down in the Settle position for 20 seconds or more, start using Settle cue without asking her to Down first.
Continue to decrease your rate of reinforcement (marks and treats) until she can lie quietly at your feet for an extended period with very little reinforcement.
How to Teach “Relax”
You can add Relax to your dog’s repertoire when she does Settle easily and with moderate duration, as this is an even more relaxed position than the rocked-on-one-hip pose.
First, ask your dog to Settle. Then with a treat in your hand, encourage her to roll flat onto one side by moving the lure in a “C” shape toward her ribcage, then up toward her spine. Be sure to roll her in the same direction you already started with the Settle. Again, you will likely need to lure-shape. Many dogs get a little stuck at the point when they actually have to tip over. Be sure to stay within her comfort zone to avoid making her uncomfortable, and again, do not ever try to physically push her onto her side. Add your Relax cue when you can easily lure her onto her side, then work on duration as described in Steps 5, 6, and 7 above.
Use a “Place Mat” for Portable Calm
Make sure to generalize your Settle and Relax cues by practicing these behaviors in a wide variety of different locations.
There is also great value in teaching your dog to settle and/or relax on her own personal “place mat” by practicing the behaviors on an easily portable towel, blanket, or mat that you can transport easily. That way, your dog will develop a strong association with being calm and relaxed on her mat for long periods. Then you can take the mat with you anywhere you go, significantly increasing your likelihood of success with your calm cues when bringing your canine pal with you to dine at an outdoor cafe, watch your child’s baseball game, visit friends, or wait in your vet’s lobby.
MORE RELAXATION TIPS
-Exercise your dog well, and give her time to calm down before you do a Settle/Relax training session. A tired dog will learn to relax much more easily than one who is cranked and full of energy. Once the behavior is well established, you can use these cues to help a rambunctious dog to calm down.
-Play calming music. Remember that the goal is to give your dog a very calm association with her cues (and her mat), and calming music can help do this. (See “Do Dogs Like Music?” for links to calming music for dogs.)
-Teach your dog to breathe. I know, she already knows how to breathe! Karen Overall, VMD, PhD, a veterinary behaviorist and Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB), has a protocol for teaching a dog to take slow, calming breaths (instead of panting), which helps the dog become calm. (For Dr. Overall’s complete protocol, see “Teaching Your Dog Calm, Slow Breathing.”)
Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is fairly common in dogs, but the right therapeutic kidney diet can help slow the progression of the disease, alleviate symptoms, and ensure the dog’s best possible quality of life. Photo by Elena Popova, Getty Images
Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is a common condition that occurs when the kidneys lose their ability to function properly, leading the buildup of waste products and toxins in the body. In dogs, we rely on dietary therapies to help alleviate symptoms and slow the progression of the disease, thus ensuring the best possible quality of life for our companions. A therapeutic diet for dogs with kidney disease has the following characteristics:
Carefully considered amount and quality of protein. Proteins are large molecules comprised of building blocks called amino acids. High quality proteins contain many or all of the essential amino acids that dogs need for cellular repair and the maintenance of lean body mass. Proteins can also vary in digestibility, depending on the source. The protein in egg is considered to be 100% digestible, with meat from chicken, beef, and lamb having a protein digestibility in the 90% to 95% range. Excess protein, or poorly digestible proteins, can lead to the accumulation of protein metabolites in the body, creating more work for the kidneys, which are responsible for the filtration and removal of these waste products. Because of this, dogs with CKD often benefit from a controlled protein intake.
The modification of protein intake has been the foundation for the management of chronic kidney disease for decades, as well as a source of controversy. While the recommendation for any dog suspected of suffering from CKD used to be to transition to a very low protein dog food, the current recommendation for kidney diets is to include moderate amounts of high-quality protein. Using high-quality, easily digestible, protein not only reduces strain on the kidneys, but also supports the maintenance of lean body mass and may help to keep the diet palatable.
Careful and dependable levels of dietary minerals. Controlling the balance of minerals is also recommended in dog foods for kidney disease, namely sodium and phosphorus.
Sodium restriction has been the standard recommendation for dogs with CKD, as diseased kidneys have a reduced ability to filter and excrete sodium in a dog’s body. Excess sodium buildup can lead to high blood pressure, which can further damage the delicate structures responsible for filtration in the kidneys. This is a precautionary measure and is often used in conjunction with medications to lower blood pressure to help preserve kidney health and function.
Phosphorus restriction is crucial when managing CKD, as elevated phosphorus levels can exacerbate kidney damage in dogs. Dogs suffering from CKD lose the ability to filter and excrete phosphate, which causes in increase in their production of parathyroid hormone. The release of this hormone in excess is correlated with the progression of kidney disease and also leads to hyperparathyroidism, so restricting the intake of phosphorus is vital for our dogs suffering from CKD.
Foods that can contain high levels of phosphorus include bones, organ meats, dairy, and muscle meats, among others. Because of this, it is important to ensure diets are formulated to keep phosphorus levels in mind and the consumption of bones and antlers should be minimized.
Added Omega-3 and Limited Omega-6 fatty acids. The omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) have renoprotective qualities and decrease inflammation in the body. The supplementation of fish oils, such as salmon oil, can help boost the omega-3 fatty acids in your dog’s diet.
However, not all omega fatty acids are the same. While omega-3 fatty acids, found in fish oil and marine microalgal oils, are beneficial for kidney health, omega-6 fatty acids, found in safflower and sunflower oils, appear to be detrimental to dogs suffering from CKD and should be avoided in excess.
Added antioxidants. Oxidation in the body causes the formation of free radicals, which attack compounds in the body and cause cellular damage, leading to inflammation. The cellular damage caused by free radicals has been implicated in the progression of kidney disease, so minimizing the presence of free radicals in the body is a goal when feeding dogs with kidney problems. Fortunately, these free radicals can be bound, and their damaging effects neutralized, by antioxidants. Dietary supplementation of vitamin E and vitamin C, which are rich in antioxidants, can bind up free radicals and minimize inflammation in the body.
Adequate water intake. Water is vital for maintaining kidney health and function, and incorporating moisture into the diet is a fantastic way to boost hydration in our dogs. Fresh and canned diets contain high levels of moisture (typically more than 70%), but owners can add even more moisture to these already high-moisture diets. Diets high in moisture are also typically more palatable, which can help to stimulate food intake in picky or lethargic dogs.
When adding moisture to diets for dogs with kidney disease, stay away from bone broths, broths, and dairy, as these can be high in phosphorus and sodium, which should be minimized. In addition, a source of fresh water should always be made available.
Veterinary monitoring and dietary adjustments
It is important to remember that chronic kidney disease is a progressive condition and your dog’s nutritional needs may change over time. Regular veterinary check-ups, including the monitoring of bloodwork, are essential for evaluating changes that may need to be made to maximize the efficacy of dietary therapies.
Getting an adequate amount of sleep is important for the physical and behavioral health of a growing puppy – as well as our sanity! Helping your puppy develop a healthy sleep schedule isn’t difficult, but it does require conscious effort on your part. Photo by Kathy Callahan
Let’s say you have a puppy, but you also really love your sleep. Are you doomed? Puppies often wake up too early and cry in the middle of the night. It can take months to develop a sleep schedule that jibes with yours. Can anything be done to avoid sleep deprivation?
Yes! The following are the most common things that keep puppies from sleeping through the night. If you proactively address each of them, you’ll give your entire household a better shot at regular sleep throughout puppyhood.
Is Your Puppy Lonely?
When you bring a puppy home, it’s probably the first time she’s ever been separated from her littermates. During the day, you might be able to distract her enough that she feels OK, but every other night of her little life she has been snuggled into a warm pile of breathing, nestling siblings. Sleeping alone may well feel impossible or make her wake far too early.
So this first week in particular, keep her company as she adjusts to her new life with you. Your kind presence, soothing voice, and warm hands can help so much. You might:
Sleep on the couch next to her pen/crate.
Keep her crate right next to your bed.
Place a tiny soft-sided crate alongside you in bed.
Bring her in bed with you, where you can cuddle her just like her littermates did. The last is our choice, and it results in the most sleep for us by far. (This doesn’t do all the terrible things you may have heard it does! See “Sleeping With Your New Puppy,” for encouragement.)
Also, don’t dismiss the “companionship” and comfort of anything warm! For some pups, a hot water bottle wrapped in a cozy (or furry) blanket will help them sleep through the night. So can a Snuggle Puppy, which has a safe warming feature and a simulated heartbeat.
The Snuggle Puppy is a stuffed animal containing a battery-operated device that simulates a heartbeat (like that of a mother dog or littermate) to help a puppy adjust to sleeping alone; disposable warming packs can also be inserted inside. Photo by Monica Siniff
Does Your Puppy Have to Go to the Bathroom?
Everybody assumes that their puppy is waking up because he has to pee or poop, but in my experience that’s usually not the issue. (That’s why I started with loneliness, which is the most common culprit.)
Sure, if your puppy is crying and you take him outside he will pee. Unfortunately, you’ll likely conclude that having to pee was the reason he was crying; then you’ll spend the next two months unnecessarily getting up at 2 am instead of sleeping through the night!
With the exception of toy breeds, most puppies can last a reasonable six hours even on their first night home at 8 weeks old. Your opportunity to encourage this is in the five hours before bedtime. Let’s say you’d like to sleep from 11 pm to 5 am that first week. Set yourself up for success by making sure you don’t feed anything (much) after 6 pm, and taking up the water bowl at 7 pm, allowing some sips after that but no sustained gulping. Then, sometime after 10 pm, go outside for a nice, exuberant, 15-minute romp and play session where pup can fully eliminate. Movement encourages full emptying! A quick, lazy step off of the back patio steps with a tiny tinkle is truly not the same thing and could result in a pup who really does have to eliminate again at 2 am.
Note: A puppy with a urinary tract infection or diarrhea obviously can’t hold it. Also, a pup who is awake and agitated for any of the other reasons on this list will start moving around, and that indeed may make it likely that he feels the need to eliminate. But a calm, quiet pup can typically last six hours.
Is There Too Much Noise or Light?
Covering your puppy’s crate with a blanket, or installing blackout shades in the room where she sleeps, can help her sleep in past dawn. Using a fan or white noise machine to mask birdsong or other noises can also help her sleep later in the morning. Photo by Kathy Callahan
To increase your odds of solid sleep and a regular puppy sleep schedule, create a quiet, dark experience for your puppy. If she’s jolted awake by noise or light she’ll be either worried or excited, neither of which promotes sleep. A puppy full of questions – What was that? Are we all getting up? Is somebody playing somewhere? Is it time for breakfast? – is not a restful puppy. So block all of that input as best you can:
Use a noise machine or a fan to mask other sounds. (In the spring, bird song that wakes up a puppy up too early is a real issue!)
Keep lights off, use room-darkening shades/curtains, and/or put a blanket over the pup’s crate.
Plan ahead to minimize your own movement. If you, your partner, and your puppy are sleeping in the same room, everybody goes to sleep at once. Lights out; no talking. And don’t drink a glass of water before bed that will have you trekking to the bathroom at 3 am. (This is not forever! It’s just for when pup is getting used to the routine.)
Is Your Puppy Napping at 8 pm?
One reason your pup may not be sleeping through the night is because he’s simply not tired! A very common issue is the dreaded 8 pm nap. Many puppies are absolutely wiped out at 8 pm, so they take a whopper of a nap. Their family frankly enjoys the respite from puppy antics, then wakes the pup at 10 pm for a bathroom break. After that, it’s sometimes hard for the puppy to settle down again, or, if he does, he no longer needs a giant sleep because he just got two big hours.
To combat this, think about slight adjustments to the schedule. We don’t want to force a puppy to stay awake at 8, but we can encourage an earlier, shorter nap. Maybe 6 pm to 7 pm in the crate with dinner in the form of a food-stuffed frozen Toppl, so that the nice chewing leads to sleep? Follow with an evening walk, maybe a little play with a neighbor dog, maybe some tug?
There are a million variations you can come up with, but the point is to think about manipulating this baby’s sleep schedule to your advantage by gently tweaking the rest/activity periods throughout the rest of the day.
Is Your Puppy Tired Enough?
Of course, a natural way to make sure your pup is sleepy at night is to increase the energy expended during the day. Small changes can make a big difference for the youngest of puppies. Add enrichment (and tire her out) with things like:
A 10-minute playdate with a neighbor dog.
A 10-minute visit to a friend’s house.
A 10-minute walk in the local shopping center.
Three 3-minute treat-filled training sessions.
Meals offered not in a boring bowl but in a form that requires foraging and chewing (such as with a snuffle mat, scatter feeding, a LickiMat, etc.).
A wonderfully full day of activity can promote a nice full night of rest and prevent waking too early.
Is Your Puppy Too Hungry?
Sometimes it’s a growling tummy that’s waking up an otherwise sleepy pup. If you’re in the habit of feeding breakfast the second your pup wakes up, you might want to re-think that. As humans know, a stomach that is used to eating at a certain time learns to feel hungry at that time.
I like to set a regular puppy meal time that’s much later, well after the whole household is up. That way both her brain and her tummy won’t associate the moment of waking with eating.
Make sure to truly feed enough during the day. After five years of running a puppy playgroup, I can tell after half an hour when a puppy’s not being fed enough: they are more bitey, more jumpy, less focused, less able to wait their turn, and less able to shake off the minor insults that can result during social play.
When I ask their surprised (and super responsible) owners to just indulge me and give an extra feeding every day the next week, every single time they come back and say some version of this: “Oh my gosh. He’s a different dog. Not only is he biting and jumping less, but he’s finally sleeping all night!”
So why do people underfeed their puppies? It happens because one size does not fit all, because we are (rightly) worried about adult obesity, and because it’s pretty shocking how much food a puppy eats! But they are growing, not at a uniform pace, and not exactly like the puppy next door. So look at the individual in front of you, and make sure he’s not hungry all day!
A Healthy Puppy Sleep Schedule
Keep in mind that sleep deprivation can cause problematic behavior and moods in puppies as well as in the people who live with them! Addressing all of the most common impediments to a puppy’s good night’s sleep should put him (and you!) on track for a restful night – which everyone needs to remain healthy and happy.
Any dog bite that breaks the skin can cause a potentially serious infection, as dogs can host several pathogenic bacteria species in their mouths. Photo by RapidEye, Getty images
Many people have been told that dogs’ mouths are cleaner than a human’s mouth, but this is a myth! Dogs’ mouths contain just as many bacteria as our own. Most of these bacteria are specific to dogs, meaning that they prefer to colonize the canine species and not humans. But there are some bacteria in a dog’s mouth that can cause infections in humans if given the right opportunity.
One of the perfect opportunities for infection is when a dog bites a human hard enough to break the skin – a protective barrier that usually prevents bacteria from entering the body. A break in the skin – like that caused by a dog’s teeth – allows bacteria to enter the body and potentially cause an infection. It’s important to treat dog bites properly to prevent infection; see “First Aid for Dog Bites,” below.
First Aid for Dog Bites
Follow these steps if you are bitten by a dog:
Wash the wound thoroughly with soap and warm water.
Apply an antibiotic ointment or cream and cover the wound with a clean bandage.
Check the wound at least twice a day. Signs of infection include redness, swelling, discharge, increased pain, or foul odor. If you notice any of these signs, seek medical attention immediately.
Seek medical attention immediately if:
The wound is deep or the skin is crushed or torn.
The wound is bleeding significantly.
You are unsure of the rabies vaccination status of the dog who bit you.
You have not had a tetanus vaccine in more than 10 years (5 years if the wound is dirty).
If you are not sure about the seriousness of your wound, don’t take chances; consult with your healthcare professional.
The top three bacterial species found in infected dog bite wounds are Pasteurella, Streptococcus, and Staphylococcus. Other common bacterial species isolated from infected dog bite wounds include Neisseria, Corynebacterium, Fusobacterium, and Porphyromonas.
Another opportunistic bacteria found in the mouths of dogs and humans is Capnocytophaga. According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), Capnocytophaga from a dog’s mouth does not typically cause infections in people, even in bite wounds. However, people with compromised immune systems or who are pregnant, very young (less than 5 years of age), or seniors (65 years of age or older) are at increased risk of developing an infection from Capnocytophaga. Individuals at increased risk of developing an infection from Capnocytophaga should not allow their dog to lick them. Small breaks in the skin (such as cuts or other wounds) can allow bacteria to enter the body. Allowing dog saliva to have contact with an at-risk individual’s mouth, nose, or eyes can also increase the risk of infection from Capnocytophaga. For more information about this infection, see the CDC’s page on Capnocytophaga.
Dogs who consume a raw food diet pose an additional risk if they are allowed to lick their humans. Raw food is more likely to be contaminated with the bacteria Salmonella, Escherichia coli, or Listeria monocytogenes.These bacteria can reside in the mouths of dogs who consume raw food. Dogs may inadvertently spread bacteria from raw food to their humans through the simple act of licking their faces.
So, let’s bust that myth about dog mouth cleanliness! Dogs’ mouths are just as dirty and full of bacteria as the mouths of humans. But for most people (and their dogs!) being licked by their dog should not be a major issue.
We are responsible for everything we expose our dogs to, whether we are aware of the risks of our choices or not. This knowledge should guide, but not paralyze us. Photo by Nancy Kerns
When we make decisions that affect our health – our diet, supplements, exercise, how often we see our doctors – we rarely see the effects of our choices on a timetable that drastically demonstrates the wisdom or folly of those decisions. I mean, sure, if we take up motorcycle racing or some other extreme sport and we get seriously injured, folks may judge our choices. And if we suddenly make a big change in our diet and exercise routine, we can lose a lot of weight in a relatively short amount of time – but usually, it takes too long to determine whether even a very dramatic weight loss (or gain!) has significantly changed our lifespan.
But the decisions we make for our dogs feel much more fraught. Because their lifespans are just a fraction of ours, we may well see the direct results of the choices we’ve made for their health – and they may feel heavily, crushingly consequential. It is our responsibility to do all the things that will keep them well and long-lived, and when their lives are threatened or shortened by something as a result of the choices we made, or failed to make, the guilt can be devastating. Was it the topical pesticides you used to protect them from fleas and ticks that caused their cancer? Was it the leptospirosis vaccine you declined that led to their contracting the disease and dying of kidney or liver failure? The food you kept buying that turned out to contain heavy metals or melamine that poisoned them – that’s on your conscience!
Maybe this is why folks get so judgey and vehement on social media about every little thing we do with our dogs, from training tools to vaccinations, food to pesticides, neutering to rawhide chews. There are so many decisions to make for our dogs, and they really are consequential . . .
But, look: We can only do what we can do with what we know. The mere fact that you’ve subscribed to WDJ means you are already doing more than the average owner to educate yourself about the practices that can – we hope – enhance, preserve, and extend your dog’s life. No one can make perfect decisions about every aspect of their dogs’ lives; we’ve all made choices for our dogs that haunted us later. If only we had asked for an abdominal ultrasound after his first symptoms, if only we hadn’t let him off-leash that day, if only we hadn’t bought that particular chewie . . . No, stop. All we can do is keep learning and be kind to ourselves, our dogs, and each other. We are all at different stages of learning, and no one is perfect.
Kindness, respect, and clear communication can help everyone get along better with each other, no matter the size or species. Photo by miodrag ignjatovic, Getty Images
Have you heard of “gentle parenting?” If so, you may have been introduced to the term as I have been: through a comedian making fun of it. When I first heard the term, I couldn’t tell you everything that it entails, but I recognized the snark, condescension, and ridicule that it engenders, because that’s how early devotees of force-free training were treated by dog owners who couldn’t conceive of training their dogs without punishment.
Whether it’s a parent dealing with a toddler in midst of a meltdown or an owner dealing with a dog who is over threshold in the face of something stressful or scary for that dog, if the person is remaining patient and kind, it’s somehow triggering for many people!
But the more I’ve looked into gentle parenting, the more enamored I am of this movement, and the more parallels between its strategies and force-free dog training I see.
It’s also referred to as “connection-based parenting” – which sounds a lot like “relationship-based dog training.” The underlying principle in both is to take pains to avoid doing things that will make your child or dog fear or distrust you.
Both philosophies are often misunderstood as being permissive or boundary-free. Neither of those descriptions are accurate, but the way that behavior is shaped and influenced is free of commands and verbal or physical punishments.
Gentle parenting and force-free training emphasize empathy for the other as critical. I love that! A dog owner who can’t appreciate how much dogs need to smell things or chew things or get some off-leash exercise sometimes is never going to be as patient and understanding with their dog as someone who knows that these behaviors are part of a dog’s genetic inheritance.
When I was hired to edit Whole Dog Journal, I wasn’t familiar with force-free training, but I steeped myself in the newly emerging literature and sought out every educational conference and workshop I could find to learn more about it and bring it to our readers. And I found that almost everything I learned had relative equivalents in how I wanted to raise my son, who was just 4 years old when WDJ was launched. Through positive dog training, I learned to “catch him doing something right” – to notice and reinforce the behaviors that I wanted to see more of (like picking up his toys, sharing and playing nicely with his friends, brushing his teeth without being prompted to do so, reading books, and so on). This didn’t mean I gave him a treat every time he did these things, but I would offer some reinforcement, such as some warm praise, attention, a comforting touch, or eye contact and a smile.
I often say that my son grew up into a smart, successful, loving, responsible human being thanks to positive dog training, but I see now that it was actually gentle parenting all long. Don’t make fun of something that works and feels so much better than a domineering or punishing relationship.
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A confident Velcro dog will understand that sometimes you must leave the house, but you will be back. A special spot or crate where he can wait sometimes helps the transition. Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images
A “Velcro dog” wants to be where you are, no matter what and no matter where. Many of these dogs follow their owners from room to room, even into the bathroom. Some breeds, like the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, just naturally desire closeness. My dogs are always in the same room as me. As I write this article, they’re all settled in my office for a nice nap. But they’re equally fine with my husband or home alone. They desire closeness, but they’re confident when alone, too.
Separation Anxiety
When you leave your home, a healthy Velcro/clingy dog quietly waits for his owner to return. If he destroys the home and/or injures himself when you’re not in his sight, it’s a problem. This is called separation anxiety.
A dog with separation anxiety may engage in behavior that destroys household items and even harms himself. This dog may need behavior training and/or medication. Note: An older but often referenced study found that separation anxiety doesn’t develop just because a dog is “spoiled,” but it is more likely to occur in homes with one dog and one human.
Pain or Discomfort
If your dog changes and needs to be by your side every minute, and it is out of character for him to behave like this, then perhaps he’s not feeling well. If a dog is in pain, he may go to his owner for comfort. Bring him to the veterinarian to make sure there’s nothing wrong with him.
Fear
Another reason a dog might suddenly find the need to stick to you like Velcro is fear or an unsettling household change:
Is there a new member of the household that the dog is uncomfortable with?
An uncle that’s a little too rough or loud?
A new baby that makes high pitched noises?
Are you having workers in the house?
A toddler who just learned to stomp and throw toys and scream?
Or maybe the new puppy is just too much for your older dog (or vice versa).
My dogs were clingier while we were having noisy house repairs done, with strange men hammering all day. My dogs never left my side until the workers started bringing them (owner-approved!) treats. Dogs like routine. And any time that routine changes, it can cause him angst, and he will seek protection from you. Or he may think he’s protecting you.
Many rescue dogs or puppy-mill dogs, who have finally found their forever home, get anxious when they are asked to leave your side. They need to be close to you every minute because they are insecure and possibly fearful. Who knows what kind of environment they have experienced in the past?
When you leave, they are not sure if you will be back, so they don’t want to let go. Hopefully, they will learn that you return every time, and they will be able to rest while you’re gone. Often, medications from your vet will help to relieve the anxiety until they feel that you are not deserting them.
For some of these dogs, teaching them you will be back is as simple as practicing. You leave them alone for 20 seconds and return and give them a treat. You gradually increase the time away, over the course of a week or two, until they realize that, “Oh, Mom is leaving! She’ll be back and I will get a treat.”
Many dogs also relax more if they go to their spot or their cozy crate before you leave. It keeps them safe, and it reminds them that this is what they do while you’re away from home and, when you return, you’ll let them out.
Classes can Help a Velcro Dog
Several dogs enrolled in my Basic class each session cling to their handlers out of fear. They just cannot come out from behind their owners. We simply carry on with the class, have fun and play with toys, with dogs getting lots of treats for doing simple exercises. Eventually, the shy dog takes interest in the class and wants to join in. Within six weeks, we have a more confident pet who is a little less clingy.
There was one Chihuahua, however, that I remember from a few years ago, who never came out from behind his owner. The owner came to class each week, her dog hiding behind her. She learned how to teach various exercises, went home and taught Muffin. The result was a very shy, albeit very well-trained dog. And everyone was happy.
I hope that you are lucky enough to have a dog who loves you so much he wants to be by your side, is comfortable with you leaving him at home for a bit, and greets you with barking, spins, and kisses when you arrive back at home. And as the moon rises, it finds you cuddled up together in a chair under a warm blanket.
