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Color Us Happy

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Hey! Notice anything different? Color! I’ve been whining and begging our publisher for color for quite some time, and I’m thrilled that the powers that be recently agreed that pictures of dogs (and even dog-care products and foods!) are just way more interesting when they can be seen in color. And stay tuned for another exciting development – one that will powerfully reward subscribers who register for access to the digital edition of Whole Dog Journal.

Nancy Kerns

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My enthusiasm over its color notwithstanding, this is a great issue. Starting on the facing page, Pat Miller describes where and how to best conduct a search for a new dog. She promotes shelter dogs, of course, but also offers tips on buying a pup from that rare creature, the “responsible breeder.” They do exist, and can be distinguished from frauds, if you know what to look for.

I recently met a young couple who had an amazing experience with a highly responsible breeder. The couple resides in the Bay Area, but learned about a litter of Shiba Inu puppies in Oregon. They drove 10 hours to meet the breeder, the dam, and the puppies, and answered countless questions from the breeder about their home and intentions for the pup they fell in love with. Most breeders would have been satisfied with this couple (and their money). This breeder insisted on driving the 10 hours back to the Bay Area to make sure the couple’s home and yard was suitable for safely raising one of her puppies! Only then did she complete the sale. She has called the pup’s new owners to check in and answer questions, and reminds them frequently that she’ll take the pup back, no questions asked, if they ever decide not to keep her. That’s a responsible breeder.

Starting on page 8, agility enthusiast and occasional contributor Lorie Long explains everything you need to know about pet health insurance. After editing the article, I asked for and received price quotes for various insurance plans for my dog, Otto. I’m still wading through the responses, and though I’m not yet sure which plan will best suit Otto’s needs, I do know I’ll be signing up for one of them.

Did you know that not all dogs know how to doggie paddle, and many need to be taught to swim? Our resident triathlete/dog trainer/writer, Susan Sarubin, describes the best way to introduce your dog to the sport of swimming, starting on page 18.

Pat Miller pulls double duty in this issue, explaining (on page 19) how to train your dog to “wait” and “stay” – and teaching us the difference between these behaviors. Otto and I frequently use Pat’s techniques when we practice “wait” and “stay” at my local post office. (We pick up the mail at night, when no one else is around.) Otto has advanced to staying even when the motion-activated front doors open or close as he holds a sit outside, craning his head to try to see me without moving from his spot. These techniques really work, folks! Give them a try with your dog!

Selecting Your Next Dog or Puppy

Thinking of getting a new dog? Chances are you’re inundated with well-intentioned advice from every friend, family member, and canine professional you know about where to go and who to avoid in your quest to find your next canine pal. You may also feel the added burden of finding the right dog – one who will be as close to perfect as caninely possible. It’s an awesome challenge.

Many years ago, I was living on my own for the first time, and missed having a dog in my life. I went on a Collie search, and soon answered an ad in the paper for Marty’s Pride, a tri-color Rough Collie whose owner had gone off to college. Marty was near canine-perfect: the first dog I showed in AKC obedience competition (he earned his Companion Dog title in three trials with scores of 194.5, 196, and 197), and the first dog I ever owned who died of old age. He was also the last dog I deliberately went looking to adopt. Since then my selections have been much more serendipitous. My husband and I tend to adopt the dogs who find us, or we trip over them at the shelter and bring them home.

Puppies look through the bars of an animal shelter kennel
Many people have a serious misconception about shelters, regarding them as containing only “reject” dogs. Of course, you can find dogs with health and/or behavior problems there. But shelters also contain many healthy, well-behaved, loving dogs – purebred and mixed – victims of difficult human circumstances.

I realize that we’re the exception, not the rule. Most people make more deliberate decisions than we do about the kind of dog they want, and where to find him – or her. Those decisions, although deliberate, are not always wise. I’m constantly amazed by the number of clients in my behavior consultation practice who thought they were making well-educated, well-researched decisions about the acquisition of their new four-legged family member, and ended up with something vastly different from what they expected. So how do you make an educated, responsible decision about selecting your next dog?

Adoption options The advice you receive from friends and professionals can be conflicting and confusing. “Only buy from a responsible breeder.” “There’s no such thing as a responsible breeder; you should only adopt from a shelter.” “Omigosh you’re adopting from the shelter? Their dogs all have major behavior problems and kennel cough! You should adopt from a rescue group.” “Shelter or rescue? You don’t know what you’re getting. The only way to be sure of what you’re getting is to purchase a puppy from a breeder.” So who’s right and who’s wrong? They all are.

There are lots of different places you can go to get a dog. Some are better than others, and there are some you should never patronize. Here’s a guide to help you maximize your chance of getting the dog you want:

Animal shelters. This is my personal first choice. I am painfully aware that there are good shelters and not-so-good ones (see “What You Should Know About Animal Shelters,” WDJ Jan 2009). If you live near a good one, your adoption process will be facilitated by knowledgeable and friendly adoption counselors who can help you make a good decision about your new family member.

In the good shelters, staff will have conducted behavioral assessments of the adoption dogs, which will provide you with useful information and help you determine if the dog might be a good match. If you live near a not-so-good shelter you have a choice – to adopt from that shelter, conducting your own impromptu assessment and risking diseases such as kennel cough and parvo that lurk in the corners of substandard facilities, or to travel a greater distance to adopt from a better quality shelter.

A really good shelter will give you a thorough and human-friendly vetting before they’ll agree to adopt one of their dogs to you. If they fall a little short on the customer-relations end of things, have patience and remember, it’s only because they really are concerned that their dogs go to lifelong loving homes. This caveat holds for any of the best placement programs – they will check you out carefully, and may sometimes be a little overzealous in those efforts.

Don’t rule out shelters if you’re looking for a particular breed or mix – many breeds show up in shelters with disturbing frequency. Ask your shelter if they have a waiting list or “wish list” for approved adopters who want to adopt a specified breed or type of dog. Then get your name on the list.

If you know what you’re looking for and what to watch out for, you can find great dogs in almost any bona fide shelter. If you lack experience or confidence in your dog selection talents, take along a knowledgeable friend or positive canine professional to help you make a good choice.

Rescue groups. Another place to find the specific breed you want is a “breed rescue.” Like shelters, rescue groups can be good, bad, or ugly. Many breed-rescue groups are affiliated with breed clubs and tend to be responsible about healthcare, spaying and neutering, behavior assessment, and placement. Some even commit significant resources to medical treatment and behavior modification before placing their canine wards. But not all.

Non-affiliated rescue groups, especially those who rescue all breeds and mixes, or a wide variety of breeds and mixes, sometimes take on far more dogs than they can care for. Some end up more closely resembling hoarders than rescuers, neglecting the very dogs they claim to have saved. We absolutely encourage you to adopt from legitimate rescue groups, breed-affiliated or not. If you come across the non-legitimate variety in your travels, report them to the authorities.

A Boston Terrier mother dog and her puppies
It’s hard not to take it personally, but don’t be offended if a breeder won’t sell you a puppy. Instead, try to understand her reasons. She may give you vital information about what it takes to truly succeed with that breed.

You may be tempted to adopt one of the sad faces in a substandard rescue facility. If you do, know that you have a significantly greater likelihood of taking home a dog with physical, medical, and/or behavioral challenges.

Responsible breeders. Yes, they do exist, although I know there are some who fancy themselves as “responsible” who wouldn’t fit my definition of the word. The list of qualities to look for in a breeder is long, but some of the most important are:

• Breeds mentally and physically healthy, genetically sound puppies.

• Socializes the puppies well to a variety of places and things as well as to people.

• Breeds no more puppies than she can find homes for.

• Requires spay/neuter for all puppies not destined for the show ring.

• Screens prospective puppy homes carefully and only sells to appropriate private-home buyers who can provide lifelong loving care.

• Allows the buyer to meet the mother of the puppies, and the father too, if he’s on the premises.

• Educates buyers about needs of dogs in general and the specific breed in particular. Will not sell a puppy to a person with unrealistic expectations of the breed.

• Provides follow-up to be sure pups are doing well and keeps in touch with owner for the life of the dog.

• Provides resources and support for owners who are having problems with their dogs.

• Takes back dogs who were sold any time, for any reason, for the life of the dog.

That’s a start; a much more comprehensive list can be found at wonderpuppy.net/1breeding.php. By the way, responsible breeders never:

• Sell puppies to pet stores.

• Sell sight unseen over the Internet. (They may have a website, but actual sales are personal, and the breeder should want to meet the buyer and have the buyer meet the puppy.)

• Meet you halfway and sell you the puppy out of the back of a truck.

• Prevent you from seeing the conditions under which the puppies were raised.

When I was still at the Marin Humane Society, in the early 1990s, we conducted a project to offer responsible breeders the opportunity to reclaim dogs of their breeding that had ended up at our shelter for any reason. Over a two-year period we received about 30 purebred dogs whose breeders we were able to identify and contact. Of those 30, only two came to reclaim their dogs, and at least one of those two was what many would probably have called a “backyard” breeder because she wasn’t involved in showing or competing with her dogs. That project was an eye-opener for us about the percentage of truly responsible breeders in the real world.

A hound dog is being scanned for a microchip at an animal shelter
All found strays should be scanned for a microchip and examined for a tattoo, to make sure they aren’t owned and deeply missed by an unlucky owner. Also, a report of the found dog should be filed with your local shelter.

Private adoptions. This covers a broad range of possibilities – including answering an ad in the paper like I did for my wonderful Collie; helping out a friend whose circumstances require her to give up her dog; taking in the canine companion of a friend or relative who has passed away; or falling for a “free to a good home” opportunity in front of a supermarket. You may even find you’ve been named as legal custodian for a friend’s dog in her will!

These can be great adoptions, or caveat emptor situations. If you can find the dog you’re looking for in the newspaper, you can skip the middleman (shelter or rescue group) and save the dog (and his human) a lot of stress. We’re talking adolescent to adult dogs here; responsible breeders never sell their pups through newspaper ads.

Look for key words in the ads that give you a clue as to why the dog is being given up. Phrases like “Needs ‘only dog’ home,” or “Not good with kids” tell you the dog has a behavior history that might be cause for concern. Ask the owner why he’s giving up the dog, and then weigh the trustworthiness of the answer in light of your own observations. In these days of foreclosures there are lots of good dogs going homeless for very legitimate reasons.

If you’re taking on the dog of a friend or family member, you probably already knew the dog before you agreed to take him. Be sure all parties are clear – in writing – about legal custody. Who will make decisions about the dog’s health and future, and who pays all the bills? What sort of visitation rights will the original owner have? If circumstances change, will the dog go back to the original owner or stay with you?

As always, use sound judgment when considering the adoption of a dog that someone else is giving up. Conduct your own behavior assessment to confirm the dog is someone you can love and live with for life, before making the commitment to bring her home.

Found strays. One of my clients recently adopted a dog she found – or who found her. Maryann wasn’t really looking for a dog; she was perfectly happy with her Lhasapoo, Xena. But when an adolescent American Eskimo showed up on her doorstep she invited him in. She notified the shelter that he was with them and spent the next 30 days in fear that someone would claim him. Dexter is now a permanent part of the family.

In some locations, you have lots of opportunities to find and keep stray dogs. In other, more responsible communities, not so much. Bear in mind that most strays are not “professional” strays (as in “street dogs,” or feral), but rather dogs who got separated from an owner who cares about them, or perhaps dogs who were recently abandoned due to current economic conditions. In any case, if you find a stray you’re thinking of keeping, you must make an effort to find the owner, by leaving a “found dog” report with your local shelter, placing an ad in the paper, putting up posters, having him scanned for a microchip, and of course, calling any number provided on an ID tag and/or license on his collar.

Remember, you’re not morally obligated to keep a stray dog just because you found him. If you’re over your limit – legally, financially, or personally – or if he’s not a good fit for your family, you won’t be doing him any favors by trying to keep him.

Petfinder. In a class by itself, Petfinder is an online clearinghouse of information (petfinder.com) about dogs (and other animals) of all breeds and mixes available for adoption from groups across the entire country. If you’re looking for a specific breed or mix, it’s almost guaranteed you can find it on Petfinder. Then you’re only faced with the challenge of a “sight unseen” adoption – not something I recommend. I suggest you use Petfinder to locate suitable dogs near you to consider for adoption, unless you’re willing to travel to meet them and bring them home if they meet your requirements.

Pet stores? NEVER! The only positive about purchasing a puppy from a pet store is that you are essentially paying to rescue that doggie in the window – so it’s a good thing for that individual pup. I do have some clients who are completely happy with their pet store puppy purchase. But I have many more who love their dogs but are faced with problems common to pet store dogs, and regret not having made a wiser adoption choice. The risks related to buying pet store puppies so greatly outweigh the single good that we vehemently urge you to never even let the thought cross your mind.

For starters, when you purchase a pet store puppy, you are supporting the horrendous puppy mill industry. Every dollar you spend to rescue that beguiling face in the window goes to produce, market, and sell more puppies who are raised in substandard conditions by mothers who are nothing more than breeding machines, callously discarded when they can no longer produce. Don’t believe the store manager who reassures you that their puppies come from “responsible breeders.” No responsible breeder on earth sells puppies to pet stores. Not one.

Parents of pet store puppies are unlikely to have had any screening for hip dysplasia, eye problems, or any of the other myriad of genetic defects common to various dog breeds, so the chances are far greater that your pup will suffer from one or more of these debilitating defects in his lifetime. The puppies and their parents may have missed out on some important healthcare practices, such as routine worming and vaccinations. Worse, they are almost guaranteed to have missed out on the socialization experiences that are critical to normal social development. The sooner people stop buying pet store puppies, the sooner pet stores will stop selling them, and the sooner puppy mills and other irresponsible breeders will start going out of business.

A French Bulldog puppy looks through the window of a pet store; people looking at the puppy are reflected in the window
Pet supply stores should never supply their customers with pets! All puppies in pet stores (like this one in New York City) come from puppy mills and irresponsible breeders. All of them, no matter what the employees allege.

The how of selection
You’ve determined the source from which you want to acquire your next dog, or at least identified which sources are the most likely candidates for you. The next question is how. How do you decide which dog is the right one? Let’s assume the family has come to agreement about breed, or at least variables like size and type. If you’re purchasing a pup from a responsible breeder, she will guide you in selecting the best pup for your circumstances and dog-owning goals. If you want to show or compete, she’ll have a good idea which of her pups are best suited for that. If you want a family companion, she’ll identify which pups in the litter are best suited for that role.

On the other hand, if she thinks your situation is totally unsuited for her breed – an active Border Collie or vocal Sheltie in a small apartment – she’ll tell you that too, and then decline to sell you a puppy. Take her advice to heart, rethink your adoption choice, and don’t just go get a puppy of the same breed from a less responsible source.

If you’re adopting from a good shelter or rescue, they will already have performed behavior assessments on your pool of prospective adoption choices, and will help you make an educated selection. If you’re doing a private adoption or looking to a group that doesn’t assess, you’ll want to do your own assessment to explore a few behaviors before you adopt.

If you are a novice dog owner, I recommend taking along a more knowledgeable a friend, or a behavior/training professional who offers pet selection services, to help you with your decision. If you are reasonably knowledgeable about dogs and dog behavior, you should be able to determine at least some basic important qualities about your prospective adoptee on your own. Things to look for include:

¡ö Does the dog happily approach to greet you? A fearful dog is probably not well-socialized, and it will take a lot of work (behavior modification) to help him become “normal.” Love is not enough! Unless you are very skilled in training and behavior and ready to commit to a significant behavior modification program, I suggest you resist the temptation to rescue a shy dog, and instead adopt a friendly one. Friendly dogs need homes, too!

– Is he more interested in you or the environment? Social dogs want to hang out with people. If he totally ignores you, it will be harder to create the kind of relationship most people are looking for with their dogs.

– Does the dog play well? He may or may not play with toys (some dogs need to be taught how to play with toys), but will he follow you and romp a little with you? Does he get too aroused while playing, mouthing you, jumping on you, and unwilling to calm down when you’re ready to stop? Does he have a playful world view, or does he seem very serious? Again, a playful dog will be easier to train and bond with; a serious one may be more challenging to motivate and interact with.

– Is he easily aroused? Most pups bite some, as they explore their world with their mouths. But adolescent dogs and adults should have learned that putting teeth on humans isn’t acceptable behavior. If the dog in question gets overaroused easily, to the point of hard biting, non-stop biting, biting clothes, or growling, snapping, and snarling, he’s a good one to avoid.

– Will he eat treats? Most positive training relies at least part of the time on reinforcement with food. If the dog won’t take treats he could be too stressed (anorexia is a sign of stress) or he could be a dog who is not highly motivated by food – which will make training more challenging, especially if he’s also not interested in playing (another very useful reinforcer).

– If the dog will take treats, can you get him to sit? Put the treat right at the end of his nose, and slowly move it back over his head. If he jumps up to get it, whisk it out of sight for a second, then try again. When he sits, say “Yes!” and feed him a bit of the treat, then try again. If he starts offering sits for your treat after a few repetitions, you have a solid-gold winner. If it’s difficult to get him to sit, and/or he doesn’t seem to get the idea after several repetitions, he’ll be a more challenging dog to train.

– Try holding him close and looking at his teeth a few times in a row, then (carefully!) hugging him. If he resists restraint and becomes aroused, pulling away from you, perhaps even using his teeth, he probably won’t be a warm, cuddly dog – which is fine if that’s not what you want. Probably not a good choice for kids, though, who tend to want a lot of physical contact with their canine pals.

– Speaking of kids, the dog will need to meet any human youngsters in your immediate family, and should absolutely adore them. Any reluctance on the dog’s part to engage with the kids should rule him out as an adoption prospect. Dogs who live with kids need to love them, not just tolerate them. You should also introduce your adoption prospect to any dogs you currently own before making a final commitment to adopt. Again, ideally you’ll see joyful acceptance on both sides of the canine equation. Anything less is a sign that behavior work might be necessary to keep peace in the pack.

– Take a wooden spoon along with you in your assessment kit. While someone else holds the leash, set a bowl of food on the floor (dry food with some canned mixed in for palatability) and let the dog start eating. When he’s happily engaged, walk toward him. Watch for signs of tension: he eats faster, moving his nose into the bowl, or stops moving altogether, looking at you out of the corner of his eye. If you see tension, stop. If not, touch him with the wooden spoon, then put the spoon in the bowl and press it against his muzzle. Again, if you see tension, stop. If not, have the other person move him away from the bowl with the leash and pick the bowl up. Be careful! Dogs who are stressed about you being near their food can become ferocious very quickly.

Tension, growling, or snapping around food or other high-value objects is called “resource-guarding.” This is often a modifiable behavior, and it can also be a dangerous one. Dogs who show signs of resource-guarding should not go to homes with children, and are best adopted by an experienced dog owner who is willing to use positive, non-violent methods to modify the behavior.

I would not recommend adopting any dog who shows signs of shyness or aggression, including resource-guarding, or a dog who easily becomes highly aroused, unless you are a skilled and experienced owner looking for a long-term project.

Pet Insurance

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Pet health insurance can help you manage critical and emergency care for your dog.

[Updated February 27, 2018]

Last year my Border Terrier, Dash, received advanced canine dental treatments to the tune of more than $2,500 (described in “Improve Your Dental Acuity“). Her root canal, surgical extraction, and periodontal treatments were necessary to improve her health, but they certainly stretched my checkbook until I could hear the twang!

Fortunately, I was able to afford these procedures. But, who knows what could happen next to either of my two dogs, and how much it might cost? And how can I be prepared to provide a lifetime of high quality healthcare when my next puppy comes along? For the first time I am seriously considering the benefits of pet health insurance for my dogs (both seniors), and, especially, for any young dog who joins my family in the future.

Advances in veterinary science have led to the availability of high-tech wellness care, diagnostic testing, treatments, and surgical procedures. Cancer care, MRIs, pacemakers, joint replacements, and, yes, advanced dental care are increasingly common. Many private veterinary practices now offer high-tech procedures previously offered only at regional, specialty referral clinics.

Pet Insurance

The American Pet Products Association (APPA) estimates that, in 2008, dog owners spent more than $10 billion on veterinary care. The APPA’s 2007/2008 national pet survey reported that the average “routine veterinary visit” for a dog cost more than $200, and the average “surgical vet visit” cost more than $450. Advanced, high-tech treatments cost much more.

If you want to provide your dog with high quality healthcare throughout his life, pet health insurance deserves a serious look. And since you can’t buy health insurance for your dog when you really need it most, like in an emergency, or when a pre-existing condition erupts into a critical situation, now is the best time to look into health insurance that could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

Available Pet Insurance

Currently, a number of companies offer some type of pet health insurance in the U.S. Just like with human health insurance, there are several vastly different types of coverage a pet owner can buy. Classic pet health insurance is intended to cover expensive, unplanned events. Like health insurance policies for humans, most canine policies come with monthly premiums, a variety of deductible choices, various coverage levels, co-pays, and caps that limit total annual or lifetime payouts.

Canine health insurance policies may exclude older dogs or particular breeds from coverage, as well as certain genetically based conditions common to particular breeds. The policies normally exclude pre-existing conditions and may offer discounts for covering more than one pet member of a family.

Wellness coverage is one of the many choices available in classic insurance policies, along with prescription drug coverage, cancer treatment coverage, alternative therapies, accidental death, etc. Wellness packages generally offer preventative services such as vaccines, annual check-ups, and blood tests at a set rate.

Then there are variations – policies that cover only catastrophic illnesses, or, at the other end of the spectrum, plans that cover catastrophic care as well as regular wellness care and even alternative therapies like acupuncture. Some have options for dental care and prescription drug coverage. Some policies include a lost pet recovery service option or other “value-added” incentives. Of course, the costs for these plans vary significantly.

Insurance is the most effective method of mitigating high-tech veterinary expenses, but it’s underutilized. I asked Dr. Tim Banker, a member of a Greensboro, North Carolina, primary care veterinary practice (and my dogs’ dentist), about the practice’s experiences with pet health insurance. “Only five clients have involved us in the claims process,” he said.

One possible barrier to widespread acceptance by many pet owners is the persistence of stories about insurance companies that fail to cover what owners thought they would cover. It sometimes seems that unless the veterinarians fill out the paperwork just so, with the codes and abbreviations aligning properly, like stars in the heavens, many claims go unpaid. “There is an ‘art’ to knowing how to define the dental condition so that the insurance company accepts it,” Dr. Banker says.

I asked Dr. Banker if his specialty practice offered in-house discounts on expensive procedures to clients without insurance coverage. “Special programs are related to wellness services where there is more profit margin to work with. Advanced dental services are much more expensive to provide,” he explained. In other words, insurance is the best way for an owner to manage these expenses.

Understand These Insurance Terms Before You Shop:

The world of health insurance has a language of its own. We’ve defined some of the terms you should be familiar with:

Benefit schedule — Allowable charges for specific treatments defined by the insurance company in its policy. These charges may or may not equal the actual charges billed by your veterinarian for the treatments.

Co-pay — The portion of each veterinary bill the policyholder must pay before the insurance company becomes responsible for its payment. The amount varies according to the individual policy and is not cumulative. For instance, if your policy calls for a $20 co-pay, you must pay $20 toward each and every veterinary bill invoiced in the policy period.

Coverage level — Restrictions outlining the payment responsibilities of the insurance company, including maximum payout amounts, types of treatments included in the plan, and types of conditions included in the plan.

Deductible – The portion of the veterinary bill the policyholder must pay before the insurance company becomes responsible for any payments. The amount varies according to the individual policy and is cumulative. For instance, if your annual policy calls for a $500 deductible, you will have satisfied your deductible after having paid $500 in veterinary bills during the plan period, and the insurance company will pay future bills invoiced in the policy period according to other policy guidelines.

Premium — The cost of the health insurance policy, usually paid to the insurance provider monthly or annually.

Wellness care — Usually an add-on to a health insurance policy to cover preventative
treatments like regular dental cleaning, heartworm testing, and fecal exams.

Ask These Questions First

All of these companies offer price quotes through their websites and/or over the phone. Once you have determined the type and level of coverage you want for your dog, and you have some price quotes in front of you, call the companies whose plans you are considering and ask the following (and get the answers in writing!).

• What are the age limits? Some companies require puppies to be at least eight weeks old before coverage starts. Others will not cover older dogs.
• What is your waiting period? How long after you purchase the policy will you have to wait before all of the benefits kick in?
• What are your exclusions for pre-existing health conditions? How do you determine what is pre-existing?
• Does the company exclude certain breeds, charge more for certain breeds, or exclude breed-related, genetic conditions from coverage?
• What are your coverage caps or ceilings? Do they apply per incident, per body system, per illness, per year, or over the dog’s lifetime?
• How do you cover chronic or recurring illnesses? Does coverage continue for repeated treatment of the same condition?
• What triggers an increase in premiums? The dog’s age, filing a claim, built-in annual increases?
• Does the policy pay benefits based on a pre-determined schedule of charges or on the actual vet bill you pay?
• What are my co-pay choices? What percentage of my cost will the policy pay? Will my co-pay amount increase as my dog ages? Will my co-pay increase if I visit an emergency or specialty veterinarian?
• What are my deductible choices? Are deductibles different for visits to primary care veterinarians than for treatment by emergency or specialty veterinarians?
• Can I change my policy before the renewal date? If I do so, will I be charged a fee for the change?
• Can I get a multi-pet discount?
• How long after filing a claim will I receive reimbursement?
• Exactly what is covered and not covered in the policy? Checkups, spay/neuter, accidents, alternative therapies, preventative care, prescription drugs, illness due to tainted food?
• Can I use my usual primary care and specialty veterinarians, or must I use an in-network provider to receive benefits?

Pet Insurance Company Descriptions

Let’s look at the companies that are currently in operation.

AKC Pet Healthcare Plan

Underwritten by Markel Insurance Company, the American Kennel Club describes its plans as offering “individual claim evaluation, without complicated procedure limit maximums or benefit schedules.” That approach works as long as the evaluator agrees with your assessment of the reimbursements owed to you from the insurance company. There’s a 60-day Trial Plan, if activated within 28 days of AKC registration, for purebred dogs. The AKC also offers a plan that provides only accident coverage, at extremely low rates, so owners can cover “‘unlucky’ situations [listed in the plan] that frequently lead to high vet bills,” such as bite wounds, trauma, lacerations, fractures, and poison ingestion.

AKC Pet Healthcare Plan
Raleigh, North Carolina
(866) 725-2747

ASPCA Pet Health Insurance

The ASPCA has offered pet health insurance since 1997, and currently offers five pet health insurance plans with increasing levels of coverage. Owners must purchase the additional “continuing care option” for each plan if they want plan coverage for an illness or injury that showed symptoms or was treated in one plan period and requires care in another plan period, unless 180 days have passed from cure and last treatment. Some of these illnesses are relatively common, like allergies, diabetes, osteoarthritis, and cancer. The plans exclude acupuncture, chiropractic, and rehabilitative therapies, and vaccine antibody titer testing.

ASPCA Pet Health Insurance
Canton, Ohio
(866) 820-7764

Embrace Pet Insurance

Laura Bennett, a co-founder of Embrace Pet Insurance, wanted to offer pet health insurance policies that were not just “small, medium, or large.” She designed Embrace’s plan to give consumers many choices. Embrace offers more than 108 coverage variations so they can customize a plan for any particular dog living in any area. “We customize policies according to risk based on the type of pet and where you live,” she explains.

Embrace considers the hereditary conditions common to a dog’s breed, chronic conditions already present in the dog, and the area of the country in which the pet and owner live, all of which dictate the anticipated cost of healthcare for the dog, when pricing a policy. Then, Embrace offers additional coverage programs for things like wellness care, alternative medicine coverage, dental care and prescription drug coverage, which the owner may select as desired.

In its third year of selling pet health insurance, Embrace now covers about 5,000 pets and is growing about 25 percent a year. The company pays benefits according to actual amounts billed by the veterinarian, not a predetermined schedule of charges. Its goal is to provide reimbursements within 15 working days. You can “back into” the process by starting with the premium you’d like to pay and then putting together a shopping cart of benefits you want for your dog within that specified premium amount.

Bennett suggests that veterinary care costs are rising about 7 percent a year. Still, less than 1 percent of pet parents in the U.S. carry pet health insurance, compared to the 25 percent of pet owners, and 60 percent of purebred dog owners, with health insurance for their pets in England. “Pet health insurance is a great financial management tool,” says Bennett.

Embrace Pet Insurance
Mayfield Village, OH
(800) 511-9172

Pet Assure Corporation

“Simple” is the guiding philosophy at New Jersey-based Pet Assure Corporation, owned by Charles Nebenzahl. He purchased the company two years ago from its founder, who had been refused insurance reimbursement for his Labrador’s hip dysplasia treatments because it was a genetically-based condition and therefore excluded from his policy. The founder channeled his frustration into creating Pet Assure, a type of financial protection from pet healthcare expenses that doesn’t deal in forms and paperwork, deductibles, co-pays, pre-existing conditions, medical care codes, pre-determined schedules of charges, or other complexities.

Pet Insurance

Pet Assure more closely resembles a discount club than an insurance company. It signs veterinarians up when the vets agree to provide a 25 percent discount on medical services to Pet Assure members. Pet owners pay an annual fee and receive a membership card to present at the time of veterinary treatment provided by an in-network provider.

Why would vets mark down their service charges for Pet Assure members? “Most costs are fixed, but the veterinary practice may not be filling all of its appointment slots,” says Nebenzahl. He says Pet Assure brings new clients who want to receive discounted services to participating veterinary practices.

Pet Assure members can plug their zip code into the company’s website and receive a list of participating vets in their area. Urban areas around Washington, DC; New York City; Miami; Los Angeles; and in New Jersey offer the broadest choice of Pet Assure in-network veterinary practices. Some veterinary practices extend the discount to adjunct services like boarding and grooming.

Most of the participating veterinary practices are primary care clinics. “[Veterinary] specialty practices are busy and don’t need help to fill [appointment] slots,” Nebenzahl says. But specialty practices are where pet parents most often spend the big bucks and need the most financial assistance. “Our program is designed to pay for itself with routine veterinary care only,” Nebenzahl explains. Pet Assure also offers a “simple” lost pet recovery option. No microchips, no fancy chip readers. Just a collar tag with an ID number that directs someone who has possession of your lost dog to contact Pet Assure by phone. Pet Assure will identify and locate the dog’s owner.

Pet Assure Corp.
Lakewood, NJ
(888) 789-7387

PetFirst Healthcare

Offering premiums unaffected by a dog’s age, breed, or location, PetFirst Healthcare provides “core” plans (Basic Plan) and “comprehensive” plans (Preferred and Preferred Plus Plans), depending on the breadth of coverage desired by the owner. The plans are renewable for the life of the dog as long as the policy is purchased before the dog’s 10th birthday. The plans have per incident maximum payouts and a $50 deductible per incident for accident and illness claims. PetFirst provides a small discount, with coverage starting immediately upon adoption, for dogs rescued from shelters.

Bill Watson, Executive Director of the Roanoke Valley SPCA in southwest Virginia, began offering a PetFirst Healthcare insurance policy to shelter dog adopters in 2006. Although the shelter’s veterinarian carefully screens dogs available for adoption, and the shelter would never knowingly adopt out a sick animal, Watson says it’s not always possible to know what an animal could be incubating. “The worst calls I get,” says Watson, “are when an adopter gets home and later calls to tell me their animal is sick. They don’t always understand the communal nature of shelter living. I get a small number of these calls but they are highly emotional.”

Now, the shelter offers adopters the option of purchasing a pet health insurance policy, which takes effect on the adoption day, for just $5 for the first month’s premium. The premiums revert to the regular rate after the first month.

Watson credits the shelter’s constantly improving medical practices and the availability of affordable pet health insurance with reducing adoption returns for health reasons from 20 to 25 per year to three to five per year.

PetFirst Healthcare
Jeffersonville, IN
(866) 937-7387

PetHealth, Inc.

PetHealth, Inc., based in Ontario, offers a range of similar products and services for veterinarians, shelters, and pet owners through a number of wholly owned subsidiaries using a number of brand names including 24PetWatch, CherryBlue, EVE, PetPoint, and ShelterCare.

Pethealth offers a wide range of plans, from accident coverage only to full plans with accident and “double illness” coverage. It also offers a special “tenant” plan, for dogs who live with their owners in rental homes, and a plan for senior dogs, which covers the maladies that most commonly affect senior dogs.

Available in the U.S. (except in Alaska) this company guarantees acceptance regardless of the age or current health of the dog. It notes that premiums and coverage don’t increase due to a pet aging. Owners can purchase extra coverage for hereditary conditions. Some plans even provide temporary partial reimbursement for the purchase of special diets.

PetHealth, Inc.
Buffalo, NY
(866) 275-7387

Petplan USA

Petplan USA claims to be the only pet health insurance company in the U.S. to cover hereditary diseases with no dollar or time limit per condition. The company covers injuries and illnesses for life; once your dog is insured, Petplan will cover any chronic conditions into your dog’s old age as long as you continue to renew your policy each year without any break in coverage. It also covers some alternative therapies.

Pet Insurance

Petplan is endorsed by the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) and offers a discount to its members.

Petplan USA
Philadelphia, PA
(866) 467-3875

Pets Best Insurance

Founded in 2005, Pets Best Insurance steers away from using benefit schedules by stating that everything is covered except the things specifically listed as an exclusion in the owner’s policy. However, the exclusion list is lengthy and includes: congenital conditions, pre-existing conditions, parasites, diseases preventable by vaccines, elective procedures, and dental care in the basic level plan.

Owners may purchase add-on coverage for some of the exclusions like annual teeth cleaning, spay/neuter, and vaccinations. As with most health insurance companies, rates are geography-based; however, Pets Best Insurance is unique in that its exclusion conditions are also based upon geography.

Pets Best Insurance
Boise, ID
(877) 738-7237

Trupanion Pet Insurance

Offered in Canada for six years, Trupanion is newly available in the U.S. Trupanion is designed to cover “major veterinary cost you can’t anticipate,” rather than “expected veterinary costs.” Plans are priced with a $0 deductible, but owners can increase the deductible level in $5 increments in order to lower their monthly premiums. The plan pays 90 percent of the veterinary bills and will not increase as the dog ages. The plans cover hereditary conditions except hip dysplasia.

Trupanion
Lynnwood, WA
(800) 569-7913

Veterinary Pet Insurance

In business since 1982, Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) is the oldest and largest pet health insurance company in the U.S. After the policyholder meets her deductible, VPI reimburses her based on VPI’s predetermined benefit schedule of charges for veterinary services, or the actual invoice amount, whichever is less.

Ann Melchoir, a retired law enforcement professional and longtime dog and cat owner, purchased a health insurance policy for her pets from VPI about nine years ago. “I’d give them a solid B+,” says Melchoir.

Melchoir’s monthly premium, which covers two young dogs and two cats (one who is 15 years old), costs $103 with a $50 deductible per animal. She credits VPI with good phone assistance, reimbursements received within one month of her submission of a claim, and premiums that don’t go up just because she filed a claim.

Melchoir added her Norfolk Terrier, Katie, to the policy in 2007 when the pup was nine weeks old. During Katie’s first year, she incurred about $1,690 in veterinary bills, accumulated in four separate incidents, plus Melchoir paid $187 to VPI for Katie’s first year premium. Melchoir received just $466 in insurance reimbursements. But, she adds, “VPI lost a lot of money in the last five to six years of my Standard Poodle’s life.”

Melchoir lives in Potomac, Maryland, an upscale suburb of Washington, DC. She notes that the reimbursements usually cover less than half the charges she pays to vets in her expensive area of the country. Even so, she maintains the policy for her pets. She can afford to pay for the treatments her pets require, but the insurance “takes the sting out of it.”

“I’m willing to spend extra money for peace of mind,” she says. “I insure my pets before they come in the door [to eliminate policy exclusions for pre-existing conditions]. I’m that kind of person. For those years when you have a really sick animal, it’s worth it.”

Veterinary Pet Insurance
Brea, CA
(888) 899-4874


PetInsuranceReview.com Offers Some Help

Fans of retailing websites like Amazon.com (and many others) have become accustomed to receiving a certain amount of purchasing advice from their peers, in the form of a “user review.” There are also other sites that offer only reviews, with no products offered for sale by the site owner – although the sites are generally funded by advertising income and the sites themselves may be cluttered with ads.

Here’s a site that helpfully offers tons of the former (user reviews) and none of the latter (ads from competing insurance companies): Colorado-based Pet Insurance Review. The site states that it is not owned or controlled by any pet insurance company and the user reviews “do not reflect the opinion of the operator of this website.”

Pet Insurance Review says its mission is to help pet owners make the best health insurance decisions based on pricing and benefits, and actual customer reviews. It accomplishes the first part by making it easy for an owner to get a quote and information about the various companies from the companies themselves. If you click on “Get quotes,” and fill in some basic information about yourself and your dog (your zip code, your dog’s age, breed, and sex), the site will submit simultaneous quote requests to several insurance companies, who will then e-mail their quotes to you individually.

Alternatively, if you click on the names of the various insurance companies, you jump to a page that gives contact information for that company, a basic description (provided by the company), and hyperlink to the company’s own site (where you can submit a quote request yourself). But that page also features dozens (sometimes hundreds) of user reviews of the company’s insurance products; in our opinion, this is the most useful part of the website. Here, you can read what went well, or what went badly, about pet owners’ experiences with their dogs’ medical histories and their efforts to manage the associated costs.

Things to Keep in Mind

Choosing health insurance can seen daunting, but if you really focus on your own needs, your dog’s health, and your budget, you’ll be able to determine what sort of plan has the most potential for saving you money in the long run. Consider these tips as you mull over your options:

• Consider combining a discount program (like Pet Assure) to pay help pay for routine healthcare, with a low-premium, high-deductible policy for catastrophic health events only. That way, you will receive a discount on regular veterinary charges and some supplies and services, and still have coverage for high-cost, unplanned procedures.

• Alternatively, if you are very self-disciplined, create an interest-bearing savings account to be used for your dog’s healthcare needs. Take a realistic look at how much you can afford to save; it may make sense to purchase a high-deductible, low cost policy to cover expensive emergencies, even if you are assiduous about saving money to be used for routine veterinary expenses. Once the account contains enough savings to cover the high cost of emergency healthcare, you could safely discontinue the emergency policy.

• The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) offers this suggestion: Ask your veterinarian (or, more likely, her front office manager) about her recommendation for insurance. Vets and their clinic managers are likely to have experience dealing with the company (and maybe even the policy) you are considering. They may be able to warn you away from companies that fail to live up to their promises, and steer you toward companies that their clients have reported being very happy with.

• Owners with multiple pets may benefit most from discount plans health insurance to provide for even regular, planned veterinary expenses.

Remember, when your dog’s veterinary care costs significantly exceed what the insurance company will reimburse – according to its schedule – it can feel as if it wasn’t worth paying for the insurance.

No matter what plan you choose, it’s incumbent on you to understand the policy thoroughly, and know how to follow the proper procedure for filing claims. A company may have very specific requirements that you must meet – turning in paperwork within a determined time period, for example – and refuse to reimburse you if you fail to meet each of its requirements.

You may also find that you have to pay scrupulous attention to the reimbursements and the accompanying explanations that you do receive, to make sure you fully understand what the company did and did not reimburse you for, and why. All insurance companies make mistakes, and if you don’t pay attention, you may find that the mistakes all seem to favor the insurance company!

One owner I interviewed thought he would get more credit on his first claim, since he had paid premiums for many years without a claim; insurance doesn’t work like that! Also, after scrutinizing the reimbursement codes, he found that he failed to get reimbursement for something that should have been covered. He complained to the company, and was told how to submit more paperwork to correct the problem and receive greater reimbursement, but felt it was too much work for too little return. Just as with their own health insurance, dog owners may have to be diligent and persistent to receive the full measure of what they are due.

Ways to Minimize Healthcare Needs

– Spay or neuter your dog.

– Provide regular preventative care to keep your dog healthy. Keep his teeth clean by brushing his teeth, and having them cleaned professionally as soon as this is needed.

– Take him to your primary care veterinarian for a checkup every year.

– Protect his mental and emotional health too. Chronic stress can affect his immune system, and make him prone to physical illness.

– Control your dog’s weight; provide him with plenty of safe exercise.

– Prevent emergencies; don’t let your dog roam unsupervised.

– Keep your dog’s safety in mind. Use a canine seatbelt or put him in a crate that is securely fastened in your car. Don’t put him in conditions where he may become subject to heatstroke or frostbite.

– Feed your dog the best food you can afford. Change his diet if it seems to cause any sort of digestive, skin or other type of problems.

PET INSURANCE: OVERVIEW

1. Think about your dog’s health, age, predisposition to accidents, and risk of inherited disease to help you decide what level of coverage you should investigate.

2. Get price quotes from every company that offers plans that seem to meet your needs.

3. Ask your veterinarian (or her office staff) about the insurance providers they like the best; they should be able t o steer you away from companies that make their paperwork difficult to complete, or who reimburse owners very slowly.

4. If possible, don’t allow your coverage to lapse if your dog is diagnosed with a condition requiring ongoing treatment; it may be excluded as a pre-existing condition later in his life.

Lorie Long runs her two Border Terriers in agility and is the author of A Dog Who’s Always Welcome (Howell Books, 2008).

Canine Swimming Lessons: The Perfect Exercise For Your Dog

Canine swimming lessons make for fun exercise that also helps keep your dog safe.

For those of us who regularly swim for fitness, we know why swimming is often referred to as “the perfect exercise.” In addition to the physical benefits shared with other forms of aerobic exercise, swimming offers some unique benefits. It eliminates the effects of weight-bearing on the joints, exercises the entire body – upper and lower – at the same time, and, in most cases, is something we can do for our entire lives, even if age precludes us from taking part in other forms of exercise.

The physical benefits of swimming are the same for your canine companion as they are for you – that is, if you have a dog who will swim. Even though they actually have a stroke named after them, the notion that all dogs are “natural swimmers” is an erroneous one.

Canine Swimming

Some breeds were developed to work in water and are more physically adapted for swimming than others. The problem here is not getting these dogs into the water, but keeping them on terra firma when we want them to stay clean and dry. However, occasionally, even a water breed shows disdain for water – yes, there are some Labrador Retrievers who hate swimming.

Conversely, there are dogs you’d never imagine taking kindly to the water who become devoted and skilled swimmers. Although not blessed with the physical advantages of a water breed, and despite sinking rear ends or heavy, wet coats, these Boston Terriers, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, and Siberian Huskies have learned to enjoy swimming. They don’t know or care that they have to work a little harder than a Poodle, Cocker Spaniel, or a Newfoundland – they just want to have fun!

Some dogs may simply not like the sensation of being in water. But many dogs fear the water for precisely the same reason that many humans do: they don’t know how to swim! But suppose you could help your dog overcome his dislike, or fear, of water by teaching him how to swim? Think of the years of fun ahead for your dog if he learns to love the water. It’s also a skill that may come in handy someday when you need to rehabilitate an injury your dog has sustained, or when joint disease makes weight-bearing exercise too painful. And if you live near or on the water, or own a pool, teaching your dog to swim becomes a matter of safety.

 

Swimming lessons
We know that introducing a young puppy to all sorts of novel stimuli is important in developing a well adapted, socialized adult dog. Puppies between the ages of roughly 6 to 16 weeks more easily overcome fears of new objects, people, and situations than will older puppies and dogs.

Exposure to water is no exception. If you have a young puppy, take advantage of this period to get your puppy used to the water and to teach him to swim. If you have an older puppy or adult dog, even one who already has shown a dislike for the water, you may still be able to teach your dog to swim and enjoy it. It just may take a little longer. Some dogs take to swimming almost immediately. Others may take weeks before they feel confident.

There is no faster way to make a dog fear water than to drop him into it. Believing all dogs are “natural swimmers,” there are people who try to teach their dogs to swim by doing exactly this. Never drop your dog into water; it is cruel and may quickly end his swimming career before it starts. You will want to accompany your dog into the water to teach him to swim, so dress accordingly – anything from bare feet and rolled-up pants to a bikini will work! Expose your dog gradually to water, whether a pool, stream, pond, lake, or the ocean. The focus of your training is to teach your dog to enjoy being in water. To make the experience as positive as possible, be sure the conditions are optimal – a warm day, warmer water temperature, shallow entry to the water, and little distraction.

Pond or lake shorelines are ideal for getting your dog accustomed to being near the water. Walk slowly along the shoreline with your dog on-leash. If he is clearly uncomfortable with your proximity to the water, move a bit farther away. Praise your dog as he walks with you, feeding him treats that are especially yummy, or coaxing him and rewarding him with a coveted toy (preferably one that is waterproof and floats).

Advance only when ready
When he is clearly comfortable walking along the shoreline at a distance from the water, try walking a little closer to the water. Continue to praise him lavishly and reward him the treats or a toy. When your dog progresses to moving closer to the water with no signs of anxiety, try continuing your stroll at the water’s edge. Walk in an inch or two of water and allow your dog to get his feet wet. Make a fuss over his bravery.

Unless your dog shows an interest in wading into deeper water on his own, this is a good place to stop training for the day. End on a positive note. If you are successful in helping your dog feel comfortable just being close to the water, you’ve had a good first day of training. Your dog is beginning to learn that good, fun things happen around the water!

Canine Swimming

Your next step is to encourage your dog, with treats or a toy, into venturing a little deeper. Continue to walk, play, praise, and treat, gradually increasing the depth of the water to no higher than your dog’s belly. Watch closely for any signs of anxiety, and if present, return to a depth where your dog is having fun and is relaxed and comfortable.

Once your dog is comfortable in water that is up to his belly, it is time to begin the real swimming lesson. Place your hands underneath your dog’s midsection and hindquarters for support, suspend him in the water and move him slowly forward into deeper water for a foot or two. He should soon start paddling as you support him and move him through the water. His stroke technique won’t be pretty at first – he may claw the air above the water with his front paws and barely move his hind legs – but with repetition, his form will improve.

Relax and speak calmly and happily to your dog while moving him through the water. Return him to where he was standing previously – and praise and reward him. You may even move him toward his favorite floating toy and allow him to snatch it up as a reward.

Up a creek with a paddle
When your dog is paddling gracefully with his front paws as well as with his hindquarters, it’s time to have your dog try to swim on his own. Encourage your dog to swim to you for a short distance in water that is a little over his head. Use a treat or a toy to lure him and reward him. See if he will swim back in on his own as well, with you leading the way. If he is not ready to swim on his own, spend more time getting him comfortable paddling with your hands supporting him.

As your dog becomes accustomed to swimming on his own for short distances, you may try tossing his toy out a little farther, or calling him to you from farther away.

Keep your dog on-leash during the training in case he gets distracted or confused and has difficulty reaching shore. A harness on your dog is preferable to a collar for attaching the leash. If you have to help your dog reach the shore by gently pulling on the leash, using a harness will prevent stress on your dog’s neck and will not interfere with his ability to hold his head above water. Use a longer leash or nylon line for safety as your dog swims for increasing distances, adjusting the slack as he swims so he doesn’t become entangled.

For the occasional inexperienced but confident puppy or dog you may be able to shorten the swim training process. Introduce your dog to the water by bringing along a canine friend who already swims. Your dog may very well follow his friend into the water and even attempt to swim on his own. Just be prepared to help if your brave dog exceeds his abilities. Keep him on a leash or line, and be close by in case he needs you to support him while he perfects his doggie paddle.

If you are training your dog to swim in a pool, the process is the same. Train gradually around the pool, at the pool’s edge, on the first step or ramp into the pool, then slowly progress to moving him into the water while supporting him with your hands.

Swimming uses a lot of energy and is especially tiring until swimming-specific endurance builds. Keep your training sessions short at first, gradually increasing duration.

With practice, your dog will soon be swimming longer distances with ease. When your dog is swimming regularly for exercise, remember to have him take breaks often. Dogs who love to swim will swim to exhaustion, risking hyperthermia and drowning. Always supervise your dog’s swim sessions and be prepared to help if he finds himself in trouble.

Where to swim
Rivers are dangerous places to allow your dog to swim because of the underlying currents in moving water. But swimming pools, lakes, ponds, creeks, and the ocean can all be great places for dogs to swim. Each venue comes with its own list of safety hazards and precautions to insure that your dog survives his water adventures healthy and happy.

Swimming pools

•If you have a backyard swimming pool, have it securely fenced in to keep your dog (as well as children) out of the pool when you are not actively supervising.

•If your pool is covered when not in use, firmly secure the cover to prevent your dog from slipping underneath.

•Alarm systems are available that alert when the surface of the water in your pool is broken. Or you can get an alarm that attaches to your dog’s collar and alerts when submerged. (See “Resources,” page 24, for contact information for these and other products mentioned in this article.)

•Your pool should have a ramp or graduated steps for your dog to be able to exit the water. Dogs cannot use ladders! If your pool has no usable exit for your dog, install an escape tool for pets, such as a Skamper-Ramp. Teach your dog where to exit the pool. If your dog falls in the pool and cannot get out, he will eventually tire of paddling and drown.

•If your pool is chlorinated, hose off or bathe your dog after he swims. Chlorine can dry his coat and skin and make him sick if he licks himself. Don’t allow your dog to drink the chlorinated pool water; keep a bowl of fresh water poolside.

•Don’t have your own pool? If the idea of your dog swimming in a clean, confined, safe area appeals to you, check to see if there are any indoor doggie swimming pools or pet therapy pools in your area. You may be able to pay by the hour for use of the pool for one or multiple dogs.

 

If you live in a colder climate, indoor swimming is an option for continuing your dog’s favorite activity in the cold winter months. These pools are kept fairly warm (75 degrees or more), making the water more comfortable for older dogs and tentative new swimmers.

Lakes and ponds

•Even the most skilled canine swimmers may become distracted or confused and get lost in a larger body of water. Outfit your dog with a pet flotation device, keep her in your sights at all times, and be prepared to enter the water and help her if needed. Attaching a long leash or line to your dog will always keep you connected.

•Blue-green algae in ponds and lakes is toxic if ingested. An overgrowth of blue-green algae causes the water to appear cloudy with a blue-green hue. Avoid water that is contaminated with blue-green algae; if you suspect that your dog has had contact with or swallowed contaminated water, call your vet immediately.

•Although not all types of algae are toxic to dogs, ponds and lakes in many parks, subdivisions, and golf courses are treated with chemicals to prevent excessive algae growth. Some of these chemicals cause only skin irritation, but others may cause liver damage or neurological damage. Check with the appropriate sources to find out if chemicals are used to treat the water. Call your vet immediately if you suspect chemical poisoning in your dog from swimming in a chemically contaminated lake or pond.

•Lakes and ponds in rural areas may contain herbicides, pesticides, or fertilizers from drainage run-off from local farms. Lakes that allow motor boating may have higher concentrations of petroleum products. Always rinse your dog after swimming in lakes and ponds, and watch for any signs of illness or toxicity.

•While nearly impossible to prevent your dog from drinking the water in his favorite freshwater swimming hole, provide clean water and encourage your dog to drink it. Drinking water from ponds, lakes and streams can lead to an infection of giardia, an intestinal parasite that can cause serious illness.

•If you live in, or are traveling to, a state where alligators live, be aware that they do attack and kill dogs. Keep your dog away from all lakes, ponds, rivers, marshes, wetlands, and swamps. A pool may be your dog’s only option (and you may even want to make sure the pool is reptile-free!).

•Beware of conditions that may injure your dog or put his life at risk. Look for broken glass on the shoreline. Fallen tree limbs in the water that may catch on your dog’s harness or flotation device. Old fishing line underwater may wrap around your dog’s leg. Keep your dog in your vision. If conditions such as water temperature, depth, or distance to your swimming dog would prevent you from safely entering the water to help your dog if needed, you should not allow your dog to swim.

The ocean

•While many dogs enjoy a romp in the surf at a dog-friendly beach, large waves can knock your dog over and strong tides and undercurrents can pull him under. Or your dog may be so focused on retrieving his drifting ball that he swims out beyond his limits. A doggie life jacket is essential when swimming in the ocean. Attaching a long lead to your dog may prevent you having to swim out after him if he is pulled out to sea.

•Check the water for sea lice and jellyfish. Sea lice can cause red, itchy bumps on your dog’s skin. Jellyfish sting! •Discourage your dog from drinking seawater; it will make him sick. Offer fresh water to him frequently.

•Salt and other minerals in seawater may damage your dog’s coat and irritate his skin. Rinse him off when you leave the beach.

•Keep your dog away from any dead fish or shellfish that have washed ashore.

•Check your dog’s paws for irritation or burning from hot sand on the beach.

Anywhere

•Be sure your dog has a shady place to rest and plenty of fresh water to drink.

•Dogs can sunburn, especially shorthaired, pink-skinned dogs. Apply sunscreen made for dogs to ears and nose. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun between the hours of 10 a.m. and 3p.m.

•Heatstroke is also a risk. Familiarize yourself with the symptoms (see “Running with Your Dog,” WDJ February 2009) and take preventive measures; limit your dog’s activity in warmer temperatures and direct exposure to the sun.

•Train your dog to “Come” on cue, even in the water. This may prevent him from swimming too far after a duck or his toy, and you from having to come to his aid.

•Clean and dry your dog’s ears after a swim. While especially important after swimming in dirty lakes and ponds, water retained in the ear creates a hospitable environment for bacteria and yeast to grow, no matter where your dog has been swimming.

•Watch for signs that your dog is tiring. Swimming is a strenuous activity and endurance is achieved slowly. Remember that older dogs, even experienced swimmers, no longer have the strength, agility or endurance that they once had. A tired dog is a good dog on land, but in the water, a tired dog is a dog in big trouble.

•Learn how to take care of your dog if injured when swimming. Organizations that offer courses in Pet CPR and First Aid include the American Red Cross and the American Safety & Health Institute.

Swimming with your dog
Perhaps you’re interested in having your dog swim alongside you so you can work out together. Most people just supervise their dogs when swimming, or wade with them in shallow water. But some folks have their dogs accompany them on swims, and with proper training and conditioning, some dogs progress to swimming long distances with their owners.

Canine Swimming

Photo by Keith Kerns

My first experience of swimming alongside a dog was many years ago with my Lab, Max. He was so focused on retrieving his ball or stick that he barely paid attention to my presence in the water. He could not have cared less about swimming alongside me; if there wasn’t an object thrown for him to retrieve, or a duck or boat to chase, what was the point of swimming? So I swam alongside him on his retrievals.

Not every dog who swims will swim alongside you willingly. If your dog follows you as you move through the water, that’s a good first step. If he swims to you and claws at you, you have a problem. Try training with a cue such as “Leave it” or “Off” that will let him know not to make physical contact with you. Practice in shallow water at first, with your dog wading beside you, and gradually progress to deeper water where he must swim but you can still walk. Eventually, if you can get him to swim alongside you without contact, slowly increase the distance and duration of your swims. If you breathe to one side when you swim, make sure your dog is always on your breathing side so he remains in your sight.

Landlubbers
My next “swimming” dog was my first Ridgeback, Kimba. I respected his dislike for water after many attempts to acclimate him. But if I would dive off the dock into the lake he would howl and hurl his body into the water after me, seemingly panicked that I was in danger. His stroke consisted of clawing the sky in a frenzy while moving toward me. If I didn’t swim away from him fast enough, my 95-pound personal canine lifeguard would claw me, leaving me bruised and bloodied. I quickly learned to leave him inside when I went for a dip.

So despite your attempts to create a positive association with water, what if your dog would rather have you cut into the quick of a toenail than to venture near the pool or get within sight of the ocean? It’s time to throw in the beach towel and respect your dog’s feelings. Some dogs who don’t take to swimming still enjoy wading and splashing in a kiddie pool or running through a sprinkler to cool off. Even if you are able to teach your dog to swim but he is clearly not enjoying himself, abandon your goal of creating a canine Michael Phelps. Take your dog out for walk, run, or a rigorous game of fetch, and just enjoy being active together.

Susan Sarubin lives, swims, bikes, runs, and trains dogs in Baltimore, Maryland. Her training business is Pawsitive Fit, LLC. Susan is also the Maryland State Coordinator for Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue, Inc. See her website at pawsitivefit.com for more information.

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Disaster Prevention

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Our resident training expert, Pat Miller, often sends me dog-related news articles; she’s practically a one-woman canine news service! A couple of months ago, she sent me a disturbing article about a dog who was euthanized after attacking his owner, who had been trying to clip his nails. We agreed that we should remind our readers why they should regularly trim their dogs’ nails – and how to use positive training techniques to teach their dogs how to absolutely love the process.

Nancy Kerns

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One important aspect of the sad story of the euthanized dog was that his owner had previously used intimidation to force the dog to go along with the practice. When he growled at her, expressing his discomfort and fear with the process, she told him “No!” Pat reminds us why a dog owners should never scold or punish a dog for growling. (It doesn’t make the dog feel any better about what he’s growling about, and if you succeed in suppressing his growl, you’ve just eliminated the only warning you might get before he bites you in the face of overwhelming stress.)

Last month, experienced triathlete Susan Sarubin described how to safely start a running program with your dog. This month, she discusses cycling with canines; we will present her article on swimming your dog in an upcoming issue. I should note that Sarubin largely disapproves of one practice that I indulge in regularly with my dog, Otto: mountain biking with him off-leash. I learned a lot from her warnings about this activity, and while I plan to continue our bike rides, I am going to put some of her suggestions into practice.

Some readers have asked me about how my dog Otto is doing; I haven’t said much about him in the past two issues. I appreciate your interest, and share an updated report on his continuing progress (and occasional setbacks) in “Social Matters,” Also in this issue is a primer on what is sometimes a devastating disease: EPI, or Endocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency, written by a dog owner with first-hand experience with the disease. See “Starving, Not Starved.”

Corrections
In “Choosing Good Foods,” in the February issue, we listed Taplow Feeds as the company that sells FirstMate Pet Foods. FirstMate is manufactured in the company’s own plant, which is called Taplow Feeds, but the company name should have been listed as FirstMate Pet Foods. We apologize for the error.

We also failed to include one company on our “2009 Approved Dry Foods” list, whose information we had obtained and whose products we admire. Champion Petfoods Ltd., of Morinville, Alberta, makes its Orijen and Acana (high-protein, low-carb) dry dog foods in its own plant. See orijen.ca or call (780) 939-6888 for more information.

Train Your Dog to Behave During Grooming

Two months ago, I read a news story about a dog owner in Minnesota who had shared her home and her life with her 10-year-old Great Pyrenees for eight years. On December 30, 2008, the dog attacked his owner as she was trying to trim his nails, sending her to the hospital for multiple bite wounds to her arms. The news report on the incident stated, “[The dog owner] was able to reach another room and closed the door, keeping the dog out.”

The owner in this sad story was treated and released from the hospital the same day. The dog is now dead – euthanized at the veterinary hospital for safety reasons, at the owner’s request. Nail-trimming should not be a matter of life and death. Nor should any other routine grooming procedure. If a dog objects strongly to any sort of physical contact or restraint that may occur in the process of ordinary care, a smart, responsible owner needs to take immediate steps to overcome his objections in a positive, nonaversive manner. Fortunately, this process (described in detail below) is not difficult (or dangerous!) to do – but it does take a serious commitment of time.

Dog Grooming

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Why not use force?
Most of us are pressed for time, and many dog owners may squirm at the thought of yet another dog-care duty that requires the investment of a lot of time (in addition to other training and exercise chores). So why not simply restrain the dog and firmly tell him “No!” if he growls or otherwise objects to the pedicure or other grooming?

The news story of the Minnesota woman and her Great Pyrenees is sadly instructive in this regard. The article I read quoted the dog’s owner as saying that the dog had always been “very, very touchy” about his paws. She even said he had attacked “mildly” before, but she had been able to get him to stop. “He would growl, and generally I could say, ‘Stop it,’ and get him to stop,” she was quoted as saying. “This morning, it didn’t stop.” She then went on to say that for reasons that remained “unclear,” the dog attacked her.

Wait a second. This dog has been telling her for eight years that he didn’t want her to touch his paws. The owner lays out all the reasons the attack occurred, and then says the reasons for it are unclear? How much clearer could it be? This is a classic example of a human totally ignoring her dog’s attempts to communicate with her, this time with a very tragic ending.

Stress is the underlying factor behind almost all aggression – idiopathic aggression being the rare exception (see “Rage Without Reason,” Whole Dog Journal June 2004). We know that suppressing aggressive behavior doesn’t change aggressive behavior; it just drives it underground where it simmers, likely to smash its way out when the stress becomes too great and pushes the dog over his bite threshold – like it did with this Great Pyrenees. In this dog’s case, at age 10 (advanced age for the giant breeds), there may also have been additional stressors such as arthritis, or other age-related conditions. If grasping his paws to clip nails caused him pain, that would have been an additional stressor that further exacerbated his reaction.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not condemning the owner’s decision to euthanize a dog who caused her serious injury. It’s difficult, if not impossible, to repair a dog-owner relationship that has been damaged this badly. Rehoming a 10-year-old dog with a history of aggressive behavior isn’t generally realistic, either. The real tragedy was the eight years that led up to the final act in this drama – eight years in which the dog tried as best he knew without hurting his owner, to tell her that nail trimming made him very uncomfortable. Eight years during which the owner could have modified his behavior, rather than suppressing it.

Suppressing behavior
Behavior suppression is a regrettably popular approach to behavior modification in some circles today. This is partly a carryover from old-fashioned training methods. It has also experienced a large resurgence in popularity due to its regular use on a high-profile television show. But its popularity is also bolstered by the fact that, sometimes, it works.

There is something inherently satisfying to us humans when we tell someone to stop doing something and they stop. At least for the moment. What it doesn’t do is change the underlying motivation for the behavior.

Dogs do things that are reinforced – the behavior either makes a good thing happen (positive reinforcement), or makes a bad thing go away (negative reinforcement). A dog is motivated to do a behavior because it works to do one of those two things. They are also motivated to stop doing behaviors that are punished – the behavior makes good things go away (negative punishment), or makes bad things happen (positive punishment).

Aggression, which is initially an emotional response to stress, can be influenced by reinforcement and punishment. Over the years, that Great Pyrenees’s growling in response to having his paws touched was probably negatively reinforced at least some of the time, since wise humans back off when a dog growls. The dog learned that sometimes people stopped touching his paws if he growled. Intermittent reinforcement makes a behavior very durable. When a behavior is reinforced sometimes, it’s hard to make that behavior go away.

However, sometimes the dog’s growling didn’t work. Not only did his owner continued to mess with his paws, when he got more forceful about trying to make the bad thing go away, his owner got violent in response. So the positive punishment stopped the aggressive behavior for the moment, but it didn’t make it go away, and it didn’t alter the dog’s underlying emotional response to the procedure that stressed him. The violence suppressed the behavior, but it didn’t change it.

Modifying behavior
If instead of suppressing his aggression in response to paw handling, his owner had taught the Great Pyrenees to love nail trimming, the pair wouldn’t be mentioned in this article. But another dog and owner well might be. I dare say there are thousands upon thousands of dogs who don’t like having their nails trimmed, and whose discomfort signals in response to the procedure have been suppressed. Their lives – and their humans’ lives – would be much happier if someone took the time to do a little behavior modification.

My own personal canine behavior science lab gives me plenty of nail-trimming material to work with. Three of our four dogs weren’t too happy about pedicures when we first acquired them. Two of the three were unhappy about having their paws touched, much less having their nails trimmed. Dubhy, our Scottie, suffered from severe allergies when we found him. His paws were raw and bleeding. No wonder he was sensitive about them! Lucy the Corgi, on the other hand, is just generally touchy about being touched. Bonnie the Scorgidoodle is fine about touching, even her paws, but doesn’t like the restraint and pressure on her nails that goes along with the clipping. Here’s how we “fixed” each one:

Trimming A Dog's Nails

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Lucy (sensitive to all touch): Since Lucy was touch sensitive in general, I used counter-conditioning and desensitization to help her overcome her dislike of being touched on her legs and body. (See “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization to Touch,” previous pages). This also included other grooming procedures – brushing, looking at her teeth, and cleaning her ears – as well as giving her a positive association with restraint and hugging. Our ultimate solution to nail trimming involved the use of her “Wait” behavior. After we had completed her paw/nail clipper-touch desensitization protocol, I did the following:

1.Told Lucy to “Down” and “Wait.”

2.Placed a yummy treat 12 inches in front of her nose.

3.Clipped one nail.

4.Told her “Take it!” so she could jump up and eat the treat.

5.Repeated steps 1 through 4 for each subsequent next nail.

She now absolutely adores the nail clipping procedure, and I clip multiple nails in between “Take it!” cues, always keeping it random so she never knows which nail clip will result in the treat cue.

Dubhy and Bonnie (unhappy about having paws touched): I also did a paw/clipper touch desensitization protocol with Dubhy, until he was comfortable having his paws touched and his nails trimmed. However, he and Bonnie both have those awful, dense, black toenails that require heavy pressure on the clippers, which they both found aversive despite counter-conditioning. Plus, it’s devilishly hard to know where the quick is on a solid black nail, and despite my most careful attention, from time to I managed to “quick” them both. You can imagine how painful (and aversive) that must be – and how much of a setback that is even to the most careful modification program (see “A Quick Recovery,” next page).

I had to overcome a negative association of my own to implement the ultimate solution to Dubhy and Bonnie’s nail-trimming challenge. A decade ago while conducting a nail-trimmer product review for Whole Dog Journal (“You Nailed It!” February 1999), I tested a nail-grinder. One of my dogs, the wonderful Josie, was a terrier-mix with hairy feet, and I neglected to keep her fur pulled back from the grinder. It got tangled in the mechanism and yanked painfully on her paw. I’ve been reluctant to use a grinder ever since. Yet I knew it was the right answer to my current two dogs’ nail trimming difficulties, so I bucked up and tried it, using a nylon stocking over their paws to hold back their fur. (The nails poked through a hole in the stocking toe for grinding.)

After some desensitization to the sound of the grinder, both Bonnie and Dubhy are much more comfortable with nail trimming (and still get lots of treats). Their nails look better than they ever have in their lives – and we’re all much happier!

Note: The “as seen on TV” battery-powered nail grinders are inexpensive, and have a built-in guard that prevents hair from tangling in the grinder. However, they’re not very powerful, so it takes a while to get the job done and you go through a lot of batteries. The more expensive models that you can find in pet supply stores, catalogs, and Web-based pet supply businesses are worth the extra cost.

Operant conditioning
I often hear dog owners say, “I don’t need to trim my dog’s nails; she runs on pavement (or rocks, or sand) and keeps them worn down herself. “Great,” I think to myself – and sometimes say out loud. “When your dog becomes a less-active senior citizen and no longer wears her nails down, then you’ll face the battle, when it will be even more challenging after all those years to convince her to let you hold her paws and trim her nails.”

If you prefer to let your dog file her own nails, there’s an operant conditioning approach that will still work when your dog is in her golden years. Positive trainer Shirley Chong in Grinnell, Iowa, suggests taking a board 8 to 12 inches wide and 24 to 26 inches long, covering it with slip-proof tape or coarse sandpaper, and teaching your dog to paw at the board to file his own nails. She describes the procedure in detail at shirleychong.com/keepers/nailfile.html. I haven’t tried this procedure yet myself, but I bet all my dogs would enjoy some shaping sessions learning how to do this; it sounds like great fun! The bottom line is, there are a lot of things the owner of the Great Pyrenees could have done over the years to help her dog tolerate, accept, even love having his nails done. If she had, he’d be alive today. If your dog doesn’t like having his nails done, don’t wait; help him learn to love the procedure now. Don’t let nail trimming kill your best friend.

Thanks to Sandi Thompson, of Bravo!Pup Puppy and Dog Training, in Berkeley, California, for demonstrating counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. For contact information, see “Resources,” page 24.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog; and Play with Your Dog.

Bike Riding With Your Dog

Photo by Rick Galezowski

HOW TO BIKE WITH YOUR DOG: OVERVIEW

  • Start out slow. Get your dog comfortable with a parked bike before walking him alongside a bike you are pushing. Only when he’s comfortable with these things should you actually mount up and ride – slowly!
  • Always wear a helmet when cycling. If you need one more reason to convince you, consider this: If you fell and were knocked out, what would happen to your dog?
  • Ride at a conservative pace, for short distances, until your dog builds fitness.
  • If your dog’s enthusiasm or speed lags, stop and investigate. Offer him some water, and slow your pace on the way home.

You walk your dog several times daily, but it never seems to be enough exercise for your energetic pup. It probably isn’t. Healthy dogs need to run, and walking just isn’t an aerobic enough exercise for them. Running with your dog is a great aerobic exercise, but many people can’t run or simply don’t like running.

So how about biking with your dog? If you love to ride your bike and have a dog who loves to run, you may have considered sharing your rides with your best friend. Fresh air, exercise, time spent together having fun and creating your own adventures – it doesn’t get much better than that. And it seems so simple, right? Just you, your dog, a bike, a leash, and the open road, and you’re on your way.

Biking with Your Dog
There are several different products that fasten to your bike to allow you to safely lead your dog on a ride. This one is known as the K9 Bike Jogger (formerly known as WalkyDog).

Well, not exactly. But riding a bike with a running dog as a companion can be done safely. You just need to be willing to put in the time for training, invest in the proper equipment, and follow some safety rules to make the activity both fun and safe for you both.

Before You Bike with Your Dog:

If you and your dog are just beginning to exercise regularly or more strenuously, physical exams by your respective doctors are advisable. Safety precautions regarding age, breed, weight, and thickness of coat are the same as those for dogs who are beginning running programs with their running humans.

Check with your vet about when your young puppy’s growth plates are expected to close so you won’t risk injuring your puppy’s development by beginning a structured exercise program too soon. Some medium and large breed dogs are built for running endurance, but others, especially smaller breeds, can only run slowly for shorter distances. And as with all new forms of exercise, beginning slowly and building up duration and distance over time, no matter what condition you and your dog are in, is the safest way to go.

Dog-Leading Equipment for the Cyclist

If you don’t already have a bike, your local bike shop is a good place to start to figure out what type of bike will suit your needs for the terrain you plan to ride on. If you will ride on mainly paved roads, dirt roads, well-mowed fields, and smooth bike trails, then a hybrid bike may be your best choice. If you want the option of riding more rugged bike trails on which you must negotiate rocks, branches, streams, and tree roots, then a mountain bike is in order. You can still ride on more gentle terrain with a mountain bike, however you may want to replace the knobby tires with more slick ones if you plan to spend more time on the road. The bike shop staff can fit you for the proper size bike and make any adjustments necessary for a comfortable fit.

A helmet is the single most important piece of safety equipment for any cyclist at any level, from beginner to elite. Riding without a helmet is an invitation for a head injury, or worse, from a slow-speed tumble to a more serious crash or collision. Feeling the wind in your hair as you ride is not worth the risk of brain injury or death should you hit your head in a fall. And think of your dog’s safety. What exactly will happen to your dog while you lie unconscious after a crash?

Bright colored cycling clothing, a water bottle or two, spare tube, tire pump, tire repair kit, identification, money, and a cell phone are all safety items that you should have with you when you and your partner head out. Further equipment for the human half of the cycling duo has more to do with comfort than safety. Unless your bike comes with a big, cushy saddle, you will appreciate the extra cushioning that padded bicycle shorts will afford. You can also put a more comfortable saddle on your bike, or add a gel-filled seat cover.

Beginners commonly use running shoes or light hiking boots, but cycling shoes designed specifically for the sport are recommended. They are rigid and allow minimal flexion of the foot. If you continue to use a more flexible shoe on your bike, over time you may experience foot problems. Your bike shop staff can recommend the best shoe for your needs.

Biking Equipment for Your Dog

For your dog’s safety, a colorful, reflective collar with ID tags and a reflective vest for high visibility are recommended. But there is one critical piece of equipment you need to invest in to assure that cycling with your dog is as safe as possible.

You may have seen someone riding his bike while holding his dog’s leash in his hand on the handlebars. Or perhaps with the leash tied to the seat post of the bike. Both of these practices are unsafe for you and your dog and may result in tragic consequences.

When you ride while holding a dog’s leash in your hand, the dog can easily pull you off balance causing a crash, or you could collide with your dog if he runs in front of your front tire. If he lags behind, you may be pulled backward, possibly falling and sustaining an injury. Then there’s the possibility of the leash becoming entangled in the wheel spokes, perhaps resulting in serious injury to you both.

Attaching your dog’s leash to the seat post, your center of gravity when you ride, makes pulling a little less of an issue, and is therefore considered safer by some cyclists. While never testing this theory, I know that I wouldn’t have a chance of staying upright if Aero, my 98-pound Rhodesian Ridgeback, were to suddenly lunge for a squirrel while attached by leash to my seat post. And other dangers, like your dog getting too close to your bike and become entangled, are still present.

So how then, can you ride safely together? Fortunately, there are some devices on the market designed to facilitate a safer, more comfortable ride with your canine companion. Bike attachments such as the Springer, K9 Bike Jogger, and BikerDog allow you to keep both hands on your handlebars while keeping your dog at a safe distance from your bike.

The Springer attaches to the frame of your bike and the K9Bike Jogger attaches to the seat post. Both use coil spring shock absorbing mechanisms to reduce the effect of a dog pulling. The BikerDog attaches to the frame of your bike near your rear wheel and uses a flexible, hard plastic post to control pulling.

Each device attaches by a cord or leash to the dog’s collar or harness. For greater safety, use a harness to put less stress on the dog’s neck. The BikerDog comes with a harness, but the WalkyDog and Springer do not (the Springer used to come with a harness, but no longer does). It’s best to use your dog’s own well-fitting harness with all of these. And you can attach two of these devices to your bike if you are interested in biking with two dogs at once (one on each side of the bike).

Many users of these bike attachments are not only happy with the increased safety they provide, but also claim that their dogs stay focused on running beside the bike and attempt to pull less than when walking on leash.

Bike attachments for cycling with your dog install on either side of your bike. Which side your dog runs on is a matter of preference. If your dog is accustomed to walking or running on your left side, this may be the most natural position for training for bicycling. However, there are other considerations, especially if you ride on roads. As a pedestrian, you should walk or run against (facing) traffic. Having your dog on your left side when on foot keeps your dog safely away from passing cars. But moving vehicles, including bikes, are required by law to travel with traffic, on the right side of the road. Your dog is in a more vulnerable position running on the left side of your bike next to traffic.

Initial Bike Training for Dogs

Try to remember your first experiences riding a bike. You may have graduated from a tricycle to a two-wheeler, and just the sight of the two-wheeler may have caused a little anxiety. Getting on it was even scarier. Mom or Dad probably held the bike while you tentatively pedaled for the first time, and it took most of us a couple of sessions before we were ready for Mom or Dad to let go of us. Even when finally pedaling on our own, we had to learn to negotiate turns, slow down, stop, and many more skills and safety rules. At first we could only go for short distances on our bikes, but soon felt we could fly around the world!

To become a good cycling companion, a dog needs to go through a learning curve similar to the one you experienced as a child learning to ride your bike. Your dog should be comfortable around your bike, when you are both stationary and moving. He needs to be familiar with any equipment you use, and learn how to slow down, turn, and stop. And just as you started slowly on your first bike, the time and distance your dog accompanies you on bike rides should increase gradually.

Even if your dog is accustomed to seeing your bike leaning against the wall in your home or garage, it’s probably viewed as just another piece of furniture (that you curiously remove from the house on occasion!). Some dogs are fearful of moving bicycles, so you may need to help your dog become comfortable around your bike.

In your house or garage, start by holding your bike, calling your dog to you, and allowing him to sniff it. Praise him, pet him, and give him a yummy treat to reward his bravery. Lay your bike down, sit on the floor next to your bike, and repeat the exercise. You can even place treats on the tires, the frame, and the pedals, playing a game with your dog while he begins to associate this strange machine with having fun. Next, walk a few steps with your bike and encourage your dog to follow, using praise and treats. Continue to practice indoors, eventually adding your dog’s harness and leash, and moving outdoors only when your dog is comfortable walking alongside you and your bike.

Outdoors, repeat the same walking exercise on-leash. Gradually add in some distractions: walk over a curb, over the lawn, on top of a utility hole cover, over a speed bump, through a puddle. Move the bike so it wobbles, make some turns, walk faster then slower, even jog a little. If your dog shows any signs of apprehension, you have progressed too quickly. You may need to practice over several days before your dog will happily walk alongside you and your bike with distractions. When your dog handles these challenges with ease, teach him some cues for behaviors that you will use to guide him when you ride, such as “Slow,” “Stop,” “Easy,” “Turn,” and “Leave It.”

Beware the “Bike Monster”

If you use a bike attachment to connect your dog to your bicycle, never walk away from your parked bike with your dog still attached to it. If your dog decides to follow you, or lunges after a passing squirrel, the bike will come crashing down. If you’re lucky, it won’t fall on your dog, but at the very least the crash will frighten him. Still attached, your dog will try to run away from the scary machine that crashed next to him. The bike then becomes a mechanical monster, chasing him as he tries to escape.

This could end your dog’s career as your riding partner, unless you are able to desensitize him once again to something that he is now terrified of. So to keep the “bike monster” at bay, always detach your dog from the bike when you step away.

Starting to Ride

Now that your dog walks happily next to you and your bike on-leash, it should be no problem to switch to the cord or leash of a bike attachment such as the Springer, K9 Bike Jogger, or BikerDog. Continue to practice walking with your dog attached to your bike, and if he shows no signs of uneasiness, get on your bike and pedal slowly. If you have gradually accustomed your dog to moving with your bike, he will likely be happy to trot alongside you. Take him for a slow, short excursion, using lots of encouragement, praise, and treats.

Future rides should increase slowly in time and distance, working up to a steady trot. After several rides together, you will begin to develop a feeling for your dog’s natural pace. Your dog may try to keep up until he drops, never showing signs of discomfort, no matter what speed you ride. It is important for you to let him set the pace. After your dog is in good running shape, you can add some brief accelerations, bringing your dog to a gallop. But use a comfortable trotting pace for the bulk of your rides.

The frequency, distance, and duration of your rides with your dog depend on many factors. Age, breed, size, fitness level, coat, running surface, and weather should be considered. Keep your dog well-hydrated, familiarize yourself with the symptoms of heatstroke (see “Running With Your Dog,” Whole Dog Journal February 2009), inspect his paw pads often, check for harness chafing, and watch for signs of lameness or waning enthusiasm. Increasing distance and duration slowly will help prevent soreness and injury, allowing your dog’s respiratory and musculoskeletal systems to adapt to increasing workloads.

Where to Ride a Bike with Dogs

Riding with your dog on roads with traffic is dangerous. While the shoulder of a road may safely accommodate you when riding alone, your width triples when you attach a dog to your bike. You are a much larger target around road curves and for careless drivers. Being honked at constantly by impatient motorists may also scare your dog, and it definitely takes some of the fun out of your ride!

If you live in a rural area with lightly traveled paved or dirt roads, you are in luck, as long as you are still cautious of passing vehicles. But even if you live in a densely populated area, there are safe options for biking with your dog, some closer than you may think. You may need to load your dog and bike into your car for a short drive, but for a safe, fun ride with your best buddy, it’s worth it.

If you live close to a linear park (former railroad beds converted for recreation), you have access to perhaps the best place of all to bike with your dog. Trail surfaces may be dirt, wood chips, soft cinder, or paved, but most continue for miles of flat, scenic riding. Quiet neighborhoods with little traffic, especially on certain days or times, are another good choice.

Taking your dog with you when biking on rugged terrain presents more challenges. It’s difficult and dangerous to negotiate obstacles with your dog attached to your mountain bike, especially on single-track trails. And even the most experienced mountain bikers have occasional falls or crashes. Injury to both rider and dog could result from one of these mishaps.

Allowing your dog to run off-leash, if allowed, on remote mountain bike trails presents its own set of problems. Mountain biking is more physically demanding and it is difficult to keep track of your dog with the increased concentration necessary when riding on rugged trails. Your dog may take off after a bird or animal and get lost or injured in the chase. There’s the danger of snakebites. Being free to drink in streams and puddles can lead to an infection of giardia, an intestinal parasite that can cause serious illness. And it is more difficult for you to determine your dog’s comfortable pace, possibly leading him to exceed his running limits.

The idea of allowing your dog to run freely in the woods with you is better than the reality of biking with your dog off-leash. If you love to mountain bike, consider leaving your biking partner at home on those rides and schedule other rides together in safer locations.

Riding Into the Woods Together?

There are serious risks in running your dog off-leash in the woods while you mountain bike on remote trails. If you feel the benefits outweigh the risks for your particular dog, please consider the following additional safety precautions:

1. Train your dog to respond to cues that will help keep him safe when running loose in the woods while you are supervising from your bike. “Come,” “Over Here,” “Easy,” “Leave It,” and “Drop it” are behaviors that you can teach your dog at home and then practice on-leash while walking in the woods until he performs these behaviors reliably. If your dog ventures off on his own on the trails, he may endanger other cyclists as well as himself.

2. Bike with another cyclist. If your dog is lost or injured, you will have someone to help find him, to go get help, or to help transport your injured dog out of the woods. And if you get injured, there will be someone to help you and your dog.

3. When entering a trail, walk your bike with your dog on leash for a safe distance from the road before releasing him and beginning to ride. Always have your dog‘s leash available. You never know when you‘ll need it.

4. Outfit your dog with a bright neon reflective vest, or flashing light that attaches to your dog’s collar. Not only is it easier for you to spot your dog while riding, it distinguishes your dog as a pet to other cyclists, trail runners, or hikers, as opposed to a wild animal they may fear. And if your dog is lost and the sun sets, a flashing light may save his life.

5. Use a breakaway collar. which could prevent serious injury (or even death) if your dog’s collar snags on something when running. If this is a collar that you only use for your mountain biking excursions, make sure it has your dog’s ID attached. All dogs should carry an implanted microchip ID or tattooed ID as a backup.

6. Attach a bell to your dog’s collar – that is, one that’s loud enough to be heard at a reasonable distance. This will give you an auditory indicator of his whereabouts as you ride – as well as warn wild animals that your dog is in the area. Or try one of the CPS pet tracking devices available, so you can track your dog for a far greater distance.

7. Hydrate your dog regularly on your ride, and train him not to drink from puddles and streams to avoid an infection of giardia, an intestinal parasite that may cause serious illness.

8. Take a pet first aid/CPR course. It’s a great idea for all dog owners, but even more so for owners of dogs engaging in higher risk activities.

9. Carry a small first aid kit, with your other safety items, in your saddle pack (which attaches to your seat post under the rear of your saddle), in case your dog is injured and you are far from the trailhead. Stock your kit with antiseptic wipes, antibiotic ointment, cotton pads, vet wrap (to bandage a laceration, for a tourniquet, or to splint a broken bone), and some Rescue Remedy for calming your stressed dog. Your dog’s leash can be used to muzzle your injured dog if needed.

10. Inspect your dog for cuts, scrapes, and ticks after any outing in the woods. Cuts and scrapes may become infected if not treated. Even if you use a tick preventative and your dog is vaccinated for Lyme’s disease, there are no guarantees when it comes to these nasty critters feasting on your dog and possibly causing disease.

Bicycling for Non-Athletes

You don’t have to deprive yourself of your buddy’s company on your rides if your dog is a toy breed, has special needs, or is an older dog and no longer able to run.

There are all sorts of products available to help your dog enjoy accompanying you on your bike trips, including pet bike baskets, trailers, and sidecars; look on the Internet or ask the folks at your local independent pet supply store or bike shop. Accessories available include seat belts, dog helmets, and even goggles.

Assess the safety of any of these products before using them with your beloved companion – and be realistic about your dog’s temperament, too. I’ve seen dogs who are electric with delight in joining their owners for a ride in a pet trailer, and I’ve seen others who have the same look of terror on their faces that I must have when riding on a roller coaster!

That said, most dogs can learn to enjoy your rides with training. Gradual exposure to your bike and trailer, creating a positive association with being in the trailer using lots of treats and praise, and slowly exposing your dog to movement in the trailer increase your chances of a successful outcome.

Sometimes, the safety precautions that we take to protect both humans and our companion animals may seem so cumbersome that they take all the fun out of some of our activities. But when it comes to the health and welfare of your dog when accompanying you on bike rides, taking the appropriate safety measures can potentially save your dog’s life, as well as your own. Training, using proper equipment, and adhering to sensible exercise practices actually increase your enjoyment of the sport. “Fun” is knowing that you are keeping your dog as safe as possible while sharing your rides together. Enjoy! 

Canine Acupressure Techniques to Promote Healing

[Updated October 5, 2017]

ACUPRESSURE FOR DOG INJURIES: OVERVIEW

1. Have a holistic veterinarian examine your dog after any injury debilitates your dog. More damage than meets the eye could have occurred, requiring surgery or other immediate treatment.

2. Watch your dog during your acupressure session. If he grows uncomfortable, stop holding that point and move on to the next point, or offer another session another day.

3. Concentrate on your “healing intention” for your dog while you work. Empty your mind of other distractions.


Maintaining a well-rounded training regime and providing incremental warm-up exercise before strenuous exercise are an important part of preventing injuries. But with any sport, the dog’s enthusiasm and natural drive can lead to incidental and repetitive injuries, despite our best prevention efforts. That’s why it’s best to formulate an approach to dealing with our dog’s injuries, before they happen.

Dog Agility Injuries

With an injury that is severe and/or debilitating, a holistic veterinarian should be consulted immediately to diagnose the extent of the damage and prescribe treatment. Soft tissue injuries in particular can be deceiving, so have a veterinarian check your dog to be sure that no other issues or further tissue damage occurs. After the holistic vet has seen your dog and made the necessary recommendations or if the injury is a simple bruise or superficial abrasion, you can help expedite the healing process. Only the animal’s body can heal itself – but you can play a role in helping to create the physical “environment” in which healing can take place in a balanced, healthy manner.

Healing with Acupressure

Acupressure, like acupuncture, is based on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) concepts that have helped heal animals and humans alike for more than 3,000 years. The basic principle underlying the healing process is that vital substances of the body nourish the body while moving harmoniously throughout the body. Two of the vital substances are chi (or qi), which is life-promoting energy, and blood, a nutrient-rich body fluid. In TCM, blood includes both the blood as identified in conventional medicine and other body fluids, such as synovial fluids in the joints or the nutrient-rich fluid within the spinal column.

Any injury can cause disruption in the flow of chi and blood. Using acupressure points, also called “acupoints,” you can help re-establish the flow of chi and blood through an injured area thus creating the healing environment. The movement of chi and blood through the damaged tissue helps distribute the nutrients the body needs to heal quickly and well.

“Surrounding the Dragon”

“Surrounding the Dragon” is an acupoint selection technique that is specifically for enhancing the flow of chi and blood to and through a particular location on the body. This technique is used often as an effective tool for tendon and ligament joint injuries as well as for chronic issues such as arthritis and tendonitis.

The “Dragon” is the painful, raging injury, arthritic joint, or site of scar tissue formation, which blocks the flow of chi and blood. Applying gentle pressure to specific acupoints surrounding the “offended” area stimulates the flow of the healing chi and blood while removing toxins and nourishing the tissues.

When Surrounding the Dragon, we stimulate acupoints located near – but not too close to – the insulted area because you do not want to “spank the crying baby.” This phrase is used in Chinese medicine to mean that you do not want to cause any further hurt when the area is already painful.

Acupoints and Technique

The photos below provide acupressure point combinations that address injuries or issues related to the shoulder and hip. All of the acupoints identified are considered “local” points and directly address bringing chi and blood to the identified joint.

Canine Accupressure Points

Surrounding the Dragon can bring more chi and blood to the afflicted area whether it is an injury, scarring, or a chronic problem. These acupoint combinations can support the healing process, help reduce pain, and bring more flexibility to the limb. It’s an additional healing tool you can use when your dog suffers from a knock, repetitive injury, or twist, and you have followed your veterinarian’s recommendations.

Points that surround the injured area can be stimulated simultaneously or in succession, one acupoint at a time. By stimulating a point, we simply mean applying gentle pressure to the point with the soft, fleshy portion of the tip of your finger and thumb.

Gently place your fingers on the acupoints shown in the photos below, while holding your intentions to relieve the dog’s discomfort in the forefront of your mind. You do not have to apply much pressure since this is energetic work, not manipulation of tissue. Continue your contact with the point while counting slowly to 30, or until the dog moves away or demonstrates some form of release. Energetic releases can include yawning, licking his lips, stretching, passing gas, demonstrating the need to move, or even falling asleep.

Remember to repeat this procedure on both sides of the dog. If the dog gives any indication of pain, stop immediately and work the points on the other side of the dog. If the dog continues to be uncomfortable, try again at a later date when the dog is not as sensitive.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of animal acupressure texts, including The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide To Canine Acupressure; and Acu-Cat: A Guide to Feline Acupressure.

Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language

Otto has gotten short shrift lately, poor guy. My husband and I had the brilliant idea of undertaking a minor home remodeling project over the holidays – just the bathroom! As is often the case with all-consuming home improvement projects, the dog was left to his own devices more than he should have been for a number of weeks.

Months ago, that would have been a recipe for disaster; Otto would have excavated half the yard and chewed up everything he could have gotten his mouth on. But he must be growing up; even after a few weeks of minor neglect, the only thing he chewed up was one of my husband’s high-top leather work boots. Amazing, considering the number of tools and wood and paintbrushes left lying around.

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He amused himself largely with a new obsession: running along our back fence with our neighbor’s two-year-old German Shepherd Dog, Schotzie. Our lot is about 80 feet wide, and both dogs share a mostly unimpeded path along that entire boundary, with just an ivy-covered five-foot-high chain-link fence between them. They are both young, active, and bored (the neighbors have a new baby). So, up and down they go, thundering through the mud, whining with frustration and excitement. It could be worse; they could be fence-fighting and barking (and maybe, if we remodeled the entire house, it would advance to this). But they seem to enjoy each other. And at least they are both getting exercise!

I’ve tried to talk Schotzie’s owners into letting her come over to play with Otto – and I was successful exactly twice – but they are worried about her “hurting” him. Apparently, on the few occasions when they have taken her someplace where there were other dogs, she “attacked” another dog. She played wonderfully with Otto. But I believe their stories; from what I can observe as a work-at-home neighbor, they hardly ever take her anywhere and she is getting less and less socialized.

It’s frustrating, because I’ve seen this phenomenon several times; in fact, it seems like every time I’ve seen a busy family get a young, big, active dog who hardly ever gets out, the dog’s behavior with other dogs gets worse and worse until they feel they can’t safely take the dog anywhere.

I’ve tried to tactfully describe this syndrome and its possible solutions to Schotzie’s people. They are a young educated couple, and very nice. The mom listens, but the dad appears to have his own strong ideas about dogs and dog training, and I can tell he has to put some effort into politely not-hearing what I have offered.

I get it. Few of us enjoy being subjected to unsolicited advice about our dogs – it’s like having some stranger tell you how you should deal with your toddler when he’s acting out in the supermarket. How likely is it that you could say something like, “Oh, okay! Thanks! I never thought of that!” On the other hand, I can clearly see the impending train wreck that often – usually – results from the social isolation of a large, high-drive dog. So, I’m trying to strike just the right note – respectful, friendly – while casually giving them information to consider.

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Could be the start of a beautiful friendship
A few months ago, Otto and I were just coming in from a bike ride when we saw the neighbors walking Schotzie. The mom had the baby in a front pack; the dad had his hands full with Schotzie, who had recognized her friend (Otto) and was pulling hard to get to him, despite her prong collar. I raced to put Otto and my bike through my front gate, and called to them. “Oh! Hi! Hi Schotzie! Can she come and play? Please?” As the dad looked sort of unconvinced (and Schotzie was going crazy), I pressed on, exaggerating, “Gosh, Otto has been so full of beans, and I’ve tried getting him tired with a bike ride, but he’s just such a handful!” He relented, though he worried out loud, as he was leading Schotzie in the gate as I held Otto back, “I just hope she’s okay. She can be pretty rough!”

“I’m not worried about Otto at all,” I reassured him. And I wasn’t. Otto has really terrific canine language and play skills; I’ve never seen him lose his cool with other dogs. If he gets overwhelmed or bullied, he’ll defend himself with a momentary growl and a snap, but immediately shakes it off and looks for someone else to play with. I’m not taking credit for this; he came equipped with a strong play drive! (Although I do work actively to preserve and protect this trait, by giving him lots of social time with other nice dogs.)

The second the dogs were turned loose, they took off across the yard like meteors. Otto loves being chased, and he had the home field advantage, knowing his yard intimately. Schotzie’s owners and I laughed and thoroughly enjoyed watching the two big dogs joyfully race and leap and wrestle. “Oh, we’ve got to do this again!” I enthused. “This is so great! Look at how happy they are! And they will both really sleep tonight! Thanks so much!”

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A few days later, I heard the mom calling to Schotzie, as our two dogs once again ran the fenceline. “Hi there!” I called over the fence. “Hey! Can Schotzie come over and play again?” “Sure!” she called back. “That would be great! I’ll bring her over.” The two dogs had even more fun playing this time. I opened my side gates, so they could race from the front yard to the back, and run loops around the house, which they did with delight. I took dozens of pictures of them as they played. They spent about an hour running and wrestling and playing with Otto’s toys.

I was just putting Schotzie’s leash on to take her home when the mom walked up to the front gate to get her. “They had so much fun!” I told her. “Any time you want to tire her out, give me a call; they are really great together! And, oh! Here is an article about why dog play is so good for them.” And I gave her a copy of an issue of WDJ that contains Pat Miller’s brilliant article on the importance of purposeful socialization (“Plays Well With Others,” March 2000).

Was that too pushy? I didn’t think so, but they haven’t taken me up on any further “play date” invitations. Once, while talking to the mom about neighborhood stuff, I asked again if Schotzie could come over and play, and she said, “I’ll have to ask my husband first. We took Schotzie to a picnic recently, and she bit this other dog really badly, and now he’s really concerned about taking her places.”

Argh! I don’t know why it’s so hard to understand that dogs will only get worse without opportunities to socialize, whether they are truly aggressive or, more likely, fear-aggressive. Looking through all the pictures of our two dogs playing, Schotzie’s body language looks anything but aggressive. I suspect she’s had so little experience socializing that she gets scared and overwhelmed and “attacks” out of fear. She didn’t “attack” Otto, perhaps, because she was familiar with him (albeit through the fence) and because he puts out such clearly playful signals; he seems to lack any tendency to bully other dogs.

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Well, at least they have the fenceline. Which, as I said, does actually help tire Otto out, especially when he’s not getting enough walks and hikes.

A trip to town
At the height of the holiday season, we took a few days off from our remodeling project and spent some time with relatives back in the Bay Area. Brian really wanted to leave Otto in Oroville, and have a pet sitter watch over him. But I couldn’t wait for the opportunity to bring Otto to some of my favorite Bay Area doggie hot spots, like the trails in the East Bay Regional Parks, and the dog parks in Alameda and at Point Isabel in Albany. And I really wanted some of my Bay Area friends to get to meet him!

We had a blast! Otto and I took one or two long walks every day, and he got to enjoy some of the best the Bay Area offers a dog, including visits to pet supply stores that offer cookies to canine visitors.

The only part of his “Christmas vacation” that he didn’t really enjoy was the very first part – where I took our often-outdoors dog to a do-it-yourself dog wash, to get him ready for a week of apartment living. He forgave me when I let him pick out a new stuffed squeaky toy to carry out of the store. I also bought him some rawhide chews; I found a place that sells the nicest rawhide chews I’ve ever seen: a roll made from a single “sheet” of extremely thick hide, made by Wholesome Hide. (I’ll be reviewing rawhide chews in the next issue; look for more on what makes a chew “the best rawhide I’ve ever seen” in April.) I didn’t want him chewing up my friends’ and relatives’ stuff while a guest in their homes.

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As it turned out, he behaved himself like a prince. He was probably too tired to get into too much trouble! He did rearrange many of the shoes in the house where we were staying, when we left him for the longest time. It was Christmas day, and we had dinner at the home of my pet-allergic brother-in-law and his pet-allergic wife. When we came home, we found 12 or 13 shoes, belonging to every member of the household, piled neatly by the front door along with a rawhide.

It was so neat, in fact, that I actually didn’t notice it at first; lots of people leave shoes by their front doors. But when I found one of my sneakers on the pillow of the bed that I had been sleeping in, I investigated further. That’s when I found the other sneaker by the front door, along with lots of other shoes, in pairs and singles. Fortunately, he didn’t chew a single one of them, just carried them about. Given the lack of damage, it was sort of fun, returning everyone’s shoes to their proper places.

The only thing about having Otto “in town” that disappointed me was discovering that we really need to practice walking on-leash more. In Oroville, I only have his leash on for the few blocks that it takes to get to the trailhead where I can walk him off-leash. We work on his leash-walking manners on the way to the trail. On the way home, tired, he’s always perfect on the leash, and though I reward him for this, it’s hardly necessary!

During our stay in the Bay Area, with the exception of his time in a dog park or on our two East Bay Regional Park hikes, he had to be on leash. Whether it was due to anxiety over a new setting, a lack of daily free time in a backyard, or just the sheer number of miles we walked on-leash, he pulled a lot more than he does at home. I carried treats with me, and tried to pay attention and reinforce him when he was walking quietly by my side. But I was walking with friends I hadn’t seen for a while, and talking, and not focusing exclusively on Otto. It’s time to go back to class, I guess.

Socializing with city dogs
At least once a week, I take Otto to a dog-park-like setting in the nearby town of Chico, California. It’s actually a genetic resource and conservation center for the Mendocino National Forest; it’s where they grow trees that produce the seeds used to replant forests. The best part is that it’s 200 fenced acres where people are allowed to walk their dogs off-leash. There is even a creek that runs through the middle of it, and dogs are welcome to splash through and swim in it. It’s awesome.

Many area dog owners take their dogs there for exercise and socialization, but it lacks the insular, intense feel that some crowded, urban dog parks can have. Mostly, dog owners walk a trail on the perimeter of the property. When you encounter dogs and people going the other way, or you pass somebody, it’s customary to allow the dogs to greet and play for a few minutes, and then walk on. Every so often, you meet another dog with the exact same play style and interest in playing that your dog does, and you might linger with them a good bit longer, or even walk the perimeter with them. It’s very relaxed and spacious – and I’ve noticed that the environment really promotes relaxed and happy dogs. I’ve never seen a dog fight there, or heard a dog owner screaming at another dog owner.

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I wish I could say the same for urban dog parks. I’ve been there and seen that before; Otto hadn’t, and he was a bit overwhelmed. On his first day at a two-acre park, a huge black dog (a Puli-mix, maybe?) repeatedly rushed him in a fairly intense manner, barking loudly, and he wouldn’t stop even when Otto dodged and bowed playfully. He only stopped when Otto ran 30 yards away or so.

Otto looked a bit mystified, but shook it off to find other playmates. In five trips to that park, though, he only found one dog that he really got into playing with, a young Husky female who was just as into chasing and bouncing games as he was. Many of the dogs were obsessed with fetching and couldn’t be bothered, or were older and grumpy. And a few were bullies! Like the big black dog, they seemed intent on rushing over to new dogs and inflicting their stamp of dominance on them. Otto would kind of hold his ground, neither rolling over submissively nor giving back any resistance, but as soon as he was “released,” or another dog approached to distract the bully, he’d hightail it for someplace else.

He had the same reaction at another, larger (but if anything, even more densely populated) dog park, when he heard a dog owner screaming at another dog owner after a bit of a scuffle involving half a dozen dogs. He had rushed toward the scuffle, getting there just as it broke up, and then looked plain astonished when the people started yelling at each other. Whoa! He gave them the same look he had given the big black dog and ran back toward me. I probably had the same expression on my face! Yikes! Let’s get out of here!

Seriously, I kept these urban dog park trips short; I could see they were a bit overstimulating after 20 minutes or so. Otto’s eyes would get a glazed look, and his tongue would look pasty and dry, even after drinking. He’d still be running around, but not in a joyous, bouncy way; he looked kind of hunted and distracted, even if no dog was chasing him. That was my signal to call him back and leave the park.

The most fun Otto had “on vacation” was during the two off-leash hikes we took with my friend Sandi Thompson (a Berkeley-based trainer who often models for our training articles) and her dog, Turtle (that’s them on pages 3-5). Turtle looks like a Mini-Me of Otto, a smaller, blonder, nimbler terrier-mix with an oversized ego and sense of humor. Otto found her fascinating, if a bit challenging. I’ll leave you with photos of their playtime together. His dismayed expression in the last one makes me laugh out loud every time I see it!

Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ. She and her husband adopted Otto from a shelter on June 13, 2008.

Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency in Dogs

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EPI IN DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. When you see or hear about an apparently starved (or extremely thin) dog, please let the owner know about EPI. Few people know that it can affect any breed.

2. If your dog’s digestion is poor, with frequent diarrhea, consider having him tested for EPI. Visible symptoms of the disease may not appear until 80 to 95 percent of the pancreas has atrophied. Early diagnosis and treatment improve his prospects.


Kanis Fitzhugh, a member of the Almost Home organization, knew she had to rescue Pandy, an extremely thin and seemingly vicious four-year-old Dachshund. Pandy had been relinquished to a shelter in Orange County (California), who turned her over to Southern California Dachshund Rescue. Deemed people- and animal-aggressive, Pandy appeared to have been starved, and weighed just 13 pounds. Fitzhugh thought the dog deserved a break, and brought Pandy home in May 2007.

During the first couple of weeks in her new home, Pandy managed to pull a chicken down from the counter and proceeded to eat the entire bird, including bones, plastic tray, and grocery bag, in less than the 10 minutes that Fitzhugh was out of the room. Pandy was rushed to the vet and emergency surgery was performed, as the bones had ruptured her stomach lining in three places. Luckily, she survived.

Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency

Pandy’s voracious appetite, large voluminous stools, and aggressive disposition were all caused by a medical condition called exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI). With Fitzhugh’s loving care, including enzyme supplements and a change of diet, Pandy stabilized. Within a year, Pandy had transformed into a beautiful, funny, 26-pound Dachshund who gets along great with all the human and animal members in the Fitzhugh household.

What is Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency?

Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency, or EPI, also referred to as Pancreatic Hypoplasia or Pancreatic Acinar Atrophy (PAA), is a disease of maldigestion and malabsorption, which when left untreated eventually leads to starvation. One of the major difficulties with this disease is in the prompt and accurate diagnosis. Astonishingly, visible symptoms may not appear until 80 to 95 percent of the pancreas has atrophied.

There are two primary functions of the pancreas:

(1) Endocrine cells produce and secrete hormones, insulin, and glucagons.

(2) Exocrine cells produce and secrete digestive enzymes.

EPI is the inability of the pancreas to secrete digestive enzymes: amylase to digest starches, lipases to digest fats, and proteases to digest protein. Without a steady supply of these enzymes to help break down and absorb nutrients, the body starves. When EPI is undiagnosed and left untreated, the entire body is deprived of the nutrients needed for growth, renewal, and maintenance. In time, the body becomes so compromised that the dog either starves to death or dies of inevitable organ failure.

Incomplete digestion causes the continual presence of copious amounts of fermenting food in the small intestine. This can lead to a secondary condition that is common in many EPI dogs, called SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth). If an EPI dog has a lot of belly grumbling/noises, gas, diarrhea, and sometimes vomiting, she most likely has SIBO.

The condition occurs when the “bad” bacteria that is feeding on the fermenting food overpopulates the tissue lining the small intestine, further impairing the proper absorption of vital nutrients and depleting the body’s store of vitamin B12. Treatment of SIBO includes a course of antibiotics, to eliminate the bad bacteria. Treatment may also include supplemental cobalamin (B12) injections that help reestablish friendly bacteria colonies, which in turn helps inhibit the malabsorption.

Severity of the disease may vary, making it even more difficult to diagnose. EPI can be subclinical (no recognizable symptoms) for many months, sometimes even years, before it worsens and becomes noticeable. The symptoms can be exacerbated by physical or emotional stress, change of food or routine, and/or environmental factors. The most common symptoms include:

– Gradual wasting away despite a voracious appetite.

– Eliminating more frequently with voluminous yellowish or grayish soft “cow patty” stools.

– Coprophagia (dog eats his own stools) and/or pica (dog eats other inappropriate substances).

– Increased rumbling sounds from the abdomen, and passing increased amounts of gas.

– Intermittent watery diarrhea or vomiting.

Due to the lack of absorbed nutrients, the body starves: muscle mass wastes away, and bones may also be affected. An EPI dog’s teeth may be slightly smaller, and older EPI dogs appear to have a higher incidence of hip dysplasia. Every part of the body is at risk, even the nervous system (including the brain), which in turn wreaks havoc with the dog’s temperament. Some EPI dogs exhibit increased anxiety, becoming fearful of other dogs, people, and strange objects.

With hunger as an overwhelming force, many dogs act almost feral. Desperately seeking vital nutrition, many ingest inappropriate items, but nothing gets absorbed. As the disease progresses, the deterioration becomes quite rapid. Some dogs lose interest in any activities, preferring to just lie down or hide somewhere. Many owners of EPI dogs become increasingly frustrated, as they feed more than normal amounts and yet their dogs continue to waste away before their eyes.

Since chronic loose stools are usually the first visible symptom in an EPI dog, most vets will prescribe an antibiotic to destroy what they suspect to be harmful intestinal bacteria. Owners are happy because the problem appears to go away, at least for a while. No one has any reason to investigate further, until the loose stools return or the dog starts losing weight, and then the merry-go-round cycle begins. Vet visits become numerous and costly, and one possible diagnosis after another is suggested. Expenses may include testing (and retesting) for giardia, coccidiosis, and other parasitic diseases; x-rays; ultrasound; MRI; antibiotics; and even surgery.

EPI Testing for Dogs

Until recently, EPI was most prevalent in German Shepherd Dogs. For this reason, a vet may fail to consider EPI as a possible diagnosis in other breeds and not pursue EPI testing: a trypsin-like immunoreactivity (TLI) blood test. TLI measures the dog’s ability to produce digestive enzymes. The test is done following a fast of 12 to 15 hours, and costs about $100.

Although other laboratories can run the TLI test, most blood samples are analyzed at Texas A&M University. The lab recently revised its reference ranges: values below 2.5 are now considered diagnostic for EPI. Results between 3.5 and 5.7 may reflect subclinical pancreatic disease that may ultimately lead to EPI. When values are between 2.5 and 3.5 µg/L, Texas A&M recommends repeating the TLI test after one month, paying particular attention to the fast before the blood sample is collected.

Even when a dog tests positive for EPI, it is important to retest TLI after the dog stabilizes following treatment. For example, chronic inflammation can put such a strain on the pancreas that the production of digestive enzymes ceases or is greatly reduced. Consequently, when the TLI blood test is analyzed, it accurately depicts lack of enzyme production, even though the dog may not actually have EPI. In this case, it is important for the dog to be treated with pancreatic enzymes until his condition is stable. Enzyme treatment breaks down the food, allowing the stressed albeit non-EPI pancreas to recuperate and, in time, start producing the enzymes needed to digest foods.

Dorsie Kovacs, DVM, of Monson Small Animal Clinic in Monson, Massachusetts, has seen some young dogs with false-positive EPI readings. Even when they display the lighter-colored “cow patty” stools, something other than EPI may be the cause. Sometimes a food allergy or an overabundance of bad bacteria has irritated or inflamed the pancreas, temporarily inhibiting enzyme production. In these situations, says Dr. Kovacs, it’s important to put the dog on a pancreatic enzyme supplement for two months, allowing the stressed pancreas to heal. The dog should then be retested to either confirm or rule out EPI.

In addition, Dr. Kovacs says, “It is also important to introduce good gut flora (bacteria) by adding yogurt, green tripe, or supplements such as Digest-All Plus (a blend of plant enzymes and probiotics). Good gut flora should continue to be maintained with supplements even after the inflamed or irritated pancreas has healed.” Dr. Kovacs has also noticed that some dogs with food allergies (especially dogs who are fed kibble) show rapid improvement when their diets are switched to raw or canned food. Raw meats contain natural enzymes, and fresh vegetables support the growth of good bacteria in the dog’s gut.

Managing a Dog’s EPI

Most dogs with EPI can be successfully treated and regulated, although customizing the dog’s diet and supplements may involve much trial and error.

Enzyme supplementation is the first step in managing EPI. The dog will need pancreatic enzymes incubated on every piece of food ingested for the remainder of his or her life. The best results are usually obtained with freeze-dried, powdered porcine enzymes rather than plant enzymes or enzyme pills. Plant enzymes and enzymes in a pill form do work for some, though with enzyme supplements, as with diet, much is dependent on the individual EPI dog. Some of the most widely used prescription enzyme supplements are Viokase, Epizyme, Panakare Plus, Pancrease-V, and Pancrezyme. Bio Case V is a non-prescription generic equivalent.

Enzyme potency is measured in USP units. Prescription enzyme powders range from 56,800 to 71,400 units of lipase; 280,000 to 434,000 units of protease; and 280,000 to 495,000 units of amylase per teaspoon.

Pancreatic enzymes are also available as generic pancreatin. Strengths of 6×10, 8×10, etc., indicate that the dosage is concentrated. Thus, a level teaspoon of pancreatin 6×10 contains 33,600 units of lipase and 420,000 units of protease and amylase, comparable to prescription enzyme products.

Some EPI dogs have allergies and cannot tolerate the ingredients in the most common enzyme supplements. Those owners learn to develop alternative methods such as using plant enzymes, or a different source of pancreatic enzymes such as beef-based (rather than porcine-based). Raw beef, pork, or lamb pancreas can also be used. One to three ounces of raw chopped pancreas can replace one teaspoon of pancreatic extract.

The starting dosage of prescription enzymes is usually one level teaspoon of powdered enzymes per cup of food. As time goes on and a dog stabilizes, many owners find that they can reduce the amount of enzymes administered with each meal, sometimes to just ½ teaspoon, although some EPI dogs require an increased dosage of enzymes in their senior years.

Enzymes need to be incubated, meaning that you add them to moistened food prior to feeding, letting them sit on the food at room temperature for at least 20 minutes. Some owners find that incubation up to an hour or more works even better. Too often, EPI owners are instructed that enzyme incubation is not necessary; however, some dogs will develop blisters or sores in their mouths from the enzymes when they are not first incubated on the food.

How do you judge what works best for your dog? When dealing with EPI, everything is gauged by the dog’s stool quality. EPI dog owners are always on “poop-patrol.” The goal is to obtain normal looking, chocolate brown, well-formed stools. When your dog produces something other than normal poop, it indicates she is not properly digesting her food. Sometimes longer enzyme incubation helps. Other times using more or less enzymes (since too little or too much enzymes can both cause diarrhea), changing the diet, treating a flare-up of SIBO, or starting a regimen of B12 shots solves the problem. Make only one change at a time. It is advisable to keep a daily journal as it may help you to identify the cause of a flare up or setback.

Prescription enzyme supplements can be very expensive. A $5,000 per year price tag for enzymes is not uncommon for a large dog – but don’t panic! There are several ways to reduce this cost. My 40-pound Spanish Water Dog has the dubious honor of being the first of her breed ever to be positively diagnosed with EPI. When the TLI results came in, I felt like my world came crashing down. Izzy is my once-in-a-lifetime companion, and was very sick. Using information my vet gave me, I estimated that the enzymes she needed were going to cost me $1,200 a year. She was just over a year old at the time, with an expected life span of 13 to 15 years. Eeek!

Today those enzymes cost me a mere $200 a year. How? I joined an EPI support group and learned what others do to better manage the ongoing care of their EPI dogs. I buy enzymes from an EPI enzyme co-op that purchases enzymes in bulk and passes the savings on to owners who have a veterinarian-confirmed EPI dog. The savings from these bulk purchases can be quite substantial. (For both groups, see “Resources for Products Mentioned in this Article,” page 22.) Today, Izzy is a plump, active, happy dog who gives me more joy than any dog I’ve had in my 55 years. I would have paid whatever it cost to help her, but not everyone has this option.

Another solution that can dramatically save money is to obtain raw beef, pork, or lamb pancreas. Ask your butcher if he can get fresh pancreas, or check with meat inspectors in your state to find out if and where you can obtain fresh pancreas. A letter from your vet explaining why you need fresh pancreas may allow you to purchase it from a slaughterhouse. Fresh beef pancreas can also be ordered from suppliers such as Hare Today and Greentripe.com.

The suggested dosage of raw pancreas is 3 to 4 ounces per 44 pounds of the dog’s weight daily. The pancreas can be blended or finely chopped, then frozen into either cubes in an ice tray or “calculated by the dog’s weight” single meal amounts in Ziploc bags. Raw pancreas can be frozen for several months without losing potency. When ready to use, thaw and serve the raw pancreas with the dog’s food.

A very important factor about enzymes – whether using raw pancreas, powdered pancreatic enzymes, or pills – is that all digestive enzymes work best at body temperature. Cold inhibits the enzymatic action while heat destroys it. Never cook, mix with very hot water, or microwave raw pancreas or supplemental enzymes.

Antibiotics are the next line of defense, in order to combat SIBO (bad bacteria growth that overtakes the growth of good bacteria), the secondary condition that frequently accompanies EPI. Tylosin (Tylan) or metronidazole (Flagyl) are the most commonly prescribed antibiotics, and they are usually given for 30 days. Some dogs have trouble with metronidazole due to possible side effects; in that case, Tylan is given. Be warned: Tylan is bitter-tasting, and many dogs refuse to eat their meals when it’s added. There are tricks to deal with this. Some put the Tylan powder in gelatin capsules; I camouflage it for my dog by inserting the required dose in a small chunk of cream cheese. Not all EPI dogs can tolerate dairy, so the camouflage method should depend on the individual dog’s tolerance.

B12 (cobalamin) injections are needed if the dog has very low serum cobalamin. A blood test is required to determine this, costs about $31, and is best done simultaneously with the TLI test. Many EPI dogs cannot replenish B12 levels on their own, so B12 injections are used. B12-complex formulas are not recommended since they contain much lower concentrations of cobalamin and appear to cause pain at the injection sites. Generic formulations of cobalamin (B12) are acceptable.

The recommended cobalamin dosage is calculated according to the dog’s weight and may be found on Texas A&M University website (see page 22). Your vet can show you how to give your dog subcutaneous (beneath the skin) B12 injections. What seems to work best are weekly injections for the first six weeks, then biweekly (every other week) injections for the next six weeks, and finally monthly B12 injections.

Feeding Dogs with EPI

A common saying among those whose dogs have EPI is, “If you’ve met one EPI dog, then you have met just one EPI dog.” Even with pancreatic enzyme supplements, much of the health and well-being of each EPI dog depends on his diet. Sometimes all that’s needed are supplemental enzymes and the standard recommended dietary modifications: no more that 4 percent fiber and no more than 12 percent fat (on a dry matter basis).

Sometimes it’s much more complicated! Some dogs can tolerate much more fat. My dog, Izzy, for example, does extremely well on grain-free kibble with 22 percent fat content, well above the 12 percent range. Other dogs cannot tolerate even as little as 12 percent fat. The same applies to the fiber content. Some EPI dogs have unrelated food allergies, further limiting their diet.

Many dogs with EPI thrive on raw diets and some owners find that a raw diet is the only one that works for their dogs. Conversely, other EPI dogs cannot tolerate raw diets. Some owners successfully feed grain-free kibble, some make home-cooked meals for their dog, while others feed a combination of commercial and homemade. When adding to or adjusting a diet, feed the dog tiny chunks of raw carrot with the diet. These carrot pieces will present themselves in the stools (for better or worse) of that meal’s elimination. This helps you understand which foods/vitamins, etc., work well together and which don’t.

Recommendations keep evolving and changing with new research, as well as the feedback from networks of owners of EPI dogs. A recent change in feeding recommendations concerns dietary fat. Multiple studies from the past decade indicated that a fat-restricted diet is of no benefit whatsoever to the EPI dog. A 2003 paper by Edward J. Hall, of the University of Bristol in England, states that there is experimental evidence to show that the percentage fat absorption increases with the percentage of fat that is fed. This may explain why some EPI dogs can tolerate higher concentrations of fat. For those dogs who cannot tolerate more than 12 percent fat, this may mean that the fat content needs to be increased very gradually, or perhaps that certain types of fat may be tolerated better than others. Much more research is needed to answer these questions.

Veterinarians usually recommend an initial diet of a prescription or veterinary food, such as Hill’s Prescription Diet w/d, i/d, or z/d Ultra Allergen-Free; Royal Canin’s Veterinary Diet Canine Hypoallergenic Diet or Digestive Low Fat Diet.

Prescription diets that are made with hydrolized ingredients (carbohydrates and proteins that have been chemically broken down into minute particles for better absorption in the small intestine, leading to more complete digestion, better/faster weight gain, and firmer stools) appear to work for many EPI dogs.

However, these diets are usually starch-based (often almost 60 percent carbohydrates on a dry matter basis); the digestive system of a dog is designed more for fats and protein than for starches, which may be why many EPI dog owners achieve better results by reserving prescription diets for short-term use and feeding other diets over the long haul.

The best results for managing EPI requires combining veterinarian advice with the experience of actual EPI dog owners. Too many times, managing EPI can be a real roller coaster ride! For example, initial research studies showed that supplemental enzyme powders needed to incubate on the food. Additional research studies then suggested that food incubation with enzymes was no longer necessary. Consequently, some EPI dogs developed mouth sores, so owners are again being advised to let the enzymes incubate to prevent this side effect. Until the causes and effects of this disease are better understood, it will continue to be managed via trial and error.

Canine Pancreatic Insufficiency Feeding Guidelines

Enzymes should be mixed with about one to two ounces of room-temperature water per teaspoon of enzymes, then added to the food and allowed to incubate for 20 minutes or more. A couple of tablespoons of room temperature kefir or yogurt (or some other “sauce”) may be used instead of water to mix the enzymes. Once an EPI dog is stable, some owners find that they can “cheat” and give their dog a smidgeon of a treat without any enzymes on it. Others find the least little crumb ingested without enzymes will cause a flare-up.

If possible, feed two to four meals a day, taking into consideration whether the dog’s condition has stabilized and whether the family’s schedule can accommodate multiple feedings. Feeding smaller, more frequent meals puts less stress on the EPI dog’s digestive system.

At first calculation, many owners of EPI dogs wonder if they can sustain the added expense of all these “special foods” in addition to the enzymes. It may take many attempts to find just the right diet for a dog with EPI that is also affordable by the owner, but it can be done. Following are some suggestions and techniques that EPI dog owners have successfully used.

– Kibble or canned: Many EPI owners who feed commercial kibble or canned dog food have found more success when feeding a grain-free product. Much depends on the individual dog.

When feeding kibble, many owners let the food and enzymes incubate until the food has an oatmeal-like consistency. Some even grind the kibble to allow for more surface contact with the enzymes. Some also add a teaspoon of pumpkin or sweet potato, which may help firm stools and reduce coprophagia; plus, both ingredients are packed with vitamins C and D. Sweet potato is also an excellent source of vitamin B6.

– Combination kibble and homemade: Many owners feed a combination of commercial food and raw or home-cooked. EPI owners generally mix foods at a ratio of 20 to 80 percent. As always with an EPI dog, enzyme supplements should be mixed in with the wet portion of the food at room temperature and allowed to incubate. Depending on each individual dog’s tolerance, any variety of meats and fish may be used. Sources of proteins can include beef, chicken, turkey, pork, venison, rabbit, lamb, canned or cooked salmon, and jack mackerel, as well as eggs, yogurt, and cottage cheese. Organ meats, such as liver, kidney, and heart should also be included in the diet. Green tripe is another good option. Variety is key! Again, incubate the food with the enzymes and feed two to four times daily, depending on your individual dog’s needs and your own schedule.

– Raw and home-cooked: Over the past few years, many owners have been able to stabilize their EPI dogs by feeding a raw diet. Raw food has the innate advantage of maintaining natural food enzyme activity that aids digestion. Many vets disapprove of feeding a raw food diet, especially to compromised dogs (possibly exposing them to further complications), while other vets suggest that raw is best for an EPI dog. There have been many anecdotal cases of dramatic improvement when the owners feed their EPI dog a raw diet, especially when all else fails.

Most EPI dogs cannot handle the 20 to 25 percent raw bone content in the diet that is commonly fed to normal dogs. With EPI dogs, it’s smart to start with only 10 to 12 percent of bone. Some dogs still have difficulty digesting this amount of the bone and the ratio will need to be reduced even further, to 3 to 5 percent bone. Note we are talking about the amount of actual bone, not the amount of raw meaty bones, which are usually at least half meat.

Vegetables may be a large or small portion of the diet, or not included at all, depending on the individual dog’s tolerance. If included, they should always be mashed. Organ meats are usually recommended at 10 to 15 percent of the EPI diet, but again, not all dogs can tolerate this.

Supplements for an EPI Diet

Whether you feed dry, canned, home-cooked, raw, or any combination, there are many other ingredients that may be added to provide additional benefits for EPI dogs.

Most EPI dog owners add coconut oil and/or wild salmon oil to their dogs’ diet. Many EPI dogs cannot digest other fats and develop dry, itchy skin or dry, brittle coats. Coconut oil contains medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). Most vegetable oils have longer chain triglycerides, called LCTs. MCTs are utilized faster and burned more quickly for energy, raising the body’s metabolism, while LCTs are utilized more slowly. Also, coconut oil is one of the richest sources of lauric acid. Its benefits have recently been touted to aid in destroying various bacteria and viruses such as listeria, giardia, herpes simplex virus-1, and maybe even yeast infections such as candida.

Wild Alaskan salmon oil is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, which help reduce inflammation.

Probiotics are another important addition to the EPI diet, especially since most EPI dogs are or have been treated with antibiotics because of SIBO. Antibiotics wipe out not only bad bacteria, but also good bacteria. Probiotics help maintain good gut flora. One popular brand of probiotics that has been successfully used by EPI owners is Primal Defense, but there are many quality probiotics available.

Zinc deficiency is another consideration with EPI dogs. It is difficult to accurately measure zinc absorption. Human EPI patients often develop a zinc deficiency, and though no studies have confirmed this to be true of dogs with EPI, many vets suggest a zinc supplement for EPI dogs.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) levels may also be low in an EPI dog due to malabsorption. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that is an antioxidant and helps in the formation of cell membranes, cell respiration, and with the metabolism of fats. Vitamin E deficiency may cause cell damage in the skeletal muscle, heart, testes, liver, and nerves; supplementation with vitamin E can help prevent these problems.

Other natural nutrient sources that are often included in an EPI diet are kelp, green tripe, slippery elm, and alfalfa.

Controlling EPI

Texas A&M and Clemson University are currently embarking on Phase II of an EPI research project to try to identify the genetic markers for the disease. “This disease is characterized by a complex pattern of inheritance,” says Dr. Keith E. Murphy, Professor and Chair of Genetics and Biochemistry at Clemson University in South Carolina. “Thus, we have been limited in how we can attack this in order to identify the gene or genes, that contribute to this horrible disease. However, we are encouraged by the success that we and others have had using SNP technology [unique DNA tests] to identify genetic markers associated with various traits and we will be employing this approach to EPI.”

It is important that this research continues. EPI is rapidly spreading across all breeds. It is no longer just a GSD disease, or a working dog disease. Dogs of all breeds, including crossbreeds, are being diagnosed with EPI. It is happening in family lines too often to be coincidence without a genetic component. Yet, not every family member or generation in affected lines has EPI. For now, until we can actually test for the genetic markers, the best possible control is to remove positively confirmed EPI dogs from breeding programs. Once genetic markers are identified in GSDs, the markers in other breeds will be more easily detected.

Although there are many success stories, there are also heart-wrenching tales of dogs who cannot thrive, families who cannot afford the treatment, and throughout it all, the painful suffering the dog endures unless successfully treated. EPI can no longer be a “hush-hush” disease. My hope is that this article will make a difference by helping raise awareness of EPI to the level of other major canine diseases.

Many EPI Dogs Flourish

Kara surfaced as a stray in a shelter and was subsequently turned over to the Long Island Shetland Sheepdog Rescue group. When they received her, they did not expect her to survive the night, she was so sick and emaciated. They guessed that she was probably one to two years old, but she weighed barely seven pounds – half her ideal weight.

Kara was lucky; she was diagnosed promptly with EPI. While in foster care for four months, Audrey Blake met Kara twice during training classes and the frail little dog with the outgoing personality captured her heart. Although she understood that Kara would need pancreatic enzymes for every meal and a special diet, Blake took Kara home. Today, Kara is known as “U-CD Twenty Four Karat Gold, UD, TDI, CGC (Kara), Rescue Sheltie,” and happily resides with Blake on Long Island, New York.

Sadly, Some Dogs Perish

At five years old, Wayde was taken in by German Shepherd Rescue of New England. Wayde was found to have EPI, an all-too-common problem with GSDs. He also had the secondary bacterial infection, SIBO. Even with enzymes added to his diet, Wayde continued to drop weight until he was only 54 pounds and seemed sad and listless all the time.

Wayde was in the kennel for many months. Finally, a couple who was familiar with EPI, Pamela and Peter Burghardt from Wilmot, New Hampshire, decided to foster Wayde. In their home, his whole demeanor changed; he became happy and gained more than
two pounds the first week. Wayde soon settled in with his foster family and became a sweet “Velcro” dog. He became best friends with his foster sister, another white GSD.

Sadly, Wayde was diagnosed with cancer a few weeks after going into foster care and passed away four months later. Despite the cancer, he had gained 14 pounds and was active and happy to the end.

Olesia Kennedy, a retired research analyst, and previously involved in Canine Search & Rescue, currently devotes her skills and time to EPI research. She resides with her husband and three Spanish Water Dogs in Georgetown, Indiana.

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