Many of us have dogs who bite down too hard when taking treats – the behavior sometimes known as “hard mouth.” Some dogs take treats forcefully all the time; others get hard mouths only when stressed or excited. One theory is that a hard mouth is a function of bite inhibition – or lack thereof. If a dog doesn’t learn to use his mouth softly during puppyhood, he’s likely to resort to using too much pressure with his mouth throughout his life. But some dogs with acceptably soft mouths take treats hard when stressed or excited. Here are five things you can do when facing a “hard mouth” challenge:
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1.Teach remedial bite inhibition (see “Light Bite,” WDJ June 2010). Even though this may not get you through the higher arousal situations with your fingers intact, it will help a lot with everyday treat-feeding.
2.Use lower-value treats. Wait, what? I often exhort you to use high-value treats for effective training. But the chances are good that an “alligator dog” is very motivated to work for food; he may work just as hard for pieces of kibble as he does for chunks of chicken – and it may tone down his enthusiasm enough to save your digits. Try training after meals instead of before. This goes against our standard advice to train when you know your dog is hungry – which logically means before he eats his dinner. The exception is the dog who strains your hand through his teeth as he forcibly removes the treat from your grasp. Taking the edge off his appetite may help him remember to be gentle.
3.Feed him like a horse. Equestrians feed treats on the flat of the hand; horses can have trouble distinguishing fingers from carrots. You can do the same with your dog. It’s a little trickier because we’re often luring with treats, which can make fingers a prime target, but you can lure to get your dog to do the behavior, then click and quickly feed a treat from the flat palm of your other hand.
4. Toss or spit treats to your dog. Treats don’t always have to be delivered to your dog’s mouth from your hand; you can often toss them on the ground for your dog to eat. This isn’t a good choice when you want to reinforce a non-moving behavior (such as wait, stay, or down) by giving your dog a treat while he’s in the correct position, because a tossed treat may pull your dog out of position. But tossing works just fine for many others behaviors such as targeting and “leave it.” An old obedience competition trick is to teach your dog to catch treats that you spit to him from your mouth. That reinforces him for the behavior you asked for as well as for looking adoringly at you – when actually he’s staring intently at your mouth waiting for the next treat to fly out. (Of course, you have to use treats you’re willing to put in your own mouth, such as slices of hot dog.)
5. Use a treat-feeding tool. My favorite is a camping tube, designed for holding moist foods on camping trips in secure, easy-to-carry containers (available at camping supply stores). These require that you use treats that are in a gel or paste form, such as peanut butter, cream cheese or other soft cheese, or canned dog food. The back end of the tube opens wide so that you can load the food in and then close it up, and a cap screws off the other end so you can squeeze out a little when desired. (You may need to experiment to get your treats to be the proper consistency to ooze out the end of the tube at the desired rate.) Other treat-feeding tools that you can use to protect your hands include:
Gloves: My least favorite, as gloves can be awkward and interfere with dexterity, and are hot in the summer!
Finger splints: These are small foam-padded metal finger covers that Velcro onto your fingers. Many dogs don’t like to bite on metal, and if it doesn’t slow your dog down, the metal splint still protects your finger. Using a finger splint, you can still deliver treats in the normal fashion, rather from the flat of your hand.
Spoons: A metal spoon, like the finger splint, can convince many dogs to bite softly because it doesn’t feel good to bite on metal. You will need to use a soft treat that will stick to the spoon.
Easy Cheese (made by Kraft Foods) or similar “squeeze cheese” spread: These are not the healthiest snacks, but used in moderation as training treats, they can be very helpful. You bend the nozzle at its base with your finger to release a few drops or globs and your dog licks the cheese-like substance off the end of the nozzle. No teeth needed at all!
Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, cdbc, of Fairplay, Maryland, is WDJ’s Training Editor. See page 24 for contact info for Pat or her Peaceable Paws training center.
Many women use topical estrogen creams, lotions, gels, or sprays to help relieve symptoms associated with menopause, such as hot flashes, mood swings, and bone loss. These preparations contain progesterone, estradiol, or similar hormones and are available both over-the-counter and by prescription.
According to the Veterinary Information Network (VIN) News Service, veterinarians have recently become aware that symptoms of hyperestrogenism in dogs can be linked to their owners’ use of topical hormone preparations. These products are often applied to the inner arms, and the hormones are then transferred from the hands or arms when the owner pets or holds the dog. Hormones can also be ingested if the dog licks the ointment from the skin or swallows a transdermal patch.
Signs of hyperestrogenism
Exogenous estrogen can cause swollen vulvas in spayed female dogs or young female puppies, often with even more swelling than if they were in heat. Females may be attractive to males and even allow mating.
Affected male dogs can develop enlarged mammary glands, and male pups may have an underdeveloped penis and testes. Prostate infection, particularly in young dogs, may also be linked to exposure to hormones.
These excess hormones can also cause hair loss in both sexes. Often referred to as endocrine alopecia, Alopecia X, or Adrenal Hyperplasia-Like Syndrome, the hair loss (alopecia) is described as bilaterally symmetric, meaning it affects both sides of the body similarly.
Veterinarians are often at a loss to explain such signs, and may try treatment with antibiotics or corticosteroids such as prednisone. Ovarian remnant syndrome, where part of the ovary is accidentally left behind during a spay, is often suspected, particularly if the dog was spayed during the prior year, and some dogs have been subjected to a second surgery to search for the ovarian tissue thought to be causing the symptoms.
Special endocrinology tests may reveal elevated levels of estradiol, called hyperestrogenism or hyperestrinism, but will not indicate the cause of the excess hormones. Adrenal disorders such as atypical Cushing’s disease (Canine Atypical Hyperadrenocorticism, or CAH) may be suspected, with treatments ranging from melatonin and high-lignan flaxseed oil to Lysodren or other drugs used to treat Cushing’s disease. None will have any effect on symptoms caused by exogenous hormones.
Cats may also be affected, often behaving as though continually in heat.
Treatment and prevention
If you use topical hormone preparations, apply them to areas that are covered by clothing, such as your inner thighs. It’s best to use gloves to apply the ointments, or at least wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.
Signs in affected dogs often resolve within a couple of months once exposure ceases, though it may take longer, particularly if exposure has been prolonged. In some cases, it may be necessary for the dog owner to switch to a transdermal patch rather than using topical ointments before signs in the affected dog improve.
Awareness
Veterinarians need to be aware of the possibility of secondary estrogen exposure when confronted with patients exhibiting signs of hormone imbalance, and should ask their clients whether anyone in the household is using topical hormone preparations. Even young women may be using these products in certain cases, such as following a hysterectomy.
Comparable problems have also been seen in children exposed to hormones in a similar way. The FDA issued a warning in 2009 regarding the adverse effects that testosterone gel, used by both men and women, can have on young children who are inadvertently exposed through secondary contact.
According to VIN, the FDA said it “has received reports of inadvertent exposure to topical estrogen products in children and pets through contact with another person being treated with the products (secondary exposure). The Center for Drug Evaluation and Research and the Center for Veterinary Medicine are evaluating these reports.”
While problems relating to topical estrogen preparations appear to be on the rise, particularly as baby boomers reach the age of menopause, they don’t account for all cases of elevated hormones. One internal medicine specialist who is well versed in this issue estimates that ovarian remnant syndrome still outnumbers secondary hormone exposure by a ratio of ten to one.
Reporting
The Veterinary Information Network is considering conducting a survey to determine the prevalence of secondary exposure to pets of topical hormone products. If your dog or cat (or, if you are a veterinarian, your client’s pet) has exhibited signs associated with such exposure and you would like to participate in the survey, please send your name and contact information to news@vin.com.
To report a suspected case to the FDA, call (888) FDA-VETS and request form 1932a; fill it out and return. Or go to www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/SafetyHealth and select “Veterinary Adverse Event Voluntary Reporting.” – Mary Straus
1. Manage your dog’s world to maximize structure and consistency and minimize stress and the likelihood she will develop compulsive behavior.
2. Be on the lookout for any signs your dog is developing a compulsive disorder and address them immediately if they appear.
3. Avoid engaging in behaviors with your dog that are likely to elicit compulsive disorder such as chasing a flashlight or laser beam, or reinforcing tail-chasing.
4. If your dog has an established obsessive compulsive disorder, seek the help of a qualified behavior professional, and realize that effective treatment will probably include the use of behavior modification drugs.
Owners of herding and sporting breeds – Border Collies, Aussies, Kelpies, Labradors, Goldens, and others – often cheerfully talk about their dogs’ “obsession” with tennis balls. What they really mean is that their dogs are very reinforced by the opportunity to chase a ball.
That kind of intense interest in a ball or toy can be useful for training and management purposes, and it’s definitely not what we’re talking about when we use the term “obsessive compulsive disorder” or OCD. An OCD can be a difficult and debilitating behavior for you and your dog to live with; it’s not a cause for cheerful discussion.
What is Obsessive Compulsive Disorder in Dogs?
Also called canine compulsive disorder (CCD) and compulsive behavior disorder (CBD), OCDs have been defined by behavior researchers Drs. Andrew Luescher and Caroline Hewson as, “Behaviors that are usually brought on by conflict, but that are subsequently shown outside of the original context . . . Compulsive behaviors seem abnormal because they are displayed out of context and are often repetitive, exaggerated, or sustained.” Dr. Luescher, a veterinary behaviorist and director of Purdue University’s Animal Behavior Clinic, estimates that about 1 dog out of 50 suffers from canine compulsive disorder. Luescher and Hewson suggest that examples of environmental stressors that can trigger compulsive behaviors include:
– Physical restraints such as close confinement and chaining.
– Social conflicts that arise from competition for status, changes in social group, or separation.
– An unpredictable or uncontrollable environment.
– A lack of target object for normal behavior. For example, a dog kept isolated has no normal outlet for its instinct to interact within a group, whether animal or human.
Common OCDs include behaviors such as spinning, tail chasing, fly snapping, shadow chasing, air licking, flank sucking, pica, persistent barking, and “hallucinating.” Despite the intriguing names for these behaviors, they are not fun for a dog or for his humans. In fact, they can make life pretty miserable, and are evidence that the dog is living in an environment that is stressful for him.
Much of the underpinnings of OCDs are still a mystery to the veterinary medical and behavior world. There is evidence that suggests while they are all neurologically based, they are not all caused by the same physiological phenomenon; there may be several different classes of OCDs. Results of studies suggest that locomotive disorders such as spinning, and oral disorders such as licking, are controlled by different parts of the brain. Still, all of the different classes appear to be related to conflict resulting from stress or arousal, and all seem to respond to similar treatment.
According to Steve Lindsay in his Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Volume Three: Procedures and Protocols, “Dogs most prone to develop compulsive behavior problems are frequently high-strung and impulsive . . . Highly motivated and high-strung dogs who are intolerant of conflict and frustration seem to be particularly at risk for developing compulsive habits.” It would stand to reason that dog breeds whose propensity for intense motivation has been enhanced by selective breeding – such as the herding and sporting breeds – would be more prone to compulsive behaviors.
Indeed, there is a genetic component to the propensity to develop OCDs, and certain breeds do have a predisposition for certain compulsive behaviors. It has been suggested that seizure activity may play a role in triggering canine compulsive behaviors, but there is no scientific evidence to support that theory, and most behaviorists agree the primary culprit is stress. Dr. Andrew Luescher was quoted in a January 7, 2010, ScienceDaily article saying, “You could probably make every dog have compulsive disorder if you provide enough threats or conflict.”
A Menu of Obsessive Compulsive Canine Behaviors
The following are some of the more common canine obsessive compulsive disorders.
LOCOMOTIVE
Spinning: Dog turns in place in rapid circles.
Tail chasing: The dog turns in place in rapid circles, but appears to be focused on his tail.
Shadow or light chasing: Chases light reflections with extreme intensity; fixates on possible light sources.
Pacing: Repetitive movement back and forth in a straight line – can be walking or running. Often seen in zoo animals and dogs in kennels, or along line fences.
ORAL
Fly snapping: Dog snaps randomly in air, apparently at invisible objects. Seeing a flying insect may spark the behavior, but it persists when insects are not present.
Pica: Ingesting inappropriate objects (far beyond normal/expected chewing) – sometimes to the point that emergency surgery is need to remove objects, such as stones, acorns, or socks.
Chewing or licking self: Dog licks and/or chews feet, legs, or anywhere on body; can cause the development of “lick granulomas,” sores, or dermatitis. If your dog is a chronic tail biter, other underlying problems may be present.
Air or nose licking: The dog licks at the air in front of his face.
Licking others or objects: Dog persistently licks humans, other dogs, blankets, toys or other objects.
Polyphagia or polydipsia: Dog eats or drinks excessively, resulting in excessive defecation and/or urination. There is sometimes a medical cause for these behaviors, but sometimes it is OCD.
Flank sucking or object sucking: Dog sucks on his own flank or on toys, blankets, or other objects.
VOCALIZATION
Persistent howling or rhythmic barking for no discernible reason.
AGGRESSION
Inexplicable self-directed aggression – attacking hindquarters, legs, tail; attacking food bowl and other inanimate objects.
What to Do with an OCD Dog
As with any undesirable behavior, you’re better off not letting an OCD become established in the first place. Whether you have a breed that is prone to OCD or not, you can dodge the bullet by keeping your dog in a well-structured environment with a regular routine, and avoiding introducing obvious stressors such as yelling at, hitting, or alpha-rolling your dog. If, despite your best efforts you do see the glimmerings of OCD behavior, you’ll have greatest success in extinguishing it if you address it immediately rather than waiting until it’s full-blown.
Your attention can reinforce an OCD behavior. Tail-chasing is often perceived as cute by owners who laugh and praise the dog and encourage the behavior. OCD tail-chasing is not cute. Fortunately, it can sometimes be extinguished in early stages by removing all attention.
I had clients whose four-month-old Golden Retriever pup had OCD pica and had already had one emergency surgery to remove pebbles and acorns from his stomach. When Corky showed interest in chasing his tail, I counseled his owners to immediately leave the room as soon as he started the behavior. (Dogs with one OCD often easily adopt another.) Within a few weeks the tail-chasing had stopped.
There are a number of things you can do to reduce general stress levels for your dog. Prophylactic stress reduction can prevent OCD, and reducing the dog’s stress in the early stages may extinguish it. But reducing the dog’s stress (as part of a complete behavior modification program) can reduce even well-established OCD behaviors. Stress-reducing tactics include:
– Explore, rule out, or treat medical conditions that might contribute to stress, including thyroid. (See “Help for Dogs With Hypothyroidsim,” June 2005.)
– Increase exercise on a consistent schedule. This is an important one. Not only does exercise use up energy that might otherwise feed OCD behaviors, but aerobic exercise promotes endorphin release, which has a calming effect.
– Train your dog. Training helps your dog understand what’s expected of him, and what you are communicating to him. His world makes more sense, so it’s less stressful to him. If your dog is trained and responds to your requests for behavior, it’s less stressful for you as well, and you’re less likely to be tempted to punish him, which is, in turn, less stressful for him.
– Use plug-in, spray, and collar-infused Dog Appeasing Pheromones (DAP/Comfort Zone). DAP is a synthetic substance that mimics the pheromones emitted by a mother dog when she’s nursing her pups. It has a calming effect on a significant number of adult dogs.
– Play “Through a Dog’s Ear.” These bio-acoustically engineered CDs feature soothing classical music, and have been clinically demonstrated to reduce canine heart rates. (They calm people, too!)
– Make sure your dog is on a high-quality (or at least good-quality) diet.
– Utilize products such as Doggles (canine sunglasses) to reduce visual stress, the Thundershirt and the Anxiety Wrap to reduce environmental stress.
– Apply calming massage or T-Touch, in conjunction with aromatherapy. If your dog associates calming touch with the scent of lavender, that scent can be used at other times to help evoke calmness.
OCD and Stress in Dogs
With any stress-induced behaviors, including OCDs, your first assignment is to identify and reduce as many of your dog’s stressors as possible. Of primary importance is identification and removal, if possible, or at least management, of the proximate cause of the dog’s stress or conflict.
Following that, you want to address all stressors, not just the one(s) that seem to trigger the OCD behavior. Most households can identify a list of 10 to 20 stressors for their dogs. A short list might look like this:
1. Being crated
2. Small children
3. People and/or dogs walking past the front windows
4. Nail trimming
5. Riding in the car
6. Threats to his resources
7. Thunder
8. Prong collar
9. Verbal and/or physical punishment
10. Owner stress
Decide which of the following strategies you can effectively apply to each stressor on the list to reduce its effect on your dog’s overall stress level:
– Use counter-conditioning to change the dog’s opinion of (that is, his association with) the stressor.
– Teach the dog a new, incompatible behavior using operant conditioning.
– Manage the dog’s environment to reduce his exposure to the stressor.
– Get rid of the stressor.
– Live with it.
You could get rid of crating stress simply by not crating the dog anymore. Or you could change his opinion by giving him a new, positive association with the crate. You could use counter-conditioning to help him like children, or, if there aren’t children in the home, you could simply manage them as a stressor by removing him when children are around. You can manage your dog’s arousal at passers-by simply by blocking his access to the window, and you can also counter-condition his response so he no longer becomes aroused. You could also teach him a new behavior, so that someone walking by the window is his cue to go lie down on his rug in the kitchen.
Stressors 4 through 7 are also good candidates for counter-conditioning. You could manage thunder stress with the use of anti-anxiety medication and a Thundershirt.
Stressors 8 and 9 fall into the “get rid of it” group. Stop using a collar that causes pain and stop doing bad things to your dog and his stress is guaranteed to decrease. By themselves those two stressors could be the proximate cause for a compulsive disorder.
Stressor 10 is a “live with it.” Just be aware that when you are stressed (any stress; it doesn’t have to be dog-related) that you add to your dog’s stress load, and it is likely that you will trigger one of your dog’s OCD incidents.
When to Call A Veterinary Behaviorist
Of course, removing stressors alone is not likely to “fix” most well-established OCDs. Chances are quite high that all the above steps to reduce stress and promote calm won’t be enough to extinguish your dog’s OCD behavior.
You can try removing reinforcement for the behavior, and you can try positively reinforcing an alternative behavior that’s incompatible with the OCD (sit, instead of spin, for example). However, it’s well-accepted in the behavior field that a serious compulsive behavior almost always requires intervention with behavior modification drugs.
For this, you need a veterinary behaviorist, or at least your own veterinarian needs to work in close consultation with a veterinary behaviorist. The use of psychotropic drugs is complex and requires a thorough education in the field – it’s not acceptable for a veterinarian to reach for the first behavior drug that the last pharmaceutical company salesman talked him into buying.
Also, I cannot stress strongly enough the critical importance of working with a board-certified veterinary behaviorist when it comes to selecting, administering, and monitoring the use of drugs for your dog’s compulsive disorder. Virtually every veterinary behaviorist will do free phone consultations with other veterinarians, so there’s no excuse not to. There are fewer than 50 of them in the United States.
How Common is Dog OCD?
So what are the chances, really, that you’ll need all this information about OCDs? I think Dr. Luescher’s estimate of 2 percent of the canine population might be quite conservative. In our pack of five dogs, only Dubhy, the Scottie, shows a total lack of OCD tendencies. That’s a whopping 80 percent in our household!
Bonnie, our Scorgidoodle, likes to lick others incessantly. Exercise goes a long way toward minimizing her annoying licking behavior, as does reinforcing an incompatible behavior. (Here, Bonnie, chew on this orange. She loves oranges.)
Scooter the Pomeranian will lick objects, especially blankets or sheets. This behavior has decreased significantly since we adopted him over a year ago. A lot of his stress, I’m sure, had to do with all the upheaval and uncertainty in his tiny world. (He was left to fend for himself on the streets, then spent weeks in a noisy shelter. And even though he has a nice home with us, it’s been stressful for him to have to adapt to living with four dogs who are two to four times his size!)
Lucy, the Cardigan Corgi, will engage in spinning if she doesn’t get enough exercise. She spun during her shelter assessment after being confined to the shelter kennel for several days, and started spinning here on two separate occasions when she was on “restricted activity” for medical reasons. Usually, normal farm activity and occasional hikes are enough to keep the spinning demon at bay.
Missy, the Aussie, licks her feet and does air and nose licks. Her stress is probably a combination of multiple rehomings prior to coming to live with us, status conflicts with Lucy, and separation distress; we’re still working on those.
Please note: Our dogs all came to us from the shelter with these behaviors, so I’m not taking credit – or blame – for their compulsive behaviors!
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of several books on positive training, including her latest: Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.
1. If you can, look for a positive, dog—friendly trainer before you adopt your new dog or puppy, so you can thoroughly research candidates in your area.
2. Watch the candidates in action, preferably while they teach several different classes.
3. If your dog has serious behavior challenges, look for an animal behavior professional with the education and experience needed to properly assess your dog and recommend appropriate treatment.
People have many questions when it comes to dog training: Lure-reward training or clicker training? Group classes or private lessons? Basic obedience or beyond? What type of trainer is best for dealing with your dog’s behavior challenges?
Dog training professionals may have widely varying amounts and types of experience and education. The perfect puppy class instructor may not be the best consultant for dealing with your dog’s fear-based or aggression problem.
Finding the right trainer is an important piece of the training puzzle. Dog training is an unregulated industry; anyone can hang up a sign and instantly become a dog trainer. If you mix some decent Web-authoring skills with a college-level book on public relations, even yesterday’s Fed-Ex clerk can have the Web presence of a seasoned dog training professional. Adding to the confusion is the complicated assortment of titles used to describe dog trainers: trainer, behavior consultant, behaviorist, dog psychologist, human-canine relationship counselor, and many others. How does one make sense of the dog trainer name game?
The reality is that anyone who studies the field of behavior can call themselves a behaviorist. But not all behaviorists are created equal. I like to ride my bike. Does that make me a cyclist? Does it make me a cyclist in a Lance Armstrong way?
In the professional dog world, the term “behaviorist” is somewhat controversial. Some trainers call themselves “behaviorists” because they help clients modify their dogs’ behavior. This can range from annoying behaviors such as stealing food or jumping up, to more severe problems such as fear and aggression. Other trainers refrain from calling themselves behaviorists out of respect for “applied animal behaviorists” and “veterinary behaviorists” – two types of professionals who have met certain educational and certification requirements.
Dog Training Professional Titles and What They Mean
Let’s take a look at the credentialed training professionals who are available for consultation.
Applied Animal Behaviorists are certified by the Animal Behavior Society (ABS), a professional organization dedicated to the study of animal behavior. In order to apply for ABS certification, the professional must possess a graduate-level education in ethology, learning theory, comparative psychology, psychology, biology, zoology, animal science, or experimental design. She must also have a minimum of three to five years of professional experience.
Candidates with a Master’s degree in a related field may apply for certification at the Associate level (Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or ACAAB). Professionals with a PhD or veterinarians with at least five years of clinical experience may be certified at the Full level (Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or CAAB).
When would an owner consult a certified applied animal behaviorist? Perhaps in cases of extreme aggression – such as a dog who causes physical harm by biting humans or other dogs – or for a dog whose fear issues impact his quality of life. Often, local trainers will consult with an applied animal behaviorist on a specific case. This provides the benefit of the behaviorist’s additional educational and clinical expertise in a manner that is generally more cost-effective for the client.
Veterinary behaviorists have completed a minimum of a two-year residency under the guidance of a board-certified veterinarian and are professionally certified as Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB). Veterinary behaviorists are knowledgeable in psychopharmacology and may incorporate pharmaceutical therapy into behavior modification protocols. DACVBs are a rare breed. As of this writing, only 48 were listed on the ACVB website.
In human terms, a veterinary behaviorist is comparable to a psychiatrist, whereas an applied animal behaviorist may be comparable to a psychologist. Veterinary behaviorists are often consulted when behavior modification alone does not affect change. In extreme cases (such as clinical separation anxiety, obsessive-compulsive disorders, phobias, and idiopathic aggression), medication is often needed to help the dog achieve a mental state in which learning can occur.
When medicating dogs for behavioral problems, it’s extremely important that they are closely monitored by a professional with an educational and professional background in animal behavior. Subtle behavior changes, often easy for the family veterinarian alone to miss, can mean that a change in medication type or dosage is urgently needed.
If you cannot access a veterinary behaviorist, contact an applied animal behaviorist who can work with you and your veterinarian to determine if medication is appropriate. The standard vet school education does not include an in-depth study of animal behavior. We generally recommend against using your family veterinarian as the sole source of expertise when it comes to behavior problems.
Please note that all types of training professionals will potentially work with the same types of animal behavior problems. The difference is, while a good self-titled behaviorist will have years of experience and continuing education behind him, applied animal behaviorists and veterinary behaviorists must have a certain amount of education and experience under their belts in order to become certified, credentialed professionals. Any good self-titled behavior professional will also have a relationship with one or more certified behaviorists they can consult with and/or refer to when a client has needs beyond the scope of her own education and training.
Who We Refer to as Dog “Trainers”
In the world of noncredentialed behaviorists, there are a variety of dog training professionals. Depending on the types of issues they feel comfortable working with (basic obedience training versus behavior problems) titles usually include dog trainer, behavior consultant, behavior specialist, or behavior therapist. Recently, and I suspect in response to the proliferation of the Cesar Millan brand, the term “dog psychologist” can even be found with greater frequency.
(It’s worth noting that there is no educational field of “dog psychology,” only mentions of it in the context of understanding canine social behavior and how dogs learn.)
Regardless of what they call themselves, people who teach human clients to teach new behaviors to the clients’ dogs or to change the dogs’ existing behaviors offer a variety of skill sets, educational backgrounds, and degrees of experience. There are lots of schools that offer education in dog training, many of which provide students with a certification upon completion of a fee-based program. Such certifications are the program’s way of acknowledging that the student satisfactorily completed the requirements of the program. This differs from an independent assessment of the student’s general knowledge and ability as a trainer.
One popular independent trainer certification is offered by the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers. Those who meet the requirements and pass the evaluation and testing can use the title, “Certified Pet Dog Trainer, Knowledge-Assessed” (CPDT-KA). Requirements for certification include:
Trainer must have completed at least 300 hours of dog training experience within the past five years, most of which must be actual teaching time as the lead instructor in a class or private setting.
Trainer must pass a 250-question examination covering instructor skills, animal husbandry, ethology, learning theory, and training equipment.
CPDT trainers must undergo recertification every three years, either by re-taking the exam or earning a minimum of 36 continuing education units by attending approved educational seminars.
Another in-depth certification program is offered by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). This organization grants certified membership to professionals who have completed a minimum of three years and 1,500 hours in animal behavior consulting; 500 hours minimum of verifiable advanced instruction/education related to the core areas of competency (assessment, consulting skills, learning theory, general behavior knowledge, and species-specific knowledge); and the ability to communicate clearly through written work and case studies.
Professionals with a high school diploma, 300 hours in behavior consulting with their species of choice, a CPDT-KA or equivalent knowledge, and experience in two of five core areas of competency can apply for associate membership.
Prerequisites for Finding a Good Dog Trainer
It’s important to note that many gifted and talented trainers hold no formal certification at all, yet they successfully change the lives of dogs and their owners for the better on a daily basis.
When choosing a trainer, it’s critical to do a lot of research in order to avoid being misled by important-sounding terminology. Whatever the title, from “dog trainer” to “behavior specialist,” a competent training professional will have a solid understanding of dog behavior and learning theory, combined with a thirst for knowledge and a commitment to continuing education.
A superior training professional should be well-versed in humane, dog-friendly training techniques. She should promote her clients’ ability to get their dogs to comply because of a relationship based on mutual trust, understanding, and respect, not one based on fear, dominance, or submission.
When choosing a trainer, take your time and find someone you’re comfortable with. Not all trainers are the same, and your dog is counting on you to help make learning a positive (in every sense of the word!) experience. Do some research before starting school – preferably even before you acquire your dog or puppy! Ask your friends, family members, local veterinarians, or even folks at your local dog park for references. Ask the owners of the best-behaved and happiest-looking dogs you meet where they went for training and if they were happy with the experience.
Observe carefully! Do the dogs comply with their owners’ requests slowly and with tucked tails, lowered heads and ears, and averted eyes? These may be signs that the dogs are being trained with force- or fear-based training methods. Note the name of the trainer – but don’t go there unless you see ample proof that these dogs are exceptions to the typical canine graduates of that program.
If, in contrast, the dogs comply cheerfully, ears and tails up, eyes bright and interested, their owners may have been taught to train with truly positive methods. There are resilient force-trained dogs who fit this description, but generally, an eager countenance and eagerness to volunteer behavior is a hallmark of a dog who has been trained without punitive methods.
Questions to Ask Your Prospective Dog Trainers
Once you’ve established your short list of trainer prospects, contact each of them and learn a bit about them. What is their background? If the trainer is going to help you train your dog for an activity such as therapy dog work, competitive obedience, or agility, do they have experience in (or sufficient knowledge of) the activity to successfully guide your training journey?
If you’re seeking help with a complex behavioral issue such as fear, anxiety, or aggression, find out if the trainer has successfully worked with similar cases in the past. These issues may be beyond the ability of a novice trainer. Matters can quickly be made worse in even a single short session with someone who lacks the education and experience to succeed with an aggressive or deeply fearful or anxious dog. Ask for references from clients or fellow dog professionals who are familiar with the trainer’s work.
Also, find out what specific training techniques a candidate would expect to employ. Ideally you’ll have been referred to trainers who practice scientifically sound, modern, dog-friendly training techniques. If they describe themselves as “positive trainers,” ask specifically what that means. Some trainers call themselves positive because they use treats for correct behavior, but they use physical corrections for unwanted behavior. (We suggest asking: “Do you ever use leash corrections?” Pay attention to any “weasel words” in the answer, such as, “No, but we sometimes use a quick ‘pop’ on the leash when the dog pulls.” Pop goes the weasel!)
Modern, educated professionals agree that when working with aggressive or fearful dogs, fear- and pain-based training methods make matters worse, not better.
Inquire about the equipment that is used in class. Reward-based trainers stay away from choke chains and pinch collars in favor of plain, flat collars, or head halters and no-pull body harnesses if needed.
Some trainers feel it’s okay to employ dramatically different training techniques or equipment for different dogs; for example, switching from lure-reward training with one dog to corrections with a choke, pinch, or remote collar with another. It can be quite disconcerting to students practicing positive training methods to watch the student next to them employing such corrections, so be sure to find out in advance what the instructor’s policy is.
A good reward-based instructor will be able to offer several positive alternatives for teaching the same behavior, recognizing that one size does not fit all when it comes to training dogs. To that end, find out if the trainers regularly participate in continuing education to stay abreast of the latest developments in positive training.
Now Sit In on a Dog Training Class
It’s also important to take the time to watch the trainer in action. A good trainer will have no problem with you coming to observe a group class. Pay attention to both the human and canine students. Do they appear to be enjoying the experience? Is the class safely under control? Does it seem like there are too many dogs and people in the class? Does the instructor have an assistant to help keep an eye on things?
Find out what behavioral issues can be safely incorporated into the class. For example, many instructors can successfully incorporate overly excited or even dog-aroused dogs (within reason) into the class by using strategically placed barriers that help block the aroused dog’s visual access to his canine peers. If the instructor allows such dogs in a class setting, watch to make sure that they are handled in a way that makes the rest of the class feel safe.
Find out what procedures are in place to help students who might be struggling. Is there adequate time and personnel in class to help students who need it? Do the trainers and assistants make the rounds to each student during practice time, or do students appear to be on their own as the trainers chat amongst themselves?
Is the instructor available before or after class to answer questions? What about between class sessions? Are written handouts provided? Watch how the instructor interacts with the students. Is there a genuine interest in what they’re doing and an overall feeling of support? Does she seem like someone you would be comfortable working with and learning from?
In a group class setting, the most significant teaching happens between the instructor and the dog’s owner. It’s the instructor’s job to teach the owner how to effectively communicate with the dog so that successful training can take place throughout the week between classes. If you don’t mesh well with the instructor, you won’t get as much out of the class.
Take note of what’s being taught in the class and make sure that those behaviors are aligned with your personal goals for you and your dog. Some classes may focus on exercises required for competition obedience events, while others focus on improving the behavior of the family pet.
For example, coming when called in a competition obedience class might focus on teaching the dog to wait as you walk away and come sit in front of you when called. A pet-friendly class might stress the need to teach your dog to turn away from high-level distractions and race to you upon hearing his recall word. Be sure to find a class that covers what will be most useful to you and your family.
Speaking of family, if you have kids, find out if the instructor has an age restriction or other special rules or requirements for children attending the training class.
How to Handle a Dog Training Class Gone Wrong
Even when you research a class or enroll on a strong recommendation, you still might encounter a training situation that makes you uncomfortable. Always remember that it’s your dog and you have final say about how he’s trained.
If a trainer talks about a training technique that makes you uncomfortable and then wants to demonstrate with your dog, it’s okay to say, “No.” A simple, “I’d rather not use that technique on my dog,” can politely convey your position without causing a scene. Later, ask if the instructor has an alternate method of teaching the behavior in question. By engaging the instructor after class, it shows that you’re willing to learn, but have set boundaries.
If you find yourself in a class where other students’ behavior toward their dogs makes you uncomfortable, take note of who they are and plan not to sit next to them or quietly move away. If the handling is extreme, approach the instructor after class and ask if that behavior is acceptable. She might not have observed it first-hand and should appreciate you bringing it up so that she can potentially suggest alternatives.
If a trainer corrects your dog in a way that you find unacceptable, definitely speak up. If he is not being abusive and your dog is not in imminent danger, wait until class is finished. Politely explain that you avoid using such techniques and ask that he refrain from using them on your dog, A good trainer will respect this. If he challenges you, consider leaving the class. Maintaining a healthy relationship with your dog is worth far more than forfeiting class tuition.
Rarely, there are reports of trainers who are downright abusive to dogs during training. If you encounter such handling, step in and gain control of your dog immediately. Yelling, hitting, alpha-rolling, etc, is never okay. Withdraw from the class and consider notifying any professional organizations in which the trainer is a member, as well as posting an honest review on consumer websites such as Yelp.
Most importantly, always remember that it’s your dog and that you have the final say over how he’s treated. If something makes you uncomfortable, it’s okay to put an immediate stop to it.
How to Be a Star Student When Attending a Dog Training Class
Your behavior is just as important as your dog’s. The following tips will help you and your dog get the most out of your training experience:
1. Do your best to come prepared. If the instructor sends pre-class information, be sure to read through it so you know what to bring.
2. Communicate with the instructor. If you have a handicap that will prevent you from doing the exercises that the instructor suggests, let her know, so she can modify the exercises to your benefit. If you’re struggling with something between classes, speak up! The instructor can’t help you if she doesn’t know you have a problem.
3. Be patient. Your “bad habits” don’t go away overnight. Your dog’s won’t either! Avoid being too quick to label a training technique as “not working” just because you haven’t seen results in a week. Keep at it. Think in terms of progress, not perfection. Persistence is key.
4. Practice! Training your dog is like joining a gym. You have to spend time working out to see results. Be sure to do your homework between class sessions.
5. Focus your attention on your dog during training. Try to set the kids up with an activity to keep them safely occupied and turn off mobile phones and other distractions.
6. Come to class with an open mind. Be willing to experiment with techniques that might be different from what you’re used to. At the same time, remember that you are your dog’s best advocate. Never let a trainer talk you into doing something to your dog that makes you uncomfortable.
The Work Pays Off
Finding the right trainer and class can make all the difference. At a minimum, it helps ensure that you and your dog learn how to effectively communicate with each other, allowing you to create a well-mannered canine companion that you’re proud of. For some, finding the right class is what sparks a lifelong love of dog training and opens the door to the wide world of activities that can be enjoyed in the company of a dog. You may well find you learn as much – if not more – from your dog as he learns from you!
It wasn’t so bad, really, as behavior slips go. My dog Otto woofed at a kid at close range. The kid thought Otto was playing; I knew that Otto was scared, and I mentally smacked myself for being inattentive. I was taking pictures at a dog park, and Otto had been happily playing with the other dogs as I worked. I hadn’t noticed that a small boy – perhaps five years old? – had entered the park and had started chasing the dogs around.
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We can certainly debate the wisdom of having small children in dog parks (I hate to see them there; it’s much too easy for them to get knocked over or even attacked in a moment of arousal). But the fact is, I wasn’t paying enough attention to my dog – and frankly, it’s because I sometimes take it for granted that he’s generally so well-behaved. He’s not perfect, though; no dog is. (No people are, either.) And so I should have been – should always be – more vigilant.
I’ve mentioned before that Otto is a little spooked by kids. He’s also afraid of cars, garbage trucks, and the gardeners who service some of the yards in our neighborhood. My husband and I joke about a scenario in which Otto was kidnapped as a puppy by a garbageman and then abused by gardeners and their kids before being tossed out of a moving car. It’s a joke because I know that it’s more likely that a young dog who is fearful of certain things is more likely to lack experience and exposure to these things than to have been abused by them. People always say, “Oh, he must have been abused by a man in a hat!” I say, “He probably never saw, and met, and was given treats from a man in a hat!”
Back to the kids, though. I take every opportunity possible to expose Otto to kids. I carry treats on every walk we take, and if we so much as see a kid at a distance, I practically make it rain hot dogs. “Oh, Otto! Look, kids! Good boy! We love kids, don’t we?”
If the kids are interested and (most importantly) under control, I ask them if they would like to give Otto some treats; I ask Otto to sit and offer a paw first, and then he takes the treats very gently. If the kids look impulsive or twitchy, however, I’m quick to keep Otto at a distance, and feed him some treats myself.
Unfortunately, my own son is 18 years old, and my closest niece (only one year old) is an hour away; I don’t have the resources for practicing that I used to, in terms of kids I know and can trust to behave around a wary dog. It was so easy when my son was little, and his friends were always over, and we were always going to soccer and baseball games and practice! Kids galore! Now I need to hire some. Or something!
Never get complacent about training The thing is, Otto has been doing so well for so long. He’s got a rock-star, rock-solid recall: fast, enthusiastic, completely trusting that coming to me right away is the most fun thing ever. It practically brings tears to my eyes, it’s so pretty. I can (and have) called him away from a running feral cat, a skunk (eating a bowl of cat food left out for said feral cats), and even a loose dog that started chasing us. (Otto started to hold his ground, but the dog looked scary, and I thought we’d be better off farther from what appeared to be the dog’s home. And sure enough, he stopped chasing us after half a block.)
Yes, in each of the cases where his recall was tested, I was walking with Otto off-leash. We can do that in our tiny town in the off-hours; we rarely see anyone else on the streets or trails before 7 a.m. and after about 8 p.m. It’s quiet, there is no traffic, but mostly we can do this because we practiced, practiced, practiced that whole first year we were together. We practiced recalls in the yard, we added distractions (another person bouncing a ball, say), and then we moved to a neighborhood park on a long-line. When Otto’s recall was solid on a long-line in the park (and no one was around) I’d take off the long-line and practice some more. Then we started the process on trails. We’ve built that recall brick by brick.
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He failed – that is, I failed – only twice that I remember. In each case, I raised the criteria too soon; I expected him to resist temptations that he hadn’t had much practice resisting, and I didn’t have a long-line on him to prevent him from being rewarded by the fun of his misadventure. (Both times, he was off-leash and spotted a feral cat alongside the trail. The cats were safe; they dive into a blackberry bramble that only tiny animals can get in and out of.)
After each failure, we had to do a lot of remedial work on that section of trail. At first we worked on a short leash, and I gave him an “Off!” cue, to get him to look away from the cats (or the places where the cats usually hang out) and look at me. I marked (with a clicker or a verbal “Yes!”) and gave him delicious treats each time he looked at me. Soon, I no longer had to cue the “Off!” He would glance toward the cats, and then look at me, knowing he had earned a treat. He really liked chasing the cats the two times that he was able to, so he’s never going to be a dog who will pass by the cats while staring at me fixedly, like a dog in an obedience show ring. But he just glances, and then looks at me for his treat. And I think that as long as it continues to be more rewarding for him to pass the cats than it is to chase them, he’ll resist.
We walk a lot – if not daily, then at least several times a week. So it’s no wonder that his on-leash and off-leash walking skills are so good. But kids! We need more work with kids. I’m not sure what we’re going to do about that. I do my best to take advantage of the chance meetings we have with kids in public, but I just don’t have regular access to some reliable kid volunteers.
Whiffed the woof Back to the woof. As I said, I wasn’t looking at Otto when I heard him bark at something at the dog park; I turned around to see him trotting away from a young boy. His tail was wagging, but he looked a little alarmed. The boy, too, looked uncertain for about a second, and then he ran off in pursuit of another dog. Although Otto was already coming toward me, I called him and gave him a treat, then snapped his leash on and asked him to sit. Then I looked to see who was with the boy. It wasn’t that hard; his dad was retrieving the boy from chasing another dog.
I approached them to a distance of about 10 feet, and said, “I’m sorry, I didn’t see what happened when my dog barked at your son. Is he okay?” I could see that he was okay, but I was curious to get some information about what exactly had transpired. The dad said, “He’s fine. He was just running up to your dog and it looked like your dog got scared.”
I said, this time to the boy, “Yeah, buddy, sometimes dogs are scared of kids! Next time, maybe you should hold still and let the dog come up to you! That way you won’t scare him. You know, sometimes scared dogs bite!” And then, because I could see that the boy was already losing interest in this conversation, I said, “Do you want to see Otto do some tricks? And you can throw him some cookies when he does his tricks?”
I asked Otto to sit and stay, and approached the boy, handing him a few cookies. Then I stepped back over to Otto and told him, “Down.” “Okay, throw him a cookie!” The cookie didn’t land all that close, but Otto got it. Then I said, “Point your finger at him and say ‘Bang!’” Otto really enjoys this “playing dead” trick. The only problem is getting the “dead” dog to stop wagging his tail and rolling his eyes mischievously. It still delighted the boy, though, and he was happy to toss a few more cookies before we took our leave.
I did what I could to salvage the situation, but really, it was another “fail” for me. I wasn’t watching my dog closely enough to protect him from a situation that had the potential for leading up to a dog bite. I allowed my dog to be approached by something he is afraid of, in a scary way, and to actually become scared enough to give a warning woof. Talk about “past threshold!”
So, like I did after my off-leash training failures, I’m going to have to find some kids and that I can instruct so I can set up some remedial socialization sessions for Otto.
Does this sound like I’m taking all this too seriously? When I was a kid, nobody talked about “socializing” their dogs, and most of the dogs we knew were just fine with kids. What’s the big deal? At risk of sounding old, when I was a kid, it was a different world. The only dogs I knew who weren’t free to run around my rural neighborhood were either hunting dogs or watchdogs; kids knew not to fool around with any of those dogs. And all the ones running loose in the neighborhood (the ones that weren’t hit by cars!) were extremely “good with kids.” That’s because they were constantly exposed to kids!
I want my dog to be as rock-solid with kids – and every other type of person – as he is at resisting the urge to chase cats. So we’re going to have to practice.
Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ. She adopted Otto from a shelter on June 13, 2008.
It’s that time of year again – when news reports start coming out of dogs dying after swimming in or drinking from ponds, lakes, and reservoirs polluted with toxic blue-green algae. The component of the algae that produces toxins is called cyanobacteria.
Three dog deaths in July have been attributed to toxic algae at Grand Lake St. Marys in Ohio, but the problem can occur anywhere. In past years, reports of toxic algae blooms have ranged from California to Maine, and Canada to Florida, as well as the UK.
Blue-green algae thrive in warm, shallow water. While algae may be present throughout the year, it is only when there is an extensive “bloom” that problems occur. Most blooms occur in late summer or early fall, but they can occur earlier as well, particularly when the weather is unusually warm and dry. Toxic algae can be blue, bright green, brown, or red.
Signs of toxicity in dogs may start with lethargy, followed by vomiting and diarrhea. Tremors and seizures can occur almost immediately. Additional signs range from excess salivation, skin irritation, and pale gums to severe respiratory, circulatory, or neurological disorders. Convulsions and death can occur as little as four hours after exposure. Treatment may include fluids to prevent dehydration, diazepam (Valium) to control seizures, atropine to counteract the poison, charcoal to absorb toxins from the stomach, and adrenaline to help counteract respiratory failure.
Prevention is the best course of action. Keep your dogs away from stagnant water in warm weather, particularly if you notice any of the following:
The water looks like green paint or pea soup, or is cloudy with a green, yellow, or blue-green hue.
It smells swampy or musty.
You see what looks like foam, scum, or mats on top of the water.
If contact occurs, prevent your dog from licking his feet or coat, and wash him off thoroughly with clean water as soon as possible. If you suspect problems, contact your vet immediately. If your dog becomes ill, be sure to notify authorities so that warning signs can be posted to protect other pets and people.
San Francisco Bay Area resident Mary Straus has spent more than a decade investigating and writing about canine health and nutrition topics for her website, DogAware.com.
There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. Here’s what you can do when your dog jumps on people:
Manage. When you know your dog is likely to have trouble controlling himself, put his leash on before he can jump on someone. When you see the jumping-up gleam in his eye, restrain him to prevent the reinforcement he gets from the initial contact. Other useful management tools to prevent reinforcement include strategically located tethers, baby gates, doors, exercise pens, and crates.
While visiting my own dog, post-surgery, at a large specialty & emergency veterinary clinic recently, I met a woman and her very sick dog. He had been a patient at the clinic for two days: He was lethargic, not eating, and running a high fever. The diagnosis? An adverse reaction to vaccination.
It turns out the woman had adopted the dog, who was probably two or three years old, a year prior. With a year gone by, it was time to take her dog to the veterinarian for a checkup. The veterinarian wanted to vaccinate the dog; she inquired about running antibody titers instead, and was told “no.”
The clinic proceeded to vaccinate her dog with a 5-in-1 vaccine (distemper, adenovirus, Leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus), the influenza vaccine, and the rabies vaccine, all at the same visit. As the woman related this information to me, she crinkled her nose.
Clearly, her instinct had been that this was unnecessary… that perhaps this was too much. And she did try: she inquired about running an antibody titer test in lieu of vaccinations. But the vet said no.
I don’t know what happened to her dog, whether he made a recovery or not. What I do know is this woman learned a costly lesson, and I can only hope that her dog didn’t pay the ultimate price. It is up to us to advocate for our dogs. If we are uncomfortable about the care a veterinarian proposes, we need to speak up. Particularly in the case of vaccinations, we have lots of leeway in terms of their timing; in most cases, there is no harm in postponing an adult vaccination for a short while.
I am not against vaccinations. But I am against a one-size-fits-all approach to veterinary care. And as long as that attitude exists, it’s more important than ever that we are advocates for our dogs’ health.
The key to bringing a puppy into your home is to think things through well before the big day.
Most people spend months preparing for the arrival of a new baby. They’re just as likely, however, to bring a baby dog home on a whim, without any preparation at all. Small wonder they find themselves playing catch-up for weeks, months, years, or even “getting rid of” the dog as they struggle to recover from the mistakes made in the pup’s formative months. The wise puppy-owner-to-be puts much thought into pre-puppy preparation.
There’s lots of puppy stuff you’ll need to make your puppy comfortable, happy, and successful as he learns to adapt to your alien environment. Here’s a short list to get you started:
Crate – facilitates housetraining and prevents puppy misbehavior.
Puppy pen/exercise pen – expands the “den” concept of a crate to a slightly larger area.
Tether – intended to temporarily restrain a dog for relatively short periods of time in your presence.
Collar, ID tag, leash, and harness
Seat belt – Use a restraint that fastens to your car’s seat belts and your dog’s harness (never a collar).
Clicker – use as a reward marker.
Treats – A clicker, of course, is nothing without an accompanying reward.
Long line – the long line is an ideal tool to help your dog learn to come reliably.
Kong toys – a chew-resistant (not chew-proof), rubber toy with a hollow center.
Balls, interactive toys, fetch toys.
Grooming tools – Choose combs and brushes appropriate for your dog’s type of coat.
House cleaning tools
For more details and advice on pre-puppy prepartion, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Puppy Basics.
Welcome to the new WDJ website! I’m excited about it, and here are the top five reasons why:
All current subscribers who are registered for access to the site (it comes free with your subscription, you just have to register and select a login name and password) can now access ALL of WDJ’s past content. No more paying for that back issue that you loaned to a friend and never got back and now really need!
When you read a current article in the online version, links are provided for past articles that we reference in the text. So, as an example, in our July 2010 issue, we have an article about the Delta Society’s recent decision to disallow raw-fed dogs from its therapy dog programs. In the article, we mention that feeding dogs coconut oil can help inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria in and on that dog, and we reference an exhaustive article we published about the many benefits of coconut oil for dogs: “Crazy About Coconut Oil:How Coconut Oil Benefits Your Dog’s Health,” WDJ October 2005. Voila! In the online version, you can click on a link that will take you to that very article so you can read more about how to find coconut oil, what the best sources are, and more. Links to related items are included with each article.
Searches for back articles are easier than ever. In the “search” box, type key words from the article you’re trying to find or the topic you are interested in. The results will appear in reverse chronological order – most recent ones first – in a list, with the title and first paragraph of the article, and the issue in which the article appeared. Maybe you are looking for a certain article on calendula. You type in “calendula” into the search box. The search returns 26 different articles that mention calendula… But you are looking for an entire feature on the helpful herb, one that ran within the past few years. Well, because the articles are sorted with the most recent first, you can easily see that we’ve run two feature articles on calendula in the past three years: One in April 2008 called “Calendula: Herb of the Year,” and one in February 2007 about “Calendula and its Ability to Treat Your Dog’s Skin Problems.” Note that searches for more common topics may yield a broader range of results. In such cases, you may get better results by using the “Advanced Search” function, entering your terms in the “Exact Phrase” box.
Back issue archive is easier to view, especially for the issues from July 2009 forward. For these most recent issues, a thumbnail of each cover appears. I don’t know about you, but I often remember which issue an article is in from just a glance at the artwork on the cover. Under “Resources” (on each page) click on “Back Issue Archive.” You can click on any cover to see what was in that entire issue.
It’s easier to find the link to the service you need for your subscription, whether you want to know how many issues you have left on your subscription, you need to change the address your subscription is sent to, you need to activate your free online access, or anything else. Click on “customer service,” in the upper right corner, and there are a number of options to click on that should solve any problem you’ve been having.
The primary function of the dog’s hair is as a protective and insulating coating.
But if the eyes are the gateway or the window to the soul, the skin and hair are both gateway and window to the embodiment of an animal’s inner health and well-being. Shiny hair, that is, a hair coat that exudes a healthy and lustrous sheen, is an indicator of overall health of the animal. In contrast, a dull coat that lacks luster is an indicator that the animal isn’t as healthy as she could be.
Changes in the texture or appearance of a dog’s coat are an indicator of something going amiss within, but haircoat changes are not specific for any one disease or condition. Dull or brittle hair can be caused by a dietary imbalance, or it may be due to diseases of digestive, hepatic, renal, thyroidal, immune, or parasitic origin. Alterations of hair typically appear rather late in the course of the disease, as hair growth is rather slow; it usually takes at least four weeks of disease progress before changes are noticeable in the hair. And it typically takes four or more weeks before a dietary supplement will have any positive effects on the quality of the hair.
For more information on what your dog’s skin and coat are telling you, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Healthy Skin & Coat.
I’m a huge fan of the Tour de France. I install cable every July just so I can spend every early morning for almost a month watching dramatic racing as well as absolutely stunning aerial views of France (and sometimes the neighboring countries that the race visits).
But there is one sad certainty of every Tour: At some point, a leashless dog runs across the road, right in front of the racers.
Sometimes the dog gets hit, but more often, it’s the bicycle racers themselves that take the brunt of the accident as they swerve and hit the brakes. They fly through the air at high speed, hitting the pavement with gruesome injuries. Almost always, the dog walks away in one (although bruised) piece. The real victims are the hopes and dreams and a year of training for the riders who are injured badly enough to have to quit the race.
This year’s first canine-caused accident happened on the first stage of the Tour. At kilometer 55 (of 223 total kilometers, or more than 138 miles), a dog that appeared to be a small Golden Retriever ran out into the road just in front of the peloton, or main group of riders, who were traveling at about 23 miles an hour. Boom! Riders went down, shaken, bruised, and scraped. The announcers said later that the dog was okay.
This year’s first Tour/dog incident made me wonder: Why do people bring dogs to crowded, hot, loud, stress-packed places? And why don’t people leash their dogs in such a place?
It also makes me want to remind people of the importance of teaching their dogs an emergency recall – and practicing it frequently, keeping their dog’s response fresh and sharp. In almost every Tour de France dog crash I’ve ever seen (in seven years of fandom), the camera catches sight of the dog about three seconds before the cyclists come into contact – and the dog is invariably wearing the international posture and expression of “Uh oh, I’m in trouble with my owner.” At this point, you know that the owner just noticed the dog on the road, has bellowed the dog’s name, and maybe even made one final dog-handling error: he or she is dashing toward to the dog in an effort to grab it. When a dog looks like this (lowered ears, head, and body; tail tucked), it doesn’t matter if he’s running away from his owner, apprehensive about a potential imminent punishment, or is slinking fearfully toward his owner; the fact is, he’s not doing the one thing that could save him from getting hit by a speeding cyclist: running keenly and speedily toward his owner and off the road. Short of a leash (duh), only a well-honed emergency recall can prevent canine and cyclist carnage.
For more in building a better recall, see the following Whole Dog Journal articles:
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
