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An Observation Technique That Will Improve Your Dog Training

How well do you really know your dog? Like most trainers and competitors, Nancy Tanner of Bozeman, Montana, assumed she knew hers inside out – until some whales and their trainers taught her an important lesson. You too can adopt the simple technique she learned at a marine mammal park to improve canine interactions at all levels.

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Tanner’s path of discovery began five years ago at Sea World in San Diego, California, where she took a behind-the-scenes tour.

“I chose ‘Lunch with the Orca Trainers,’ and it changed my whole approach to training,” she says. “In addition to enjoying great food, I got to watch the whales and ask questions. Sea World’s training program is impressive, but what they require from their trainers in knowledge, observation, and applied skills is even more so. I came away realizing that I might not know my dogs as well as I thought.”

What caught Tanner’s attention was the whales’ “free-time pool.” In this large, safe, comfortable environment, whales do whatever they like. Sometimes the pool is occupied by a single whale and sometimes by two or more. Trainers are always present but they never initiate activity. They simply watch and wait.

Occasionally the trainers add interactive objects such as beach balls, chunks of ice, or a bird kite on a tall pole. If a whale jumps for the kite the way orcas in the wild leap at low-flying birds, the trainer can acknowledge this with a whistle, but that is all. Shaping and luring are not allowed. If the whale initiates play, the trainer plays the whale’s game and does whatever that particular whale likes best, such as scratching his tongue, pouring water into his mouth, or throwing ice balls into his mouth. There are no food rewards. The free-time pool is used to build the trainer/animal bond but the two interact only if the whale wants to. The pool is never used for active training.

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Tanner, who runs workshops and competes with her own dogs in agility and canine freestyle, thought for weeks about what free-time insights might contribute to her dog training. She started practicing what she calls “Observation Without Direction.”

“I wanted to come into my dogs’ world and learn by following their lead, not mine,” she says. “So I started to plan a free time routine by replicating, as much as possible, the whales’ free-time pool.”

This was at first a challenge because most of the areas she and her dogs visited were associated in some way with training. “I realized that my house, yard, and training field wouldn’t work for this project at all,” she says, “and what I had thought of as ‘free time’ while hiking actually involved working with my dogs the whole time.”

Tanner decided to look for an area she had never used for training. “It had to have boundaries for safety,” she says, “so that I would never have to call or correct them. No other dogs could be present except my own and no other people unless they were family. There could also not be any large distractions that would reward the dogs in a big way. Small self-rewards would be fine. In addition to being safe and free from distractions, it had to be a dog-friendly environment.”

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She chose a trail that has streams and trees with a steep drop on one side, a steep hill on the other, and a large meadow at the end.

“We go once or twice a week,” says Tanner. “I have no rules when we get out on this specific remote trail. The dogs can sniff, run, sit, follow, or do whatever they like. It’s up to them. I don’t bring food or toys. If they pick up a stick and initiate a game with me, I play fetch with the stick. If they play their I-am-going-to-lie-down-and-stalk-you hide-and-seek game, I will pop behind a tree and play. I initiate nothing. This free time is on their terms. We usually go for half an hour to two hours, depending on my day.”

What The Dogs Did

What did Tanner’s dogs show her, and how has Observation Without Direction changed their training?

“There is trust and relationship on both ends now,” she says. “When my dogs and I work, they are way more engaged. Our relationship isn’t just about what I want to do and the dogs doing learned behaviors. It’s about them taking part in my interests and me taking part in theirs. It is important to note that free time is not putting a dog in the backyard and then going inside to cook dinner. The trainer is working hard by observing and being attentive and intentional. There is a simple bit of magic to watching dogs and really being observant.”

Tanner’s dogs are very different from each other, and now their differences define her approach to training.

“Story is an amazing dog,” she says of her six-year-old Border Collie. “Honest and balanced is the best way to describe him. He enjoys dogs, people, work, play, and eating. He is a dog’s dog. What free time showed me was that he is inventive and all about ‘the game.’ He is always thinking up new games and keeping things light and fun. If he had a motto it would be, ‘Walk lightly and carry a big stick; fetch is way more fun that way.’”

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While Story has always been a willing partner, Tanner never felt that she was tapping into all of him. “He was almost too polite,” she says. “Through free time I observed that he liked to keep the party going. He was always inventing new games with either me or the other dogs. His self-reward is sharing his enthusiasm for games and including those around him. I have never observed him playing a game by himself. He always wants to include others. This was very cool for me as I knew how I could use this in training. Lightbulb!”

Tanner turned Story’s training into a big game, and this approach has made them partners in competition and in life. “There is no leader or owner. We come at it together. Whether it is freestyle, agility, hiking, or fun tricks, his pay-off is the interaction of the game. It also holds me accountable for being there 100 percent when I step out with him. There is no half way in anything we do together.”

Ocean, an eight-year-old Border Collie/Australian Shepherd, was a shy puppy. “At seven weeks,” says Tanner, “she was spooky and cautious. I worked for years building her confidence slowly but consistently through tricks, play with a purpose, agility, freestyle, and herding. Dog sports are where she shines because it is all work. Working became her safe place.

“Ocean is an amazing competition dog and loves to learn new things, but what I discovered through free time is that she did not have confidence outside of working. She did not want to explore or interact with the environment without my direction and was unsure of making choices on her own. It took her a year or two to leave me during free time, but once she started trying new things (digging, rolling in scat, exploring streams) all on her own, I saw another layer to my dog and watched her confidence grow. She is learning that choices are good, exploring can be wonderful, and if she needs to check in, I am always there.”

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The first time Ocean felt comfortable enough to walk away from Tanner, she found elk scat and enjoyed herself immensely. She had never before shown any interest in scat, but after that experience, she sat taller and walked with all four paws solidly on the ground.

“This was a breakthrough for us,” says Tanner. “To this day she rolls in elk, deer, and coyote scat with gusto, and you cannot diminish her enthusiasm afterwards. While she will always have some cautiousness, she has more balance than ever before. In agility I let her decide whether she wants me close or needs more distance. In freestyle, if she renegotiates the path, we go with it. She is amazing and one of the most fun dogs to work with!”

Franny, an 11-year-old mixed breed, had low motivation for training and was never interested in human-directed activity. “Nothing got her involved,” says Tanner. “Tricks, agility, play with a purpose, fetch, tug, none of this was of interest to her, even in small spurts. She would patiently watch me go through my motions and slowly walk away. She showed zero interest even when I tried to hand her a steak.”

During free time, Tanner observed that Franny had stealth hunting skills, that her prey drive was alive and well, and her motivation was high. “She was focused and tenacious, so I brought this into her training. I would ask her for one small thing, maybe come to me in the house, and then say YES! and throw a meatball across the room. The reward of orienting, stalking, chasing, catching, and eating the meatball made a powerful impact on our training and relationship. I found a way to reach her through what she found highly rewarding. She is almost 12 now and still enjoys learning new things. I adore working with her.”

$eeker, a three-year-old Border Collie, has always lacked dog social skills and is more interested in people.

“In free time,” says Tanner, “I learned that $eeker is a mimic, and this caught me totally by surprise. He doesn’t just follow the lead of my other dogs, he copies what they are doing. I found this interesting because he lacks the ability to read canine social cues, so it was almost as if he was ‘trying’ through imitating. I noticed that if Ocean rolled in something, he did it next to her. If Story runs circles, he runs circles, too. If Franny was licking her paws, he would lick his paws, too. If Ocean marked, he would mark.

“I started bringing one of my other dogs when working with $eeker. For example, if I was chaining a complicated sequence, I would work with Ocean and then $eeker, and flip back and forth. He caught on faster this way than if I worked him by himself.”

Putting the Plan Into Action

As soon as she felt confident describing Observation Without Direction and the benefits of free-time training, Nancy Tanner began sharing her insights in workshops, online forums, and seminars. It didn’t take long for the technique to change canine lives.

Katie Tracanna lives in Dennis, Massachusetts, with six dogs. One of them, a six-year-old Shepherd/Border Collie named Wiley Coyote, competes with her in musical freestyle, trains for rally competition, makes therapy dog visits, and is an enthusiastic running partner.

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After she discovered Tanner’s ideas in an online workshop, Tracanna found a perfect free-time location at the beach. “You have to walk a ways to get to the spot,” she says, “but when you do, you’re surrounded by sea grass, sand, and the ocean. It’s a perfect place for free time with Wiley because I can see for a mile in all directions, so I don’t have to worry about anyone approaching when I want to just let him ‘be.’ And that’s what we do when we reach this spot. Wiley makes the rules. He can engage with me, swim, run the beach, and basically do whatever he wants for as long as we’re out there.

“Usually, he entertains himself for a few minutes and then starts engaging me in some sort of game, which could be chase, digging in the sand where I’m sitting, running around in a large circle, or a ‘bash brothers’ game where he likes to slam into me like a wrestler. We’ve modified these games to include in our training sessions as rewards, and they’ve helped build our bond because there are no limitations. It’s just us being in the moment together, cueing off each other and having fun.”

In Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada, retired dog judge Sue Ailsby has shared her life with Chihuahuas, Miniature Schnauzers, MinPins, Australian Cattle Dogs, Portuguese Water Dogs, and 17 generations of Giant Schnauzers. A trainer and competitor, her main interests are research, learning, teaching, bonding, and refining skills in service dog training, conformation, obedience, rally, agility, sled racing, scent hurdle racing, tracking, nose work, treiball, herding, carting, duck hunting, and tracking.

“I was taught as a child that the dog is my enemy,” she says, “and both his mind and body must be mastered. When I realized that the dog should be, at worst, a junior partner, it changed everything. Having a friend doesn’t mean imposing my own opinions on that friend, always doing what I want to do. If you’re going to be friends, you have to honor the other person’s opinions and let her choose. It’s the same with dogs. Giving the dog respected downtime hugely increases the bond and the dog’s desire and willingness to work for and with me.”

When she first read Tanner’s comments about the free-time pool, where the whales can do whatever they want and nothing is required of them, Ailsby says the idea hit her over the head like a sledgehammer.

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“It’s true that Scuba and Stitch, my Portuguese Water Dogs, can usually choose to interact with me, but I don’t usually choose to reciprocate. My dogs know that when I’m working on the computer, they might get a momentary tug or a ball-toss out of me, but after that I give them the ‘leave me alone, I’m working’ hand signal. When I’m talking on the phone, I’ll probably pet them, but not tug or toss. When I’m doing chores, they follow me around and get in my way, but all I’m doing with them is getting them out of my way without kicking them in the head. When I’m lying down, they can jump on the bed, but they have to lie down.

“I realized that I have no trouble being ‘present’ when training – training makes the whole rest of the world go away – but there was no time when I was in the dog’s world. That night Stitch and I went to the guest room in the basement to see what she would like to say to me when I’m actually listening.”

Now, says Ailsby, the dogs have faith that when they speak, she will listen. “This makes all training, as well as living with the dogs, easier because the dogs no longer think or behave as if they need to ‘shout’ at me to have me hear them. I recommend Observation Without Direction and free-time sessions to everyone who wants better, closer relationships with their dogs.”
 
Freelance writer CJ Puotinen lives in Montana, where she enjoys observing Chloe (her Labrador Retriever) and Seamus (her husband’s Cairn Terrier) in the great outdoors. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Specialty Dog Food kings

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I don’t think any pet food company has taken the “specialty diet” concept farther than Royal Canin, who has developed foods for dogs of every size, age, and condition, and even a few specific breed varieties. Here’s a list of its dry foods for toy and small breeds; no wonder people are confused about what to buy!

-MINI Puppy 33 (small breed puppies 2 to 10 months)

-MINI Indoor Puppy 27 (small breed indoor puppies, weaning to 10 months)

-MINI Adult 27 (small breed dogs, 10 months to 8 years)

-MINI Toy Adult Indoor 25 (indoor toy breeds – up to 6 lbs — over 8 months)

-MINI Babydog 30 (small breed puppies, weaning to 8 weeks)

-MINI Special 30 (small breed adults with “sensitive stomachs or fussy appetites”)

-MINI Weight Care 28 (small breed adult dogs, overweight)

-MINI Dental Hygiene 24 (small breed adult dogs with “oral sensitivities”)

-MINI Beautycare 26 (small breed adult dogs, with “skin & coat sensitivities”)

-MINI Aging Care 27 (small breed adult dogs over 8 years)

-Chihuahua Puppy 30 (Chihuahua puppies from 8 weeks to 8 months)

-Chihuahua 28 (Chihuahuas over 8 months)

-Shih Tzu 24 (Shih Tzus over 10 months)

-Yorkshire Terrier Puppy 29 (Yorkshire Terrier puppies from 8 weeks to 10 months)

-Yorkshire Terrier 28 (Yorkshire Terriers over 10 months)

That’s 15 dry food products for toy and small dogs! The company also offers 7 dry varieties for medium size dogs (21 to 55 pounds) including 2 breed-specific formulas; 13 varieties for “maxi” dogs (56 to 100 pounds) including 6 breed-specific formulas; and 1 variety for giant adult dogs (more than 100 pounds).

And this doesn’t even address its veterinary diets! Royal Canin offers a line of “Early Care” diets purported to prevent disease in dogs that are predisposed to certain conditions: obesity, and gastrointestinal and osteoarticular conditions; skin problems, and urinary stones. The Early Care diets are combined with the dog’s age and size factors for 7 different products. Then there are what it calls the “Therapeutic Diets” – in all, some 26 dry foods that purport to address weight control; diabetes; allergies; reduced mobility; cardiac, gastrointestinal, liver, kidney, skin, and dental problems; and two foods for helping dogs who are prone to developing urinary stones: Urinary SO 14 (for dogs prone to struvite crystals) and Urinary UC 18 (for dogs prone to urate, cystine, and/or xanthine crystals). Royal Canin also lists a vegetarian formula among its therapeutic diets.

I’m not a math wizard, but I think that’s 70 dry diets; I won’t go into the wet foods!

An Education in Specialty Dog Foods

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It’s a very tempting concept – that a perfect food for every dog exists out there, somewhere. It must be tempting, because the pet food manufacturers keep increasing the number of products they formulate and market toward the owners of dogs of a progressively narrow description. Seriously – there are foods labeled for large breed seniors, and indoor toy puppies. There are foods that are supposedly just right for Spaniels, for goodness’ sakes!

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Decades ago, there was just dog food; eventually, versions of commercial foods for puppies were introduced to the market with great success – perhaps because of the introduction of commercial baby foods in the same historical period! Today we are supposed to choose among foods for dogs who are young, old, active, sedentary, fat, thin, big, and small; there are foods supposedly formulated especially for dogs who live indoors! And this is not even mentioning the plethora of products (prescription or over-the-counter) that are supposed to address the problems a dog might have with his skin, coat, digestion, urinary tract, or joints.

Here’s the thing: Much of what you’re paying for with most – but not all! – of these foods is marketing. Some specialty foods are only marginally different from each company’s regular adult dog food; others deviate from the regular formula significantly, but without consistency across the specialty. For example, some pet food companies formulate their “senior” diets with higher protein levels than their “adult” dog foods; some formulate their senior foods with protein levels that are dramatically lower than their adult foods.

How can you tell whether your dog’s specialty food is really all that special? As always, you have to look past the marketing and disregard the illustrations on the label; it’s the ingredients and the guaranteed analysis of the food you need to examine. And in the long run, it’s the food’s actual performance in your dog that counts; if your dog doesn’t look and feel like a million bucks, you should probably change foods.

Protein and Fat

The principal factors that are manipulated to formulate foods targeted toward the primary dog food categories – puppies, adults, and seniors – are protein and fat. One thing is certain: puppies need more protein and fat in their diets than adult dogs. After that fact, things get a bit contentious.

The micronutrient (vitamin and mineral) needs of puppies, adults, and senior dogs are not very different, except that puppies also need more calcium and phosphorus than adult dogs.

Puppy vs. Adult Food

In this country, the commonly accepted set of nutritional standards for the production of commercial pet food are known as the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles. AAFCO is the Association of American Feed Control Officials, an advisory committee comprised of the state feed control officials (the only voting members) as well as interested representatives from the pet food industry – ingredient suppliers, manufacturers, food laboratories, and so on. Sub-committees study particular subjects of interest, such as the nutrient profiles for dogs and cats, and make suggestions for changes when new studies suggest change may be beneficial; this happens only after a great deal of data supports the change, and usually, after a lot of debate.

The AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles list minimum amounts (and a few maximum amounts) of all the nutrients that are currently known to be required by dogs; there is a column of numbers for adult dog maintenance, and one for “growth and reproduction,” that is, puppies and pregnant or nursing females.

The minimum amount of protein and fat suggested in these profiles for adult dog maintenance is 16.2 percent and 4.5 percent respectively. The minimum percentage for protein and fat for puppies (“growth and reproduction”) is 19.8 percent and 7.2 percent.

(Note: All percentages in this article are expressed “as fed.” The AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles list the numbers in what’s called the “dry matter” form, that is, with the water in the food removed. We’ve converted the numbers so they are comparable to the number on dog food labels, which are “as fed,” or including the moisture in the food. 

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If the food label says it’s a puppy food, it’s for sure using the “growth and reproduction” values. If the label says it’s for adult dogs, it’s probably using the AAFCO values for adult dog maintenance.

Look for the AAFCO statement, somewhere in tiny print on the bag. It could say either something like, “Food X provides complete and balanced nutrition for maintenance of adult dogs,” in which case it’s been formulated with the “adult maintenance” values. However, it might say something like, “Food X provides complete and balanced nutrition for dogs of all life stages,” in which case, it’s using the “growth and reproduction” values.

This is why you have to look closely at the label; many foods that are labeled as for “adult” dogs are relatively low in protein and fat. Foods that are labeled as being for dogs in “all life stages” will almost always contain higher levels of protein and fat.

Puppies Shouldn’t Have “Too Much”

You may have noticed that the word “maximum” hasn’t come up. The AAFCO nutrient profiles list maximum values for only calcium and phosphorus (too much can adversely affect the development of the puppy’s skeleton, with life-long consequences); and the nutrients that can cause toxicity at excessive levels, such as the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, and E; and the minerals magnesium, iron, zinc, iodine, selenium, copper.

That doesn’t mean that more of everything else is better. While top-quality dog foods tend to have higher levels of protein and/or fat than their low-cost, low-quality counterparts, puppies shouldn’t ever be fed in such a way that they become fat or experience abnormally fast growth spurts. Despite our cultural fondness for roly-poly puppies, healthy puppies are lean and grow at a consistent, slow rate. Ideally, owners weigh their puppies frequently, and decrease either the pup’s rations or his total caloric intake if he’s getting too chubby or growing too tall too fast.

Senior and Weight Control Diets

Poor old dogs! There is perhaps more variation in the amount of macronutrients in senior diets than in any other category of dog food. Keep in mind that there are no commonly accepted nutrient levels for anything other than adult maintenance and “growth and reproduction” –there are no AAFCO values for old dogs. Each pet food manufacturer has its own ideas about what senior dogs need. In fact, it turns out that most people have different ideas about what old dogs need.

A fascinating study was published recently in the International Journal of Applied Research in Veterinary Medicine demonstrating that the majority of people surveyed (84.5% of more than 1,300 respondents) believe that senior dogs have different nutritional needs than adult dogs. Further, most respondents indicated that senior dog diets should contain reduced levels of calories, protein, fat, and sodium, and contain increased amounts of fiber. Talk about projection!

The fact is, due to any number of factors (including decreased appetite, changes in their ability to taste or smell, difficulty chewing, and/or underlying disease), many dogs lose weight (specifically, the nice lean muscle mass that they need for getting around) in their “golden” years. Many studies have shown that senior dogs actually have higher protein requirements than younger dogs; if you put a lean senior dog on a low-protein, low-fat diet, you are asking for severe weight loss and infirmity.

But many pet food makers seem to assume that all old dogs get fat, and frequently, there is little or no difference between a company’s “senior diets” and their “weight management” diets. That’s one of the reasons that so many senior diets contain less fat than adult foods. (Remember, each gram of fat – any kind of fat – contains about 9 calories. A gram of any kind of protein or any kind of carbohydrate contains about 4 calories.)

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Following the same “fat old dog” logic, some senior dog foods also contain high levels of fiber, in an attempt to “fill up” those “fat old dog.” Unfortunately, the more (inexpensive) fiber in a formula, the less room there is for more nutritious –and equally caloric – protein. Ugh! Why would they do that? Both because it’s more profitable, and because they can; dog owners who buy the least expensive foods won’t necessarily notice that their “old” dogs are prematurely aging due to poor nutrition.

However, not all senior foods are like this; some companies formulate their products with moderate levels of protein and fat. How can you tell? You have to look at the label! Look at the amounts of protein and fat in the food; you know the minimum levels for adult dogs (16.2 and 4.5 percent, respectively). You’d want to see a protein level well above the minimum, and a fat level that is at least a bit above the minimum – more for a thin dog, or one whose coat and skin are dry.

The same goes for “weight control” diets. Most contain the absolute minimum of fat (and often low levels of protein, too) and lots of fiber. Again, since protein and carbs contain the same number of calories per gram, we’d rather see a chubby dog eating a diet containing a lower-fat, diet with a moderate amount of nutritious (and biologically appropriate) protein, than a lower-fat, low-protein, diet that necessarily contains a high amount of less-nutritious carbs.

As always, look also for high-quality sources of protein high on the ingredient list, such as chicken, chicken meal, pork, pork meal, etc;, rather than chicken by-product meal or corn.

The Starting Point

It’s the most common question we receive: What should I feed my dog? What people often forget when they ask us to tell them which food they should feed their dogs is that their dogs are already eating something. How does the dog look and feel now? If he looks and feels great, you may well be doing just fine with your selections! But if he’s thin and run down (or fat and lethargic); if his coat is dull and/or his skin is dry; if he’s often ill (or in an ugly “mood”), take a look at the protein and fat levels in his food – and look for a food with more. More protein or more fat? Yes! How much more? Well, it depends on how much you are already feeding him, and on the quality of the proteins and fats. (For more about recognizing the hallmarks of quality foods, please see “Choices, Choices,” our review of dry dog foods, in the February 2011 issue.)

If it turns out that the food you have been feeding your dog contains close to the minimum amounts of either protein or fat, consider looking for a food that boosts those numbers by at least 5 or even 10 percent. See how he responds. If he does better, consider boosting those levels a bit with an even better product with the next bag, until he seems to attain a healthy weight and condition.

If the food is a high-quality product (it meets Whole Dod Journal’s dog food selection criteria, as described annually in the February issue) and contains relatively high protein and fat levels and your dog is still too-thin or suffers from any sort of skin or coat problem or low energy, I’d first schedule a visit to the vet for a checkup, and then try another high-quality food, perhaps one with different protein, fat, and carbohydrate sources.

No Holy Grail

Please don’t forget that there is no single right and best food for your dog, or any dog. In fact, it’s a good idea to change your dog’s food at least a few times a year; no dog should be fed the same diet for months and years on end. For one thing, it’s a perfect way to set up your dog for developing an allergy to the ingredients in that food; most commonly, dogs with food allergies develop those allergies after long-term, continuous exposure to the ingredients in their daily food.

Also, nobody’s perfect. Personally, we don’t trust any one product to provide the precise amount of every nutrient our dogs receive – every vitamin and every mineral, in the exact same, unchanging amounts and proportions – for years on end? If this was the best way to nourish an animal, why do human nutrition experts recommend a varied diet?

Next month, we’ll examine the dog food diets designed for dogs of certain breeds and sizes, as well as the so-called therapeutic diets and their close counterparts, “prescription” diets.

Nancy Kerns is the Editor of WDJ. Her mixed-breed dog, Otto, eats a different kind of food at the end of every bag.

Rescue or Buy?

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Some months ago, I received a note from a subscriber that was titled, “Why I’m buying my next dog at the mall.” At first, I thought it was a joke. Then I read the rest and realized that the writer was perfectly serious. He described what had happened when he, as a first-time dog owner in his 40s, decided to get a dog.

Nancy Kerns

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He researched dogs in general, went to dog shows, spoke to lots of people, did online research, and decided on a breed that he admired. Though a novice dog owner, he determined that the “right” thing to do was to look in shelters and breed rescues to find a dog of the breed of his choice. 

Next he wrote to the contact person for a breed rescue in his part of his state. He was given an application to fill out and return; he says “it was several pages long and asked for information I don’t usually give to strangers, but what the hell. It’s been years and I’ve never heard back. Presumably, I wasn’t selected.”

In the meantime, a coworker recommended a shelter. He found a dog there that he bonded with, filled out an application, and was interviewed.

To make a long story short, it developed that the dog had some medical problems. The shelter offered to have the dog seen by the veterinarian who had performed what seemed to the owner as a botched spay surgery, he declined, and took his new dog to another vet. About $1,000 later, she was better, and today the guy is totally in love with the dog.

Here’s the part that kills me. “Since then, I found a puppy store at the (name redacted) Mall. I am certain that anyone who visits this pet store, inspects the dogs, talks to the employees, and compares the cleanliness and vibe to a breeder or shelter, will easily understand why I am buying my next dog at the mall. And the price is half what my shelter dog cost me. I know pet stores that sell puppies are considered to be the scum of the universe, but my experience suggests reality is more complex.”

We ended up having quite a lengthy email exchange. I congratulated him for adopting from a shelter. I deplored the fact that he never heard back from the rescue, but explained that volunteers in rescue are frequently exhausted, and that perhaps more persistence would have achieved a better result – although, maybe not. As a novice owner and new to the breed, he may not have sounded like a great candidate for adoption; to some breeders, he may not have even sounded like a good buyer. I also told him that while it may well be easier to buy a puppy mill puppy from a pet store, if no one bought them, the mills wouldn’t exist, and if the puppy mills didn’t exist, there would be far fewer dogs in shelters and rescues.

I’ve seen rescue groups and shelters who, in an effort to find the best possible homes for dogs, make the adoption process quite difficult. Do they realize that this may drive some people to pet stores and quick-buck breeders? And on the other hand, why do so many people have the expectation that they should be able to get a  dog the moment they want one?

Bad News for Dog Owners Looking for Single-Antigen Vaccines

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I have always run titers on my dogs before vaccinating and my vet provided individual doses when required. This year was different. The office manager called and said their practice could no longer provide individual vaccines, as in the past. I vaccinate only for parvo, distemper when titers are low, and rabies. I was quite upset because one of my dogs needed only distemper and my other dog’s titers were good. I posed the question, “Why offer titers, if you are not able to provide individual vaccines? Big silence! Well, I know the answer. The titers are extremely expensive, $200 for parvo and distemper, times two (for two dogs!). It’s great income for the vets!

Dr. Jean Dodds

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I have called all the holistic veterinarians in my area; all of them have only bundled vaccinations. I have surfed the web to find individual vaccines to purchase without luck. This is a huge dilemma and an issue I have been frustrated by for years. Vet students are not taught in school that too many vaccinations assault the dog’s immune system time and time again. Veterinarians turn the other cheek. What is most disturbing and unethical is the vets will happily accept the fee for the titers, but as in my case, don’t provide individual vaccinations when indicated.

I would surely appreciate any resources where I may acquire individual parvo and distemper vaccines.

Thank you for your thoughtful concern regarding this frustrating topic. I have been subscribing to WDJ for years and can’t thank you enough for being the “pioneers” of healthy dog care. Your annual dry and canned food survey is invaluable, as are so many topics each month. I hope you have the resources to help me and my dogs. Until I can find individual vaccinations, I will forgo the vaccines. One of my dogs is 9 and the other 3 years.
-(Name withheld by request)

We asked Dr. Jean Dodds for help on this one. A respected expert on veterinary immunology, she also is the founder of Hemopet, a nonprofit blood bank and laboratory. She wrote:

There is only one source available: The Schering-Plough Galaxy-D (the old Fromm-D vaccine), available from many online veterinary supply stores. By the way, vaccine titers actually cost between $40-60, not $200. Those clinics quoting the much higher price typically do so because they aren’t familiar with the “going rate” and assume that they’re costly – as a sort of dissuasion. Here at Hemopet (hemopet.org) we charge $42 for the paired distemper + parvo vaccine titers. See our “Test Request Form” and price list on the website. 

We sent this information to our reader, and she responded:

I contacted a few online vet supply catalogs, and all of them offer parvo as an individual vaccine, but the distemper is paired with adenovirus vaccine, which I think is unnecessary.

We asked Dr. Dodds to weigh in on the distemper/adenovirus vaccine. She responded:

I wouldn’t prefer this combo, especially when there have been no clinical cases of infectious canine hepatitis in North America for at least 12 years.

Now we were really curious. We called Schering-Plough and asked about the Galaxy-D – and was told that the company had discontinued its production in January. So dog owners seemed to have lost their only option for giving the distemper vaccine alone. (And ferret owners have lost their only source of distemper vaccine for ferrets; the Galaxy-D was reportedly the only effective distemper vaccine for that species.) Dr. Dodds’ final comment and advice?

Darn it! I’d give a distemper/adenovirus Recombitek vaccine – provided that the distemper titer result really is low. This industry sure isn’t helpful for consumers needs – but, of course, sales volume is what determines what we can get.

Letters to the editor can be sent to:

WDJ Editorial Office
1655 Robinson Street
Oroville, CA 95965
or emailed to WDJEditor@gmail.com

Using Dog Poo DNA to Catch Scofflaw Dog Owners

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Visitors to the island of Capri, a gorgeous Italian summer destination for the wealthy, are accustomed to movie star sightings, priceless views of the sparkling sea, over-the-top yachts – and stepping in dog poo? According to recent news reports, Capri’s mayor, Ciro Lembo, says it costs the tiny island in the Gulf of Naples around 5 million euros a year to keep the island clean. “Do you really think we will let the reputation of the island, whose beauty is coveted by the world, be compromised by bodily needs left in the streets by inattentive or arrogant dog owners?” Lembo said in an interview with Adnkronos, an Italian press agency.

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Don’t fear too much for the shoes of the world’s super-rich – Lembo has announced a plan to get to the bottom of the problem. Starting in June, the owners of each canine resident of the island will be required to submit a blood sample from their dogs to the licensing agency; according to La Stampa, one of Italy’s largest daily newspapers, this represents about 1,000 dogs, or one for every six human residents of Capri. When government ecological workers locate dog feces, they will call the police, who will send a sample to a laboratory where DNA will be extracted and compared with the results of the resident dogs’ blood samples. When the culprit is identified, the dog’s owner will be fined up to 2,000 euros. (We wonder: will visitors’ dogs be required to register their DNA at the yacht harbor or helipad?)

The high-tech approach to identifying poop-scoop scofflaws has been tried in other communities around the world. A news search revealed articles about DNA analysis of dog droppings in the town of Hernani, Spain; a high-end condominium complex in Baltimore; and in Petah Tikva, a suburb of Tel Aviv. (The latter city tried a punishment-based (a fine for the owner) and a reward-based program; owners who scooped their dogs’ poop and placed it in specially marked bins on Petah Tikva’s streets were eligible for rewards of pet food coupons and dog toys.)

One company is ready to solve your community’s unscooped dog poop problem: BioVet Pet Lab, of Knoxville, Tennessee. Though the company is better known for its DNA analysis for breed identification for mixed-breed dogs and parentage verification for purebreds, in 2010 it rolled out a new service for communities that are being buried in anonymously abandoned poo. The service is known as the PooPrints Program, and it promises to “match the mess through DNA.”

– Nancy Kerns

For more information:

BioVet Pet Lab, (866) 883-7389;
PooPrints.com

Veterinary and Human Medical Centers Collaborate

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The Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine and Wake Forest University’s Institute for Regenerative Medicine in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, signed an agreement in January to form the Virginia Tech/Wake Forest Center for Veterinary Regenerative Medicine (CVRM).

The goal is to facilitate the use of cutting-edge, regenerative (stem cell) treatments for pets and people. Clinical trials performed at the center will provide valuable information concerning the effects of stem-cell therapy. Doctors will be able to evaluate the results as a model for the treatment of similar diseases in humans.

As part of the collaboration, clients at the Veterinary Teaching Hospital may have the option to enter their pets into clinical trials, giving them access to cutting-edge technology unavailable elsewhere.

Current areas of interest for this research include cardiomyopathy and spay-induced incontinence in dogs, chronic kidney disease in cats, and wound healing in horses. Let’s hope they also investigate the use of regenerative stem cell therapy in the treatment of arthritis, where preliminary results seem promising.

There are many potential applications for collaboration between human and veterinary medicine. In March, I wrote about a veterinary surgeon, a veterinary endocrinologist, and a neurosurgeon at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles who worked together and developed a new surgical technique for treating pituitary tumors that cause Cushing’s disease in dogs (“New Treatment for Pituitary-Dependent Cushing’s Disease”). In September 2009, I wrote about a treatment for brain tumors that was the result of two comparative oncology specialists working together, one a veterinary surgeon and the other the head of his university’s Neurosurgery Gene Therapy Program (“New Therapy for Brain Cancer”).

I applaud this approach to finding new treatments for pets and people. It is so much better to offer clinical trials for pets with diseases that cannot be effectively treated with today’s methodologies, rather than induce illness in laboratory animals in order to try out new treatments. I hope this center becomes a model for other veterinary schools.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine
www.vetmed.vt.edu/news/regenmed.asp

Juneau’s Story – One of The Happiest Deaf Dogs You Could Ever Meet!

Juneau and I have learned a lot together. She came to me at 8 months of age as a well socialized puppy with tons of energy. If I didn’t find things for her to do, she’d find her own things to do. She may only be 12 inches tall, but she still figured out how to get things off of the counter (like an entire pizza).

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She taught me early on to be consistent with my hand signals, and to be careful not to casually use my hands in ways that might be construed as a hand signal. For instance, our hand signal for sit was an open hand, fingers splayed, palm toward her. On walks, she constantly looked for signals that meant she could earn a treat. I started showing her that I didn’t have any treats at the moment by displaying my empty hands (fingers splayed, palms toward her). Shortly thereafter, she started turning away and finding something else to do upon giving her the “sit” cue. It took me a little time to connect the two hand signals. I retrained “sit,” giving it a new hand signal, and vowed to pay closer attention to what I was “saying” to Juneau.

Juneau is very attentive during training, and strives to keep her eyes on what I am doing at all times. “Stay” is not a problem for her when I walk a short distance away, but it’s a challenge for her to hold that stay if I walk behind her. Unfortunately, she hasn’t learned how to turn her head 360 degrees, so she often gets up and turns around to see what I am doing back there. I plan to recruit a helper to reinforce for holding a sit or down while I walk around her.

I have found that keeping an open mind, being consistent, and adhering to positive reinforcement methods of training have built a solid connection between me and each of my dogs, including Juneau.

Why are so many abused dogs so forgiving?

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abused dogs

I was in my local shelter one day when a couple brought in two intact male bully-breed dogs. Both dogs were white, which made it easy to see how filthy they were – and to see their startling wounds. The larger, overweight dog had what may have started as a sunburn and developed into a dermatological condition. But the younger, smaller dog had truly ghastly wounds on his hind legs; it looked as if he had been tied up (or even hung) by ropes around his hind legs. Something had cut into his flesh all the way around each hind leg – but the wounds were not fresh. The wounds were partly scabbed, partly infected and raw, and the dog’s hair bore the traces of a purple over-the-counter “wound” spray. The legs were also swollen and the dog was limping on both legs.

I was discussing another matter with one of the shelter employees, and heard just bits of the conversation between the dogs’ owners and the counter staff. I heard the male owner say, “We were out of town for a day and he got caught in wire; he was caught when we got back.” My blood boiled; those wounds were neither fresh nor caused by a dog caught in wire.

Later, after the dogs were admitted to the shelter, I asked the front counter staff member about the dogs. She said that a county animal control officer received a tip about the dogs, investigated, and told the owners if they did not seek immediate veterinary attention, she was going to charge them with animal cruelty and neglect – or they could surrender the dogs. They said they couldn’t afford to treat the dogs, so they were surrendering them.

Abused Dogs

I borrowed a staffer’s camera so I could take pictures of the dogs. They kept trying to lick me through the cage bars, making it hard to get a good picture. With a kennel worker nearby to help me if need be, I entered the kennel – and both dogs gently bowled me over as they tried getting in my lap for petting and kisses. They were total sweethearts – which made me feel even worse for how poorly they had been treated.

Shelter workers see this again and again. Some of the sweetest, most patient, and overtly loving dogs come in with coats that are matted so severely, it’s as it they are wearing a suit of armor, or their skin full of birdshot pellets, or numerous broken bones.

Why is it that some of the nicest dogs are so badly treated by people? And how do they manage to stay friendly after such abuse and neglect?

(Modifying Aggressive Behavior #3) – Lower Your Dogs Stress Level

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There are a host of other things you can do to lower general stress in your dogs’ environment.

Exercise can be immensely helpful in minimizing overall tension. Physical activity uses up excess energy that might otherwise feed your dogs’ aggressive behaviors, (a tired dog is a well-behaved dog). Exercise also causes your dog’s body to release various chemicals, including endorphins and norepinephrine, helping to generate a feeling of well-being; an exercised dog is a happy dog! Happy dogs are simply less likely to fight.

For more details and advice on modifying dog aggression, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Approaches to Modifying Dog Aggression.

Planet Dog Celebrates 10th Anniversary of Orbee

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When I learned that Planet Dog was releasing a “Special Edition 10th Anniversary Orbee,” my first thought was, “Wow, has it really been 10 years?” The ball still seems new and exciting around Whole Dog Journal’s editorial office.

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I love the Planet Dog products, especially the Orbee, Orbee-Tuff, and Orbee-Tuff RecycleBALL balls. And the company seems pretty cool, too.  It donates 2 percent of each purchase to the Planet Dog Foundation, its nonprofit grant-making organization, which in turn makes grants to service dog and therapy dog organizations. (For the record, my dog Otto prefers the Orbee-tuff RecycleBALLs. Not because he’s so PC – because they are more squishy in the mouth. He’s s squisher: “Squish! Squish!”)

The Orbee was one of the first products of the modern generation of thoughtful, “specially for dogs” dog toys – in contrast to re-purposed kid toys or sports equipment. It’s hollow and globe-like, with rough depictions of earth’s continents appearing in a raised material that helps the ball bounce unpredictably – increasing the fun factor for most dogs. It floats, is durable, nontoxic, made in the USA, recyclable, and 100 percent guaranteed.

Do your dogs like Orbees? (If so, consider entering the “I Love My Orbee So Much Story Contest” on Facebook.) If not, what is his or her favorite toy? We need to review toys again soon.

Excited About a Book on Canine Thyroid Disorders

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I just received an email announcing the publication of a book written by one of Whole Dog Journal’s favorite veterinarians, W. Jean Dodds, founder of Hemopet canine blood bank. Dr. Dodds has long been interested in canine thyroid disorders; years ago, I heard her present a riveting seminar on the topic at one of the annual meetings of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (AHVMA). The book, co-written by Diana Laverdure, is entitled The Canine Thyroid Epidemic: Answers You Need for Your Dog. Orders for the book are being taken by its publisher, Dogwise.com (800-776-2665); the price is $20.

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I haven’t had a chance to read the book yet. The press release from Dogwise describes it like this: “In this valuable new book, Jean and Diana explore why canine thyroid disease is so often misdiagnosed or left untreated. The answer lies in part because the symptoms of canine thyroid disease are so varied (both physical and behavioral) and many vets have not been taught the proper way to test for it. The tragedy in all this is that most thyroid problems can be treated successfully once they are properly diagnosed. This book will arm you with what you need to know about thyroid disease so that you have a much better chance of recognizing it and then how to work with your vet to get the proper treatment. You need to play the role of your dog’s health advocate in any event, but it is very important in situations where thyroid problems are suspected.”

Dr. Dodds was extensively quoted in a Whole Dog Journal article “Help for Hypothyroidism,” about problems caused by low thyroid levels in dogs, way back in the June 2005 issue. That’s a great resource to review (subscribers have free access to all back article, remember!) while you’re waiting for your copy of the new book to arrive!

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