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Dog Teeth Cleaning: Don’t Deny Dental Health

By
Kyle Grusling, DVM
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0

It wasn’t all that long ago that our dogs’ dental health was of little concern to veterinarians. Face-melting halitosis, loose teeth, and even missing teeth were considered part of “growing old.”

Fortunately, progress marches on, and veterinarians today are well aware of the importance of good oral health in dogs. A full oral health assessment is part of every comprehensive physical exam and any veterinarian worth his or her salt performs dental scaling, polishing, and extractions, and knows of a veterinary dental specialist nearby for more complicated problems. While your veterinarian might not have said much about your dog’s teeth 10 years ago, today, it’s likely at the forefront of discussion during your dog’s annual or semi-annual health exam. That doesn’t mean your vet is now a money-grubbing capitalist. It means that veterinarians have learned how important their patients’ dental health is and how better to address it.

Why Dental Health is Important for Dogs

dog broken tooth

One of the most critical things for dog owners to understand is that dental disease affects more than the dog’s mouth. Diabetes, heart disease, and sinus problems can all be affected by problems with the teeth.

We’ve long noticed the link between oral health and diabetes. Diabetic dogs with heavy calculus and periodontal disease are extremely difficult to manage. Without getting the dental disease under control, it’s almost impossible to control the diabetes.

Thickened valve tissue in the heart is a great spot for bacteria to gather, creating a condition called endocarditis. The bacteria that often finds its way there frequently comes from the dog’s mouth.

Small dogs who reverse sneeze or have eye drainage very often have significant sinus inflammation from severe periodontal disease. Our bodies are connected, so problems in one area often affect many others.

Secondly, and perhaps even more critically, dental disease is painful. Often, clients say to me, “He’s still eating, so his mouth is fine.” I take great exception to that! Dogs are animals. This means they cannot talk to us to tell us when something isn’t right. They have evolved quite far from their pre-domesticated days, but they have retained some instinctive behaviors, including the life-driving need to eat! An animal who does not eat will not survive. It’s really that simple. A dog who is eating is not saying, “I’m fine here! Nothing to worry about!” Rather, he is relying on his most basic instinct to survive.

If you’ve ever had a tooth abscess or dental problem, you know just how painful they can be. You probably still ate, drank, slept, went to work, but that didn’t mean you were comfortable! I can’t tell you the number of clients who have called after a dental to tell me that their dog is acting like a puppy again! It’s an amazing change – and horrible to contemplate how they must have hurt before.

Professional Dental Exam and Dog Tooth Cleaning

I love it when a client tells me she brushes her dog’s teeth at home. I even have some clients who can scale their dogs’ teeth at home. What good dogs! This is awesome and will definitely help maintain good hygiene – but that doesn’t mean their dogs will never need a professional cleaning. Only a thorough exam and cleaning by a veterinary professional can guarantee that the dog’s teeth and gums are truly healthy. It’s true that this service is likely to be pricey – at least a few hundred dollars and sometimes much more. What will your dog receive for that money?

To start, your dog will be fully anesthetized with gas anesthesia, a breathing tube, and (usually) IV fluids. Some clinics recommend but charge for the delivery of IV fluids as a separate option. I understand the urge to save money, but as an advocate for my patients, I have to say that this is not a time or place to scrimp. The placement and use of an IV catheter enables the veterinary team to deliver any needed medications to your dog in the fastest way possible. If your dog were to experience any life-threatening complications during his procedures, an IV would be the fastest way to deliver the life-saving drugs that could bring him back from the brink.

dog teeth cleaning
dog teeth cleaning

The IV is also used to deliver pain-control medications to keep your dog comfortable before, during, and after the procedure. (Some other pain-control medications may be administered orally and through local injection.)

During the procedure, a licensed veterinary technician will monitor your dog’s anesthesia, tracking his heart rate, breathing, oxygenation, and blood pressure, making sure your dog is safe.

Dental radiographs (x-rays) are another service that are usually charged separately as an option, but their value is so great that their expense is always worth it. Teeth can look perfectly healthy and also have an abscess lurking at their roots, and this is often revealed only by x-ray. Catching and treating this early can prevent the infection from spreading to the roots of adjacent teeth and compromising their health and stability. Undetected and untreated dental abscesses in the upper teeth can also cause sinus infections and even problems with the dog’s eye – so don’t opt-out of x-rays!

After the radiographs are taken, a technician will scale your dog’s teeth with hand tools and, usually, an ultrasonic scaler as well. Ultrasonic scalers use a high vibrational frequency to crush and remove dental calculus, and actually also create tiny shockwaves that disrupt bacterial cells that contribute to periodontal (under the gum) infections. Finally, ultrasonic scalers use irrigation to wash the periodontal pockets and root surfaces, flushing the bacerial debris away.

As the technician works to remove the tartar above and below the gum line, she will note any deep or infected pockets around the teeth, fractures, or any other problems as she goes. After she’s done with the cleaning, the veterinarian will review her findings and investigate the teeth.

In routine maintenance in a younger dog or in an early phase of dental disease, the teeth are likely to be healthy and the entire procedure will move quickly and smoothly. The result is teeth that look as clean as they did when they first erupted when your dog was a puppy!

Anesthesia-Free Teeth Cleaning

I want to take a minute to discuss anesthesia-free dental care.

At-home brushing, dental additives, and treats that are approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Committee, as well as groomer scaling (non-anesthetic dental scaling) may all have a place in your dog’s life. But anesthesia-free dentistry simply cannot address the vast majority of significant problems that are commonly found in a dog’s mouth. This is because dental disease is like an iceberg: What you see is only a small portion of what’s present. Even if your dog is in the early stages of periodontal disease, only a thorough exam and cleaning under the gum line can save his teeth (and your dollars) down the road.

Unless a dog is fully anesthetized, the cleaning under his gums just cannot be accomplished – not even with the most cooperative dog. Anyone who tells you differently isn’t telling the whole truth about the whole tooth. And sparkling-white tooth-tops aren’t nearly as important as clean surfaces under the gumline. In addition, dental x-rays and antibiotic prescriptions can only come from your veterinarian’s office. Do your dog a favor; engage only veterinarians to provide these critical services.

Finding and Dealing with Dental Problems

In contrast, as dental disease progresses, things start getting more complicated. Addressing any problems that are found requires skill and specialized equipment.

The most common problem encountered is an abscess at the root of a tooth. Depending on the tooth and the dog, the usual recommendation for this situation is extraction (removal). Extracting teeth involves varying degrees of surgery, with the little front teeth (known as incisors) being easiest to remove and the large carnassial teeth being much more complicated. This is where things can get expensive, quickly.

dog with tooth crowning

Dr. Kyle Grusling

Extracting a tooth is not as simple as when you tied a shoelace to a loose tooth as a kid. It involves carefully removing jaw bone to expose all of the roots (up to three!) of a tooth and then sectioning the tooth into pieces for safe removal. Then, the space left behind is frequently packed with bone matrix material and the gum tissue is secured back in place with individual stitches as fine as hair.

Usually, additional x-rays are taken after a tooth is removed to help to ensure that no pieces were left behind, as these pieces can cause major problems later. Sometimes, a tooth has an extra root or, when things are really diseased, a root can break during removal. The post-extraction x-rays ensure these things can be addressed immediately, preventing further problems in the future.

Other Dental Problems in Dogs

Sometimes, a dental procedure is recommended for reasons other than tartar and decay.

Retained Baby Teeth

In puppies – especially small-breed puppies – the baby teeth don’t always fall out the way they should. This is a condition known as retained deciduous teeth. When these teeth stick around longer than they should, it can affect the adult teeth. The most frequent culprits are the upper canine teeth, but any tooth can be affected.

When caught early, retained deciduous teeth can be removed before any harm is done, but if left untreated for even just for a few months, it can result in serious crowding and trapped tartar, which can affect eating, swallowing, and even closing the mouth. In some cases, the retained baby teeth can cause the adult teeth to erupt in an inappropriate spot, creating an abnormal alignment of the upper and lower teeth.

Misaligned Teeth

Remember middle school? That terrible time when everyone had braces or palate expanders and bite guards to fix teeth that came in wherever and whenever they wanted? Well, dogs can suffer from all of the same problems, requiring many of the same fixes. That puppy snaggle tooth might be cute, but it can also cause a host of problems and result in serious tartar and gingivitis.

Take Wesley, a puppy made famous by a practice in Michigan. When his adult teeth erupted, the tips touched and he could no longer fully close his mouth. Because of this, he had trouble eating. A veterinary dental practice placed braces (yes, just like the braces worn by humans) and his teeth were adjusted until he could eat normally.

Some early interventions for a misaligned bite can include using something as simple as playing with a tennis ball; the pressure from the ball’s shape encourages the lower canine teeth to shift outward and into a normal position for bigger dogs like Labradors.

When the problem is a bit more involved, a dental device called a wedge can be made to push the teeth apart as they finish coming in. When adult teeth have already come in, the solutions involve a little more; then, braces and selective tooth removal may be used to address crowding and poor alignment.

Fractured Teeth

Dogs can crack or break a tooth involving only the crown, making it just a cosmetic problem, or the crack can expose the sensitive nerves and blood vessels in the dental pulp, leading to infection and death of the tooth.

The teeth that are fractured most frequently are the canines and large carnassial teeth. These teeth are important for chewing, proper tongue placement, and prehension of food. Removal of these teeth functionally changes how a dog eats and can lead to chronic problems. Dogs without canine teeth sometimes have difficulty keeping their tongues in their mouths, which can lead to the tongue drying out and skin infections from constant drool.

gingival gum recession on dog

Dr. Kyle Grusling

When an upper large premolar (the carnassial tooth) is removed, the dog will have much more difficulty with grinding kibble and other food. Dogs will adjust by chewing differently or not chewing their food at all, which can cause its own set of problems. Because of the importance of these teeth, root canals should always be considered when the carnassial teeth are involved.

A root canal involves removing the dead and diseased contents of the pulp cavity (or root canal) of the tooth. This canal is then filled in with inert material to keep bacteria out. This allows the tooth to remain in place, be pain-free, and avoids the pain and recovery associated with extraction.

In the event of a root canal, some owners choose to go a step further and pursue an implant or a crown. Medically, there is rarely a reason to place an implant or a crown, but it sure does look neat! In working law-enforcement dogs, I recommend crowns to maintain bite strength, but beyond that, it’s a cosmetic option. That’s not to say you shouldn’t consider it, but it definitely isn’t necessary after a root canal, so if you can’t afford the crown, don’t let that scare you away from doing the root canal!

When to Consult A Veterinary Dental Specialist

Much of what I have discussed above can be handled by your primary care vet, but there are specific times when it is advisable to ask for a referral to a veterinary dental specialist.

For example, any veterinarian should be able to extract a puppy’s retained baby teeth, as long as the puppy has an otherwise normal bite and can close his mouth normally. But if the pup’s mouth cannot close normally, his teeth are hitting one another, food drops out of his mouth when he’s eating, he becomes slow or reluctant to eat, or if opening or closing his mouth makes a noise, it’s time to consult with a specialist.

Sometimes a general-practice veterinarian will be in the middle of a dental cleaning and examination, with your dog under anesthesia, when she discovers a problem that she thinks might be better addressed by a specialist. Don’t be shocked if you get a phone call like this in the middle of a procedure! Your vet may want to give you the option of dealing with the problem right away, or having a specialist take a different tack at another time.

The classic example is with a broken or cracked tooth. The immediate approach would be to remove the tooth, but if it is one of those big carnassials or a canine that helps a dog hold or retrieve items, another option would be to leave the tooth and make an appointment with a specialist who could perform a root canal and perhaps place a crown on the tooth, preserving its use. The decision is yours; your vet is just making sure you have all the facts before making a decision.

Sometimes, it’s easy to see during a physical that teeth are going to need to be extracted. In that case, your veterinarian will make an assessment if this is something she is comfortable doing or if a referral is needed.

Small breed dogs can have severe dental disease leading to what are called oronasal fistulas – holes between the mouth and the sinuses from severe infection at the canine teeth. When this happens, dogs often sneeze or have snotty noses. Some primary veterinarians are comfortable repairing these and some are not. It involves a high degree of skill, so if your vet recommends you see a specialist, please consider this seriously!

Simple extractions, such as those involving the incisors, can typically be done by your primary vet. A lot of us are even comfortable with the more complicated removal of canine teeth, premolars, or molars. But there are times when I will look in a mouth and immediately recommend referral.

This was the case for my own technician’s dog Lenny, a St. Bernard with a special condition called CUPS (chronic ulcerative periodontal stomatitis). Without going into too much detail, CUPS is effectively an overzealous response to tartar, resulting in ulcers in the mouth where tissue touches it. This dog had huge teeth that were mostly healthy. Because of how long the procedure would take and how involved the extractions were that would be needed, Lenny was referred to a veterinary dental specialist, where it took four procedures and almost 10 hours of surgery to address the situation.

Ask Your Veterinarian Questions About Dog Teeth Cleaning Before Scheduling

Most veterinarians require that your dog has a brief examination in a short appointment before a dental cleaning is scheduled; some practices offer these visits as a free consultation. If the vet recommends a cleaning, this is your chance to ask a number of important questions about what it will involve.

Make sure you understand what sort of anesthesia monitoring will be used, who will perform the cleaning, who will perform any extractions that are needed, and if there is dental x-ray. You should always expect your veterinarian to examine the teeth and complete any removals or other surgical procedures that are required.

It is also wise to ask about root canals and other options to save a tooth (especially if it is a canine or premolar)if, during the cleaning, one is found to be broken. While root canals are more expensive than extraction, they save your pet from future complications.

If extractions are planned, be sure to ask about pain medication and any other recommended aftercare.

Teeth are Important!

We know so much more today about canine health than we ever have and perhaps one of the biggest advancements in recent years has to do with more aggressive promotion of dental health. Diseased and broken teeth cause so many dogs so much pain, and they aren’t necessary! Professional dental procedures are perhaps the most valuable tools in a dog owner’s arsenal for helping his or her canine companions live a long and comfortable life.

A 2011 graduate of Michigan State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, Kyle Grusling practiced emergency medicine for three years before switching to a general practice. Dr. Grusling works at Northland Animal Hospital in Rockford, Michigan.

How to Stop a Dog’s Unwanted Behavior in Five Steps

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
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29
The best way to correct a dog's behavior is to remove opportunities for bad behavior and provide a new better behavior.

Most of the time, when dogs do something we don’t want them to do (such as stealing our socks or jumping on our elderly aunt), the first thing out of our mouths is “NO!” We’ve all done it. But you may have had a dog trainer or two tell you not to use the word “no.” Why not? Shouldn’t you correct your dog if he makes a mistake?

First off, in most cases, simply saying “no” (even if you say it loudly) doesn’t work. (If saying “no” did work, I’m quite sure my phone would stop ringing and I’d be out of a job.) In addition, when we use intimidation to stop our dogs from doing a behavior we don’t like, we may damage our relationship with our dog. Lastly, saying no provides no direction to your dog; it does nothing to tell your dog what she should do instead.

So if saying “no” isn’t the answer, how do we stop unwanted behavior? Here is a formula that you can apply to almost any unwanted behavior for great results:

1. Start with liberal doses of management.

“Management” is dog trainer lingo for prevention. It means making sure your dog doesn’t have the opportunity to “practice” the behavior you’d like to stop. Whether that behavior is chewing your shoes, jumping on your kids, or barking as your neighbor’s dog walks by your house, the goal is to figure out a way to stop your dog from doing it until you can teach her what she should do instead.

This may entail getting creative – or at least putting your shoes in the closet. Use baby gates, crates, window blocks, and leashes. If you have a puppy, you may need to keep a toy in your hand when you pet your pup to keep her from mouthing. If your dog habitually barks at things she sees out the window, you may need to apply a visual block so she can’t see outside. If your dog jumps on visitors to your house, you may need to put up a baby gate so your pup can’t charge up to people when they come in the door. You get the idea. Once management is in place, you can move on to step two.

2. Remove reinforcement.

There is always a reason a dog does something that we don’t want her to do. It may be an expression of normal dog behavior and we need to provide other outlets for that behavior. The dog may be anxious and exhibits the behavior to alleviate anxiety. Dogs practice some behaviors we don’t like because they are fun (such as jumping on us), but sometimes these behaviors are an expression of frustration or fear (such as barking or tearing up the carpet).

Try to figure out why your dog does the behavior. Does jumping on you get your attention? Does getting into the garbage alleviate boredom? Will racing around the house with a sponge entice you to play the keep-away game? Does pulling on the leash mean the dog gets to drag you to and make you wait at the source of an interesting odor? Before you can effectively stop an unwanted behavior, you have to be able identify what is reinforcing the behavior and either remove that reinforcement or meet the dog’s need in another way.

3. Teach the dog what you want her to do instead.

Remember, saying no fails to tell your dog what to do instead. Teaching your dog what to do instead of (fill in your behavior issue here) is a major factor in successfully solving that problem behavior. For most of us, this is a huge change in our thought process.

  • Instead of jumping up, I would like my dog to greet people calmly with all four paws on the ground.
  • Instead of begging for food when we sit down to eat, I would like my dog to go settle on her bed.
  • Instead of barking out the window, I would like my dog to come and tell me if there is something to worry about outside.
  • Instead of lunging toward dog friends, I would like my dog to sit while I snap off the leash before play.
  • Instead of pulling on the leash when we walk down the street, I would like my dog to walk next to me.
  • Instead of running off into the woods, I would like my dog to stay within 30 feet of me on off-leash jaunts.

When we come up with something our dog can do instead of the undesirable behavior, we have identified an achievable goal. And from there we can lay out a training plan to meet that goal!

4. Use a positive interrupter.

Don’t we ever get to say “no” to our dogs? Setting limits and having boundaries (both physical and behavioral) are important in life, as well as with our dogs. It is okay to stop your dog from doing something that is unsafe or even just annoying. The key here is how you stop her. Clear and consistent feedback can be effective.

dog jumping on counter

For example, if you can see that your dog is considering jumping on the couch and you’d rather she didn’t, you can calmly and consistently interrupt the behavior and redirect her to her own bed.

I like to use something called a positive interrupter (PI). There are different types of PIs. The one I find most valuable is a noise or word that means, “Disengage from whatever you are doing and pay attention to me!” It is remarkably easy to teach initially, but it does take a lot of practice to generalize it so that it will work in more difficult situations.

To teach a positive interrupt:

a) Choose a word or noise.

Many people use a kissy noise or tongue click. Some people say “Watch!” or “Look!” Alternatively, you can use a more traditional approach and say “Leave it!” or “No!” The word doesn’t matter; what is important is the way you say it and the meaning you give to the word. The word is simply a cue; it’s not meant to be used to threaten or intimidate the dog. Use it in a clear and cheerful tone, as you would with any cue.

This is extremely important if you choose a word like “No!” as your PI. Most humans frequently use “No!” as a stern command or a threat of punishment, and find it nearly impossible to always say it cheerfully and happily. Try to think of it as just another random cue and say it cheerfully!

b) Say your PI and then immediately give your dog an amazing treat.

This is a time to bring out the big guns: chicken, roast beef, or whatever your dog loves most. Say your PI cheerfully and immediately feed your dog several pieces of roast beef, one right after the other. Repeat this a dozen or so times, or until your dog looks expectantly at you when he hears your PI. You are using classical conditioning to build a conditioned emotional response (CER) to the word. This step will help your dog respond even around really tempting distractions later on.

c) Teach your dog to disengage and look at you.

Cheerfully say your PI when your dog is mildly distracted. If he has developed a CER to the word, he will look back at you expecting the roast beef. At this point, “mark” the moment when he looks back with a signal of some kind, such as the click of a clicker or the word “Yes!” and then give him several pieces of roast beef in a row. Repeat this step until your dog is happily and joyfully orienting to you each time he hears the PI.

d) Practice around distractions.

Start with easy distractions such as a piece of paper or a boring toy. Gradually work with more difficult distractions. For those really tough distractions such as a squirrel running in the trees, you may have to practice at a distance first. Keep reinforcing your dog when he orients back to you until he will do it in most circumstances. At that point, you can begin to use your PI to interrupt your dog when he’s doing something that you would prefer he didn’t do.

Interrupters work in the moment, but they don’t necessarily teach your dog not to do the behavior in the future. An interrupter is a temporary solution. If you consistently follow your interrupter with a cue for an alternative behavior, you are more likely to have long-term success. For example, if your puppy starts to chew on a table leg, you can say your PI and then redirect your pup to chew on a toy instead.

5. Use force-free corrections sparingly.

Yes, there are ways to “correct” a dog without resorting to pain or intimidation.

Timeouts are one example. A timeout removes the opportunity for reinforcement. If your puppy bites your hand in play, you can “mark” the moment the teeth touch your skin with an “ouch” or other noise and stop playing for five to 10 seconds – then resume play. When repeated several times in a play session, the puppy should figure out that his teeth on your skin makes the play stop – bummer! He will try to avoid mouthing you in the future in order to keep the play session going.

Other similar corrective measures include walking away from your dog, putting toys or treats away, or preventing your dog from engaging in an activity he would like to do. This approach can be successful at stopping behaviors that are reinforced by your attention.

That said, however, timeouts require very good timing and must be used consistently. If your dog is not clear about what is stopping the play, for example, he may just get frustrated, and frustration can lead to an increase in unwanted behavior. Use timeout techniques sparingly, if at all.

Customize the Plan

In most situations, the first three steps (putting management into place, removing reinforcement, and teaching an alternative behavior) will work to stop unwanted behaviors. Interrupters may help for behaviors that are more difficult to manage, and timeouts can be used sparingly for behaviors that are being reinforced by you.

Keep in mind that stopping unwanted behaviors doesn’t always follow a linear path. Sometimes you will need to reevaluate and rework your training plans until you find the right formula for you and your dog.

Panosteitis: Canine Growing Pains

By
Catherine Ashe, DVM
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You take your happy, healthy puppy for a leisurely stroll in the park. It’s a beautiful day, and everything seems normal. When you get home, though, you notice that your pup seems to be limping a little. Worse, it seems he favors a different leg every time you look at him, plus he’s lethargic and doesn’t want to eat. What could be the problem?

These symptoms describe panosteitis (pronounced “pan-aw-stee-eye-tis”). It may also be referred to as eosinophilic panosteitis (“EoPan” for short), fibrous osteodystrophy, or enostosis. The cause of this disease is not yet understood. Current research points to the possibility that feeding high-protein, high-calorie foods to young, rapidly growing dogs may be related. Panosteitis most commonly occurs in young, fast-growing, large-breed dogs, with German Shepherd Dogs most frequently affected.

dogs prone to panosteitis

Symptoms of panosteitis in dogs can look like other conditions, so a thorough evaluation is needed. Other diseases that can mimic panosteitis include tick-borne illnesses (Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever), polyarthropathy (inflamed joints), sprains, and fractures.

Veterinary Examination

The first step is a thorough, nose-to-tail vet examination, including vital signs and most importantly a temperature, since dogs with panosteitis often have a fever. After the initial exam, your vet will watch your dog walk to locate the areas of lameness. With this condition, multiple legs are affected, and your dog may limp on different legs at different times.

After observing your dog walk, the veterinarian should palpate the long bones (the humerus, femur, tibia, fibula, ulna, and radius); these are the areas where panosteitis most commonly occurs. Your veterinarian may insist on a muzzle for this part of the exam. Don’t be offended! It is for the safety of everyone involved, as the pain of panosteitis is severe and can cause an otherwise well-behaved and friendly dog to cry out or bite.

The next step is diagnostic testing. This usually includes bloodwork and x-rays of the legs. Bloodwork is often normal, but in some cases, an increase in eosinophils is noted. Eosinophils are the white blood cells predominantly responsible for fighting off parasites. The cause of this elevation is not known.

Radiogaphs (x-rays) often clinch the diagnosis, but they must be of excellent quality and technique, as the changes can be subtle. Digital x-ray is best, especially since early in the course of the disease, the changes may be difficult to detect. As the disease progresses, a white patchy “haze” will appear in the medulla (center) of the long bones.

There are more complex tests, such bone scintigraphy, that can be done. However, the diagnosis is usually made based on a combination of signalment (age and breed), clinical signs and history, x-rays, and response to treatment.

Tincture of Time (and Pain Meds)

You may feel better once the diagnosis is made, but your dog may not; there is no cure for panosteitis. Generally, with time, the symptoms will resolve, typically around the time of skeletal maturity. It is rare to see this condition in dogs older than about 2½ years, but it can happen. Symptoms can wax and wane over the course of weeks to months. Management involves mostly rest/exercise restriction and aggressive pain control.

The latter is usually accomplished with non-steroidal medications such as carprofen, firocoxib, meloxicam, and similar medications. A newer drug on the market, Galliprant, has similar pain control effects with (theoretically) fewer side effects such as vomiting, diarrhea, and kidney damage. Other medications such as tramadol, gabapentin, and topical patches (lidocaine or fentanyl) may be administered if the pain is not controlled. A comfortable, thickly padded bed can be helpful, too.

Dr. Catherine Ashe is a regular contributor to Whole Dog Journal.

Download the Full November 2018 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
  • Get Wet!
  • Don't Deny Dental Health
  • Five Steps To Stopping Unwanted Behavior
  • Growing Pains
  • When One Is Not Enough
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National Association of Professional Petsitters

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

On the heels of a several-day visit in the San Francisco Bay area, I wrote an editorial for the October issue of Whole Dog Journal bemoaning the apparent lack of safe and well-educated dog walkers. As I drove and walked through several towns, visiting different friends, I saw LOTS of people who appeared to be hired dog-walkers; there seems to have been an explosion in the numbers of people providing this service in the greater metropolitan area. But practically every one I saw was either walking way too many dogs at once (not all that enjoyable for the dogs), walking a group of dogs in which each one was fitted with a shock collar, or walking “only a couple” dogs, but talking on their cell phones the entire time.

professional dog walkers are taking over cities across the country

The “professional” dog walkers have all but taken over all of the dog parks in the area, too – so much so that many of the cities that host these parks have had to pass local ordinances capping the number of dogs that any one person can bring at one time to the parks. And I have to say that for people who seem to have a full-time occupation, none of the folks I saw were being all that professional.

I mentioned that I think it’s great that there is a much greater availability of people for dog-walking, midday pet visits, transporting dogs to the vet, etc., and that we have the so-called “gig economy” to thank for this. And there are several companies that have dog walking apps and online tools that make it easier than ever to find and hire these folks. But I lumped in one organization – petsitters.org -with the others that really didn’t fit. (I have since omitted its inclusion.)

Petsitters.org is the website for the National Association of Professional Petsitters. A dog owner can use the petsitters.org website to find someone to house- and dog-sit when she has to go out of town, visit her dog in the middle of every work day, and yes, even take her dog for a walk. The difference between hiring a person from NAPPs and an app is: the NAPPs dog-care provider will be NAPPs-certified.

The certification program is a broad-range and in-depth self-paced course covering all topics relevant to pet sitting, including pet care, health, nutrition and behavior for a variety of animals. It also includes pet safety and a complete pet first aid course. 

From the NAPPs site:

“Certification acknowledges that the pet sitter is a serious professional who has obtained a level of expertise through personal study. Once the course of study has been completed and a passing score on the examination has been achieved, pet sitters and pet owners can be assured of a meaningful credential.”

NAPPs strives to be the most respected authority in professional pet sitting and offers several resources for pet owners to find the right pet professional for their family, including a pet sitter locator and tips for hiring a professional pet sitter. There are about 2,200 NAPPs members nationwide.

I fully support the professionalization and education of these dog-care providers! Visiting your home and taking your dog for a walk isn’t a job that should be handed to just anyone! The risks to your dog are just too great.

Any Bright Ideas for Encouraging Spay/Neuter?

By
Nancy Kerns
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1

As I measure out their medicine (to treat their coccidia infection), wipe their faces and paws after meals, and pick up more of the endless supply of loose poop the puppies leave in their wake, I often find myself wondering how to get people in my community to prevent their dogs from so frequently reproducing.

I live in a low-income rural town in a low-income rural county in far northern California. It’s only about three hours from the affluent communities in the San Francisco Bay area, but it may as well be an entirely different country, for all the differences in how dogs are commonly kept and treated here.

pitbull shepherd mix puppies

When I lived in the Bay area, I took my dogs to a holistic veterinarian who used both conventional medicine and acupuncture, chiropractic, and herbs. There was any number of force-free trainers, dog walkers, dog daycare providers, and boarding facilities to choose from. Most dogs lived with their families indoors. And most were either altered (spayed or neutered) or assiduously managed to prevent unwanted reproduction. And finding adoptable puppies in shelters is actually difficult – when a litter is made available, they all get adopted within hours.

In contrast, where I live now, it seems like there is just an ENDLESS supply of puppies washing onto the shores of my local shelter, which serves both my smallish town as well as all of the unincorporated areas in the county.

foster puppies litter

While I am fostering this litter of 10 pit/shepherd-mix pups, there is another litter of 10 pit-mix pups, about five weeks older than my crew, just going up for adoption, as well as a litter of five Kelpie/Border Collie-mix pups and another dozen puppies from three or four other, smaller litters.

Part of the problem here is that there is a perceived shortage of low-cost spay/neuter clinics in the county. I say “perceived” because each time I have made appointments at these clinics (once for a sweet “community cat” in my neighborhood, and once for the dog who belongs to the community college student who rents a room in my office/house), I found the price to be exceedingly reasonable and was able to make the appointment the same week; the clinics were not so booked that it took a month to get a surgery appointment, as can often be the case in more-populated areas with more demand. And yet I have heard people who were surrendering intact animals (or these ubiquitous litters of unwanted puppies) to the shelter complain about their lack of access to low-cost spay/neuter. I think it’s just a euphemism for “not free” and “a tiny bit inconvenient.”

border collie mix puppies

I think the greater problem is a lack of education and incentive to either control/contain their dogs or make a spay/neuter appointment – or to adopt an already-altered animal from the shelter! People who buy or accept a “free puppy” hardly ever seem to manage to get their animals altered before puppies are imminent.

I once heard someone on a community radio show discussing her local shelter’s tactic for trying to increase the rate of spay/neuter in her area: The shelter had a monthly drawing for a cash prize; I think it was about $250! Entry to the drawing was free, and the pool of potential winners was fairly small: only people who could submit a receipt for their pet’s spay or neuter surgery from the previous month could enter.

The shelter provided all the local veterinary clinics with posters that publicized the monthly drawing and tried to encourage veterinarians to help spread the word that some lucky owner could win back the cost of the surgery. I have long wanted to try something similar at my local shelter, and am sure I will try it sometime. Perhaps I’ll even sponsor the cash prize – when I’m not breaking my own monthly budget paying for foster-puppy food and medicine.

What about your area? Do you know of any other good ideas for promoting higher rates of spay/neuter, or helping people prevent their intact dogs from having “accidental” litters of puppies? I’d love to hear about anything that works.

Moving with Dogs: Everything You Need to Know

By
Sassafras Lowrey
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2

Moving to a new house regardless of whether it’s down the street or across the country is stressful for anyone, but for dogs it can be especially confusing and upsetting. I just moved my three dogs (ages 16 years to 21 months, 10 pounds to 100 pounds) from New York City to Portland, Oregon. The move has been a bit hectic, but my biggest priority has been creating stability and consistency for my dogs.

In fact, my move was all about my dogs. My middle pup has severe thunder phobia; even with training and working closely with our veterinary team to prescribe psychiatric medication, she wasn’t able to cope with the erratic weather patterns of the North East. And then my young giant dog needs surgery on both her knees, which surgeons discouraged us from doing while we lived in a Brooklyn townhouse with steep stairs.

© Monkeybusinessimages | Dreamstime.com

So, my partner and I put our house up for sale and rented a one-level ranch-style house in Oregon, where thunder storms are rare. My move was all about meeting the individual needs of my dogs, but if you are planning to move with dogs for any reason, there are some important things to consider for the emotional and physical wellness of your dog during the transition.

How to Prepare Your Dogs for Moving to A New Home

Jordan Holliday, Brand Marketing Specialist with Embrace Pet Insurance, recommends, “Before you head to a new neighborhood, city, or state, be sure to have the contact information for the local emergency veterinary hospital on hand. If you’re going to need a new primary care vet, have one lined up and have your pet’s documents transferred to the new hospital in advance.”

Leaving our favorite family veterinarian was one of the hardest parts of making the decision to move cross country for us. Veterinarians often have connections to other doctors in different cities and states so if you like your vet, it’s worth asking them for a referral. Ours was able to find us a new primary care clinic and veterinary surgeon close to our new house.

As much as possible, prioritize keeping your dog’s routines consistent during the move. Holliday encourages movers with dogs to, “once in the new home, create a haven: Consider unpacking your pet’s comfort items first. Having his bowls, bed, and favorite treats or toys can be a solace in a strange, new place.” Crates and beds that are comforting and familiar for your dog are also good things to have available right away during a move – and even on the trip there.

© Oneinchpunch | Dreamstime.com

Holliday also reminded dog parents to be sure to fill any prescriptions your dog has in advance of your move. If you are moving to a new area of the country you will also want to ask your vet how the new climate could impact concerns and preventatives for fleas, ticks, and heartworm prior to the move.

Useful Dog Training Skills for Adapting to New Environments

When moving, it can be helpful to remember that everything is new and different for your dog. Dogs can be situational learners, which means they might backslide a little bit on things like potty-training or crate training when in foreign spaces. In a new house or apartment, your dog might need more reassurance and a refresher on basic manners.

Grab some high value treats and make training a game! Working on some of your dog’s favorite tricks or practicing basic obedience skills could be a fun way of getting everyone used to the new house. This will be a good refresher for your dog, and a great way to unwind together during a stressful move.

Socializing Your Dog to New Neighbors, Noises and Other Environment Stuff

“Moving to a new home can be confusing and scary to a pet who doesn’t yet understand what’s about to happen. Secure your pet on moving day: Moving day can be quite traumatic for your pet. Many pets resort to door dashing to escape the craziness and can find themselves lost! All it takes is one mover or worker leaving a door open. It’s important to make sure your pet is wearing current identification at all times. As an added safety measure, it’s best to crate or kennel your pet in a quiet, familiar place, such as a bathroom,” says Jordan Holliday.

It’s likely that, big or small, your move is going to come with some environmental shifts for your dog: noisy neighbors, street traffic, etc. Be sure to take some training time to work with your dog on adjusting to the new home and neighborhood.

Having come from a huge city, my two big dogs are currently most enamored by “squirrel TV” out the large picture window in our living room. It looks out onto a small gravel road with lots of trees. Neither dog has ever lived somewhere with a window they could see out of, let alone one that features wildlife on the other side! So I’m spending a lot of time treating and rewarding quiet behavior and redirecting their focus toward toys and chews.

Checking for Dog Safety in Your New House, Yard and Community

As you are planning your move, be sure to confirm that the city (if you’re moving further away), or the neighborhood homeowner’s association doesn’t have any kind of dog or breed restrictions – especially if you are guardian of a breed commonly targeted for by discriminatory breed bans.

Also, if you are a multi-dog household, check that the local ordinances don’t place any limits on the number of pets (I recently learned that as dog friendly as Seattle is, they limit the number of pets someone can have of all species combined to three!)

© Stokkete | Dreamstime.com

Once you arrive at your new house, you’ll want to double check everything is safe before letting your dog off leash to explore. This is especially true for the yard. Holliday encourages that dog guardians, “tour the property carefully to make sure there are no holes in fencing, loose boards, sharp objects, or other safety concerns.” I found a couple of areas in the fence line in our new backyard that I needed to patch/block. It’s also a good idea to bring your dog into the house and the yard on leash the first time walking them through your new home and showing them where familiar things like toys, beds and water bowls are.

Good luck with your move!

Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author and Certified Trick Dog Instructor. Sassafras lives and writes in Portland, Oregon, with her partner, a senior Chihuahua mix, a rescued Cattle Dog mix, Newfoundland puppy, two bossy cats, and a formerly semi-feral kitten.

Planning A Road Trip with Your Dog?

By
Sassafras Lowrey
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1

Thinking of taking a road trip with your dog? Road trips can be a lot of fun and are a great way to see new and out-of-the-way parts of the country. Road trips with dogs bring unique challenges and require dog-specific prep but are a great way to spend time with your best friend. I just finished a coast-to-coast road trip with my three dogs (and three cats) to move from Brooklyn, New York, to Portland, Oregon. Our road trip took us a total of seven days, and the dogs were relaxed and having fun coast to coast! Here are a few tips and strategies for how to road trip safely with your dogs.

Car Safety for Dogs

If your dog isn’t used to spending time in the car, it’s a good idea to start slow with short rides to fun places in order to build up their comfort and familiarity with being in the car before embarking on longer road trips.

“The most important thing that pet parents can do for their dogs is keep them safe and secure while riding in a car. Purchase a ventilated pet carrier or crate for them to ride in. If you can’t find a crate or carrier to meet your needs, a pet safety belt or travel harness is the next best option” explained Jordan Holliday, Brand Marketing Specialist with Embrace Pet Insurance.

Because our SUV can’t hold crates for both my big dogs (100 pounds and 50 pounds), we use seat belts for both big dogs in the back seat which enable them to sit and lay down but keep them protected in the event of a car accident. If you’re going to use a canine seatbelt for your dog, be sure to research which ones are safest in crash testsand introduce the seat belt to your dog before the road trip so they are familiar with the sensation of being held in place.

shih tzu in car safety harness

On the road trip you will want to avoid ever leaving your dog in the car alone, as temperatures can climb very quickly even if you are just running into a store or restaurant. Traveling with another person is helpful when on a road trip with dogs so one person can stay with the dog(s) while the other goes into gas stations or restaurants for bathroom breaks and to get food.

Jordan Holliday also offered the reminder that you should “make sure your pet keeps his head inside the vehicle- Though your dog may enjoy the fresh air, it’s actually dangerous for him to stick his head out the window while you are driving. Oncoming traffic or flying objects could possibly injure him. It’s best for your dog to sit in a pet seat belt or crate, and not be roaming around the vehicle.”

How Frequently Should You Stop to Let Your Dog Stretch?

How often you need to stop will depend on the individual needs of your dog – young potty-training puppies and senior dogs may need more frequent stops. My sixteen-year-old dog and 21-month-old puppy needed bathroom breaks more frequently than my 7-year-old dog.  In general, it’s a good idea to stop every couple of hours to let your dogs stretch their legs. These breaks are also a good opportunity for you to stretch, get a cup of coffee, or otherwise make sure you’re awake enough to continue driving.

When planning your road trip to include dogs, you’ll want to limit how may super long days you have in the car and divide your trip up with stops at pet-friendly hotels or with friends/family. With our cross-country road trip, we limited our driving to no more than seven hours a day (with the exception of the last day when the hotel we planned to stay at turned out to not be safe for the dogs) and we had to push on another few hours to our new house. For your road trip, be sure to plan your route before leaving and call ahead to reserve hotel rooms, and to confirm what individual hotel’s pet policies are. Many hotels have size, breed, or weight restrictions for dogs, and others limit the number of dogs you’re able to have in your hotel room.

Best Places to Stop on a Road Trip with Dogs

The best places to stop between destinations for potty breaks and stretching your dog’s legs tend to be state-run “rest stops” off the interstate. These rest stops have easy-to-access parking lots and usually have designated “pet areas” for walking and pottying dogs. Be sure to have plenty of poop bags for your journey (though some designated pet areas have those available). Some rest stops have small fenced dog runs, but be sure to keep your dog securely leashed – traffic, wildlife and large trucks can easily spook dogs.

If you have a pit-bull type dog or other breed/mix that is frequently discriminated against, be sure to research local laws for each city and state you will be driving through. You want to ensure that you aren’t unwittingly going to be in an area that has laws in place that ban or otherwise restrict certain breeds.

Dog Gear for Long Car Rides

Holliday suggests that dog owners should “bring something familiar for your pet- car rides can bring about anxiety in some dogs. To ease their mind and provide them with a sense of familiarity, bring their favorite blanket or toy along for the ride.”

It’s also important to bring water, portable water bowls, food, a pet first aid kit, any medications your dog regularly takes, proof of vaccinations/a health certificate from your veterinarian, up-to-date identification tags (on your dog), an extra leash, collar and/or harness. You’ll also want to bring a familiar dog bed or blanket if you’re going to be staying in a hotel as it will give your dog a place to settle in the room. Toys, safe bones or other chews, and treat-releasing toys can also help your dog settle into strange or stressful places.

How to Combat Motion Sickness in Dogs

Before embarking on a long road trip it’s a good idea to practice by taking your dog on short trips. This will help your dog adjust to car rides and lets you know if your dog is prone to motion sickness. If you find your dog doesn’t feel well on car rides it’s a good idea to talk with your veterinarian before your road trip. They may prescribe anti-nausea medication and will discuss feeding plans with you that may include adjusting meal time to avoiding feeding your dog right before you start driving for the day.

Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author and Certified Trick Dog Instructor. Sassafras lives and writes in Portland, Oregon with her partner, a senior Chihuahua mix, a rescued Cattle Dog mix, Newfoundland puppy, two bossy cats, and a formerly semi-feral kitten.

Hold Off on Those Oral Flea-Killing Medications

By
Nancy Kerns
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On September 20, the FDA issued a communication for pet owners and veterinarians, warning about the potential for neurologic adverse events following the administration of certain flea and tick products to dogs and cats. The products named in the release are oral products, available by veterinary prescription only, that contain isoxazoline-based ingredients. These include Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica.

As we described in September 2017, both Nexgard and Simparica have verbiage on their package inserts that say, “Use with caution in dogs with a history of seizures or neurologic disorders.” To date, Bravecto has not included this recommendation on its product insert, though we extended this warning to dog owners in our article, based on the fact that the active ingredients in the products use the same mode of action. Credelio is a newer drug, given market approval by the FDA in January 2018; its package insert does include the statement “Use with caution in dogs with a history of seizures.”

nexguard flea control

The FDA communication notes, “In the first three years after approval, the FDA pays particularly close attention to adverse event reports, looking for any safety information that may emerge.” In the case of the isoxazoline-based flea-killing medications, the FDA observed a significant number of “adverse drug experience” reports mentioning these medications and pets that experienced seizures. The FDA has asked the drug manufacturers to add information about this issue to their product labels, and encourages veterinarians to “use their specialized training to review their patients’ medical histories and determine, in consultation with pet owners, whether a product in the isoxazoline class is appropriate for the pet.”

bravecto flea control

The communication did not include any mention of flea-control medications that contain spinosyn-based ingredients (Comfortis or AcuGuard, and Trifexis or ComboGuard), which work in a very similar fashion to the isoxazolines. However, the package insert for these medications include the statement “Use with caution in dogs with pre-existing epilepsy.”

In light of this FDA communication, Whole Dog Journal would like to make the following recommendations:

1. If your dog has ever had a seizure, has a known seizure disorder, or is descended from a breed or family that is prone to developing seizures:

Do not administer to your dog any flea-control product that contains isoxazoline-based ingredients (Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica) – OR products that contain spinosyn-based ingredients (Comfortis or AcuGuard, and Trifexis or ComboGuard).

2. Until more information is made available by the FDA about the relative risk being posed by these products, we’d hold off on giving ANY dog ANY of these oral flea medications.

comfortis flea control

An exception could perhaps be made for dogs who have severe flea allergy, live in an area where fleas are a constant threat, who suffer serious adverse reactions to topical flea-killing pesticides, and who have taken these oral products previously without any adverse reactions. (Read carefully: That would encompass a very tiny pool of potential candidates.)

3. As we noted in our September 2017 article, oral products that kill fleas pose many disadvantages over topical flea-killing pesticides.

Most important is the fact that, once consumed, there is no way to reverse or neutralize their activity in case of an adverse reaction. In contrast, if a dog has an adverse reaction to a topical pesticide, the dog can be thoroughly washed and re-washed to reduce the product’s absorption and shorten its effect on the dog.

4. The FDA did not include information about what specifically prompted the publication of its communication.

Has there been a spike in the number of reported cases of seizures among dogs (and cats) treated with these drugs? Or are the numbers of seizures being reported far greater than the pre-market approval studies led the FDA to expect? We have asked the FDA for this information and will report further as we learn more.

Fostering Puppies Who Are Just Too Young

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Have you ever tried to ignore the cries of an upset baby while you performed another task that HAD to get done? If so, perhaps you will be patient with this post, as it is being written even as I try to tune out some whining puppies, while simultaneously listening for sounds of serious distress.

pit bull german shepherd mix puppies

Yes, puppies again. My local shelter called yesterday to ask if I could foster a litter of 10 pit/German Shepherd/who-knows-what-mix puppies. Well, sure, of course; I will always say yes if I am not on my way out of town or something. But this group is seriously challenging. Why?

  1. They are too young to be separated from their mom. Whomever brought them to the shelter said they are four weeks old and eating soaked dry dog food and that the mother would no longer feed them. In fact, they are sort of eating soaked dry food (and canned food); they are also wading through it and wearing it all over their bodies, even as they cry for their mom.
  2. They are too young to be separated from their mom! They are just developing the lapping reflex. When I offer them formula in a dish, only two (so far) have figured out how to lap it up. I am giving the rest formula from a puppy bottle. They are also too old to fall for suckling the bottle like a tiny infant – neither the nipple nor the formula is fooling them that this is mom – so I have cut the end off the baby bottle nipple and are basically dribbling formula into their mouths. 

I had spent only a few hours with these babies when I came to the conclusion that it would be WAY better for everyone concerned (the pups, sure, but also ME) if we could convince the owner to let me foster the mother dog, too, even just for another week. These guys are just not having fun without mom. Upon hearing my difficulty, the shelter director agreed, and tried to contact the person who had brought the pups to the shelter. But guess what! That person gave the shelter all bogus contact information. Great! No way to track down mom. So I will do my best and hope for the best.

It’s been a little while since I fostered a litter of puppies without the help of their mama. I honestly had sort of forgotten how incredibly MESSY it is! The babies are just covered in food, and they don’t know how to walk out of or away from their bed to go potty yet – they just stand up and pee in the bed, and poop JUST outside of the bed or JUST inches away from their food bowl, and then walk right through the poop! ARGH! It’s a serious challenge to keep both them and their environment clean.

After their first meal of some slightly watered-down canned food, I asked my young dog Woody to enter the pen, hoping that he might take pity on the tiny pups and lick a few of them clean for me. He was drawn to the smell of canned food but declined to lick anybody. He’s not really into puppies until they get old enough to play with him – darn it.

Anyway, until they mature just a little more, and start reliably pooping and peeing outside their bedding, and eating better, things are going to be a little rough around here. (Although, as I write this, it is quiet, at last, at this precise minute. I think I am going to take a quick nap. I learned this lesson when I was a mother of an infant, 26 years ago. I’m not going to pass up the chance, as it might not last long. Wish us luck!)

More on Puppy Fostering

Raised Right

Raising A Well-Adjusted Puppy

Dog Fostering Programs

Dog Walking Apps: Are They Safe?

By
Sassafras Lowrey
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8

Increasingly, companies like Wag!, Rover and others have developed apps that make it possible for dog owners to be connected to dog walkers and schedule walks directly from their phone. These apps (commonly referred to as “Uber for dog walkers”) are easy and convenient for dog parents, but are they good for dogs? How can dog owners be sure about the quality of care their dogs are receiving in their absence?

I first became familiar with these apps through their lost dog signs and postings, which I see frequently in Brooklyn, New York.  In a one month period this year, Wag! walkers lost three dogs, and there have been others lost since. In my old neighborhood, a walker from the app lost a skittish rescue dog by dropping the leash; the dog was lost for over a week and was eventually hit by a car and died.

I have three dogs ranging in size from 10 pounds to 100 pounds, and the middle dog is a spooky and reactive former street dog. I am extremely picky about who gets access to my dogs and the dog professionals who I hire to care for them – with good reason. A traumatic experience with a bad dog walker could potentially undo years of behavioral training and confidence building.

dog walker in new york city

Dreamstime

Are Dog Walking Apps Safe?

The way that dog walking apps work is that the company hires walkers, and then matches that walker with you/your dog, meaning that the walker showing up to give your dog a mid-day walk is likely someone your dog has never met before. “When you use a dog walking app service, you are inviting a stranger into your home who you have not vetted. You are handing your four-legged family member, with all his or her unique quirks, to a well-intentioned dog lover who most likely does not have the requisite education and training to keep your dog safe by understanding body language, recognizing early warning signs, knowing how to avoid incident, and what to do should something go wrong. This puts your dog at greater risk, and also your own liability,” explains Veronica Boutelle of Dog Biz Dog Walking Academy, which trains and supports positive reinforcement-based dog professionals in running ethical dog care businesses. She strongly discourages the use of dog walking companies that utilize this practice of hiring unprofessional dog walkers.

Should You Avoid Hiring Dog Care From an App?

Ultimately the choice is yours for who you hire to watch your dog. Megan Stanley, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA, owner of Dogma Training & Pet Services, Inc., and chair for the Board of Directors of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers, encourages dog parents to avoid them.

“I do not recommend this at all, especially where they have not met the dog. There is not time for an adequate introduction to ensure that your dog is comfortable with this person or the time to ensure the person handles and interacts with your dog appropriately. Just as you would never hire someone to be in your house without knowing them or even dream of doing this for someone who would work with your children, you should not do this for your dog. Many of these companies say they have a strict screening process, but these are still lacking. There is very minimal training, if any at all, and most just do a basic background check which does not ensure they will handle your dog safely. The risks to your dog are too high,” Stanley says.

Pack Walks: Avoid These Above All

Many apps and other dog walking companies, especially in large cities, utilize “pack walks”, where multiple dogs from different homes are walked together. “It may look impressive to see a dog walker with 10, 15, or 20 dogs. But the reality is that such practices are unsafe for you and your dog, and most likely stressful for your dog as well. Responsible professional dog walkers keep groups small to ensure individual attention and safety for all dogs in their care,” explains Veronica Boutelle.

tel aviv dog walker

Dreamstime

How To Properly Screen Dog Walkers

Unfortunately, dog walking is an unregulated profession and is seen by some dog owners and would-be walkers as “unskilled labor”, when in fact walking someone’s dog(s) well and safely requires a lot of training and experience working with dogs that must extend beyond simply liking dogs, or having grown up with dogs. These are “qualifications” I’ve heard acquaintances give when saying that they were thinking of being dog walkers because it is an easy way to make money on the side.

Working with dogs is not easy work – it requires training and experience with dogs of varieties of sizes and temperaments. Things can go wrong on a walk in an instant for any number of reasons: your dog is approached by an off-leash dog, your dog is triggered by environmental factors, your dog is child-reactive, etc.

Stanley suggests, “It is important that you ask any dog care professional about their qualifications and experience. They should have formal training. Many people work with dogs with no experience and just consider themselves dog lovers. This is not adequate, especially for dog walkers, as they need to understand canine communication and basic training. These are critical to keep a dog safe and ensure they are not doing anything that would cause the dog’s behavior to worsen.”

First and foremost, if you need to hire a dog walker, keep in mind that the dog walker you hire will be responsible for the care of your dog out in the world when you aren’t there to monitor them.

Boutelle brings up the important reminder that, “The law holds all of us accountable for the actions of our dogs, even when we’re not present— just as the law holds us all accountable for the actions of our underaged children. In other words, you take on a liability risk sending your dog out into the world with a dog walker. Mitigating that risk is as simple as hiring a professional dog walker, one who has taken the initiative to seek out a high level of education and training about dog behavior, training, and management. One who does this as their dedicated professional career. One who forms long-term and accountable relationships to a small group of clients and their dogs.”

Interview Questions for Dog Walkers

Megan Stanley suggests the following questions are good to ask a potential walker or dog walking company you are considering to care for your dog:

– What training tools do you use for walking? Leashes, etc?
– How do you teach a dog to walk on a loose leash?
– How do reward good behavior?
– How do you respond to any inappropriate behavior from the dog?
– Are you bonded and insured?
– Do you perform background checks on all your dog walkers?
– Do you have a plan for emergencies?
– How do you communicate with us?
– Where will you walk my dog?
– How many dogs do you walk at once?
– How do you assess/introduce the dogs?
– What if a dog is unfriendly with other dogs or people?
– Will my dog be on or off-leash?
– What are the pick-up/drop-off procedures?
– Do you offer trial walks?
– Will anyone else walk my dog except the originally assigned walker?

Find more questions to ask and factors to consider right here.

Are There Any Safe Dog Walking Options?

Needing a walker is a fact of life for many working professionals with dogs. It is too unreasonable to expect our dogs to sit alone in the house all day, with no potty or social breaks. If your situation requires hired pet care, the most important thing you can do is put in the time to find a trained, professional walker that you and your dogs can build an ongoing trust and relationship with.

As Boutelle explains, “On the positive side, the emergence of these apps demonstrates the growth in demand for dog walkers. As more and more dogs are considered central members of their families, more dog lovers are seeking to provide a higher daily quality of life for their dogs, including physical exercise, mental stimulation, and companionship. That’s a wonderful thing to see. The next step is to provide dedicated dog lovers with the knowledge they need to make the best, most informed and safest choices about their dogs’ care providers, including their dog walkers.”

Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author and Certified Trick Dog Instructor. Sassafras lives and writes in Brooklyn with her partner, a senior Chihuahua mix, a rescued Shepherd mix, Newfoundland puppy, two bossy cats, and a semi-feral kitten.

The Best Dog Winter Coats and Jackets

By
Nancy Tucker, CDBC, CPDT-KA
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2

Selecting good dog jackets for winter can be as overwhelming as deciding what food to feed your dog or what type of collar or harness to use. There are so many styles, cuts, colors, fabrics, and functions!

This year, when Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns – a California native – needed a hand to sort through the best dog winter coats, I didn’t hesitate to say: “Leave it with me, I’ve got this!” As a Canadian living in the province of Quebec, I’m all too familiar with the criteria that winter dog jackets must meet to satisfy the needs of dogs living in a true northern climate.

The Best Dog Jackets for Winter: Our Selection Criteria

We asked dozens of dog-owner friends in northern climes for their winter dog coat recommendations and then chose the 10 most frequently cited “best” dog coats on the market to test.

Every season, northern-dwelling dog owners are faced with a mish-mash of winter weather: seriously sub-zero temperatures; wet, crusty, or powdery snow; ice; and even freezing rain. Regardless, we’re out there with our dogs, whether for a quick potty break or an afternoon of outdoor fun! A good dog winter coat will be designed to handle all the various elements. This versatility is specifically what I looked for when testing dog jackets for this review.

Hurtta Summit Parka
One of our Top-Rated Coats: Hurrta’s Summit Parka

To accomplish this, I tested the coats for warmth, water resistance, and the ability to put them on and take them off a dog easily. I also looked for comfort – the fit and fabric that best allowed ease of movement for active dogs.

Most of the products I reviewed are pricey. Admittedly, I wasn’t looking for a bargain. If you’re out with your dog in a seriously cold winter climate, you need serious gear.

A final note before we describe the coats we tested. We selected and tested 10 coats, but one (RC Pet’s Skyline Puffy Vest) was discontinued between the time of our tests and publication of this issue, so only nine are included in this review.

The Best Winter Coats for Dogs (Our 4-Paw Favorites)

All of the dog winter coats we selected to review came well-recommended by friends, so it stands to reason that all of the products in this review will receive favorable ratings. (Believe us, there are countless crummy coats out there; we couldn’t begin to list them all.) But of course, we developed our own favorites among the products we tested.

 

Hurtta Extreme Warmer
Hurtta Extreme Warmer

Top Pick: Hurtta Extreme Warmer

Let’s start with our favorite. The interior of the Hurtta Extreme Warmer coat is lined with reflective material designed to conserve body heat, allowing for a design that’s lightweight and not at all bulky. We love this stuff. (In fact, our extreme winter coat is lined with the same material, and we can comfortably wear just a t-shirt beneath it even in sub-zero temperatures.)

There is a soft, lightweight neck warmer, also lined with reflective material and fully adjustable. The coat is easy to put on and take off, but must be fitted over the dog’s head. We noted that the neck warmer is like a long, loose turtleneck, making a good over-the-head fit imperative. This can be a problem for dogs who are sensitive to fitting their head through things. But for those who are fine with it, the neck warmer is a very good feature on the Hurtta dog coat.

The back is adjustable for length, and once the perfect length is acquired, the bottom “skirt” can be secured with a snap several inches below the dog’s tail. This prevents the back of the coat from slipping sideways off the loin (lower back).

There are also leg straps like you’d find on a horse blanket, and while they are made of a soft, stretchy fabric, we can see how they might cause some discomfort for an intact male dog. The good news is that they don’t appear to be mandatory. The coat easily stays in place without them.

There are two slits on the back for both a collar and a harness attachment – a feature that many coats lack. Each slit is covered with a little flap to prevent snow or rain from easily getting inside the coat.

The front skirt and chest protector are both very well-designed and allow for full range of shoulder and leg motion.

The outside of the coat is lined with reflective strips for nighttime safety, and since darkness falls around 4 p.m. during the winter months, this is a very handy feature.

Best Dog Coat for Active Dogs: Chilly Dogs’ Great White North Coat

Of all of the coats we tested, this coat offers the best range of motion for the dog, making it a great candidate for highly active dogs.

It slips over the head and has two adjustable points at the waist, one made with hook-and-loop (Velcro-like) fastener and the other with straps. The hook-and-loop patches are very wide, making the adjustment options more flexible. On the down side, a larger hook-and-loop patch also makes more noise. We’d suggest doing some prep work with your dog to help him make a positive association with the sound before placing the coat on his body.

The coat is lightweight, waterproof on the outside, and lined on the inside with a synthetic fleece. It includes reflective tubing for nighttime safety. The full front design keeps belly fur nice and dry. The only part of the coat that isn’t waterproof is the fleece neck warmer, which would get soaked in rain.

The range of sizing is one of the best on the market – it will fit little dogs just as well as large dogs. The company is reputed for their excellent customer service when it comes to selecting the correct size.

There are no slits for a collar or harness, and when contacted about this, the company explained that wearing a harness beneath the coat tends to negatively affect how well the coat stays in place on the dog.

Chilly Dogs Great White North
Chilly Dogs Great White North

Another Terrific Coat From Hurtta: The Summit Parka

The Summit Parka (shown in the first image above) is the next best thing to Hurtta’s headliner, The Extreme Warmer (our top pick). It’s very lightweight and the interior is lined with soft fleece.

The collar is worn high and acts as a neck warmer. It’s adjustable in two spots. Like the Extreme Warmer, this Hurtta coat is easy to put on and take off, but must be pulled on over the dog’s head.

The back is adjustable for length and covers a dog’s behind nicely, although there’s nothing to secure it in place once it’s adjusted (except those stretchy leg straps we’re not big fans of). The overall design of this dog winter coat covers the chest and tummy well, and allows for full range of motion for the active dog.

There’s a single slit on the back for a harness attachment, covered with a flap to keep your dog’s back dry. The flap is semi-sealable with a couple of well-positioned snaps.

Mountain Mutt Powershield winter coat
Mountain Mutt Powershield Winter Coat

Mountain Mutt Dog Coats’ Powershield Winter Coat

The Powershield is super lightweight and flexible. It goes on like a horse blanket – a convenient option for those dogs who aren’t keen on fitting their heads through things. It attaches with hook-and-loop fasteners on the front and underneath at the dog’s tummy level. The collar can be folded down or straightened to keep the back of the neck warm.

The coat model we tested has a wide opening at collar-level for leash attachment.

We sent Mountain Mutt our test dog’s measurements, and the company suggested that our dog would be best suited by a “Medium” size. But the coat we tested rested a little too low on the shoulders and restricted movement on our model. Fortunately, Mountain Mutt provides free alteration of the coats to ensure a perfect fit (shipping cost not included). The company also offers custom made coats for dogs whose body shapes are proportionately different from their in-stock sizes.

Pomppa Toppa Pomppa
Pomppa Toppa Pomppa

Our Last 4-Paw Pick: Pomppa’s Toppa Pomppa

The Toppa Pomppa is made for serious cold (we wouldn’t expect anything else from a company based in Finland, with its very long and very cold winters!). The coat is very warm and covers the entire body really well. It allows for great range of motion – there’s lots of space for shoulders to move – and stays put even on highly active dogs.

The coat features reflective piping and a split in the back of the skirt for the dog’s tail. It’s easy to adjust with a single strap, and the folded collar can be lifted to protect the neck against the wind.

There’s a handy slit at the collar level for leash attachment. It’s a bit noisy and bulky, but again – this one’s made for serious cold.

The Other Dog Jackets Tested:

3-Paw Products

The next set of coats are also very nice products, but each presented us with something that made them less than ideal, in our estimation.

Chilly Dogs Trailblazer
Chilly Dogs Trailblazer

Chilly Dogs’ Trailblazer

The Trailblazer is similar to the Chilly Dogs coat to which we gave a four-paw rating (the Great White North) in that the majority of it is waterproof, it’s super lightweight, and has reflective tubing. The difference is that the Trailblazer has a single hook-and-loop attachment (no straps or clips), the dog’s belly is partially covered, and only the front of the neck is made of stretchy fleece (it’s not a full neck warmer).

It fits a little low on the shoulders and doesn’t provide as great a range of motion as the Great White North. Our model wasn’t particularly comfortable in the Trailblazer, and she normally wears anything! We are certain we used the correct size for her. This one also requires a harness to be fitted over it, as there are no collar or harness slits. Still, it’s a good quality coat.

Ruffwear’s Quinzee

Ruffwear Quinzee
Ruffwear Quinzee

The Quinzee offers a unique feature: It can be folded into a little built-in pouch, making it the only packable coat we tested. The polyester fabric and synthetic insulation make it very lightweight. There’s a bit of reflective piping, one strip on the front of the neck and one on the rear. There’s also a loop built into the back of the neck to attach a safety light sold by Ruffwear.

There’s a small zipper on the neck, facilitating getting the coat on and off. The adjustable waist strap is so neatly tucked into the design that we almost missed noticing it!

The coat feels a little stiff; it doesn’t move side to side with the dog’s rear end. The interior is also lined with a polyester fabric, which seemed to contribute to the overall “noisiness” of the coat. Sound-sensitive dogs might balk at wearing it (or even just having it put on). There are no openings for a harness or collar, and the length of the coat’s collar would necessitate attaching the dog’s collar very high on his neck.

2-Paw Products

It feels a little harsh to rate these coats with only two paws, because, after all, we did find them to be quite useful for some applications. But each had a few more faults or quirks than the higher-rated coats.

Foggy Mountain Dog Coats’ Nylon Turnout Coat

The Nylon Turnout Coat is like a mini horse blanket, complete with criss-cross elastic belly straps and surcingle buckles. It’s super easy to put on and take off and doesn’t require a dog to fit his head through anything. There’s an additional hook-and-loop attachment on the front across the chest.

A D-ring on the back looks like it might be intended for a leash attachment. We looked at this from every angle and feel that it’s not trustworthy in that capacity, as a dog can successfully back out of the coat if determined enough, leaving you with a leash attached to an empty coat. It also wouldn’t be recommended for dogs who pull on leash, as the coat is only held together in the front by the hook-and-loop patch.

The coat provides lots of warmth across the back and sides, but as a trade-off, it’s a bit bulky, heavy, and not very flexible. While it’s a very good-looking coat, and would help warm a sedentary dog, it’s not ideal for an active dog.

Foggy Mountain Nylon Turnout Coat
Foggy Mountain Nylon Turnout Coat

Muttluk’s Belted Coat

The Belted Coat is thick and warm, albeit a little bulky. It goes on like a blanket (again, a plus for dogs who are concerned about gear that goes over their heads). It’s secured by two buttons on the front and an adjustable belt around the tummy. There are two built-in leg straps made of plain elastic, which our model found irritating.

The length of the coat is good, but the coat wouldn’t stay in position on our model without the use of the pesky elastic leg straps. The chest and upper part of the tummy are well-covered to conserve warmth. There’s a slit on the back at collar-level for leash attachment.

Muttluk Belted Coat
Muttluk Belted Coat

Related Article:

Does My Dog Need a Coat?

Nancy Tucker, CPDT-KA, is a full-time trainer, behavior consultant, and seminar presenter in Quebec, Canada.

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