As I may have already said about a dozen times lately, I have been fostering some puppies for my local shelter. Usually, this is a matter of taking them in when they are quite young, getting them safely through whatever ails them – often a cocktail of internal parasites and tummy troubles – and socializing them with anyone I can drag over to my house to play, until they are old enough and healthy enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery. At that point, I take them to the shelter, weep as I kiss them all goodbye, and then watch the happy adoption announcements appear on the shelter website over the next day or so as they all find homes.
This bunch has been different, and I’m so sad and frustrated about it!
The shelter broke up this litter of 10 into two groups, and altered the four largest, healthiest puppies first; this happened two weeks ago. Those four puppies went up for adoption while I was out of town for six days, and every day while I was gone, I checked the shelter website to see who got adopted. Not ONE got adopted!
So when I got back, I picked up the puppies, bathed them (stinky from staying at the shelter), gave them a glorious morning of play with my dog Woody, and settled into a routine of bringing them to the shelter each morning when the kennels open for viewing at 10 a.m., and picking them up each day when the shelter closes, so they can spend their evenings running around the backyard and nights indoors. This way, they are nice and tired (and well-behaved) at the shelter, not whiny or barky or jumpy, and they don’t smell like they have been walking and sitting in urine. I also work with them for a few minutes several times each morning and evening, and they have “sit” on cue (and offer it every time you so much as look at them), and their recall is truly a delight…
Still no takers.
Then I made and posted a short little video, showing how cute they are, and posted it on the shelter’s Facebook page. Within a day, two of them got adopted, and I was psyched. And then… crickets again. I have been bringing the other two altered puppies to and from the shelter daily, and they are champions at hopping into the car and riding nicely – but we seem no closer to getting them adopted than we were two weeks ago.
And, here is the worse news: The other six puppies, who have been in the capable hands of a good friend here in town for the past few weeks, are being altered today. So we will be providing pickup and drop-off service for eight pups until these guys get adopted.
I think there are a few reasons for the slow adoption rate of this litter. First, the shelter has had a little glut of puppies lately. The last two of another litter of 10 pit-mix pups are also awaiting adoption. A litter of nine Boxer-mix puppies are already being shown on the adoption row, and getting altered next week. And there are several other individual pups awaiting adoption. My community seems to have absorbed all the puppies they can for a while; we have to reach out to a wider circle. (And to that end, I will be taking more portraits and videos of the pups and adding longer descriptions of them to the Petfinder.com page for the shelter.)
Also, this litter is of pitbull and, reportedly, German Shepherd heritage. The shelter staff saw the mom; she was a pit-mix, so they absolutely need to represent the pups as such, even if they don’t look very “pittie.” Most of the pups look more like German Shepherds … but they all have some variation of a brindle coat. I don’t know about you, but in my experience, dogs with brindle coats get adopted at a slower rate than the dog most people say has the hardest time getting adopted: black dogs. I just don’t see the black dog bias in my area – but we also get a lot of black Labrador-mixes around here, and people snap them up. One friend wondered if the pups’ brindle coats make them look dirty, and thus, off-putting. I don’t know!
I do know that people who like pitbulls or want one, generally want a pitbull that looks like a pitbull – and these pups look more like Shepherds. And yet, I wonder if people who might want a German Shepherd-type dog are being put off by the fact that the mom was a pitbull-type. It’s all guessing; I just don’t know! They are so sweet and so smart! What’s the problem??
Anyway, sorry for whining so much; I hope I won’t still be talking about these pups for more than another few weeks. My dog food budget can’t take too much more of this!
But on the other hand, I get puppy breath infusions daily. So there is that, and it does help compensate.
Dogs are usually active, enthusiastic household members, and as a result, they are prone to injuries. These can range from muscle strains to broken bones to systemic infections.
When your dog is limping it’s time to consult with a veterinarian. They may have you rest your dog and monitor at home for 24-48 hours depending on the severity of the problem. If the limp doesn’t improve or worsens, they will likely have you come in for an appointment.
It is important to remember not to use over-the-counter remedies for pain in this case. While aspirin and acetaminophen (Tylenol) can be used safely in dogs, improper dosing can lead to bleeding problems and liver failure. Never use these medications without first consulting your veterinarian.
Only A Vet Can Determine Why Your Dog is Limping
When you see the vet, a thorough physical examination is necessary to determine the cause of your dog’s limp. A head-to-toe examination should include vital signs, palpation of lymph nodes, auscultation of the heart and lungs, handling of the painful limb, and observation of your dog at a walk. It is important to isolate which limb and which area of the limb is affected, as this can help determine possible causes.
Causes of dog limping are extremely varied. Broad categories include soft tissue strains or tears (ligaments, tendons, and muscles), infectious diseases such as Ehrlichia and Lyme disease, inflammatory conditions such as panosteitis, vascular conditions like blood clots, and orthopedic problems such as fractures. Further, these can be divided between front limbs and rear limbs. Most lameness problems are similar between the front and back legs, but there are some specific problems such as a torn cranial cruciate ligament that can only happen in the rear leg.
The inciting cause can often be narrowed down with a history as well as the age and breed of your dog (this is called the signalment). For instance, a German shepherd puppy with acute onset of shifting leg lameness would be a strong suspect for panosteitis—a common inflammatory condition of the breed. An older dog with a sudden, painful, non-weight bearing lameness of one leg would raise suspicion for a bone tumor like osteosarcoma and a resulting fractured bone. A young limping Coonhound with a history of tick exposure, fever, and abnormalities on bloodwork might be suffering from Rocky Mountain spotted fever, a frequently encountered tick-borne illness.
Tests for Limping Dogs and Treatment
Depending on what your veterinarian finds, they may recommend several different tests including bloodwork, tick disease testing, and/or x-rays. They will also decide on the best treatment options.
Common medications used in the management of pain related to dog limping include the NSAID family of drugs (non-steroid anti-inflammatory drugs) such as carprofen, meloxicam, firocoxib, and deracoxib. These are very effective for controlling pain, have been in use for a long time in veterinary medicine, and have a well-known side effect profile.
There is a new medication called Galliprant that is available for management of pain. While technically it is an NSAID, it has a more specific area of activity in inflammation and has less reported side effects. Tramadol is another medication that may be prescribed. Whether this is effective for pain control has been recently debated in veterinary medicine, so it should never be used as the only pain relief.
Your veterinarian will also prescribe resting your dog. This will include minimal exercise—leash walks only for bathroom purposes. In some cases, icing or applying heat can help. The best approach depends on the cause.
Things to Remember When Your Dog is Limping
If your dog begins to limp, check in with your veterinarian, rest your dog to allow recovery, and avoid over-the-counter medications without first consulting your vet. The causes of limping are vast and varied, and with the guidance of a thorough history and physical exam, your vet should be able to help your canine companion.
Like most dog owners, my dogs top the list of things I have to deal with when I come home from a trip. I was away from home for five nights and six days, having traveled to Memphis for the Association of Professional Dog Trainers‘ annual conference (which was awesome), and then one extra night in San Diego, to watch my son compete in the national championship for his sport (which was not quite as fun; his team lost in the finals and he got a minor concussion!).
I landed at the Sacramento Airport on Sunday night at around 10 p.m. By the time I got my bags, took a shuttle to my car in the long-term lot, and got onto the highway, it was about 11. By the time I got home, after 12.
My husband was asleep on the couch, “waiting up” for me. He was awakened rudely by the loud thumping of Woody’s tail, which strongly whacked everything he walked by – the fridge, the door, the washing machine (I left my bags in the laundry area). My husband grumbled a greeting and went to bed. I stayed up for a bit, unwinding from the road and letting Woody help unpack my suitcase. I had bought a bunch of fleecy toys from a booth at the conference (at an irresistible special price!) and he found each and every one and took them out of my suitcase. He also sniffed long and hard at the sample bags of dog treats that had been in the conference registration bag. “Hey! Mom! Look! Candy!” All those got zipped back into my suitcase once my clothes were sorted out; I would take them to the office the next day.
I woke up Monday morning at 7 a.m. Central time – otherwise known at 5 a.m. Pacific time. I got up, and took a stroll with Woody around our property, throwing what’s left of his favorite $17 ball. My husband played fetch with Woody a lot while I was gone, to keep Woody’s energy in check, but he often forgets to take away the ball after the last throw. These Planet Dog Squeak balls are like crack for Woody – he loves them like no other. They last a loooong time – but only if I don’t let Woody have unsupervised time with the ball. The balls hold up well to bouncing, getting caught, and the incidental chewing that happens while Woody brings it back, but it can’t take the intense, extended chewing of an unsupervised dog with massive, strong jaws. I made a mental note to add a new one to my next online food order.
A friend was hosting six of the 10 foster puppies I had been caring for all month; on the day I left town, I had left the four largest puppies at the shelter. They had spay/neuter surgery on Wednesday and went on the adoption row on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Disappointingly, not one had been adopted. Puppies usually fly off the shelves at my shelter, but we have had several large litters up for adoption recently. Dang! Born into a puppy glut. The shelter is closed on Sunday, so my friend had picked up the four who had been altered, so they could have Saturday night, all day Sunday, and Sunday night outside and in a home environment.
So as soon as the sun came up, I drove over to her house to pick up the four pups who had been altered and bring them back to my house. Woody and I then led them all over the property and got them good and tired before delivering them back to the shelter at 10 a.m., when the kennels open for adoption hours. This way, they sleep all day at the shelter, instead of getting stressed and whiny.
I had left Otto with my sister Pam and her husband, so he could be spoiled at their house while I was gone. At my house, Otto sleeps on either a big, comfy dog bed or the couch. At my sister’s house, he has staked out the extra high, extra plush, queen-sized bed in her guest room as his very own. My sister reports with glee, “He sleeps with his head on the pillows, even!” Personally, I think he likes it because it’s the only place my sister’s little dogs can’t reach; he doesn’t like being touched while he sleeps.
Pam has Mondays off, so she brought Otto to my office shortly after I got back from dropping off the puppies at the shelter. I got to greet Otto as Woody greeted my sister, holding his face in my hands and kissing his forehead, which he likes. Then he grumbled as Woody excitedly greeted him. “Get out of my face you dithering idiot!” he roared. But his tail was wagging.
Ah…everyone back where they are supposed to be – at least until we can get all of these foster pups adopted. Travel is fun, but getting home to my dogs is the best.
It’s that time of year again. Runny noses and sneezes abound for us humans, as new plants bloom in the fall. But did you know that your dog can have a runny nose too? Dog runny noses are more correctly called nasal discharge. It can run the gamut from clear and watery to thick and purulent. The appearance and frequency of nasal discharge in dogs can tell you much about the underlying cause.
Could My Dog Have Allergies? In Short, Yes.
A thin, watery discharge without color or odor is likely a sign of mild irritation in the nasal cavities. This can occur with seasonal allergies or other causes of inflammation within the nose such as an inhaled foreign object (grass and seeds). In some cases, antihistamines will clear up the discharge without further incident. Dogs do sometimes respond to environmental allergens just as humans do—with red, watery eyes, sneezing, and a runny nose.
More Serious Causes of Dog Runny Noses
In cases where the discharge is thick, has odor, or discoloration with blood or pus, more serious causes are suspected. If this is the case, your veterinarian will do a thorough investigation of your dog’s recent history (any history of kennel boarding, grooming, dog park visits, or doggy daycare? Any exposure to dogs otherwise?) and a physical exam. They will also review your dog’s vaccination status to make sure that they are current.
Once the initial history and exam are finished, your veterinarian will discuss possible causes of your dog’s runny nose. If both nostrils are involved, the causes are frequently different than if only one nostril. Both nostrils points to a more generalized cause while one nostril points to a localized source. If the discharge is clear, thin, and watery, your veterinarian may try antihistamines and monitoring at home for any other signs. If none develop, and your dog seems otherwise healthy, it may be normal for a small amount of discharge to occur. No further treatment may be needed.
If the discharge continues or worsens, then more diagnostics are needed. In the case of unilateral discharge (one nostril involved), the causes could include an inhaled foreign body such as grass or grass awns leading to rhinitis, a fungal infection, or a nasal tumor. Your veterinarian will likely try a course of antibiotics. If no response occurs, then the next step is generally a rhinoscopy. In this procedure, your dog will be anesthetized, a camera will be inserted into the nostril to look at the area, and samples will be taken for culture and biopsy. In some cases, a CT scan of the head is needed to make a definitive diagnosis.
If both nostrils are involved, this points to a more generalized problem such as a viral or bacterial infection. Dogs are prone to both especially if they board at a kennel, visit the dog park, or go to grooming facilities.
Canine influenza is becoming more common in the dog population. In this case, concurrent with the runny nose would be a fever, sneezing and coughing, lethargy, and often lack of appetite. Pneumonia is a possible side effect. Canine kennel cough, a common bacterial complex, can also cause a nasal discharge. This generally occurs when the disease progresses to pneumonia.
Summary
In the case of a dog with no other symptoms and some clear nasal discharge, a runny nose is not cause for immediate concern. It is when your pet develops other symptoms such as red, watery eyes, sneezing, coughing, fever, lack of appetite, or lethargy that a trip to the veterinarian is warranted.
This year, we’re going to make it super simple. On this page, we’re going to show you how to read labels on cans of wet dog food so you can interpret the most important nutritional information canned dog food supplies. On this page, we list of a bunch of companies that make canned foods that range from really good to really great. If you choose products from this list and use the information we are about to share with you to analyze and compare them, you will absolutely have what you need to find a number of healthy canned foods for your dog.
Canned Dog Food Labels: The Big Stuff
There are eight things required by law on a canned dog food label. The front label must contain the brand and product name, species for which the food is intended, and the quantity statement (how much is in the can). The next five requirements may appear on the back or back and side labels.
Many consumers don’t think very critically when it comes to the front label. If they see beautiful roasted chickens or grilled steaks, and fresh-scrubbed carrots or glistening apples, they may imagine that’s what’s in the food. But you really have to compare the art with the ingredients list (discussed in detail below).
What’s far more important than the pictures is the verbiage used on the front. If the name of an ingredient is used in the product name (such as “Chicken & Rice Formula”), that named ingredients must comprise at least 70% of the total product by weight and at least 95% of the product not counting added water in the food. When more than one ingredient is in the name, no ingredient can be less than 3% the total product by weight. Because chicken is listed first in the name, there must be more chicken than rice in the recipe.
When the words “dinner,” “platter,” and “entrée” are used, a different rule is at work. The named ingredient in the phrase (for example, the “beef” in “Beef Dinner”) must comprise a minimum of 25% of the total ingredients.
If the word “with” is used (e.g., “Billy’s Dog Food With Chicken and Eggs”) the food is required to contain at least 3% of each named ingredient.
And if the word “flavor” is used, the requirement is that the food simply contain something that could convey that flavor; there is no minimum amount required.
The fourth requirement is the nutritional adequacy statement. Get out the magnifying glass! The “AAFCO statement” is very small on most labels, but contains very important information about which nutritional requirements the product has met.
AAFCO stands for “Association of American Feed Control Officials.” It is not a regulatory body, but it developed the nutritional standards used by all states. Somewhere on the label, usually very tiny, each dog food will state whether it is “complete and balanced” (or for “supplemental or intermittent feeding”), and whether this has been confirmed by a “feeding trial” or if it was formulated to meet certain nutritional standards. There are pros and cons of each method of confirmation.
Who is it for? The AAFCO statement will also specify who the food is meant for. All foods that are sold as “complete and balanced” must meet either the nutritional requirements for “growth and reproduction” (i.e., puppies) or the slightly lower requirements for “adult maintenance.” If a food says it can be fed to dogs “of all life stages,” it has met the higher nutritional requirements for a puppy food. Nutritionally, there is no difference between a food that meets the requirements for “all life stages” and a so-called puppy food – “all life stages” includes “growth and reproduction.” The kibble size of a “puppy” food might be smaller, but this is not a requirement!
However, if a food says it is complete and balanced for “adult maintenance,” it will not meet the higher nutritional needs of puppies.
Organic Dog Food
Organic claims are strictly defined. If the USDA Organic seal is present on the label, the product must contain a minimum of 95% organic ingredients.
The USDA’s National Organic Program regulates all organic crops, livestock, and agricultural products certified to the USDA’s organic standards. Organic certifiers inspect and verify compliance, and the certifier of each product must appear on the label, too. The USDA also conducts audits, investigations, and enforcement activities to ensure all products labeled organic meet its regulations.
If a product label says, “Made with organic ingredients,” the food must contain at least 70% organic ingredients, must state the certifier, and may not use the USDA Organic seal. If it specifies an ingredient that is organic (“Made with organic chicken”), all of the chicken in the product must be organic.
More Required Information
Dog food labels must bear the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor (requirement #5). We prefer the label to also contain the company’s phone number, but this is not required.
The “feeding directions” also must appear on the label (requirement #6). The statement must include the recommended amount of food to feed relative to the dog’s weight. This is calculated by a standard formula that says dogs require so many calories per pounds of body weight, but given the range of canine activity and metabolic rates, it can’t really be considered much more than a starting place. It is always necessary for owners to adjust their dogs’ rations based on how the dogs look and feel.
Dog Food Info That Matters Most: Guaranteed Analysis and…
The last two label requirements are the most critical. The “guaranteed analysis” (GA, requirement #7) gives you the minimum amount of protein and fat that are present in the food; they may be more, but there has to be at least that much. The GA also provides the maximum amount of moisture (water) and fiber that are present in the food.
Why the minimums and maximums? They use minimums for protein and fat because those are the most important values in a dog’s food; it’s what you are paying for. And they use maximums for moisture and fiber because this is not what you want to pay for – even though, with canned food, you actually are paying for a lot of it: Most canned dog foods contain about 78% to 85% moisture.
The fiber content of canned foods varies even more widely. Keep in mind that dogs have no dietary requirement for carbohydrates; they can live just fine on fat and protein alone. Canned foods that contain no carbohydrate source whatsoever will be pretty low in fiber – like, 1% maximum. In our opinion, there are better and far less expensive ways to supply your dog with fiber than in his canned food! It makes far more sense to use a canned dog food as a good source of protein and fat, and supply him with as much fiber as he may need to maintain a healthy weight and produce healthy stools through another source, such as fresh cooked or canned pumpkin, home-cooked grains (such as oatmeal, quinoa, or rice), home-cooked vegetables, or a dry dog food.
A final note on the GA:Manufacturers may (but are not required to) include other nutrient values on the GA. By doing so, they are literally guaranteeing those amounts in the food, and this is subject to testing and enforcement by state feed control officials. It’s a good way for a pet food maker to put their money where their mouths are concerning claims of special benefit from the inclusion of certain nutrients, such as DHA or glycosaminoglycans (e.g., chondroitin).
It’s a beautiful morning. You roll out of bed, stretch, yawn, get up to make some coffee…and step in a puddle of dog pee. Now that you think about it, your dog has been having some accidents in the house recently. It’s not like your canine companion to suddenly have the urge to go wherever, whenever. Could your dog’s frequent peeing be illness-related?
Increased urinary accidents in the house can point to a health issue and should not be ignored. It could be something as treatable as a simple urinary tract infection or it could be more serious. When you notice that your dog is urinating more, it is important to observe what is happening so that a veterinarian can help you sort out the cause.
With that said, how many times a day should a dog urinate? The truth is, it varies. Large breed dogs may only go every 6-8 hours, while a smaller dog may need to pee more often. As a general rule, every 4-8 hours is normal. Most dogs can hold urine overnight.
Phawat Topaisan
What Causes Frequent Urination in Dogs?
To gain more information, watch your dog closely when outside on walks. Many of us let our dogs outside in a fenced yard without direct supervision. Walk with your dog and scrutinize urinary behavior. Is your dog squatting often but only passing a small amount of urine, or is it large puddles each time? Is your dog straining during urination? Is there blood? This information is very helpful in determining the cause.
After a few walks, it’s time to call the veterinarian. During an examination, several things will happen. Your veterinarian should take a thorough history on your pet that includes vaccination status, previous illnesses including urinary tract infections, any medications your dog takes (this DOES include over-the-counter supplements and non-prescription medications such as Benadryl), diet, and possible exposures to any toxins. After this, a head-to-toe examination is in order.
If the symptoms your dog exhibits are straining to urinate, frequent, small accidents or repeated, small puddles when going outdoors, a likely cause is a lower urinary tract issue such as a bladder infection, bladder stones, or cystitis (bladder inflammation). Diagnostics will include a urine sample, urine culture, and possibly x-rays of the bladder. Some breeds such as Schnauzers are more prone to certain lower urinary tract issues like bladder stones.
If the symptoms are large puddles of urine frequently with increased drinking, this is referred to as polyuria/polydipsia or “PU/PD.” These symptoms require a much more thorough diagnostic approach. Your veterinarian will likely recommend bloodwork, urinalysis, and abdominal xrays to start. PU/PD has a host of causes ranging from metabolic diseases like kidney failure or Cushing’s disease to toxin exposure and elevated blood calcium levels.
This isn’t an easy question to answer unfortunately. It does appear that there is a relationship between spaying (called an OHE) and the development of urinary incontinence. It tends to happen within about 3 years after the spay is done and in dogs > 45 lbs. (though any size dog can be affected). The exact cause is unknown. Age of the dog at OHE may play a role, but this is controversial. When deciding a time to spay your female, it is best to have a frank discussion with your veterinarian and weigh the benefits and risks of timing.
Is My Dog Urine Marking?
In some cases, urination in the house can be a marking behavior. This tends to be in unaltered animals, particularly males. It would be unusual for a neutered male or female to suddenly start marking territory, although it does happen – often with the introduction of new pets into the household.
Summary
A sudden change in a dog’s urinary habits is always a cause for further investigation. Monitor your dog’s bathroom breaks, then schedule an appointment. Your veterinarian will help determine the cause through a history and physical exam, as well as diagnostic testing. What may seem like a “wee” problem could be something serious, so speak with your veterinarian if you have any concerns.
For many of us who love dogs, our canine family members are a lot like potato chips – we can’t have just one. There are so many dogs out there, each with love to share and insights to offer, each needing love and care, that the idea of restricting ourselves to a single canine companion is simply unthinkable. Our four-legged pals complement each other’s strengths and weaknesses, and fill our hearts and homes with joy and love (and fur).
Of course, the joy of caring for and loving multiple canines brings with it a whole host of potential challenges as well. Fortunately, it’s possible to live with, manage, and/or overcome most of them.
Recently, for the first time in more than 40 years, my husband and I were unexpectedly a one-dog household. Kai, our Kelpie, seemed lost and confused at first, and then appeared to warm to the idea. No competition for resources – “The bed is all mine! The human attention is all mine! The chewies are all mine!” But for me, the house was painfully quiet and empty. My heart ached.
Then we added Sunny, a one-year-old Pomeranian-mix, to the family. Introductions went smoothly, and Kai, with his soft, deferent personality, soon resigned himself to the fact that he was going to be pushed around by this new upstart, who is 10 pounds lighter and three years his junior.
I was overjoyed to have another canine to have, hold, brush, feed, and train. I grin at the canine chaos in our barn as the two roughhouse in the aisle and chase each other in high-speed circles around our riding arena. I love having a dog to warm each side of me on the sofa.
Still, I had forgotten how bringing an additional dog into our home could complicate things. The baby gates came back out. We put up an exercise pen in the bedroom. I’m once again playing traffic cop at feeding time. We watch closely for any signs that the apparent harmony between the two (for which we are immensely grateful) might have fractures. We scratch our heads when there’s a break in housetraining and try to figure out who the culprit is. And we thank our lucky stars that things are going as smoothly as they are.
Managing Multiple Dogs
My husband and I have lived with as many as five dogs at various times, so a lot of the steps needed to ensure harmony among multiple dogs are second nature to us. For those of you who are newer to multi-dog living, or struggling with canine sibling issues, here are a dozen tips to help you and your dogs survive and succeed in a multiple-dog household:
1. Careful Introductions
If you are bringing a new canine family member into your home, careful introductions can set the stage for a successful future. If your dogs have a positive association from their first introduction, it greatly decreases the potential for future problems. If, however, that first introduction goes badly and your dogs have a negative opinion of each other from the start, you could be playing catch-up and repairing bridges for a long, long time.
2. Listen With Your Eyes
If you are a good observer of canine body language, you will be able to see subtle tensions between your dogs before they erupt into all-out war. It is much easier to de-escalate brewing trouble before it happens than to try to fix relationships after they are significantly damaged.
3. Manage, Manage, Manage
Again, prevention is a gazillion times better than cure. Until you are absolutely 100 percent sure your dogs are perfectly compatible, keep them separated when you’re not there to monitor their interactions. If they’ve gotten along well in the past but for some reason tension is starting to appear, keep them separated when you aren’t there to monitor – and take steps to figure out why the relationship is deteriorating. Add management measures anytime the need arises.
Management is for more than just tamping down the potential for aggression. Manage over-the-top play by giving your dogs time to enjoy freedom in the house in shifts. Manage the incidents of trash-trolling (especially when you don’t know which dog is responsible) by purchasing trash cans that can’t be opened by dogs. Prevent the possible destruction of your favorite shoes by always remembering to put your shoes out of reach of all the dogs.
4. Exercise!
Those rowdy play sessions and chewed shoes? They are often an indication that your dogs aren’t getting enough exercise and their unused energy is getting them into trouble. Take time to make sure each dog gets adequate, plop-on-the-floor-exhausted aerobic exercise, ideally every day.
You may be able to play with all of your dogs as a group, but it might be more beneficial if you do individual playtime with each one. Note that a walk on leash is not adequate exercise for most dogs; it is an exercise appetizer at best. With our two human legs, we are slow and boring to our dogs – if they were off leash they would run miles for every mile we walk!
5. Brain Games
Brain games can be every bit as tiring as physical exercise. Along with puzzle toys, cognition exercises are another great way to tire out dogs and help you survive and enjoy the multi-dog experience.
6. Scent Work
While dogs are masters at using their noses and most dogs really enjoy a good opportunity to sniff, it is also surprisingly tiring for them to use their superior olfactory sense. One more excellent way to use up canine energy!
7. Alone Time
When you have more than one dog, it’s easy to fall into the habit of doing everything as a group. It will enhance your relationship with each individual – as well as benefit their relationships with each other, if you make the time to work with each dog individually on a regular basis. They will feel less of a need to compete for your attention if they each get their share of time alone with you, even if it’s just for a ride to get coffee or a walk down to the mailbox.
8. Train, Train, Train
I can’t say this loudly enough – the more dogs you have, the more important it is that each one is trained to respond to a healthy list of good manners cues. (This is also a great opportunity to get your “alone time” in – two birds with one stone!)
With our previous family of five dogs, I could ask them all to “Wait” at the door, and invite by name the one(s) I wanted to accompany me outside, while the others politely stayed indoors. They responded to my signals at dinner time so we didn’t have food wars, despite our Corgi’s eager willingness to do battle over resources. And when separation was needed, I could easily send them to their respective crates – a true sanity saver.
9. Zen Humans
The calmer you are around your dogs, the more you encourage them to be calm. If you see tension brewing, take a deep breath and intervene gently and cheerfully. If you leap in with a loud, intense “No! No! No!” you are more likely to send someone over threshold and trigger a conflict. Instead, calmly ask the more intense dog to do a behavior she loves, such as “Touch!” to shift her brain away from tension and emotion into positive association and thinking.
10. Protect the Vulnerable
Very old, young, small, sick, or disabled members of your canine family may be unable to defend themselves, especially if one or more of your dogs are determined to commit mayhem. You must keep such fragile members physically safe by separating them from the rest of the pack. This may be a temporary solution until the invalid has recovered enough to rejoin the group, or it may be a permanent fix if the size/strength disparity between participants is long term or the conflict too serious.
Baby dogs can be obnoxious, and it’s common and appropriate for an adult dog to reprimand bad puppy manners. However, some adults are far too vigorous with their reprimands and should not be allowed to terrorize the vulnerable pup.
Senior dogs also need to be protected. It’s not unusual for an aging senior whose senses are fading to lose the ability to perceive signals from other dogs or to move quickly enough if they do see the communication. Older dogs are often attacked because of this. Your 14-year-old Aussie may need to be kept safely separate from the rest of the group when you aren’t there to monitor. Protect the vulnerable.
11. See Your Veterinarian
Medical conditions can create or exacerbate tense dog-dog relations. A physical condition or illness that causes pain or discomfort to your dog is stressful. Arthritis in an aging dog can make her cranky, and Lyme disease can make any dog achey and quick to aggress. Two dogs who normally play well may suddenly end up fighting if one is in pain and believes that the other dog hurt her, even if that’s not the case or it wasn’t intentional.
Other medical conditions may be less obvious but still contribute to tension in your canine family. Ask your veterinarian for a full thyroid panel for any of your dogs who seem particularly anxious and aggressive. Thyroid levels that are on the low end of the scale but still within the clinically normal range can contribute to aggression.
12. Consider Quality of Life for All Family Members
If dynamics among your dogs are stressing you or your canine family so much that your (or their!) quality of life is poor, and if your efforts to improve relationships aren’t helping, then it’s time to consider other options.
First, seek out the assistance of a qualified force-free professional. She may be able to help resolve the issues that are making life difficult, and/or suggest additional management solutions that ease tensions for all. She may also suggest asking your veterinarian to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist to see if there are medications that can help the situation (many vet behaviorists offer this service to other veterinarians at no charge). Alternatively, she may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist for additional professional assistance.
Finding new homes for one or more of the troublemakers may alleviate the stress for the rest of the family, although finding homes for difficult dogs can be a challenge. You may choose to keep the more difficult one(s) and place one or more of the easy-going or vulnerable dogs with friends or family members. This could be a win-win for all, creating an extended family for your canine friends while making everyone’s life more peaceful.
All is Well
Dog lovers successfully care for multiple canines all the time, and much of the time it’s reasonably trouble-free. With good planning, good management, and good luck, you will hopefully find that is the case for your multi-dog household. It is always important to remember, however, that there is help available if it’s needed. In fact, I’m on my way out the door right now to see a client who is having challenges with her five-dog household, ranging in age from 15 weeks to 10 years. I’m looking forward to helping her find solutions that will work for her family.
Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Miller’s newest book is Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs.
The “Search!” game uses lots of energy and can tire out even very active dogs, and offers very practical applications as well. Start with treats, since most dogs will happily look for food. You can eventually ask your dog to look for hidden objects (favorite toys, your lost keys) and even hidden or missing humans! Here’s how to start:
Step 1: Have your dog sit and stay. (If he doesn’t know sit/stay, have someone hold his leash.)
Walk about six feet away, show him a treat, remind him to stay, and place the treat on the ground.
Return to his side (don’t let him get up yet!), turn and face the treat, then tell him “Search!” (If he won’t get up until you release him from the stay, say, “Search!” and then give your release cue.) He should run right out and eat the treat. Repeat a half-dozen times.
Step 2: Have your dog sit and stay.
Let him watch you “hide” a treat in plain view (next to a chair leg, by a waste basket, etc.).
Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treat, then tell him “Search!” He should run right out and eat the treat. Repeat a half-dozen times.
Step 3: Have your dog sit and stay.
Let him watch you hide several treats in plain view.
Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treats, rub one of the treats you’re using on a paper towel, hold the towel in front of his nose (don’t let him eat it!) and tell him “Sniff!” (Don’t worry if he doesn’t appear to sniff it.)
Then tell him “Search!” He should run right out and eat the treats. Repeat a half-dozen times, having him “Sniff” before each set.
Step 4: Have your dog sit and stay.
Let him watch you hide a treat where he can’t immediately see it (such as behind a chair leg). Note: It’s easier to find a treat on the ground and more difficult to find one on a raised surface.
Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treat, tell him “Sniff!” and then say “Search!” He may have more trouble finding this treat. Don’t help him! This is where he starts learning to use his nose. If you help him, he won’t use his nose. If he truly can’t find it, reset, and hide it in an easier spot. Make sure he watches you!
Repeat a half-dozen times. Gradually hide the treat in harder places, having him “Sniff” the paper towel before each set.
Step 5: Have your dog sit and stay.
Let him watch you hide two to three treats in somewhat easy places (behind a chair leg, etc.)
Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treats, then tell him “Search!” He may have more difficulty finding multiple treats. If necessary, indicate an area by spreading your arms and saying “Search here!” Don’t point to the treat! If he truly can’t find the treats, reset, and hide them in a slightly easier spot. Make sure he watches you!
Repeat a half-dozen times. Gradually hide treats in harder spots, having him “Sniff” the paper towel each time before you send him.
Step 6: Put your dog in another room.
Hide two to three treats in somewhat easy places.
Bring him back to the room, have him “Sniff!” the paper towel and then tell him “Search!”
Repeat a half-dozen times, doing “Sniff” each time.
Gradually hide treats in harder spots.
Step 7: Generalize his “Search” behavior to other objects as you desire, starting with a favorite toy. Rub the toy on the paper towel, and proceed as your dog needs. Start back at Step 1, placing the toy in plain view and move quickly through to Step 6.
Then use less favorite or neutral objects, starting at Step 1 and moving quickly to Step 6. For humans, have the object of your search rub a paper towel on his or her neck, and then have the person hide. Start with having the person “hide” in plain sight at first, and then in increasingly more hidden places. Start at Step 1, and move quickly through Step 6.
There are few things as frightening as watching your dog have a seizure. Yet seizure disorders are surprisingly common in canines. A seizure is defined as uncontrolled electrical activity in the brain. Seizures can run the gamut from very minor, focal seizures (a twitching of the face or a leg) to major convulsions in which a dog loses consciousness, may vocalize loudly, has uncontrolled muscle movements, and loses bowel and/or bladder control.
Types of Dog Seizures
A seizure or “ictus” is comprised of three phases. The pre-ictal phase can begin as much as 24 hours before a seizure and is not always obvious. Your dog may act strange during this period, but this is usually only recognized in retrospect. The second phase is ictus (the seizure itself). In the third, or post-ictal period, your dog is recovering from the seizure. It can be stressful and disturbing to witness, and it varies significantly between dogs. The post-ictal stage can include a deep sleep that lasts several hours to an entire day, confusion, and abnormal behavior, including ravenous hunger or complete anorexia, dilated pupils, and in some cases, blindness that will resolve. Your dog may be disoriented for a short time, but this period is otherwise not dangerous.
In the past, seizures have been categorized as grand mal (French meaning “great sickness”) or petit mal (“small sickness”). These terms are no longer used to describe seizure activity, as they are considered too vague. The more recent classifications are tonic-clonic, clonic, and tonic. Seizures can also be described as generalized, focal, or psychomotor.
In a tonic-clonic seizure, the first, very short phase is the tonic. The dog will suddenly stiffen and collapse if standing. Next is the clonic phase, in which the muscles contract and relax rapidly. This is the type of seizure with which most people are familiar. It is often called a convulsion and represents the most common, generalized seizure type in dogs.
A tonic seizure is usually brief (less than one minute) and involves a sudden stiffening of the muscles. This is a less common manifestation of a seizure disorder. A clonic seizure is rhythmic muscle jerking that generally starts in one area of the body. It is very rare and often associated with canine distemper virus. Both a tonic seizure and a clonic seizure can be generalized or focal.
Psychomotor seizures often manifest as unusual behavior, such as “flybiting” at the air or staring into space and not responding to cues. Sometimes, they are called “absence spells,” as the pet seems unaware and unresponsive to his surroundings.
Seizures can last from seconds to hours. When a seizure doesn’t stop after a few minutes, it is called status epilepticus. In this scenario, the body temperature will start to go up due to the repeated muscle contraction, and heat stroke can result. A dog’s body temperature can elevate to as high as 110 degrees or more if the seizure is not interrupted. Prolonged hypoxia (low oxygen) to the brain due to seizures can also cause damage. Status epilepticus is always an emergency.
Medical Emergency: Status Epilepticus
Status, as it’s commonly called, occurs when a seizure persists and will not stop without medical intervention. This is always an emergency and requires veterinary attention. Benzodiazepines like Valium will be given intravenously to stop the seizure. Your dog may need to be cooled to prevent heat stroke. He may need to stay on a continuous infusion of medications like Propofol (an anesthetic) to break the seizure cycle and allow recovery. This can take two to four days in some cases. The prognosis is guarded for recovery.
Dog Seizure Causes and Diagnostics
Causes of seizures can be divided by age group:
Dogs Less Than Six Months
A dog of this age with sudden onset of seizures likely has a congenital problem, infection with parasites such as Neospora, infection with a virus such as canine distemper or rabies, or toxin exposure. Epilepsy at this age is extremely rare.
The first step of evaluation is, as always, a thorough history. Puppies are prone to ingesting toxic substances such as rat baits and gum sweetened with xylitol. As a result, if your puppy presents with seizures, your veterinarian will recommend a thorough diagnostic work-up. This will start with a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel, urinalysis, and fecal examination.
Bloodwork will evaluate for metabolic causes of seizures, such as liver failure, electrolyte abnormalities, or low blood sugar. A urinalysis will help determine how the kidneys are functioning, as well as look for evidence of any inflammation or infection within the urinary tract. Your vet may also recommend specific blood tests to rule out parasites such as Neospora caninum and Toxoplasma gondii.
If those tests do not reveal a cause, your vet will refer you to a specialist for a cerebrospinal tap and imaging of the brain such as an MRI or CT scan. Because epilepsy is very rare in dogs this age, it is important to find the cause of the seizures. Without definitive diagnosis, the underlying condition is likely to worsen, as are the seizures.
If further testing is not financially possible, your veterinarian will start empirical treatment based on the suspected underlying cause. This may or may not be effective.
Dogs Aged Six Months to Five Years
Epilepsy becomes the most likely diagnosis in this age group when other causes are excluded. Epilepsy is not a disease per se. It is a description of seizure activity for which no underlying cause can be found.
A diagnosis of epilepsy cannot be made definitively until every other cause of seizures is ruled out. The tests needed to rule out an underlying cause can be expensive, however, so this diagnosis is often made based on breed, clinical signs, and response to treatment. Beagles, Schnauzers, Collies, Cocker Spaniels, and Basset Hounds are predisposed to epilepsy.
Your veterinarian will recommend the same set of diagnostic tests as for puppies and likely add a blood pressure measurement, thyroid levels, and x-rays of the chest and abdomen. If those are normal, the next steps are imaging of the brain as outlined above. In most cases, owners do not opt for the advanced testing and instead treat the suspected epilepsy with anti-epileptic drugs (AEDs).
Dogs Older Than Five Years
In dogs older than five, the most common cause of seizures is a brain tumor. These are generally benign tumors, such as meningiomas. Seizures can result from the tumor pressing on nearby structures as well as from swelling around the tumor.
The same diagnostic algorithm is followed as above, and again, many owners opt to merely treat the seizures without an in-depth exploration of the causes. While brain tumors are generally benign and can be removed via surgery, they are invasive and carry a guarded prognosis for recovery.
The causes of seizures are vast and varied. They can be broadly divided into extra-cranial (outside the brain) and intracranial (inside the brain).
Extra-cranial diseases include metabolic disease such as liver failure, toxin ingestion like xylitol or bromethalin rat poison, insulinoma (a tumor of the pancreas causing low blood sugar), infectious diseases like rabies and canine distemper virus, parasitic infection, and electrolyte derangements.
Intracranial causes are almost as varied and include cancer, inflammatory conditions such as necrotizing encephalomyelitis, previous head trauma leading to scar tissue formation within the brain, and vascular abnormalities like blood clots.
Dog Seizure Treatments
The first step in treatment may be nothing at all. If seizures are short and not frequent, treatment may not be necessary.
While they are difficult to witness, if the seizures are brief (under five minutes) and self-limiting, then they are not dangerous to your dog. In this case, your veterinarian may not prescribe medication but simply have you keep a “seizure journal.” This involves writing down when the seizures happen, what could have precipitated them (stress, anxiety, sleep), how long it lasted, and how long it takes your pet to recover. Your veterinarian will use this log to help dictate when to start treatment and what treatment to start.
In 2016, the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) released a consensus statement regarding when to start AED therapy. In general, if the seizures are mild and infrequent, therapy is not recommended. If they are severe and frequent, or the dog has a history of previous head trauma, or if there is an obvious lesion on CT/MRI (such as a brain tumor), AEDs should be started.
If the seizures are becoming a problem, medication is the first step. There are four commonly used AEDs in veterinary medicine, but more drugs are currently under study and are tentatively being used.
The most commonly prescribed first-line medication is phenobarbital, although this is slowly changing. “Pheno,” as it is frequently called, has long been used to treat seizures in humans and animals, so the effects and side effects are well-known, and the drug is readily available and inexpensive. It is also very effective. Unfortunately, it does have side effects such as sedation, weight gain, panting, increased appetite, and increased liver enzymes.
Phenobarbital is usually given twice a day and is a controlled substance under FDA regulations. It should not be stopped abruptly, as this can lead to more seizures. If you start administering this drug to your dog, make sure you are always prepared with refills before you run out! This will require at least a yearly examination with your veterinarian to maintain a valid client-patient relationship (VCPR).
Your veterinarian will also recommend monitoring of liver values and phenobarbital levels, likely on a bi-annual or annual schedule. This will help determine the effects that phenobarbital is having on your dog’s body. It will also assist your veterinarian in determining how much more (or less) phenobarbital your dog can receive.
About 30 percent of dogs will achieve good seizure control on phenobarbital. Greater than 75 percent will have a significant reduction in seizure frequency. About 30 percent of dogs will require an additional drug to control their seizures.
Historically, potassium bromide has been the next drug of choice. This is changing, as more and more veterinarians are becoming comfortable with and using newer AEDs. Potassium bromide also causes sedation and can be associated with pancreatitis, as well as a condition called bromism (bromide toxicity). It is being used less as newer drugs replace it.
The two newest AEDs are levetiracetam (Keppra) and zonisamide (Zonegran). Keppra has been used in humans in the U.S. for the past 10 years. It has very few known side effects and does not damage the liver. It is safe to use in patients with compromised kidney or liver function and does not generally cause drowsiness. It requires dosing every eight hours and can be expensive for larger dogs. An extended release formulation is sometimes available and can be given twice a day. It is also less cost effective. Unfortunately, there are few studies to evaluate how well it works in canines, so Keppra’s use is currently anecdotal. As time passes, there will likely be more evidence for its usage, more generics available, and a twice-daily formulation will become readily available.
Zonisamide is similar to Keppra. How it works to prevent seizures is not clear. It has possible side effects of sedation, decreased appetite, ataxia (wobbly walking), and might contribute to liver and urinary problems, though this has not been proven. It is also given twice a day.
In some cases, one drug can control seizure activity. In others, multiple seizure medications are needed.
Recently, a veterinary therapeutic diet was released by Purina that may significantly improve seizure control when given with medications. This diet uses medium chain triglycerides (MCTs) as the fat source. These MCTs have an anti-seizure effect and can improve control in conjunction with medication therapy.
Your veterinarian may send you home with an anti-seizure medication to apply into the rectum or nostrils if your dog has a seizure.
There are other, less mainstream treatment options such as vagal nerve stimulator implants. These are not commonly done and are only used in the most refractory cases.
Catherine Ashe is a 2008 graduate of the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine. After nine years in emergency medicine, she now works as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, North Carolina.
I’m writing this post from Memphis, Tennessee, where I am attending the 25th annual educational conference and trade show of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) – and where, tonight, the APDT is honoring Pat Miller with a Lifetime Achievement Award. The award honors APDT members who have made outstanding contributions to the association and to the dog training industry throughout their careers. Pat has been a member of the APDT since its infancy and was elected to its board in 2001 and as board president from 2002 through 2003. She’s also been a frequent presenter at its annual conferences.
I felt strongly compelled to make the journey to Memphis to see Pat honored in this way, because she’s been extremely important to WDJ from day one and remains so today. You can read more about her professional accomplishments in this press release from the APDT, but if you don’t mind, I’d like to tell you about why * I * appreciate Pat Miller.
I first “met” Pat in 1998 when I was helping the editor of an independent start-up publication called The Whole Horse Journal. Pat had written an article about using positive reinforcement – “clicker training” – to train horses. At the time, I was only helping the editor, Diana Thompson, with copyediting and production of the magazine, but I was impressed by Pat’s friendly, accessible, clear writing style and kind, humane advice about teaching new behaviors to horses. Her knowledge wasn’t just cutting-edge, it was light years ahead of most professionals in horse training, a field that has long been characterized by force-based training methods, passed down by tradition and, in 1998, rarely informed by scientific knowledge of learning theory or even basic animal behavior.
That same year, leapfrogging on the budding success of the Whole Horse Journal (no longer in publication), its publisher decided to launch a trial of something called the Whole Dog Journal. Since I had been working on Whole Horse Journal in an informal role since its beginning, the publisher asked me to edit the new magazine. I was flattered, but as I told him, “I’m really more of a horse person! I mean, I * have * a dog, but I don’t know that much about them!” My new boss helpfully pointed out that as a professional journalist, I ought to be able to figure it out.
Most of the “figuring it out” in the first few years of Whole Dog Journal meant leaning hard on truly qualified and knowledgeable experts in their fields and learning as much as possible from them. I needed someone to help educate the readers of WDJ (and me!) about scientifically sound, kind, and effective dog training methods. When I learned that the author of that clicker-training article in the Whole Horse Journal was actually a dog trainer (with a horse addiction), I was thrilled. I zeroed in on Pat as someone who could help me help WDJ’s readers learn to train their dogs in mutually fun and beneficial ways. At my request, Pat wrote an article for the very first issue of WDJ – and she has had an article in every issue save ONE since then. (That omission was my fault; I had her article, but bumped it from the issue for reasons I can’t remember now, but I don’t think Pat will ever let me forget it! I screwed up her perfect record!)
Pat was an extremely early adopter of dog-friendly and scientifically sound training methods. At the time that Whole Dog Journal was launched in 1998, I would characterize the dog-owning public (including myself) as innocently ignorant of the differences between military-style, force-based obedience and fun, family-friendly training.
It seems crazy now, given the happy prevalence of “positive training” today, but 20 years ago, the vast majority of professional dog trainers were openly hostile to “cookie tossers” and “weenie slingers.” But Pat was never defensive about promoting methods based on positive reinforcement; from our first collaboration, she showed me how the proof was in the pudding: happy dogs learning quickly and easily from astonished and grateful owners are the best advocates for this stuff.
In the beginning (as now), I relied on Pat to provide WDJ with informative, clear, sensible articles about basic dog-friendly dog training, which I knew nothing about in those early days. She pointed me toward educational opportunities such as the first APDT conference I ever attended in Ellenburg, New York, in 2001, so I could immerse myself in the topic of modern dog training and try to catch up a little.
Pat introduced me to leaders in the field such as Jean Donaldson, Patricia McConnell, Dr. Karen Overall, among others. Early on, I asked her to take the title of Training Editor, in recognition of her importance to Whole Dog Journal‘s development.
Pat also educated me about things as simple but profoundly important as the need for consistent use of modern language about animals. From the beginning, she gently but persistently convinced me about the need to use “him” and “her” when referring to animals – never “it.” It seems so basic, and yet – well, go read any other newspaper or magazine article about a specific animal. Also, thanks to Pat, we have always used the word “who” rather than “that” in sentences that refer to dogs, just as we would for humans. It’s not “Dogs that bark incessantly…” but rather “Dogs who bark incessantly…”. When we acknowledge the personhood of dogs (or any other sentient animals) in these basic ways, Pat taught me, the reader more readily recognizes the need to deal with them with the respect and kindness accorded to any human animal.
Pat has not only guided my education about canine behavior and training, she has also encouraged other trainer/authors and introduced them to me and to WDJ. Many of our training contributors are people who have either worked with or been one of Pat’s students (at one or more of her Canine Behavior and Training Academies) or who are colleagues that Pat admires and respects. You see, like the best educators, Pat is also a perennial student, always reading, researching, and learning about advances in the field of learning theory. Over the years, I have witnessed the fact that some trainers learn one technique and practice that technique and only that technique for the rest of their lives and careers. In contrast, Pat is always eager to learn something new, try it out on her own dogs, and if it proves to be fun, kind, and effective, she generously promotes the new technology as yet one more option for helping dogs and humans learn together.
Tonight, the APDT will be recognizing Pat for her professional achievements – her many books on positive training, her Academies for dog trainers, etc., etc., – but monthly, with every issue, I hope Whole Dog Journal readers recognize Pat’s contributions as well.
November can be a tough month. Many of my friends complain about feeling blue in November. The time has just changed. The days are short and cold and yet the ski or snowshoeing trails are not yet ready. Things can just seem overwhelmingly bleak in November.
I offer my friends the only remedy that has never failed me: I tell them to go take a hike! But they need to bring their dogs, too – and to try to find a place where they can really breathe some fresh air and escape from other people for a while. The absolute ideal is if they have access to a place where they can safely walk with their dogs off-leash, without endangering their own dogs or anyone else’s.
The place where I live in northern California is not the most beautiful part, and it’s far from anywhere glamorous or affluent – but I have access to unlimited amounts of open space where I can walk with my dogs off-leash. It makes me feel indescribably rich, especially because I hardly ever see anyone else out there. I work on my dogs’ recall daily to keep their responses quick and enthusiastic – and when they do stop on a dime and spin around to run back to me on cue, well, that in itself puts a smile on my face and warmth in my heart.
I have had friends say to me, “You are so lucky to have this space to hike in, and so lucky to have such good dogs!” I know what they mean, but luck has nothing to do with it. I moved here mostly to be closer to my father in his last year of life and didn’t think I would stay here after he passed away. But I ended up falling in love with the trails and open spaces, and have stayed a dozen years now. There a lots of things that I enjoy that I don’t have here – but on the other hand, I have never had access to this much off-leash space with so few other people sharing it. Our hikes help me stay fit enough to keep up with my very fit dogs and fine-tune our communication and relationship so they are keen to stay with me – no matter what long-eared, cloven-hoofed, or flapping and feathered temptations might jump up and run or fly away under their noses! Both are ongoing goals and constant sources of joy.
So, if you are feeling blue for any reason, here’s my advice: Go take a walk with your dog in the most open space you can find. Enjoy your dog and the air, and clear your mind. Trust me, you’ll feel better afterward.
October issue Correction:Our review of warm winter coats in the October issue misidentified one product we reviewed. The coat made by Mountain Mutts Dog Coats that we reviewed was the Powershield Winter Coat, not the Boulder Coat. Also, we neglected to note that the company will alter any coat that doesn’t fit your dog perfectly, at no extra charge. We were unaware of this service, and now that we are aware, we have increased our rating of the product. Please see the online version of the review, which has been corrected and updated.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
