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Service Dog Scams

San Diego resident Tamandra Michaels, who was born witih spina bifida, trained her own service dog, Justice, to retrieve items and help “motor” her non-powered wheelchair, among other tasks.

Imagine scraping, scrimping, and saving all your hard-earned dollars to realize a long-held dream – the purchase of a well-trained service dog for yourself, a family member, or a friend. You’ve spent long hours imagining how life will be so much easier for you and your loved-ones with a trusted canine assistant there to help. Finally, the long-awaited day is here, and your service dog arrives.

Now imagine your disappointment and horror when you realize the dog you just paid thousands of dollars for is untrained, undersocialized, fearful, and even aggressive. Your dream just turned into a nightmare. You have been scammed.

A growing number of news stories are reporting cases of dog training companies allegedly selling completely untrained dogs as service dogs. The Ry-Con Service Dog Company in Raleigh, North Carolina, closed its doors in January of this year after more than 40 customers filed complaints with that state’s Attorney General. Prices for those dogs ranged from $10,000 to $15,000, and complaints included dogs who weren’t housetrained, and on at least one occasion, a dog who bit the child he was supposed to be serving.

Virginia’s Attorney General filed a lawsuit in May 2018 against Roanoke-based Service Dogs by Warren Retrievers, alleging the dogs they sold for $18,000 to $27,000 were sometimes as young as three months and weren’t even trained to respond to basic cues, much less perform the diabetes-alert tasks they were sold to do. The State received complaints from more than 50 Warren Retriever customers.

Justice allows a child in a wheelchair to pet him. Spending a small fortune to buy a dog with a temperament that is unsuited to close work with disabled children or adults would be disastrous for many people who need a reliable service animal. Photo by Tamandra Michaels

It’s truly one of the more heartless scams being perpetuated these days, and it’s happening with increasing frequency, due in part to the large sums of money people are willing to pay for service dogs, and in part to the complete lack of regulation in the dog training industry.

Evolution of a Scam

When properly trained, dogs can immensely improve the quality of life for people who need them. Many years ago, the only service dogs were guide dogs for vision-impaired humans. Only a few companies provided the very highly specialized training dogs needed for this task, and scams were nonexistent. A poorly trained guide dog could easily get her person killed.

Next on the scene were hearing dogs for people who had varying degrees of hearing impairment. Because hearing dog tasks were (and are) simpler to train than guide dogs, this option attracted multiple training professionals to the service dog field. The San Francisco SPCA was a leader in this new development and soon others jumped in.

Eventually, people realized that service dogs could be capable of performing a much wider variety of tasks, and the service dog boom was born. Today, dogs perform a limitless list of behaviors for their differently abled humans, including opening and closing doors; helping their people get dressed; detecting allergens, low blood sugar levels and the impending onset of seizures; picking up dropped items; turning appliances on and off; providing physical support; calling for emergency help; and much more.

Their incredible versatility and value has created a huge demand for service dogs and a well-trained dog can command a high price.

Add in the fact that our society has become accustomed to ordering anything we want from the internet; more and more people today purchase puppies and adopt dogs sight unseen from across the country.

If you type the words “service dog fraud” into any online search engine, you will find that there is no shortage of people who have been victimized by fake service dog trainers.

This combination created a perfect storm that explains the success of service-dog scammers who ship untrained dogs great distances, sight unseen, to disabled clients. Who would be so cruel as to defraud a person with a disability? Apparently, there are all too many who are willing to do so.

Lack of Regulation

Another contributor to the problem is the fact that the dog training industry as a whole, not just the service-dog training industry, is woefully unregulated. In most if not all parts of the United States, literally anyone can hang out a sign or put an ad in the paper and call themselves a dog trainer – even a service-dog trainer. Someone who is willing to be unethical about acquiring the background and training necessary to be a competent training professional may also be more likely to be willing to rip people off for an untrained service dog.

Tips for Avoiding Service Dog Scammers

Many people have a very real need for the assistance and independence that a real service dog can provide. It’s a travesty that those who could really benefit from a well-trained dog might be afraid to try to acquire one because of the risk of being scammed – or, worse, might actually be defrauded when they do purchase a dog. If you know someone considering a service dog, please share these tips to help him or her avoid the scammers:

1. Check out the trainer and/or company. Ask training professionals you know and trust if they are familiar with the person or company with dogs for sale. If they aren’t familiar with the prospective seller, ask if they will help you find other reputable trainers who are familiar with the prospective seller.

Anyone who trains service dogs for sale should have, at a minimum,  valid professional credentials from reputable trainer organizations, such as the Certification Counsel for Professional Dog Trainers, the Pet Professional Guild, or the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. There are other credentials that can support or boost a professional’s credibility, but these are a start. Veterinary Behaviorists or Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists have advanced degrees, which should be very easy to verify, but don’t take anyone’s word about any credentials! Contact the certifying organization and  make sure the person’s credentials are in good standing.

2. Ask for a lot of references – 10, if not more. A trainer or company is unlikely to give you references to dissatisfied clients, but asking for a significant number decreases the likelihood that the references are fake. Contact the clients, and ask very specific questions about their dogs: age, breed, gender, how long they’ve had them, specifically what tasks the dogs were trained to do, and if the client is happy with the dog’s performance. Make the conversation light and chatty, not an interrogation!

After getting answers to the questions, ask if the client would be willing to send you videos of their dog performing some of the tasks. Many service dog owners are proud of their dogs and would be happy to show off their dogs’ accomplishments. When you receive the videos, make sure the dogs and the tasks match the descriptions given in the answers to your questions.

3. Meet your prospective service dog in person. I can’t even imagine adopting a dog sight unseen as a regular companion, much less one who will fill the critically important role of a service dog. I realize there may be a cost and significant inconvenience involved in traveling to wherever the dog is, but this is mandatory.

You need to see that the dog genuinely is trained, and the trainer should ensure that you and the dog are a good match. He or she should spend some time teaching you how to work with the dog. You also need to know you are comfortable with the dog!

4. Do a background check. Many states permit online criminal records searches. Something from someone’s far distant past might not be cause for alarm, but something more recent might be. Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if complaints have been filed. Ask the local Animal Control in the jurisdiction of the business if they have had any problems with the facility or its staff. Check to see if they have a business license. Do several online searches of the business name and look for articles and reviews about the business or its owners.

5. Consider setting up an escrow account. You might want an animal law attorney to help you with this one. An escrow is a contractual arrangement in which a third party receives and disburses money or property for the primary transacting parties. The disbursement is dependent on conditions agreed to and well-described in the contract by the transacting parties.

The conditions could include a period of time during which the dog demonstrates her ability to perform the tasks as promised by the trainer, and well as providing a guarantee of payment to the trainer when conditions are met.

6. Consider training your own service dog. No law says you have to buy a trained service dog, and a growing number of training professionals are helping owners train their own service dogs, especially for some of the less-demanding tasks.

Service Dog Coaching: A Guide for Pet Dog Trainers is a good and recently published book by Veronica Sanchez, CPDT-KA, CABC, that is helping trainers meet the needs of people seeking to train their own dogs. There are a variety of other books on the market intended to help you train your own service dog. Check with your trusted training professional about which of these books might be acceptable/suitable for you.

One important caveat: Your dog may or may not be suited for the work of a service dog – be prepared for this!

7. Trust your instincts. If any part of the service-dog training or service-dog purchase process feels wrong to you, trust your instincts! Whether it’s a bad feeling about the individual trainer, alarming information that turns up during the background check, or your own feelings about the dog you are being matched with – trust your instincts! Trying to recover your $10,000 to $25,000 from a scammer after the fact may be a very difficult challenge – if not an impossible one.

Your service dog should be an invaluable asset, a treasure, a life-enhancer, a comfort, and a joy. Do everything within your power to make sure she can be everything you want and need her to be. 

Take the Sit/Down/Stand challenge!

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"Hey, everyone: Let's have a quick group practice session on the lawn. I know it's hot!"

My trainer friend Sarah Richardson, owner of The Canine Connection in Chico, California, recently attended a conference in Hot Springs, Arkansas, with a world-renowned pioneer in animal training. She came back home full of inspiration and excitement, with ideas about how she wants to add things and change things in her group training classes.

Sarah hosts a discussion group on Facebook for her training clients, and she posted this shortly after she got back:

“Bob Bailey is now in his 80s but was literally one of the first in the world to be training as we now do with operant conditioning, use of a marker, etc. Bob invited some of the key people he has influenced to serve as his fellow presenters and they came from Canada, Holland, Germany, Mexico, and the US to be with him.

“One of the presenters gave a talk about how ballet improved her dog training. As an adult in her 40s, she took up ballet and learned how hard it is to do the basic movements really well. In contrast, world-class ballerinas practice the basic movements – just the basics – up to 8 hours a day! It got me thinking: How much do we practice the basics – just the basics! – with our dogs so that they are competent with these core skills, and so we are competent with teaching and communicating with our dogs?

“So, I am returning home from my trip with a challenge for myself and my dogs. We are going to return to practicing our canine calisthenics – sit, down, stand – like crazy, in short, frequent training sessions this month. My goal is for my dogs to do these behaviors on a verbal cue as well as on a hand signal and in many different contexts (how they are positioned in relation to me, the setting we are in, etc.).”

Further, Sarah encouraged those in the group to practice and post video of their practice sessions with their dogs.

Time to Start Practicing

I thought I would take the challenge. Back to basics – easy peasy, yes? Both of my dogs know hand and verbal cues for sit, down, and stand, and can readily move from one position to the other. My senior dog Otto is super sharp at these, and eagerly demonstrates his acuity. I looked forward to taking some video of Otto confidently moving through these exercises to share with the discussion group.

“We’re happy to lay down on the cool grass.”

I thought (correctly) that I would have to practice more with my younger dog, Woody, before I could commit to putting our efforts on video. Woody takes a more speculative approach to my cues. “Why are you asking?” he seems to say when I give him a cue. He “knows” the cues for sit, down, and stand. After taking a moment to determine whether I’m serious about wanting a response from him, he will methodically change from any one of those positions to any other position. But he tends to get stuck a few position changes into any session of more than three requests. He needs some convincing that the work is worth his while. He may go into a down, and then just stay there after I ask for “sit” or “stand.” His expression seems to say, “I’m just not sure there is a point to all this!”

Food treat rewards increase the motivation – and I don’t blame him one bit. I don’t like working for zero pay, either. And his speed definitely increases when the compensation value increases; he will work longer and faster for chicken or cheese than kibble. But he only gets enthusiastic and sharp-looking if the “pay” is his highest-value reward: a chance to go fetch his Planet Dog Squeak ball.

With the “stand” cue, we lost Odin; he had no interest in a cue he didn’t know yet.

“What’s In It For Me?”

Woody’s deliberations make me miss my Border Collie, Rupert – the dog I owned when we launched Whole Dog Journal 22 years ago. Well-trained Border Collies make any trainer look good; they love to work and find it incredibly self-rewarding to respond to rapid-fire cues. Many will work without treats or any other tangible reward; the opportunity to work with their person is often enough of a high-value reinforcement in itself! In contrast, Woody, a pit-Lab-mix, has a healthy self-preservation instinct. He wants to know, “What’s in it for me?” before committing himself to a lot of training nonsense.

Otto is somewhere in between. He’s keen to earn my praise and attention, and he likes food treats. But he’s not going to do this all day. I have to keep our practice sessions short and fun, or he starts dramatically sighing and moaning on his “downs” – or looking off to the side when I first give him a cue, like, “Wait, one sec… Did you just hear the mail truck? I think maybe I should go check to see if your mail is here…”

Anyway, I’ve been practicing. I took video on Otto’s first session, and it wasn’t bad. As I predicted, he is really pretty sharp and willing – though the fact that I was holding a camera/phone between us was definitely off-putting to him. And after a dozen or so position changes he was like, “Um, Nance… What’s going on here?”

It took a couple days of practice before I even bothered to try to take some footage of Woody’s efforts. The fact that I recently brought home a nice new Squeak ball helped a lot.

I do tend to take these basic behaviors for granted from my own dogs, but practicing with the goal of taking video that I could share has been fun. It also gives me and my dogs something to “talk about” – an extra few interactions each day that are (I hope) mutually enjoyable. Try it yourself! We’ll put a post on the WDJ Facebook page where you can upload video of your own dogs doing these basic exercises.

Calcium in Homemade Dog Food

calcium in homemade dog food
If you feed your dog a home-prepared diet, and you do not include a source of calcium, you could be seriously endangering your dog’s health. The ingredients shown here are the basis of a very healthy diet – but without the ground eggshell added in, the diet would be incomplete and imbalanced.

If asked the most common mistake people make when feeding their dogs a homemade diet, I’d have to say that it’s not adding calcium. This error is not only common, it’s also dangerous, especially for puppies, but for adult dogs as well when too little calcium is given long term. Giving an inappropriate amount of calcium (either too much or too little) can cause orthopedic problems in growing puppies, especially large-breed puppies during the first six months when they are growing the fastest. But giving too little calcium can lead to bone disease and more in adult dogs, too.

It’s not surprising to me that many people do not realize the importance of adding calcium when feeding a homemade diet. Most of the homemade diet recipes I’ve seen online make no mention of added calcium. I reviewed more than 30 books on homemade diets for WDJ some years ago.1 Of the 24 books I reviewed that were not exclusively about feeding a raw diet that includes bones, only 10 included adequate calcium guidelines!

Why Calcium is Important in Dog Nutrition

I’m aware that some people who feed home-prepared diets rely on annual blood tests to indicate whether their dogs are receiving enough calcium; they think that if their dogs’ blood calcium levels are normal, the dogs must be getting the right amount of calcium in their diet. Unfortunately, this is not true.

For both dogs and humans, the body must keep calcium levels in the blood within a specific range to prevent serious health issues, including loss of muscle control, seizures, and even death. Adult dogs are able to control their blood calcium levels by absorbing a greater or lesser percentage of dietary calcium, depending on the amount fed, though this can be impacted by the amount of vitamin D in the diet as well, as vitamin D promotes calcium absorption. Note that puppies do not have the ability to control their absorption of calcium before puberty, and thus can suffer the negative effects of too little or too much calcium and vitamin D very quickly.

feeding dog treats
Calories from treats, chews, and shared snacks can add up quickly, especially for small dogs and couch potatoes, unbalancing whatever type of diet you feed. Limit treats to healthy foods in small amounts. Dogs are happier to get two or three tiny treats than one large one!

Dogs (and humans) also control their blood calcium levels by storing calcium in bones, then drawing it back out when needed – when they aren’t getting enough calcium in their diet. When adult dogs are given too little calcium for long periods (like months), they develop a condition called nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism. In this situation, the body produces excess parathyroid hormone to draw needed calcium from their bones, which can also result in elevated levels of phosphorus in the blood.

Parathyroid hormone is completely different from thyroid hormones; the name is given because the parathyroid glands are located adjacent to the thyroid glands. Parathyroid hormones are responsible for regulating calcium and phosphorus levels in the blood. Hyperparathyroidism (too much parathyroid hormone) can also be caused by a tumor on one of the parathyroid glands (primary hyperparathyroidism) or by advanced kidney disease (renal secondary hyperparathyroidism). Nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism is usually linked to a deficiency of calcium, sometimes combined with too little vitamin D.

When the body produces too much parathyroid hormone, it causes demineralization of the bones, which may result in lameness, bone pain, swelling, stiffness or limping, not wanting to move, and even spontaneous fractures. Adult dogs may develop spinal deformities, loose teeth, or neurological signs. Puppies are more likely to develop deformities in their legs and joints that may leave them unable to walk normally. If the condition is not corrected quickly, it could lead to long-term orthopedic disorders.

Now that I have scared the pants off you about providing the right amount of calcium in your dog’s homemade diet – at least, I hope I did! – what kind of calcium should you add, and how much is the right amount?

When You DON’T Need to Add Calcium to Your Dog’s Food

Never add calcium to commercial diets that are “complete and balanced” – these already contain the right amount of calcium! Adding calcium to a “complete and balanced” diet would be particularly dangerous for large-breed puppies.

However, most homemade diets require added calcium with a few notable exceptions. DO NOT add calcium to a home-prepared diet if:

  • You feed a raw diet that includes raw meaty bones (RMBs) — parts such as chicken and turkey necks where the bone is fully consumed. Bones are high in calcium and phosphorus; there’s no need to add calcium to a diet that includes at least 25 to 30 percent RMBs.
  • You use a supplement that is especially designed to complete and balance a homemade diet, such as those made by Balance IT and Just Food For Dogs.
  • You use a dog food “base mix,” such as those made by The Honest Kitchen and Sojo’s, that you combine with your own added protein source according to the product directions.

When using supplements or base mixes that promise to complete a homemade diet, make certain that the product includes a complete nutritional analysis showing appropriate amounts of calcium. Don’t accept the verbal assurances of the company’s owners or representatives, or those of pet food store employees; if they can’t or won’t provide you with complete nutritional analyses of their products, we would not rely on those products for anything more than an occasional meal.

Following Calcium Guidelines

With very few exceptions (see “When You Don’t Need to Add Calcium,” above), you need to add calcium to your dog’s homemade diet.

Calcium guidelines can be determined in several different ways, including the body weight of the dog, the dry matter percentage of the food, and the calories that the dog needs. Each has its own complications:

  • Small dogs eat more and have higher nutritional needs for their weight than large dogs do, so you can’t use linear guidelines such as “give x amount per 10 pounds of body weight.” Any time you see linear feeding instructions, it’s a red flag that whoever is giving the instructions does not understand nutrition.
  • The amount of moisture (water) in food can vary from about 10 percent or less in dry foods (kibble, dehydrated, freeze-dried) to 80 per percent or more in wet foods (canned, fresh, frozen, raw, cooked). You must convert the “as fed” food weight to dry matter (DM) in order to give guidelines based on how much food is fed. Dry matter percentages won’t change much when you convert from “as fed” for dry foods, but are usually three to five times as much as the “as fed” percentage for wet foods. Also, because we feed dogs less of high-fat, calorie-dense foods, adjustments need to be made for foods with more than 4,000 kcal/kg DM.
  • Calculating nutritional requirements based on the number of calories your dog needs is the simplest method, but comes with some warnings as well. Caloric needs will vary based on your dog’s activity level, metabolism, and more. The right amount to feed will also be affected by how many calories your dog gets from treats, chews, leftovers, and other sources. In particular, inactive dogs who eat less food for their weight than would be expected should get most of their calories from a balanced diet in order to avoid nutritional deficiencies.

The National Research Council (NRC) issued updated nutritional guidelines for dogs in 2006. They recommend feeding adult dogs at least 1 mg of calcium per Calorie (kcal), which is the same as 1 gram (1,000 mg) per 1,000 kcal (Mcal).

The nutritional guidelines published by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), which were finally modified in 2016 to reflect the latest NRC recommendations, increased this to 1.25 mg calcium/kcal (1.25 grams/Mcal).

On a dry matter basis, that’s 4 to 5 grams of calcium per kilogram of food on a dry matter basis, or 0.4 to 0.5 percent DM.

One other factor affects how much calcium your dog needs: phosphorus. There should always be at least as much calcium as phosphorus in the diet, up to twice as much for healthy dogs (or three times as much for dogs with kidney disease).

Most homemade diets that I’ve looked at have between 0.5 and 1.25 mg phosphorus per kcal, so giving 1.25 mg calcium per kcal will provide most dogs with an appropriate amount of calcium and a proper calcium:phosphorus ratio.

You will need to know how many calories your dog is likely to need, based on his ideal weight – not his actual weight. See Table I on the next page for the approximate amounts of calcium to add to homemade diets for dogs of various sizes and various activity levels in order to provide 1.25 mg of calcium per kcal. While nutrient needs don’t vary by activity level, dogs who eat more food need more calcium in order to balance out the amount of phosphorus in the diet.

At minimum, give the lowest amount of calcium shown for your dog’s ideal weight, even if you find that you need to feed fewer calories than shown to keep your dog at a proper, lean weight. If you must feed a lot less to help your dog lose weight or prevent your dog from gaining unwanted weight, it’s time to cut back on the number of calories your dog gets from other sources.

The amount of calcium you give does not need to be exact. It’s fine to give a little less or a little more calcium than shown. Most commercial diets for adult dogs that I’ve looked at have between 2 and 3 mg of calcium per kcal (diets designed for puppies or for “all life stages” will have even more). These diets also have an equivalently higher amount of phosphorus.

If you feed a diet that is part commercial, part homemade, adjust the calcium amounts shown in Table I appropriately. For example, if you feed half homemade, give half the amount of calcium shown.

Calcium for Puppies is Trickier

All of these guidelines are for adult dogs only. Puppies are trickier. NRC and AAFCO agree that puppies need at least 3 mg of calcium per Calorie (three times the amount of calcium that adult dogs need on a caloric basis).

The maximum amount of calcium that puppies should get is 4.5 mg per kcal (4.5 g/Mcal). It’s especially important not to give too much calcium to large-breed puppies during their first six months, as they are the group most likely to develop bone and joint abnormalities when given the wrong amount of calcium and phosphorus.

Puppies also need more phosphorus than adult dogs do. Never add plain calcium to a puppy’s homemade diet. Puppies need bone meal or some other type of supplement that provides both calcium and phosphorus, in order to provide the correct amount and ratio of calcium to phosphorus.

calcium levels for puppies

What Form of Calcium Should You Give Your Dog?

There are many forms of calcium that can be added to your home-prepared diet to meet your dog’s requirements. Any form of plain calcium, without other ingredients such as vitamin D, is fine. Dogs do need vitamin D, but since dogs need more calcium but not more vitamin D than people do, the amount of vitamin D that you would end up giving when using a combination product would be too high.

Calcium carbonate is usually the cheapest and the easiest to give, as it has more elemental calcium than most other calcium compounds, so you will need to add less powder to the food.

One easy way to provide calcium is to use eggshells that have been washed, dried, and ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder or blender. One large eggshell will make about one level teaspoon of eggshell powder weighing 5.5 grams; this will provide approximately 2,000 mg calcium:

1/8 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 250 mg calcium
1/4 tsp = 500 mg
3⁄8 tsp = 750 mg
1/2 tsp = 1,000 mg
5/8 tsp = 1,250 mg
3/4 tsp = 1,500 mg
7⁄8 tsp = 1,750 mg
1 tsp = 2,000 mg

Some people like to give their dogs whole eggs with the shell, but I don’t think that’s a good way to ensure that your dog gets the right amount of calcium. The calcium in eggshells that have not been ground to powder may not be absorbed, particularly if you notice any bits of shell in your dog’s stool. If it is absorbed, you may end up giving too much calcium, especially to smaller dogs.

It’s okay to give a dog a whole egg, including the shell, as a treat on occasion, but when using eggshells to provide dietary calcium needed to balance out a homemade diet, it’s safest to grind the shells to a powder.

If you use a calcium supplement that also includes phosphorus, such as bone meal powder or dicalcium phosphate, you will have to give more calcium than if you use a plain calcium supplement in order to keep the calcium:phosphorus ratio in the proper range. To determine how much to give, you must first subtract the amount of phosphorus from the amount of calcium, then use the remaining amount of “extra” calcium to calculate how much to give based on Table I.

dog food calcium supplementation
Table I: Calcium Supplementation Goal: 1.25 mg Calcium per kcal Fed to Adult Dogs

For example, if the bone meal supplement you’re using has 800 mg calcium and 300 mg phosphorus per teaspoon, there’s 500 mg “extra” calcium to use to calculate how much to give. If your dog needs 1,000 mg calcium added to his diet based on Table I, you would need to give two teaspoons of bone meal powder (500 mg extra calcium per teaspoon) in order to provide an appropriate amount of calcium while ensuring that the calcium:phosphorus ratio remains in the proper range.

Note that bone meal products designed for humans may not tell you the actual amount of calcium and phosphorus they provide, but will instead give you percentages of daily recommended values for adults.

For example, NOW Foods Bone Meal Powder says that 1 level teaspoon provides 80 percent of the recommended daily amount (RDA) for calcium, and 30 percent of the RDA for phosphorus. The RDA for both calcium and phosphorus for humans has been 1,000 mg (1 gram), so 80 percent would be 800 mg and 30 percent would be 300 mg.

This calculation will soon become more complicated, however, as the FDA recently increased these recommended amounts to 1,300 mg calcium and 1,250 mg phosphorus. New labels must reflect this change by July 2020. If NOW Foods does not change their formulation, the same product would now show that it provides 62 percent RDA for calcium and 24 percent RDA for phosphorus.

Many bone meal products provide about twice as much calcium as phosphorus. In this case, you can just double the calcium recommendations shown in Table I to determine how much to give.

If you use bone meal powder to provide calcium, look for brands that have been tested to show that they contain low levels of lead. Never use bone meal products intended for fertilizer.

Dolomite is another type of calcium supplement that may contain unacceptably high levels of lead.

Plant-based calcium supplements show considerable variety in the amount of lead they may contain; contact the company to ask for test results before using one of these supplements on a daily basis.

Again, these guidelines are only for dogs who are fed a homemade diet that lacks an adequate source of calcium, such as raw meaty bones or a supplement designed to balance a homemade diet. There’s a lot more to feeding a homemade diet that we’ll try to address in future articles, but getting the calcium right is a big step in the right direction of feeding a complete and balanced diet.

Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She and her mixed-breed, Willow, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.

I love dedicated dog people.

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The company that I work for is based in Norwalk, Connecticut. I have worked for Belvoir Media Group for the past 22 years on Whole Dog Journal, and before that, on The Whole Horse Journal! But given that I work from my home in northern California, and do little more than just produce the editorial content of the publication, it’s easy for me to be ignorant of the dozens of people on the other side of the country who are working to support WDJ’s circulation, marketing, website, promotions, etc.

I mean, I speak regularly to my boss, and I have weekly interaction with the person who needs my weekly blog post by a certain day at a certain time . . . and, in the day of modern publishing, I now also have regular meetings with the “kids” who do “search engine optimization” and let me know what sorts of articles you guys are looking for. They track the online access to our back issues and offer suggestions on what content needs to be updated and freshened up – which is helpful, because I tend to think “We just DID an in-depth article on pancreatitis!” when in fact that article is six or seven years old now.

But every once in a while the company asks me to come out to Connecticut and work with members of the team whose names I only really know from email – and am not even really sure what they do. And what a delight it is when it turns out that some of these people are ardent readers of WDJ, and are, in fact, super dedicated dog people who are doing absolutely everything right for their dogs! What fun!

My kind of dog person

For a couple of days, I am out here working with a number of people on producing a course for new dog owners – an online guide with video and slides and all sorts of valuable content plucked from the pages of WDJ. I’m spending a few hours in a role I do not enjoy, in front of a camera instead of behind one, taking pictures of dogs. But yesterday, we filmed at the home of one of the company’s circulation directors (Belvoir Media Group publishes a lot of magazines and newsletters, not just WDJ). And what a joy it was to pull up and see, on the back of Theresa’s car, a spare-tire cover featuring a lovely photo of her Bulldog, several Bulldog-themed bumper stickers, and inside her home, a plethora of not just Bulldog-themed art, but smart dog-owner stuff everywhere! Baby gates in both the kitchen doorways. Baskets of dog toys. A variety of collars and leashes hanging by the door. And two gorgeous but dog-friendly fenced yards, where we filmed.

A Bulldog with a nice waistline!

I brought a present for Theresa’s six-year-old Bulldog, Macy: Woody’s favorite toy in the world, a brand-new Planet Dog Squeak ball. I was happy initially because not only was Macy a particularly fit Bulldog, she immediately loved and coveted the toy (and Theresa assured me that it wasn’t indiscriminate love; “She’s very picky about her toys,” she said seriously). But then I told Theresa that I had brought some of my favorite dog treats from home, some Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Meal Mixers. And right away she asked, “What’s in them? Because Macy can’t have chicken or she breaks out in hives.” Of course, the ones I brought were chicken, but I was thrilled to meet a dog owner who was aware of the cause of a problem and proactive about protecting her dog from the problem – and who was ready with some chicken-free treats of her own to give me, so I could help guide Macy through our shots in front of the camera together. And she showed me the cues that she uses to ask Macy for the good-manners behaviors and tricks she knows. What fun!

In my part of the world, I meet a lot of dog owners who don’t microchip, who have choke chains on their dogs as a matter of course, who don’t train their dogs – or even let them in the house! So it’s a pure delight to go and meet a total stranger who works on behalf of WDJ behind the scenes who is a total WDJ-type of person.

I’ll keep you apprised about the course; it’s going to be great!

Download the Full June 2019 Issue PDF

  • Canine Cancer
  • How Dry I Am
  • Service Dog Scams
  • Cushing's Disease
  • Diggity Dog?
  • Final Preparations
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28
whole dog journal editor Nancy Kerns

One of the most urgent issues facing owners in this country today is the spike in the number of cases of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), especially in breeds that do not have an inherited higher risk of developing the condition. I have been discussing the issue with board-certified veterinary nutritionists and representatives of pet food companies and will have an update for you soon. In the meantime, I feel compelled to repeat one bit of advice that I give in (I think) every review of foods I have ever written for WDJ:

Don’t feed the same food every month. Don’t feed the same type of food every month! Switch companies!

Forgive the repetition if you are a long-time reader of WDJ; you are aware we’ve been saying this forever. Newer subscribers might not have heard it before.

There is a persistent myth that if you switch your dog’s food too quickly, or too frequently, you will “upset the dog’s stomach.” This myth almost surely originated from pet food companies decades ago; they were no doubt trying to build their consumers’ loyalty to their brand while offering a solution to a problem that they had created – the fact that you can upset a dog’s digestive tract if you feed him the same diet (and nothing else) for months and months and then suddenly give him something very different. What they failed to tell dog owners was that feeding their dogs different foods all the time – switching diets frequently – is more “natural” for dogs; they are perfectly suited to eating a varied diet. Imposing an unnaturally narrow diet on them begs for problems to develop.

If you have a dog with a proven allergy to or intolerance of multiple ingredients, finding a variety of products that don’t aggravate his particular system can be challenging. But the fact remains that variety itself does not hurt your dog. And, importantly, frequently changing the food you buy for your dog – switching among varieties but also among different companies – very likely could have prevented many of the cases of DCM being associated with specific diets.

I’m monitoring many online groups devoted to this topic, and have seen it hundreds of times: “I have been feeding my dog ‘Brand X’ for the past three years, and now he’s been diagnosed with DCM! Brand X is a terrible company!” In many cases, affected dogs are improving with dietary changes, but I would hate to see the owners simply switch undying loyalty to a different company!

The fact is, feeding the same type of products from the same company year in and year out is putting your dog’s health solely in that company’s hands. There isn’t any single company I would trust my entire lifetime of nutrition to; why do we expect this from any pet food company for our dogs?

What Happened to Odin’s Eye?

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One of my longest-term fosters was Odin, who was one of seven starved, mange-covered puppies brought into my local shelter. I fostered the whole litter (though two didn't survive their serious conditions), but I had Odin for many months, and many trips to the veterinary ophthalmology department at UC Davis, trying to save his injured eye. I would have loved to keep him; he was a total sweetheart. Fortunately, he found a terrific family who ADORES him -- and I have room to keep fostering.

I asked in a previous blog post what you guys would do in my position: go ahead with an experimental surgery and medication regime requiring a one-year commitment to the medication – and which, if it didn’t work, would still result in the loss of his eye – OR, just go ahead and have Odin’s eye removed now, putting an end to his 12 daily doses of various medications and discomfort. I really appreciated every single comment and suggestion! They made me cry more than once and I seriously considered each and every one.

Keep in mind that Odin is still, officially and legally, a foster dog who belongs to my local shelter, the Northwest SPCA. So while I have fostered him since he was about six weeks old, when I took he and his mange-covered, starving littermates out of the shelter to care for them, the management of the shelter had the final say. They have given me tremendous latitude with my foster puppies’ care, and probably wouldn’t flat-out override any decisions I made unless it was clear I had lost my mind (which, folks, can happen in the land of rescue and fostering! There is new evidence about this almost daily; see here and here and here, as just a few recent examples.) But of course I have discussed Odin’s situation with the shelter staff at every step along our journey so far.

The opinion of the shelter veterinarian and the manager? Let’s end the poor little guy’s discomfort and let him go on to live his life without daily medications and monthly trips to the veterinary hospital at UC Davis. And in the end, I agreed.

Enucleation surgery

So a week ago on Wednesday, I took Odin to the shelter and, tears in my eyes, put him in one of the cages in the recovery room, so he could await his turn for surgery (he was second on the list for the day, right after a spaniel who had a tumor on her abdomen and another on her tail that needed removal). About four hours later, the RVT called me to let me know that Odin was recovered enough to go home with me and that he’d need to spend the rest of the day being very quiet, come back in a week to 10 days to have stitches removed, and stay in a cone for about three weeks, to allow everything to heal without complications.

He was still groggy when I picked him up and carried him to my car, and I lifted him out of the car at home, too, although when I put him down, he walked out onto my lawn and peed like a good boy. Then I carried him into the house and put him on the couch, got a blanket and book, and told my husband that we’d be camped out there together for the rest of the day. He had been given pain meds (and I had more pain medication and antibiotics to give him for the next week) and whined under his breath on and off all afternoon. I felt horrible.

We all had to adjust to the cone, not just Odin!

I also felt extremely guilty for not putting a cone on him before surgery to acclimate him to wearing one when he was not in pain. I hadn’t thought of it until I dropped him off for surgery and the RVT mentioned he would need to wear one afterward, to make sure he didn’t bump, rub, or scratch at the delicate area as it healed. Duh! I should have prepared him – because I think that learning to navigate with the cone was the worst part of his next 36 hours or so. On his first foray off the couch, the edge of the cone got caught on the edge of the coffee table, and he cried out and scrambled in a panic to escape the noise and bending of the cone. Then he froze, whining, and wouldn’t even try to walk or move again. So, for his first potty, I carried him out the door and past all the obstacles on my front porch, only putting him down on the open expanse of the lawn. Even so, he looked down and the edge of the cone caught on the grass and he just sat down, disconsolate.

An alternative to the dog cone

That’s when – again, late to the party – I thought of Rex Specs, a ski-goggles-type of eye protection. I got online and ordered some, paying for expedited shipping (although I was frustrated because there was no way to order some to be delivered within one or two days). I had seen Rex Specs at pet product trade shows, and they seemed like they would be perfect for protecting the surgery site without the bother of the cone, with a curved shape that fits dogs’ faces, soft padding all around the frames, an innovative venting system that keeps them from getting steamed up, and fairly secure straps that hold them on. Unlike a cone, they would also allow Odin to chew a rawhide or bone or food-stuffed Kong to help occupy his quiet time. (Dogs need their paws to chew things! They just can’t do this with a cone on!)

I did take a pair of sharp kitchen scissors and cut down the cone a bit – about an inch and a half all the way around – so that it still protected his whole face but didn’t require quite so much room for him to get around without bashing on furniture, door frames, and the legs of everyone else who lives in our house. Even so, Otto in particular took to scrambling away from Odin every time he looked like he might walk nearby.

Making the cone a tad smaller helped Odin navigate later, but for those first 36 hours, I had to take the cone off every time I thought he might have to potty. As soon as he was freed from it, he would trot right out and take care of business. I’d let him eat without it on, and put it back again. He was sad enough about it that it kept him quiet and laying on the couch or the giant dog bed in the living room.

Odin, Ricky, and Woody: Mom says, “Go play, but don’t have too much fun!” Woody mopes, “What’s the point?!”

I spent that day working outside at home – mowing the pasture, trimming shrubs, fixing sprinklers, and so on. I was also supervising the activity of Woody and a friend’s dog, Ricky. Ricky’s owner had knee surgery that day, and he’s a young and boisterous dog who requires a lot of exercise to behave, so I offered to bring him to my house to exercise daily for a few days. He and Woody ran and wrestled and dug for gophers and stayed active all day long.

Time to play

Friday, after pottying outside, breakfast, and medication administration, I put Odin’s cone back on, got him settled on the couch, and headed outside for another day of yardwork. Almost immediately I heard him scratching at the door and howling up a storm. Since my husband works at home, this wouldn’t do. I let him come outside, and put a leash on him, and convinced him to settle near me as I worked. This is when he finally started getting used to moving around with the cone, and not freaking out when it jabbed or caught on things.

On Saturday, I had Ricky back for the day (he had been tired enough after Thursday’s play to sleep for most of Friday). Between this distraction/excitement and Odin’s growing competence with the cut-down cone, all semblance of “keeping Odin quiet” went out the window. It was a frustrating day for Odin and for me. I split the day between supervising bouts of slightly restrained play between the three young dogs outside (with Odin’s cone on), and giving him food-stuffed frozen Kongs and giant rawhide chews to work on inside, with his cone off and me watching him like a hawk to keep him from getting up and walking around (perhaps bumping the surgery site) or taking a casual swipe at the itchy, healing area with a hind paw. It was nerve-wracking!

Trying on the Rex Specs

By the time the Rex Specs arrived on Monday, Odin was a total cone-pro – they weren’t really necessary anymore. But I thought they would be an improvement, nonetheless: He could finally stop bashing into all of our legs with the dang cone, and enjoy chewing things, while keeping the eye-site protected. But they haven’t been the panacea I was hoping for. Unless you make the straps really tight, he can still paw them out of place – and making the straps super tight puts more pressure on his face than can possibly be good for the healing area, and obviously makes him more conscious of the goggles than I’d like him to be. Still, if I can get him to wear them without pawing at them, secured with a normal amount of tightness, I think they would offer greater protection of the surgery site and less discomfort than the cone. So I am putting them on him for short sessions while he does supervised, enjoyable, distracting activities, like eating meals, working on food-stuffed Kongs, following Woody around our fenced two acres, and so on.

Healing from the surgery

As far as the surgery itself: The site is healing beautifully. I have to say that I think Odin is super happy to not have to submit to having eye medication administered 12 times a day. I also think that having the vision-impaired (but not completely blind) eye removed has actually helped him see better. Since his initial eye injury, he’s always had a strange, slightly upright posture and squinty expression when he tried to see things that are far away. I notice that his posture and expression is softer and more relaxed now when he’s looking at things that are more than 20 feet away; it’s just a guess, based on a careful study of his posture, but I think he can see things way better with his single good eye than he could with the same eye paired with the edema- and scar-tissue filled eye. He looks less like a meercat and more like a regular dog when he watches the world going by out my windows. I am thinking the surgery was the right thing to do.

He will get his stitches out in a couple of days, and wear the cone and/or goggles for a couple more weeks. When all his hair is grown back, we will start trying to find him a perfect home.

Thanks again for your interest in little Odin. He’s a fun, special little guy and I’ve learned so much from having him. ** About the eyeball itself: The veterinarian who did the surgery put it into formalin to preserve it. Next week, on my next trip through that area, I’m going to take it to Davis so the ophthalmologist at the university veterinary teaching hospital who has been helping Odin can dissect it. It will be interesting to hear her report when that happens.

Welcome to the new Whole Dog Journal website!

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Exciting news from the Whole Dog Journal staff!

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Making Weighty Decisions for Our Dogs

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As I explained in a couple blog posts (here), about two months ago my foster puppy Odin, who has been receiving treatment for a nonspecific condition in his left eye, was initially accepted into a study at the U.C. Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital – a study in which his eye would be treated with a promising new medication, already approved in Japan. The medication is intended to treat corneal endothelial cell dystrophy – something that, it appeared, Odin may well have.

To start the process, I brought Odin to an ophthalmology lab at the VMTH for some extensive tests, to get a baseline on the condition of Odin’s healthy eye as well as the problematic one. That’s when we discovered that an injury, not disease, was likely at the core (literally) of his eye troubles.

Using optical coherence tomography, the technicians were able to get images of the interior of Odin’s cornea. They observed that a tear or bubble has formed between the corneal endothelial layer and the next layer upward (outward), the Desemet’s membrane. The doctor who heads the study told me, “Well, the medicine we are testing absolutely won’t hurt, and might possibly help, although this is not what it’s designed to do… And we’ve come this far. It’s up to you, but I am happy to reexamine him if you want to try the medication.”

So, for the past two months, Odin has been receiving four doses a day of the medication under study, as well as two different steroid drops and four doses a day of hypertonic saline ointment. All of the latter medications are intended to reduce his corneal edema.

Sadly, we had our follow-up appointment, and if anything, the tear, or bubble in his eye, is a bit worse.

The doctor was as disappointed as I was, even though she said that we were hoping the medicine might possibly do something that it’s not actually expected to do. It has been shown to reduce intraocular pressure, to reduce corneal thickness, to promote corneal endothelial cell proliferation, and even to enhance corneal wound healing – but the ability to close a separation between the endothelial cell layer and the Desemet’s membrane is not something that has been previously demonstrated. Dang it.

We discussed Odin’s options. Realistically, they include only:

(1) Continuing to administer steroid drops and hypertonic saline daily, to control the corneal edema in an attempt to preserve what little vision he has in that eye (essentially, a fuzzy view whereby he can detect only basic light and dark), and staying vigilant about the condition of his eye, in case excessive edema requires that the eye be surgically removed for his comfort….

Or, (2), just going ahead and surgically removing the eye. This procedure is referred to as enucleation. In this case, this would mean no more pain and no more daily doses of medications many times a day, but obviously, the total loss of vision on one side.

I came home a little bummed out. I was hoping for some signs of progress, something that would encourage us to keep going with this medication. But after the news that the bubble in his eye was worse, not better, I started to feel like it would be best to just go ahead and schedule the enucleation surgery.

Odin gets a few treats after EVERY SINGLE DOSE of medication, so he steps up and takes it like a champ, but it’s obviously not at all enjoyable. The drops are not that bad, but the ointment, especially, is a pain. It is hard to administer without poking him with the tip of the tube once in a while (especially as he quite naturally squints his eye muscles as tightly as possible, while I fight to pull his eyelids apart to get the tube close enough to the eye, instead of all over his eyelashes). It is goopy, and makes the whole area around his eye sticky, and seems to irritate him and sting a bit. How much happier will he be without these many administrations of medication every day? Much, I would think! And he can’t really see out of the eye as it is, anyway! Let’s just get this over with, I thought. But I was sad.

 

Odin's cornea 

A day later, my phone rang, and I recognized the number as originating from the VMTH (it’s been a long few months of interactions with the vets there!). The doctor who is doing the studies and who has examined Odin said, “Hey, I can’t stop thinking about Odin.”

I laughed. “Aww! Me, either!” I told her. “I’m really sad about his eye. I was really hoping we could do something for it.”

She said, “Well, I was thinking… There is one more thing we could try – but I have to warn you, it might not work, either.” She explained that there is a procedure where the Descemet’s membrane is surgically stripped away, and then the eye is treated with the same medication we were trying before, the one that is undergoing trials for approval in this country. So we’d be looking at a surgery, three weeks in a cone, and continuing the daily medications for up to a year. This approach has been fairly successful; I googled and easily found a human study that utilized the same approach that a 75 percent success rate.

But if it failed, he’d lose the eye, anyway.

So here I am, trying to decide. On one hand:

There are LOTS of perfectly happy, perfectly functional one-eyed dogs out there. We could surgically remove his eye next week and end his many months of daily administration of eye medications. Within three weeks he’d be ready to start finding his forever home. (Yes, I still want to find him a home somewhere else, so I can return to giving Otto more time and attention. But, believe me when I say it is going to have to be a PERFECT home, with someone who has lots of time and love and space for a special little dog.)

On the other hand:

Maybe this surgery and medication regime would work. It would address that bubble, that tear, whatever it is… and he just might recover his full eyesight. I would still be shopping for a home for him, but it would have to be someone within easy striking distance of the UCD VMTH, so he could continue to visit there regularly for follow-up studies. And if I can’t find that person, I could commit to continuing the daily damn drops (and commit my friends, too, who step up and take Odin and administer his medications when I have to travel and to whom I owe much!). But it might fail, and he’d still have to have the eye removed. The odds are good that I would end up keeping Odin after (potentially) many more months of living with him, which (perhaps) Odin would be happy about, but it would definitely come at the expense of more quality time with my old dog, Otto.

What would be “best” for Odin? I think he’d like to be done with eye pain, eye discomfort, and eye medication – and he can’t see much out of it right now, anyway. And there is no way to tell him that maybe, with more pain and time, he might recover his sight in that eye. And contribute to science! Pfft! Would he care about that? Would he be happier with (possibly) two eyes?

As of today, I just don’t know what I’m going to do. It’s a tough decision. Tell me, what would you do?

How NOT to Teach Your Puppy to Sit

3

I’ve always wondered the origin of the practice of pushing a puppy or dog’s bottom to the ground in order to “teach her to sit.” Who was the first person to do this, and why is the action so universally repeated by humans all over the world? And, given its ubiquity, why don’t people try this with kittens or chickens or any other species of animal? Why do people push dogs’ rear ends in an effort to force them to sit?

My guesses are these: People do it because it sometimes works; the dog or puppy learns that to avoid the discomfort of being forced to bend all the joints in their rear ends, they should just sit down. And that once someone has seen anyone else do this with apparent success, they think maybe they will try it, too!

But these are poor guesses, because I’ve shown hundreds of people how to get their puppies or dogs to sit without touching them – and without saying “Sit! Sit! SIT!” – and trainers I know have taught thousands and perhaps even tens of thousands of people, and yet the force-free way hasn’t seemed to have “gone viral” in the same way. Just last night, someone mentioned teaching a puppy to sit by pushing her bottom down to the ground and saying “Sit!”

Facts:

1. Dogs, and even very young puppies, already know how to sit.

2. What people seem to want to do is teach them to “sit on cue.”

3. Physically pushing and bending an uncomprehending friend into a different position while repeating a word they don’t know the meaning of is not the best way to accomplish #2.

As we have explained in many articles in WDJ, it’s incredibly easy to teach a dog or puppy to sit on cue and there are many ways to go about it. You can “capture” the sit (mark/reward every time the dog happens to sit), “lure” her into a sit and mark/reward, or “shape” the sit to look like the precise type of sit you want.

Using force – even just a gentle push on an adorable puppy’s back end – isn’t necessary to teach a dog to perform behaviors on cue. WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller, wrote a nice piece some years ago about training mistakes – and, from my perspective, attempting to teach sit (or any other behavior) in this way is pure folly.

Puppies Sitting Nicely for Food

Here are a bunch of foster pups who learned to sit on cue just from our mealtime routines.

 

puppies feeding time

 

Download the Full May 2019 Issue PDF

  • Oh Won't You Stay
  • Throw It For Me!
  • Addison's Disease
  • Aggression Unpacked
  • Calcium Is Key
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What is Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs?

English Springer Spaniel dog
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ Nigel_Wallace

Myasthenia gravis in dogs is a relatively rare neuromuscular disease in which there is a breakdown in the transmission of signals between nerves and muscles. Dogs with myasthenia gravis exhibit extreme weakness and excessive fatigue. The condition keeps muscles from contracting, causing affected dogs to become weak; severe weakness is the primary symptom of myasthenia gravis in dogs.

Certain dog breeds are predisposed to a congenital (inherited) form of myasthenia gravis, including English Springer Spaniels, Jack Russell Terriers, Smooth Fox Terriers and Smooth-haired Miniature Dachshunds. However, most cases are acquired and not inherited, so all puppies and dogs are at risk.

In most cases, myasthenia gravis is an acquired problem in adult dogs. It is thought to be the result of a defect in the dog’s immune system that causes antibodies to mistake the dog’s muscle receptors as the enemy – essentially attacking them and preventing them from working properly. This keeps the muscles from contracting, causing affected dogs to become weak. Female and male dogs are equally at risk.

Miniature Smooth Haired Dachshund.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ NORRIE3699

“For some reason, we often see peaks of acquired myasthenia gravis in dogs between the ages of two and four, and then again from nine to 13 years of age. Unfortunately, pet parents may think it is just the signs of aging of their senior dog, and not seek out proper diagnosis, management and treatment,” says W. Jean Dodds, DVM, and founder of Hemopet, the first non-profit national animal bloodbank.

Puppies with congenital myasthenia gravis are typically diagnosed at six to eight weeks of age.

The symptoms of myasthenia gravis in dogs are progressive and can vary greatly from dog to dog. The most common symptom is muscle weakness that worsens with exercise, but improves with rest.

Megaesophagus: A Common Result of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Often the esophagus is affected in dogs with myasthenia gravis; these dogs have trouble swallowing and drinking. When a dog’s esophagus loses its motility due to myasthenia gravis, secondary megaesophagus can occur. Megaesophagus is when the esophageal muscle relaxes so that food and liquids cannot be pushed down into the stomach by normal muscle contraction. In some situations, this condition may cause the dog to aspirate food and water, which can in turn result in aspiration pneumonia.

Smooth Fox Terrier
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ derevetskaira

Because megaesophagus can cause aspiration pneumonia, it is a dangerous symptom. Feeding dogs with megaesophagus can be done safely, but it requires some extra effort. Make sure that your dog’s head is elevated during feeding (and for 10 to 15 minutes afterward). Your veterinarian will work with you in finding the best way to make sure your dog can eat and drink without the risk of regurgitation or aspirating food/water.

Diagnosis of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

If your dog suffers from muscle weakness, alert your veterinarian at once. The vet will perform a complete physical exam and recommend the best choice of diagnostic testing.

If necessary, your dog will receive treatment specific to his needs. These may include the use of anticholinesterase drugs, which help to improve muscle strength by reducing the attack by antibodies on the dog’s muscle receptors.

Unfortunately, there is no prevention or cure for this disease. Treatment and careful at-home care can help dogs with myasthenia gravis maintain a quality of life for a reasonably long time. The more attention paid to the prevention of aspiration pneumonia, the better the prognosis for your dog.

“Myasthenia Gravis does demand patience and commitment from the pet caregiver,” emphasizes Dr. Dodds. “Remember, it is a progressive condition that does not have a cure, but we can try to slow the progression and side effects with the right supportive care and medications for a longer, quality life.”

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