This guarding-modification protocol, created by my friend and fellow trainer Kelly Fahey, owner of The DogSmith of Hunterdon in Pittstown, New Jersey, is a simple protocol that can be used by shelters, people who have adopted dogs who showed guarding behavior in the shelter or whose dogs started guarding in their new home, and by any dog owner with a guardy dog. When done properly, it teaches the dog that a person approaching means more good stuff is coming, helping to dispel the dog’s notion that the person might take her good stuff away.
The procedures should be undertaken by one person at first, then generalized to others.
As always, when modifying behavior, we want to remove as many opportunities for the dog to practice the unwanted behavior as possible. If a dog in a shelter is being “guardy” as visitors pass by, she is at risk of being triggered by every passerby, and her behavior will worsen. If possible, such a dog would benefit from being moved to a kennel in a ward without public access and brought out to be shown to potential adopters who seem like a good match.
Note: If at any time you elicit a growl or other guarding behavior, you are too close and/or have proceeded too quickly.
1. Tether the dog to an eye bolt affixed to the wall for that purpose, or to a solid, heavy object. Give her a valuable chew object (not a Kong – it will roll out of her reach) or a small bowl of food.
2. Have a good supply of high-value treats that you can toss easily. (Chicken does not work well for this – it’s too messy and hard to accurately toss.) Small bits of cheese or meat work well.
3. Walk past the dog at a safe distance. Depending on the dog, this may be six to eight feet beyond the end of the tether, or it may be closer. As you pass, toss several high-value treats near the bowl or chewy, where she can easily reach them. Keep walking; do not pause to toss. If the dog growls, lunges, or shows other obvious guarding behavior, you are too close.
4. Repeat Step 3 until, as you approach, you see the dog starting to look up in happy anticipation of the treats she expects you to toss. When she does this consistently, decrease the distance between yourself and the dog by a few inches as you pass by.
5. As long as she is consistently happy at each new distance, continue passing by and dropping treats, gradually getting closer to her when you pass.
6. When she is happy with you walking past at a distance close enough to touch her, pause as you pass and feed a treat from your hand. Then walk on.
7. When she stays happy with your pause-and-feed, gradually increase the length of time that you pause and feed her treats. The increase should be no more than 1 to 2 seconds. As you increase the length of your pause, start talking in a happy voice as you feed her the treats.
8. When you can pause for about 10 seconds and she stays happy, occasionally bend slightly and drop a treat into the bowl or next to her chewy, then feed some more from your hand and walk on.
9. Repeat, gradually increasing the number of times you bend and drop.
10. Now, gradually increase how much you bend over until you can touch the bowl or chewy. Remember, if you see any sign of tension you have moved too quickly. Back up a few steps and continue more slowly from there.
11. Finally, as you are pausing, bending, and feeding, occasionally play the Trade game, always returning the bowl or object to her after she has happily allowed you to take it.
12. Now, start the protocol over again at Step 1 with another staff member, volunteer, or reliable family member. Continue until the dog is comfortable with a variety of people approaching her. Repeat the process with any new family friends or shelter visitors that can follow your directions, always starting with Step 1.
Many (if not most) shelters use some sort of test to determine whether a dog exhibits a tendency toward resource-guarding, using a high-value food (like canned food) and a rubber hand on a stick (as seen above). The dog is allowed to start eating the food; then a handler attempts to stroke the dog gently with the hand, and then move – increasingly insistently – toward the food bowl. On the “shares easily” end of the spectrum, dogs couldn’t care less about the intrusion; at the opposite extreme, the dog exhibits dramatic guarding behaviors.
Resource-guarding in dogs – that is, protecting valuable possessions – is a natural, normal behavior. Yet at some point we humans developed the arrogant and misguided belief that we should have the right to take anything away from our dogs, any time we darn well please, and our dogs should have no right to object. Dogs who attempt to protect their valuable resources in their humans’ home tend to be punished, sometimes severely.
Until very recently, shelter dogs who exhibit resource guarding were almost always met with a more permanent outcome: euthanasia.
Should dogs really be met with cruelty or death because they’d prefer not to share their food, toys, or bed?
I’m a passionate advocate for families who want to adopt from a shelter and want a dog who won’t hurt other members of their family. But I also believe that many dogs who exhibit resource-guarding in the highly stressful environment of a shelter can be safely incorporated into many family homes.
ASSESSING RESOURCE GUARDING IN A SHELTER
Most shelters use some sort of behavior assessment, formal and structured or informal and ad hoc, to determine which unclaimed or relinquished dogs should advance to the shelter’s adoption program or be designated for behavior modification, and which should be deemed “unadoptable.” In recent years, the behavior assessments that are most widely employed by shelters have come under fire due to studies that suggest that they are not predictive and not replicable.
“Not predictive” refers to the studies’ findings that behaviors presented by dogs during a shelter assessment are very often never seen in the adoptive home – and, conversely, behaviors not seen in the shelter assessment often do occur after dogs are placed in homes.
“Not replicable” means that results of one shelter staff person’s assessment of a dog may be entirely different if the same dog is assessed by a different person, or on a different day. Both of these flaws put the validity of the assessment tools into question.
In our view, given that aggression is caused by stress, and even the best shelter in the world is a stressful place for almost any dog, it’s not surprising that a stressed shelter dog might be more likely to snap and snarl when pressured in the presence of a high-value resource – or in response to some of the other provocative procedures in an assessment.
The findings of recent studies about assessments put responsible shelters in a difficult position. How do they best ensure they are not putting dangerous dogs into the hands of the public if they cannot trust the results of their assessment protocols? There are no easy answers – but there are things that shelters can do to keep from killing dogs who are unlikely to cause harm after being adopted into a family environment:
Realize that resource-guarding is, indeed, a natural and normal canine behavior, especially for a dog who is living in a stressful environment.
Be more forgiving when a dog exhibits some tension over a valuable resource during the assessment process. Rather than an immediate “You failed!” response when a dog tenses or growls, gently pursue the process (assuming a fake hand is being used). During my long career working with shelters and doing assessments, I have seen a significant number of dogs de-escalate their level of tension when the assessor remained calm and continued the process with gentle persistence.
Recognize that a dog who stiffens and growls during the procedure is communicating, not attacking. She is saying, “This is mine and I don’t want to share.” If you proceed (inappropriately, in her estimation) after giving you a polite warning, she may escalate to a more intense, “I really mean it; this is mine and you can’t have it.” Though her behavior may seem aggressive to inexperienced dog owners, the dog is actually showing admirable restraint and still may be a good adoption candidate for an appropriate home, without further intervention needed.
If the shelter is uncomfortable placing dogs who exhibit the kind of behavior described above, its management could establish a behavioral foster program. Staff and/or volunteers who are knowledgeable and capable of working with behaviorally challenging dogs can assess and work to modify their guarding behavior in the shelter. Alternatively, the dog could be placed in a foster home (with one of those experienced dog-savvy volunteers or staff members) to see if this is one of those behaviors that ceases when the dog is no longer dealing with the stress of the shelter environment.
Continue to consider dogs who show an extreme response to a reasonably mild threat to their resources as not-adoptable, unless the shelter has the expertise and resources to do significant behavior modification.
The shelter that I worked with a few years ago created a continuum that spelled out how dogs who offered varying degrees of resource-guarding behavior would be handled (see the table below). Each possible response corresponded with a specific recommendation. As a result, they began safely and successfully placing many dogs who, previously, would have been euthanized.
Shelter Assessment Resource-Guarding Continuum
This table is an assessment form for a resource-guarding evaluation.
The left column describes possible responses that a dog might exhibit to a test in which the dog is given a valuable resource, such as canned food or a favorite toy, and then a handler attempts (with an artificial hand on a stick) to take the resource from the dog.
Dogs who display behaviors marked on the “Shares easily” end of the spectrum could be placed in any home. If their responses were marked somewhere in the middle of the spectrum, they were placed for adoption with restrictions (such as “no small children” or “experienced home only”), moved to the shelter’s behavioral foster program, or sent to a known rescue with behavior modification resources. If, however, their behavior was judged to match the most extreme descriptions at the “Guards Resource” end of the spectrum, they would be judged a candidate for euthanasia.
WORKING WITH A DOG WHO RESOURCE-GUARDS
Today, progressive trainers and shelter managers are aware that resource-guarding behavior can be managed, modified, and/or minimized. It requires understanding that this is a natural, normal canine behavior; a willingness to modify the dog’s environment in order to set him up for success; and, depending on the degree of drama that the dog brings to his guarding, a bit of work.
This 10-pound dog displayed dramatic resource-guarding behavior when he was inherited by WDJ Editor Nancy Kerns through a relative, he might have been euthanized on the basis of this had he landed in a shelter. But in a dog-savvy home without children or other vulnerable people, this behavior was just ignored or managed. After all, he was very small and not a real threat. If someone needed to take something away from him, they would trade him a treat – easy!
From the outset, adopters of all dogs (not just those with a history of guarding) need to be educated that the concept “I should be able to take anything away from my dog” is false and dangerous.
Then, whether the dog is living in a shelter or in a home, the first critical task is to make sure that no one (purposely or unwittingly) antagonizes the dog into aggressive behavior. All staff and volunteers or family members need to be thoroughly trained on procedures for working with the dog and minimizing guarding behavior; obviously, only staff or family members who are capable of and committed to staying cognizant and alert to these procedures should be allowed in the dog’s proximity.
When handling any item that has any value for the dog, people need to learn how to safely trade with the dog for anything he might covet, including bowls, toys, or anything he might have randomly grabbed, such as a dropped cell phone or keys (see “Protocol for a Safe Trade”).
When circumstances prevent a trade from taking place, the dog’s handlers should manage the environment to prevent the dog from having an opportunity to guard. For example, in a shelter, the staff might be instructed to move the dog to the other side of a double-sided kennel (and closing the door between them) before picking up items in the kennel; in a home, Mom would be instructed to put the dog outside before she picked up his empty food bowl.
YOU CAN MANAGE
Most resource-guarding behavior is much more easily managed or modified than once thought. In an appropriate adoption home, with family members mature and committed enough to adhere to management protocols, resource-guarding doesn’t have to be an issue at all.
The same is true in a shelter with adequate understanding and resources. Complications arise with young or careless handlers, those who resist the new understanding of guarding behavior, and/or those who may deliberately undermine management protocols.
Nevertheless, the time is long past for resource-guarding to be a capital offense for our canine companions. Dogs have a right to want to keep their good stuff. Manage the home or shelter environment so stress and conflicts over resources don’t have to occur. Implement “Trade” and guarding behavior modification protocols as needed to keep everyone safe and happy. And let them live.
If your dog frequently burps, regurgitates, and licks her lips, she may be signaling discomfort from an ulcer and/or an H.Pylori infection.
Gastric ulcers also called stomach ulcers can be a pain – causing indigestion, reflux, and discomfort. But did you know that stomach ulcers in dogs are also a problem? It’s true!
The problem with stomach ulcers in dogs is that they can’t tell us when they have heartburn. The symptoms can be very subtle and may often be misdiagnosed or overlap with other conditions. Further, the problems that are often associated with ulcers in humans (stress and Helicobacter pylori infections) are not well-described or understood in dogs.
Stomach ulcers in dogs are usually gastroduodenal – meaning they are located in the stomach and upper intestinal tract, specifically the duodenum.
The stomach is comprised of four layers: The innermost is the mucosa, which is generally protected from the stomach acid by several important physiological mechanisms. The next layer is the submucosa, then the muscularis, the muscle that moves and contracts to cause peristalsis, the movement of the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. Lastly, on the outside, is the serosa.
A stomach ulcer is a spot in which the normal, healthy tissue has been eroded away. The spot becomes irritated and friable, and bleeds easily. Ulcers can involve only the mucosa or can go full thickness through to the serosa (or any layer in between). When the serosa is involved, the ulcer is considered perforated, as now the stomach contents can leak outside of the GI tract.
SIGNS OF STOMACH ULCERS IN DOGS
The symptoms of a stomach ulcer in dogs are varied and include decreased appetite, frequent burping or regurgitation, lip licking and drooling, vomiting with fresh or digested/dark blood, weight loss, abdominal pain, and dark, tarry stool (called melena). Of these, about 90% of dogs will present with vomiting.
Because these symptoms can represent an extremely large variety of problems, a thorough physical examination with your veterinarian is the first step in addressing these concerns.
There are no specific breed, sex, or age differences in patients with gastric ulcers. It is interesting to note, however, that extremely athletic dogs such as Iditarod sled dogs do have a higher prevalence of gastric ulcers. If you have an agility dog with these symptoms, gastric ulceration should be on the list as a possible cause. It is not well understood why this is the case.
H Pylori and Canine Ulcers
Helicobacter pylori is well known as a cause of gastric ulceration in humans. This bacteria infects over 50% of people, though many never have symptoms.
H. pylori has also been isolated in dogs. However, its significance in relation to gastric ulcers in dogs is unknown. The GI tract of some dogs can be populated with H. pylori even though the dog never has symptoms of GI problems, while others have symptoms but no H. pylori.
If gastric ulcers are present, and a cause cannot be found, H. pylori may be the culprit. It can be diagnosed either with a biopsy taken during endoscopy or by appropriate empirical therapy. Treatment is a month of the antibiotics metronidazole and amoxicillin, as well as antacids such as famotidine (Pepcid) or omeprazole (Prilosec).
CAUSES OF STOMACH ULCERS IN DOGS
There are a number of things that can cause ulcers in dogs.
NSAIDs/corticosteroids. The best-known cause of canine ulcers is the use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and corticosteroids (such as prednisone and dexamethasone).
These drugs are amazing and useful for many conditions like acute injury and arthritis. As a result, they are prescribed frequently. Both decrease inflammation by inhibiting prostaglandins (PGs). However, if the dog’s prostaglandin levels are decreased too much and/or for too long, stomach ulceration can occur, since PGs are critical for maintaining a healthy stomach barrier against acid.
While NSAIDs are extremely beneficial drugs for the management of pain, they do not come free of side effects and risks. Therefore, when managing painful conditions, it is reasonable to start with alternative and complementary therapies such as physical therapy, joint supplements (e.g., glucosamine and chondroitin), fish oils, and acupuncture prior to using NSAIDs.
Unfortunately, steroids are critical for the management of certain autoimmune conditions such as immune-mediated hemolytic anemia and thrombocytopenia. In those cases, they cannot be avoided, so monitoring for the symptoms of gastric ulceration is critical.
Important: Steroids and NSAIDs should almost never be used in combination. There are rare cases such as autoimmune diseases where high doses of steroids will be used with very low doses of aspirin, but these are specific conditions. In most cases, the two should never be administered together. Doing so significantly increases the risk of life-threatening ulcers.
It is also crucial to remember not to administer over-the-counter products to your dogs. Ibuprofen, naproxen, meloxicam, ketorolac, and aspirin are all human NSAIDs. These can be extremely toxic to dogs, leading to gastric ulceration and kidney failure.
Endocrine disorders. Both Addison’s disease (a lack of cortisol) and Cushing’s disease (an excess of cortisol) are known to predispose to gastric ulceration. If your dog has either of these conditions, your veterinarian should be on the lookout for gastric ulcers.
Acute and chronic kidney disease. As kidneys fail, the body loses its ability to rid itself of toxins. Gastric acid levels go up, leading to ulcers. The signs of kidney disease can be exactly the same as that of ulceration, so treatment for both is usually started.
Tumors. Mast cell tumors are common in Boxers and other breeds. They secrete histamine (responsible for allergic reactions), which increases gastric acid secretion and predisposes to ulcers. Gastrinomas are tumors found in the stomach and will also release large amounts of gastric acid.
Other, less common causes. These include liver disease, inflammatory bowel disease, foreign bodies, and ingestion of caustic materials.
DIAGNOSIS
If your dog has symptoms of gastric ulceration, the first step is consulting with your veterinarian. A thorough physical exam and diagnostics are needed to rule out many of the above causes. This will include a nose-to-tail physical and bloodwork such as a complete blood count and a chemistry panel.
Findings may include anemia and low proteins (from blood loss though the ulcer) and an elevated blood urea nitrogen (BUN). In some cases, white blood cell counts may be elevated in response to inflammation.
Other tests that your veterinarian may be able to do include a barium study and abdominal ultrasound. In a barium study, a large amount of bright contrast is given to a dog by mouth. Radiographs are taken immediately and then at various predetermined intervals. The barium shows up bright white on x-ray. It can show defects in the stomach.
Ultrasound can also be used to evaluate for ulcers, although they can be very difficult to see. If a stomach mass such as a gastrinoma is causing the ulceration, then ultrasound may be able to identify it.
Specialized testing can more definitively diagnose an ulcer. Endoscopy is the gold standard, but this isn’t available at many clinics. Generally, you must be referred to a specialist for an endoscopy, which will be done under anesthesia. While asleep, a camera is passed down the esophagus and into a dog’s stomach and upper small intestine. Frequently small samples are taken (biopsy) for definitive diagnosis. The results can take one to two weeks.
HOW TO TREAT STOMACH ULCERS IN DOGS
A dog is placed under full anesthesia and intubated in preparation for an endoscopic exam. His mouth is held open with an instrument so the veterinarian has plenty of room to insert and maneuver the endoscope. The instrument can be used to take pictures and samples of the stomach tissue for biopsy – the only sure way to 100% confirm an H. pylori infection.
Treatment for gastric ulceration depends on the underlying cause. If one is not found, then general treatment includes antacids, a bland diet, and gastroprotectants such as sucralfate. If a bacterial cause is considered (see “H. Pylori and Canine Ulcers,” above), then a specific therapy with antibiotics is recommended.
The major classes of antacids are proton pump inhibitors (PPIs) and H2 blockers. Both work in slightly different ways to lower gastric acid production. Famotidine (Pepcid) is an H2 blocker, while omeprazole and pantoprazole are PPIs.
Carafate (sucralfate) is another drug frequently used in the management of ulcers. It is a soothing agent that coats ulcerated areas. It is given as a tablet dissolved in water (a slurry). It can be give up to three times a day for relief of discomfort.
Other approaches may include a bland diet such as boiled chicken and rice. Probiotics can be added to food to maintain normal GI flora populations. Slippery elm and ginger may have some positive effects on GI ulcers, as well.
Perforated stomach ulcers are severe, life-threatening emergencies. A perforation occurs when the ulcer has eroded completely through all four layers of the stomach or intestine. This allows leakage of bacteria-laden stomach and intestinal fluid into the abdominal cavity, leading to massive inflammation, infection, and sepsis. Treatment for perforated ulcers includes stabilization of shock and infection followed by surgery to repair the ulcers.
PROGNOSIS
Prognosis varies and depends on the underlying cause. For uncomplicated ulcers and ulcers related to H. pylori, prognosis is good with appropriate treatment. It is important to know that they can recur. Discontinuation of NSAIDs and steroids (when possible) will improve the prognosis for cases related to these medications. In the case of perforated ulcers, prognosis is guarded.
Most dogs enjoy a good roll on the grass; it helps scratch their itches (and helps stretch and adjust their spines in the process!) To our horror, many dogs also seek out strong-smelling substances to roll in, seeming to take delight in covering their shoulders, necks and heads with a greasy fish carcass, cat poop, or any dead animal they could find.
The walk starts innocently enough. Then you realize your dog, who has scampered ahead of you, has hit the ground and is writhing gleefully atop an odoriferous animal carcass or some excrement of unknown origin.
Sound, or, perhaps more accurately, smell familiar?
Most every dog owner can recount tales of their canine companions having rolled in something stinky, often at the most inopportune time, like shortly following a bath. Why do dogs do this? And why do they always choose odors that are maximally offensive to us, like dead animals or poop, and not the lovely lavender patch?
Truth is, we don’t specifically know, but there are several theories out there:
Stink facilitates stealth? Many have suggested the behavior is an evolutionary carryover from dogs’ days as wild predators, noting the tendency of wolves to roll in feces and atop animal carcasses. Some biologists have suggested this behavior could be designed to assist with hunting by masking or camouflaging a dog’s own predator scent in an effort to more effectively sneak up on prey.
We may not know why dogs roll in smelly substances, but there is no mistaking the look of joy and delight on a dog’s face for anything else when they are hard at it.
Stanley Coren, Ph.D., author of several books about dog behavior and “Canine Corner” columnist for Psychology Today, notes this idea makes both evolutionary and adaptive sense. He explained that if an antelope smelled the scent of a wild dog, jackal, or wolf nearby, the antelope would likely bolt and run for safety. But, because antelopes are used to the smell of their own droppings and carrion (decaying flesh) is common on open plains, “prey animals are less likely to be frightened or suspicious of a hairy thing coated with that smell,” he wrote in one of his columns.
Renowned behaviorist and author Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., is skeptical about that theory. In a 2015 blog post exploring potential reasons why dogs roll in substances that we find to be highly unsavory, she points out how “most prey animals are highly visual, and use sight and sound to be on alert for predators.”
She argues that, first, hoofed animals have greater peripheral vision due to the placement of their eyes, and they have ears that “swivel around like mobile satellite dishes.” If a prey animal’s sense of smell is adept enough to recognize predator scent, says McConnell, the animal can likely recognize that scent even when layered with the similar scent of its same species, or that of carrion from the surrounding area.
Finally, some scientists have noted that, while wolves sometimes ambush their targets while hunting, it’s more common for them to chase down prey, lessening the need for as stealthy an approach.
Advertising access to resources? Another theory is that rolling around in feces or atop a carcass is a way to share valuable information with other dogs. Researchers at Wolf Park in Battleground, Ind., have found that wolves often followed a scent to its source after smelling it on a pack-mate. In the wild, returning to the pack awash in eau de dead animal might help lead others to a source of food. At the very least, it advertises one’s ability to access a valuable resource, which can make for an attractive mate.
Is it about the dog’s scent? A lesser-supported hypothesis is that the rolling behavior might be to distribute the dog’s scent onto the stinky item, rather than the other way around. This seems like a largely ineffective method compared to marking with urine or feces, especially when dealing with matter so pungent, so experts believe this is unlikely.
It’s fun?! There’s no mistaking a dog’s sheer delight as they roll about, often oblivious to our despair. Some scientists believe the behavior triggers a rush of dopamine, a neurotransmitter involved in reward and pleasure. While the behavior likely served an important function in dogs’ evolutionary past, for today’s domesticated dogs, that function has vanished, but the behavior remains because it feels good.
My own dog is known for his daily exuberant rolls in the park, usually commencing after a few happy retrieves of a favorite ball. He’ll trot a few steps away, lie down, and proceed to flip belly up, legs flailing as his body lurches side to side. His tongue hangs from his mouth and he snorts in delight, looking absolutely joyful. To me the message seems clear: Let the good times roll!
WHAT CAN YOU DO?
As with many things in dog training, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you’re likely to encounter nasty things in which your dog will want to roll, keep him on-leash! If using a long line or allowing your dog off leash, pay attention to your dog! Time with your dog, especially when you’ve chosen to let him off leash, should be spent engaged with your dog, not your mobile device.
Australian Kelpies were historically bred to work sheep, a hardy and tough breed, they also excel at herding cattle. This Kelpie-mis loves cattle…poop! She covers herself with fresh, wet cow poop any chance she gets, so, no more off-leash walks in cow pastures!
1. Practice name recognition. Teach your dog to quickly orient to you when you say his name. Begin this behavior in a familiar area with few to no distractions and work your way up. With your dog on leash, casually maneuver so that you’re behind him. Say his name. When he turns to look at you, mark the moment using a clicker or marker word such as “Yes!” and offer a treat paired with praise and enjoyable petting.
If he doesn’t turn around, repeat his name up to two more times, using a happy, upbeat tone of voice. If he hasn’t turned around after three tries, playfully tap him on the rear to get his attention, praising him enthusiastically as he turns around. From there, evaluate the situation to determine what made the behavior so challenging. Likely, he was distracted by something and the “pull” of the distraction was too great.
Before trying again, make a point to move away from the distraction, stacking the deck in your favor that he’ll be able to respond to his name within three tries. The goal is to make it easy for him to be correct. The more we can reward the desired response, the more we’ll see the desired response and the faster it will happen.
When this behavior is solid, the dog should happily turn toward you, if not return to you, in anticipation of a reward. Use this behavior randomly while on walks to build and maintain a strong reinforcement history. It’s a great way to keep a dog out of trouble, especially when he’s off leash.
When my dog appears to be taking interest in something – especially if I can’t see what it is – I use his name (or formal recall cue) to call him back to me and we approach together. If the item is on the “approved list” he’s free to check it out. If not, I’ve prevented an unwanted situation.
2. Teach a solid recall. As a trainer, I can’t stress this enough. The single most important behavior you can teach your dog is to reliably come when called. A dog who comes when called is more likely to earn the freedom to safely experience off-leash adventures in appropriate settings and is overall safer in general.
3. Reward all natural check-ins. As you walk with your dog, especially when he’s up ahead of you via a long line or when he’s off leash, pay attention to the moments when he pauses and looks back at you or chooses to return without being called. Reinforcing these natural check-ins with praise, petting, and the frequent addition of treats reinforces the idea that you’re walking together.
The more you’re walking in partnership with your dog, the greater the chance he can still happily explore the environment without becoming so fixated on any one thing (like something gross he wants to roll in) that he ignores your attempts to redirect his attention or call him away from something gross.
4. Anticipate problem areas. If you can predict where or when your dog is likely to roll in something foul, don’t give him the opportunity to do so. Maybe it’s the parkway flowerbed three doors down, the one the neighborhood cats routinely use as a litter box.
If you’ve been burned by your dog’s stop, drop, and roll antics, don’t let him pull you toward the danger zone, even if it seems he only wants an innocent sniff. Keep your dog’s attention on you as you approach and pass the flowerbed of doom using upbeat conversation and praise paired with treats and a favorite toy as necessary. Make not stopping to look for cat poop in which to roll more fun than doing so.
Getting Rid of the Stench
If you find yourself needing to bathe an especially stinky dog, we recommend the age-old recipe for de-skunking a dog, as the combination of the two main ingredients effectively break down natural odors. Mix one quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with ¼ cup baking soda in a bucket or large bowl. Stir in a teaspoon or two of grease-cutting liquid soap; using a grease-cutting soap is important because many foul-smelling, organic substances are oily. Make sure the hydrogen peroxide is fresh and fizzy; it’s an unstable compound that, over time, will break down and lose its effectiveness as an odor neutralizer.
Rub the mixture into the dog’s coat, avoiding the eyes and lips (it stings!), and let it sit briefly before rinsing. Don’t wait too long to rinse, as the peroxide can bleach the coat. Do not attempt to store any leftover formula; the combination of ingredients can explode if left in a bottle.
There are also several deodorizing shampoos available commercially. We’ve heard good things about Durvet Naturals Basics Deodorizing Shampoo and Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover, which works on a variety of odors, not just skunk spray. The Nature’s Miracle product is also safe to use on clothing and carpet.
As a dog owner, it’s never a bad idea to keep an odor-removing product on hand – just in case! – so they don’t have to be left to spread the stink around while you are out buying something to get it off of them!
DAMAGE CONTROL
If your dog does manage to hit the deck and adorn herself in something gross, don’t get mad at her. After all, she’s engaging in perfectly normal dog behavior, and we, as her handler, gave her the opportunity, even if by accident.
Instead, focus on interrupting the behavior as quickly as possible to minimize the damage, and be sure to praise as soon as she’s on her feet. This can take great self-control, especially when you’re now standing next to a stinky, manure-covered canine, but it’s important to reward her compliance.
It’s always a good idea to keep a cleanup kit in your car. Dogs will be dogs, and we never know when an innocent walk in the park will result in a muddy or stink-covered canine. My dogs ride in crates, which makes it super easy to contain a mess.
If that’s not an option, a couple of towels, a large jug of water, and an old sheet to fully protect the car’s interior will go a long way toward getting everyone home – or to the nearest groomer – as cleanly as possible. Another great suggestion is to add an old t-shirt to the cleanup kit and make the offending dirty dog wear it as a barrier between the grossness and your car.
Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California. She works in the puppy department at Guide Dogs of America, helping to recruit and manage volunteer puppy raisers.
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I’ve been haunted for some years ago by an experience with a shelter dog. The person who does the evaluations of prospective adoption candidates at my local shelter asked me if I could spend some time with the backlog of dogs waiting for assessment; she asked me to hang out with them and make some notes about them.
There was one dog I particularly liked; a Rottweiler- or perhaps a Swiss Mountain Dog-mix. She was cute, friendly, and smart. I recommended that she advance to the adoption row, and photographed her so she’d have a nice promotional picture on the shelter website. But a day later, I got a call from the evaluator (who is also a friend). “I know you really liked that big black dog in kennel 9,” she said, “but I wanted to let you know that I’m not going to advance her.” That was meant to be a gentle euphemism; I knew she meant euthanasia. I was shocked; I thought the dog was lovely. “Oh, shoot. Why?” My friend heard the emotion in my voice and said, “If you want, you can come back and I’ll show you what I didn’t like.”
The next day I spent about a half-hour playing with the dog; I still really liked her!Then my friend joined me, and we put a leash on the dog and led her into a quiet room in the shelter. I decided to take video of the assessment; the photo that appears on the cover and also on page 9, accompanying WDJ Training Editor Pat Miller’s article on resource-guarding, is a still taken from the video I recorded.
My friend put a bowl full of canned dog food on the floor for the dog, who dove right into the moist stew. And then my friend used a tool that is widely employed by shelters in these food-guarding evaluations, a rubber hand on the end of a stick. It enables the evaluator to pretend to reach for or pick up the dog’s food while she’s still eating it, so it can be ascertained whether the dog will display any guarding behavior, without any person actually being bitten.
In less than a minute, the dog sped right through all the behaviors listed on the “resource-guarding assessment form” we’ve reproduced on page 10: freezing, growling, flashing a “whale eye,” flipping the bowl away from the hand, snarling, gesturing with her head toward the hand, performing an “air snap” in the direction of the hand, and finally, giving it a solid bite. And after she finished the food, she appeared to go right back to being the sunny, friendly dog I liked so much.
I was stunned; I hadn’t ever experienced a dog like that. I told my friend I understood and trusted her judgment – but, days later, I was still having second thoughts. I called and asked Pat Miller: “Can behavior like that be modified?” and she assured me it could. But the dog was already dead.
I hope that Pat’s insights and recommendations in this article can save some other “guardy” dog’s life – and keep his or her family safe, too.
As coronavirus confinement stretches on, dogs and humans are getting buggier by the day from lack of exercise. While there are limits to the physical exercise you two can do while shut-in, there are many indoor dog games you can enjoy together.
In recent years, behavior scientists have refuted prior thinking that dog brains were pretty limited. (Scientists now acknowledge that canines have extensive cognitive abilities, which has given rise to a whole new range of canine toys, games and training protocols.. Because thinking is very tiring (remember studying for that chemistry exam?), the really good news is that brain exercise can be as tiring and fun as physical exercise.
Here are some of our favorite indoor dog games to help you and your dog survive social distancing during the coronavirus pandemic:
Muffin Tin Game: Take a muffin tin and as many tennis balls as your tin has cups. Place a treat in each cup, and press a tennis ball into the cup. Show your dog there’s a treat under the ball if necessary, then hold the tin while she works to recover the goodies.
Tootsie Rug Roll: Let your dog watch you roll up a carpet runner as you drop treats into the runner every six to twelve inches. When the carpet is completely rolled up say “Find it!” and let her figure out how to nudge the roll open to get to the treats. Sometimes feed her meals this way!
Watch Closely: Put three opaque drinking mugs on the floor (wood or vinyl floor works best). Show your dog a treat and place it under one mug. Say “Find it!” and wait for her to nose one of the mugs. When she does, pick up that mug. If the treat is there, let her eat it. If it’s not, cheerfully say, “Too bad!” reset the treat and mugs, and repeat. When she noses the correct mug reliably 8 out of 10 times, take the next step: put the treat under one mug, and shuffle two of the three mugs once. The treat is now moved by one spot. Say “Find it!” Pick up the mug she noses. If it’s there let her eat it. If not, say “Too bad!” and repeat. When she’s successful 8 out of 10 tries, increase difficulty, first by shuffling all three mugs briefly, then shuffling for longer periods.
Cognition Games
Cognition means “mental processes involved in gaining knowledge and comprehension, including thinking, knowing, remembering, judging and problem-solving.” As we learn more about canine cognition, we add even more creativity to our training.
Choice: Let your dog watch you close a treat in one fist. Offer him both closed fists and say “You choose!” Open the fist he sniffs first. If the treat is there, let him eat it. If it’s not, say “Too bad!” and repeat. When he chooses the treat-fist 8 out of 10 times, generalize “You choose” to other situations and let him indicate his choice. Go the door and say “Inside or outside? You choose!” Let his body language tell you which he wants, and honor his choice. Take him for a walk on leash, and when the path divides, say “This way or that way? You choose!” Do these (and many more) as frequently as possible, and he’ll happily understand what it means when you are giving him a choice.
Object Discrimination: Start with objects your dog already interacts with. Say “Ball, touch!” and invite him to touch it with his nose or paw. Repeat until he does this promptly and reliably, then do it with a second known object: “Fluffy, touch!” Now hold out both objects with one much closer to him, and ask him to touch the one that’s closer. Repeat, randomly swapping the closer one. Gradually decrease the offset until both are the same distance and he can touch the requested item reliably 8 of 10 times. Now add other objects to his repertoire, including new objects that you name.
There are many more cognitive and interactive games you can teach your dog, including reading, color discrimination, imitation and painting.
These days, the fun you can have with your dog indoors is limited only by your imagination and creativity. Time to get busy!
I read an article the
other day about a pork processing plant in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, shutting
down due to hundreds of workers becoming infected with COVID 19; at
the time the article was published, 293 of the 730 people in South Dakota who
had been diagnosed with COVID-19 [as of April 12, the number has increased] work
at the plant.
My very first thought was not “OMG, how will this affect my bacon supply?” but, “OMG, I
wonder how the dog food companies are faring.”
Pet Food Production Is An Essential Service
Food production is an essential service – even pet food production. But any manufacturing plant brings people close together and can be a vector for transmission of a virus. That said, in my experience, it takes far more employees to operate a meat-packing plant than a pet food manufacturing plant, and the employees who work on the butchering and packaging lines work far closer together than employees at pet food manufacturing plants.
So far, we’re not seeing any reports of pet food companies
slowing or stopping production. Pet food manufacturers might be more hampered
by ingredient shortages than manpower shortages, at least in the short term –
and so, at some point in the next few months, some of us might be unable to
find our dogs’ favorite food when we run out.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) released a statement
regarding the actions it is taking to safeguard the food (and pet food) supply,
and assuring the public that empty shelves are due to unprecedented demand, not
a lack of capacity to produce, process, and deliver food. The pet food industry
trade publications, too, report that while manufacturers are taking steps to
protect the health and safety of their workers and their products, for the most
part, the pet food producers are, if anything, increasing production to meet demand.
The coronavirus crisis has increased pet food demand
And demand has been high. Pet trade industry publications confirm
that consumers definitely stocked up on pet food in March. Petfood Industry conducted
a poll of pet food companies, and reported that 52% of 81 respondents stated
that sales increased substantially since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Another 28% reported that sales had increased “somewhat.”
A different trade publication, Pet
Food Processing, also conducted a poll of pet food
manufacturers, and reported that 63% of respondents said they had seen an
increase in demand for their products.
None of us want to be caught short of
food for our beloved animal companions – hence the stocking up. But I want to
remind owners that while processed pet food has a very convenient shelf life,
it’s not indefinite. Dry food, in
particular, degrades over time, with the fats in the food becoming increasingly
rancid.
Dog food has a limited shelf life
Most dry dog foods are sold with a “best if purchased by” date that’s about 9 months to 18 months past its date of manufacture; 12 months is average. Natural preservatives such as “mixed tocopherols” (vitamin E) or ascorbic acid (vitamin C) don’t prevent rancidity as long as artificial preservatives such as BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, but these synthetic preservatives have been associated with adverse health effects. The foods that are preserved with these synthetic chemicals will last the longest (and be labeled with the most distant “best by” dates), but, in general, these products also tend to have additional attributes that will disqualify them from WDJ’s “approved foods” lists.
Canned foods, of course, last a lot
longer, entirely without preservatives. They are much more expensive, however.
Same with freeze-dried and frozen foods.
Buying an extra bag or two, or even a
couple months’ worth of food in advance, might help you reduce the number of
trips you need to make out of your home, but please don’t go crazy and buy a
year’s worth of food. I guarantee that, by the time you feed the last of it,
some of it will be degraded and rancid enough to give your dog chronic
diarrhea.
Don’t forget to switch your dog’s food
Instead, practice the same kind of
flexible feeding that we have always recommended; if you frequently switch the
brand and varieties of food you feed your dog, it won’t be a problem if one or
more of your favorites is temporarily unavailable. In a pinch, I’d probably
advise feeding a fresher, lower-quality food than a really old, super
high-quality food, even if the bag had been kept in the ideal cool, dry, dark
storage place for the entire time (and how many of you even have a place like
that year-round for food storage?).
The only exceptions? Those of you whose
dogs have severe food allergies and need to feed a rigidly controlled diet that
doesn’t vary. If this describes you and your dog, you have my utmost
sympathies. You probably already have secured a supply of your dog’s food that
will last at least a month or two; just try not to go crazy and buy a whole
year’s worth.
Keep taking those dogs and yourselves
for daily walks! Now, more than ever, we all need them for health.
A whole lot of dog owners are working from home now, thanks to the coronavirus pandemic. Lots of dogs are loving it – and lots of dog owners are discovering that their canine companions are really good at demanding their attention while they are trying to work. Since it looks like this social isolation situation is likely to last a while, we’re sharing some management and training protocols to help get you and your four-footed pal(s) through self-quarantine.
Our first, very important piece of advice is – remember to not reinforce your dog’s demand behavior. Try to anticipate her need for attention and spend time with her before she gets pushy. Tire her out in the morning before you sit down in front of your computer so she’ll be happy to lie quietly at your feet when you’re ready to work. Then, if she’s nudgy or barky for attention, ignore her until she is calm and quiet. Of course no hitting or yelling. Remember to reinforce her appropriate behaviors!
Here is a survival guide for dog owners working from home:
Exercise: A tired dog is a happy owner. While there may be some restrictions on going for walks, that doesn’t stop you from doing other things. (A walk on leash isn’t really much exercise for your dog anyway!) If your dog will fetch a ball or a toy, throw one in the yard (or down the hall, or down the stairs – carpeted for safety) until she’s ready to collapse at your feet. Some dogs learn to love a treadmill (this one will take some training!). Put brooms across chairs in your living room and encourage your dog to jump over them. Other indoor exercise games include On-the-Bed, Off-the-Bed; back-and-forth recalls with family members on different levels and at different ends of the house… get creative!!
Scent Work: This activity is amazingly tiring for dogs, and wonderfully fun for dog and human. Start by letting your dog watch you hide a few treats, then release her to find them. Eventually put her in another room while you hide treats, then let her look for them. (Don’t help her!). You can even hide yourself (or your kids) and let her find you! (Related: Everyone Nose That, September 2019)
Enrichment: Rather than feeding your dog and then sitting down, put her meals in food-dispensing toys and let her work for her food while you work. Keeps her busy, and uses up energy canine energy. (Related:Play With Your Food, April 2019)
Training: You now have time to train your dog – no excuses. (If there is an upside to coronavirus, this might be it.) You can teach everything from basic manners training to tricks and more to help your dog learn to behave more appropriately in your home – and to tire her out. (Related Tricks for Clicks, April 2016).
Especially useful behaviors to train for dog-bugging-you issues include “Settle,” (See Give It a Rest, September 2015,) and mat work (See Useful Matters, January 2020). It’s also very useful to teach an “All done” cue. When you’re finished throwing the ball or toy, say “All done!” in a cheerful tone of voice and put the ball away in a drawer and ignore any of her attempts to get you to engage. This cue can eventually generalize so that when you say “All done!” she’ll know you mean it and there’s no point in bugging you for more.
Management: Last, but not least… you can use a crate or exercise pen, or even a tether, to restrain your dog near you while you work but prevent her from physically bugging you. You are likely, at least at first, to have to provide her with those food dispensing toys mentioned about, or some other long-lasting chew, and she’ll do better if you’ve exercised her well in advance, but in time there’s a very good chance she’ll learn the routine and be able to settle for you. If she’s not already crate or ex-pen trained, now’s the perfect time!
Now when your boss says quit playing with your dog and get back to work, you can.
Wow, the world has changed so much in such a short time. This occurs to me several times a day, but today’s biggest shock was a blog post written by Julie Levy, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, DABVP, Fran Marino Endowed Professor of Shelter Medicine Education, Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program, University of Florida – in other words, a highly educated, passionate proponent of spay/neuter practices, especially in shelter medicine. Dr. Levy’s shocking post? A plea for shelter and rescue programs to suspend spay/neuter surgeries temporarily in order to support “safer at home” practices, slowing the spread of COVID-19.
It takes a village
While all operations of an animal
shelter require workers to show up to care for the animals, surgery, in
particular, brings people together in very close quarters. Of course, sterile
conditions are maintained during surgery. But I’ve been behind the scenes at
both veterinary clinics and shelters when they were doing back-to-back
spay/neuter surgeries. There is a small army
of people working in support of the veterinarian who performs the surgeries:
people bathing animals, taking their temperatures, inducing sedation, shaving
them, helping intubate and secure them on the surgery table, monitoring the
anesthesia equipment, moving “packs” of sterilized surgical tools through the
process (delivering clean packs to the vet, taking away used instruments,
readying the used instruments for sterilization), providing the sort of routine
husbandry tasks that are immensely easier when the patient is still sedated
(ear cleaning, nail-trimming, expressing anal glands), monitoring the animals
after surgery and helping them “wake up” safely. Social distancing is
impossible in this setting – and performing all of these tasks under layers of
protective equipment is a lot more challenging in the (perennially) tighter
confines of a veterinary surgical suite.
For those of us who volunteer or work
closely with shelters or rescues, spay/neuter is a third-rail sort of
proposition. There are no stronger proponents of limiting the reproduction of
dogs and cats than us – and yes, as a long-time shelter volunteer, I count
myself as one of those people. As long as dogs and cats in this country are
being euthanized in the hundreds of thousands a year, I will be an avid
advocate for limiting the ability of most pets to procreate.
(What about the adverse effects on the
health of the altered animals? So glad you asked: In the May issue, we have a
major feature looking at the scientific literature regarding the effects of
spay/neuter on dogs. Stand by!)
Dr. Levy’s plea to temporarily halt spay/neuter surgery
Dr. Levy is not alone in recommending that shelters and
rescues temporarily move forward with adoptions and placing animals in foster
homes without first performing
spay/neuter surgery; the recommendation is being shared by all the major
university shelter-medicine programs in North America: The University of
Wisconsin-Madison Shelter Medicine Program, University of Florida Maddie’s
Shelter Medicine Program, University of California- Davis Koret Shelter
Medicine Program, Cornell Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program, Humane Canada, The
Association for Advancement of Animal Welfare, Association of Shelter
Veterinarians, Ontario Shelter Medicine Association and the Association
Vétérinaire Québécoise de Médicine de Refuge.
The urgency of this unprecedented pandemic calls for radical action to protect human lives, and as a consequence of that, to protect animal lives. Of utmost importance is to support our healthcare system, which is close to the breaking point, via #SaferAtHome. It is no longer just about our animal welfare missions, but about those brave souls who are literally putting their lives and personal welfare on the line for us. The sacrifices we make in this moment will determine what larger sacrifices will be thrust upon us in the coming weeks and months. It is time to suspend routine spay-neuter.
This will help keep as many people as possible healthy and out of our community hospitals so that life-saving beds are available when needed. This will safeguard our staff so that when this crisis subsides, and it will, we have an intact work force of experts that can go back to work with renewed vigor and tackle the animal needs that we are all highly committed to…
Spay/neuter is a tool of lifesaving, but we are too creative and resourceful to believe we cannot overcome in other ways, kitten season notwithstanding. Pausing spay/neuter is a gut punch, and it will have consequences – kittens will be born, revenue will fall, staff may be furloughed – but these pale in comparison to the alternative.
A “gut punch” – that’s the perfect expression to describe
how I felt reading Dr. Levy’s post. Especially since I am currently helping a
friend with fostering a litter of 10 puppies for our local shelter – puppies
who are at the perfect age for getting placed in homes. The idea of sending
those pups away with people who may not manage to get them back to the shelter
(at some point in the future, god willing) in time to prevent them from
reproducing is anathema to me. And yet, do I want the veterinarian, registered
veterinary technicians, and other shelter staff members to risk their health
and that of their families in order to prevent this from happening? I do not.
What shelters are doing during this crisis
I’ve been watching the websites and Facebook pages of
shelters that I admire to see how they are dealing with the intake and adoption
of animals. Most shelters have closed their doors to the public at this time,
asking people to call the shelter to discuss surrenders, adoptions, or other
needs. The most organized shelters (and those who are best-supported by
volunteers in their communities) have sent most or all of their adoptable
animals out to foster homes. Most are in the process of setting up online “meet
and greet” sessions in support of potential adoptions, reserving the transfer
of animals for only the most pre-qualified, committed adopters. I’m trying to
help my shelter accomplish this, if only for these pups! (I have to admit to
feeling special urgency about puppies; I hate the idea of them spending the
most formative weeks of their lives seeing only my friend and me and our dogs;
for the best socialization experience they can have in these trying times, I’d
so prefer to get them into the hands of their adoptive families as soon as
possible.)
Tell me: What are shelters in your area doing with their
wards today? Are you helping in any way? If you don’t know what’s happening at
your local shelter and have a little time to spare to help, give them a call!
For the most part, the articles in WDJ contain information that you can go right out and put into practice – training tips, food-selection suggestions, product reviews, and practical things that you can do improve your dog’s health. While we do have a couple of those in this issue, we also seem to have collected a number of articles that (we hope) will provide you with food for thought, too.
The first article that falls into this latter category, “Howling in the Uncanny Valley”. The article sprang from an online conversation I had with its author, trainer Heather Houlahan, as we commiserated about how much we both hated the computer-generated imagery (CGI) used to wholly create the dog in the new movie The Call of the Wild. The human expressions the movie artists covered the otherwise winsome animated (but real-looking) dog’s face with absolutely gave me the shivers – and not the good kind. Heather and I both felt our skin crawling with revulsion when we saw the CGI dog’s weird gaits and human-looking eyes – yet we know other people who didn’t detect anything wrong with the depiction of the dog at all. When Heather asked me if I’d like her to write an essay expressing why she felt this sort of unreal, sort-of-real-looking dog’s appearance in a popular movie could actually do damage to the human-animal bond, I was more than happy to give her the assignment.
I had never before heard the expression “the uncanny valley” before I received Heather’s piece, and I found it fascinating to follow a number of online links from the Wikipedia.org page that defined the term. The observations made about the creepiness of human-like robots in those articles definitely rang true for me – but even more strongly to the CGI dog in The Call of the Wild than for human-like robots. I’ll be curious to hear what you think about all this.
Another eclectic piece in this issue that I was fascinated by: long-time contributor CJ Puotinen’s article about “conservation dogs” – dogs who are trained to find endangered animals (as well as the poachers who threaten them). The dogs are also used to sniff out invasive plants and animals that threaten native populations and habitats! I’m not exactly sure how many of you will go out and train your own dogs to do work like this – but if any of you want to, there are some stellar role models and organizations mentioned in the article that would provide guidance to do so.
I think it would be the coolest thing ever if one of our subscribers read about this work and was inspired to take it up with their dog. Please let us know if that person is you!
"Blacklegged ticks are also called deer ticks or bear ticks. The nymph form of the tick is really tiny. Two of the three ticks I have found on my own body recently were larger – and readily detected – dog ticks."
One minute, my husband and I were having a perfectly
ordinary conversation in the kitchen. In the next moment, I was ripping off my
sweatshirt, my T-shirt, and what I had on under that. No, my husband’s words
were not seductive and it wasn’t a hot flash. Can you guess?
“Ack! Tick! On my back! Get it! Get it! Get it!”
With all the restrictions on socializing, my only recreation
has been taking my dogs for walks – and three
times in the past week, I’ve suddenly felt the unmistakable sensation of something
crawling on my body where nothing ought to be crawling. The one that made me
rip off my clothes in the kitchen was the third
one!
That creepy sensation
The first one woke me out of a dead sleep. I had fallen
asleep on the couch while watching a late-night movie, and woke up thrashing –
a tick was walking across my wrist! Somehow I came wide-awake immediately and
managed to precisely grab the insect – a big dog tick – between my fingers.
Nothing, and I mean nothing, has ever
awakened me so quickly, zero to 60, as fast as that feeling.
The second one was while we were walking on a trail. I felt
what I thought was maybe a mosquito on my neck. But when a wave of my hand
didn’t stop the feeling of something tiny touching me, my fingers explored and
I felt the insect crawling along my hairline. I flung it away from me and
immediately regretted the action; it would live another day! Darn it! I could
have killed it!
The only solace I have regarding the current infestation,
typical for this season in this area, is that I haven’t (yet) discovered a tick
that had already embedded itself on my body somewhere. I have pulled a couple
off of Otto – who is a tick magnet –
and just this morning, removed a teeny
deer tick, smaller than the head of a pin, from Woody’s eyelid, where it was
almost invisible among his eyelashes (he kept rubbing his eye, which made me
investigate further). But so far, my sensitivity to the crawling sensation has
kept me safe from a bite.
I’m struggling as I write this to keep myself from
investigating an imagined crawling
sensation every few minutes. I don’t have a tick on me now – at least, I am
pretty sure I don’t – but after every discovery of one of the creepy insects, I
suffer from lingering paranoia for days. Ugh, I despise them!
I have been flea-combing the dogs assiduously after our
walks, and yet, somehow, ticks are getting brought home and into the house –
and onto the sofa and onto me! This is making me wish for some sort of
pressurized airlock that the whole family (canine and human) has to pass
through in order to get into the house, something powerful enough to blow all
loose particles off of us and into a flame chamber. If you’re an engineer, you
can patent that puppy for free! Just send me a unit when it goes to market,
will you?
What do you do that works best for protecting your family
(canine and human) from ticks?
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
