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Dog Impulse Control Training

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dog impulse control
Once they have learned a cue for "wait" (in the context of waiting to be released to eat their food), most dogs are able to easily generalize the behavior to different situations, such as waiting to go out a door, waiting to jump out of a car, and so on.

The behavior has several different names (inhibitory self-control, emotional self-control, self-regulation), but the term “impulse control” is used frequently in dog training. It means that dogs can resist the temptation to perform an unwanted behavior that would give them access to a desired reinforcer – that is, they can control themselves. 

Puppies aren’t born with impulse control (nor are children); it has to be learned – and it can be encouraged and deliberately taught! Teaching your dog to develop his impulse control is a valuable use of your time because, as dogs learn to control their behavior, we can relax and enjoy their company without feeling like we always have to control them.

Generally, humans don’t consider a dog to have a problem with self-control unless his impulses drive him to exhibit behaviors we don’t care for. It’s when dogs do things like help themselves to food on the coffee table or kitchen counter (counter surfing), jump up on people when greeting, dart out doors before invited to do so, or grab things from the hands of their humans that dogs tend to be labeled as lacking in impulse control. From the canine perspective, however, a dog who does these things is just helping himself to something he wants: food, contact with humans, freedom, or a desired toy or other item. 

Fortunately, with relative ease, most dogs can learn to resist the impulse to help themselves to these things – practicing delayed gratification or accepting an alternative reward – when their humans implement several impulse-control behaviors already frequently taught in the force-free training world, including Wait, Leave-It, Polite Greeting, Mat, On-Off Switch, and more. 

WAIT

As much as we force-free trainers love teaching dogs to do stuff, I will admit that “Wait” is one of the most useful behaviors I teach my dogs, as well as my favorite impulse control exercise. Unlike a formal “Stay” cue, which means “Stay in the exact position you are in and don’t move until I tell you to,” I use “Wait” more informally to mean “Pause.” 

We teach “Wait” using a food bowl. This gives you one or two built-in training sessions every day (depending on how often you feed your dog) – no excuses! “Wait” can then be easily generalized to waiting at doors, or any other situation where you want your dog to be able to control herself (i.e., not rushing forward to greet the senior citizen with the walker, or not grabbing the hotdog out of the toddler’s hand). Here’s how to teach it:

1.  Have your dog sit and tell her “Wait!” Put a mixture of some of your dog’s regular food and some high-value treats into her food bowl. You can use her regular food as a treat if she’s highly food-motivated, but to make a greater impression, use the higher-value treats for reinforcment. 

Hold the bowl at shoulder level (off to the side so you’re not lowering it directly under her nose), and before she can (or does) move, mark her “pause” with the “click!” of a clicker or a verbal marker such as the word “Yes!” Then take a treat out of the bowl and feed it to her. 

If she gets up before you click, tell her “Oops, sit!” and try again. 

If she gets up after you click and treat, just ask her to sit again before the next repetition. Repeat several times, telling her “Wait” each time.

2. With the bowl at shoulder level, tell her “Wait,” and lower the bowl a few inches. Mark (with a click or “Yes!”) if she’s still sitting, and quickly raise the bowl back up; then take a treat out of the bowl and feed it to her.

If she gets up when you lower the bowl, try again, and lower it only a fraction of an inch. 

3. Gradually lower the bowl a bit more, still starting at shoulder level, telling her “Wait” each time, with several successful repetitions at each new position before going lower. If you get two “Oops!” in a row, you’ve gone too quickly; back up to where she can succeed and proceed more slowly with your bowl-lowering.

4. When you get the bowl all the way to the floor, set it down, click, and pick it back up before giving your dog the treat. Repeat several times, telling her “Wait” each time. (Be ready to raise the bowl quickly if she tries to go for it!)

5. Next, when you get the bowl to the floor, click, but leave the bowl on the floor while you feed her the treat. Repeat several times, telling her “Wait” each time. 

6. Finally, tell her “Wait,” set the bowl on the floor, click and treat, and tell her, “Okay, you can have it!”

Dogs who naturally have better self-control may “get it” in one session. Those who are more challenged by their impulses may need to practice over a period of several days or more before you get the bowl to the floor. At each mealtime practice session, work as long as practical for you and your dog, then just go ahead and set the bowl on the floor with an “Okay you can have it!” 

Eventually you’ll be able to ask her to wait while you put the bowl on the floor, and you won’t have to mark and treat, just release her; her meal is the reward.

LEAVE IT

You need to wear shoes for this exercise! To teach your dog “Leave it”, show your dog that you have a yummy treat, and let her see you put it under your shoe. Say “Leave it” in a cheery voice; it’s a cue, not a threat or a warning! Wait while she tries to lick or paw the treat free.

I use “Trade” when a dog already has something that I want in her mouth.  (See “Protocol for Teaching a Safe ‘Trade’ With Your Dog,” May 2020, for information about how to teach your dog to happily give you something he has that you want.) But I teach “Leave It” for the random object on the ground that my dog covets – and that I don’t want her to grab.  Here’s how:

1. Show your dog that you have a high-value “forbidden object” in your hand – something you’re going to tell her she can’t have. I use freeze-dried liver cubes for this – they are high-value and durable. Let her sniff it, lick it, even nibble at it, but don’t let her have it.

2. Say “Leave It!” as you hold up the cube, then immediately place it on the floor under your foot, to protect it. (Note: Wear sturdy shoes. Do not do this barefooted, with open sandals, or in your nicest shoes!)

3. Let your dog sniff, lick, nibble, and chew in an effort to reach the treat under your foot. She might even paw at your shoe (hence, the no-sandals or bare feet suggestion). If her tongue can reach the cube under your shoe, tip your toe forward so she can’t lick it. 

Just wait; she will eventually give up. The instant she stops sniffing, licking, or looks away from the treat, mark (click or “Yes!”) and give her a tasty treat. As she gains fluency at this behavior, you may be able to move your foot away and still have her “leave it”.

4. Wait. Don’t repeat the cue; she will eventually give up. The instant she stops sniffing, licking, etc., or looks away, even by accident, mark (click your clicker or use a verbal maker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give her a tasty treat. She’ll probably immediately return her attention to the forbidden object under your foot, so just wait some more. Don’t repeat the cue. When she looks away again, mark and treat again. 

5. If possible, mark-and-treat again before her nose returns to your foot. You want to reinforce “Look-away, look-away, look-away, keep-looking-away” not “look at foot-look away, look at foot-look away.” 

6. After several repetitions, pick the cube up, show it to her again, repeat the “Leave It” cue, and place it under your foot again.

7. When she looks away from the cube easily, move your foot slightly to uncover the treat and give repeated mark-and-treats as long as her nose doesn’t return to the treat. She gets rewarded for staying away from the cube even when it’s visible and seemingly accessible. Keep your foot close! If your dog dives for the food, just re-cover it with your toe to prevent her from getting it. Mark/treat again when she looks away. 

8. If your dog completely ignores the forbidden object on the ground, try tapping your toe next to it to draw her attention back – but be ready to cover it up quickly! Remember, she doesn’t have to look back at the cube and then look away – you want continuous “look-away” behavior.

9. Eventually you’ll see your dog’s “Aha!” moment – that golden moment in training when you see your dog really understands. With Leave It, that moment happens when she looks at the exposed treat, considers it for a moment, then looks up at you in anticipation of the mark and treat. Celebrate! 

10. Next, place the forbidden object on the floor without covering it with your foot (be ready to protect with your foot!). Repeat numerous times until you can place it in plain view on the floor and she doesn’t try to get it. 

Now you can generalize Leave It to more real-life situations. (For help with generalizing the behavior, see “How to Teach a Dog to ‘Leave It’” June 2018.)

POLITE GREETING

This is an important impulse-control behavior in any dog’s repertoire. It requires that you not reinforce her for jumping up – and that you prevent the rest of the world from reinforcing her as well! – while you reinforce her generously for an incompatible behavior such as Sit. You can simply turn your back and step away when she jumps up if she’s roaming free (or step into another room and close the door) – and you can use a leash or tether for more concentrated practice.

A tether was essential for teaching this little dog to stop jumping on kids; he had a long history of being reinforced for jumping up on kids (and licking and biting them). Once he was prevented from reaching the kid, he was able to learn to sit when he wanted to greet a child.

1. With your dog tethered to a solid object, approach slowly and calmly, wait for her to sit, then mark (with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker such as the word “Yes!”) and feed her a treat. If she jumps up, just step back out of her reach. Note we didn’t tell you to say “Sit.” We want her to think of and offer that behavior on her own, not be waiting for a cue. Use body language (such as leaning back and/or lifting your hands to your chest) to help her sit if necessary (quickly fade the use of this body language). Just don’t use your regular cue for Sit!

2. As she starts offering sits consistently when you approach (and you consistently reinforce these), gradually increase the energy of your approach until you can greet her with excitement, and she still sits and stays sitting until you release her.

3. Now generalize the behavior to the rest of the world. With your dog on leash, have another person approach her. Instruct them to approach calmly and tell them to step back if she jumps up. When she sits politely at their approach, mark and treat her for sitting. They can then greet and pet her but remind them to move back if she gets up.

Eventually, if you want, you can have the people approaching feed her a treat – providing they understand they must move away if she gets up.

MAT

Place the treats you use to reinforce any on-the-mat-behaviors on the mat. This will help your dog understand that being on the mat is a rewarding place to be! Use the higher-value treats every time she happens to lie down; she will likely start offering downs more frequently – excellent!

The introduction of the “place mat” is a brilliant addition to the force-free training repertoire. The place mat is a portable rug, bed, or blanket that you teach your dog to lie down and settle on. The more comfortable the mat, the easier the training. 

When your dog learns to park herself on her mat you have an incredibly useful tool to help with impulse control at home as well as in new environments or those with guaranteed arousal-causing distractions. Here’s how to train the behavior:

1. Hold your dog’s mat and show great interest in it: Examine it, talk about it, sniff it, and so on, until your dog shows interest in what you are doing.

2. Place the mat on the floor. Have a supply of medium- and high-value treats. When your dog looks at, sniffs, or shows any interest in the mat, mark and place a medium-value treat on the mat for your dog to take.

3. Continue to mark for any mat-related behaviors (except for grabbing it and playing with it!), placing a medium-value treat on the mat each time you mark. 

4. Any on-the-mat-behaviors (OTMBs) deserve a mark-and-treat, but if she offers a down, she gets a high-value treat. Other offered OTMBs still get medium-value treats. Continue to mark any OTMBs, but occasionally cue her to “Down” on the mat. When she does, mark and give her a high-value treat.

5. After you have cued, marked, and treated a half-dozen random downs interspersed with her other behaviors, pause for several seconds and see if she chooses to offer you a down when she doesn’t get marked for other behaviors. If she does, mark and feed her several high-value treats. If she doesn’t, go back to marking any OTMBs, interspersing cued downs. Again, deliver high-value treats for downs and medium-value treats for other behaviors.

6. Repeat step 5 until your dog begins offering downs during your pauses. Your dog is learning that downs get better rewards. She should soon begin offering only downs on the mat, even though other behaviors will still get medium rewards.

7. Now give your dog a release cue, move a few steps away from the mat and invite her to follow you. When she does, stand quietly and ignore her – no marks, treats, or praise. Most dogs will return to the mat to prompt you for more treats. (If she doesn’t, go back to Step 5.) If she does, start marking and treating again, using medium-value treats for any behavior, high-value treats for downs. You are reinforcing her for returning to the mat. Downs are great if they happen, but remember to reward any OTMBs. Gradually increase your distance from the mat.

8. When she consistently/quickly returns and lies down on the mat each time you move away, increase time in small increments – a few seconds at a time. If she gets off the mat before you release her, pick up the mat, ignore her for a minute, place the mat down and try again. 

9. When your dog will go to her mat and lie quietly on it for an extended period of time, you can add your cue – “Mat,” “Place” – or whatever you want to call it. Practice sending her to her mat from increasing distances and eventually from anywhere in the house.

10. Finally, add distractions and generalize the behavior. Start with kindergarten-level distractions – jump once, jump twice, clap your hands … gradually work up to college level – kids running through the house, dropping food on the floor … and eventually PhD work – doorbell ringing, visitors entering, and anything else that might challenge your dog’s self-control. When she’s good with distractions in the home – take it on the road; generalize it to the rest of the world!

ON/OFF SWITCH

Sometimes your dog will just get excited by some stimulus. Many dogs get super amped when the leash comes out because it is such a reliable predictor that “good stuff is about to happen!” Asking them to calm down can be counterproductive – you’re paying attention to them (reinforcing!) as they leap about, and they just get more excited as you interact with them. I use “Oops!” as a “no reward marker,” meaning “That behavior doesn’t get reinforced – in fact that behavior makes the good stuff go away …” and then I take away the opportunity for reinforcement. 

If I have the leash in my hand when my dog starts to leap with excitement, I say, “Oops!” and lay the leash on the table, then go sit down. If I was holding a toy, I’d say, “Oops!” and hide it behind my back or turn away. If I was opening the door, I’d say, “Oops!” and walk away. 

When your dog can remain calm as you pick up the leash, hold up the toy, or open the door, she has learned impulse control – she can control her excitement in order to make the good stuff happen.

Note: I prefer “Oops” to the “eh-eh” that some trainers use, as it’s really hard to say “Oops” in an aversive tone of voice, while “eh-eh” can end up sounding quite nasty. The intent is simply to give information in a neutral or cheerful tone – “That behavior made the good thing go away” – not to be angry or intimidating to the dog.

Your goal? To help your canine companion learn to control her own behavior so you can live harmoniously together in a relationship of mutual love, trust, and respect, knowing your dog will choose to do the right thing even when temptation looms, and knowing you don’t have to be the behavior police. 

Dog Poop Bags Review

biodegradable dog poop bags
We tested five compostable plant-based (non-plastic) pet waste pick-up bags, and a compostable paper sheet that can be used in place of a bag. These are great, earth-friendlier alternatives to using plastic bags for picking up dog poop.

As the saying goes, “Sh*t happens,” and as every responsible dog owner knows, cleaning up after their dogs is an absolute must. For those of us who try to be good stewards of the environment, biodegradable poop bags seem like a smart choice. Who wants to think of their dog’s poop festering away in a traditional polymer bag designed to survive a zombie apocalypse?

Unfortunately, the term “biodegradable” isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. When it comes to dog waste bags, Kermit the Frog was right: It’s not easy being green.

“Biodegradable” means “being of a substance or object capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms.” The definition offers no parameters as to how long it will take to achieve decomposition. Will a traditional polymer bag eventually degrade? Sure. But ecologists estimate it takes about 10 to 20 years in the environment and 1,000 years in a landfill. 

“Landfills are built to exclude air, light, and water, so things that are in there will be there for a lifetime,” says Bob Borrows, a waste-policy analyst with the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality. Another problem? When traditional plastic bags degrade, they leave behind microplastics that contaminate the environment.

COMPOSTABLE DOG POOP BAGS

At this juncture, our recommended course of action is to buy compostable poop bags. “Compostable” is defined as being made of “organic matter able to be made into compost.” Today, many eco-minded manufacturers of pet waste bags offer a product line of compostable bags. 

Compostable waste bags are provided to users at the Great Bark Dog Park in Lafayette, Colorado, and the waste collected at the park is being composted in a collaboration between the Lafayette Parks, Recreation & Open Space Department and the Lafayette Waste Reduction Committee

Most compostable pet waste bags are considered bioplastics; they look, feel and perform like plastic, but are typically made from renewable resources such as plant starch and are designed to breakdown via microbial activity. In a commercial composting facility, this can take about 90 days. If the bag is rated for home composting, the process can take 180 to 360 days, depending on climate and condition of the composting environment. 

Further, we recommend looking for compostable bags that are ASTM D600 certified. ASTM is a voluntary standards organization, and D6400 certification ensures the product will successfully degrade in a way that will not negatively diminish the value or utility of the resulting compost. 

That’s great news! But there’s some bad news: These plant-based bags are more expensive to produce than conventional plastic bags; your cost for fewer bags may be twice what you’d pay for plastic.

Moreover, while plant-based bags and poop are compostable, few commercial composting facilities in the United States accept pet waste – so you can’t just toss that bag of poo into the green yard trimmings bin with alacrity. And, while it’s not impossible, creating the ideal recipe for a high-temperature compost (needed to kill pathogens) at home can be challenging. 

So why opt for the added expense and effort to source plant-based bags if they’re still likely to linger in a landfill?

Companies making the effort to produce waste bags that conform to compostability standards are, in general, striving to be earth-friendly in all facets of business. Using sustainable raw materials in a plant-based waste bag is still more eco-conscious than producing traditional polymer bags. Plus, it’s another small step we can all take to reduce our dependence on products made from fossil fuels. 

OUR TOP PICKS FOR PLANT-BASED DOG WASTE BAGS

We selected five popular brands of plant-based dog waste bags that conformed to the ASTM D6400 standard. That standard looks at product compostability, including whether or not the degradation of the material may diminish the value or utility of the resulting compost. 

Of the five brands, two (Doggy Do Good and Give A Sh!t) are also certified by TUV Austria (a European standards organization) for home composting.

Worth noting: It’s recommended that vegetable-based bags be kept in a cool, dry area and be used within a year of purchase.

All five brands feel durable. None of the bags tore improperly from the roll, all five were easy to open, and all withstood a reasonable amount of stretching and tugging. 

In looking at our third-place bags, these products received a lower rating only because they failed to survive a pocketed trip through the washer and drier (a common occurrence for most dog owners!). 

Also, in the case of the BioBag product, we marked it down for being substantially smaller, making it more difficult to flip the bag inside out to encase the mess without feeling like the mess was dangerously close to your hand. If you obsessively check your pockets on laundry day, or pick up after a small dog, these minor issues may not affect you. 

RECOMMENDED COMPOSTABLE PET WASTE BAGS

WDJ RatingProduct Name & MakerPrice SizeComments
4 out of 4 PawsDoggy Do Good Premium Pet Waste Bags
doggydogood.com
$9.99 for 6 rolls of 10 bags on Amazon13.4” x 7” Folded; 13.4” x 11” with gussets expanded

20 microns thick
Unscented. ASTM D6400 Certified. These bags can handle a big load! Core made from recycled material. We like that they’re also available as handle bags on a roll and a dispenser box. Large enough to accommodate litter box cleaning and diaper disposal. Company donates to six different animal welfare organizations on a quarterly basis. Survived the laundry test!
4 out of 4 PawsLucky Dog PoopBags
luckydogpoopbags.com
$6.99 for 4 rolls of 15 bags on Amazon13” x 9”

17 microns thick
Unscented. Plenty big enough to “glove up” and handle the job. From an environmental standpoint, we like that Lucky Dog rolls don’t have a core, however, that does mean rolls won’t work as well in most traditional rolled-bag dispensers. We appreciate the detailed explanation of conditions needed for biodegradation. Company donates 1% of profits to environmental causes. Survived the laundry test! The lighter color does little to disguise the contents, and we wish the bags were also available as a boxed bulk roll.
3 out of 4 PawsGive a Sh*t Poop Bags
giveasht.com
$12.99 for 8 rolls of 15 bags on Amazon12.5” x 9”

18 microns thick
Unscented. Nice large size. Packaging and core made from recycled material. We like that the company offers a plastic-free dispenser made of canvas that also has room for keys and treats. Bonus points for the punny company name and cute line drawings of dogs on the bags. Company donates 10% of profits to animal protection charities. Survived the laundry test! We do wish the bags were also available as a boxed bulk roll.
2.5 out of 4 PawsEarth Rated Compostable Poop Bags
earthrated.com
$8 for 6 rolls of 10 bags on Amazon13” x 9”

20 microns thick
Available in unscented and lavender scented. Large size. Packaging and core made from recycled materials. Company makes both certified compostable bags and bags made from polyethylene with an additive said to accelerate degradation in a landfill environment “when the bag is exposed to anaerobic landfill conditions (heat, oxygen, agitation and moisture).” We find this claim confusing since, by definition, “anaerobic” means “without oxygen.” The Earth Rated poop bag did not survive the laundry test; it melted onto itself while pocketed in the drier, rendering it unusable.
2.5 out of 4 PawsBio Bag Pet Waste Bags
biobagpet.com
$4.99 for 50 bags on Amazon11.5” x 8”

23 microns thick
Unscented. The smallest of all the bags we tried. Company website says product is also available in a larger size, but it was difficult to find and considerably more expensive on Amazon. Most readily available as a 50-bag perforated-top flat pack. We appreciate that the company notes the bags are designed to be composted in a municipal/industrial facility and acknowledges that such a facility may not exist in the purchaser’s area. Packaging also refers users to findacomposter.com, to aid in the search for an appropriate facility. The Bio Bag did not survive the laundry test; it melted into itself while pocketed in the drier, rendering it useless.
Leaders In Canine Compost Capability

While traditional composting facilities in the United States aren’t jumping at the chance to add pet waste to their roster of acceptable feed streams, a handful of forward-thinking entrepreneurs and citizens’ groups are successfully implementing pet-waste composting programs to help reduce the carbon footprint of man’s best friend. 

EnviroWagg in Aurora, Colorado, built an entire business out of composting dog feces, compostable bags and all, by partnering with a local residential dog-waste cleanup service and several area dog parks. The composted waste becomes Doggone Good Potting Soil, available online and in select Colorado retail locations. Owner Rose Seemann even wrote a related book, The Pet Poo Pocket Guide: How to Safely Compost and Recycle Pet Waste.

Similarly, a handful of dog parks and open space areas throughout the United States have started composting programs, including Marsha P. Johnson State Park (formerly East River State Park) in Brooklyn. Dog-owning park guests contribute to the enclosed pile using available scoopers or rapidly degradable paper waste bags. Sawdust is added to create the proper carbon-to-nitrogen ratio, and the compost pile is carefully attended to and monitored by park staff. The resulting fertilizer is used only on ornamental plants and flowers throughout the park, and, as an added precaution, away from children’s playground areas. 

Canadians are even more ahead of the game, with some areas allowing pet waste contained in certified compostable bags in green bins meant for yard trimmings, and many professional poop-scooping services, such as Turd Wranglers of Chilliwick, BC, offer both scooping services and a stand-alone waste removal service for owners happy to scoop or bag-up pet waste themselves, but who wish to keep the “doody deeds” out of the landfill by paying to have the waste delivered to an appropriate facility.

Get on the Paper Train: Pooch Paper

Ready to ditch pet waste bags all together? Enter Pooch Paper, a large sheet of recycled, non-chlorine-bleached, coated paper – sort of like wax paper. It’s strong enough to grab our test dog’s considerable-sized pile, but it required a little more focus to entrap the mess within the paper, which doesn’t conform to your hand as well as a pet waste bag. It was easier to use on dirt and very short grass. I struggled to grasp a mess in plush grass when individual “poo nuggets” separated from the pile and sank into the grass.  It’s a bit like the dexterity one has wearing a glove versus wearing a mitten.  Even though waste bags cover the hand like a mitten, they still allow for a trickier clean up. I’d trust Pooch Paper to a somewhat soft pile of poo, but anything resembling diarrhea would be a no-go.

Once the mess is contained in the paper, you just twist up the edges and carry it by the top of the bundle until you find an appropriate receptacle. With a twist of the wrist (versus a knot) being all that keeps the mess contained, I wouldn’t want to travel too far before pitching the poo. 

Pooch Paper comes in a box of individually folded sheets. It would take some care to stash a few sheets in a pocket or the zippered “Pooch Pouch” leash attachment (sold separately). I’m not sold on Pooch Paper for a long outing with the potential for multiple poops along the way – but this could be a great alternative to bags for apartment dwelling dog owners on quick “potty runs” throughout the day. Pooch Paper’s main benefit? It’s really, truly, fully biodegradable and compostable. $13 for 50 small (12″ x12″) sheets or $13.50 for 50 large sheets (14″ x 14″) at poochpaper.com. 

This got us thinking: If your pet’s pile can be easily contained in a 12″ sheet of paper, why not use unbleached compostable parchment paper, which can be torn to whatever length you desire? This could be a viable option for owners of small dogs with smaller “piles,” and, at just $3.50 for 45′, is very economical!

Dog Throwing Up Yellow? What You Should Know About ‘Bilious Vomiting Syndrome’

1
dog throwing up yellow bile
If your dog frequently vomits a yellowish liquid, particularly in the morning, he (and your rugs) would benefit from a series of interventions to help resolve this uncomfortable condition. Photo Credit: Keechuan/ Dreamstime.com

Some dogs are prone to vomiting either first thing in the morning or in the wee hours of the night. It’s usually just a small amount of vomit, typically yellowish in color and somewhat frothy or foamy. And it’s more common in younger dogs.

I’ve always called it empty-stomach bile vomiting. The medically correct name for it is “bilious vomiting syndrome.” The word “bilious” comes from the Latin billis (bile) and ous (having or full of). Bile is a fluid that is produced by the liver and secreted into the upper part of the small intestine, where it aids digestion. Sometimes, however, bile backs up into the stomach, inflaming the stomach lining.

This all sounds terrible, but to be honest, the worst thing about the term bilious vomiting syndrome is the word syndrome. When medical professionals use the word syndrome, it generally means we have no idea what causes it. If we know what causes a problem, it’s a lot easier to prevent and treat.

Theoretical Causes of Your Dog Puking Yellow Bile

The certain cause of bilious vomiting syndrome is unknown, but veterinary medical science has some theories. The most widely accepted theory is that a combination of decreased stomach motility and a weak sphincter muscle between the stomach and small intestine allows bile from the small intestine to essentially backwash into the stomach and sit there. Bile is supposed to be in the small intestine, and it causes no problems there. It is not supposed to be in the stomach. When it is, it’s very irritating to the stomach lining, resulting in vomiting.

Other Causes of Your Dog Throwing Up Yellow

But because vomiting is a symptom associated with many other conditions, it is important to rule out any underlying diseases before attributing it to bilious vomiting syndrome. 

The list of differentials for chronic vomiting is long. We’ll mention a few here, but this list is not meant to be all-inclusive:

  • Addison’s disease (underactive adrenal glands) 
  • Cancer 
  • Food allergy
  • Gastric foreign bodies
  • Gastritis/ulcers (can be secondary to things like nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs [NSAIDs], stress, mast cell cancer)
  • Helicobacter (bacteria thought to cause chronic vomiting)
  • Hiatal hernia (stomach sneaks up into the chest)
  • Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
  • Intestinal parasites
  • Pancreatitis
  • Physalopterosis (a stomach worm dogs can get from eating crickets, especially in the Midwest)
  • Slow-moving intestinal foreign bodies

The medical workup to rule out underlying issues like these starts with a physical exam. Helpful blood tests might include blood chemistry, complete blood count, baseline cortisol (for Addison’s disease), canine pancreatic lipase (CPL, for pancreatitis), and, to rule out IBD and other gastrointestinal (GI) issues, a fasted blood panel (comprised of cobalamin, folate, trypsin-like immunoreactivity [TLI], and pancreatic lipase immunoreactivity [PLI]). 

Other tests that may be needed to solve mysterious, chronic vomiting include fecal exam, chest/abdomen x-rays, abdominal ultrasound, endoscopy, and biopsy. Obviously, your dog may not need all these tests, depending on preliminary test results.

To rule out food allergy, a diet trial with a hydrolyzed protein diet is usually recommended. (Fortunately, a diet trial for food allergy that causes GI upset requires only 10 to 14 days; in contrast, diet trials for skin allergies must be done for a grueling eight to 12 weeks.)

Physaloptera, the stomach worm, is usually not found on a routine fecal test for parasites. If your veterinarian thinks this is at all a possibility, empiric treatment may be recommended. (Endoscopy is usually necessary to find this worm, which is a pretty aggressive, invasive test for a condition that is not that high on the list.) 

Similarly, an infection with the  Helicobacter pylori bacteria can be hard to diagnose. Empiric treatment may or may not be recommended by your veterinarian, depending on level of suspicion.

Treatment of Bilious Vomiting Syndrome

dog getting treat
Most dogs will appreciate the addition of a bedtime snack to their diet. If your dog is overweight, however; don’t add calories; reserve a small portion of his evening meal and feed it at bedtime.
Photo Credits: Sanja Grujic/ Dreamstime.com

Once it’s been determined that your dog likely suffers from bilious vomiting syndrome, it’s time to try to make it better. I recommend changing one thing at a time, in case that one simple step will resolve the issue. If one step alone doesn’t resolve it, continue and add the next step. The solution might involve a combination of all the steps.

Step 1: Feed a small meal at bedtime. For small dogs, just a biscuit at bedtime might suffice. The idea is that food in the stomach increases gastric motility and will buffer any bile that sneaks in. If that doesn’t work, add Step 2.

Step 2: Divide the dog’s daily food allotment into multiple small meals throughout the day. The idea is to stimulate the stomach into continuous motility, thus preventing bile from seeping backward into the stomach. If those two things don’t work, add Step 3.

Step 3: Add an acid-reducer like omeprazole (Prilosec). Omeprazole is usually dosed twice a day, but after the first week you can give just one dose at bedtime. Sometimes you can even get to every other night dosing with omeprazole. Famotidine (Pepcid) can also be tried (and it kicks in faster than omeprazole), but tolerance to famotidine develops over time, making it less effective in chronic situations like this.

Step 4: If those three things don’t work, I usually add a “prokinetic” medication (which increases gastric motility). Metoclopramide (Reglan), cisapride, or low-dose erythromycin are medications your veterinarian may prescribe. When prescribed for other issues, metoclopramide is typically dosed three times a day. For bilious vomiting syndrome, usually just one dose at bedtime is all that is needed.

If those four things don’t work, add Step5.

Step 5: Ask your veterinarian about adding a gastroprotectant (which may make the stomach less sensitive to the bile irritation). Sucralfate (Carafate) is usually prescribed for this.

The good news: Bilious vomiting syndrome is considered a benign condition. It must be uncomfortable for your dog, however, and cleaning up vomit every day certainly isn’t fun for you. We hope these tips will help you eliminate this unpleasant, chronic condition. 

Treasuring The Time I Have With My Older Dog Otto

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When I take longer or harder hikes now, I have to leave my senior dog, Otto, at home. It’s for his own good; he just gets too sore on the day after – or even later that day – following the longer walks that my younger dog and his even younger friends need to tire them out. Knowing that I’m preventing him from getting too sore to get up easily doesn’t make it any easier for me, though: As soon as Otto sees the signs that a walk is impending (leashes gathered, treat bag getting filled, sneakers getting put on) he will station himself in front of the door. If he’s outside, he will stand behind my car, with a determined “I’m coming with you!” look on his face. And he knows the difference between me getting ready to go for a walk and me getting ready to go grocery shopping; he doesn’t stand in the way of my departure for the store!

Otto is still very capable of joining me and my friends for a walk of a mile or two in cool weather. This last interminable, hot, dry summer was hard on him, as he doesn’t tolerate the heat well; I’d take him only for very short walks where there was water available for wading and swimming.

The catch-22: He needs to keep moving to stay fit; he just can’t go as far or as fast as the younger dogs. So I’ve taken to taking him for his own walks, just him and me. And I have to say that it’s a delight.

The places where I usually walk with my dogs are all off-leash areas. I almost never see anyone else on my local trails, and when I do, I can easily call my dogs to me and leash them for the minute or two it will take to pass by whomever else might be out there. So I don’t often have to walk my dogs on leash, but for Otto’s safety, when we walk around our own rural neighborhood, he has to be on leash – especially because he can no longer hear oncoming cars well, or me calling him back to me. But around here, as we walk alongside our country roads, walking Otto on leash is a pure pleasure; he’s got amazing on-leash skills.

When I adopted Otto, way back in the summer of 2008, I hadn’t yet discovered the wonderful off-leash areas and trails that I drive to for most of my longer walks; I mostly walked Otto in and around my small town. And I’m not bragging, but we walked so much that first summer (as I was trying to get him tired enough to not stay awake all night barking at the stars), that we really perfected Otto’s polite leash-walking skills. He doesn’t pull and he doesn’t lag. He might walk a little bit ahead of me – but so what? I don’t need him to stay right at my side, and I don’t mind if he wants to stop and sniff something every so often. His hearing has gotten very bad, but his vision is still very good, and he often spots a squirrel going up a tree or a stray cat crossing the road ahead of us before I do. He’ll raise his tail and prick his ears, and then look back at me with shining eyes: “Mom, did you see that?” Though he “checks in” with me occasionally when we are on an off-leash walk with other dogs, when it’s him and me, connected by a leash, he stays much more tuned into me, communicating more with me about what he’s seeing and smelling.

It’s a hassle to find the time to take two walks on our dog-walking days, and to make extra food-stuffed Kongs to bribe Otto into not looking sad when I’m loading up Woody for the drive to one of our off-leash trails for a long walk, but the extra time alone with Otto is sweet – and absolutely worth it. 

5 Tips for Group Dog Obedience Training

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group dog obedience training
The first session of any group training class can be overwhelming (for pups and people) - and may have you feeling like a total failure afterward. If you stick with it and put our tips into practice, we guarantee you will be impressed with how much better you feel about yourself and your dog by the last class.

Those of you who have just emerged from your first-ever group dog obedience training class have my sympathies. For the unprepared, that experience can be a rude awakening. 

Whether your pup is pulling wildly toward the other dogs, acting like she’s never met you, barking while the instructor talks, or hiding under your chair, the first class may feel like a nightmare. In fact, you may be tempted to tell people this is actually your neighbor’s dog and you’re just pitching in. 

After that kind of introduction, many dog owners listen to the little voice in their head whispering, “Let’s just forget we paid for all six lessons and call it a day.” That’s a shame, because when humans stick with it, they often walk out of Class #6 stunned at the turnaround they’ve experienced. 

To help make sure you get to that magic day, the best programs have a surprising rule for Class #1: No Dogs Allowed. During that key first hour, blissfully free of doggy distractions, the instructors set up the humans for success. They set appropriate expectations and give some make-or-break tips on how to manage your dog during class.  

If your upcoming class doesn’t offer that dog-free first class, make yourself a nice cup of tea, sit down in your quiet kitchen, and absorb these five survival tips before you head into the joyful chaos that is Doggy 101.

1. Bring your sense of humor and reasonable expectations.

Sometimes the secret to life is low expectations, and that is dramatically true here. Assume the first class or two will feel ridiculously hard. Be thrilled if anything goes right! Getting your head in this generous space is key, because the more stress you bring into that training area, the more your dog will feel it. Take a deep breath, and don’t lose your sense of humor. 

Keep in mind that this is not a competition. If your dog is the most disruptive in the class, don’t shrink in embarrassment. Instead, find the warmest fellow student so you can share a smile about it. Then remember that this means you have the greatest potential for the most improved award after six weeks! 

Bring a pouch full if “canine trail mix” – an ample supply of a variety of top-tier treats, pre-cut into tiny pieces. You don’t want to run out before class is over! If you have too many, put the pouch in your fridge overnight and use the rest the next day!

2. Use amazing dog treats.

Know this: The same dog who sits and stays beautifully for you in your kitchen will act as if he does not even hear you in class. With the explosion of distractions – a different space, other dogs, and new people – you’re going to need help drawing your dog’s attention back to you. Put serious thought and prep into surprising your new student with fabulous dog treats in class, linking the first training experience with this giant positive. Think dried fish, liver, cheddar cheese, fresh chicken. 

Also: Bring more food than you think you’ll need. First-time students always run out! You’ll be asking your dog for many behaviors in this hour, and you need to be ready to reward. You’ll be using tiny pieces (the size of a pea), but it adds up. This all means you need an official treat pouch. That Baggie in your pocket is going to be way too clumsy to work with. 

(Oh, and yes: This talk about food reveals that I assume you have followed both the very strong science and your good heart, and have sought out a trainer who is committed to positive reinforcement.)

3. Start in the parking lot.

You’re going to drive up to class with a treat pouch packed with terrific treats and ready to go. The next little secret is to let your dog or pup in on this news the minute you get out of the car. Wave that tiny piece of ham past his nose and ask for a quick moment of attention – and reward it when it happens. Your newly focused-on-you pup thinks, “Wow! What is happening?!” 

As you continue to walk in, ask for any behaviors that are solid at home – perhaps sit, or shake, or a look in response to his name. As your pup revels in his sudden ability to snag some previously unheard-of treats just by listening a bit, you’re walking successfully past the dogs and people who might have been a crazy distraction before. 

Do that every time you come to class, and soon you’ve built a pattern. You’re the most reliably rewarding thing in your dog’s life, even when you’re out and about. Get ready for some very nice attention to follow.

4. Expect to miss some instruction.

During class, be ready to keep on working hard just managing your dog. Don’t worry if that means you miss a bit of what’s being said! You may find it helps to present your pup with a new chew like a bully stick so that you can listen to the instructor as she explains the next exercise. If your pup is slightly more advanced, you can quietly ask for (and reward!) sits, touches, and looks while the trainer is talking. 

“Wait, how am I supposed to listen if I’m busy with toys and management?” I hear you. It is frustrating. But even if you have to work so hard on managing your wild creature that you barely absorb the official goings-on, this experience can be a fantastic hour for your pup. You’re out of the house, and pup is seeing the world. And if you’re staying cool and positive, then it’s bonding time for the two of you. Next time, it’ll be easier, and the time after that, even more so. Just keep your head in the right place and keep on coming!

5. Do your homework!

While we humans are working our bums off during class, our dogs are maybe, sort of, halfway learning a thing or two. The truth is that what’s really happening in that class is that humans are learning how to teach various behaviors effectively. It’s the at-home practice that results in your dog truly learning the behaviors.  

Carve out a few minutes a day to practice exactly what you did in class. Do it in the kitchen, progress to the backyard, then take the big step to the distraction-filled front yard. Be ready to be amazed at 1) how much your dog adores this time with you, and 2) how incredibly smart your pup is. 

One of the best ways to make your at-home training more effective is to ask somebody else to take a few quick videos of you working together. (Or just prop your phone up at the right angle and record!) Even dog trainers catch themselves making mistakes that way! Look closely, find that misstep, and watch how your results change. You may well find yourself addicted to noticing tiny improvements each week. 

Obviously, I’m a big fan of a well-run group class. I offer private, in-home training, but I encourage all of my clients to also find a class, and here’s why:

  • Those distractions that are so challenging at first end up being gold in terms of teaching your dog to focus in any environment.
  • You learn so much from watching other teams work together.
  • You gain perspective when you see everybody else’s strengths and weaknesses.
  • Both you and your dog make friends – which can start with funny commiseration and build into great playdates, joint walks, and even pet-sitting trades.

Finally, yet another bonus to group class: You’ll have an audience of witnesses to cheer the fact that you’ve really come a long way from that first crazy day! 

New Puppy Tips and Questions Answered

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new puppy tips
Good thing they are so darn cute! Preventing the pup from chewing on everything but the toys you bought her; teaching her to go potty only outside and never under the dining room table; introducing her to a collar, harness, and a leash... There are challenges to navigate with a new puppy. But there is no better investment of time and attention to all of those challenges than the first days and weeks you spend with your new pup.

For the past few weeks, as I have been working on this issue, I have also been promoting my latest batch of foster puppies to potential adopters, making arrangements for them to come and meet the pups, trying to make the best matches between the puppy candidates and the interested families … and, inevitably, saying goodbye to each darling little puppy face – sending them off with their new families for the start of the best lives I can hope for them, with tears and kisses on the puppy lips. 

While doing that emotional work, though, I’ve also been answering questions from the adoptive families: What food should I buy? Do they have to sleep in a crate? How many more vaccinations do they need? How soon can I walk them around my neighborhood? 

Then there is the information that I want them to know that is a priority for me – things they have not thought of (yet) but that I know will come up! Stuff like, what sort of collars, harnesses, and leashes to buy (and not to buy), how to housetrain the pups, and why they should have signed up for a puppy kindergarten class already. 

No matter how much emailing we have been doing in preparation for puppy pick-up day, there is always something I feel I have missed. For years, I have been saying I need to compile a whole puppy manual that contains answers to every question that adopters have asked me, with all the information that I have learned over the past 24 years from all of WDJ’s contributing writers – who are amazing trainers, veterinarians, and nutrition experts. But the demands of the next month’s deadline arrives soon enough (and sometimes, so does the next litter of foster pups), so that manual just doesn’t get done. 

For now, for my most recent puppy adopters, this article, full of references to past articles in WDJ, will have to do. And who wants to read a book anyway? People want short, digestible answers to their most urgent questions, so here’s my best attempt at it. 

Q:  What’s the secret to housetraining? Start thinking about it on the ride home. Plan to carry the pup from the car straight to the area where you want her to eliminate, and make sure that no other dogs or people are present to distract or intimidate her. And then just wait with her calmly, for as long as it takes for her to “go.” (Prepare yourself to wait to empty your own bladder until your pup has emptied hers!)

The goal is to immediately give her a safe, quiet place where she feels relaxed enough to empty her bladder (and perhaps her bowels) – so when, in another hour, after introducing her to her new home and family, allowing her to drink her fill, and perhaps having a little meal, you take her outside, she will recognize that safe space and, more quickly this time, “go” again. Praise be! And treats, too. 

From then on, for the next few days, your job is to shadow your new pup every minute that she is awake – and to whisk her outside at every moment that it appears she might be feeling, er, a little full. That thought will occur to her routinely, within a minute or two after drinking, eating, or waking up from a nap – and then, of course, at random moments in between all that. 

The only times you can relax and take your eyes off your pup in these first few days? When she’s outside or enclosed in a crate or small exercise pen – some place that she will be disinclined to make a mess. (I’d add, “or sound asleep,” but puppies have a way of waking up and going pee the moment you step out of the room!)

The secret, if all of this can be boiled down to one sentence, is, from the first minute in your home, to never give her an opportunity to make a mistake and eliminate in your house, to give her many, many opportunities to eliminate outdoors, and to richly reward each of those outdoor successes. (And if she does eliminate indoors, to make every effort to remove every scent-bearing molecule of the urine or feces, so it doesn’t enter her nose to alert her subconscious brain that “It’s time to pee again!” every time she walks by that spot.)

For more about housetraining, see “How to Potty Train a Dog,” July 2018.

Q:  What should I feed her? I’d say, “Find out what she’s been getting fed and start there ….” but in the case of many shelters and rescues, you may not be able to get an answer. And, in any case, you may want to change her food anyway. 

The first thing to do is to make sure that you are buying foods that are formulated to meet the needs of growing puppies. Look for the “nutritional adequacy” statement on the bag, a.k.a. the “AAFCO” statement. (It’s called this because it will reference the Association of American Feed Control Officials in the statement.) For puppies, the statement must say that the food meets the nutritional requirements of either “dogs of all life stages” or for “growth.” 

Next: As regular subscribers know, I’m a big proponent of feeding dogs and puppies a lot of variety. The more kinds of foods they get, the sturdier their digestion seems to become. I buy small bags for puppies, so I can determine what they like the most and what foods and ingredients best agree with their little digestive tracts. The most critical part of this is to keep track of what you are feeding and how her tummy handled it by noting any deviations from a nice, normal poop. 

To keep track of what I’ve fed, I like to cut out the ingredient panel from the foods I am feeding and tape them on the calendar (I write down the name of the food on the start date of each bag, and then do the thing with scissors and tape when the bag is finally empty.)

As to the notes about poop? It doesn’t matter whether you note this in your online calendar program or the calendar hanging on your kitchen wall – just note it! You can’t possibly remember it otherwise. A liquid poo, a trend toward constipation, terrible gas? Make a note. 

After a few months, you should start seeing some trends. If she tends to turn up her nose at a particular brand, stop buying it. If fish-based foods seem to give her the runs – cut them out of your rotation. If she vomits a few times each time she’s being fed from a bag of beef-based food, start avoiding beef-based foods! If she gets itchy on certain foods, go back and look at your calendar for clues; what do those itch-correlated foods have in common? It may take time and detective work, but you should start to see trends. 

“But wait!”you say. “I’ve always heard that you should switch foods gradually, over the course of a week or more!” Unless your pup is one of those whose digestive tract is very touchy, or who turns out to be allergic to a number of food ingredients, if you switch foods frequently, you should be able to switch foods at the drop of a hat without any reaction at all. 

For more about food choices, see “How Long to Feed Puppy Food?” May 2021 and “Puppy Needs New Food!” September 2020.

Crate-training goes best when it’s undertaken slowly and with sensitivity regarding the puppy’s response to being in there. You’ve got time and other tools available for safety confining the pup; use them as long as needed to get your puppy’s complete and happy buy-in.

Q:  Should I crate-train her? In my opinion, teaching a dog to be comfortable in a crate is doing them and you a huge favor – if for no other reason than making them feel safe and calm when they have to be crated (in a small cage) at the vet or in an environmental emergency. As a volunteer at my local animal disaster-response group, I have seen how traumatic it is for some dogs who have been separated from their families during wildfires and floods to be held in a crate – and how others accept the containment placidly, fully trusting that their owners will return to let them out at some point. If an earthquake, tornado, flooding, or fire separates you and your dog, may he never be the former, only the latter!

That said, it’s not necessary to start a rigid crate-training protocol on Day 1 in your home – and frankly, I think there are more puppies who get traumatized by a “crate them at all costs!” approach than there are puppies who happily accept this close confinement. I like to see a crate present and in use from Day 1, but with the door open! Let your pup begin to associate it with only good things. Toss treats into the crate, smear some peanut butter on the back wall (if you have a plastic crate), and feed him his kibble in a scatter in there – all with the door open. If it seems like he’s happy hanging out in there, reward him with one of his favorite toys, chewies, or a nice big meaty raw bone. 

Of course, it’s nice (and sometimes quite necessary) to be able to secure the pup in an enclosed space to keep him out of trouble for a period of time that’s commensurate with his ability to “hold it.” If your puppy is already completely relaxed and calm about being in the crate with the door closed – well, you’ve hit the jackpot. Don’t abuse this or take it for granted! Don’t make him stay locked in there for too long at first, or his willingness to go in may quickly fade. If, in contrast, he’s still on the fence about being in the crate, and anxious about you shutting the door, don’t rush it! Either invest in a nice, sturdy exercise pen, so he can be contained but not feel quite as trapped. (Or, put him in a small room, like a bathroom or baby-gated kitchen, that you can thoroughly puppy-proof; put up all soaps and cleaners and garbage pails and anything that can be pulled down, such as shower curtains or brooms and mops.)

If you need to leave him alone in his safe confinement area for more than an hour or two, you should also provide him with a legal place to eliminate. Training pads, litter boxes, turf boxes, and even special watertight bathroom boxes are available for this purpose.

Then, as he matures, keep up the crate-training, never over-using it, forcing him into it, or failing to let him out when he’s miserable in there. While many trainers used to say that it was important to wait until a dog or puppy stopped crying or pawing at the door to get out, we know now this approach can (and frequently does) backfire, creating a dog who panics not only when he’s in the crate, but when it appears he’s going to be left home alone at all. 

For in-depth advice about crate-training, see “Crate Expectations: What You Need to Know About Your Dog’s Crate,” July 2020.

Look on the bright side: Everyone in your home will be reminded to keep their floors clean and shoes put away. Your home may never look so neat and tidy again.

Q:  How do I keep him from eating my socks and chewing on the furniture? The extent of the puppy-proofing that’s necessary varies from pup to pup. I’ve fostered some pups who could be trusted to hang out alone in my office for hours with no crating or puppy-pens whatsoever, despite the availability of multiple electrical and computer cords under my desk and books, magazines, and knick-knacks on shelves all around the room and at puppy-height. In contrast, I’ve had others I couldn’t take my eyes off for a moment without something getting chewed up. 

And then there is Exhibit A, my own dog Woody, my only foster-failure (foster puppy that I kept) to date, who spent the better part of his first year chewing on our furniture and parts of the house, for crying out loud. He chewed nearly through a young apple tree trunk in the yard! If it was wood, he would chew it. (I blame my husband for naming him Woody, because he wasn’t chewing wood before he was named that!)

Though I (clearly) wasn’t always successful at it – he was particularly challenging! – I knew how to prevent this: 

  1. Give him a wealth of “legal” chew toys. Determine what textures he likes best – hard plastic, plastic with “give,” meaty bones, bull pizzles, wooly toys, fabric toys, and perhaps, yes, wood – and make sure he has a lot of them. (Finding sticks and pieces of untreated lumber that wouldn’t splinter when Woody chewed them was our hobby for a year or so.) 
  2. Prevent his unfettered access to the things you don’t want him to chew. Use baby gates or doors to keep him out of rooms that can’t be puppy-proofed and puppy pens to protect bookshelves, or to fence off your home office desk so the pup can’t go under and chew on cords. Pick up socks and underwear, put shoes in closets, put the kitchen and bathroom trash under the sink, and so on. 
  3. Every time you catch him with something he’s not supposed to have, don’t yell, admonish, or snatch it away; go find his favorite toy or a handful of particularly delicious treats, and trade him the toy or treats for whatever he has. 

This phase will pass, I promise. Woody hasn’t eaten a tree or door frame in years.

See “Protocol for Teaching a Safe ‘Trade,’” May 2020. 

Barking with Joy

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Whole Dog Journal Editor-In-Chief Nancy Kerns

I adopted my dog Otto, seen in the photo with me, from my local shelter. He had been brought to the shelter by a person who said she found him in her chicken pen; allegedly, he had killed some of her chickens. The shelter estimated his age at 6 months; his adult teeth appeared to be newly erupted, and 6 months is about the time this happens. 

I fell for him the minute I spotted his scruffy visage on the shelter website. He had been in the shelter a month at that point, and so was about 7 months old. I gave him my dad’s birthday, which was November 30. That was in June 2008. This means that at some point this month, whether on his made-up birthday or the actual, unknown date, he will be 14 years old at some point this month.

I’ve never had a dog make it to 15 years old. The Border Collie I owned when WDJ was launched made it to just past 14. While achieving 15 years of age is not impossible, for a big dog (70 pounds), it’s not the norm. And he has some health issues. He has severe arthritis in his front paws and shoulders. He had a benign tumor sliced off his liver a few years ago, and he’s covered with lipomas – more every day! He often pants for no particular reason, even when it’s not remotely warm. Anxiety? Some other issue? I don’t know, and the chest x-rays and abdominal ultrasounds I schedule for him annually don’t show anything amiss. 

And he’s lost a huge portion of his hearing. It seems to me that the hearing loss accelerated exponentially over the past year. He no longer hears our squeaky doors open and close, my calls for him to stop barking at the feral cat who sits in the orchard across the street, or the crunching of gravel as I walk by his shaded sandbox; if he’s napping there, he will no longer wake up and get to his feet to join me on my 100-yard walk to my office. In fact, I can walk right up to his sandbox, sit on the edge, and call his name several times before he awakens with a start. It breaks my heart to see the startled expression on his face when he wakes up and sees me close by, or when I enter a room and he suddenly sees me, not having heard me coming.

But he’s still enjoying life. He still watches for and barks at that cat in the morning, when she warms herself in the sun – and he keeps a vigil for each of the two post office trucks that pass our house daily (we live on a corner and each street is serviced by a different truck), so he can roar down the fence line “chasing” the trucks away. He’s good at it; they always leave! He may limp and pant afterward, but it clearly brings him joy. Years ago, I would have yelled for him to stop; now I cheer him on. You go, Otto! Keep going for as long as you are having fun. Happy birthday, my beloved scruffy wonder dog. 

Download The Full November 2021 Issue PDF

  • New Pup, Now What?
  • Group Therapy
  • Morning Vomit
  • Total Breakdown
  • Control Yourself!
  • Meds to Stop Itching
  • DIY Holiday Gifts for Dogs and Dog Lovers
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The Veterinarian and Vet Tech Shortage Is Getting Really Scary

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Little Samson at 8 weeks

Back in July, I wrote a piece for this space about the increasing frequency of reports I was seeing about emergency veterinary clinics suspending 24-hour service. I asked readers if they were experiencing this in their parts of the country – and people from everywhere in the U.S. responded that, YES, wait times have increased exponentially at veterinary ER clinics and it’s getting harder to find one that still offers overnight care.

Well, I finally came up against the phenomenon myself. My friend Leonora has a tiny little dog, Samson (my dog Woody’s best friend from puppyhood). Samson’s usual weight is 4 pounds, 8 ounces – his long legs are like pencils and he is slender. But a little over a week ago, he vomited up a little puddle of bile on a Friday morning and refused to eat anything for the rest of the day. Leonora reported that he was still relatively cheerful, though a little quieter than usual – and he refused any food or treat offered to him.

When, on Sunday morning, the tiny guy was still refusing food, Leonora and I agreed he should be seen by a veterinarian. She called our closest 7-day veterinary clinic. They said they could absolutely NOT fit him in that day, nor for more than a week for a regular appointment, but if Leonora wanted to drop him off on Monday and have him spend the day with them, they could try to look at him between appointments. Leonora was grateful for the offer, but no. Samson is so small, he has nearly nothing in terms of bodily reserves, so we both felt it was important to try to have him seen sooner.

Then she called our closest veterinary emergency practice (about 30 minutes away). They said that the current wait time was at least 4-5 hours, and that all cases would be triaged, so if worse cases came in and Samson was stable, his appearance in front of a veterinarian would be pushed back. Fair enough on a Sunday, but yikes!

She called another emergency practice, a bit farther away, and they said their wait time was about 2 hours, with the same triage/worse cases rule in place. I told her I would go with her and hang out with her for the wait. We arrived at about 11 am – and left that evening at about 7 pm with some concerning blood test results, an anti-nausea medication, and some subcutaneous fluids onboard for Samson, and a recommendation to head to another clinic the next day if the morning saw him no better and still not eating.

Monday morning, still no appetite. Leonora and Samson spent 8 hours the next day at our closest emergency clinic, and left that evening with yet more medications (more of the anti-nausea drug, an appetite stimulant, an antibiotic, and a probiotic) and more sub-q fluids on board, more inconclusive blood test results, and an appointment for more tests the next day.

On Tuesday, he had more tests, more meds – and by that night, his appetite began returning. The further tests had ruled out multiple conditions that could have caused his lack of appetite and abnormal blood test results, though we still don’t know what caused his initial nausea and lack of appetite. He has an appointment for another blood draw at the end of this week and one with a veterinary gastroenterologist in a month.

Samson cuddling with his big buddy Woody.

As scary as it was for those of us who care about Samson, his story is undramatic; while Leonora’s wait times were lengthy, Samson did receive care and attention on each day – something that we have gotten accustomed to taking for granted but are extra grateful for today. We’re glad that it wasn’t something worse but can’t help but worry; it might still develop that his condition is chronic and serious.

And of course, I worry about my most fragile dog, soon-to-be 14-year-old Otto. As Samson has grown steadily better this past week, Otto skipped three consecutive meals himself! Why?! A year ago or more, he had gone through a period where he didn’t want to eat much, and was prescribed some medications to soothe his digestive tract and fight any nausea he might be experiencing. After his second skipped meal this week, I jumped to ask his vets for prescriptions of those medications again –and tried not to panic when I learned that both of the vets he’s seen most commonly – at two different clinics! – were out of town for a few days. Fortunately, another vet at one of those practices was able to look at his records and sign off on dispensing those meds. Of course, after his third skipped meal but before I had given him a single medication, Otto asked for dinner and has dug into every food dish with relish since then. Oy!

But I’m glad to have the meds on hand, just in case. And I will be making an appointment for him to be seen; if it takes a month to get an appointment, I need to start now!

If, in the back of your mind, you know your dog needs a veterinary appointment soon, get on the phone and make that call today! You may not be able to book a routine appointment for months! And be extra careful with your own dog, so accidental poisoning or injuries (as much as that may be possible) can be prevented.

New Searchable Database of Approved Canned Dog Foods

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What with all the foster puppies around, and trying to get all of their adoption interviews scheduled, I haven’t managed to find the time to properly announce an incredibly cool thing that subscribers to WDJ magazine now have at their disposal. (As of this past weekend, all the pups are placed, hurray! As soon as I receive a nice photo of each pup with their new families, I am going to post them on the WDJ Instagram page, dogsofwholedogjournal.) Now I can concentrate fully on work again.

What’s the cool new tool? It’s a searchable database of ALL of the foods on our “approved canned foods list,” which is published in our October issue.

Previously, when we published a review of a category of foods, we would catalog each of the foods made by each company on our list, but publish only a summary for each company – and, by necessity, this is still what will be published in our print version. For each company, we list how to reach them (city, state, phone, website), how many varieties they offer, what the range of fat and protein levels are in their products (lowest amounts, highest amounts) and then a few comments about the company.

But now, on our website, for the online version of the approved foods lists, we have included every single variety made by the companies on our “approved foods list” – and expanded the details about each variety. Now, you can see the name of each variety, its complete ingredients list, and the amount of fat and protein each food contains. (If you’d prefer the summary for each manufacturer, you can still access the list in its old form, both in the print version and by downloading the PDF of the complete issue from your account online.)

Enter your search criteria (adding as many filters as needed)…

And here’s the best part: You can use filters on the list to search for foods for your dog’s unique needs. Looking for a beef-based food? Easy: Just type “beef” into the search box and click “enter” and you will get a list of all the foods on our approved canned foods list that contain beef.

But wait, what if you need a beef-based food with less than 6% fat? And you want to make sure that it doesn’t contain peas? Just apply the filters.

In this case, you’d click on “add filter.” In the first box, where it says “where” you’d click on the drop-down menu and choose “ingredients,” make the second box say “contains,” and in the third box you’d type “beef.” Then you’d click “add filter” again, select “and” in the first box, “minimum fat content” in the second box, “is lower than” in the third box, and type in “6%” in the fourth box. Finally, click on “add filter” again, “and” in the first box, “ingredients” in the second box, “does not contain” in the third,” and type in “peas” in the fourth box. Then you click on “submit” and voila! A list of 66 foods that all meet your unique criteria – and ours!

…and the database shows all foods that meet your unique criteria – and ours!

It’s taken quite a bit of tinkering to make this happen, but I’m absolutely thrilled that we’ve pulled it off. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been shopping for a few candidate foods for a dog with some dietary allergy or other restrictions and spent hours trying to find ones that contained – or didn’t contain – some ingredient or another.

We’ve used the “approved canned food” list as the guinea pig for our upcoming “approved dry dog foods list,” which runs annually in the February issue, which is generally much larger. We usually collect even more information about the dry foods than the canned foods. For example, we add information about how many of their products are formulated for “adult maintenance only” and how many are “for dogs of all life stages.” We indicate how many of each company’s products are made with fresh or frozen meat, meat meal, or both. We indicate how many varieties are grain-free and how many contain grain. For the next review in February, we expect to be able to offer you searchable details on every single one of the individual varieties on our “approved dry foods” list, too.

I invite you to play with the database, try some custom searches, and tell us what you think! If you have any problems, we’d love to hear about them so we can fix them in advance of the dry food review.

A Trip to Kansas (With Dogs in Mind)

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Two rambunctious young shelter dogs playing in the half-acre yard at the City of Manhattan Animal Shelter.

A couple of months ago, I had the opportunity to visit a former coworker/friend I hadn’t seen for a decade or more. He had invited me to a party he throws annually – one that I had declined with regret every year, because he lives in Kansas and I live in California. But what with the sudden loss of a beloved family member, vaccination against COVID, and the opening up of restrictions on gatherings, I decided that life is too short to turn down invitations like that. I flew to Kansas, went to the party and stayed for a couple nights with my friend and another of our coworkers from 25 years ago. It was wonderful to catch up with both friends and to compare notes about our lives, a quarter-century down the road.

I. Love. Kansas.

When I booked the trip, I gave myself a couple of unscheduled days to decompress and do whatever I felt like. After I said goodbye to my friends, I spent a day driving through the tallgrass prairie range in east-central Kansas. The endless green grass, the matchless blue sky, the billowing white clouds … it was so healing (especially since, back at home, our sky was smoky from wildfires and the drought has everything looking very brown).

Eventually (like, after half a day, lol) I started feeling too self-indulgent; I should do some work while I was out there. I ended up touring through a town where there are several dog-food manufacturing plants (Emporia), and visiting the animal shelter there. As a long-time shelter volunteer, I love visiting other shelters; folks who do the same things in different places do them in different ways and I always see something interesting to try back at home.

I also called a friend, Dr. Greg Aldrich, a professor at Kansas State University and founder of that school’s Pet Food Program, to ask him what other dog-food-related tourism I ought to take in. He tried to pull a few strings to see if he could get me into any production facilities where he had connections, but the COVID restrictions were still limiting visits at each place he tried. However, in a generous act, he invited me to K-State and said he’d give me a tour of the Pet Food Program’s facilities.

I headed to Manhattan, Kansas, and had just enough time to spend an hour visiting that town’s animal shelter before it closed. What I loved most at that shelter: The friendly, humorous, and encouraging signage in the shelter, which showed their commitment to giving each ward some individual attention, and invited visitors to engage with the shelter in any way possible; and the HUGE wooded play yard that was directly outside the dog kennel’s back doors. Staff and volunteers can (and did, while I was there) just open a dog’s run, open the back door to that room, and allow the eager dog to ZOOM out the door and run and romp up and down a hill and among trees and grass to their heart’s content. What fun! No struggling to get a leash on a crazily over-eager dog so you can be dragged through corridors to get outside – just opening the kennel gate and then the door, and “Here you go!” I loved that setup.

Allowing shelter dogs to recreate in groups helps them discharge pent-up energy and keeps them calmer when they are indoors. This is GREAT! And I loved the signage around the shelter; planting seeds in the minds of potential adopters of things they can do for the animals there is a great idea.

After playing with some dogs, I found a hotel and settled in for the night. The next day, I met Dr. Aldrich (and his enormous silver Lab, Lucre, who gets to go to work with his dad) at K-State. He took me on a tour of the Pet Food Program’s school facilities, where undergraduate, Masters, and PhD students conduct hands-on research into pet food formulation and production. What an amazing program! Students who are interested in a career in pet food production can conduct research into formulation and manufacturing; the university has facilities for everything from grain-milling, meat-processing, freeze-drying, baking, canning, and extruding. Multiple laboratories exist for biological and chemistry tests. The students actually manufacture pet food under various conditions and with various ingredients and evaluate the nutrition in the resulting products.

Good For K-State, a K-State alumni magazine, describes the program this way:

“This program draws talent from many areas within the College of Agriculture such as grain science, agricultural economics, animal science and food science. Engineering and veterinary medicine faculty and students also collaborate with the pet food program, along with foods, nutrition, dietetics and health in the College of Health and Human Sciences.”

Dr. Aldrich ordered a stack of pizzas and hosted an impromptu lunch for me and the graduate students who were around campus on this summer day. He invited them to introduce themselves to me and describe their goal in the pet food industry. I was so impressed with their interest and passion for pets and pet food, and fascinated with the projects they were working on for their various Masters and PhD projects.

While I met only graduate students, the K-State program also has offerings for undergrads, including a pet food minor and an option within feed science and management.

This building at K-State, in Manhattan, Kansas, is the home of Dr. Greg Aldrich’s Pet Food Program for undergrad and graduate students.

Dr. Aldrich says the one thing the program could use is more students. “Kansas has declining enrollment numbers for students of college age, yet the industry is asking us for more and more young people to come work for their companies,” he told me.

According to Good For K-State, the U.S. is the largest market in the world for pet food, a $33 billion business annually.

Dr. Aldrich had another meeting and the students had to get back to their projects. I thanked them all and hit the road again. I had a few more hours to kill before I headed back to Kansas City to catch my flight home. I thought, I’ll go visit some pet supply stores! This is another habit I like to indulge when I travel. I love seeing the different products that are stocked by stores in different areas of the country; the food, toys, and even training gear are quite different!

Here was something else that was quite different: What I call “pet supply stores” in California are truly “pet stores” in Kansas; at least, the two I visited were. They actually sell puppies. Like, lots of puppies. One store had over 70 puppies; the other had nearly 50.

The only way that there could be this many puppies in the same age range and of so many different sizes and breeds (and breed-mixes; they were not all purebreds) in stores in this many numbers: puppy mills, which are apparently thriving in some parts of the country.

This is no way to grow up. Some puppies are too young and not well. They don’t get bowls of water, because they are too messy. Instead they drink from rabbit-waterers.

I don’t know the answer. How can we produce enough dogs to satisfy demand without having to breed and sell them in this way? I can’t imagine how harmful it is to their development to have to live for any length of time in those tiny wire-bottomed enclosures, drinking from those horrible ball-bearing rabbit-waterers. And what happens to the pups who “age out” in the stores? Do they return to the puppy mills to be forced into a life of endless reproducing themselves? Ugh! I hated everything about these stores, and wish that no one bought pups this way.

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Parts of Fostering

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Soon they discovered the cool joys of hanging out in my senior dog's damp sandbox. Otto had to move out of his own sandy heaven for a while.

My current fostering project is a little different from what I usually take on. Ordinarily, my local shelter will contact me if they have a large litter of puppies that need some TLC. I will keep them until they are healthy and old enough, in the shelter’s judgment, to undergo spay/neuter surgery and go up for adoption at the shelter.

This time, for the first time, it’s me who has dragged the shelter (as well as my closest friend here in town) into a fostering project.

I follow a few Facebook groups for lost and found pets in my local area. More than once, I’ve been able to reunite a found dog with his owner by searching through these group posts. But in mid-August, I saw a post for a “found” dog who looked like she had a litter of puppies somewhere, and a looong string of comments from concerned people in our community. Dozens of people suggested that the finder take the dog to the shelter; this was countered by dozens of other people saying, “Don’t do it! Wherever her puppies are, they will starve without her!”

Then there was a comment from a woman saying she was a friend of the owner. She said that the owner was homeless, that the dog had eight puppies, and the owner was struggling to keep the dog fed and contained.

Without really thinking it through, I left a comment on the post: “I would be happy to foster this mother and her puppies, if the owner would agree to turning over all the pups to (my local shelter) and let me get her spayed.” The offer was genuine, but I thought the likelihood of the owner agreeing to this was low.

To my surprise, the very next day I received a message from the woman who said she knew the owner. She told me that she had discussed my offer with the owner, and that he agreed to my terms. She also mentioned that he was a drug addict and that his family was trying to get him into treatment – so if his dog could be cared for somewhere safe for a while, it would be a blessing. And she asked if I could meet her that day to pick up the dog and her pups.

She also mentioned that the people who were currently hosting the homeless guy, the mama dog, and her puppies had no dog food on hand. And that she herself was out of food for her own dogs, having given what she had to this homeless crew days before.

Yikes! At that point I realized I had better check with the shelter, to see if they were on board with all of this; otherwise, I was going to need to do some fundraising! Fortunately, the shelter manager saw the wisdom of getting ahead of this problem. By spaying the mama dog and preventing the puppies from being given away or sold, intact, in our town, we were likely preventing many more puppies from entering the shelter down the road.

I asked my friend Leonora if she would come with me to meet the woman and pick up the dog and pups. But first, we went to a pet supply store and bought dog food – for the woman, for the mother dog, and a bunch of canned food for the puppies.

It turned out that the owner of the dog was living in someone’s backyard. When we got to that house, I immediately recognized the mother dog I had seen in the photos on Facebook; her name is Luna, and she has a distinctive ridge pattern on her back. She approached us immediately in a very friendly fashion and hopped right into my car. People were rushing around the property, trying to locate all the puppies, as I handed over a bag of dog food to the woman who had brokered this whole deal, for her dogs. She told me thanks, and then asked, “Do you have more? These people have other dogs here, too – including one of Luna’s puppies from last year…” As she said this, I saw another dog who looked just like Luna, complete with the crazy, intricate swirling ridge on her back, running around the yard. I opened the large bag of food I had bought to feed to Luna, and scooped about half of it into a grocery bag to give to these people.

At this point, seven puppies had been put into the back of my car; Leonora was keeping track. We asked, “Where is the eighth pup?” The woman waved her hands around and said, “I’ll…I’ll tell you later.” I was left assuming that something awful had happened to it, or that they couldn’t find it, or something. It seemed like it was best to get out of there.

One puppy was half the size of the biggest ones, so I tried to give her extra time with her mom; in the first days of our fostering arrangement, she was always getting edged out.

Settling in

Leonora and I got Luna and the puppies situated in a 10-foot by 10-foot kennel with shadecloth over it, with a big doorless crate serving as a doghouse. We opened a can of food for the pups, who appeared to be about four weeks old – walking around, though not well or that quickly. They scarfed up the can of food like they were starving; I could believe the people had been out of food. I opened a second can of food, which quickly disappeared. They only slowed down into the third can. I fed the rest of that can and a fourth can to Luna, along with a heaping helping of dry food. Though it appeared that she had plenty of milk still, she wasn’t all that enthusiastic about feeding the pups.

The next day, I exchanged a few messages with the woman who brokered our foster arrangement. She asked if I could send her some pictures of Luna and the babies, and I complied. I asked about the eighth puppy – and that’s when she confessed that the owner had already given one of them away! At 4 weeks old! I was a little angry about this development; I had been trying to prevent any of the pups from having an opportunity to add to the pet overpopulation problem. As it was, I think we snatched the litter away in the nick of time; the rest of those pups would likely have been sold or given away within days, otherwise.

A couple days later, while the pups were sleeping, I took Luna to the shelter so she could be scanned. She was excited and happy to enter the shelter and greet everyone there. It turns out that she had been picked up as a stray several times before; on a former stay at the shelter, the staff had implanted her with a microchip that was registered with Luna’s owner’s name and the woman’s name and phone number.

When I first got the pups, the weather in my area was still quite hot – over 100° F. most days. Though they were in the shade, the pups would grow visibly uncomfortable and whiny as the day heated up. I started bringing them into my office at about 11 a.m. each day, so they could hang out in a cooled environment until the day’s temperatures dropped to a more tolerable range and they could go outside and play on the dampened lawn. Of course, that meant taking them outside for frequent potty breaks – and cleaning up more than a few “accidents” between their giant crate (a Great Dane-sized crate someone gave me years ago for the Great Dane foster pups I was raising then) and the door to my office. With seven puppies to wrangle, there is always at least one who stops and pees while you are trying to hustle the rest outside.

A couple weeks later, I brought Luna and her pups to the shelter. She received a dewormer and a flea treatment; they received dewormer and their first vaccinations. They had their weights and temperatures recorded and their first little “mugshots” taken.

Feeding the pups in this child’s play tent helped keep the yellowjackets out of their food!

Fostering at two addresses

Soon enough, the pups were starting to explore my yard when they weren’t in the 10-foot-square kennel I used to contain them when I couldn’t supervise their wandering. And it was time to separate Luna from them; her milk needed to dry up entirely before she could have spay surgery. Thank goodness for my friend Leonora; she has a much larger fenced enclosure where the pups could be more safely contained, even as they had a ton of space to play in. And she lives just over a mile from me! I kept Luna at my house, and the puppies (and the lion’s share of caring for them) moved to Leonora’s house. For the first week or so, I went to Leonora’s house in the middle of her work day, to check that the pups were ok and to do a noon feeding, until it was clear that they could make it through Leonora’s work day on their own.

Fostering pups is a lot of work. Keeping them safely contained takes a ton of attention to the infrastructure. They are sure to find every possible hazard they can get into. They stick their heads into gaps in their enclosures and panic when they can’t pull their heads out immediately. There is a LOT of poop to be picked up – and in the first few weeks of getting weaned, much of the poop is a runny mess that requires a lot of hosing. At this time of year, “meat bees” (wasps) appear from out of nowhere any time we bring out the puppy food, and flies are drawn to the aroma of the hosed-down poop areas. Both Leonora and I have wasp and fly traps hanging all around the puppy enclosures – and we started serving the puppies’ meals to them in a child’s tent that had the zippered door unzipped just enough for the puppies to push their way in; only a few wasps got into the food that way. We were both constantly fussing with moving shade sails around, innovating pools of water for them to wade into and drink from, and spraying down the grass and sand in their enclosures in an effort to keep them cool.

Though Luna is a very sweet dog, and is house-trained and has reasonably good manners, she’s a mother, and like most mama dogs, thinks she ought to run the show around here. In her first few weeks here, though my younger dog Woody made numerous overtures to introduce himself, she would run toward him with enough ferocity to make the much-larger dog turn tail and run. My senior dog, Otto, just avoided her like the plague; he had no interest in kindling any sort of relationship with her. But to protect his rights to freedom from tyranny in his own home, I made Luna sleep in my office; I invited her into my house only when my dogs were outside.

Once the pups started staying at Leonora’s house, though, Luna started to be much friendlier to my dogs. She and Woody have turned into great buddies, enjoying similar “run, crash, and bash” play styles – though she takes every toy away from him and won’t let him fetch in her presence. She is a very funny little dog.

With the puppies at my friend’s house, Luna has decided she can now be friendly with my dog Woody. He likes to play chase games with her, but after being chased away for weeks, he’s remaining cautious!

Our work is nearly done – or is it?

Last week, Luna was finally “dry” enough to undergo spay surgery, which was performed by the shelter’s veterinarian. She has recovered and healed nicely.

Over the past week, I have been talking to and meeting with prospective adopters and getting appropriate homes lined up for all the pups – active homes for the high-octane pups, and more quiet families for the mellower fellows. They should all be placed by the end of next week, and I feel terrific about all the families they are going to.

Here’s the tough part: As I write this, I’m supposed to meet Luna’s owner to return her to him tomorrow. I’m going to make sure he knows that if he ever wants Luna to have a permanent home at a fixed address, I can find a family for her. And I already bought a big bag of food to send with her – for her and (probably) all the other dogs living at the home where her owner was camping in the yard. (When I asked the woman who has been acting as our intermediary whether Luna’s owner would have food ready to feed her, she told me, “Well, we’re pretty low… and I sure could use help getting my three dogs spayed…” Ay yi yi!)

I know that, all things considered, Leonora and the shelter and I have done a lot of good here – but at the moment, it just doesn’t feel that great.

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