Some dogs use pawing in order to get humans to pay attention to them, and if their nails need trimming, they usually succeed in getting that attention! If this is a behavior you don’t care for, try to anticipate when your dog is about to paw and turn or walk away, or ask her for a behavior that is incompatible with pawing, such as “Down!” Make sure you reinforce the behavior you have asked for when she does it. Photo by Vedrana Sucic / EyeEm / Getty Images
Many dogs get satisfaction from touching their humans with their paws. Some of us like it, some of us tolerate it, and some of us prefer dogs keep their paws to themselves. Why do dogs want to touch us with their paws? What’s in it for them?
Why Dogs Give You Their Paw
We know that behaviors that persist are somehow being reinforced. If your dog insists on touching you with her paw, she’s getting something out of it. It could be:
Someone taught her. “Shake” is a popular trick, and if you – or someone else – taught her this, it was probably done using treats (or something else your dog likes) as her reward. Now she thinks the way to get treats is to offer to shake!
Attention-seeking. Just like we might touch someone to get their attention, your dog learns that pawing you gets you to pay attention to her.
Reassurance-seeking. If your dog is worried about something, touching you with her paw could be her way of saying, “Please comfort me.”
What Should You Do About Paw Touching?
If you like it, you can continue to reinforce the paw-touching behavior when your dog offers it. If you find it annoying, you can teach her that she gets reinforced for “Shake” only if you’ve asked her to do it, and that, in contrast, attention-pawing will make your attention go away. (You can even use a cheerful “Oops!” as a no-reward marker to say, “That behavior made the good stuff go away.) Alternatively, you can reinforce her for touching her paw to something other than you.
Comfort-seeking is another matter. Anytime your dog seeks comfort from you, the best response is to give it to her, and determine why she needs comforting. Bottom line? If your dog is paw-touching you to communicate, value her communication efforts and try to figure out what she is trying to tell you.
There’s no room for misinterpretation here. This dog is having a grand time, shown by his relaxed face, open smiley mouth, and overall zest for fun. Credit Brighton Dog Photography | Getty Images
Dogs have the emotional capacity of a 2- to 3-year-old child. They can feel emotions (happy, sad, angry, fearful), but they can’t express them in words. It’s up to the adults around them to interpret their actions and body language.
Signs of happiness vary from dog to dog – but here are seven behaviors most dogs exhibit when they are happy:
Tail relaxed or body wagging, relaxed ears, relaxed body: A stiff body or tail with ears facing back means an unsure dog. It could signal aggression or worry. A wagging tail and relaxed ears means interest and comfort. A tail that’s low and wagging is more likely an indication the dog may be stressed.
Happy, relaxed face: Dogs “smile,” usually with their mouth open and showing some teeth. Snarling or curling back the lips means aggression. A hard stare is a clear indication the dog is not happy.
Happy dance: It’s usually from side to side, and they usually do it before a favorite activity, like eating, walking, hunting, or playing.
Play bow (bottom up, head and chest down): It almost always means they want to play, and it often precedes happy zoomies.
Happy barks: Usually shorter and higher pitched than regular barks.
Eating: A happy dog eats well because he’s not worried.
Good behavior: A happy dog usually doesn’t misbehave by chewing things or having accidents in the house.
Other signs of happiness can include being excited about activities and friendly toward other dogs and people. Again, though, many factors can cause a dog to be unfriendly, too. It’s a vital part of having a dog, so take the time to watch your dog and learn to understand his tail and other body language, so you can react to him appropriately.
This sled dog is showing the characteristic sign of snow nose. Note the pink coloration on what should clearly be a brown nose. Credit: Evgeny Kharitonov | Getty Images
Is your dog’s normally dark colored nose turning pink or tan? If it’s winter, and everything else about your dog is normal, this discoloration on a dog’s nose is likely a benign phenomenon called snow nose or Dudley nose. It is a seasonal loss of pigment in the nose, thought to be genetically linked to liver-colored noses. It can involve the whole nose, just a center stripe, or come in random patches. Dog breeds that commonly get snow nose include Siberian Huskies, Malamutes, American Eskimos, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Bernese Mountain Dogs, and Cocker Spaniels.
Nobody knows for sure why it happens, but it is thought to be associated with shorter daylight length and lack of sunlight that results in decreased melanin production. Melanin is the pigment in skin that makes you look tan in the summer. Many dogs, although not all, regain their darker nose color in the spring and summer. Some experts think this aspect of the syndrome may simply be due to the direct tanning effect of UV rays. Either way, your dog’s nose color will likely cycle with the seasons.
How to be sure it’s just snow nose and not something worse? Snow nose is just a color change, basically fading from dark to beige or pink. There are no other changes to the surface appearance, texture, or architecture of the nose, and the dog is not bothered by it.
If your dog’s nose has raised lesions or bumps; ulcerated or raw areas; crusting, scaling, scabbing or bleeding; or it seems uncomfortable, then it’s time to get to the vet. These symptoms do not happen with snow nose. They are more likely to be indicative of autoimmune disease, infectious disease, or cancer.
Snow nose has no known treatment or prevention. Some people have tried vitamin E (an antioxidant which stabilizes cell membranes so may slow down depigmentation) and kelp supplementation (high in iodine to aid thyroid hormone production, which is involved in the pigmentation process) has been suggested, although neither of these are likely to make a difference. The best thing you can do for your dog’s snow nose is to apply sunscreen to protect it, especially when it’s pink.
Sunscreen for Dogs
Look for a sunscreen made specifically for dogs. They are available as lotions, sprays, sticks, balms, ointments, and clothing. Look for a product that matches your dog’s lifestyle. Some must be applied 15 to 20 minutes before sun exposure, while others offer instant protection. Waterproof products may best suit swimming dogs.
Dog-safe sunscreens do not contain zinc oxide or para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), which are commonly found in human sunscreens and are toxic to dogs. If your dog has sensitive skin, test new products for allergic reactions by applying sunscreen to a small area of bare skin. Check it after 24 to 48 hours for signs of irritation and if it causes a reaction, try a different product.
Dogs enjoy rolling in grass, but the spot they choose often has something to do with the scent. Rudi Von Brief | Getty Images
Dogs Roll in Grass Due to Scent
Rolling in grass is all about scent – either covering it up, adding scent, or picking it up to himself. Dogs’ noses are up to 50 times more sensitive than ours, depending on the breed, so they can smell lots of gross things that they think are perfect for rolling.
An older study with wolves, published in the Canadian Journal of Zoology, found that wolves were most likely to rub in an odor not usually in the wolf’s environment or a familiar scent that is slightly different. And, not surprisingly, they found that some wolves seemed to roll in scents believed to have a strong aversion or attraction.
Your dog’s hunting instinct makes him roll in the grass, makes him roll where another animal has urinated or defecated, and makes him roll in a dead animal. It is speculated that rolling covers up his own scent so he can get closer to prey before they sense him.
What Does It Mean When a Dog Rolls in Grass?
Rolling is also a way to communicate with other pack members (including you!), telling them he’s nearby or to stay away from this area because it’s his.
And remember too that what smells good to us usually doesn’t smell good to them – and vice versa. So don’t be surprised when, as soon as you bathe your dog in that expensive, sweet-smelling shampoo, the first thing he does is roll in the grass or something else that stinks. That may well be because he thinks that he smells horrible!
Now, rolling can be a sign that something’s wrong, that he has fleas, an allergy, or a skin irritation. That’s when you have to note the rest of his behavior:
Does his rolling look manic?
Is he scratching where he rolls?
Is the skin red or irritated?
This behavior will help you decide if you should investigate further and maybe call the veterinarian.
And sometimes your dog rolls just because it feels good and makes him happy. And that’s just as natural as rolling in something due to scent.
Some dogs don’t miss a beat when wearing protective dog boots. Pawson the Run Photography | Getty Images
Most of the time, dogs don’t need shoes, boots, or socks. Their pads are tough enough for almost any surface and in all but extreme temperatures. There are times, however, when a set of well-fitting dog shoes will be welcomed by humans and canines alike.
Dog Shoes for the Winter
According to a 2011 study from Yamazaki Gakuen University in Japan, a dog’s feet can withstand freezing temperatures due to the dog’s unique circulatory system. In dog feet, veins and arteries are set close to each other and the blood in the arteries warm the cooler blood in the dog’s veins, helping to keep the body temperature in the paws balanced.
But there are limits, and dogs vary with what cold temperatures they can handle. A dog who is starting to lift a paw, alternating paws, keeps looking at his paw, or simply sits down so he can lift all four paws off the ground is experiencing discomfort.
The problem could be snowballs forming between his pads (clipping the hair in that area can reduce the chance of that happening), freezing temperatures, injuries from rough terrain, or irritation from crusty ice or snow, or ice-melt products, all of which may be prevented with boots.
Dog Shoes for Summer
In warm weather, stinging goats’ heads, foxtails, and other burrs can stick to the hair between the dog’s pads and make walking painful. Similarly, if the dog is walking over hot surfaces like sidewalks or blacktopped surfaces, his paws can get burned. A protective boot may help.
Getting Dog Shoes to Fit Properly
Finding boots that stay on and fit well can be a challenge. Follow manufacturer instructions carefully to obtain an accurate measurement of the dog’s paw length and width to get the right fit. You may need to experiment with different types and brands to find the one just right for your dog. If you can, go to a local store where you can try the boots on the dog.
Be prepared that your dog may take time to adjust to the boots because boots, even socks, affect dogs’ proprioception, his ability to “read” the ground under them. In addition, a study in the July 12, 2022, issue of Frontiers of Veterinary Science found that wearing dog boots does orthopedically impact the dog’s ground reaction forces (the force from the ground when a body contacts it) and center of pressure (load distribution in the dog’s paw). The researchers concluded that more research was needed, but there is an effect.
We know there are differences between big and little dogs in terms of exercise, tolerances for cold, and feeding, so adding in when to spay a female dog should come as no surprise. Buffy 1982 | Getty Images
The best age to spay a female dog varies depending on the breed and size of your dog. Studies have shown a possible link in large dogs between early spay/neuter and certain joint disorders (hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, injuries to the cranial cruciate ligament) and cancers (lymphoma, hemangiosarcoma, osteosarcoma, and mast cell cancer). This may be because the hormones associated with growth and development come from the gonads, so leaving the ovaries in place longer enhances the dog’s musculoskeletal health.
If you have a small breed dog or a mixed-breed dog less than 42 pounds, the timing of spay has not been linked to any of these diseases. Additionally, small dogs are not prone to developing spay incontinence (hormone-associated urinary incontinence after spay), which is also mainly large breed dog problem. What all this means that if you have a small dog, you can have her spayed whenever you want. (The exception is if you have a Shih Tzu. In one study, Shih Tzhs had a significantly higher risk of cancer if spayed before 1 year of age, so you’re better off waiting until she is 2.) Most veterinarians will spay small dogs as early as 6 months of age, before they have a heat cycle.
Risks of Spaying Too Early
Unnecessary tissue trauma due to fragile juvenile tissues
Scar tissue adhesions developing in the abdomen
Development of spay incontinence in big dogs
Large Dog Spays
The general recommendation for large breed dogs is to wait until at least 12 months to spay, as many of these breeds have shown an increased incidence of joint disorders and cancers if spayed earlier. This is especially true for Golden Retrievers, Viszlas, and Rottweilers. Cancer is so prevalent in Golden Retrievers, and so much higher in spayed Golden Retrievers, that some experts suggest not spaying Golden Retrievers at all. Spaying large breed females later also reduces the risk of hormone-associated urinary incontinence.
Overall, there are more pros than cons to spaying your female dog if she is not intended for breeding. Spaying means no messy heats, no unwanted pregnancies, less chance of breast cancer, no chance of ovarian or uterine cancer, and no chance of uterine infection (pyometra), which is a very common surgical emergency in older, intact (not spayed) female dogs.
When to Spay a Dog After a Heat Cycle
Remember that dogs come into heat approximately every six months. So, if you’re planning on having your dog spayed later, schedule the surgery so it is around two to three months after a heat. This allows time for everything to quiet down inside and the blood vessels that became enlarged during heat to get smaller, making the surgery a little safer and less complicated than when she is in heat.
Wave after wave of puppies are arriving at the shelter. While puppies are more readily adopted than adult dogs (in most cases), they often require more time at the shelter before they can be adopted, and more medical care. Each needs to be vaccinated and spayed or neutered – and they often end up with kennel cough, requiring time and treatment.
The difficulty in obtaining routine veterinary care may have contributed to the surge in pet overpopulation – but since that’s a long-term problem in itself, what can we do about all these dogs and cats right now?
I haven’t been volunteering at my local shelter lately; I’ve had my hands full with work stuff, family stuff, and my own three dogs. But I was running errands the other day with a little bit of time on my hands and decided to stop by and say hello to the director and the head RVT (registered veterinary technician) – the folks I’ve worked with and have known for the longest time, all 16 years I have lived in this town.
When I walked in, I could see that the director was absorbed in conversation with the front counter staff. I took a walk through the adoption kennel while waiting for her to be free. In the month of December, in an effort to get more pets “home for the holidays,” the shelter had waived the cost of all dog and cat adoptions, and I had been happy to see lots of photos of newly adopted pets and their new owners on the shelter’ Facebook page. Given all the photos I had seen, I hoped the adoption kennel would be only lightly populated.
I couldn’t have been more mistaken. Every single one of the 28 kennels contained at least one dog, and several contained two or even three dogs. As I walked along the kennel row, dismayed, another RVT on the staff, whom I’ve known for at least seven or so years, came into the adoption kennel through another door. We greeted each other, and I told her I was just killing time, waiting to say hi to the director. She said she was just taking a momentary break, and she joined me on my walk around the perimeter of the kennels, which are arranged in the center of the room. She gave me details about at least a dozen of the dogs as we walked – some of the hardest-luck cases and some of her favorite wards. There were a lot of sad stories.
While some dogs are more comfortable sharing a kennel with another dog, most shelters have numerous dogs who guard their food or a preferred resting place in the kennel, or who redirect aggression on their kennelmates when they get aroused as people walk through the shelter. Those dogs should be housed individually, but when the shelter is full, it becomes more difficult to provide individual kennels.
We did a similar walk around the perimeter of the “isolation” part of the building – a mirror version of the other room, also with 28 kennels. These pens were even more full, with two to three dogs in every kennel but the ones that had large “DANGER” signs on them – indicating dogs who have proven to be dangerously aggressive to other dogs and/or humans.
There was also one pen with a single dog in in who did not have a “danger” sign on his door. He looked to be an elderly Labrador, very thin, with a hind leg that he could not put weight on and which stuck out at a crazy angle. I read his cage card; it indicated he was “seized” – a police case of some kind – and that he was 19 years old. I raised my eyebrows at my friend. “That’s what the owner told police. We think he’s more like 12 years old or so. But we’re not sure what we’ve going to do with him. He is such a sweet boy.”
As we talked about that dog, we walked into a hallway in the office part of the shelter building, and ran into the shelter director. I told her how disappointed I was to see how full the shelter was. She said, “TELL me about it! I waived adoption fees all December, just to try to get some animals out of here. But it feels like for every one that left the building, five more came in!”
My friend the RVT joined our conversation. She had just been on the phone with the police discussing the cruelty and hoarding case that involved the skinny, crippled old Lab. “We had to seize 24 animals the other day, cats and dogs both – and it’s been quite a job, making room for them!” she said. “It’s crowded and stressful here,” she said, “But at least the poor animals will be fed and receive medical care!”
I asked her about the plan for the old Lab. She said, “You know, that’s exactly the kind of dog that we like to splurge on – to spend extra money to make sure he gets the time and medical care he needs to recover and find a happy home for the rest of his life. But it’s very hard to justify the time and money right now, with so many other needy animals. There is an 8-month-old Boxer with a broken leg who needs surgery, too – and we just spent a fortune treating a bunch of parvovirus cases.”
“And in the meantime,” the director added, “I have people coming in screaming at the front counter staff because we can’t take their dogs. We’re not taking any owner-surrendered animals right now; we have no room for them! This lady came in the other day mad because we wouldn’t take her three dogs. She was screaming, ‘This is your job! Why don’t you do your damn job?’ I wanted to tell her, ‘Why don’t you come in the back with me and tell me which dogs I should kill to make room for yours!’ ”
The RVT said, “Even the shelters and rescues that we’ve been working with for years, who take some of our excess animals from time to time – they are maxed out, too. At the moment, we’re hearing, ‘Sorry, we’re full!’ from every group we know.”
I asked my friends, “What do you think is happening? Why so many stray and surrendered animals right now?”
The RVT said, “I think that since COVID started, and so many veterinary practices were either shut down or taking only emergency or reduced caseloads, a lot of animals didn’t get spayed or neutered – and now we’re a couple or a few dog and cat generations into a population boom. We’re just drowning in puppies and kittens – more than ever – and also taking in a lot of 1-year-old dogs and 2-year-old dogs that people say they ‘just can’t keep anymore.’ I think there are a ton of ‘accidental litters’ that have been born over the past couple of years, due to the fact that people haven’t been able to get into a clinic and get their animals sterilized. And each litter of unneutered pups or kittens that are given away tends to create another!”
We didn’t talk for much longer; I didn’t want to keep them from their work. I made a donation – every little bit helps – and told them I’d be thinking about anything I could do to help with the limited amount of time I’ve been finding myself with lately.
Solutions: What can be done?
Being a writer, my go-to is to try to generate some buzz by writing about the plight of shelters everywhere, in an effort to get the word out to the animal-loving community: Please help your local shelters in any way you can! They are struggling under the weight of too much to do, and too little funding (almost always) to do it with. Fostering, donations, asking friends and family for donations – these things help a lot. Also, setting your Amazon account to an AmazonSmile account and choosing your local animal shelter as its charitable beneficiary helps, too. Amazon donates a tiny percentage of your AmazonSmile purchases to the charity of your choice, but if enough people in your community select your local animal shelter as their charitable recipient, it adds up!
While donations can’t add up to an immediate increase in the amount of space a shelter has, it frees up funds for buying food and medicine for treating animals (yes, some shelters have to balance their funds for food against funds for medical treatment). Above all, regular donations give shelters the ability to hire more help. It takes a lot more time to keep kennels clean when they are holding two and three dogs apiece than just one, and this alone translates into better health for the wards.
I wish I lived in a community with a low-cost spay/neuter clinic that I could support; I’d fund-raise for them year-round. I do believe that almost any cost for spay/neuter services is a barrier for many of the people in the relatively low-income community where I live.
On social media, I follow a rescue group in a nearby county – one that focuses on what they call “home to home” adoptions. They try to help people find qualified new homes for pets that people can’t keep (for whatever reason), by providing foster care, training, medical help, and grooming and then screening prospective new owners, so that the dog doesn’t end up in another home that might not work out. This keeps many dogs out of their local shelter – and also out of the arbitrary and often sketchy world of Craigslist rehoming. The fact that it’s a private organization, with no obligation to take on more dogs than they can handle, helps the group maintain financial stability (though I know that emotionally it can be hard to turn away needy dogs when the demand for placement is high).
What works best in your area for helping homeless dogs and overcrowded shelters? Any and all good ideas are welcome; you never know what solution might work perfectly for another shelter.
For years, I’ve told you what attributes to look for (and look out for) when choosing a food for your dogs. This often leads people to ask me what companies or products I like best, or what I feed my dogs. I’ve always declined to answer, because what’s right for my dogs (and time and budget), may not suit you or your dogs at all. But to heck with it: This year, I’m naming names – not the names of what I feed, but what foods and companies I admire the most, and what products I would point you toward if I accompanied you to the pet supply store (see “What’s the Best Dry Dog Food?”). Of course, you have to select what works best for your dogs – just like us, they can’t all eat the same thing and still thrive – but I hope it helps you understand how I use WDJ’s food selection criteria to narrow down the abundant options.
Speaking of the wealth of options: There are more than 1,100 good dog foods represented on our list of “Approved Dry Dog Foods for 2023,” which is available to subscribers only. This is a far cry from the couple-dozen products that met the same selection criteria when WDJ was launched 26 years ago. It’s a great thing to have so many healthy options today, even if it can be overwhelming.
Also in this issue: When I first read trainer Kathy Callahan’s article (“Don’t Bring Your Dog to Every Gathering!”), I immediately thought of something that happened shortly after I graduated from high school. My parents once threw a big country barbecue party. There was an entire pig cooking in a pit in a firepit, a band playing in a tent in the pasture, and hundreds of people all over the property. At the time, I had a Kelpie-mix named Tavi, who had the run of the place thanks to his training and usual good behavior. But late in the afternoon, I heard a bunch of people yelling and the unmistakable sound of a dog fight. I ran straight for the ruckus, where three or four people, including a family friend who was a professional musician, were trying to separate the combatants: Tavi and our next-door neighbor’s dog, who had gotten into our pasture somehow. In the melee, my musician friend got bitten – a redirected snap that punctured the back of his hand. This not only led to a trip to the emergency room, but several return visits to a doctor, because the bite (which got infected) damaged a nerve in my friend’s hand, and left him unable to play the guitar for about a year.
Talk about guilt; I feel terrible about it to this day. Why hadn’t I locked up my dog for the party? The answer is partly that I was young and dumb and confident in my dog’s training – but the real answer is that I had never heard of trigger-stacking. Read Kathy’s article, and avoid my mistake!
Chewing is natural for a dog, so we have to provide proper chew items. Otherwise, your dog is going to use whatever is handy, like the wood furniture. Credit Deborah Faulkner | Getty Images
Chewing on wood furniture is not uncommon for puppies. Even a few adult dogs will sometimes chew non-edible items, like wood furniture. The reasons why these dogs chew inappropriately are different, but the overall responsibility is the same, and it rests with us, as owners.
With puppies, chewing is primarily due to teething—chewing soothes those sore gums, just as it does for human babies. In contrast, adult dogs with painful teeth or gums don’t chew things—they may not even want to eat!—which would make a trip to the veterinarian in order.
However, dogs of all ages will chew due to stress, inactivity, or boredom. It’s up to us to solve those problems if we want furniture chewing to stop.
Why Do Puppies Chew?
In addition to teething, puppies chew to better explore the world. Remember that dogs use scent, sight, hearing, and taste to learn about things around them. Exploratory chewing will continue for most puppies and adolescent dogs through the age of 2. If you pass them an unfamiliar item with a novel texture, chances are they will take it and immediately lie down to chew it. It’s all part of growing up.
Why Do Adult Dogs Chew?
An adult dog who chews inappropriately is likely stressed, bored, or both. It’s your dog’s way of telling you that he needs more exercise and mental stimulation. Consider an adult dog who is well-housetrained and needs to relieve himself but no one’s home to let him out. Instead of making a mess, he may gnaw on a furniture leg to mitigate the stress of trying to “hold it.”
How to Stop a Dog from Chewing on Furniture
Chewing is natural, but if we don’t provide appropriate chew things, dogs will chew on what’s at hand. Avoid confusing your dog by allowing him to chew on household items like old throw rugs or shoes. He won’t know the difference next week when he decides to give those pretty, new sandals a taste.
To stop inappropriate chewing, you need to provide direction, oversight, and appropriate chews, like Kong toys, Orbee Tuff by Planet Dog, and the Zogoflex line of toys by West Paw. You can give large raw (never cooked) bones and some types of animal products, like rawhide. But be careful. For example, it doesn’t take a dog long to chew down a bully stick to a little piece that then gets stuck in his throat. (If you like to feed bully sticks, consider getting the Bow Wow Buddy.) All chewing must be supervised.
Spray Deterrents
While you can buy bitter-tasting deterrent sprays to halt your dog’s furniture appetite, they rarely work long, if at all. The solution is good management, which means keeping your dog or puppy exercised, providing proper chews and toys to alleviate boredom, and watching what your dog is doing.
Finally, if your dog does grab something you don’t want him to chew, taking it away from him will be a whole lot easier if you take the time to teach him the “trade game” before you need it. And guess what? Training new things is the perfect activity for you and your dog to do to help eliminate that boredom—and inappropriate chewing.
Dogs going on trains need to be in a carrier and not sneaking a look out. Your dog should be clean, a non-barker, and fit within the company’s size limitations. Credit: Yana Tikhonova | Getty
Yes, dogs are allowed on most trains—your small dog, anyway—but not all trains. And there are a lot of rules about dogs on trains. First and foremost, your dog must be clean (not smelly) and not disruptive, so he should not be a barker.
Remember that the most important consideration to any passenger train company is the comfort and safety of its customers, and rules are designed to ensure that. That’s why dogs and cats are the only pets allowed on trains—your bearded dragon will need to stay home.
Small dogs are allowed on Amtrak, the country’s largest passenger train, but the maximum combined weight of the dog and carrier is 20 pounds. You must provide the carrier, which must fit under your seat or the floor in front of you in some cases (ask when you make the reservation). The carrier can be a maximum of 19” long, 14” wide, and 10.5” high. It can be soft or hard but must be leakproof and well-ventilated. The dog must be able to sit and lie down without touching the sides of the carrier.
Your dog must be in the carrier at all times on the train and in the station. Dogs are only allowed on trips that are seven hours or less, and the dog cannot need attention during that time (meaning primarily feeding or a potty break).
Only five dogs are allowed on each train (not including certified service pets), and the Amtrak website recommends making a reservation for your dog. Amtrak can refuse any pet, and only one pet is allowed per customer. The fee is generally $29 to $39.
Your dog must be at least 8 weeks old, you will need to sign a release form certifying he’s fully vaccinated. Always have your dog’s picture, microchip information, and full vaccination records from your veterinarian with you.
Dogs are not allowed in some trains—and not at all on the Auto Train that runs from Virginia to Florida—and they are not allowed on trains going outside the United States.
While these are the most important regulations, there are others, and the rules can change. For Amtrak, call 800-USA-RAIL or go to Amtrak.com/home to find out more before you plan a train ride with your dog.
If your or someone in your home uses medical or recreational cannabis products, it’s critical to keep them where a dog cannot reach them. THC-containing “edibles” and vape cartridges are irresistible for some dogs, and both contain concentrated amounts of THC. But even “just” unconcentrated, unprocessed marijuana can severely affect a dog, as strains of the cannabis plant contain much more THC than in the past. Photo by Dusan Stankovic / Getty Images
Recreational marijuana has become legalized in 21 states and medical marijuana can be prescribed in 37 states. As marijuana becomes more widely available, people are looking for ways to partake of this drug without having to smoke it. This has created a market for marijuana “edibles,” also known as cannabis edibles.
Cannabis edibles are products that contain the psychoactive component of marijuana called delta-9 tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). A variety of products are available as cannabis edibles, including gummies and other candies, mints, chocolates and chocolate bars, beverages, potato chips, and baked goods such as brownies and cookies. Unfortunately, many of these sweet or savory options are also attractive to our dogs. While we may have more self-control regarding how many edibles we consume at one time, dogs are more likely to ingest an entire package of any edibles they can reach because they taste delicious.
Symptoms of THC Ingestion in Dogs
Ingestion of small to moderate amounts of THC may cause the following signs in dogs: listlessness, incoordination when walking, falling over when standing, dilated pupils, slow heart rate, dribbling urine, and an exaggerated response to light, touch, and sound. Dogs who have ingested large amounts of THC may have slow breathing, low blood pressure, and may exhibit seizures or become comatose.
What to Do If Your Dog Ate Cannabis Edibles
If you observe your dog ingesting cannabis edibles, take him to your veterinarian or the closest animal emergency or urgent care facility immediately. If the ingestion occurred within 30 minutes of arrival at the hospital and your dog is not showing clinical signs of THC ingestion, then the veterinary staff may induce vomiting.
If it has been more than 30 minutes since ingestion of the edible or your dog is showing signs of listlessness, then vomiting will likely not be induced. This is because THC has an anti-emetic effect; it can suppress vomiting. If your dog is already listless, causing your dog to vomit in this depressed state can lead to aspiration pneumonia. Activated charcoal may be administered to absorb THC and minimize the effect it has on your dog’s body. If the edible contains chocolate or xylitol, then additional treatments may be necessary.
What to Do if You’re Not Sure if Your Dog Ate a Cannabis Product
If your dog is exhibiting signs of THC ingestion, but you did not witness or find evidence of this, have your dog evaluated by a veterinarian immediately. Be honest about what you have in the home, including any products containing THC, prescription sedatives, vape cartridges (including nicotine), and illicit drugs. Children, seniors, and roommates living in the home may not always be forthcoming about what they are storing in their bedrooms, so be firm yet gentle when inquiring about the presence of these products. The veterinary staff wants only to help your dog. They are not interested in contacting authorities about anything illegal in your home.
The clinical signs of THC ingestion look similar to the signs associated with ingestion of other sedatives, nicotine, and antifreeze. There is an antidote for antifreeze ingestion and without this intervention, this toxicity is always fatal. Your veterinarian may want to complete additional testing to rule out other causes for your dog’s clinical signs so that the appropriate treatment plan is initiated.
Although there is a urine test for THC available for use in people, this test is not always accurate in dogs. Dogs metabolize THC differently than people, so there is a high rate of false negatives with this test. However, a positive test for THC is almost always compatible with THC ingestion.
If ingestion of THC is suspected and the potential source has been identified, the veterinary team may contact animal poison control for further guidance regarding treatment. There are a number of variables that can alter how THC affects your dog. These variables include how much was ingested, your dog’s weight and concurrent medical conditions, any medications or supplements your dog may be taking, how the THC was infused into the product, and if the edible contains chocolate or xylitol.
Brownies, chocolates, and chocolate bars containing THC add another dimension to your dog’s toxicity: ingestion of theobromine and caffeine. Both of these are contained in chocolate and are toxic to your dog. Just like with THC, the type of chocolate (such as dark or milk chocolate), the amount ingested and the weight of your dog dictate the danger level and recommended treatment. (See “What to Do If Your Dog Eats Chocolate.”)
Gummies, mints, other THC edible candies and even baked goods may contain xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is toxic to dogs. Even tiny doses of xylitol are toxic to dogs, so it is important to know if any edibles your dog may have consumed contain xylitol.
Treatment for Cannabis Ingestion
Most mild cases of THC ingestion can be treated successfully at home by keeping your dog in a safe, quiet room where he cannot fall down the stairs or be exposed to excessive light or sound. Moderate cases of THC ingestion may require hospitalization with intravenous fluids, monitoring of heart rate and blood pressure, and medications to support the cardiovascular system and treat neurologic signs. Ingestion of high doses of THC will require hospitalization and may necessitate the administration of intralipids. Intralipids bind to THC so that it can be excreted safely from the body.
Ingested THC is fat soluble and is readily stored in body fat. Therefore, it can take anywhere from 12 to 36 hours for your dog’s clinical signs to resolve after ingesting a cannabis edible.
If you use cannabis products, store them in a locked drawer or cabinet. Dogs are clever and some can open drawers and cabinets, but I have yet to meet one that can insert a key in a lock!
The coat type and quality of the new dog breeds that were created by crossing Poodles with dogs of other breeds vary quite a bit, even among individuals in a litter. Buying a Labradoodle is not a guarantee that the dog-allergic person in your family will not react to the dog. Photo by Natasha Sloss/ Getty Images
Coughing, wheezing, shortness of breath, or asthma.
Red, itchy, or watering eyes.
Skin rash, itching, or hives.
Dramatic symptoms pose the greatest challenge, but individual responses vary and some dogs are a comfortable match for some people with allergies. It may be possible to live with the dog of your choice without struggling with breathing problems, rashes, or itching.
What does “hypoallergenic” mean?
The term hypoallergenic, which does not have a legal definition, describes foods, cosmetics, fabrics, detergents, and products that do not contain known allergens, so they are unlikely to cause allergic reactions. Dogs with little or no hair, dogs whose coats require clipping or shaving, and dogs whos are not heavy shedders are often called hypoallergenic because they may be less likely than other dogs to generate problem proteins.
The proteins that cause allergic reactions come from:
Canine dander
Canine saliva
Canine urine
Dust mites, mold spores, pollens, and other allergens that cling to a dog’s hair
Dander, made up of flaky dead skin cells, is the main culprit because it floats through the air, collects on floors and furniture, and clings to clothing. Visible dander particles look like dust or dandruff, but many are microscopic and far too small to see. Some studies show that 90% of American homes contain detectable pet allergens, and pet allergen particles circulating in a home can remain active for months.
What breeds are a better choice for people with allergies?
Dogs who shed the least and are recommended for people with allergies include the American Hairless Terrier, Chinese Crested, and other hairless breeds, plus the Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Bedlington Terrier, Bichon Frise, Boston Terrier, Briard, Giant Schnauzer, Greyhound, Irish Water Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, Maltese, Poodle, Shih Tzu, Wire Fox Terrier, and Yorkshire Terrier. Their personalities, exercise needs, sizes, and training requirements vary, so focusing on low-shedding breeds is only one step in your finding-the-right-dog research project.
Which breeds are worse?
Dogs with heavy coats that collect dander and shed year-round are often blamed for allergic reactions. These “not recommended” breeds include the Basset Hound, Boxer, Cocker Spaniel, Dachshund, Dalmatian, Doberman Pinscher, German Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Pekingese, Pug, Saint Bernard, and Siberian Husky. Because dog saliva contains allergenic proteins, the Bloodhound, Bulldog, Great Dane, Mastiff, Newfoundland, and other enthusiastic droolers can cause further reactions.
So-Called “Hypoallergenic” Breeds
During the 1950s, two of America’s most popular breeds, the Poodle and Cocker Spaniel, were combined to create the Cockapoo. Cockapoos and subsequent Poodle crosses like Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, and Bernedoodles were soon promoted as ideal family dogs and a blessing for people with allergies. Now hundreds of combinations that used to be called mutts or mixed-breeds carry impressive price tags and hypoallergenic claims.
Just because a puppy has one low-shedding parent doesn’t mean it will inherit that trait, and even if it inherits the “right” coat, it can still cause allergic reactions. The only meaningful test for people with serious allergies is in-person exposure. This is why allergists recommend visits to animal shelters, breeders, and foster homes as well as trial adoptions to determine whether direct contact with a specific breed or specific dog will trigger allergy symptoms.
Housekeeping Advice for Dog-Allergic Dog Owners
There are many people who are allergic to dogs but love them too much to consider not sharing their home with one or more. Using extraordinary housekeeping techniques will reduce the accumulation and circulation of dog-source allergens in a home.
Use a professional pet dander removal cleaning service.
Install and maintain HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters.
Dust, damp-mop, and vacuum daily with a vacuum cleaner designed for pet hair.
Wash dog beds, blankets, toys, and dog garments using laundry products labeled hypoallergenic or fragrance-free.
Whenever needed, steam-clean carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture.
Create an “allergy-free” (meaning “dog-free”) zone to minimize dander in that part of the house.
Grooming Dogs Who Live With Allergic People
For families with allergies, no dog is maintenance-free. They all require daily brushing and frequent bathing. The more time your dog spends outdoors, the more you’ll be exposed to pollen, dust, mold spores, and allergenic debris from other dogs. Some allergic owners rely on professional groomers for routine clipping, shaving, bathing, or coat conditioning, which can be expensive. Hypoallergenic dog grooming involves equipment (brushes, combs, clippers, scissors, towels, and hair dryers), supplies (hypoallergenic dog shampoos, conditioners, or anti-dander products), and time. The time investment can be substantial, so be sure the necessary grooming routines are comfortable for you and your dog. At a minimum:
Brush your dog daily, preferably outdoors.
Wash your hands after grooming or touching your dog.
Place your clothes in the washer after grooming your dog.
Bathe your dog as often as needed to prevent dander using hypoallergenic shampoos and conditioners (dilute products before use and rinse thoroughly).
Many of the so-called hypoallergenic breeds have coats that require daily grooming and frequent clipping to prevent matting that is painful and unhealthy for the dog – and that can worsen an allergic owner’s allergies. A matted coat will collect allergens, and the dog’s skin, irritated by the pulling of the mats, will produce more dander. Photo by Fly View Productions / Getty Images
Your allergies may be only part of the problem. Your dog might have allergies, too. The most common symptoms of canine allergies are itching, scratching, and skin or coat dander, exactly what you don’t need more of!
Allergies usually appear in adult dogs, not puppies, and most dogs are between two and six years old when diagnosed. Common causes of allergic reactions include flea or mite bites, exposure to environmental or seasonal allergens, exposure to products that contain irritating or harmful ingredients, and reactions to certain foods. If you suspect that your dog has allergies, schedule an exam with your veterinarian to determine causes and treatments.
Anti-allergy dog blankets and bedding, which help repel mites and mold spores and which do not contain irritating chemicals, may help an itching dog.
What foods and supplements reduce dog dander?
Nutrition plays a key role in maintaining a healthy coat. A simple way to improve your dog’s diet and help decrease shedding and dander is by increasing the diet’s animal protein content (see “10 Healthy Additions to Your Dog’s Dry-Food Diet”). Foods and supplements that contain Omega-3 fatty acids, such as fish oils, can improve a dog’s skin. Digestive supplements that improve the assimilation of nutrients further reduce skin flaking and dander.
When it’s worth the effort
The 100% truly hypoallergenic dog is indeed a myth, but there is much dog lovers can do to make their pets less allergenic. Not everyone with allergies will find a perfect health-match companion, but by focusing on conditions they can control, many allergy sufferers live comfortably with the dogs they love.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
