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How to Choose a Dog Food: Factors to Consider

By
Nancy Kerns
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Many of our approved dry dog food selections are available in a "small bites" version, with the same ingredients and levels of fat and protein but manufactured with a smaller kibble size, for smaller dogs. Check the manufacturers' websites. Photo by Westend61/Getty Images

By applying the foregoing criteria, we’ve found a thousand or more good foods to choose from; their manufacturers appear on our “Approved Dry Dog Foods” list. But we know what you’re going to ask next: How do you choose a dog food for your dog?

The answer depends on what you’re feeding your dog now and what he looks and feels like. 

If he looks like a show dog (he’s at an appropriate weight and has a glossy, healthy coat and clean ears), he seems to feel good (he’s energetic without being hyperactive, he’s not itchy, and his appetite is good), and his poop is a good density (not too loose nor too hard), what you’re feeding him now is likely working just fine! Good job!

But if he’s too fat or too thin, his coat is without luster, he’s itchy and prone to ear infections, is constantly licking his paws or developing hot spots, lacks energy or is reactive and hyperactive, or has chronic diarrhea or constipation, then it’s time to change his food.

What you change it to depends on what changes you want to make in your dog and your dog’s needs.

  • If he’s overweight, you need to reduce the number of calories he receives; a food with less fat and higher-quality protein sources is in order. 
  • If he’s too thin and you haven’t been able to get him to gain weight, a food with higher amounts of fat and high-quality protein in order. 
  • If he’s itchy year-round, he likely has allergies. You need to conduct a food elimination trial, to try to determine what ingredients he may be allergic to, so you can avoid those ingredients. At the very least, select a “limited-ingredient” food, one that contains just one species of animal protein and as few other ingredients as possible. Make notes daily about your dog’s itching; is it more or less frequent when you feed him a chicken-based diet than when he’s on a lamb-based diet? 

Since most food allergies involve proteins, try to find a food that uses only one species of animal protein, and a single grain or carb source. Grains and legumes also contain protein, so these need to be considered as potential allergens as well. 

  • If he has digestive issues, he may need more fiber in his diet, or the right kind of fiber. Soluble fiber, found in oat bran, beans, lentils, chickpeas, and peas, slows things down in the digestive tract, helping relieve chronic diarrhea. Insoluble fiber, found in wheat bran, vegetables, quinoa, and whole grains, helps speed up the transit of food in the digestive tract and helps prevent constipation. 

Some food ingredients, including most legumes, contain both soluble and insoluble fiber. 

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Click here to see Whole Dog Journal’s 2023 list of approved dry dog foods.

Check out our favorite dry dog foods in a variety of categories

Two More Factors When Choosing the Best Dog Food for Your Dog

What if your dog is just fine – maybe not ready for a show ring, but without any notable problems, either. How should you select the best dry dog food in that case?

  • One obvious factor to consider is cost. Better-quality foods are considerably more expensive than low-quality foods. The size of your dog, and how many dogs you have, may affect your selection. 

Keep in mind that the most expensive food is not necessarily the best dog kibble. High sales prices don’t always reflect the quality of the food ingredients. Keep in mind that some pet food companies maintain large research facilities; others spend a huge amount on advertising and/or sponsorships of dog-related events.

 That said, we must warn you away from the lowest-cost foods. Most of them are more suitable for feeding birds than dogs.

  • Make sure to check the nutritional adequacy statement (better known as the AAFCO statement) on the label to make sure you are buying a food that’s formulated to meet your dog’s needs. It’s one of the most important bits of information about the food, and yet it’s almost always listed in very tiny print. 

The statement tells you which set of nutritional requirements the food meets: the standards for “growth” (puppies and pregnant or nursing females) or “adult maintenance.” Those two descriptions are sometimes referred to as “life-stage foods.” This is not to be confused with foods for dogs “of all life stages,” which means that the food has been formulated to meet the requirements of dogs of any age or life stage. 

Some companies also offer what they call “senior” foods, but there are not different standards for senior dogs; check the AAFCO statement to see if the food was formulated to meet the requirements for adult maintenance or all life stages. 

  • The energy density of the food – how many calories it contains – is something else to consider. Say you’ve been feeding a product with 300 calories per cup, and your dog, who’s at a healthy weight, gets two cups a day. If you switch to a food with 400 calories per cup, and you keep feeding him two cups a day, you will be giving him 200 more calories a day more than you were. He won’t stay at that ideal weight for long, unless you reduce the amount you feed, in this case, to a cup and a half. Will feeding him 25% less than you were previously leave him hungry and disgruntled, leading him to raid the cat food and counter-surf? He may be better off with a lower-calorie food. 

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Click here to see Whole Dog Journal’s 2023 list of approved dry dog foods.

‘Complete’ But Not Equivalent: Comparing Similar Dog Foods

By
Nancy Kerns
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Independent pet supply stores often have the best-informed, most helpful staff, who can help direct you to appropriate foods for your dog's needs. We suggest buying from independent stores whenever possible (but understand that not everyone lives in a town with one or more of these!)

Many people (and even many veterinarians) believe that all foods that are labeled as “complete and balanced” contain approximately the same amounts and levels of nutrients. This presumes that pet food makers are all working to meet some sort of “recommended daily allowance” (RDA) of nutrients required by dogs – but it’s not true.

The RDA nutrient levels for humans were developed by the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research Council/National Academy of Sciences. Vitamin, mineral, and macronutrient (fat, protein, carbohydrate) levels are expressed on our food packages as providing some percentage of the total amount of various nutrients that we need daily. But this isn’t how nutrient levels in pet foods are expressed.

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) establishes the nutrient levels that legally constitute “complete and balanced” diets for our pets, and publishes the requirements for canine diets in a table – the “AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.” 

But, unlike the human RDAs with target levels of nutrients, the Dog Food Nutrient Profiles consist only of minimum values for all the nutrients required by dogs and maximum values for just a few nutrients. As long as a food meets the minimum nutrient values expressed in the profiles, and doesn’t exceed the maximum values, it can be labeled as “complete and balanced.” 

Let’s say it another way: The foods on your pet store shelves may actually contain wildly varying levels of vitamins, minerals, and macronutrients, and yet all can call themselves “complete and balanced.” 

All of the chicken- and rice-based foods below are labeled as “complete and balanced” diets for adult dogs; each purportedly meets the minimum nutritional standards for the “maintenance” of adult dogs. But we can’t possibly consider these foods as equivalent. We’ve listed the first 10 ingredients from their labels so you can compare the formulas. We’ve also positioned them in order of decreasing quality – from first to worst – in our opinion and according to our selection criteria.

how to choose a dog food

 

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Whole Dog Journal’s 2023 Approved Dry Dog Foods

What’s the best dry dog food? Check out our favorites in a variety of dry dog food categories

Hallmarks of Quality: How We Identify Healthy Dog Foods

How to Find Healthy Dog Food: WDJ’s Dry Dog Food Selection Criteria

By
Nancy Kerns
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Finding healthy dog food can be challenging if you don't know what to look for.
Sometimes, when dog foods are on sale, it's a simple promotion. We suggest always checking the "best by" date on the package, though, to make sure the store isn't just trying to reduce stock that's getting close to its expiration.

Here’s what to look for in dog food and the criteria we use to identify good-quality dry dog foods.

1. Look for named animal protein sources at the top of the ingredients list.

Ingredients in pet food are listed in order of the weight of that ingredient in the formula, so whatever is at the top of the list is present in the food in the greatest amount.

We want to see animal protein sources, because animal proteins contain more of the amino acids that dogs need than plant-sourced proteins; the more completely a protein provides the amino acids that dogs need, the higher-quality that protein is considered to be.

We also want that animal protein source to be named – identified by species, whether it’s a meat, organ, or a meat meal (e.g., chicken, chicken liver, chicken meal).

When a fresh meat is first on the ingredient list, there should be a named animal-protein meal immediately or closely following the meat. Important note: When we use the phrase “meat meal,” we are always talking about a meal made from a named animal. If the ingredients list on a product label says “meat meal,” you have no idea what species of animal is in that meal. Only buy products with named meat meals – chicken meal, beef meal, pork meal, lamb meal, etc.

Meat meals are made through a process called rendering, whereby much of the moisture (and a lot of the fat) is removed from the meat. Meat meals are a highly concentrated source of protein. Pound for pound, meat meals provide much more protein at a lower cost than fresh meats. But fresh meats add appealing flavors and aromas to the food. Also, they get added to the food mixture just before the food is cooked; rendered meat meals have already been processed and will be twice-cooked by the time the food is extruded or baked (and some nutrients are depleted with each cooking process).

Fresh or frozen meat contains a lot of moisture (which is heavy), but not that much protein, so if meat is first on the list, it acts like a diluted protein source. That’s why we like to see another named source of animal protein appearing in the top two or three ingredients. We’re emphasizing animal proteins because some companies use fresh meats supported by plant proteins. To repeat ourselves, generally, plant proteins are less complete for dogs than animal proteins.

So, what’s best for healthy dog food: meat only, meat meal only, or both? We like both – but it depends on what works best for your dog and your budget.

2. Look for whole-food ingredients in dog food.

When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or carbohydrate sources such as chickpeas or sweet potatoes are used, they should be whole. Ingredients that have already been processed, shipped, and stored before they are used in dog kibble will have lost quite a bit of their nutritive value before they are mixed with other ingredients and processed again (mixed with other ingredients and then either baked or extruded, dried, and coated). 

3. Look for ingredients that are certified as organic, humanely raised, or sustainably farmed.

Companies will use wiggle words to lend the impression that they are using the best ingredients available. Certifications give these claims credibility in the best, healthy dog foods.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: See Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 list of approved dry dog foods.

For 2024, we’ve named the the best dry dog foods in a number of categories. Click here to see our selections.

Signs of Low-Quality Dog Food: Traits and Ingredients to Avoid

The following are traits that we don’t want to see on a dog food label – undesirable attributes that indicate a lower-quality dog food:

  • The lowest price you can find.

The cheapest foods contain the cheapest ingredients available to pet food manufacturers, and will not be healthy dog foods. While technically any food that’s labeled as “complete and balanced” is supposed to contain minimum amounts of the nutrients dogs need, with low-quality ingredients, there is no telling how bio-available the nutrients will be. 

  • Animal products that are not specified by species.

Meat meal, meat and bone meal, poultry meal, poultry by-product meal, animal fat, poultry fat: If you have a pet with a food intolerance or allergy, you have to know what you’re feeding him in order to identify the problematic ingredient.

  • Animal by-products.

This includes meat by-products and poultry by-products, as well as meat by-product meal and poultry by-product meal. These animal protein sources are nutritious, but are handled with far less care than more expensive animal protein sources (i.e., without refrigeration and with less sanitation).

We’d choose a food that contained meat by-products over one with meat by-product meal; the unrendered ingredients must be used for food production quickly, whereas the industry handles ingredients that are going to be rendered with less urgency. Also, again, all meals have been cooked once already and will be cooked again after being mixed with all the other food ingredients. 

  • Added sweeteners.

Like us, dogs like sweets. But they also like meat, especially fatty meats. When a food lacks enough meat to make it appealing to dogs, either because the food is carbohydrate-heavy or uses mostly plant-sourced proteins, sweeteners are often added to increase the food’s palatability. 

  • Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives (such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).

The color of the food doesn’t matter to your dog. And it should be flavored well enough with healthy meats and fats to be enticing. Natural preservatives, such as mixed tocopherols, are healthier than synthetic preservatives.

The one time we don’t mind seeing an artificial preservative is in foods that contain a lot of fish. Fish and fish meals are notoriously volatile; the fats in fish go rancid more quickly than other animal fats. Artificial preservatives repress the rancidity better and longer than natural preservatives. Pro tip: If buying a fish-based food, check the date-code on the bag and try to get the freshest food possible.

  • Ingredient splitting.

This is where two or more very similar food “fractions” appear separately on the ingredients list. A pet food manufacturer can use this technique to make it appear that a high-quality ingredient is represented in the food in a greater proportion than it really is. Remember, the food’s ingredients are listed in descending order of their weight on the label. By using several separate iterations of an ingredient and listing them separately, they will fall below the better ingredient on the ingredients list.

An example: A label lists chicken meal first on the label, followed by several fractions or versions of an ingredient as separate ingredients (i.e., rice, brewer’s rice, rice bran, rice protein meal). If all the iterations of the “rice” ingredients were combined or reconstituted, they would outweigh and push the chicken down on the ingredients list; it would now read rice first, then chicken.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: See Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 list of approved dry dog foods.

Best adult maintenance food, best puppy food, best budget food, best lower-fat food, and more.

Signs of Kidney Failure in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog drinking water
One of the first possible signs of kidney disease is your dog drinking an unusually large amount of water, although it could also indicate other diseases, like diabetes. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images

Signs of kidney disease in dogs may be subtle and easy to miss. They also are not  specific for renal (kidney) problems and can indicate other health issues, like diabetes, heatstroke, and liver disease.

The first symptoms of kidney disease in dogs are often only noted by an astute owner. You might notice that your chowhound is not cleaning up all his meals or even skipping a meal now and then. He may walk over to his bowl, drool a bit, and then walk away, which suggests nausea.

A solid symptom of kidney problems in a dog is having to fill the water bowl an extra time during the day because your dog is so thirsty. Of course, your dog is asking to go out every couple of hours instead of his normal four times a day or he is having accidents in the house. The urine may have a strong odor and a very dark color. You might even notice some blood. On top of all that, your dog may have lost his interest in playing and has dropped a few pounds.

Signs of Kidney Failure in Dog’s Mouth

When you brush your dog’s teeth, you may think his breath seems worse than usual. His gums are likely pale instead of their normal shade of pink. You might notice sores on his gums.

Some dogs will vomit occasionally and, although rarely, a dog may have diarrhea. Weakness in the rear, mimicking fatigue, may be noted.

As you may suspect, none of these signs are specific for kidney disease, but if more than one symptom is present, you should see your veterinarian. If possible, bring a fresh, clean urine sample and expect to have some bloodwork to be ordered.

Acute Kidney Failure in Dogs

The signs noted above are for chronic kidney disease that takes a while to become evident. If your dog has acute kidney failure, such as from a toxin exposure, he will be very sick, with vomiting, drinking large amount or almost no water, no appetite at all. Head right out to your veterinary clinic.

There is no cure for kidney disease, and it is a progressive disease. At the end stages, your dog drastically worsens with lethargy, weakness (possibly including the hind end), vomiting, and a lack of thirst and urination. As the kidneys fail, they no longer produce urine.

Senior Dog Is Losing Teeth

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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The human hands wearing blue sterile gloves, holding dachshund head, show to the camera dog teeth without one front tooth. Veterinarian in white coat checking animal dental health.
The loss of a tooth can be obvious if it’s a front tooth, but it can be more difficult to see if it’s farther back. Photo: Irena Meshcheryakova | Getty Images

Tooth loss in common in older dogs, and the primary cause is periodontal disease. That’s an infection of the tissues around a tooth, sometime also involving the gums. And, if the gums are bad, the teeth will lose their grip, too.

Obviously, you can’t do anything about the teeth your dog has already lost—well, you can, but it’s unlikely you want to pay for implants for your dog—but you can help prevent, or at least delay, further tooth loss with preventive care.

Daily brushing with a doggy toothpaste—never human toothpaste—is a great start. Many good dental products are available to help keep your dog’s teeth and mouth in good shape, including additives to food and water, appropriate chew items, and even special foods. The Veterinary Oral Health Council has a list of recommended products.

Infection

If your dog’s mouth is infected, it’s important to get that under control by seeing a veterinarian. Antibiotics with a probiotic chaser are usually prescribed. Your veterinarian may also recommend a professional cleaning.

If your senior dog is losing teeth, don’t panic. Dogs can handle the loss of many, if not all, teeth and still have good quality of life. Your dog will be healthier and happier if the diseased teeth are removed.

Help Eating

Often the first teeth to go are the small incisors in front. Most dogs never skip a beat and often owners never notice the loss. The loss of the large canine teeth can hinder a dog a bit in that it can be more difficult to pick up or carry items, but most dogs are resourceful and still manage, if it is something they want to carry. The loss of premolars and molars mean less chewing ability, but many dogs more or less gulp and swallow their food be it raw or kibble anyway.

If your senior has trouble chewing, add warm water to his meals, which is a good idea anyway as most senior dogs can use some help with hydration. Consider switching to softer, easy to swallow treats for training and rewards.

Best Age to Neuter a Male Dog

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Woman training Irish Wolfhound on a meadow
Allowing dogs to reach skeletal maturity before neutering results in healthier joints and structure, and this is especially true for the giant breeds, like the Irish Wolfhound. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

The best age to neuter a male dog has changed over the years. We used to think 6 months of age was just right. Turns out this may not have been the best idea, especially for large breed dogs. Historically, 6 months seemed reasonable as pups are done with their puppy shots by then, and they are at a nice, manageable size for surgery. It all seemed to make sense, but now we know a lot more.

Most veterinarians now recommend waiting to neuter male dogs after they reach full skeletal maturity, especially large breed males. Allowing these dogs to grow under the influence of their sex hormones means they grow more naturally, resulting in healthier joint angles and structure. They also grow stronger and less injury-prone tendons and ligaments. We have scientific proof that neutering a dog too early potentially makes him more prone to orthopedic problems like hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments in the knee.

Waiting for skeletal maturity sets up new age recommendations for neutering:

  • Small breed dogs: after 12 months of age
  • Medium to large breed dogs: after 18 months of age
  • Giant breed dogs: after 24 months of age

Some veterinary specialists contend that we shouldn’t neuter male dogs at all. Those of us who still support neutering male dogs are quick to point out the benefits of neutering, including pet population control and the prevention of testicular cancer, prostatic disease, tumors growing on or around the anus (perianal adenomas), and perineal hernias (breakdown of tissue surrounding the rectum). All these diseases are preventable by neutering your dog before he reaches middle age. That said, aggressive, intact male dogs should always be neutered, as testosterone has been linked to aggression. Removing the source of testosterone helps manage this dangerous behavior issue.

Training a Deaf Dog

By
Stephanie Colman
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deaf dog
Many dogs lose their hearing, partially or completely, when they get old. Training your dog to understand hand signals, particularly a marker that means “Yes!” such as a “thumbs up” signal, can immeasurably help a senior dog who has hearing loss understand that he’s still a very good dog. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Dogs are masters at noticing body language, which makes them great at learning hand signals. When it comes to training a deaf dog, hand signals are the name of the game.

Here are five things to keep in mind when working with a deaf dog:

  1. Attention is key. Teach your deaf dog to orient toward you using a variety of non-verbal cues. A tactile cue, such as gently tapping your dog on her side, a gestural cue like waving your hand in a distinct pattern or stomping your feet to create a vibration can all work well when your dog is within arm’s reach or otherwise close enough to perceive the cue.
Boys with hearing impairments signing pet in American sign language on their couch
If someone in your family uses American Sign Language, they will likely excel at training a deaf dog, as they are accustomed to giving and looking to receive eye contact before signaling their communication. Photo by Huntstock / Getty Images

To teach each of these cues, pair them with treats or the presentation of a favorite toy. Admittedly, using food is often the easiest but toys can work, especially with highly toy-motivated dogs. (If your dog is indifferent about food and toys, we recommend working with a skilled positive reinforcement trainer who can help you think outside the box when developing your training plan.)

Gently tap your dog, wave your hand when he can see you, or stomp your foot and immediately feed a treat or present the toy. Start when your dog is already paying attention and repeat often without distractions to keep the sequence super easy; then try it when your dog is mildly distracted and not looking at you. Your dog will learn that feeling the tap, seeing the wave, or feeling the distinct floor vibration of your attention-getting stomp means you’re about provide something he wants, which is a good reason to pay attention. A bonus of teaching a tactile cue is that it also helps desensitize your dog to unexpected touch, which reduces the natural startle reflex in other circumstances.

  1. Reward well for offered check-ins and teach an “all done” cue. With attention and eye contact being so important, be sure to notice and reward moments when your dog offers attention to help him understand keeping his eye on you is a good thing. When out walking your dog, remember to be present and don’t get lost in looking at your phone! At the same time, when you want your dog to settle and understand there won’t be any interaction for a while, teach an “all done” signal. We like the American Sign Language sign for “finished,” but any gesture can work if it’s consistently followed by the absence of interaction.
  2. Choose your hand signals. When teaching behaviors using a lure (often done using a treat in front of the dog’s nose), it’s easy to fade the treat and use the same physical gesture as a cue for the behavior. For example, if you first teach a dog to lie down by having her follow a treat in your hand from her nose to the ground, pointing from nose-level to the ground can become your “down” signal.

Teach a visual marker, such as a quick thumbs-up gesture or a flash from a small flashlight, to let your dog know when he’s been successful or is on the right track and a reward is on its way. (With hearing dogs, we often use a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!” or “Good!”) or the click of a clicker to indicate the dog has done what we want, just before we deliver the treat.)

  1. Consider using a vibration collar. A vibration-only collar can be a useful tool with some deaf dogs, especially when your dog is far away, has his back turned, or is otherwise distracted. A good use of the vibration collar is as a recall cue, where feeling the vibration means race to your person for something great!
flash marker
Some people use a flash from a tiny flashlight as a marker signal.

Begin by pairing the sight of the collar with something great – like a tasty treat. Then let the collar vibrate in your hand and feed treats as your dog investigates. Progress to holding the collar against your dog’s body as it vibrates, beginning at his shoulders and moving up to his neck. Each time the collar vibrates, feed a treat. Work this process slowly over a few days to really help your dog understand that vibration equals tasty treat. This will help build a positive conditioned emotional response (CER) in your dog’s mind: Vibration equals chicken. Chicken equals yum. Therefore, vibration also equals yum. Quick! Race to my person to get the yum!

You’ll know the positive CER is setting in when, once you put the collar on your dog and activate vibration, he immediately orients toward you with a hopeful expression in anticipation of a treat. Add distance and distractions slowly over time and your vibration turns into a recall cue. Be sure to pay generously each time to make sure it’s “worth it” for you dog to leave a distraction to come to you.

Keep in mind, some dogs, no matter how slowly you progress, will be worried about the vibration, in which case a vibrating collar is not the best tool. And no matter how great your deaf dog’s recall turns out to be, it’s best to stick to fenced-in spaces or use a long line when you want him to enjoy a bit more freedom. No dog’s recall is perfect and with one fewer sense to engage, it can be harder to round up a loose dog or track down a lost dog.

  1. Talk to your deaf dog! Your deaf dog may not be able to hear you, but the more natural you are in your behavior, the more natural your body language becomes, including your facial expressions. Breathe. Relax. Smile. She may not hear your words, but she’ll learn a lot through your facial expressions, unique body language, and behavior patterns as you build and strengthen your bond.

What would make you sign up for a dog-training class?

By
Nancy Kerns
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group dog training class
Taking a class to learn how to train your dog is a valuable investment into learning how to communicate better with each other.

I’ve paid to take group dog-training classes a number of times – even though I know how to and am even pretty good at training my own and other people’s dogs.

I have had slightly different reasons for wanting to take classes with each of my three dogs.

When I adopted Otto in June 2008, he was about 7 months old, but I signed up for some basic training classes to update my own timing and coordination skills so I could best communicate with my adolescent dog who had an uncertain origin. He had some quirks and fears and I wanted to make sure that I was doing everything right to gain his trust and want to work with me.

In later years, I signed us up for some agility classes; I thought I might try to take Otto to an agility competition someday, though we never did do that. Otto enjoyed the running around and negotiating the various obstacles, and he was so happy doing it, that it was sheer fun for me, too.

When I adopted Woody in January 2016, he was just a little pup, 9 or 10 weeks old. But I knew he was going to be a big, strong dog with a bully-breed look, and I wanted to make sure that I super-socialized him and trained him to be very compliant in any setting. I didn’t want people to judge him or be afraid of him based on his looks; I also wanted him to learn to behave well and pay attention to me when there were other dogs present. We took six-week Puppy 1 and then Puppy 2 courses, and later, also took some introductory agility courses.

Partly due to the limited class offerings because of Covid, and partly because I was hemming and hawing for months and months over whether to keep my youngest dog, Boone, whom I had started fostering when he was just about 6 or 8 weeks old, I never signed him up for puppy classes. When I finally got around to signing us up for an adolescent class, I was horrified to see how high-strung he was in class. He could focus on me very well, but it required some effort on his part. Instead of taking treats nicely like he can at home or when we are out walking, he lunged and grabbed for them in a frantic way that revealed his tension in the group-class setting. He needs a lot more practice and classes to learn to relax in a group setting.

Dog-training classes can be expensive, especially if they take place in a pleasant, spacious, climate-controlled location with safe footing. But classes are one thing I am always happy to pay for; I think of them as an investment in my relationship and good communication with my dogs, their good behavior anywhere I take them, and their own comfort and safety in public. I want them to be confident, secure, and well-mannered wherever we find ourselves, whether it’s a hotel we’ve had to stay in because we’ve been evacuated due to a wildfire or a friend’s home we’re visiting for the weekend. And I don’t want anyone dreading our arrival, worried about their carpets or cats or kids!

Classes are not just for puppies or problematic behavior

However, unless someone has a new puppy, or a dog with a vexing behavior that is causing problems for the human family, most dog owners don’t take dog-training classes! I wish there was some data about how many dog owners pay for any sort of dog training; I’m not aware of any organization that keeps these statistics (if you’re aware of some, please let me know!). My own experience is that very few people do.

And, given my job, I am often asked by friends or family about their dogs’ behavior issues – separation anxiety, reactivity on leash, pulling on leash, excessive barking, and so on. No matter what the question is, I always recommend consulting a local trainer and/or taking a basic training class. And nearly always, the response is, “No, we don’t need a class, it’s just this one problem we’re having.” But in my view, if my friends or family members knew even just a little bit more about training, not only would the problem behavior improve, their entire relationship with the dog would improve, too.

I think of a basic group training class as the equivalent of a high school speech class; it’s where you learn to communicate in a clear and effective way, instead of shouting nonsensically at others, arguing with people ineffectively, and failing to get your needs met. A single multiple-week course would help anyone get to know and understand their dog better and communicate with the dog better, which would likely help the dog understand what the heck is expected of him better, too – which would surely relieve some of the anxiety that’s likely driving some of his problematic behavior!

So many owners seem to have the expectation that their dogs should understand conversational English by the age of 4 or 5 months and somehow just know how to behave calmly in any setting. And most people manage to teach their dogs a few basics: sit (usually), come (sometimes), and walk on a leash (sort of). But if you ask the average dog owner how they would teach a dog to perform a specific skill on cue – and you made that skill something that the average dog owner does not expect their dog to know, say, pushing a ball with their nose into a soccer goal, or “waving” a front paw in the air – few people would know how to systematically shape that behavior using well-timed markers and rewards. In my opinion, once you’ve learned the basic steps to and mechanics of teaching a dog to perform any behavior on cue, you should be able to teach them any other behavior. And that’s what basic training classes are for!

Anyway, I’m curious about our readers: Have you taken any classes with your current dogs? If so, what classes did you take or are you taking? And if not, why haven’t you?

Folliculitis in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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Closeup the disease on cat skin, Dermatitis in dog, skin laminate and dog hair fallen
When individual hair follicles in the skin become infected, papules (raised bumps) and pustules (pus-filled bumps) may form on the skin. These may burst and become crusty. If left untreated, the infection can become worse and worse as the dog licks his skin in an effort to find relief. Photo by Elen11/Getty Images

Folliculitis is inflammation of the hair follicles. Inflammation is the body’s response to an injury or infection of some sort; when hair follicles become infected with bacteria, the body sends inflammatory cells to attack the bacteria and heal damaged tissue. In the case of foliliculitis in dogs, the original insult may have been caused by ectoparasites, a fungus, an underlying endocrine disorder, or trauma caused by the scratching and chewing that results from the itching of hypersensitivity (allergy). The condition is sometimes called superficial pyoderma; superficial refers to the hair follicles and the epidermis; pyo means pus and derma means skin.

Folliculitis can occur anywhere on a dog’s body, but is found most frequently in warm, moist areas of the dog’s skin, particularly where there is a skin fold, such as the dog’s lips, face, neck, vulva, and the base of the tail. The axillary region (or armpits as we know them on human bodies), groin region, and spaces between the toes are also prime locations for developing folliculitis.

This case is mild, but the presence of even just one epidermal collarette indicates an infected follicle. It’s a good idea to take your dog to the vet to determine the cause of the insult to the skin and treat it before it worsens. Photo by Jennifer Bailey, DVM

Bacterial folliculitis begins as small, flat red circles on your dog’s skin called macules. As the condition progresses, the macules become raised bumps called papules. Papules may fill with pus, creating a small white dot in the middle of the raised red circle. When pus fills a papule on a dog, it is called a pustule; in humans, we’d call this a pimple.

Folliculitis is pruritic (itchy) and you may notice your dog scratching or licking at these lesions. Scratching or licking at papules and pustules causes them to rupture and release clear fluid from papules and pus from pustules. When that clear fluid and pus dries, the papules and pustules become covered with a crust. If your dog continues licking and scratching at these crusty red circles, the circles get bigger and develop scales or flakes along the edge. These are called epidermal collarettes.

Pyoderma

There are three types of pyoderma: surface, superficial, and deep.

  • Surface pyoderma is an infection on the skin surface. “Hot spots” – those small, red, itchy patches that tend to appear on the neck, face, and rump near the tail during the hot, humid months of summer – are examples of surface pyoderma.
  • Superficial pyoderma is an infection of the epidermis (the top layers of skin) and the hair follicles. Folliculitis is an infection of the hair follicles and the superficial skin.
  • Deep pyoderma is an infection that extends into the dermis, or the deep layer of the skin.

General Treatment of Folliculitis in Dogs

Treatment of folliculitis may include a medicated shampoo to reduce the bacterial population on the skin and ease the pruritus and discomfort. Treatment will also likely include an oral antibiotic. A dog will typically need to be on an oral antibiotic until one week after all of his symptoms resolve. This may take as little as two weeks but usually requires four to six weeks of therapy.

Folliculitis in Dogs Causes and Targeted Treatment

A bacterial infection of the skin and hair follicles is almost always secondary to one of many potential problems with the skin. Successful treatment of folliculitis will depend on its original cause. These most common precipitating conditions include:

Demodicosis

This is caused by a mite called Demodex, which live in the hair follicles and sebaceous glands of your dog’s skin. They are a commensal mite; they live on and benefit from your dog without causing your dog harm. Demodex mites can cause a dog to become itchy when their populations suddenly increase. (When the equilibrium between the Demodex mites and the skin microenvironment becomes unbalanced, and the mite population explodes, they are then considered a parasite, rather than a commensal.)

Puppies are more prone to developing pruritus caused by the Demodex mite because of their young age. Adult dogs can also develop demodicosis but there is often an underlying immunocompromising condition that allows the Demodex mite to proliferate. Demodex mites are not contagious to other dogs.

Your veterinarian may want to complete a skin scrape test to look for Demodex mites. There are several treatments for demodicosis. The only FDA-approved medication for demodicosis is a dip treatment called amitraz (brand name Mitaban). There are side effects to using amitraz and the odor of the dip is quite noxious. Other treatments for demodicosis are not FDA-approved for this purpose but have shown good efficacy in treating the condition. These treatments include ivermectin (an oral medication), milbemycin (found in several heartworm preventatives), moxidectin (found in some topical flea preventatives), and the fluralaner class of drugs (found in several oral flea/tick preventatives). Discuss with your veterinarian which treatment option is best for you and your dog.

Ectoparasites (skin parasites)

Skin parasites include mites and lice that do not belong on your dog. They include:

  • The Sarcoptes scabiei mite is the cause of sarcoptic mange, aka scabies. This mite burrows into your dog’s skin and lays eggs in the tunnels they create. Dogs have an allergic reaction to the poop that mites leave behind in the skin tunnels, causing the dog to become extremely itchy.
  • Cheyletiella yasguri (the cause of cheyletiellosis) is a white mite that lives on the surface of a dog’s skin. Dogs infected with Cheyletiella have dandruff that looks like it is moving. This infection is often called “walking dandruff.”
  • Trombiculidae, better known as “chiggers,” are tiny, orange-red mites that attach to a dog’s skin to feed for a few days before detaching.

The treatment for all three of these mites is similar and include amitraz and lime-sulfur topical dips, ivermectin (an oral medication), moxidectin and selamectin (found in some topical flea preventatives), and the fluralaner class of drugs (found in several oral flea/tick preventatives). Moxidectin and selamectin are FDA-approved for treating sarcoptes mange but have been found effective at treating walking dandruff and chiggers. The fluralaner class of drug is not FDA-approved for any of these mites but has been found to be effective. All three mites are zoonotic – they can be transmitted between animals and humans.

  • Ear mites. Otodectes cynotis are a species of mite that live in the dog’s ear canal (and thus are commonly just called ear mites). Sometimes ear mites will crawl out of the ear and reside in the skin around the ear and the face and neck, causing itchiness in those regions. Ear mites are primarily transmitted through close contact with another animal that has ear mites. Topical ear medications that contain milbemycin and flea preventatives that contains selamectin are effective treatments for ear mites. Ear mites can be transmitted between species of animals (like dogs, cats, and ferrets) but do not typically infect humans.
  • There are three species of lice that can infect dogs. One species is a sucking louse that attaches to a dog’s skin. The other two species are chewing lice that eat dead skin flakes, fur, and skin secretions. Lice glue their eggs to the shafts of fur – these little white or clear eggs are known as nits. Lice tend to be species-specific – they prefer the host for whom they developed. Effective treatments for lice in dogs include topical flea preventatives that contain selamectin, imidacloprid, or fipronil.
  • Ringworm. Dermatophytosis This fungal infection is best known by its common name. Ringworm is not a worm, but got its name because the skin lesions sometimes look like a raised squiggly ring that resembles a worm under the skin. Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from contaminated soil or from another infected animal or human.

Your veterinarian may want to examine your dog’s skin lesions with a special kind of light called a Wood’s lamp. One species of fungus that causes dermatophytosis will often glow the color of a green apple under a Wood’s lamp. Since not all fungal species that cause dermatophytosis will glow under a Wood’s lamp, a fungal culture may be necessary to confirm the diagnosis. Your veterinarian will brush the affected areas of skin with a new, previously unopened toothbrush to collect a sample. The sample is added to fungal culture medium and observed for 14 to 21 days for fungal growth.

Dermatophytosis is often treated with a combination of oral medication and topical ointment, shampoo, or dip. It is a zoonotic illness – this means it can be transmitted between animals and humans. Follow your veterinarian’s directions for safe handling of your dog while treating dermatophytosis and for how to clean the home.

Endocrine disorders

Hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism are two endocrine disorders that can be triggers for bacterial folliculitis.

  • Hypothyroidism is caused by a decreased production of thyroid hormone by the thyroid gland. Thyroid hormone plays a major role in many body systems, including the skin. Dogs with hypothyroidism may have dry, flaky skin and have a slow regrowth of fur. Fur naturally falls out over time, but when new fur is slow to grow, a dog with hypothyroidism may develop alopecia over certain areas of his or her body. The dry, flaky skin can sometimes facilitate the development of bacterial folliculitis. If your dog is also showing signs of lethargy and weight gain despite a decreased appetite, your veterinarian may order a full thyroid panel to screen for hypothyroidism. This disorder is treated with a daily medication called levothyroxine to replace missing thyroid hormone.
  • Hyperadrenocorticism (also known as Cushing’s disease) is caused by an increased production of cortisol by the adrenal glands. Cortisol is a steroid hormone that also plays a major role in many body systems. Too much cortisol can cause changes to a dog’s skin that can contribute to the development of chronic and recurrent bacterial folliculitis. Other signs that your dog may have Cushing’s disease include drinking more water and urinating more than usual, having an increased appetite, symmetrical alopecia, panting for no apparent reason, or having a pot-bellied appearance. Your veterinarian may order a screening test and then one of two diagnostic tests for hyperadrenocorticism. This disorder is treated with a daily medication called trilostane to reduce the amount of cortisol the adrenal glands produce.
  • Canine atopic dermatitis Another cause of bacterial folliculitis is canine atopic dermatitis (CAD). This is a diagnosis of exclusion – other causes of bacterial folliculitis are first investigated, treated, or ruled out before concluding that a dog has atopic dermatitis. It is caused by hypersensitivities to a combination of contact, inhaled, and/or food allergens.

There are several treatment options for CAD. Some of these treatment options – like Apoquel and Cytopoint – target a process in the body called the itch cascade. The itch cascade is a series of reactions that begins when a dog is exposed to an allergen. This series of reactions ends with the dog feeling itchy and licking or scratching at whatever is pruritic. When the itch cascade is interrupted, the dog does not reach the stage of feeling itchy.

Medications that modulate the immune system’s response to allergens – such as prednisone and Atopica (modified cyclosporine) – are another treatment option for CAD. There are potential side effects for both of these medications. Baseline bloodwork and periodic monitoring may be necessary when using prednisone or cyclosporine.

A prescription diet that addresses sensitive skin or food hypersensitivities may also be beneficial. Dogs who do not have known food hypersensitivities may benefit from a diet that promotes a healthy skin barrier and flora. This type of diet is available from both Hills and Royal Canin and can be ordered through your dog’s veterinarian.

Dogs with known food hypersensitivities may benefit from a limited ingredient, novel protein diet. Hills, Royal Canin, and Purina all have specially formulated diets that meet these criteria. Unlike limited ingredient diets that are available to purchase without a prescription, these diets are produced separately from other diets to eliminate cross-contamination with proteins that may cause an allergic reaction.

Dogs with CAD are more likely to be allergic to fleas. This condition is known as flea allergy dermatitis. Dogs with flea allergy dermatitis become itchy when a flea bites his or her skin. Using a high-quality flea preventative as directed will help to minimize the role that fleas play in CAD.

Immunotherapy is another treatment option for CAD. This involves exposing a dog to low doses of allergens to retrain how their immune system responds to exposure to those allergens. Testing is completed to determine what a dog is allergic to and how severe their response is to those allergens. Allergy testing can be completed by a blood test or by an intradermal skin test. An immunotherapy serum is created specifically for each individual dog and can be given by injection weekly or by mouth daily. Immunotherapy is continued for at least a year and sometimes longer to achieve a positive effect.

Proper diagnosis necessary

No matter what the precipitating cause, folliculitis can become serious if left untreated. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and appropriate treatment.

Food for Dogs with Liver Disease

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Preparing natural food for pets
It’s possible to make a homemade diet for dogs with liver disease, but get a recipe from a qualified veterinary nutritionist. The free ones on the internet are often not adequate or nutritionally balanced. Credit: humonia / Getty Images

Because the liver is intimately associated with digestion, feeding the proper diet to a dog with liver disease is an important part of his treatment. Your dog needs the right nutrients for good health, while minimizing the liver’s work in toxin clearance. The dog’s food must be highly digestible.

Protein is always the No. 1 in consideration when feeding a dog with liver disease. Your dog will need adequate protein for a dog with liver disease, with proper amounts and balances of essential amino acids. Eggs are often included, but too much protein can contribute to hepatic encephalopathy (a neurologic disease brought on by liver disease), which can be fatal. There’s a lot to consider when choosing liver disease dog food.

Homemade Liver Disease Dog Food

Many people want to do homemade dog food or a raw diet for liver disease, and that’s fine, but you should contact a veterinary nutritionist. Veterinarians and other experts in animal nutrition can provide you with balanced and complete recipes for your dog. Be wary of homemade recipes posted for free on websites and forums. You pretty much get what you pay for. Don’t take the risk.

Nutrients for Liver Disease Dog Food

Depending on the stage of your dog’s liver problem, limiting overall protein may be recommended. The amount of fat in the diet will be adjusted as well.

Dogs with liver problems may be deficit in some vitamins, especially the fat-soluble ones such as vitamins A, D, K and E. Adequate B vitamins are also important. A supplement might be in order but discuss this with your veterinarian.

If your dog has copper toxicosis, the mineral content of his diet has to be monitored very carefully. Phosphorus needs to be monitored as well.

Choosing the right diet for a dog with liver disease depends upon the cause of your dog’s liver problem and the stage. A diet will then be customized to your dog. This might be a prescription diet from your veterinarian. If your dog doesn’t like the prescribed diet, try again. Many different formulations and flavors are available from several companies. And you can usually get canned or dry. There is almost always a diet to fit your dog’s needs that he likes.

Can Dogs Eat Cabbage?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dogs can eat cabbage, and it has some health benefits.
Dogs can eat cabbage, raw or cooked, but it should be fed in small amounts, like as an occasional treat. Be aware cabbage can increase flatulence in dogs. Credit: Boris Zhitkov / Getty Images.

Cabbage can provide some fiber and lots of vitamins and minerals. It has plenty of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium, magnesium, and beta carotene (a precursor of vitamin A). As is true of many vegetables, it also has plenty of antioxidants. Plus, many dogs enjoy crunching on small pieces of cabbage.

Dogs can eat raw cabbage, but that should be fed in relatively small amounts. Both red and green cabbage are acceptable. The fiber in cabbage can help with both constipation and diarrhea, but too much, especially raw, may cause some constipation.

Dogs can have cooked cabbage too, but if you decide to cook some cabbage for your dog, note that cabbage cooked for dogs should be plain. The added spices, butter, and other things that you enjoy are often not good for your dog.

Feeding cabbage to dogs does have some drawbacks. Cabbage is well known for flatulence. If your dog is already a bit of a social outcast for his flatulence, adding cabbage will only makes things worse. In addition, excessive gas production in the gastrointestinal tract may contribute to bloat or gastric dilatation/volvulus, commonly termed “GDV.”

You should be aware that feeding cabbage adds thiocyanate to your dog’s diet. This compound can have adverse effects on the thyroid gland, so dogs who are already hypothyroid ought to skip their cabbage snack.

Cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable, like broccoli and cauliflower, which means it adds calcium oxalate to your dog’s diet. If your dog is a one of the breeds or mixes that are prone to forming calcium oxalate stones or crystals in his urine, he is better off skipping all those vegetables. Affected breeds include Bichons, Miniature Schnauzers, Lhasa Apsos, Yorkshire Terriers, and Shih Tzus.

Bottom line: Small amounts of cabbage are fine for most dogs but consider using it as an occasional treat.

Rainy Day Activities for Your Dog

By
Nancy Kerns
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13
dog chewing bone
These straight leg bones with marrow in them have been the best time-consuming tools for my dogs. They can't quite reach the marrow in the very center of the long bones but they take a lot of time trying.

You will not catch me, a native of drought-ridden northern California, complaining about how many days of rain, we have had, no ma’am, nor about how many days of rain that we are being told are on the horizon. I say, BRING IT.

My year-old dog Boone, however, disagrees. He is bored, bored, boooored.

It hasn’t helped that both my husband and I have been sick with some sort of virus for what feels like weeks, and so I have only taken the dogs off the property for a proper walk only a couple times in the past few weeks.

Here’s what I’ve been doing to try to keep the adolescent dog (especially) entertained:

  • Providing bones to chew. I recently found a local butcher who would take an order for the best kind of marrow bones – the leg bones that have been cut off cleanly at the ends. I’ve bought other bones from the butcher, but many of them come with either sharp edges or material that my aggressive chewers can just too easily chew off and swallow in chunks. The leg bones keep them occupied for long periods and have been a lifesaver (for me!) for the past few weeks.
  • Providing cardboard boxes to destroy. Neither of my adult dogs chew cardboard, but Boone loves a big box. It can take him hours to shred a big Chewy box down to a pile of little scraps, and he’s happy to do it. I now save random boxes for him to tear up when I need an hour or so of uninterrupted time. Yes, it’s a mess, but if I keep the activity confined to my office, it cleans up pretty quickly.
dog shredding cardboard
Fortunately, Boone doesn’t have any interest in consuming the cardboard, or this wouldn’t be such a great time-consuming activity for him. He will shred and shred for an hour quite happily.
  • Food puzzles and food-spilling toys. I have to separate the dogs to employ these, so as great as they are for occupying the dogs, it takes a bit of management work to give everyone a turn, so these have not been high on my list, even though the dogs love them. Food-stuffed and frozen Kongs work more like bones; I can hand them out all around and everyone is happy for a while. But they don’t take much brain-power or reduce the dogs’ energy much.
dog with treat puzzle toy
Toys like this are a great way to tire out a dog mentally, but they require individual set-up and supervision. If I had just one dog, I would likely feed him his ration in this type of toy. It would take several refills to hold each meal!

What do you do with your dogs when they are super bored?

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