The best canine candidates for joining you as you dine al fresco are calm, relaxed characters who won’t leap to their feet every time a server approaches the table, or try to socialize with other dogs or people. Photo by RossHelen, Getty Images.
Americans are increasingly bringing their dogs with them when they go places, and to take advantage of this trend, many national chain restaurants have become known for welcoming dogs to join their humans for meals in their outdoor dining areas. Some even have special menus for dogs, or serve complementary treats or appetizers designed just for dogs.
The list of national-chain restaurants with dog-friendly outdoor dining areas grows longer all the time, but includes:
Applebee’s
Baja Fresh
Bruster’s Real Ice Cream
Cracker Barrel
Dairy Queen
Dunkin’ Donuts
In-N-Out Burger
Joe’s Crab Shack
Johnny Rockets
Lazy Dog Restaurant and Bar
Le Madeline
Noah’s New York Bagels
Olive Garden
Outback Steakhouse
Panera Bread
Shake Shack
Sonic Drive-in
Sprinkles Cupcakes
Starbucks
In addition to national chains, many local restaurants invite well-behaved dogs and offer amenities such as clean water bowls for their canine customers.
Is your dog restaurant-ready?
Sounds like fun, yes? But first, consider your dog. No matter how welcoming a restaurant, it won’t be a pleasant meal if you’ve brought the wrong date. If your pup is noisy, easily startled, unable to settle down, uncomfortable around other dogs, or needs constant supervision, make other arrangements. Your best canine dining companion is polite, quiet, relaxed, travels well, and responds appropriately to cues such as sit, down, stay, and leave it.
Most dog-friendly establishments are casual, informal, and spacious rather than crowded. To avoid last-minute disappointments, call ahead to verify the establishment’s pet policy in case it doesn’t match a recommendation or website description.
Bring a friend if you can, someone who understands dogs and can assist as needed. Try to visit early or late, when the restaurant isn’t busy, to minimize distractions. Park a comfortable distance away so that you can take your dog for a walk before entering and have pick-up bags ready to clean up after your dog. Use a well-fitting harness and short leash, not a retractable leash. Ask or look for a table that’s in a corner or out of the way. Even if your dog is well-behaved around small children, aim for a table near quiet adults rather than young ones whose excitement and interest may stress your pup.
Bring a mat for your dog to lie on plus a portable water bowl. To help your dog relax around food distractions, consider feeding her before leaving home, and bring treats. Have your dog sit or lie on the floor or ground, not in a chair, on the table, on your lap, or where he’s in the way of serving staff or other diners or where he might have his tail stepped on. Once seated, hold onto your dog’s leash by looping it around your wrist or use a hands-free leash that attaches to your belt. Don’t tie the leash to a chair, table leg, or gate that could get pulled over and cause mayhem if your dog spots a pigeon walking around the other outdoor tables. Last, don’t let your dog eat off of your plate, and don’t feed anyone else’s dog.
In other words, use common sense and good manners to ensure that you, your friend, your dog, and the diners around you all enjoy yourselves.
No matter how good your deaf dog’s training goes, it’s still important to take all measures to keep him safe. Credit: Sonya Kate Wilson | Getty Images
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If you have dog who is losing his hearing, you may wonder if a hearing aid would help. Right now, dog hearing aids must be custom fit for each dog, to the tune of $3,000 or more. The FETCHLab at the University of Cincinnati is one place where you can have a hearing aid made for your dog.
Your dog will need to be trained to wear the hearing aid, and adjustments may be necessary for both fit and settings. Also, hearing aids also will not work for dogs who have lost all hearing. This is because all hearing aids amplify hearing, but with congenital deafness there is no residual hearing left to amplify.
Collars that vibrate, called a vibration collar, can be useful a useful tool for training deaf dogs. This is not a shock collar, which we do not approve of using, and it should never be used as a correction collar. If you look at vibration collars, avoid any brands that are also capable of delivering a shock.
Whole Dog Journal Contributing Editor Pat Miller used two different vibration collars on her dogs to see how they worked, saying, that a vibration collar is “certainly something I recommend to owners of deaf dogs as a useful communication tool.” Of the two, she found the less expensive Wolfhill collar the better choice.
Deaf-Dog Care
For most dogs, management strategies are a simpler and less expensive way to handle a dog who cannot hear well.
These 10 management and training strategies may help our dog cope with hearing loss:
Start teaching hand signals for common skills and behaviors as soon as you notice signs of hearing loss. This will allow you to communicate with your dog visually.
Teach your dog to come inside from the yard or look at you when you blink the lights.
With the help of a trainer, introduce a vibrating deaf dog collar so you can get your dog’s attention at a distance.
Keep your dog on leash or in a fenced yard, as he won’t be able to hear approaching cars.
Stomp your feet when approaching your dog from behind so he can feel the vibrations of your approach and won’t startle.
Start teaching hand signals for common skills and behaviors as soon as you notice signs of hearing loss. This will allow you to communicate with your dog visually.
Teach your dog to come inside from the yard or look at you when you blink the lights.
With the help of a trainer, introduce a vibrating deaf dog collar so you can get your dog’s attention at a distance.
Keep your dog on leash or in a fenced yard, as he won’t be able to hear approaching cars.
Stomp your feet when approaching your dog from behind so he can feel the vibrations of your approach and won’t startle.
Is My Dog Losing Hearing?
Signs of hearing loss include:
Not meeting you at the door when you get home
Slow to respond to verbal cues
Not coming when called
Startling when approached from behind
Difficult to wake up
Hearing loss can be loosely split into two categories: congenital deafness and acquired hearing loss.
Congenital deafness is when your puppy is born deaf due to a genetic defect. Dogs with a lot of white on their heads, particularly if both parents are merles, are more likely to be born deaf. Deafness can often be noticed by 3 to 4 weeks of age by an astute observer, as these puppies won’t respond to loud noises or react to their siblings squealing. These dogs have no trouble navigating their silent world, as it is the only one they’ve ever known.
Acquired hearing loss is when your dog loses hearing later in life due to an injury, illness, or age-related changes. These dogs usually have progressive hearing loss, with subtle changes at first that gradually become more obvious.
We asked WDJ’s contributors for their recommendations for “things they can’t imagine living without” in their dog-care kits – their favorite dog toys, training tools, and treats. Here are some of the products that made their lists of things that they must have for their dogs.
Whole Dog Journal Contributor's Choice
MIGHTY PAW SMART BELL 2.0
The Mighty Paw light provides both light and audibles alerts. Credit: Nancy Kerns
Price: $30
When I adopted a young Beagle from a lab, I knew that I was in for a potty training challenge. Cienna spent the first eight months of her life peeing indoors. It was immediately apparent that when not crated, she had no concept of “holding it” or going to a particular location to relieve herself. She would happily squat wherever she was as soon as she felt the urge. Her last potty could have been three hours or five minutes prior, it didn’t matter. There was no schedule and she had no care in the world.
Even after acclimating her to the outdoors, treating her every time she happened to potty outside, and designating a potty spot that she used (on cue!) as soon as we got outside, she displayed no natural indicators of needing to go out. So I taught her to lay down to ask for things, and she started laying down at the door when she needed to potty! This was a huge breakthrough for her. The problem was, our front door was out of sight, and if we didn’t notice her heading to the door, she would have an accident.
I needed to teach her how to communicate in a way that was glaringly obvious to us. The Mighty Paw Smart Bell was the solution. This device has two parts: an oversized “activator” that your dog will touch and a receiver with a flashing light and a speaker that plays tones or songs (there are 38 tone/song options and four volume settings) when the button is touched. Instead of something that makes noise near the door (like bells hanging on the door), you plug the receiver into a regular wall outlet where you are most likely to hear it; it can be as far as 1,000 feet from the activator/transmitter button!
In five repetitions, Cienna learned to hit the activator successfully. Within five minutes, she learned to touch it when we were out of sight. As soon as she demonstrated the ability to do this, we had a system. Every time she hit the activator button, I would grab high-value treats from the fridge and take her straight out to her potty spot. After she relieved herself, she got the special goods. By the next day, she was using the button for this purpose regularly.
With the built-in adhesive on the activator, you can stick it on the floor so your dog can hit it with her paw, or stick it to a wall or door so she can boop it with her nose; it’s easy to depress from any angle. Sound-sensitive dogs will appreciate having the speaker separate from the activator – and hearing-impaired owners will appreciate the flashing-light feature. You can buy additional activator buttons if your want your dog to be able to alert you from more than one door – and additional receivers, too! There’s no limit as to how many activators or receivers can be synced together. I can’t recommend this device highly enough. The Mighty Paw Smart Bell saved my sanity – and my floors!
Seadent is an oral supplement that freshens breath and encourages canine dental health. Credit: Animal Essentials
Price: $18
It’s a challenge to keep our dogs’ breath sweet, teeth strong, and gums healthy, but these two products affect the oral microbiome, improving the dog’s ability to fight plaque and bacteria in the mouth without using disinfecting chemicals.
Animal Essentials SeaDent is an oral supplement that helps improve a dog’s breath and prevent dental problems. Its five plant enzymes, including lysozyme, combine with Norwegian kelp (Laminaria digitata) to control plaque and tartar, thus reducing the risk of gum disease. SeaDent’s digestive and antibacterial enzymes remove plaque by breaking down food particles trapped between teeth and under the gum lines. SeaDent powder is sprinkled onto the dog’s food once or twice per day. A 70-gram jar can last a small dog several months.
Added to a dogs drinking water Protektin42 encourages dental and gum health in dogs. Credit: Teef for Life
Price: $27 FOR 30 SERVINGS
Protektin42, a dental probiotic for dogs, was invented by a microbiologist after she almost lost her dog to a blood infection caused by periodontal disease. Added in small amounts to a dog’s drinking water, Protektin42’s beneficial bacteria slow the growth of pathogens above and below the gum line. The dental kit for dogs can be ordered with powder packets for 30, 60, or 90 servings, with refills available for storing in the kit’s glass jar. A sodium-free kidney-care version is also available.
Grayson staying cozy in his Voyagers K9 Winter Coat. Photo by Lauren Novack
Price: $101 – $207
I grew up with Irish Setters in Buffalo, New York, a place famous for its long, cold, snowy winters. As a born and raised Western New Yorker, I’ve always been used to bundling up to go outside. But coats on dogs? Totally unnecessary. That was for frou-frou owners who treated their dogs like babies.
Then as an adult in NYC I adopted Grayson, a mixed-breed dog with a short coat who started shivering when it hit 40 degrees. Well, that would not do. I now had to walk a dog who wore a coat, but I couldn’t find anything that fit him. If he was going to wear clothes, I needed it to cover his whole body and provide actual warmth! He was long and thin, so most of what I tried on him went only halfway down his back, and putting his paws through tiny little arm holes was frankly a huge pain in the you know what.
Then I found Voyagers K9 Apparel. Voyagers makes breed-specific dog coats and custom fit made-to-measure coats. They are well designed, requiring no finagling to get on your pup. The coat goes over the dog’s head and two straps hug the belly and Velcro to the opposite side. No paw handling necessary. If your pup wears a harness, Voyagers can put an opening at the top for your leash attachment.
There’s a fleece turtleneck that can come up over the dog’s ears on extra cold days. The inner shell is fleece-lined, and the outer shell is waterproof. And because you measure your pup before you order one (neck, back length, and chest), it actually fits and keeps them warm. And, they are machine-washable! It’s truly the best dog coat I have ever found, and I tell as many people as I can to get one.
My dog’s coat outlived him. It was still as good as new on the day that he passed. I don’t know what to do with it. It was made for him and kept him warm and happy on so many of our best adventures. I can still picture him wearing his coat and sprinting through the snow last winter, full of energy and life and joy.
I have a new pup now, a Beagle from a lab. She is very small (at 13 pounds, a veterinarian recently dubbed her a “micro Beagle”) and she doesn’t quite fit the standard breed sizing. This will be her first winter outside, and her very own made-to-measure Voyager K9 winter coat (and tummy warmer and rain coat) has been ordered and is on its way.
The Olive & Odin Poop Pouch provides a place to stash your doggy bags until long walks are done. Credit: Olive & Odin
Price: $23
The worst thing about being a responsible pet owner is carrying stinky bags full of poop for the duration of your outing with your dog. My walks with my dogs became so much more enjoyable when I discovered the Olive and Odin Poop Pouch. It seriously 100% locks in odor! The bag is made with a five-layer design (one layer is activated carbon) that locks in odors to keep your walk stink-free.
It’s also easy to use and carry. The top opens up wide, making it easy to drop a poop-filled bag into the Poop Pouch. You fold over the opening a couple of times and when you clip it together it keeps the folded edge completely closed.
And the 7-inch by 10-inch pouch holds a lot of poop! I walk two large-breed dogs who each poop at least twice on our walks and there is room to spare. You can clip the bag to a belt loop or backpack. The Poop Pouch also has a small pocket on the front (like for keys or an ATM card) and a poop-bag dispenser.
I have never had to clean it, I simply empty it when we get home and leave it standing open in the garage to air out. I have been using it for two years and hundreds of walks and it still smells fresh as a daisy!
Or the handle can be looped around itself: The Handle with the O-ring is long enough that, even if it’s looped through itself, there is still plenty of room for my hand.
We rarely feature different products from the same company two years in a row, but I have to make an exception for a product I didn’t know I needed until I had one. Last year, I raved about Trailblazing Tails’ long lines that are made of Biothane, a light but strong synthetic material that feels like leather (but doesn’t crack or dry out the way leather can when it gets wet and dries repeatedly). After running that review, Trailblazing Tails sent me some samples of their other products, including what is now my new favorite dog-walking accessory: The Handle.
I have a dozen or more leashes hanging up in my house by the door, tangled up in the way-back of my car, and strewn around my office. I’m never quite sure which leash is where, and I don’t really care – as long as I know the location of The Handle, a 101/2-inch-long, 5/8-inch wide handle that can be attached to any other leash (or clipped directly to a collar), to improve the handle’s comfort and grip. Whether I’m handling a big dog who is prone to lunging (par for the course when I’m doing some volunteer work with wayward adolescent dogs at the shelter), or taking ahold of a client’s crummy leash, I snap on The Handle to save my hands from rope burns and/or losing my grip on a rogue dog.
You can run the other leash’s handle through the O-ring and back through itself.
Although The Handle is available in Trailblazing Tails’ Premium Biothane – the regular, flat, smooth surface – for $20, I recommend the $2 upgrade to the Premium Supergrip Biothane, which is covered with rubbery soft bumps. Everyone who puts a hand on this handle immediately gets a surprised, happy expression on their face and says, “Oh!” The material is soft and grippy at the same time and supremely comfortable in the hand.
You can order The Handle in one of three colors (brown, black, or red) and with one of three ends: a snap, O-rings on both ends, or a 1-inch O-ring (that’s the one I have). Each of these connects in varying ways with some of Trailblazing Tails’ other leashes and long lines, some of which have snaps at each ends, or which can be fed through the O-rings and snapped back onto a sliding D-ring on the leash.
I use The Handle with all my other leashes by looping their handles through the 1-inch O-ring, or by looping The Handle itself around the leash’s handle. Either way works and improves the way every leash feels in my hands.
Bark Pouch provides a range of prepackaged and convenient treats that can be used anywhere with convenience.
Price: $7 – $8.25
I will never forget the time I spent an hour cutting a 2-pound bag of tiny treats into quarters. Even though I like to cook and chop veggies regularly, by the end I had blisters. Never again! Imagine if I had arthritis or carpal tunnel or was recovering from a hand or arm surgery? Forget it. Training would have just been off the table. Sure, there are some lickable options at Petco, but I don’t love the ingredients enough to make them a regular part of my dog’s diet or recommend them to clients.
With Bark Pouch, gone are the days of filling camping tubes or travel bottles with cream cheese and peanut butter. And I no longer subject myself to handling slimy hot dogs outside in cold weather. When I need an easy-to-handle, high-value treat that my dog will love, made with human grade ingredients, I just reach for a Bark Pouch.
With simple, short ingredient lists and five flavor recipes that your dog will love (Beef & Liverwurst, Peanut Butter & Blueberry, Salmon & Ricotta, Sardines & Cream Cheese, Turkey & Chicken), Bark Pouch will cut down on treat prep so you can just get training. They’re very versatile. I’ve used them for everything from teaching loose-leash walking, working with reactive dogs, luring dogs out of dangerous situations, muzzle conditioning, and continuous treating during medical handling. Feed it directly from the tube, or spread it on a LickiMat for enrichment. The only thing you can’t do with this high-value treat that you can do with hot dogs is toss it!
These are pricey, but Bark Pouch offers discounts for buying in bulk (35 or more pouches at once) or by subscription.
The Lucidium range of pet pens provide and unimpeded view for both you and your dog. Credit: Clearly Loved Pets.
Price: $370 – $550
Whether for potty training, dog/baby safety, travel, or crate rest after surgery, most dogs will need to be safely contained at some point in their lives. Teaching dogs to feel comfortable when their movement is restricted is a necessary part of responsible dog ownership.
There are many ways to contain a dog: crates, baby gates, tethers, and pens are the popular options. Dog stuff may not be as ugly as cat furniture, but they aren’t exactly designed for your dream home, either. That is unless you opt for a Lucidium Pet Pen from Clearly Loved Pets. With scratch-resistant aluminum frames that come in gunmetal, silver, or white, these transparent acrylic pens are a decor enthusiast’s dream. I discovered these pens a few years ago when I walked into a new client’s home and saw her dog curled up on a faux fur rug inside one of these beauties. I instantly fell in love (with the pen and the dog, of course).
These are higher-end, higher-cost containment systems, but they offer several advantages. There are no bars for your dog to chew on or use to climb. You can see your dog (and she can see you) without any obstruction, which seems to make many dogs behave as if they aren’t missing out on anything. They come in multiple sizes and can be arranged in a variety of shapes. You can up the aesthetic ante (and save your floors) by placing a washable rug or interlocking foam tiles on the floor to further delineate the area.
The smallest standard pen is 24 inches by 48 inches; the largest is 48 inches by 72 inches. But additional panels can be ordered to expand any pen.
These pens are available in two heights: 27 inches and 36 inches – so, they are not going to be useful for large dogs, or small dogs with high-jumping skills. They are perfect for puppies and smaller dogs – and I think they’d be perfect for a senior dog who needed to be contained but for whom ducking into a crate or turning around in a small space is difficult. (And it’s easy for you to access them, if, for example, you had to go into the enclosure to help them up.)
Prince and his Go Pro setup; the Fetch Dog Harness fits nicely over his fleece jacket, too. Photo by Dr. Jennifer Bailey
Price – $40
I recently bought myself a new toy: the GoPro Hero 11 action camera. I wanted a camera to document and share the many adventures that my dog, Prince, and I experience – hiking, biking, kayaking, and so much more. The GoPro Hero 11, with its high-resolution color and super smooth stabilization, fit the bill perfectly.
Prince and I were getting ready to attend the veterinary emergency and critical care conference in Denver, Colorado, last fall when I got a brilliant idea. Wouldn’t it be cool for the folks back home to see the conference from Prince’s perspective? To do this, I purchased the Fetch Dog Harness from GoPro so that Prince could direct his own movies.
The harness arrived the day before we left for the conference. Upon opening the package, I became a little apprehensive about how this would fit him. In all honesty, I had ignored the minimum weight requirement on the GoPro web page when ordering the harness. According to GoPro, the Fetch Dog Harness is fully adjustable for dogs weighing between 20 and 120 pounds.
Thankfully, Prince is a little more deep-chested than the average 17-pound dog. The instructions for adjusting the harness were clear and straightforward and the harness fit him perfectly. But the Fetch Dog Harness may not fit every dog who weighs less than 20 pounds.
For Prince’s first movie, I put the Fetch Dog Harness on him outside the conference hotel. We walked the grounds outside and then entered the hotel to finish walking to the conference center. He walked normally with the GoPro camera on his back. But I could tell that he was just humoring me by wearing the harness and was not terribly excited to be a part of my game plan.
Upon entering the conference hotel, people immediately started noticing that he was wearing a GoPro camera. Prince heard people’s comments as they passed him – “Look at the handsome dog!” and “Oh, cool! He’s wearing a GoPro!” Prince’s normal prancing gait turned into a proud and exaggerated strut as he walked toward the conference center.
Prince showed his audience how important it is to sniff bushes and check out the contents of people’s open bags and purses as he passed. He ended the movie by jumping up onto a chair in the conference hall and sitting down, ready to learn.
I put the Fetch Dog Harness on him later that morning so he could make a movie while walking about the exhibit hall. This time, he lowered his head and pushed himself into the harness. He patiently stood while I fastened the straps around his chest. Then he took off for the exhibit hall with such confidence and swagger. The movie was stable, crisp, and clear, even when he jumped two feet into the air demanding cookies!
Prince’s movies have been a hit with his fan club. If you have a GoPro camera, buy Go Pro’s Fetch Dog Harness so your dog can also be a famous director and star of his own show.
The bully grip prevents dogs from chewing the treat down to the point it poses a choking hazard. Credit: Bully Grip
I’m honestly not sure who loves bully sticks more: The dogs? Or the people who get to watch their dogs hold onto the stick with their paws and chomp away, knowing that their dog is happy (and quiet and occupied!).
There’s just one problem: that little choking hazard that occurs when the stick is chewed down to the end. Depending on your dog and the individual bully stick, the hazard could happen in 10 minutes, or 45 minutes, or two hours, or tomorrow. So you have to watch them – and you can’t put them in their crate and leave them with their favorite thing to do unless you have a Bully Grip – WDJ’s new favorite bully stick holder.
With a touch of water and a twist, the eco-friendly all-rubber Bully Grip grabs onto the end of that expensive bully stick and doesn’t let go. The stick can be chewed down to the last inch without worry. The Bully Grip comes in small, medium, and large to fit bully sticks of varying widths. Or, you can opt for the Bully Lok Chew Holder, which has a screw that can be turned to hold the bully stick in place and can be used with any size of stick.
These are available from the maker, as well as through Amazon.com.
Your dog may interact with toxic, poisonous plants at any time of the year, but for some reason, the holidays come with an overload of dangerous flowers, like poinsettia, and pine cones in the trees, and don’t forget the cookies. Credit: Jason Ondreicka | Getty Images
Many flowers and house plants are toxic for dogs. Calla lilies, jade plants, poinsettia, and mistletoe are just a few. Most toxic plants cause vomiting, diarrhea, and/or lethargy, but some can even be fatal when eaten in large quantities. During the holidays, the number of potential hazards for your dog are especially high.
If your dog is respectful of tables and counters, you can likely keep potentially toxic flowers and plants safely out of reach. Be sure that the arrangement is placed so that dead leaves will not land on the floor, as some dogs may try to eat these poisonous dropped leaves.
For dogs and puppies who like to explore the world with their mouths, more caution is warranted. A rambunctious teenage Labrador can easily bump a table and knock over a vase of tulips, and an avid counter surfer might grab for the carnations you thought were safe next to the sink.
What Flowers are Safe for Dogs?
Thankfully, many beautiful flowers are not toxic to dogs. If purchasing an arrangement for yourself or a fellow dog lover, consider blooms from this list:
If you suspect your dog has eaten something poisonous, call your veterinarian immediately. You may be instructed to give activated charcoal, but don’t unless you are instructed to do so.
If your dog has eaten a known poisonous plant or a plant that you aren’t familiar with, call a pet poison hotline to get the most up-to-date toxicity information. These services do charge a fee, but it is well worth it to get peace of mind or to have toxin experts guiding your veterinarian in making treatment decisions.
Your veterinarian has dozens of options when prescribing an antibiotic for your dog’s infection and will choose the most appropriate one, based on her professional experience and education. However, it can be helpful if you are aware of any contraindications or potential side effects of your dog’s medication. Credit: Nancy Kerns
Antibiotics are the best weapon in our medical arsenal for fighting bacterial infections in dogs. Prescribed and given appropriately, antibiotics give our dogs the best chance at recovery from an infection. It is important to note that antibiotics are effective only at treating bacterial infections, not canine viral,yeast, or fungal infections.
Some antibiotics are better suited for certain types of infections than others. Your veterinarian will select an antibiotic based on the type of infection your dog has and where that infection is located. The results of a bacterial culture and sensitivity test, when available, can also help direct the antibiotic selection.
Other considerations for antibiotic selection include which formulation is easiest to give your dog (liquid versus tablet), how much your dog weighs, how often the antibiotic needs to be given, what medications your dog is currently being given, and any reactions your dog has had to medications in the past.
You must give antibiotics exactly as prescribed by your veterinarian; there are serious consequences for antibiotic misuse for dogs. Always complete the full course of treatment, even if your dog seems to be feeling better. Contact your veterinarian if your dog experiences one or more side effects from the antibiotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe something to help alleviate the side effect or may prescribe a different antibiotic.
The following is an information guide to the most common antibiotics that are used in dogs.
Amoxicillin for Dogs
Common trade names: Amoxi-Tabs, Amoxi-Drop, Bimox.
Drug class: Penicillin
Indicated for: Respiratory tract infections, urinary tract infections, gastrointestinal infections, skin infections (abscesses, lacerations, and wounds). Can also be used to treat Lyme disease in dogs who are sensitive to or are too young to receive doxycycline.
Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have had a previous hypersensitivity to any antibiotic in the penicillin or cephalosporin classes of drugs.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, and oral suspension.
Amoxicillin/Clavulante for Dogs
Common trade names: Clavamox, Augmentin
Drug class: Penicillin
Indicated for: Skin infections (superficial and deep pyoderma), soft tissue infections (wounds, abscesses, cellulitis), periodontal infections, urinary tract infections, endocarditis (heart valve infections), and canine infectious respiratory disease complex caused by a bacterial infection.
Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have had a previous hypersensitivity to any antibiotic in the penicillin or cephalosporin classes of drugs.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets and oral suspension. Clavamox is the veterinary formulation and Augmentin is the human formulation. The ratio of amoxicillin to clavulanate is different between Clavamox and Augmentin, so prescribing Clavamox for dogs is preferred over prescribing Augmentin.
Azithromycin for Dogs
Common trade names: Zithromax
Drug class: Macrolide
Indicated for: Skin infections and other susceptible infections. Used to treat susceptible protozoal infections (Babesia gibsoni and microti, theileriosis, and cryptosporidiosis). Also used to treat ileus (cessation of normal gastrointestinal smooth muscle contractions).
Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have liver disease.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets, oral suspension. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.
Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have had a previous hypersensitivity to any antibiotic in the penicillin or cephalosporin classes of drugs.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs who have had a previous hypersensitivity to any antibiotic in the penicillin or cephalosporin classes of drugs.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
Indicated for: Skin infections. Can be used for (but is not labeled for) urinary tract infections and periodontal infections. Can also be used for (but is not labeled for) treating Lyme disease in canine patients who are sensitive to or are too young to receive doxycycline.
Contraindications: Should not be used in dogs with a previous hypersensitivity to any antibiotic in the penicillin or cephalosporin classes of drugs. Should be used with caution in dogs with kidney disease. The safe use of this drug in puppies younger than 4 months of age has not been established.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite. This is a long-acting antibiotic. Side effects can remain for up to two months following injection. Anaphylaxis (a severe allergic reaction) has been reported but is rare.
Formulations available: Injection for veterinary use only.
Clindamycin for Dogs
Common trade names: Antirobe, Cleocin.
Drug class: Lincosamide.
Indicated for: Skin infections, dental infections (such as tooth root abscesses), osteomyelitis (bone infections), systemic infections (such as sepsis), surgical prophylaxis (such as before a dental procedure or before a surgical procedure if a dog is hypersensitive to amoxicillin). Also used for susceptible protozoal infections (Babesia gibsoni, Hepatozoon canis, Neospora, and Toxoplasma).
Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have severe kidney and/or liver disease. Unlike in humans, use of clindamycin in dogs is not associated with an increased risk of severe Clostridium difficile infection and associated diarrhea.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, and loss of appetite. Can cause esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) if not given with food or water.
Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, oral solution. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.
Doxycycline for Dogs
Common trade names: Vibramycin, Doxy 100, Doxirobe (periodontal gel).
Drug class: Tetracycline.
Indicated for: Leptospirosis, several tick-borne diseases (anaplasmosis, Lyme disease, erlichiosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, babesiosis), and periodontal infections. Also part of the treatment plan for canine heartworm disease.
Contraindications: Do not give with multivitamins, calcium supplements, antacids, or laxatives two hours before or after giving doxycycline; these products may inactivate doxycycline. Should be used with caution in dogs with severe liver disease.
Potential side effects: Vomiting, nausea, and loss of appetite. Can cause esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) if not given with food or water. May cause your dog’s skin to become more at risk for developing sunburn, particularly on the nose, eyelids, ears, and underside of the dog’s belly. It’s rare, but it can cause discolored baby teeth in puppies or interfere with the formation of enamel on adult teeth as they are developing in puppies.
Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, oral suspension. Also available as a gel for application under the gums for treatment/prevention of periodontal disease (for veterinary use only).
Erythromycin for Dogs
Common trade names: Gallimycin.
Drug class: Macrolide.
Indicated for: Susceptible infections. Should only be prescribed if a bacterial culture and sensitivity test indicates that this is the best antibiotic to address your dog’s infection. Also used to treat ileus (cessation of normal gastrointestinal smooth muscle contractions).
Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have the MDR1 (ABCB1) gene mutation. (The breeds that most commonly have this mutation include Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Australian Shepherds, Old English Sheepdogs, English Shepherds, German Shepherds, Long-Haired Whippets, Silken Windhounds, and mixed-breed dogs descended from one of those breeds.)
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, oral suspension. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.
Marbofloxacin/Zeniquin for Dogs
Common trade names: Zeniquin
Drug class: Fluoroquinolone
Indicated for: Skin infections, urinary tract infections, and leishmaniasis.
Contraindications: Do not give at the same time as other medications. Do not give with multivitamins that contain certain minerals, such as calcium, iron, magnesium, aluminum, or zinc. Should be used with caution in dogs who have severe kidney or liver disease. Should be used with caution in dogs who have a seizure disorder. May cause your dog’s skin to become more at risk for developing sunburn, particularly on the nose, eyelids, ears, and underside of the dog’s belly. * Note: The use of fluoroquinolones is contraindicated for puppies during their rapid growth phase. The rapid growth phase begins at 2 months of age in all puppies and ends at 8 months old for small and medium breed dogs, 1 year of age for large breed dogs, and 18 months old for giant breed dogs. The use of fluoroquinolones in puppies has been shown to cause cartilage deformation within their joints when given for prolonged periods of time at high doses.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, and loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets.
Metronidazole for Dogs
Common trade names: Flagyl
Indicated for: Severe systemic infections caused by anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that do not require air to grow). May also be used for enteritis (gastrointestinal infections) caused by Clostridium species of bacteria, gastritis (stomach infection) caused by Helicobacter, giardiasis (when used in combination with fenbendazole), hepatic encephalopathy, and canine chronic ulcerative stomatitis.
Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have severe liver disease.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, and loss of appetite. Can cause nervous system side effects, including ataxia (wobbly gait) and nystagmus (rapid eye movement).
Formulations available: Tablets, capsules, oral suspension. Also available as injection for veterinary use only.
Contraindications: Do not give at the same time as other medications. Do not give with multivitamins that contain certain minerals, such as calcium, iron, magnesium, aluminum, or zinc. Should be used with caution in dogs who have severe liver disease. Should be used with caution in dogs who have a seizure disorder. * Note: The use of fluoroquinolones is contraindicated for puppies during their rapid growth phase. The rapid growth phase begins at 2 months of age in all puppies and ends at 8 months old for small and medium breed dogs, 1 year of age for large breed dogs, and 18 months old for giant breed dogs. The use of fluoroquinolones in puppies has been shown to cause cartilage deformation within their joints when given for prolonged periods of time at high doses.
Potential side effects: Diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, and loss of appetite.
Formulations available: Tablets, oral suspension.
Trimethoprim/Bactrim for Dogs
Common trade names: Bactrim, Sulfatrim, TMS
Indicated for: Skin infections, urinary tract infections, and leishmaniasis. Indicated for treatment of pneumocystis pneumonia caused by Pneumocystis jiroveci. Also used for susceptible protozoal infections (Hepatozoon americanum, Neospora, and Toxoplasma) and for coccidiosis.
Contraindications: Should be used with caution in dogs who have moderate to severe kidney or liver disease. A serious immune-related condition called sulfonamide-induced polysystemic immune complex disease (SPICD) can develop in dogs taking trimethoprim/sulfamethoxazole. Doberman Pinschers, Samoyeds, and Miniature Schnauzers are at increased risk for developing SPICD.
Potential side effects: Keratoconjunctivitis sicca (dry eye).
Some people may need an emotional support dog to cope with life, but in order for that dog to qualify you for benefits, you need your mental health professional to write a letter. Credit: Little City Lifestyle Photography | Getty Images
It’s a trick! Emotional support animals are not registered in any database. What you do need is a letter from your licensed mental health professional that you need an emotional support animal.
What Is an Emotional Support Animal?
An emotional support animal (ESA) is any critter that provides comfort, companionship, and relief for a person who has an emotional or mental condition. Canine ESAs help their owners cope simply by being present.
These dogs are not service dogs. Service dogs are trained to perform specific tasks to aid people with disabilities. Seeing eye dogs are the most common example, but there are countless other tasks that dogs can perform to help their owners navigate daily life. For example, a psychiatric service dog might be trained to remind the owner to take their medications or guide their person to safety during a panic attack.
Emotional Support Dog Training
No specific training or certification is needed for the dog to be an ESA. Emotional support dogs do, however, need basic training and socialization, just like any other dog, so that they are not dangerous or disruptive when out in public.
Service dogs are legally protected under the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) and can go pretty much anywhere with their handlers. Emotional support dogs do not count as service dogs because they do not have specific training, and they do not have the same legal rights.
The primary area where emotional support dogs have extra benefits is in housing. Landlords cannot bar you from renting with an ESA and can’t charge pet fees. Some businesses and restaurants may allow ESAs access where other pets are denied, but this can vary. Airlines are no longer required to allow ESAs to fly for free.
Emotional Support Dog Certification
Rather than any sort of certification, in order to have an emotional support dog you need an Emotional Support Animal letter from a licensed medical human-health professional.
What does this mean? It means that you need to be seeing a therapist, psychiatrist, or psychologist, and that professional must determine that you can benefit from having an ESA and write a letter stating that. This letter is what gives your ESA access to housing that doesn’t otherwise allow dogs.
There are many websites out there that advertise that they will register your dog as an ESA and sell you vests and badges. But these bells and whistles will get you nowhere without a legitimate ESA letter from a mental health professional.
Who doesn’t love a puppy? Keeping your puppy healthy means giving them time to mature physically as well as mentally and feeding an appropriate quality food. Credit: Marko Paakkanen | Getty Images
Puppies differ from adult dogs both in physical maturity and in their behavior. Although the exact timeframe varies by size and breed, pretty much all dogs are considered adults by 2 years of age.
When Do Dogs Stop Growing?
Scientifically, your dog stops growing when the growth plates in her bones seal up and are no longer creating new bone. This can be seen on an X-ray. Puppies will have black lines toward the ends of all of their longer bones, while adult dogs do not.
The timing of growth-plate closure is controlled by hormones and varies with the size of the dog. Small-breed dogs, under 20 lbs of adult weight, tend to mature more quickly, while large breeds, with a mature weight of over 70 lbs, take the longest. Toy breeds can be done growing around 1 year of age, while giant breeds will continue to grow until their second birthday, and they will continue to “bulk up” for several years after that.
Most medium-size dogs, between 20 and 50 lbs, are done growing around 18 months of age.
How Long is a Dog Considered a Puppy for Food?
Your dog should be eating puppy food until his growth plates close. Those growing bones require a lot of extra nutrients and minerals. It won’t hurt to leave him on the food a little longer, as long as he doesn’t gain excess weight.
General guidelines for when to switch to adult food are:
Small dogs: 9 months
Medium dogs: 12 months
Large dogs: 18 months
Giant breeds: 18 to 24 months
Large- and giant-breed puppies should eat food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies to support optimal growth of those big bones. You should feed a food labeled for “Growth/Reproduction” or for “All Life Stages.” If you have a large-breed dog, read the AAFCO nutritional statement on the bag of food, which should state if it is acceptable for puppies who will mature at 70 lbs of weight or more.
Tip: If you’re nervous about when to make the change from puppy food to adult food, you can feed a diet that covers all your bases. All Life Stages foods provide everything that both puppies and adult dogs need. Check out Whole Dog Journal’sapproved dry foods and approved canned foods for help sorting among the many different brands of food.
How Long is a Dog a Puppy Mentally?
Puppy brains go through many of the same processes that child brains go through. Your adolescent puppy may have a mostly mature body, but her brain isn’t there yet. Adolescence ends around 18 to 24 months for most dogs.
Thanksgiving turkey fills the house with a tantilizing aroma, and your dog is not immune to it. He may even pick up on the wafting scent before the humans in the house do! Credit: Jodi Jacobson | Getty Images
If you’re planning to share turkey with your dog, consider the way the turkey has been prepared. Avoid table scraps that have been cooked with additional ingredients and deli meat that is full of salt. If you choose to give your dog a taste of Thanksgiving turkey, make it a small bite. (Be careful with the entire Thanksgiving meal, of course, as it could contain some ingredients that are not healthy for your dog.)
Your dog can eat turkey that has been fully baked without additional seasonings. Some ingredients in traditional Thanksgiving baked turkeys may cause gastrointestinal upset like vomiting and diarrhea, or could be toxic to your dog (onions!). When it’s cooked blandly without additional ingredients and fed appropriately most dogs can eat turkey. Many dogs will consider turkey a high-value treat for training.
Dogs Who Should Avoid Turkey
If your dog has any chronic illnesses or problems, ask your veterinarian if your dog can eat turkey. Your veterinarian may advise against it if your dog has a history of:
For sure, certain parts of the traditional turkey should be avoided, including:
Bones
Seasonings
Skin of turkey
Fats or broth
Salt
Normally Dogs Eat Turkey in Their Dog-Food
Whole turkey is only safe for your dog when consumed without any extra ingredients and as a snack, training treat, or meal topper only. Whole turkey alone though is not a balanced diet. Remember that quality dog food has been properly formulated with additional ingredients to match the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) recommended levels of nutrients that ensure your dog is eating a healthy, balanced diet. You can find Whole Dog Journal recommended dry foods and recommended canned foods, many of which include turkey as a protein source.
Do female dogs have periods? No, dogs do not have periods. During one stage of the dog’s reproductive cycle there is a bloody vaginal discharge that superficially resembles a period. However, a dog’s heat cycle is not the same as a woman’s menstrual cycle. Dogs experience bloody vaginal discharge at the beginning of their reproductive cycle to increase fertility and prepare for pregnancy during the current cycle. If a woman does not become pregnant during one cycle, the uterine lining is shed at the end of the cycle to prepare a fresh uterine lining for the next reproductive cycle.
Signs of Heat in Dogs
When female dogs have a bloody vaginal discharge, they are considered “in heat” or “in season.” This is not a dog having a period. Signs of heat in female dogs include:
Swelling of the vulva
Bleeding from the vulva
Excessively licking the vulva
Possibly, tail tucked down tight
Dogs in heat may seem clingier than usual. Smaller dogs usually have their first heat around 6 to 7 months of age. Larger breeds often start a little later. Dogs usually come into heat twice a year, or every six months or so. The time to breed a dog is about one to three weeks after the bleeding starts (see stages, below).
Dog Heat Cycle Stages
There are four stages to a heat cycle:
Proestrus, which is when the bleeding starts, lasts one to three weeks, this is when inexperienced owners may start wondering if dogs have a period.
Estrus, which is when the dog is fertile and can be bred, the bleeding may slow or even stop and the female dog will be receptive to male attention, lasts one to three weeks
Diestrus, which is not a fertile time, if the dog is not pregnant it’s a quiet time in the cycle
Anestrous, which is the rebuilding time for the reproductive tract before the next heat cycle begins, lasts about four months
A dog’s heat cycle stages are not the same thing as a dog having a period. It signals the start of fertility for a female dog, and not the end of the cycle. If you’ve found yourself wondering if dogs have a period because your dog has started bleeding then you’ll need to take some precautions to avoid an unwanted pregnancy.
Avoid Unwanted Puppies
If your female dog goes into heat and you do not want her to get pregnant, keep close tabs on her. Never go outside without her on a leash, and be on the lookout for wandering, unattended male dogs when you do go outside. Watch her closely when she is outside in your fenced yard, too, as male dogs will jump fences to get to a female in heat. Help her keep her perivulvar area clean and dry. It’s OK to use diapers to limit the mess but change them frequently.
If you do not have plans to breed your female dog, consider having her spayed. This is the best way to avoid unwanted pregnancy and to prevent uterine and ovarian problems. And it will make your life a lot easier, at least twice a year. Note: Dogs do sometimes have false pregnancies.
Calming treats and chews may help an anxious dog deal with occasional situations, but a dog who is living constantly stressed and afraid may need a prescription medication and training to help him overcome his lack of confidence. Credit: Alexandra Jursova | Getty Images
Dog calming treats or chews are available over the counter, but for dogs truly dealing with anxiety, a prescription medication is often a better option. Don’t hesitate to discuss this with your veterinarian, because the medications were developed due to a definite need. If your veterinarian agrees and gives you a prescription, be sure that you fill it and use it as prescribed and report back to your veterinarian. Canine anxiety medications may be a good choice for your dog.
Over-the Counter Options
If you want to see if it makes any difference, it’s not a bad thing to reach for a calming treat. Calming chews and treats for dogs available in pet stores can help produce a short-term “Zen” for the average dog. Ingredients known to help are L-tryptophan and chamomile (yes, like in turkey or chamomile tea). Interestingly, probiotics have also been shown to help mellow out a dog. L-theanine, valerian root, and hemp (CBD) all have fans who say they help calm a dog.
Solliquin, Pawfy, Purina Calming Care, and Zesty Paws Calming Bites all have their fans, as well as the homeopathic supplement Rescue Remedy. As with any supplement, discuss these with your veterinarian to be sure you don’t interfere with anything your dog is already taking, such as medications or supplements. It is also important to look for products made in the United States and have a National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal of approval if possible.
Dog Calming Treats Proof
Most of these products and their ingredients do not have evidence-based medicine behind them. Also, while some ingredients may work for many dogs, other dogs may not respond. That’s also why we recommend you discuss this with your veterinarian.
You should always do a test run on any product before you need it, as in before a known stressful events, just in case your dog does not respond at all or responds in the wrong way. In addition, don’t mix and match supplements without veterinary guidance.
For some dogs, a large and safe chew item such as a treat-filled Kong given while in a crate in a quiet room, works as well or better than any supplement. Even social dogs will benefit from a quiet break from “the action” at times.
Finally, we would be remiss not to recommend behavior training to overcome some anxieties, preferably with the guidance of a force-free/fear-free professional trainer.
You need to know why your dog is barking in order to deal with it appropriately. You wouldn’t want to ignore a dog who was barking to alert you to smoke filling the downstairs or a burglar in the garage – though it’s best if you don’t acknowledge a dog who is demand-barking. Photo by Lubo Ivanko, Getty Images
Dogs bark for many reasons, but the overall reason is communication. You may just want to know how to stop your dog from barking, whether she’s barking at people, at you, another dog, sounds, or something else in her world, but the fact is, all that barking is simply your dog trying to communicate. As annoying as it may be, it’s better to understand why she’s barking and address the reason for it, rather than just telling her to be quiet.
Types of Barking
Strategies for modifying barking behavior vary depending on the cause. Here are the most common reasons for canine vocal communications, as well as the most effective strategies for dealing with each:
Alarm Barking. The dog who alarm-barks may save you from danger: “The house is on fire!” She’s doing her job – letting you know there’s something to be concerned about.
Alarm barkers can save lives, but sometimes their judgment about what constitutes an alarm-appropriate situation can be a little faulty. Sometimes it’s just someone walking past your house.
To manage alarm-barking, reduce your dog’s exposure to stimuli that can cause arousal. Baby-gate her out of the front room, move furniture away from windows so she can’t jump up and see out, close drapes, or use opaque film on the lower half of the windows to obscure your dog’s view. Outdoors, you can install a privacy fence, attach a solid barrier to your see-through chain-link fencing, or put up an interior fence to block her access to the more stimulating parts of the yard.
You can use counter-conditioning and desensitization to modify alarm barking: Sit with your dog at the window. When someone walks by, let her look, feed a high-value tidbit, let her look again, feed again, until the passerby is out of sight. When you’re not there to feed, prevent access to windows that look out on passersby.
It’s also useful to teach a positive interrupt to stop your dog in mid-bark. (See “The Positive Interrupt,” below.)
THE POSITIVE INTERRUPT
The positive interrupt is a highly reinforced behavior that redirects your dog’s attention to you when she’s doing something inappropriate, like barking. You want your dog’s response to “Over here!” to be so automatic that she doesn’t stop to think, she just does it, the way your foot automatically hits the brake of your car when you see taillights flash in front of you.
Here’s how to teach it:
Start in a low-distraction environment. Use a phrase such as “Over here!” as your interrupt cue. Say it cheerfully, then immediately feed your dog a very high-value treat, such as a small shred of chicken. Repeat until her eyes light up and hers ears perk when you say it.
Practice in a low-distraction environment. Wait until your dog is engaged in a low-value activity – wandering around the room, sniffing something mildly interesting – then cheerfully say your interrupt cue. Look for an immediate interrupt in the low-value activity, and a dash to you for chicken. If it doesn’t happen, return to Step 1.
Add distractions. In the low-distraction environment, gradually add moderate distractions and practice the interrupt. Slowly move up to major distractions. If you lose the automatic response, return to the previous step.
Practice with real-life distractions. Walk around the block with your dog on leash. Use the interrupt when she’s sniffing a bush. Start with mild to moderate real-life distractions, but if a major distraction presents itself, give it a try!
Use the positive cue to interrupt barking. When your dog automatically turns her attention to you in any environment in response to your cue, you have a valuable tool for interrupting her barking. Practice occasionally with mild distractions to keep the cue “tuned up.” And remember to reinforce her when she stops barking on your request.
Before you use the interrupt, however, investigate why your dog is barking. Perhaps your house really is on fire!
Alert Barking. This is a less-aroused communication to tell you there’s something of interest; a hawk perching on the back fence, or Dad’s car pulling in the driveway. You can manage and modify in the same manner as alarm-barking, and use the positive interrupt. This is usually easier because the emotional level is lower.
Anxiety Barking. This is a complex and challenging behavior to modify and manage, because true anxiety is a real panic attack – the dog truly cannot control her behavior.
Significant anxiety usually requires the intervention of a positive behavior consultant, and often, behavior modification drugs. You will need to consult with a professional behavior counselor and manage the environment to minimize exposure to anxiety-producing conditions while you help your dog learn how to cope. See “Extreme Anxiety in Dogs,” WDJ February 2022.
Boredom Barking. The backyard barking dog is often lonely and bored. Boredom barking is usually continuous, with a monotonous quality. This barking is very annoying to neighbors and may elicit a visit from a local animal control officer.
The answer here is relatively easy. Bring the dog inside. Many outdoor barkers are perfectly content to lie quietly around the house all day and sleep peacefully beside your bed at night. If your dog isn’t house-safe, crates, exercise pens, dog walkers, exercise, and doggie daycare can keep her out of trouble until she earns house privileges. Employ environmental enrichment, such as interactive toys (food-stuffed toys and puzzles), to keep her brain engaged and her mouth busy. See “The Best Food-Dispensing Dog Toys,” April 2019, for some of WDJ’s favorites.
Demand Barking. A demand barker gets what she wants (usually attention or treats) by making noise. An adorable little grumble can quickly turn into insistent, loud barks. Preempt the development of demand barking by randomly giving your dog attention and treats for being quiet, before she starts barking.
It’s easiest to extinguish demand barking early – as soon as you notice that your dog has learned to do this. The longer a dog has been reinforced, the more persistently she’ll bark when you try to ignore her. However, ignoring is the best answer. No treats, no attention – not even eye contact. The instant the barking starts, utter a cheerful “Oops!” and turn your back. When she’s quiet, say, “Quiet, yes!” and reinforce the quiet behavior by returning your attention to her.
When you’re extinguishing a behavior by ignoring it, your dog may initially increase her “I WANT IT!” behavior. This is called an extinction burst. If you stick it out and wait for the barking to stop, you’re well on your way to making it go away. If you give up and look at her, thinking extinction isn’t working, you’ve reinforced more intense barking, and your dog is likely to get more intense next time. Try to never give in when your dog is exhibiting an extinction burst, but reinforce as quickly as possible when she’s quiet.
Frustration Barking. Dogs with a low tolerance for frustration bark persistently when they can’t get what they want. This is an “I WANT IT!” communication similar to demand barking, but directed at the thing she wants, rather than at you.
You can use the positive interrupt and counter conditioning to redirect frustration barking. If you consistently offer high-value treats in the presence of frustration-causing stimuli such as another dog yours wants to greet, your dog will learn to look to you for treats when the other dog is present rather than erupt into frustration barking.
Greeting/Excitement Barking. If your dog hails you with hellos when you return home, shift into ignore mode. Stand outside and wait for the cacophony to subside, then enter calmly; no hug-fests or “I missed you!” sessions. Greet your dog when she’s calm and quiet. If she starts to bark again, mark the unwanted behavior with an “Oops!” and ignore her some more.
For high-volume greetings directed toward arriving guests, again, go into calm mode. Loud verbal reprimands just add to chaos. Use your positive interrupt and calmly put your dog in another room – then greet your visitors. Alternatively, use counter-conditioning to get her to anticipate treats rather than barking when visitors arrive.
Play Barking. As other dogs – or humans – romp and play, the play-barker runs around cheerleading. If neighbors won’t complain and the other dogs tolerate the behavior, you might just let it be. With children, however, the behavior is not appropriate; for some dogs, excitement can escalate into play biting, so it’s best to remove your dog from the kids’ play area if she’s getting too aroused.
To modify play-barking you can try “negative punishment,” where the dog’s behavior makes the good stuff go away. When the barking starts, use a time-out marker such as “Oops!” and gently remove your dog for one to three minutes; a short leash attached to the collar, just long enough to grab but not so long that it drags, can make this easier. Then release her to play again. As she comes to realize that barking ends the fun, she may get the idea. Or not; this is a pretty strong genetic behavior, especially with herding breeds.
Another tactic is to teach your dog to hold a favorite toy in her mouth; it’s hard to bark with a toy in your mouth!
Be Proactive with Barking Modification
Uncontrolled barking can be frustrating. I know this all too well, with three vocal dogs currently in my family. However, our dogs sometimes have important things to say. One day I was engrossed in writing an article and our dogs were alarm barking ferociously in the backyard. I reluctantly got up to investigate. No, the house wasn’t on fire, but I did find a sick groundhog in the yard.
You want to be able to have some influence over your dog’s voice, but don’t lose sight of the value of her vocal communications; she may be saying something important. If you ignore her, she might do combat with a rabid skunk in the yard, a thief might steal the car out of the garage, or the house might burn down!
Whether a dog has lost mobility due to injury or disease, today, there are lightweight devices that can help him be as active as he’s ever been. Most dogs readily accept the wheelchair and quickly learn to navigate the world with their new gear; they seem to realize that having wheels is better than being immobile! Photo by Serhii Ivashchuk, Getty Images
Most of us have seen a dog using a wheelchair to carry his paralyzed or weak back legs. But did you know there are also wheelchairs for dogs who can’t use (or don’t have) front legs? There are even wheelchairs for dogs who can’t walk at all – but with the support of an assistive device to carry most of their weight, are able to get around just fine. Today’s dog wheelchairs enable dogs to walk, run, fetch, and play despite old or new injuries, hip dysplasia, arthritis, leg amputations, degenerative myelopathy, invertebral disc disease, paralysis, or neurological problems that otherwise leave them incapacitated. Thanks to mobility options, dogs who can’t walk on their own don’t have to slow down.
Although they’re called wheelchairs, there is nothing chair-like about these devices. Most canine wheelchairs consist of two wheels (though some have four wheels) and a metal frame that supports the dog’s body.
Types of Dog Wheelchairs
No matter what part of the dog lacks strength or ability, there are wheelchairs that can help:
Rear-limb wheelchairs. These attach to the dog with a torso or chest harness, and a support bar placed under the abdomen positions the hind legs. If the dog has some hind-leg mobility, being able to touch the ground and move the hind legs aids the dog’s rehabilitation. If not, stirrups can hold the dog’s hind feet up and off the ground. Correctly fitted abdominal support straps or bars help prevent back strain.
Forelimb wheelchairs. These take advantage of a dog’s strong hind legs while supporting front legs that are weak, missing, or affected by pain by removing the pressure of the dog’s body weight. Some models include a head rest for added support. (See Eddie’s Wheels Forelimb Wheelchairs.)
Full-body support wheelchairs. These four-wheeled devices help dogs whose front and back legs are weak or partially paralyzed, causing them to stumble when they walk. The wheelchairs make it possible for the dog to move forward without falling. (See the Best Friend Mobility Quad Wheelchair.)
Some of these experts work directly with companies that make dog wheelchairs and customized mobility carts. They may benefit financially from client purchases, but their assistance can simplify the procedure, improve a wheelchair’s performance, and help resolve problems.
The “towel test” is a simple experiment you can do with your veterinarian or on your own to determine what type of support your dog needs. Place a long towel under your dog’s abdomen and raise your dog’s hips so his feet barely touch the ground. If your dog can move forward using his front legs alone, a rear-support canine wheelchair may work best. If his hind legs are strong but his front legs are weak, he may need a forelimb wheelchair. If your dog stumbles or has trouble moving forward at all, he may need a full-body-support wheelchair.
Checking the FAQs
Most people new to canine wheelchairs want to know:
Can my dog still use her hind legs in the wheelchair? Yes, if she can move them, whatever exercise your dog can experience will strengthen her body.
Can my dog still pee and poop while using the wheelchair? Yes, dog wheelchairs are designed to accommodate a dog’s need to eliminate.
Can the wheelchair go over a curb or stair? Yes, but not long or steep flights of stairs. Installing a ramp can simplify wheeling a few steps up or down.
How long will it take for my dog to get used to his wheelchair? That depends on your dog and the device. Motivated dogs usually adapt quickly because learning how to use a wheelchair is so rewarding. Allow your dog to adjust at his own pace.
Can my dog sleep in his wheelchair? Can he stay there all day? The answer to both questions is no. Dog wheelchairs are designed to hold dogs upright, in a standing position, and they are not designed for sleeping or resting. Plan to help your dog out of his wheelchair when it’s time for a nap or at the end of an activity period.
Cost of Dog Wheelchairs
Budget dog wheelchairs cost less than $100, and while they work well for temporary use, such as when a dog is recovering from surgery or an injury, they are not built to last.
In contrast, dogs who need mobility support indefinitely need sturdy, high-quality devices. Midrange canine wheelchairs cost between $100 and $300, and the most durable all-terrain wheelchairs cost up to $850 or more. The most sophisticated wheelchairs combine hoists, mobility wheels, and custom features.
POPULAR DOG-WHEELCHAIR MANUFACTURERS
You can find mobility-support devices for dogs on sites like Amazon, but we would strongly suggest buying directly from companies that make their dog wheelchairs. For each of these companies, improving the mobility of impaired dogs is their passion, and they not only provide their customers with detailed information about their products, but also offer encouragement and emotional support to dog owners who have unexpectedly found themselves in the market for one of these devices. And when the product arrives, they can provide phone or emailed help with troubleshooting and adjustment – something you are not going to get from an Amazon reseller.
Best Friend Mobility. Offers a wide selection of rear support, front support, and quad support devices.
Doggon’ Wheels. Sells new wheelchairs as well as refurbished products (as available). Doggon’ Wheels also accepts used chairs after families don’t need them anymore and makes them available to needy dogs by request.
Eddie’s Wheels. Front, rear, and quad support wheelchairs, as well as wheelchairs specially designed for dogs with intervertebral disc disease (IVDD) and degenerative myelopathy.
K-9 Carts. K-9 Carts makes wheelchairs for dogs – as well as cats and even pet chickens! They also sell a wide variety of other assistive devices for handicapped dogs and offer wheelchair rentals.
Walkin’ Pets Dog Wheelchairs. Walkin’ Pets claims to have the biggest selection of mobility products for dogs in the world, including wheelchairs and slings, as well as assistive devices for blind dogs and pets with other disabilities.
Even dogs who are quadriplegic can benefit from a mobility-assistance device. This is especially helpful for letting the dog eliminate outdoors in a natural manner. Photo by Capuski, Getty Images.
If you’re handy with tools or have a friend who is, you can build your dog a custom-fitted wheelchair. Here is a good YouTube video that shows you how to make a dog wheelchair.
Tips for Best Results
Each of the founders of the dog-wheelchair companies listed below have a handicapped dog in their past – a dog whose disability sparked their interest in engineering a device that would preserve the dog’s independence and mobility. Each company took a slightly different design tack and has different opinions about what materials work best. But we found the following tips and suggestions reflected in varying but similar forms on each of their websites:
Have a realistic understanding of what a canine wheelchair can and cannot do for your dog. Advice from your veterinarian or a canine rehabilitation therapist can help you decide whether and how to proceed.
Consider your own involvement, for your dog will need help getting into and out of a wheelchair, you’ll have to help your dog learn to use it, and you’ll need to be with your dog when she’s out and about.
Study different brands and styles to compare their features, warranties, customer support, and reviews. Take your time deciding which model to try. Impulse purchases are not recommended here.
Compare features, such as how easily a wheelchair folds for storage, what accessories it features, and how easy it is to adjust for a better fit.
Choose a wheelchair that will be the right size, with a frame strong enough to support your dog but not too heavy for your dog to pull. Pay attention to tire size. Small tires aid maneuverability in tight spaces, but large tires are better for navigating rough terrain, which matters if you plan to hike with your dog. Air-filled tires provide a smoother ride but solid rubber tires can’t be punctured.
Take accurate measurements. This point can’t be overemphasized because success depends on a comfortable fit. Most wheelchair websites give detailed instructions for measuring your dog.
Learn what’s involved in receiving your dog’s wheelchair. Some assembly will be required, and you’ll have directions to follow. Be ready to report any missing hardware or assembly problems, and study manufacturers’ websites to see what support they provide, such as video consultations, phone chats, or other methods of answering questions and improving the wheelchair’s performance.
When is the right time to order a chair?
It’s never too early to learn about dog wheelchairs by visiting websites, watching videos, and reading reports so that if your dog needs assistance, you’ll be able to make informed decisions. If your dog’s mobility problems are likely to increase, most experts suggest investing in a wheelchair sooner rather than later, so that the transition to this mode of transportation is less stressful than if you wait for your dog to be incapacitated.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
