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Are Antlers Safe for Dogs?

A cute dog chewing on a hard deer antler that can damage its teeth.
The happy look on this dog’s face will disappear when that antler he’s chewing breaks a tooth or splinters and lodges in his esophagus. Do NOT give your dog antler chews! Credit: Hoard11 | Getty Images

The biggest risk to your dog from chewing on antlers is broken teeth. Commercially sold antlers, usually deer or elk, are extremely hard with an unforgiving surface, like a rock or concrete. Would you let your dog chew on rocks or concrete? Of course not!

No veterinary dental specialist will ever sign off on letting your dog chew antlers. Never. Broken teeth are painful for your dog and often lead to infection and tooth root abscesses. Fractured teeth frequently require surgical extraction, subjecting your dog to an expensive and painful procedure for something that is completely preventable.

Antlers Can Splinter

Antlers also pose a risk of cracking or splintering, thereby becoming a choking hazard, esophageal foreign body, or intestinal blockage. There are far better and safer choices for a dog dental chew.

Why Are Antlers Sold as Dog Chews?

Antlers do have some appealing traits that cause people to buy them and, since folks are buying them, manufacturers will produce them.

Antlers are long lasting. Your dog will not go through an antler in one sitting like they might a rawhide or other softer, ingestible chew. And dogs love them! They smell good. They taste good. And they bring out your dog’s inner wild canine. And they are more natural to the dog than, for example, a Nylabone, which appeals to many pet owners.

Safer Choices

Regardless of the positive aspects of antlers, there are plenty of safer choices for your dog to chew. Whether you choose to give your dog antlers to or not depends on the amount of risk you are willing to take. In my professional opinion, they are definitely not worth the risk.

Our Dogs Without Us

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Two adorable dogs relaxing on the furniture while guests at the author's house.
Dinah and Daisy: I’m sure these two are much happier with Pam than me – they are used to sleeping with Pam and spending time on a lap – but they weren’t depressed or unhappy at my house.

Last month, my sister-in-law, Leslie, took a 10-day vacation, leaving her little Rat Terrier, Alice, with my sister Pam for the duration. Leslie asked Pam rather than me, because, even though Alice has stayed with me before, this is a long visit, and Pam’s house is better set up for small dogs than my house, with a small-dog dog door to the tightly fenced yard, and dog stairs for the sofa and for the kind-sized bed that Pam shares with all the dogs. No dogs sleep with me, and my fences are adequate for big dogs, but 8-pound dogs could definitely find places to slip out, if they were inclined to do so. Alice would definitely be happier at Pam’s house than mine for 10 days.

Pam called me several times to relate how funny it was that Leslie was so anxious about whether Alice would be OK and how much stuff Leslie brought (food, treats, CBD treats in case she’s anxious, crate, bed, blankie, toys, chews). Leslie also called every few days to make sure all was well and that Alice wasn’t depressed or unhappy.

Pam’s reports, making fun of Leslie’s concern, were hilarious to me, because Pam hasn’t taken a single vacation without bringing along ALL of her dogs, for decades! I think the last time she went somewhere for even a single night without her dogs was my wedding in 1999. (I banned her dogs from my country wedding weekend, because one of the dogs she had at the time was a bitey, barky, ill-mannered jerk, and I knew she would be nonstop worried about his whereabouts and safety on the unfenced ranch property – with good reason! He was always up to something.)

Pam has somehow convinced herself that her dogs can’t possibly be safe or happy without her – but of course, I am aware that it’s Pam who feels anxious without her constant canine companions. And if Pam’s dogs were easy to travel with, I guess I wouldn’t have any opinions about the fact that she wants them with her – but two of her three dogs are not easy to travel with. Daisy, a 12-year-old Jack Russell-mix, gets really carsick and is also fairly barky. Dinah, a 10-year-old presumed Chihuahua/Dachshund-mix, is anxious 24/7, doesn’t like the car, hides from people she doesn’t know, and barks nonstop anytime Pam gets out of the car without her. (Her third dog, Lucky, a little terrier-mix I picked up as a stray and Pam later adopted from our local shelter, is actually a great little traveling companion.)

When Pam goes anywhere, she stays in hotels that accept dogs, pays the $15 or $20 or $30 PER DOG PER NIGHT fees they all seem to charge now, and eats meals in her room, because she can’t leave the dogs in the hotel room or the car, because they will bark and bark and bark. The whole thing – one carsick dog, one super-anxious dog, three barky dogs, a much higher hotel cost, and no meals in restaurants – just doesn’t seem worth it to me. I’d likely stay home!

So this was high-humor, indeed, that Pam thought Leslie was being anxious and worried about leaving Alice for 10 days. Every time Leslie called to see if Alice was still OK, Pam would call me afterward to make fun of Leslie’s worries, which were largely unfounded. (It was true that Alice is kind of high-strung and that she was a little sad and daunted by being one of four dogs instead of an only dog, and she competed strongly for solo lap-time at Pam’s house, starting a few bitch-squabbles with the other two girl dogs. However, overall she coped just fine.)

But we had a breakthrough: After Leslie got home and reclaimed an overjoyed Alice, Pam called me to say, “I know I was making fun of Leslie, but I also saw that Alice was OK without Leslie. I am thinking maybe I might take a weekend trip without Daisy and Dinah… if you’ll take care of them, and can promise me that nothing will happen to them!”

Yay! I was so glad for this news! I happily promised her the moon. I think I said I would even let her dogs sleep with me if they needed to.

Pam just took a trip to the coast with a friend, and brought just her one good traveler, Lucky. She spent two nights in a hotel and ate in restaurants (with Lucky in the car) and got to walk on the beach and go into art galleries and just generally enjoy herself without three crazy little dogs in tow.

A dog relaxes with a dog sitter during a stay over at her home.
My dog Woody at my sister-in-law’s house. He’s pretty comfy anywhere.

Her dogs were fine at my house. They ate their food (no hunger strikes), slept in their dog beds (didn’t whine to sleep with me), didn’t try to escape, and weren’t mopey. We took walks around my two-acre property and they ate chicken poop from my free-range hens and generally had a good time. I’m sure they’d rather be with Pam than me, but they weren’t depressed or whiny or whatever Pam imagined might happen. And Pam had a nice time, too! She had to admit it was so much easier traveling with just Lucky.

Pam and Leslie aren’t the only people I know who worry a lot about their dogs when they travel. But in my opinion, I don’t think it does dogs any favors to not help them learn to be comfortable in a variety of situations and in different people’s care. If something happened to me, and my dogs had to go live with other people, I don’t want them to be traumatized by my loss and by living with someone else. I know they would be just as happy living with Pam or Leslie, or my friend Leonora or my son… I know they love me and are happy with me, but I’ve also left them in all of those other homes for days and they adjust just fine! And that makes me feel good every time I do have to leave.

What about you? Are you OK with leaving your dogs with other people, and are your dogs OK, too? Or do you worry excessively?

Grieving Our Losses

A beloved senior dog standing by the roadside looking inquisitively at the camera.
Otto in his last spring, when I still thought he might make it to his 16th birthday.

This has been a rough year for me and many of my dog-loving friends; I’ve lost track of how many people I know who have lost one of their beloved canine companions. And every time I see another loss announced in my social media feed, it brings my loss back with a sharp pang. If you’ve lost a dog that you love as much as life itself, you know that pain.

Many of my friends’ dogs, like my darling Otto, were elderly. And while we all know that the death of an old dog is inevitable, and we may have even told our friends that we’re prepared for it, when death comes, our loss isn’t any less painful or easier to accept.

It’s far more shocking when a loss comes out of the blue. Cancer, especially that devil hemangiosarcoma, took several of my friends’ dogs. Often, they seemed as right as rain one day and had a dire prognosis the next.

At least we can talk to our friends and family about our grief – I think it helps. I know our other animal family members grieve, too, though I’m often at a loss as to what we can do for them. My 8-year-old dog Woody was a tiny puppy when he first met Otto; until June, he never knew life without his idol and leader. He’s been visibly depressed, uncharacteristically quiet, for months now. He walks with me to water the oak tree we planted on Otto’s grave; does he understand why Otto is buried there? We thought it would be comforting to have Otto buried on our property, but I have to admit that the very real possibility that Woody knows Otto is underground there haunts me.

They say that the pain of losing someone we loved is the price of all the joy they brought us. Heck, I’ve repeated this to my friends when they’ve suffered a loss; I know it’s as true as the fact that the sun will rise again tomorrow, or that I will love – and lose – another dog or three before I die. The more it hurts is directly proportional to the depth of the bonds we shared, the number of the experiences we had together, and the profundity of the things we learned together. What an honor! What a loss! Hang in there, friends; the love itself never dies.

Sending love and light to Otto, Raven, Lucca, Piper, Abbi, Prince, Sierra, Trixie, Lili, Gordon, Kaiser, Cinder, BlueBell, Buster, Grayson, Cheeru, and all those I can’t remember through my tears – so many good dogs! – and to the people who loved them – who still love them, even if we can’t still see them.

Umbilical Hernias in Puppies

Beautiful puppy dog lying belly up with a pronounced "outie belly button," showing an umbilical hernia in puppies.
This puppy’s “outie belly button” is an umbilical hernia. Credit: Tigrom | Getty Images

If your puppy has an umbilical hernia, it usually looks a lot like an “outie” puppy belly button. The umbilicus, or belly button, is where the umbilical cord attached to the puppy’s belly while he was in the womb. At birth, the umbilical cord is either broken or cut, and the hole in the puppy’s belly wall closes. When this hole doesn’t close properly it’s called an umbilical hernia. The reason it looks like an “outie” belly button is because fat from inside the abdomen pokes through the hole and creates the little bulge you can see under the skin.

Small Umbilical Hernias

Small umbilical hernias, under a half inch, rarely cause a problem. You can’t expect the hernia to go away, but it does not necessarily have to be repaired. Larger umbilical hernias should be repaired to avoid a situation where abdominal contents more vital than fat, like intestines, sneak out and become entrapped. If this happens, your dog will require emergency abdominal surgery.

Because it’s rare for intestines to get entrapped in puppy umbilical hernias, it’s usually OK to wait and have the hernia repaired when you have your puppy spayed or neutered. This way your puppy only goes under anesthesia once.

Monitor the Pup’s “Belly Button”

The hernia should be closely monitored in the meantime. Look at it and feel it every day. If your puppy’s hernia is “reducible,” meaning you can push the fat back into the abdomen easily, it should stay that way. If a previously reducible hernia is suddenly non-reducible, this could be a sign of trouble and a trip to the vet is warranted.

Signs that something bad, like entrapped intestine, is happening include the hernia area becoming hot, red, firm, larger than it was, and painful to the touch. Your puppy will likely be depressed, vomiting, and having abdominal pain. This is a surgical emergency, so get immediate veterinary help.

Why Is My Dog’s Nose Wet?

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A brown nose of Labrador close up. Chocolate Labrador retriever nose. Brown labrador.
A dog’s nose has a cobblestone appearance that helps keep the nose wet and enhances his ability to smell things. If the nose becomes dry, the dog will usually lick it to keep it moist. Credit: Bigtunaonline | Getty Images

Dogs lick their own noses, so the saliva coats the nose and leaves it wet. A wet nose strengthens your dog’s sense of smell, which is one of his most amazing senses. In a few instances, however, a wet nose can indicate something is amiss, such as a runny nose, which could be a symptom of a cold.

Normal Dog Nose

Your dog’s nose is a great asset. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell that they use to find food, identify friends and family, and sniff out anything from favorite toys to missing children to mushrooms in the woods.

Moisture enhances your dog’s sense of smell, which is why dogs tend to lick their noses frequently to keep them moist. The tiny cobblestone appearance of a dog nose also helps with this, as those little cracks trap both moisture and odors.

Your dog’s nose does not have to be wet all the time, though. If he is really active or is sleeping, his nose may be dry. This simply means that he hasn’t licked his nose recently. Whether wet or dry, a nose that has the classic cobblestone surface and is soft to the touch is a healthy nose.

Dog Cold Symptoms

While a damp nose is nothing to worry about, if the nose is so wet it is dripping, there may be something else going on.

If your dog has a runny nose, check out the consistency of the discharge and if he has any other symptoms. A small amount of clear, watery discharge is less concerning than goopy yellow-green discharge or a bloody nose. A runny nose can be caused by viruses, bacterial infection, allergies, a foreign body stuck inside the nasal passages, or nasal cancer.

Common dog “cold” symptoms include:

  • Lethargy
  • Cough
  • Runny or goopy eyes
  • Runny or goopy nose

If your dog has any of these symptoms, call your veterinarian. Keep your pup away from other dogs until he has recovered.

Can I Give My Dog COVID?

Woman lying sick on sofa with her dog
While science hasn’t proven transmission of COVID with dogs, the CDC recommends caution with all pets when you’re sick with COVID. Credit: ArtistGNDphotography | Getty Images

As winter approaches, a spike in human infectious respiratory illness is anticipated, including COVID-19. Many dog owners worry that if they contract the COVID-19 virus, can they give it to their dogs and how would they know if a dog has COVID. It’s not an easy question to answer, and research is a bit inconclusive and conflicting on some things.

While science has not yet confirmed canine COVID transfers, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention suggests caution, saying, “If you are sick with COVID-19 (either suspected or confirmed by a test), you should avoid contact with your pets and other animals, just as you would with people. Contact includes petting, snuggling, kissing, licking, sharing food, and sleeping in the same bed.”  (See sidebar for symptoms.)  Basically, the CDC is suggesting we play it safe.

What We Know About Canine COVID

There’s a lot scientifically unknown about dogs and COVID, including that we do not know for certain that ALL dogs exposed to the virus get ill from COVID-19. Most do not appear to be sick. If the dog does get ill, it is rare, mild, and self-limiting. Side note: Cats and ferrets are different in that they can show signs of illness.

COVID Symptoms in Pets

The Centers of Disease Control and Prevention lists these symptoms as possible in pets sick with the virus that causes COVID-19:

  1. Fever
  2. Coughing
  3. Difficulty breathing or shortness of breath
  4. Lethargy
  5. Sneezing
  6. Runny nose
  7. Vomiting
  8. Diarrhea

We do know that dogs develop neutralizing antibodies to COVID-19. This means that the canine immune system can recognize a COVID-19 virus as foreign and can mount an antibody response to fight the virus. While there are some diagnostic laboratories set up for COVID testing in animals with known exposure, since it is unlikely for dogs to infect people, this might not be necessary.

Dogs are thought not to shed the virus for a prolonged period, even if they test positive for antibodies to the virus. Research indicates that there is a narrow window of time in which samples can be taken for accurate testing, with confirmation of infection coming from serologic antibody testing. This makes the likelihood that dogs could transmit COVID-19 to a person low.

Care should still be taken handling the pets of infected owners because their coat could still contain infective viral particles shed by the owners, though the risk is much smaller than interacting with the actual sick owner. If a healthy person needs to handle the pet of a currently infected owner, handwashing afterward is a sensible precaution.

Laboratory Data

The serologic antibody testing in dogs has shown rates of infection of greater than 40% in infected households (Stevanovic 2021, Hamer 2021, Bienzle et al 2022). Testing of random populations of dogs show a low rate of antibody detected (0.2% to 3.4%). The random population could include leftover canine blood samples submitted to the lab for other testing. It is not likely to exclude dogs from households with a history of infection (Ito et al 2021, Patterson 2020, Smith 2021).

There is no vaccination for dogs against the COVID-19 virus. Since most dogs who are exposed do not get sick, it is unlikely that a canine vaccine will be developed.

As a final note, we do know that scent dogs can detect the virus in humans and have been considered for screening.

No Comment: High Profile Dog Biting Incidents Bring Baseless Speculation

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German shepherd dog with aggressive expression.
Even direct witnesses to a dog-bite incident will have different memories of what happened, and theories as to the cause. None of them may accurate! Photo by Nick Measures, Getty Images

In recent weeks, there have been (at least) three very high-profile events involving dog bites, causing much discussion and commentary from dog-training and behavior experts, and many concerned (and opinionated) dog owners. Each case made me cringe – not because of what happened, because such incidents happen much more often than they make the news – but because of all the Monday-morning dog-training quarterbacking that goes on after each one.

The best-known event concerned Commander, the 2-year-old German Shepherd Dog belonging to the President of the United States Joe Biden and the First Lady, his wife, Jill Biden. On September 26, CNN reported that Commander had bitten a U.S. Secret Service agent at the White House. Thanks to a Freedom of Information Act request, it was also learned that Commander had 10 previous bites already on his record when the most recent occurred.

In August, a widely shared social media post by a veterinary technician described an event in which a canine patient attacked the technician and the veterinarian she worked for in Hephzibah, Georgia, as they were about to examine the dog. The veterinarian suffered the most severe bites, with wounds to one hand and one leg that kept her from working for more than a month.

More recently, there was the case of a Border Collie who veered off course in the middle of an agility competition and attacked the judge, who was standing in the middle of the show ring. To the horror of the owner as well as the many competitors watching and waiting for their turn to compete, the Border Collie bit the judge several times deeply in the legs and hands.

Each of these incidents sparked dozens of opinion pieces and essays about should have been done and what should still be done with the bitey dogs. I’ve seen pieces online criticizing the dogs’ training, the equipment that was on the dog at the time of attack, and the wisdom of the mere presence of the dog in the environment where the attack took place. In most of these commentaries, the writer (or speaker, in the case of widely shared videos and podcasts) presumed to know what caused the attack, or what could have – should have – done to prevent it. Most of these commentaries were from people who heard or read about the attack, but some were from people who witnessed the attack (the agility competition had many witnesses).

Whenever there is a high-profile dog-bite case, many dog trainers and journalists see the event as an opportunity to educate the public about dog aggression, dog body language, dog training, dog selection, and so on. And I appreciate the impulse; sometimes, people are the most teachable when there has been a crisis that captures their attention and concern.

But here’s the problem with this tactic: While it may be helpful to try to educate people about dog behavior in general terms, using a newsworthy event as an example, no one who comments about an event like this can possibly discuss the cause or potential prevention of that incident with any certainty. You can ask multiple witnesses to an event – like the one with the Border Collie – and every single person will report having seen something different. People bring their own experience and biases to these reports; they can’t help it. Few, if any, of the Monday Morning dog-training quarterbacks will focus on the same issues: the dog’s stress, its health status, breed or breeding, handling, diet, gear, training methods, environment, reproductive status, performance calendar – you name it! People will have opinions about what the owner did wrong, the breeder did wrong, or about the breed itself. And none of what they say may be accurate.

The only people who can reliably explain what led to the event, and what should be done to prevent another one, are experienced, educated behavior professionals – preferably veterinary behaviorists, or a trainer who has a good rapport with a behavior-savvy veterinarian – who are engaged to study the dog and work with his or her owner. These cases may be complex and multifactorial – or they might be very simple! But only people who actually know and have examined the dog and have interviewed the owner, should attempt to offer explanations or advice regarding that dog.

The Best Family Dogs

A boy posing with his dog, a beagle
When looking for a kid-friendly dog, the breed is less important than the individual dog’s personality traits, as not all representatives of a given breed will display traits attributed to the breed’s reputation. Photo by Catherine Delahaye, Getty Images.

You can find a lot of opinions on the internet about which dog breeds are best for families – especially families with small children. But experienced trainers and educated behaviorists will tell you the truth: There are no best breeds for families and kids. Pick any breed with a highly family-friendly reputation and we can recall an individual of that breed (or several) who was far from safe with kids. If you are looking for a dog who will make a fantastic addition to your family, what you should be looking for is an individual with specific canine personality traits that are conducive to family life.

Best Family Dog Personality Traits

Rather than focusing on a specific breed, look for a dog who is friendly and outgoing, good-natured and confident, resilient, and easy-going (can be energetic but should be able to settle and relax).

If you’re adopting an adolescent or adult dog, also look for the dog who adores children, not just tolerates them – the dog who lights up with happiness when she sees a child: “Yay! The kids are here!”

If you’re adopting a puppy, look for the Goldilocks pup: not the fearful one who avoids contact with you and the kids, nor the pushy, climb-all-over-you puppy-mouthy-bitey one. The happy, friendly pup with a little bit of self-control is a good choice for a family with kids. If you are buying a puppy from a breeder, ask about how the puppy’s parents are with kids. (For further puppy-buying advice, see “Adopt or Shop,” WDJ August 2020.)

Breeds With a Family-Friendly Reputation

Still, there are some breeds that tend to display those desirable family-dog traits. You still need to evaluate individuals, but these breeds can be a good place to start:

  1. Labrador Retriever: Generally known as friendly and outgoing, these mid-sized dogs can also be high-energy so be prepared!
  2. Golden Retriever: Also mid-sized and high energy, also known to be friendly, outgoing, and devoted to their family.
  3. Rough Collie: I grew up with these wonderful dogs so I can personally attest to their suitability as family companions! They are often described as friendly, devoted, loyal, and affectionate.
  4. Newfoundland: On the giant end of the size scale, Newfies are reported to be sweet, patient, and somewhat less active than Labradors and Goldens. But they do drool… (See “Biggest Dog Breeds.”)
  5. Bernard: Another giant breed, Saints have a reputation as laid-back, affectionate teddy bears.
  6. Beagle: If you’re looking for a smaller model, Beagles tend to be cheerful, friendly, and curious. They are hounds, though, so it’s best to expect them to be a bit vocal.
  7. Basset Hound: Even more hound-y than the Beagle, these short-legged bayers are generally laid-back, friendly, and tolerant.
  8. Bichon Frise: These fluffy little guys reportedly tend to do well with kids and are said to be curious and playful.
  9. Cocker Spaniel: Not only cute, but also described as happy, gentle, peaceful, and patient dogs who can be good with kids.
  10. Dachshund: These long, little doggies are described as curious, friendly, spunky, and generally good with kids. Their long backs are prone to injury, so do not let your children pick them up!

In addition to specific breeds there are oodles of mixed-breed dogs out there just waiting to find their perfect families, so keep your options open and always remember that personality traits are more important than breed when you’re looking for the perfect family dog.

Why is my dog peeing blood?

Golden retriever peeing in winter time
Caption: More cases of blood in the urine are brought to veterinarians in winter in snowy climates than any other time and place – but only because the snow makes it easy to see that the dog’s urine is not the healthy yellow color that it should be. Photo by cunfek, Getty Images

As a veterinarian living in snowy upstate New York, during the winter months, I see an uptick in the number of dogs brought to my clinic because they were peeing blood. This isn’t because dog suffer more from hematuria (blood in the urine) in the winter; it’s because the snow on the ground makes it easy to spot the color of the dog’s urine! And when that normally yellow spot is red instead, it can be quite alarming to the dog’s owner.

There are several conditions that can cause blood in your dog’s urine. Let’s look at the different causes and how each one is diagnosed and treated.

Bacterial Infection

Dog bacterial infections, specifically, bladder infections (also known as urinary tract infections or UTIs) and kidney infections (also known as pyelonephritis) can cause bloody urine. Of the two types of infection, bladder infections are far more common, especially in female dogs.

Female dogs are more likely than male dogs to develop bladder infections at some point in their lifetime due to their anatomy. Female dogs have a much shorter urethra than male dogs, meaning that bacteria have less distance to travel from the outside world to the bladder.

The most common bacteria implicated in bladder infections is Escherichia coli (E. coli), a normal part of the bacteria flora in the colon that is present in a dog’s stool. In female dogs, where the poop comes out is just north of where the pee comes out. This makes it easy for bacteria to cross the bridge between the anus and the vulva and travel upstream through the urethra to the bladder.

Other common bacteria that cause bladder infections are part of the normal skin flora. Female dogs who have a hooded vulva or who have less than ideal hygiene of the coat and skin around their vulva are more likely to develop bladder infections. A hooded vulva is where the vulva is partially covered by an extra fold of skin.

Kidney infections can develop from one of two routes. Bladder infections, if left untreated, can develop into kidney infections. This occurs because bacteria in the bladder can travel up to the kidneys through the ureters, the tubes that carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder.

The second method by which a kidney infection can develop is from an infection elsewhere in the body outside the urinary system. This is called a systemic infection – where bacteria travel through the bloodstream to the kidneys and take up residence there.

Dogs with bladder infections may strain to urinate or may urinate more frequently. They may also have urinary accidents in the house. They continue to eat and drink normally and typically have a normal energy level. Dogs with kidney infections tend to be much sicker. They are lethargic, eat less or not at all, may drink more water than usual, and may also vomit or have a fever.

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog may have a bladder or kidney infection, she may order a urinalysis to look for bacteria in the urine, and blood tests to examine your dog’s kidney values and white blood cell count. If bacteria are found in your dog’s urine, then a sample of your dog’s urine should be submitted to the laboratory for urine culture and sensitivity. This identifies the type of bacteria causing your dog’s infection and determines which antibiotic is appropriate. A urine culture and sensitivity takes about three to five days to complete, so your dog will be started on a broad-spectrum antibiotic pending the results of this test.

Uncomplicated bladder infections are typically treated on an outpatient basis with an oral antibiotic and pain medication. Kidney infections typically require hospitalization with intravenous fluids and antibiotics until your dog is eating and no longer vomiting.

Stones and crystals

Bladder stones and crystals in the urine can cause bloody urine. Crystals are microscopic structures with sharp edges. When thousands of crystals join together, they create a bladder stone. Some bladder stones are smooth and others have a hard, spiked surface.

Crystals and stones in the urine circulate in the bladder like a snow globe, causing microtrauma to the lining of the bladder. This causes the lining of the bladder to bleed, resulting in bloody urine.

Dogs with bladder stones or urinary crystals will act much like dogs who have a bladder infection. In fact, many dogs with bladder stones or urinary crystals will have a concurrent bladder infection.

The presence of urinary crystals can be detected on routine urinalysis. Treatment for urinary crystals will depend on the type of crystals present. If your dog has crystals in his urine, your veterinarian may recommend imaging to look for stones in your dog’s bladder and urethra.

Some dogs will have bladder stones but may not have crystals detected on their urinalysis. This is because the production of urinary crystals can be transient, not constant. If other causes of bloody urine have been eliminated, then your veterinarian will recommend imaging to look for bladder stones.

Some types of bladder stones are radio-opaque (can be seen on routine x-rays) and others are radio-lucent (are not easily seen, if at all, on routine x-rays). Struvite, calcium oxalate, and xanthine stones are radio-opaque. Cystine and urate stones are radio-lucent. Veterinarians remember which stones cannot be seen on routine x-rays with the mnemonic “I can’t C U!”

If your veterinarian is highly suspicious that your dog has bladder stones but cannot find any on routine x-rays, then she may recommend either an abdominal ultrasound or a cystogram. With abdominal ultrasound, the ultrasound waves wrap around bladder stones, creating a unique shadow on the image of your dog’s bladder.

A cystogram is a series of contrast x-rays of the bladder. The bladder is first emptied of urine and then filled with gas (usually room air or carbon dioxide), then contrast dye, then emptied and filled with air again. An x-ray of the bladder is completed after each step. This allows any bladder polyps, tumors, congenital abnormalities, or radio-lucent stones to be seen that would otherwise not be seen on conventional x-rays.

Struvite stones can often be dissolved by feeding a prescription urinary diet, such as Hills c/d or Royal Canin Urinary SO. Dissolving struvite stones can take weeks to months of feeding exclusively the prescription diet. Meanwhile, your dog will continue to experience pain, bloody urine, and will be at increased risk of developing a urethral obstruction. A urethral obstruction is when a stone becomes lodged in the urethra and your dog can no longer urinate.

Other types of stones typically require surgical removal through a procedure called a cystotomy. There are non-surgical and minimally invasive surgical techniques for removing bladder stones. However, other than voided urohydropulsion, these methods require specialized training and equipment and are only available at a limited number of hospitals throughout the country. Voided hydropulsion can be completed by a general practitioner that has been trained in the technique but is limited to removing very small stones and is often limited to female dogs.

After bladder stones are removed, your veterinarian will submit the stones to the University of Minnesota Urolith Center for stone analysis. Once the stone analysis is complete, recommendations will be made regarding your dog’s diet and potentially medications to minimize the risk of developing bladder stones in the future.

Polyps, pockets, and tumors

Bladder polyps are typically benign growths that originate from the lining of the bladder. These polyps bleed readily and can cause bloody urine. Bladder polyps are diagnosed by ultrasound or cystogram; they are not readily seen on routine x-rays.The treatment for bladder polyps is surgical removal.

A pocket or pouch in the bladder – such as a vesicourachal diverticulum – is usually a congenital malformation that has been present since birth. Sometimes a bladder diverticulum can be acquired later in life. Urine collects and is retained in this outpocketing, leading to urinary incontinence and recurrent UTIs. Chronic UTIs can cause cystitis, or a thickened and inflamed bladder. Both UTIs and cystitis can cause bloody urine.

The treatment for a malformation of the bladder is surgical correction of the defect. A sample of the removed pouch is submitted for a urine culture and sensitivity to determine the correct antibiotic for the dog. Dogs receive an antibiotic for about four weeks post-surgery.

Tumors of the bladder and urethra can be either malignant or benign. The most common malignant tumor of the bladder and urethra is transitional cell carcinoma (TCC). Benign bladder and urethral tumors are much less common in dogs. Tumors of the urinary system are typically diagnosed by ultrasound.

The treatment for bladder and urethral tumors is surgical resection. Some tumors cannot be surgically resected because of their location or size. Medical treatment with a medication called piroxicam may improve a dog’s quality of life if the tumor cannot be removed.

Prostate disorders

Disorders of the prostate can cause bloody urine in both neutered and intact male dogs. Male dogs with prostate disorders are more likely to strain when defecating than urinating. They may also have thin, ribbon-like stools. Prostate disorders cause enlargement of the prostate. Unlike in human males, a dog’s prostate tends to grow outward, not inward, putting more pressure on the colon and rectum than the urethra. This is why dogs with an enlarged prostate have more difficulty pooping than peeing.

Prostate disorders that affect primarily intact male dogs include benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH), prostatic abscess and prostatitis (prostate infection), and prostatic cysts. Treatment for these disorders include both medical and surgical management. Neutering these dogs helps involute, or shrink, the prostate.

Prostate cancer can affect both intact and neutered male dogs. The most common form of prostate cancer in the intact male dog is adenocarcinoma. Neutered male dogs see an increased prevalence of transitional cell carcinoma (TCC), the same type of cancer that can affect the bladder. Unfortunately, prostate cancer in the dog is usually advanced by the time it is detected, making the prognosis for this condition poor.

Other causes for blood in the urine

Other causes for bloody urine include pelvic fractures or blunt-force trauma to the abdomen, coagulation disorders, and the recent administration of cyclophosphamide (a chemotherapy drug for treatment of lymphoma). Kidney disease, diabetes mellitus, and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) can also increase the risk of developing cystitis and therefore bloody urine.

With proper diagnostics and treatment, the cause of your dog peeing blood can be found and, in most cases, treated. If your dog’s urine looks pink or red, have him or evaluated by your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Download The Full November 2023 Issue PDF

  • Ataxia Attack
  • Dietary Fiber For Dogs
  • Getting Dressed? Yes!
  • Canine Cataracts
  • Drop It Right There, Pal
  • Take Your Dog Shopping
  • Looking For Librela
  • The Wrong Class?
  • No More Nipping
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Xylitol Poisoning

A dog sticks its head into a paper shopping bag looking for items.
You might not think there is anything that might be remotely attractive to a dog in that shopping bag or your purse, but if it smells good, any dog might be tempted to taste some sugar-free mints or gum – with potentially deadly results. Photo by Jaromír Chalabala, Getty Images

You’re picking up the bag you left by the front door only to discover that the tub of sugar-free gum you keep in your bag is laying on the floor, emptied of its contents. Your dog is sitting nearby with conspicuously minty breath. A flood of panic comes over you – and it should, because if that sugar-free gum contains xylitol, your dog may be at risk of dying from xylitol toxicity.

The symptoms of xylitol poisoning can start within 20 minutes. Signs include:

  • Vomiting
  • Decreased activity level
  • Weakness and collapse
  • Difficulty walking or standing
  • Shaking or seizures
  • Coma
  • Liver failure
  • Bleeding problems

Xylitol is a sugar substitute known as a sugar alcohol. It can be found in many different household items toxic to dogs. Including sugar-free gums and mints, adult and children’s chewable vitamins and supplements, baked goods, mouthwash and toothpaste, cough syrup and other liquid medications, and even some brands of peanut butter.

How xylitol affects dogs

Xylitol stimulates a dog’s pancreas to produce large quantities of insulin. Insulin is the hormone that allows glucose (sugar) to be taken up from the bloodstream and into the body’s cells. A sudden large influx of insulin causes so much glucose to be taken up by the cells in a dog’s body that his blood glucose drops to dangerously low levels. This is known as hypoglycemia.

Hypoglycemia from xylitol ingestion can occur quickly, often within the first 10 to 15 minutes of ingestion. Low blood sugar can cause ataxia (wobbly gait), vomiting, tremors, weakness, and seizures. Untreated xylitol ingestion can progress to coma and death.

Xylitol can also cause liver damage when ingested in high quantities. Dogs with xylitol-related liver damage may develop difficulty clotting. This can cause bruising and internal bleeding.

Treatment for Xylitol Poisoning

If your dog has ingested xylitol, your veterinarian will recommend that your dog be hospitalized on intravenous fluids. He will need to receive intravenous dextrose (a form of sugar) and have his blood glucose levels monitored every two to four hours. Dogs who have ingested xylitol are typically hospitalized for 24 to 48 hours until they are able to maintain a normal blood glucose without dextrose supplementation.

Dogs who develop xylitol-induced liver damage require more intensive care. They often require one or more transfusions of fresh frozen plasma – a blood product that contains proteins and clotting factors but not red blood cells – to replace the clotting factors their livers are not able to produce. They also are given medications to help support and protect their livers from further damage. Dogs with xylitol-induced liver damage are typically hospitalized for three to five days and sometimes longer, depending on their response to treatment.

If your veterinarian is not able to provide round-the-clock care for your dog, she may recommend that your dog be transferred to an emergency and critical care hospital. Upon transfer, your dog will be hospitalized in an intensive care unit in order to receive continuous monitoring and dedicated nursing care.

Dogs who receive quick intervention and appropriate treatment for xylitol ingestion have a good chance of a fast recovery. Dogs who develop xylitol-induced liver damage will have a prolonged recovery that may require medications and follow-up bloodwork for a month or more following discharge from the hospital.

What to do if you think your dog ingested xylitol

You just found an empty tub of sugar-free gum on the floor. Don’t panic! And follow these steps to ensure the best for your dog’s health and safety:

  1. Look at the ingredient list on the label. If xylitol is listed, proceed to step 2. Otherwise, breathe a sigh of relief and hug your dog.
  2. Do not induce vomiting at home with hydrogen peroxide unless directed to do so by a veterinarian. Hydrogen peroxide has been shown to cause inflammation of the esophagus and stomach ulcers in dogs. Your veterinarian can induce vomiting with a much safer and more effective drug.
  3. Call ASPCA Poison Control at (888) 426-4435 and take your dog to your veterinarian or the nearest emergency hospital immediately.
  4. Upon arrival at the veterinary hospital, tell the staff what and how much your dog ingested, the poison control case number you have been provided by ASPCA Poison Control, and any medications your dog is taking or medical conditions he has.
  5. Your veterinarian will induce vomiting to recover as much of the gum as possible. On average, only about 60% of ingested product is recovered from vomiting.
  6. Your veterinarian will contact a toxicologist at ASPCA Poison Control using the case number you provided and formulate a treatment plan specifically for your dog.

 

Why do I need to call poison control if my dog ingested xylitol?

We know that xylitol is toxic to dogs. So why do I need to contact poison control if my dog has ingested a product containing xylitol?

Although xylitol may be in a product’s ingredient list, the amount of xylitol is not specifically listed on the label. You may notice an entry for “sugar alcohol” on the nutrition label. Most products that contain xylitol also contain other sugar alcohols, like maltitol and sorbitol. These are not toxic to dogs but are included in the total gram count of sugar alcohols on the label. This means that we cannot rely on the amount of sugar alcohol on the label to tell us how much xylitol a product contains.

The amount of xylitol a product contains can vary by flavor. For example, the popular sugar-free gum Ice Breakers has a wide variety of flavors. Each gum flavor contains a different amount of xylitol. Therefore, a dog who ingested strawberry daiquiri flavored Ice Breakers may have received a different dose of xylitol than a dog who ingested the grape flavored Ice Breakers.

Raspberry Icebreakers gum containing xylitol
Many people are under the false impression that only mints and minty gum contains xylitol, but there are many sugar-free gums and candies that also contain xylitol and pose a danger to dogs.

ASPCA Poison Control maintains an extensive database of potentially toxic products and the amount of toxin each product contains. This organization is staffed by veterinary toxicologists, veterinarians, and licensed veterinary technicians that have been trained in toxicology. The information and advice they provide is constantly being updated based on the latest science, toxic product information, and medical knowledge about our pets.

When you and your veterinarian consult with ASPCA Poison Control, they formulate a customized treatment plan tailored to your dog and the toxin he ingested. Your veterinarian will also be able to follow-up with an ASPCA toxicologist during the course of your dog’s treatment. There is an initial consultation fee charged by ASPCA Poison Control that covers creating your dog’s customized treatment plan and any adjustments to that plan.

The level of treatment intervention may vary depending on how much your dog weighs, how much xylitol he ingested, any medications your dog receives, and your dog’s current health condition. The amount of xylitol-containing product recovered from making your dog vomit, how long it has been since your dog ate the product, and whether or not your dog is already showing symptoms of xylitol ingestion will also influence the treatment plan.

If the amount of xylitol your dog ingested is within a certain range, then your dog may only require monitoring and treatment for hypoglycemia. But if your dog ingested an amount that is known to potentially cause liver damage or failure, then it may be recommended to begin interventions to protect your dog’s liver before the damage or failure becomes clinically apparent.

Contacting ASPCA Poison Control when your dog has ingested a xylitol-containing product is one of the best things you can do to help your dog!

 

How Old Is My Dog in Human Years?

Closeup image of a yellow labrador retriever dog carring a stick in forest near Cluj-Napoca, Transylvania, Romania
Caption: A study with Labrador Retrievers changed the way we compare dog years to human years. Credit: Stefan Cristian Cioata | Getty Images

Many of us wonder how old our dog is in human years, sometimes using it as a gauge to decide how our dog must feel compared to our own aging bodies. The old standby is that one year of a dog’s life equals seven years in a human’s life. It’s easy to do mathematically, and it does give you a ballpark idea, but it’s no longer considered accurate, especially for younger dogs.

According to a 2020 study from the University of California at San Diego, the seven-year equation needed to be refined. Very simply put, the researchers used DNA changes to determine that a 1-year-old dog would be equivalent to about a 15-year-old person. This fits with puberty coming about that age for many dogs.

At the age of 2, the study showed dogs are comparable to around a 24- or 25-year-old human, a change of about nine human years.

After that, the USCD plan shifts to about five human years for each dog year.

However, there remains a discrepancy with toy breeds, who often hit 17 or 18 years of life, and giant breeds who are often elderly at 7 years or so. So, while this new method of calculating dog years into human years is based on scientific research, it doesn’t (yet!) compensate for the breed or size differentials in lifespans.

The Supporting Research

The USCD study included 104 Labrador Retrievers spanning a 16-year age range. The researchers scanned the dogs’ DNA patterns for comparison and used the rate of the methylation changes in the dogs to match it to the human epigenetic clock (biological aging). They then proposed a new formula of comparing dog years to human years for dogs over the age of 1. Much of the research on aging (in any species) looks at how DNA ages, particularly methylation, as this study did. The genes controlling this change in DNA appeared to be similar for both the Labrador Retrievers in the study and humans.

The study is fascinating, and you can access it as a beautifully illustrated report with charts of the study.  The study conclusions were accepted by the American Veterinary Medical Association and most veterinary professionals support the findings.

The Dog Aging Formula

The study’s math is a complicated formula, requiring you to be able to calculate your dog’s age in natural logarithm (not how many years he’s been alive), multiplied by 16, plus 31. Using this formula, a 6-year-old dog would be equivalent to a human who is 59.7 years old, instead of the old method that would compare the dog to a 42-year-old human.

While most of us aren’t going to do the math, other examples of how this works out include a 7-week-old puppy being similar to a 9-month-old baby (with both of them teething at that age), and the average Labrador (who lives to about 12 years of age) correlating to a 70-year-old human (the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention say the average lifespan for humans is 76).

Health Matters to Dog Aging

An undisputed fact in lifespan calculations is that for all dogs – and humans, too, for that matter – keeping your dog fit, trim, and active, while practicing appropriate preventive health care and feeding good nutrition, is the best way to give your dog a long, full life. Of course, genetics do matter, so it helps to get a dog whose pedigree includes dogs who lived long lives, if you can obtain that information.

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