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Reinforcing Your Dog’s Training Throughout His Lifetime

It wasn’t so bad, really, as behavior slips go. My dog Otto woofed at a kid at close range. The kid thought Otto was playing; I knew that Otto was scared, and I mentally smacked myself for being inattentive. I was taking pictures at a dog park, and Otto had been happily playing with the other dogs as I worked. I hadn’t noticed that a small boy – perhaps five years old? – had entered the park and had started chasing the dogs around.

Practicing Reliable Recall

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We can certainly debate the wisdom of having small children in dog parks (I hate to see them there; it’s much too easy for them to get knocked over or even attacked in a moment of arousal). But the fact is, I wasn’t paying enough attention to my dog – and frankly, it’s because I sometimes take it for granted that he’s generally so well-behaved. He’s not perfect, though; no dog is. (No people are, either.) And so I should have been – should always be – more vigilant.

I’ve mentioned before that Otto is a little spooked by kids. He’s also afraid of cars, garbage trucks, and the gardeners who service some of the yards in our neighborhood. My husband and I joke about a scenario in which Otto was kidnapped as a puppy by a garbageman and then abused by gardeners and their kids before being tossed out of a moving car. It’s a joke because I know that it’s more likely that a young dog who is fearful of certain things is more likely to lack experience and exposure to these things than to have been abused by them. People always say, “Oh, he must have been abused by a man in a hat!” I say, “He probably never saw, and met, and was given treats from a man in a hat!”

Back to the kids, though. I take every opportunity possible to expose Otto to kids. I carry treats on every walk we take, and if we so much as see a kid at a distance, I practically make it rain hot dogs. “Oh, Otto! Look, kids! Good boy! We love kids, don’t we?”

If the kids are interested and (most importantly) under control, I ask them if they would like to give Otto some treats; I ask Otto to sit and offer a paw first, and then he takes the treats very gently. If the kids look impulsive or twitchy, however, I’m quick to keep Otto at a distance, and feed him some treats myself.

Unfortunately, my own son is 18 years old, and my closest niece (only one year old) is an hour away; I don’t have the resources for practicing that I used to, in terms of kids I know and can trust to behave around a wary dog. It was so easy when my son was little, and his friends were always over, and we were always going to soccer and baseball games and practice! Kids galore! Now I need to hire some. Or something!

Never get complacent about training
The thing is, Otto has been doing so well for so long. He’s got a rock-star, rock-solid recall: fast, enthusiastic, completely trusting that coming to me right away is the most fun thing ever. It practically brings tears to my eyes, it’s so pretty. I can (and have) called him away from a running feral cat, a skunk (eating a bowl of cat food left out for said feral cats), and even a loose dog that started chasing us. (Otto started to hold his ground, but the dog looked scary, and I thought we’d be better off farther from what appeared to be the dog’s home. And sure enough, he stopped chasing us after half a block.)

Yes, in each of the cases where his recall was tested, I was walking with Otto off-leash. We can do that in our tiny town in the off-hours; we rarely see anyone else on the streets or trails before 7 a.m. and after about 8 p.m. It’s quiet, there is no traffic, but mostly we can do this because we practiced, practiced, practiced that whole first year we were together. We practiced recalls in the yard, we added distractions (another person bouncing a ball, say), and then we moved to a neighborhood park on a long-line. When Otto’s recall was solid on a long-line in the park (and no one was around) I’d take off the long-line and practice some more. Then we started the process on trails. We’ve built that recall brick by brick.

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He failed – that is, I failed – only twice that I remember. In each case, I raised the criteria too soon; I expected him to resist temptations that he hadn’t had much practice resisting, and I didn’t have a long-line on him to prevent him from being rewarded by the fun of his misadventure. (Both times, he was off-leash and spotted a feral cat alongside the trail. The cats were safe; they dive into a blackberry bramble that only tiny animals can get in and out of.)

After each failure, we had to do a lot of remedial work on that section of trail. At first we worked on a short leash, and I gave him an “Off!” cue, to get him to look away from the cats (or the places where the cats usually hang out) and look at me. I marked (with a clicker or a verbal “Yes!”) and gave him delicious treats each time he looked at me.
Soon, I no longer had to cue the “Off!” He would glance toward the cats, and then look at me, knowing he had earned a treat. He really liked chasing the cats the two times that he was able to, so he’s never going to be a dog who will pass by the cats while staring at me fixedly, like a dog in an obedience show ring. But he just glances, and then looks at me for his treat. And I think that as long as it continues to be more rewarding for him to pass the cats than it is to chase them, he’ll resist.

We walk a lot – if not daily, then at least several times a week. So it’s no wonder that his on-leash and off-leash walking skills are so good. But kids! We need more work with kids. I’m not sure what we’re going to do about that. I do my best to take advantage of the chance meetings we have with kids in public, but I just don’t have regular access to some reliable kid volunteers.

Whiffed the woof
Back to the woof. As I said, I wasn’t looking at Otto when I heard him bark at something at the dog park; I turned around to see him trotting away from a young boy. His tail was wagging, but he looked a little alarmed. The boy, too, looked uncertain for about a second, and then he ran off in pursuit of another dog. Although Otto was already coming toward me, I called him and gave him a treat, then snapped his leash on and asked him to sit. Then I looked to see who was with the boy. It wasn’t that hard; his dad was retrieving the boy from chasing another dog.

I approached them to a distance of about 10 feet, and said, “I’m sorry, I didn’t see what happened when my dog barked at your son. Is he okay?” I could see that he was okay, but I was curious to get some information about what exactly had transpired. The dad said, “He’s fine. He was just running up to your dog and it looked like your dog got scared.”

I said, this time to the boy, “Yeah, buddy, sometimes dogs are scared of kids! Next time, maybe you should hold still and let the dog come up to you! That way you won’t scare him. You know, sometimes scared dogs bite!” And then, because I could see that the boy was already losing interest in this conversation, I said, “Do you want to see Otto do some tricks? And you can throw him some cookies when he does his tricks?”

I asked Otto to sit and stay, and approached the boy, handing him a few cookies. Then I stepped back over to Otto and told him, “Down.” “Okay, throw him a cookie!” The cookie didn’t land all that close, but Otto got it. Then I said, “Point your finger at him and say ‘Bang!’” Otto really enjoys this “playing dead” trick. The only problem is getting the “dead” dog to stop wagging his tail and rolling his eyes mischievously. It still delighted the boy, though, and he was happy to toss a few more cookies before we took our leave.

I did what I could to salvage the situation, but really, it was another “fail” for me. I wasn’t watching my dog closely enough to protect him from a situation that had the potential for leading up to a dog bite. I allowed my dog to be approached by something he is afraid of, in a scary way, and to actually become scared enough to give a warning woof. Talk about “past threshold!”

So, like I did after my off-leash training failures, I’m going to have to find some kids and that I can instruct so I can set up some remedial socialization sessions for Otto.

Does this sound like I’m taking all this too seriously? When I was a kid, nobody talked about “socializing” their dogs, and most of the dogs we knew were just fine with kids. What’s the big deal? At risk of sounding old, when I was a kid, it was a different world. The only dogs I knew who weren’t free to run around my rural neighborhood were either hunting dogs or watchdogs; kids knew not to fool around with any of those dogs. And all the ones running loose in the neighborhood (the ones that weren’t hit by cars!) were extremely “good with kids.” That’s because they were constantly exposed to kids!

I want my dog to be as rock-solid with kids – and every other type of person – as he is at resisting the urge to chase cats. So we’re going to have to practice.

Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ. She adopted Otto from a shelter on June 13, 2008.

Toxic Blue-Green Algae Can Be Deadly to Your Dog

It’s that time of year again – when news reports start coming out of dogs dying after swimming in or drinking from ponds, lakes, and reservoirs polluted with toxic blue-green algae. The component of the algae that produces toxins is called cyanobacteria.

Three dog deaths in July have been attributed to toxic algae at Grand Lake St. Marys in Ohio, but the problem can occur anywhere. In past years, reports of toxic algae blooms have ranged from California to Maine, and Canada to Florida, as well as the UK.

Blue-green algae thrive in warm, shallow water. While algae may be present throughout the year, it is only when there is an extensive “bloom” that problems occur. Most blooms occur in late summer or early fall, but they can occur earlier as well, particularly when the weather is unusually warm and dry. Toxic algae can be blue, bright green, brown, or red.

Signs of toxicity in dogs may start with lethargy, followed by vomiting and diarrhea. Tremors and seizures can occur almost immediately. Additional signs range from excess salivation, skin irritation, and pale gums to severe respiratory, circulatory, or neurological disorders. Convulsions and death can occur as little as four hours after exposure. Treatment may include fluids to prevent dehydration, diazepam (Valium) to control seizures, atropine to counteract the poison, charcoal to absorb toxins from the stomach, and adrenaline to help counteract respiratory failure.

Prevention is the best course of action. Keep your dogs away from stagnant water in warm weather, particularly if you notice any of the following:

 

  • The water looks like green paint or pea soup, or is cloudy with a green, yellow, or blue-green hue.
  • It smells swampy or musty.
  • You see what looks like foam, scum, or mats on top of the water.

 

If contact occurs, prevent your dog from licking his feet or coat, and wash him off thoroughly with clean water as soon as possible. If you suspect problems, contact your vet immediately. If your dog becomes ill, be sure to notify authorities so that warning signs can be posted to protect other pets and people.

More information:

Blue-green Algae and Harmful Algal Blooms

www.pca.state.mn.us/water/clmp-toxicalgae.html

San Francisco Bay Area resident Mary Straus has spent more than a decade investigating and writing about canine health and nutrition topics for her website, DogAware.com.

(Proper Greetings #2) Good Greetings Make Good Neighbors

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There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. Here’s what you can do when your dog jumps on people:

Manage. When you know your dog is likely to have trouble controlling himself, put his leash on before he can jump on someone. When you see the jumping-up gleam in his eye, restrain him to prevent the reinforcement he gets from the initial contact. Other useful management tools to prevent reinforcement include strategically located tethers, baby gates, doors, exercise pens, and crates.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Proper Greeting: Stop Your Dog from Barking and Jumping when the Doorbell Rings.

YOU Are Your Dog’s Advocate!

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While visiting my own dog, post-surgery, at a large specialty & emergency veterinary clinic recently, I met a woman and her very sick dog. He had been a patient at the clinic for two days: He was lethargic, not eating, and running a high fever.  The diagnosis? An adverse reaction to vaccination.

It turns out the woman had adopted the dog, who was probably two or three years old, a year prior. With a year gone by, it was time to take her dog to the veterinarian for a checkup. The veterinarian wanted to vaccinate the dog; she inquired about running antibody titers instead, and was told “no.”

The clinic proceeded to vaccinate her dog with a 5-in-1 vaccine (distemper, adenovirus, Leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus), the influenza vaccine, and the rabies vaccine, all at the same visit. As the woman related this information to me, she crinkled her nose.

Clearly, her instinct had been that this was unnecessary… that perhaps this was too much. And she did try: she inquired about running an antibody titer test in lieu of vaccinations. But the vet said no.

I don’t know what happened to her dog, whether he made a recovery or not. What I do know is this woman learned a costly lesson, and I can only hope that her dog didn’t pay the ultimate price. It is up to us to advocate for our dogs. If we are uncomfortable about the care a veterinarian proposes, we need to speak up. Particularly in the case of vaccinations, we have lots of leeway in terms of their timing; in most cases, there is no harm in postponing an adult vaccination for a short while.

I am not against vaccinations. But I am against a one-size-fits-all approach to veterinary care. And as long as that attitude exists, it’s more important than ever that we are advocates for our dogs’ health.

See the August 2010 Issue on Over-Vaccination – Dog Owners Beware.

(Puppy Basics #1) – Keys to Bringing a Puppy Into Your Home

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The key to bringing a puppy into your home is to think things through well before the big day.

Most people spend months preparing for the arrival of a new baby. They’re just as likely, however, to bring a baby dog home on a whim, without any preparation at all. Small wonder they find themselves playing catch-up for weeks, months, years, or even “getting rid of” the dog as they struggle to recover from the mistakes made in the pup’s formative months. The wise puppy-owner-to-be puts much thought into pre-puppy preparation.

There’s lots of puppy stuff you’ll need to make your puppy comfortable, happy, and successful as he learns to adapt to your alien environment. Here’s a short list to get you started:

Crate – facilitates housetraining and prevents puppy misbehavior.

Puppy pen/exercise pen – expands the “den” concept of a crate to a slightly larger area.

Tether – intended to temporarily restrain a dog for relatively short periods of time in your presence.

Collar, ID tag, leash, and harness

Seat belt – Use a restraint that fastens to your car’s seat belts and your dog’s harness (never a collar).

Clicker – use as a reward marker.

Treats – A clicker, of course, is nothing without an accompanying reward.

Long line – the long line is an ideal tool to help your dog learn to come reliably. 

Kong toys – a chew-resistant (not chew-proof), rubber toy with a hollow center.

Balls, interactive toys, fetch toys.

Grooming tools – Choose combs and brushes appropriate for your dog’s type of coat.

House cleaning tools

For more details and advice on pre-puppy prepartion, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Puppy Basics.

Why is Nancy Kerns excited about the new WDJ website?

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 Welcome to the new WDJ website! I’m excited about it, and here are the top five reasons why:

 

  1. All current subscribers who are registered for access to the site (it comes free with your subscription, you just have to register and select a login name and password) can now access ALL of WDJ’s past content. No more paying for that back issue that you loaned to a friend and never got back and now really need!

 

  1. When you read a current article in the online version, links are provided for past articles that we reference in the text. So, as an example, in our July 2010 issue, we have an article about the Delta Society’s recent decision to disallow raw-fed dogs from its therapy dog programs. In the article, we mention that feeding dogs coconut oil can help inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria in and on that dog, and we reference an exhaustive article we published about the many benefits of coconut oil for dogs: “Crazy About Coconut Oil:How Coconut Oil Benefits Your Dog’s Health,” WDJ October 2005. Voila! In the online version, you can click on a link that will take you to that very article so you can read more about how to find coconut oil, what the best sources are, and more. Links to related items are included with each article.

 

  1. Searches for back articles are easier than ever. In the “search” box, type key words from the article you’re trying to find or the topic you are interested in. The results will appear in reverse chronological order – most recent ones first – in a list, with the title and first paragraph of the article, and the issue in which the article appeared. Maybe you are looking for a certain article on calendula. You type in “calendula” into the search box. The search returns 26 different articles that mention calendula… But you are looking for an entire feature on the helpful herb, one that ran within the past few years. Well, because the articles are sorted with the most recent first, you can easily see that we’ve run two feature articles on calendula in the past three years: One in April 2008 called “Calendula: Herb of the Year,” and one in February 2007 about “Calendula and its Ability to Treat Your Dog’s Skin Problems.”  Note that searches for more common topics may yield a broader range of results. In such cases, you may get better results by using the “Advanced Search” function, entering your terms in the “Exact Phrase” box.

 

  1. Back issue archive is easier to view, especially for the issues from July 2009 forward. For these most recent issues, a thumbnail of each cover appears. I don’t know about you, but I often remember which issue an article is in from just a glance at the artwork on the cover. Under “Resources” (on each page) click on “Back Issue Archive.” You can click on any cover to see what was in that entire issue.

 

  1. It’s easier to find the link to the service you need for your subscription, whether you want to know how many issues you have left on your subscription, you need to change the address your subscription is sent to, you need to activate your free online access, or anything else. Click on “customer service,” in the upper right corner, and there are a number of options to click on that should solve any problem you’ve been having.

(Healthy Skin & Coat #1) Dog Grooming and Canine Skin Care Tips

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The primary function of the dog’s hair is as a protective and insulating coating.

But if the eyes are the gateway or the window to the soul, the skin and hair are both gateway and window to the embodiment of an animal’s inner health and well-being. Shiny hair, that is, a hair coat that exudes a healthy and lustrous sheen, is an indicator of overall health of the animal. In contrast, a dull coat that lacks luster is an indicator that the animal isn’t as healthy as she could be.

Changes in the texture or appearance of a dog’s coat are an indicator of something going amiss within, but haircoat changes are not specific for any one disease or condition. Dull or brittle hair can be caused by a dietary imbalance, or it may be due to diseases of digestive, hepatic, renal, thyroidal, immune, or parasitic origin. Alterations of hair typically appear rather late in the course of the disease, as hair growth is rather slow; it usually takes at least four weeks of disease progress before changes are noticeable in the hair. And it typically takes four or more weeks before a dietary supplement will have any positive effects on the quality of the hair.

For more information on what your dog’s skin and coat are telling you, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Healthy Skin & Coat.

Emergency Recalls

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I’m a huge fan of the Tour de France. I install cable every July just so I can spend every early morning for almost a month watching dramatic racing as well as absolutely stunning aerial views of France (and sometimes the neighboring countries that the race visits).

But there is one sad certainty of every Tour: At some point, a leashless dog runs across the road, right in front of the racers.

Sometimes the dog gets hit, but more often, it’s the bicycle racers themselves that take the brunt of the accident as they swerve and hit the brakes. They fly through the air at high speed, hitting the pavement with gruesome injuries. Almost always, the dog walks away in one (although bruised) piece. The real victims are the hopes and dreams and a year of training for the riders who are injured badly enough to have to quit the race.

This year’s first canine-caused accident happened on the first stage of the Tour. At kilometer 55 (of 223 total kilometers, or more than 138 miles), a dog that appeared to be a small Golden Retriever ran out into the road just in front of the peloton, or main group of riders, who were traveling at about 23 miles an hour. Boom! Riders went down, shaken, bruised, and scraped. The announcers said later that the dog was okay.

This year’s first Tour/dog incident made me wonder: Why do people bring dogs to crowded, hot, loud, stress-packed places? And why don’t people leash their dogs in such a place?

It also makes me want to remind people of the importance of teaching their dogs an emergency recall – and practicing it frequently, keeping their dog’s response fresh and sharp. In almost every Tour de France dog crash I’ve ever seen (in seven years of fandom), the camera catches sight of the dog about three seconds before the cyclists come into contact – and the dog is invariably wearing the international posture and expression of “Uh oh, I’m in trouble with my owner.” At this point, you know that the owner just noticed the dog on the road, has bellowed the dog’s name, and maybe even made one final dog-handling error: he or she is dashing toward to the dog in an effort to grab it. When a dog looks like this (lowered ears, head, and body; tail tucked), it doesn’t matter if he’s running away from his owner, apprehensive about a potential imminent punishment, or is slinking fearfully toward his owner; the fact is, he’s not doing the one thing that could save him from getting hit by a speeding cyclist: running keenly and speedily toward his owner and off the road. Short of a leash (duh), only a well-honed emergency recall can prevent canine and cyclist carnage.

For more in building a better recall, see the following Whole Dog Journal articles:

Teaching a Reliable Recall,” December 2008

Teach Your Dog to Run Off-Leash,” July 2007

Training Your Dog to Come When Called,” December 2005

Building Off-Leash Reliability,” March 2002

(Crate Training #2) – Dog Crating Do’s and Dont’s

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A crate, or, in other words, short-term close confinement, can be used to help dogs teach themselves two very important skills. The first is eliminating only when and where it is appropriate. The second skill is keeping out of trouble – behaving appropriately in the house. Without these two skills, a dog doesn’t have much of a chance in this world.

A crate is not a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don’t yell at him, throw him in the crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down.

For more details and advice on crate training please refer to Crate Training Made Easy.

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Keeping Hot Dogs Cool This Summer

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It’s hot here in Northern California. And it’s just the start of a two-month annual period of the extremely high-temperature, dry weather we get here in the northeastern Sacramento Valley. I’m not crazy about it, but my dog Otto REALLY seems to hate the heat. Once the mercury hits 90 or so, he finds the coolest, darkest place he can find to hide out from the heat.

In his first summer – we adopted him in mid-June 2008 – Otto almost wore out his welcome with my husband even before his temporary ID tags had faded. The dog spent the first week digging down into any cool, moist place he could find – which happened to be under plants we were watering and inside of raised flower and vegetable beds we had painstakingly planted. Fortunately, I had been trained by the best – WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller – and knew that we had a management problem, not a training issue, on our hands. I could see that Otto was just trying to get cool, so we needed to give him a “legal” place to do so.

(Why not let him in the air-conditioned house, you might ask? Because we don’t have one! We have a house, of course, just not one with air conditioning. In my office, I have what is locally known as a “swamp cooler” — more accurately called an “evaporative cooler.” It’s a powerful fan that pulls air through moist mats of aspen shavings and forces it through your home; you have to crack some windows or a door to let air escape. When it’s running Otto is welcome to join me as I work, but when I’m not in the office, he has to find other options.)

Otto’s best defense against the heat is his sandbox: it’s 4 feet by 6 feet and filled about 10 inches deep with nice clean sand, and situated in the shadiest corner of the yard. I wet the sand when I’m watering the garden in the morning, and Otto knows just how to dig a nice hole for himself and hide out in the damp sand throughout the day.

We have to alter our usual daily schedule out of deference to the heat. Throughout the rest of the year, I often take Otto along when I walk, or take my mountain bike for an afternoon ride on our abundant local trails; now, it’s just too hot for vigorous exercise at any time other than close to dawn and well after sunset. That is, too hot for a hot dog – people are still out running and riding bikes, but it’s just too hot for dogs, who are much closer to that egg-frying pavement, and barefoot to boot! We take our longest walks at night, and take more frequent, short trips to the river, where Otto loves to wade back and forth through the shallow water. (I’m hoping in this, his third summer, he finally gets comfortable with swimming. He loves the water, but only when his feet can touch the ground. When the water gets too deep for that, he looks panicky and heads for shore.)

I usually feed Otto twice a day, but in the heat, he really loses his appetite. We’ve switched to a once a day schedule, and I feed him late at night, when it’s cool. Only then will he dive into his food with gusto. When it’s hot, he just picks. OF COURSE, I make sure he’s got many sources of cool water – bowls in my office and the house, and a big bowl and a deep bucket outside. And I change the water frequently, making sure he’s got lots of incentive to drink as much as he needs.

What are you doing to keep your hot dogs cool? 

When Your Dog Refuses To Walk On A Leash

It’s frustrating and embarrassing when your dog puts on the brakes and refuses to move. If he’s small you can pick him up and carry him; although that might not be the best training solution, at least it gets you out of there and you can save face. But what if it’s a Great Dane, a Newfoundland, or any breed – or combination of breeds – that’s too big to be portable? Whether your dog is giant or tiny, here are five things to do when your dog gets stuck in neutral:

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1) Evaluate possible medical problems: Your dog may be in pain or otherwise not feeling up to par, and the last thing she wants is a jaunt around the block. If your dog refuses to move routinely, or even occasionally – not just once – it’s time for a trip to the dog doctor to look for a physical reason. You don’t want to force her to walk if she’s hurting.

2) Look for environmental aversives: Pavement gets painfully hot on warm sunny days – enough to cause considerable discomfort. Prickly weed seeds, sharp stones, sometimes even tall or wet grass can be aversive. (Dog boots can protect paws from surfaces that cause discomfort.) Maybe your dog is just hot and trying to stay in a shady spot! Be sensitive to aversive environments you can avoid; walk your dog morning and evening on very hot days. Conversely, maybe he needs a down jacket or more indoor exercise on frigidly cold winter days.

3) Consider fear issues: A temporary environmental aversive can create a negative association with the location where it occurs. Maybe your dog stepped on a bee and got stung, or a loud scary noise happened at his sticking spot. If his body language tells you he’s worried or fearful (head down, looking away, ears back, leaning back, perhaps even showing a whale eye and trembling), you’ll need to counter-condition at the place (or places) where he shows fear. (For in-depth information on counter-conditioning, see “Reducing Your Dog’s Anxieties,” WDJ April 2007.) Even better, identify specifically what causes his fear, and counter-condition that stimulus in a safer environment first, before trying it on a walk.

If he puts on the brakes as you approach the car, something about the car may be aversive. Counter-condition! Perhaps there’s a reactive dog behind a fence. If your dog gets sticky as you approach a barking, growling, berserk dog behind a fence, he may not be comfortable being barked and snarled at as you walk past. Cross the street, and then counter-condition to convince him that a snarling dog makes chicken fall from the sky, and/or arrange with your neighbors to have their dog indoors when you’re going to walk your dog.

4) Reinforce movement: If you always click and treat your dog for sitting when you stop, she may decide that stopping gets reinforced. Spend lots more time clicking for movement. If she does get stuck, avoid luring to get her unstuck, so she doesn’t learn to put the brakes on in order to get you to bring out the treats.

5) Do stuff she loves: These four tips are good for prevention and diagnosis. But what do you do in the moment, when your dog won’t move?

Do something that she loves, to get her mind off being stuck and get happy about moving. If she gets happy about targeting, play-target in a direction she is willing to move (usually back the way you came from). When she’s acting playful, target forward in the direction you want to go. Play a simple “Find it!” game, by tossing treats on the ground in the direction she’s willing to go, and then repeat the game in the other direction. Play with a ball, play tug, play any games that get her happy and moving. If it’s safe to do so, put her on a long line and run past her, fast, to the end of the line to see if she’ll chase happily after you. (Don’t use your “come” cue; do use random happy chatter).

If she gets stuck going home on walks because she’d rather stay out and have fun with you, backchain going home (start close to your front door and gradually move farther and farther away). Each time you arrive home, have a fantastic play party with her favorite toys and games so she eagerly looks forward to going home and having fun.

Pat Miller, CPDT-KA, cdbc, of Fairplay, Maryland, is WDJ’s Training Editor.