Have you ever wondered whether the information on your dog’s food labels is accurate after all not every dog food label is clear about the food’s content.? If so, welcome to the club! We fret about this sort of thing, too – and sometimes, our worries turn out to be well-founded.
There are a host of laws that regulate pet food labels, the broadest one being the Food and Drug Administration’s Federal Food Drug and Cosmetics Act, which requires all food labels – pet food included – to be truthful.
Other FDA regulations for the label require proper identification of the product (the contents must match the label); a net quantity statement (amount of food inside the package is accurately described on the outside); the name and place of business of the manufacturer or distributor; and proper listing of all the ingredients in the product in order from most to least, based on weight.
The FDA also reviews specific claims on pet food, such as “maintains urinary tract health,” “tartar control,” and “improved digestibility,” to make sure that the company wishing to make those claims can provide evidence that the statements are supported by sound scientific research and testing.
Believe it or not, there are also state and federal laws that address the point size of the type that can and must be used for various parts of the label, the location of various bits of information on the label, and even the adjectives that may be used to describe the food.
Pet Food Police – Not!
Sadly, we all know that laws are useless if there is no surveillance or enforcement. State feed control officials bear the responsibility for monitoring pet food labels and testing products to make sure they are accurately labeled. By all accounts, some states have well-funded programs, with vigilant feed control officials who consistently review pet food labels and routinely pull samples to test. However, other states have virtually zero surveillance and testing – unconscionable when you consider that pet food companies must pay each state for a permit, with fees based on tonnage sold, wherever their products are sold.
If they find something illegal on the label, or pull a sample and determine that the product is not accurately labeled, state feed control officials can order a “stop sale” of the product in their own state and/or fine the company for the infraction. Again, in some states, this happens frequently; in others, never.
In the states where pet food surveillance, testing, and enforcement are alive and well, feed control officials are mainly focused on whether the products are labeled truthfully, and whether testing confirms the accuracy of the guaranteed analysis (GA).
Even in the states with a reputation for strict surveillance, however, it’s rare that pet owners will ever learn about failed tests or enforcement actions taken by state feed control officials. If labeling infractions are found or testing reveals that the GA is inaccurate, officials and pet food companies almost always resolve the issues without ever notifying the public.
Guaranteed Analysis of a Dog Food Label
The GA is important to pet owners and regulators because it’s where the macro-nutrients of chief concern to pets are quantified. By law, only four items are required to be listed on a pet food’s GA: The minimum amounts of protein and fat; and the maximum amounts of crude fiber and moisture. Minimums of protein and fat are used, because, from a dog’s standpoint, these are the significant components of the food – and from a dog owner’s perspective, they comprise a goodly share of what you are paying for.
Crude fiber and moisture are expressed in maximum percentages, since both are nutrient-free (though they do have functions in the formula).
The numbers given for crude fiber and moisture are nearly always perfectly accurate. But dog owners should be aware that the minimum amounts listed for protein and fat are just that: the minimum amount that is in the food. Sometimes, the actual amount is far higher. This isn’t a huge problem for most of us, but owners of dogs who need to have scrupulously restricted fat in their diets (such as dogs who are prone to pancreatitis) should never trust the amount listed on the GA alone.
Why don’t the pet food companies use more accurate numbers on the GA? It’s partly to make sure that the products won’t fail a test of the minimum amounts of protein and fat, and partly to account for variations in nutrient levels in their raw ingredients.
If your dog needs a restricted fat diet – or maybe you just want to test the professionalism of your dog’s food maker? – contact the food company and ask for the actual amounts of protein and fat in your dog’s food. Every company should be able to provide this information for every product they make; after all, the products are tested for these levels during the production of every batch. We wouldn’t recommend buying products from any company that can’t or won’t provide this information.
Some companies list both the guaranteed analysis (what the product is guaranteed to contain) and the “nutrient analysis” (the actual amounts as confirmed by lab tests of a typical batch) for all of their products on their websites. This consumer-friendly strategy is ideal.
Where’s The Beef?
We’ve often been asked whether there is any way to know that the ingredients that are listed on the label of a pet food are really in there. There is! In recent years, lab tests have been developed that can identify specific animal proteins and grains.
We were interested in running some of these tests the moment we learned they existed, but our ardor cooled when we learned the cost of the tests – prohibitive for even the most motivated consumer – say, someone who owned a valuable dog who is seriously allergic to beef or wheat. We consoled ourselves that the out-of-our-reach tests were not necessary; we’ve always assumed that the risk of bad press for a pet food company who could be caught in the act of cutting corners or handling its ingredients in a sloppy way was far greater than any benefit of doing so.
But then this happened: An article appeared in the October 2012 issue of Petfood Industry magazine, authored by Laura K. Allred, PhD, president of ELISA Technologies, Inc, which happens to be one of the labs capable of such testing. In the article, Dr. Allred described animal protein and grain identification tests conducted by ELISA Technologies on 21 commercial dog foods. The results shocked us:
Eight of the foods tested positive for an animal protein not listed on the ingredient label. (For example, a food was found to contain beef, but the label did not indicate beef was in the formula.)
Two of the foods claiming to contain a certain animal species tested negative for that species. (As one example, a food claiming to contain venison contained no venison.)
Five foods with no gluten source listed on the label were found to contain gluten. This included two foods that were specifically labeled as “gluten-free” (in addition to not having a gluten source listed on the label).
None of the products tested, including the products that were caught with inaccurate labels, were identified in the article. And the article, written for an industry audience, included lots of helpful suggestions for how a pet food maker could avoid what were assumed to be accidental contaminations or production errors in the future, in order to “more confidently guarantee both the safety and authenticity of their products.”
Of course, we drew a different conclusion: That we absolutely have to find the money in our budget to order a bunch of tests of various foods. We looked up the prices – and were thrilled to learn that the cost has dropped quite a bit since we last checked. We’re choosing products to include and getting samples ready now. And you can bet that we will report the full results of every test we order.
Most dog owners are aware that Collies and other herding breeds may be sensitive to ivermectin, used for heartworm prevention and to treat certain parasites. But did you know that these dogs can also be sensitive to a number of other drugs, and that other breeds can also be affected?
It’s been known since 1983 that ivermectin can cause neurologic toxicity in some, but not all, Collies. In affected dogs, toxicity is caused by doses of ivermectin that are 1/200th of the dose needed to cause toxicity in normal dogs. Symptoms of neurologic toxicity can include uncoordination or loss of balance (ataxia), depression, disorientation, excess salivation, pupil dilation, nystagmus (abnormal movement of the eyes), blindness, tremors, recumbency (inability to get up), coma, respiratory compromise, and even death.
But the next big accomplishment in gaining an understanding of exactly what was responsible for the toxic effects of ivermectin in some dogs came in 2001, when Katrina Mealey, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, DACVCP, at Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine, identified a mutation in the MDR1 gene that causes ivermectin sensitivity. The discovery led to WSU’s development of a test that can detect the mutant gene, so that dogs who are susceptible to this toxicity can be identified.
The MDR1 Mutation Test
Dogs can have either two copies of the defective gene (homozygous, double recessive), or one defective gene and one normal gene (heterozygous). Dogs with two copies will be most severely affected. Dogs with one copy are less sensitive (able to tolerate a higher dose before adverse effects are seen), but they are more sensitive than normal dogs.
Further research revealed that dogs with the MDR1 mutation are sensitive to a number of different drugs, not just ivermectin. Melissa Best, DVM, who went to veterinary school at WSU, explains, “MDR stands for ‘multidrug resistance.’ The protein encoded by this gene is P-glycoprotein (PGP) and is an important protein for keeping potential neurotoxins from entering the brain. The MDR1 mutation means that this protein is improperly coded and cannot do its job.”
The MDR1 mutation allows drugs to build to toxic levels in the brain, and is now referred to as “multidrug sensitivity.” Toxicity may occur from a single high dose or frequent low doses of problem drugs. Topical application of certain drugs can also cause toxicity, and the effects may last longer, but it generally takes higher doses.
The discoverer of the mutation of the MDR1 gene and establishment of testing procedures, WSU is the sole patent holder for the test to detect the mutant gene. The test requires only a simple, non-invasive cheek swab that you can collect yourself and send to WSU’s Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology Laboratory (VCPL). The test costs $70, with a discount for more than four dogs. It can be performed on any dog, including mixed breeds, at any age after weaning. The test will identify whether a dog has one or two copies of the defective gene. It takes about two weeks to get results.
Heartworm Preventives and the MDR1 Mutation
All heartworm preventive medications can affect dogs with the MDR1 mutation, including ivermectin (Heartgard), milbemycin (Interceptor, Sentinel), selamectin (Revolution), and moxidectin (ProHeart, Advantage Multi). The very low doses used for heartworm prevention, however, should not cause any harm, even to dogs with two copies of the defective gene.
“I don’t know of any homeopathic or naturopathic alternatives to these drugs, particularly for heartworm,” says Dr. Best. “While I am very pro-holistic care, the risk of death from heartworms is greater than the risk of the drugs (especially at the low doses used for prevention). I recommend using commercial heartworm preventatives under the direction of a veterinarian.”
The higher doses of these medications that are used to treat demodectic mange, sarcoptic mange, ear mites, and other parasites, however, should be avoided in all affected dogs. Generic ivermectin preparations such as Ivomec 1% solution should not be given to affected dogs, as the potential for toxicity from the wrong dosage is too great (the instructions on many websites result in dosages at least 10 times too high). Long-acting injectable products such as ProHeart 6 may also be problematic for affected dogs.
Toxicity can also occur from eating the manure of other animals, such as horses or sheep, after they are treated for parasites with products containing ivermectin. Pesticides with ivermectin used to treat a home or yard may cause toxicity if an affected dog is exposed to the area afterward.
Ivermectin has the most potential for toxicity. Dogs with normal MDR1 genes can usually tolerate oral dosages as high as 2,500 mcg/kg of body weight before signs of toxicity are seen, while dogs with two copies of the defective MDR1 gene can tolerate only up to 100 mcg/kg of oral ivermectin. No toxicity was seen when affected dogs were given 28 to 35.5 mcg/kg monthly for one year. (For comparison, Heartgard contains 6 to 12 mcg/kg.)
Toxicity has been seen in affected dogs receiving oral doses that were 30 times the heartworm preventive dose of moxidectin and 10 times the regular dose of milbemycin. Selamectin caused toxicity at 2.5 times the recommended dose when that amount was given orally, but higher doses are tolerated when the product is applied topically, as directed. Other avermectins can also cause toxicity, including doramectin (Dectomax), eprinomectin (Eprinex), and abamectin.
Spinosad, a flea-control medication included in Comfortis, Trifexis, and other products, increases the risk of neurological toxicity even in normal dogs when combined with high doses of ivermectin (and possibly other drugs) used to treat parasites. While theoretically safe, use caution when combining Heartgard or other ivermectin heartworm preventive drugs with products containing spinosad for affected dogs. Do not combine high doses of ivermectin with spinosad for any dog.
Other Drugs and MDR1
Some additional drugs are known to cause problems for dogs with the MDR1 mutation, while others are suspected to be problematic. A few drugs affected by PGP appear to be safe to use in normal doses. “There are many known drugs which are pumped out of the brain by p-glycoprotein,” says Dr. Best. “However, not all seem to cause toxicity in mutant dogs. Clearly more research is needed to understand the mechanisms at work.”
Drugs that are known to affect or may affect dogs with the MDR1 mutation include some used to treat cancer, pain, parasites, bacterial infections, diarrhea, vomiting, and anxiety, as well as pre-anesthetic drugs. In addition to ivermectin, the most commonly used problem drugs are acepromazine (Ace), butorphanol (Torbutrol, Torbugesic), and loperamide (Imodium). Most of these drugs require a prescription, but loperamide, an anti-diarrheal medication, is available in over-the-counter preparations.
MDR1 Breeding Considerations
Ideally, only dogs with no copies of the MDR1 mutation would be used for breeding. This may not be feasible or even optimal in some cases, however, particularly in heavily affected breeds, where the rest of the gene pool would be too limited, which leads to other problems. Any dog with the mutation may pass it along to their offspring, but dogs with just one copy of the mutation can also produce normal puppies, particularly when bred to dogs that do not carry the mutation at all. In this way, the population of affected dogs can be reduced through subsequent generations.
What To Do
Even if you don’t plan to breed, all dogs from affected breeds should be tested for the MDR1 gene for their own protection. Mixed-breed dogs from affected breeds or whose parentage is unknown should also be tested, as it’s impossible to tell for sure just by looking at a dog what its ancestry might be.
Before the genetic test became available, vets often repeated the adage, “White feet, don’t treat!” as a reminder that such dogs might be at risk, since many herding breeds and mixes have white feet. This is not reliable, however, as some dogs with white feet may have normal genes, and dogs with non-white feet may be affected by the mutation. Dr. Mealy recommends testing all mixed-breed dogs with unknown breed status, as one exposure to a drug to which they are sensitive could be fatal.
“The biggest problem I have seen with MDR1 mutants is accidental exposure by owners who were unaware of the problem,” says Dr. Best. “I have seen several dogs die from this problem after being exposed to ivermectin products.
“The worse case that I saw where the dog survived was an Australian Shepherd from Montana who became exposed after licking up a dollop of dewormer that had dropped out of a horse’s mouth when the owner was deworming it. The dog was flown on a private jet to WSU, with a private vet tech hired to breathe for the dog, as he was severely affected by the time he had been brought to his veterinarian (within hours of exposure to the drug).
“That patient was on a ventilator for nearly two weeks and eventually made a full recovery, however the bill was well over $10,000 and not everyone can fly a dog to a referral center on a private jet! I have also seen dogs become affected who ate horse manure after the horses had been dewormed with Ivermectin.”
If tests show that your dog is affected by the MDR1 mutation, or if your dog could be affected and has not been tested, make sure that your vet is aware of potential drug sensitivity. You may want to give your vet a copy of the list of drugs from the VCPL website to include in your dog’s file. Be sure to remind your vet of the situation any time that your dog needs to be anesthetized or sedated so that the wrong medications will not be given.
If you use any drug that might cause toxicity, start with low doses and gradually increase the amount that is given over a few days as long as no adverse side effects are seen. Continue to monitor your dog closely for signs of toxicity, particularly when the drug is given daily, as chronic toxicity caused by cumulative effects could develop.
If your dog shows signs of toxicity after applying a topical product, immediately bathe your dog with soap to remove as much of the product from the skin as possible.
If your dog ingests a topical product or if you see signs of toxicity after giving oral medication, contact your vet immediately. If ingestion was recent, your vet may induce vomiting and give activated charcoal. Further supportive care, including IV fluids and ventilation, may be needed if signs are severe. Dogs may recover if supportive care can be offered for long enough, but it can take days or weeks before enough of the drug breaks down on its own. “Sadly,” says Dr. Best, “Because we have no way to get the neurotoxic drugs out once they are in the brain, most dogs are not able to be saved once we recognize a toxicity problem.”
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
It’s that time of year again: making a list and checking it twice. Many of us include animal-related charities on our gift list. But how do you choose which ones to support? There is no shortage of good causes. Here are some guidelines for how to evaluate an organization as a potential recipient of your hard-earned dollars.
It may seem obvious but the first thing to contemplate is whether the cause – and the approach to it – is something you believe in and are passionate about. There are so many pleas for funding that sometimes we can get caught up in the immediate emotional moment, especially when faced with horrific images or stories; that can be an effective tactic to raising money. We hope to purge the haunting images of abused, neglected dogs in dire circumstances by sending off a check. But how do you know whether your check will actually alleviate any animal suffering?
Research, Research, and More Research Think about your specific goals for your contribution. For example, let’s say you want to contribute to an organization that addresses pet overpopulation. There is a wide spectrum of approaches to this very issue, so you should think hard about how you would like to see the problem addressed. You could contribute to the actual costs of spay and neuter programs, or rescue organizations, or education programs!
When you’ve found the type of cause(s) near and dear to your heart, obtain as much information as you can about the organizations you might support. A charity’s website is a good place to start. Read about the organization’s goals, accomplishments, and challenges. Look for its mission statement; it should be a concise and vivid expression of the group’s purpose, and provide an overview. Who’s running the show? Review the credentials of the key staff members and board members; if it’s a 501(c)(3) organization and thus able to receive tax-deductible charitable contributions, there must be a board of directors.
Next, look at how the organization determines the need for its services and programs. Does it have targeted goals? Who benefits? How are these goals monitored and evaluated? How does the organization report results (short-term and long-term)? Are reports clear, understandable, and supported? Do they reflect the stated mission? How do they share the results of your donation?
Ideally this information will be readily available; if not, ask for it. Most organizations are more than willing to discuss their programs. That said, I recently crossed a couple charities off my list of prospects when I called for more information and the individuals I spoke with weren’t able to answer my questions and no one returned my call as promised. An important hallmark of a good charitable organization is its transparency in all aspects of its operations (not to mention good donor relations).
Follow the Money Next, as much as you may hate this idea, it’s important to take a look at any charity’s financial reports. Many organizations post their financial information on their websites. If the organization is exempt from income tax, they are required to annually file Form 990 (see side bar) with the Internal Revenue Service. These forms are open to public inspection and must be made available to potential donors upon request. If the organization is not required to file Form 990 – and thus is not a registered 501 (c) (3) non-profit – request copies of their financial reports. A good organization will be able to provide some sort of financial report – an accounting of its income and expenses. If an organization can’t or won’t share these with you, then don’t share your money with them – they can’t account for it.
A good guideline to look for among efficient charities is an expenditure of 65-75 percent (or more) directly on a charity’s programs and 25-35 percent (or less) on fundraising and administration expenses. While successful organizations should allocate the majority of funds to providing programs and services, remember when reviewing salaries that they still need to recruit and retain talented people while attempting to keep administrative costs reasonable. When reviewing fundraising expenses, keep in mind that it costs money to raise money, but this should not be the reason for the existence of the organization.
Examine the details of the fundraising ratio: the amount raised compared to the amount expended. Consider that ratios can be higher than ideal due to special circumstances such as being a new organization (and thus having higher expenses than an established entity) or advancing a new cause. A group with a high fundraising ratio may actually have increased revenue (spends more to make more), which in turn allows it to do more.
Large organizations are sometimes criticized for their lobbying, fundraising, and administrative expenses. They often defend this by saying that because they are large and receive bigger revenues, they can spend a lot of money and as a result can accomplish the large goals that smaller organizations don’t have the resources to tackle. Again, compare your goals to theirs. It’s a mismatch if, for example, it’s most important to you to increase the adoption of homeless pets, and the organization spends a relatively small amount on its “boots on the ground” programs in favor of legislative reforms.
If possible, review the financials for a minimum of the past three years. Look for organizations that are able to grow their revenue at least at the rate of inflation, continue to invest in programs, and save money for a rainy day.
Many Giving Options Donations can be made to anyone or any type of organization you desire: individuals, private organizations, for-profit organizations, or not-for-profits. If you want the donation to be tax deductible, however, verify that the organization has been designated as a 501(c)(3), proving it is organized and operated for charitable purposes. This is the U.S. Internal Revenue Code for tax-exempt status and is regulated by the U.S. Department of the Treasury through the IRS. It allows for the federal tax exemption of non-profit organizations, specifically those that are considered public charities (receiving most of their income from the public or the government), private foundations (receiving most of their income from investments and endowments and using that money to award grants to other groups), or private operating foundations (donating most of their assets directly to the causes rather than awarding grants to other charities).
To qualify, an entity must be organized and operated exclusively for religious, charitable, scientific, testing for public safety, literary or educational purposes, or to foster national or international amateur sports competition, or for the prevention of cruelty to children or animals.
Be aware that some organizations doing “charitable” work may not have obtained not-for-profit status for any number of reasons; it doesn’t necessarily mean that the group doesn’t have a worthy cause. Ask the same questions you would of a not-for-profit and then make your decision. Understand, however, that donations made to individuals or to any organization that is not registered as a not-for-profit are not tax-deductible.
Charity Navigator (charitynavigator.com), GuideStar (guidestar.com), and the Better Business Bureau’s Wise Giving Alliance (bbb.org/us/Wise-Giving) are great resources for helping donors make informed decisions; they do a lot of the legwork by evaluating and reporting on major charitable programs and often offer downloads of the charities’ relevant documents (such as the 990 forms).
Big, national charities may be the most persistent in asking for help, but consider local organizations working to effect change in your own backyard, such as shelters and rescues. These organizations often struggle with small budgets, and can make even small donations go a long way.
What if you want your money to go toward a specific program or even a specific dog? If there’s a particular disease that has touched your dog’s life, consider donating to university research programs targeting that disease; these programs are often the first to find new treatments and cures.
While the IRS does not allow tax deductions for donations made for a specific person, there are organizations that are set up to help direct funds to individual dogs. One such organization, Magic Bullet Fund, allows for tax-deductible contributions to be made to a specific dog battling cancer that has registered with them. Donations made for a dog’s treatment are held in reserve for that dog; the funds are redistributed to the General Fund if they cannot be used.
If you have a substantial amount to give, meet with the organization in person to direct how you want your donation to be used. You may be able to create and fund a specific program or even specific research. Providing for your favorite animal-related charity in your trust or will is another option.
Donor Beware It’s not a good practice to give out your personal information to any organization representative who calls you, comes to your door, or approaches you on the street, soliciting a donation. If it’s a cause you’re interested in, contact the organization directly. This ensures you are dealing with the organization itself and not a fraudulent entity posing as a charity; and if you do decide to donate, you’ve eliminated a possible middleman and all of the contribution will go directly to the organization. Do not give cash.
It has become common practice in modern fundraising for charities to share, swap and sell their donor lists. If you don’t want your name on these mailing lists, request that your information not be shared.
Research to see if the organization has been mentioned in any news reports that might link them to questionable practices; also research individual executives. The organization itself might not be addressing any of these issues, but negative publicity is difficult to hide in these days of information-sharing.
If you donate over time, be sure to periodically evaluate whether or not the organization is still in line with your interests; missions can shift over time and you may want reconsider. I had to do this when I learned that one of the advisory board members of a charity that I had donated to regularly supported an industry that was in direct opposition to what I thought the organization stood for. I asked a representative of the charity for an explanation of this contradiction, but the rep either couldn’t or wouldn’t even try to explain. I concluded that the advisory board member probably donated a lot of money to the charity – a lot more than I ever could – and that the group had more interest in him than in small donors like me.
I continued to receive solicitation calls even though I had informed the organization that I would no longer donate to the charity as long as that person was still on the charity’s advisory board. One phone solicitor told me that I should overlook my concern because of all the good things the organization did. After I politely informed the caller that this incongruency made me suspect the group’s true mission, I was removed from all of its solicitation lists. Don’t be afraid to ask the hard questions!
Which leads me to charities you may fund inadvertently. I was dismayed to learn that one of the dog product suppliers I used to purchase from gave a portion of their proceeds to an organization that tested on animals (including dogs).
I nicknamed this “stinkwashing” (inspired by the “pinkwashing” term coined by the Breast Action Fund for the hypocrisy of the actions of companies and organizations that claim to care about breast cancer and promote a pink ribbon product but at the same time produce, manufacture, and/or sell products that are linked to the disease). Now I’m always suspicious of generalized statements about “proceeds of this sale will be donated to…” Are these companies in line with your personal values? What is the company doing to ensure that its donations (from the sale of products to you) are not linked to programs that are detrimental to dogs or animals? If you can’t tell or don’t know what the organization does, reconsider your purchase.
More than Money What about the multitude of us that have no funds to spare in these difficult economic times? Don’t feel guilt – it has no useful purpose. And don’t let a lack of financial resources hinder your generosity. Many organizations need your non-monetary donations as well. Shelters and rescues often have holiday wish lists for items that you may be able to spare without spending a penny. Bedding and towels are common needs, as are “safe dog toys” (ones without parts that can be chewed off), crates, and collars and leashes that can be given to adopters.
And if you’ve got some time, consider volunteering for your favorite local organization. You could walk or bathe homeless pets, help with a shelter’s laundry, or perhaps donate your skills at website design or even something as mundane as data entry. While you might not get a tax deduction, the benefit to a cash-strapped, understaffed shelter or local rescue can be priceless.
Barbara Dobbins is a San Francisco Bay Area dog trainer on hiatus. When she’s done paying for her dog’s cancer treatments, she will donate to canine cancer research.
As soon as a food is manufactured, it begins to undergo a variety of chemical and physical changes. It’s a basic law of the universe (the second law of thermodynamics) that everything degrades over time. This includes the proteins and vitamins in dog foods, but it’s the fats I worry about the most.
Dogs require fats in their diet. However, fats are among the most chemically fragile nutrients in dog food; they are the limiting factor to the shelf life of most dog foods. Fats that have degraded – gone “rancid” – can cause all sorts of health problems for dogs.
So how can owners make sure their dogs get the healthy fats they need in their diets, without exposing them to rancid fats? The following are my recommendations for how this can be accomplished – but first, let me explain why it’s necessary to take extra steps to make sure your dog is helped, and not harmed, by the fat in his commercial diet.
The Fats Dogs Need
Fat is a very important part of a dog’s diet – especially when you consider that dogs don’t have a biological requirement for carbohydrates at all. Dietary fats provide concentrated forms of energy for the dog, carry the fat-soluble vitamins, and supply the dog with essential fatty acids (fatty acids are the basic building blocks of fats; “essential” fatty acids are those that the dog’s body needs but can’t manufacture). A variety of fats are needed by the dog for healthy skin, hair, and immune function; regulation of the inflammation process; and prenatal development. On a molecular level, fatty acids contribute to the physical structure of all the dog’s cells.
Fats – and their building blocks, the fatty acids – represent a broad category of nutrients. Just as your dog needs to consume a variety of vitamins and minerals, he needs a variety and balance of fatty acids. Which ones? How much? Well, I’m afraid it depends on who you talk to. In my opinion (and that of many canine nutrition experts), the best answers come from analysis of the dog’s ancestral diet and from nutrition science. Using these tools, I’ve come to believe that most commercial diets leave dogs short of what they need in terms of dietary fat in two ways:
1. Commercial diets generally feature an incomplete offering and unbalanced array of fatty acids.
2. The fat in commercial dog foods is prone to developing rancidity.
These traits pose problems for dogs, but they are easily overcome.
Incomplete and Unblanced
Before domestication, the dog’s diet contained a complete range of fats, because the dog ate many different parts of the prey animal, which contain different types of fat:
– Muscle meat contains saturated fats (SFAs), monounsaturated fats MUFAs), and polyunsaturated fats (PUFAs).
– Storage fat contains primarily SFAs.
– Bone marrow contains primarily MUFAs.
– Organ fat contains mostly MUFAs and PUFAs.
– The fat that protects the organs consists primarily of SFAs.
– Eyes and brains contain mostly PUFAs, including DHA.
Scientists at the National Research Council (NRC) periodically review all the relevant literature on nutrition (for humans as well as companion and food animals) and issue recommendations for nutrient amounts, maximums, and minimums for each species. In 1985, the NRC recognized just one fatty acid, linoleic acid (LA, an omega-6 fatty acid and a PUFA) as being essential for dogs.
However, by 2006 (the year it released its most recent guidelines, Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats), the NRC had updated its findings and listed four additional PUFAs as essential for dogs: arachidonic acid (AA, another omega-6 fatty acid considered essential for puppies), and three omega-3 fatty acids: alpha linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). In time, I suspect it will list even more fatty acids as essential for dogs, including gamma linolenic acid (GLA), conjugated linolenic acid (CLA), and probably more.
It’s in the PUFAs that we often find a balance of fats problem, primarily an improper ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids and the lack of DHA. Most nutrition experts suggest that the ideal ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids for the dog is between 2:1 and 6:1. But many chicken-based conventional dog foods are formulated with excessive amounts of omega-6 fatty acids, primarily LA. And since LA is converted in the dog’s body into AA, an oversupply of LA results in an excess of AA, which promotes inflammation and exacerbates many health problems, including skin disease, arthritis, and renal problems.
Most dog foods do not contain DHA – which offers so many benefits for dogs! – and those that do contain DHA have a higher probability of becoming rancid.
Fat Rancidity in Dog Food
All fats chemically react to and degrade with exposure to oxygen; this is called oxidation. Oxidized fats are said to be rancid; they have degraded from a nutritionally beneficial substance to one that is actually toxic to animals. When fats become rancid, the shape, structure, function, and activity of the fatty acid is profoundly changed. (The bad smell associated with rancid fats is caused by chemical by-products of fat degradation: aldehydes and ketones.)
Rancid fats reduce the nutritive value of the protein, and degrade vitamins and antioxidants. That bears repeating: rancid fat can so vastly reduce the benefit your dog can get from the proteins and vitamins present in his food, that he can suffer from protein and vitamin deficiencies. Rancid fats can also cause diarrhea, liver and heart problems, macular degeneration, cell damage, cancer, arthritis, and death. It’s good policy to avoid feeding rancid fats to our dogs.
All of the omega-3 fats are fragile – they turn rancid quickly – with the long chain omega-3 fats EPA and DHA among the most fragile.
The Goal, and Barriers to Reaching It
The scientific evidence is overwhelming: dogs who eat a diet with balanced fats – especially the proper relative amounts of omega-6 and omega-3 fats (including DHA, probably the most important fat for the brain and eyes) – are healthier and more intelligent than dogs who do not consume a proper balance of fats. Every cell, every organ of the dog’s body operates more efficiently when fortified with the right fats.
However, pet food regulators have not yet required pet food makers to reflect everything that nutritionists agree on regarding fats. As of 2012, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) has not included DHA in its “Nutrient Requirements for Dogs” – a table that is used as the basis for the legal claim of dietary completeness and balance for all commercial dog foods sold in the U.S. The AAFCO nutrient requirements address only minimum amounts of fat and LA.
Some pet food makers, or at least, some of the nutritionists working for the pet food makers, are cognizant of the benefits of including other fatty acids, even if they are not required in order for a food to be labeled as “complete and balanced.” Some of the most up-to-date companies now include DHA or fish or fish oil (the most common and readily available sources of DHA) in their commercial foods. DHA is especially important for puppies and pregnant dogs, so premium puppy foods today often include fish or fish oil.
I strongly believe that it’s important for dogs to receive adequate amounts of DHA (in particular) and a diet that contains a balanced array of saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fats. That said, I don’t think the ideal fat balance is best supplied by commercial foods, and here’s why: the fats needed to complete and balance a dog’s diet are too fragile to survive typical dog food production, handling, and storage.
I suspect that the state feed control officials (the voting members of AAFCO, which establishes the nutrient requirements for “complete and balanced” dog foods) are hesitant to require DHA (as the most compelling fatty acid) in dog foods because, at least with today’s technology, this expensive fat is just too fragile to be included in a product meant to be kept on the shelf for up to 12 to 18 months and left open in the kitchen for weeks.
Extrusion (where the food is quickly cooked under high pressure, the way most dog foods are produced) and long-term storage make it likely that any DHA present in the food oxidizes. In discussing fats in pet food, the 2006 NRC’s Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats stated, “Many of the PUFAs in the diet, such as those from fish, undergo peroxidation during processing and storage before ingestion.” Peroxidation means the fats turn rancid. And rancid DHA is worse for the dog than no DHA at all.
Challenge for Commercial Dog Food Producers
What about all those pet food companies that do include DHA in their products? How do they ensure that the DHA (and other fragile fatty acids) don’t become rancid before the dogs eat them?
All the studies and nutrient analyses tests I’ve seen on the DHA content of dog foods were conducted at or very close to the time of manufacturing, when the foods were fresh, or were accelerated studies under laboratory conditions, not under real-world conditions.
For example, most dog foods move from the manufacturer via truck to a warehouse, via a truck to a retailer, and then to a home, where they may be open for 30 or more days before all the food is consumed. The food may be exposed to several temperature cycles, which is stressful for all the polyunsaturated fats (especially DHA), and may be six months old (or older) before it’s fed. How much DHA is left under these rough, but not atypical, conditions? How many of the fats are rancid?
For this article I wrote to probably every dog food manufacturer in North America, including all the big companies. I asked them if they had real world data: “Can you tell me what’s happened to the fats, especially DHA, by the time the dogs eat it?” I received no independent data in reply. Many companies responded but had no data to offer. Others gave me access to their in-house and consultant nutritionists, with whom I had several interesting conversations about long-term testing programs. (These yielded several iterations of one fascinating fact: Dogs can detect rancid fats, through smell, better than any laboratory equipment!)
A few companies provided me with data from accelerated testing – close, but not what I asked for. No company sent me independent test reports showing what happens in real-world conditions to the fragile fats by the time your dog eats the food.
Recommendations
In light of all of this information, I offer the following recommendations so that dogs who eat a commercial diet can get the fats they need, without being exposed to rancid fats. Dog owners can either:
1. Give your dog commercial foods that do not contain fish, fish oils, or DHA, and add them yourself; or
2. Buy recently produced commercial foods with added fish, fish oils, or DHA.
I think the best choice is to feed naturally preserved foods that meet freshness guidelines (described in detail below) and that do not contain fish, fish oil, or DHA; then add fresh, high-quality fish or krill oils or sardines yourself.
The Best Way to Add DHA: Sardines
The best way to add EPA and DHA is to feed sardines to your dog once a week. If you add fish oil to your dog’s food, replace the fish oil with sardines. While many of the studies showing the significant body and brain benefits of consuming DHA were conducted with fish oils, I think sardines are superior for many reasons.
Sardines, a sustainable fish with low mercury loads, are high in protein, and provide a complete range of trace minerals, including natural forms of zinc; a full complement of vitamins including D, B12, E and K; a full range of antioxidants; and other known (and, I’m sure, unknown) nutrients. The triglyceride and phospholipid forms of DHA found in sardines are more absorbable and stable than the ethyl ester forms in most fish oils, and may be more effective for improving brain functions and preventing cancer.
The best canned sardines for dogs are those in water with no salt added. Avoid sardines packed in soy, corn, sunflower, safflower, or other omega-6 rich oils. If my recommended amounts call for 1¼ cans of sardines, it is okay to feed two cans in one week of the month, and the other weeks feed just one can. Use the entire can of sardines within two days after opening it, and refrigerate the open can, so that the fragile fats do not go rancid.
If your dog doesn’t like sardines, or you don’t like the smell of sardines on your dog’s breath, use fresh, human-grade fish or krill oil gel caps. Don’t overdo it! EPA and DHA, like most nutrients, provide wonderful health benefits in small amounts, and are detrimental in excess amounts or without sufficient antioxidant protection. Feed small amounts (0.2 to 1 gram of high-quality EPA + DHA per day for a 45-pound dog) and you’ll probably make your dog smarter and healthier. Feed much larger amounts and your dog will probably slow down mentally and age at a faster rate.
Here are my sardine recommendations for adult dogs. Feed twice this much to puppies and pregnant or lactating females.
Dog’s 3.75-oz can
Weight sardines
5 lbs 1/4 can per week
15 lbs 1/2 can per week
25 lbs 5/8 can per week
50 lbs 1 can per week
100 lbs 1 3/4 cans per week
A 3.75-ounce can of sardines has about 200 calories, so reduce the amount of dry food given on “sardine days” accordingly. Rule of thumb: One can of sardines in water has about the same number of calories as ½ cup of most dog foods.
You can substitute canned wild Alaska pink salmon (the bones are edible), oysters (a great source of zinc, especially important for pregnant and lactating females), and other fresh, frozen, or canned wild ocean fish for sardines. Pacific oysters are probably better than Gulf of Mexico oysters, especially after the BP oil spill in 2010, and safer than canned oysters from China. Never feed raw salmon or trout, especially Pacific salmon, because it may contain a bacterium that can kill dogs.
Further Considerations While Buying Dog Food
The following are a few more things to think about if you feed dry foods to your dog. Some of the bullet points will help you select healthier, fresher foods for your dog; some will help you keep that food in the best possible condition until your dog has eaten it all. The final point is a warning about supplemental fish oil.
– Determining produced-on date. A few pet food makers include both a “produced-on” date and a “best by” date on their products; that’s ideal. Most, however, just use a “best by” date as part of the date/code on the label.
To determine how fresh a food is you need to calculate the produced-on date. Ask the manufacturer (almost all of them have toll-free numbers) what the shelf life is for the product you’re curious about. Most dry foods are given 12-month shelf lives, but some foods are given 18 months.
If a food has a best-by date of December 2013, and the manufacturer gives the food a 12-month shelf life, the food was produced December 2012.
– Freshest! For the freshest foods, buy chicken-based foods from retailers who sell lots of that food and get frequent deliveries, and who always rotate. Some imported exotic meats may only be imported once a year, so even freshly made exotic foods may use one-year-old meats.
– Natural or synthetic preservatives? Preservatives are used in dry dog foods to slow down the oxidation of the fats. Natural preservatives such as mixed tocopherols are considered to be less harmful for dogs than artificial preservatives, but they do not prevent oxidation (rancidity) for as long as artificial preservatives do.
If you’re planning on keeping a food toward the latter half of its “best by” date, your dog may be better off with a food that is preserved with a synthetic antioxidant such as ethoxyquin. Personally, I think the dangers of rancid fats are greater than the problems posed by synthetic antioxidants.
– Buying foods in foil bags. Typical paper / plastic dog food bags provide excellent moisture and insect barriers, but are only moderate oxygen barriers. Foil bags provide excellent moisture, insect, and oxygen barriers and are best for long-term preservation of nutrients.
Foil bags are expensive and may have much larger environmental impacts than typical bags. I suggest buying foods in foil bags only when you need to store unopened bags of food for long times. If you follow the guidelines above, the extra protection and cost of foil bags won’t be necessary.
– Food with the longest shelf-life. If you want to stock your summer cabin with unopened bags of dog food for a year, low-fat beef foods without fish oils preserved with ethoxyquin and packaged in foil bags will give the longest shelf life. Beef and bison meats contain fewer polyunsaturated fats than do chicken and turkey foods, and therefore they usually have longer shelf lives.
– Trust your nose – and your dog’s nose. The most sensitive tests for rancid fats are trained human and canine noses. If the food doesn’t smell right to either of you, don’t feed it.
– Storing food. Freezing is the best way to preserve pet food, but it’s not only impractical for most of us, but also unnecessary when following the freshness guidelines (on the facing page). Store in dry, cool locations. If using a food container, keep the food in its original bag and place the bag in the container.
– Special caution. At dog shows I’ve seen gallon-sized, clear, plastic jugs of fish oil offered for sale. The price per serving might be appealing if you have a lot of large dogs, but these containers scare me. The lightweight plastic provides little barrier to air and transmits light, which causes photo-oxidation. Unless you know the manufacturer and the freshness of the fish oil, and have enough dogs to use the oil very quickly, avoid these products. Remember, no DHA is better than rancid DHA.
Manufacturers, Please Challenge Me
What can the consumer expect is in the food when it’s fed? The state-of-the-art in packaging, natural antioxidants and the stability of forms of DHA keep improving (for example, algal meal provides DHA in more stable forms), but I have yet to see real-world data on the stability of dry foods with fish oils or DHA added.
Accelerated stability tests provide some information, but are not sufficient for me to change my recommendations. Real-world, long-term tests are essential because changes in temperature and physical jostling during distribution add stress to the fats, and mixed tocopherol preservation systems may not be effective under stressful conditions. The best data will include palatability tests as well as chemical tests. Dogs are more sensitive to rancidity than peroxide value and free fatty acids tests.
Steve Brown is a dog food formulator, researcher, and author on canine nutrition. In the 1990s he developed one of the leading low-calorie training treats, Charlee Bear® Dog Treats, as well as the first AAFCO-compliant raw dog food. Since 2003 he has focused on research and education. He is the author of two books on canine nutrition (See Spot Live Longer, now in its 8th printing, and Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet (Dogwise Publishing, 2010); and a 40-page booklet, See Spot Live Longer the ABC Way. He is also a formulation consultant to several pet food companies.
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In the November issue of WDJ, I wrote an article (“What a Waste!) about the many ways that pet food gets wasted at every level of production and marketing – and a few ways that thoughtful people are combatting that waste, particularly at the retail level. I hope that dog owners and those involved in animal rescue will look for and share other ways that perfectly good but unsalable pet food can be saved from landfill and donated to needy animal shelters and rescues.
Just after our press deadline for the November issue, I learned about the efforts made by a Southern California chain of pet supply stores to make sure that wholesome but unsalable pet food ends up in the possession of animal guardians who really need it — and who might not be able to keep their pets without it. Chris Nakagawa, CEO of Centinela Feed and Pet Supplies, a chain of 13 stores, told me about the company’s collaborations with with Meals on Wheels West and the Torrance-South Bay YMCA’s Home Delivery Program to provide food for the pets of homebound seniors and other clients.
Meals on Wheels West learned that some of their clients were sharing their donated meals with their pets, rather than benefitting from the nutritious food, themselves. Adding quality pet food to the deliveries they made to pet-owning clients made sense. Centinela stepped up to provide that food – and reached out to one of their vendors, Gamma Plastics (makers of containers), to provide reusable plastic pet food storage containers, which are given to the Meals on Wheels West clients. Centinela collects from its stores wholesome food that might otherwise be wasted (food from torn bags or that is nearing its expiration date), and provides it to Meals on Wheels West, who fills the pet-owning clients containers when they make their regular food deliveries. (Also, First Care Animal Health has promised to provide mobile medical care including shots and flea medication to clients’ pets.)
Centinela Feeds also donates food that would otherwise be wasted to the Torrance-South Bay YMCA’s Home Delivery Program, so that those clients will receive a steady, free supply of pet food for their beloved companions.
The YMCA’s Executive Director Bob Shafer said, “We are thrilled and honored by Centinela Feed and Pet Supplies’ meaningful contribution to the elderly in our community, many of whom rely not only on the meals the Y delivers to sustain them, but sometimes even more so on the comforting presence of their pets. This unique collaboration allows us to join our strengths to give our seniors nourishment and peace of mind.”
Are you aware of efforts made by other retail outlets to make sure that perfectly good pet food from torn bags is not wasted? If so, please share the good news!
“Urp. Urp. Urp.” You know, the sound that tells you your dog is just about to vomit. It sure gets your attention. And calls for action. But do you take it?
If he’s somewhere like the middle of your bed, carpet, or sofa, and he’s just about to vomit, do you grab him and carry him to a less-padded spot, or in the case of bigger dogs, shove him off? Or do you feel sorry for him, allow him to finish, and clean up the mess?
I found myself wondering what other dog owners would do the other day, when little Tito suddenly started urp, urp, urping while sitting in the middle of my guestroom’s bed, as I worked on the computer on the desk. I jumped up, but then I did feel sorry for him, and allowed him to finish. It meant putting the comforter – and because I pulled the comforter off the bed as soon as he was finished, the sheets and mattress pad, too – casualties of the second vomit, a few minutes later — in the washing machine. And I asked myself, how many people would have grabbed the 10-pound dog and run for the back door, or even kitchen (vinyl floor), where the cleanup would have taken a minute, instead of more than an hour?
Maybe the action taken depends on the size of the animal, and what he’s been fed. I probably wouldn’t have allowed 70-pound Otto to vomit on the bed.
Are you feeding your pet the right way? The debate over pet food is ongoing, from the source and quality of the ingredients to the use of chemical preservatives, colors and flavoring agents. Only a few premium brands contain food suitable for consumption for humans; almost all are made from such questionable raw materials, that they have been the focus of lengthy exposes by veterinarians and investigate journalists. So what should dogs eat?
Everything in their anatomy points to a meat-based diet. Like foxes, coyotes, wolf, hyena, lion, tiger and other wild relatives, domestic dogs have sharp teeth for tearing meat and gnawing on teeth, their secretions are highly concentrated and their intestines are short which makes them well suited for processing freshly killed animals.
The benefits of feeding your dog a diet of high-quality food, particularly a homemade diet with raw meat and bones, are numerous.
For an easy-to-read yet detailed account of the advantages of a natural diet and an herbal and holistic approach to your dog’s health, purchase CJ Puotinen’s Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats from The Whole Dog Journal.
Are you feeding your pet the right way? The debate over pet food is ongoing, from the source and quality of the ingredients to the use of chemical preservatives, colors and flavoring agents. Only a few premium brands contain food suitable for consumption for humans; almost all are made from such questionable raw materials, that they have been the focus of lengthy exposes by veterinarians and investigate journalists. So what should dogs eat
Everything in their anatomy points to a meat-based diet. Like foxes, coyotes, wolf, hyena, lion, tiger and other wild relatives, domestic dogs have sharp teeth for tearing meat and gnawing on teeth, their secretions are highly concentrated and their intestines are short which makes them well suited for processing freshly killed animals.
The benefits of feeding your dog a diet of high-quality food, particularly a homemade diet with raw meat and bones, are numerous.
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Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.
Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.
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Thanksgiving is a time when families gather together to enjoy good food and to remember all the things we have to be grateful for. Unfortunately, one part of our family often gets left out – our dogs! It must be frustrating for them to smell all the wonderful aromas coming from the kitchen, but not be able to share in the feast. We’re here to relieve that vexing situation with recipes for some healthy Thanksgiving dishes just for them.
Below are recipes you can use to give your dogs a special treat on this wonderful holiday, or to use up leftovers afterwards. Note these recipes are fine to feed occasionally, but they are not a complete diet.
One serving of each of the three recipes together, or three servings of either of the first two recipes alone, would provide a complete meal for a dog weighing about 25 pounds. One serving of any of the three recipes individually could be used to supplement the same dog’s regular diet (reduce the amount you usually feed by one-third to account for the extra calories). All recipes are low in fat, and leftovers can be frozen for later use.
Why Shouldn’t Our Dogs Just Share Our Dinner?
We are warned over and over again that sharing human food with dogs can be dangerous. That’s true if you’re sharing fatty foods or scraps, such as turkey skin or pan drippings, cheese, bacon, or butter. Too much fat can lead to pancreatitis, particularly in dogs accustomed to eating a low-fat commercial diet. Sugary treats such as pumpkin pie are also not a good idea, since they may cause tummy upset, as well as providing unneeded calories that contribute to obesity. Cooked bones can perforate the esophagus, stomach, or intestines and cause impactions, and should never be fed to dogs.In addition to these foods, certain ingredients can also cause problems for dogs, including:
–Xylitol, used as a sugar substitute in some baked goods, sugar-free gum, candy, and toothpaste, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia in dogs, even in small amounts – as little as five sticks of sugar-free gum can sicken a 44-pound dog.
–Macadamia nuts can cause paralysis; fortunately this resolves within about 24 hours.
–Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs.
–Onions cause a form of anemia and should not be fed (very small amounts in leftovers would be okay).
–Garlic is similar but much less potent, so small amounts can be used for flavoring.
–Nutmeg and sage are safe in very small amounts, but too much can cause gastrointestinal upset and central nervous system depression or excitement.
–Chocolate, coffee, and caffeine are all dangerous for dogs (dark chocolate is more toxic than milk chocolate).Yeast dough can expand in the dog’s stomach causing pain and even rupture.
–Milk can cause stomach upset due to lactose intolerance (yogurt and cottage cheese are low in lactose and are good to feed).
Foods Okay To Share with Dogs
There are many foods that can be safely shared with dogs. As long as your dog doesn’t have a health problem that requires a special diet, there’s no reason you can’t feed a special meal on this holiday. Just be careful what you offer. Make good choices and limit amounts to help your dog enjoy the holiday without suffering from overindulgence afterward.Some foods, such as turkey meat (without the skin) can be shared without needing any special preparation, but other dishes may require changes to make them appropriate for dogs. Set aside a portion during preparation, before adding butter, cheese, sugar, onions, or other high-fat and high-calorie ingredients, to make servings appropriate for dogs.
Try putting food into a Kong or other hollow toy. Your dog will enjoy the challenge of removing his treat, and the task will keep your dog occupied while the rest of the family enjoys their dinner. Add plain yogurt and freeze ahead of time to make the treat last even longer.
Holiday Recipes for Dogs
Anyone who knows me well knows that I don’t cook, so when I was asked to create some Thanksgiving recipes for dogs, I panicked. Recipes? I’m the one who has argued against the use of recipes for homemade diets (I prefer diet guidelines so that the same food is not fed every day), and against the need to create special recipes for dogs using multiple ingredients and flavorings more suitable for human palates. While it’s hard for me to imagine, however, I realize that some people actually enjoy cooking, and may find it especially gratifying to prepare a special and healthy holiday treat for their dogs.
In desperation, I appealed to my friend Jill Petersen, of Kenmore, Washington, who not only volunteered to help me create the recipes, but also tried them out on her own dogs. Etta, her Norwich Terrier, was the first to volunteer for the “sniff and taste” test, and she gave an enthusiastic two paws up to all the dishes (her favorite was the giblets and rice dish).
My primary goals with these recipes were to ensure that they were each low in fat and included only ingredients that are good for dogs, so that the usual holiday warnings would not apply. It was harder than I expected; I was surprised at the amount of added fat in many dishes. I almost despaired of finding a low-fat, low-calorie pie crust; the low-fat versions substituted light Karo syrup for butter or oil, and there was no way I was going to tell people to feed that to their dogs! Once again, Jill saved the day with her oatmeal and applesauce crust.
Here are three Thanksgiving recipes for dogs brought to you by Whole Dog Journal:
Turkey and Vegetable Frittata for Dogs
Leftover turkey can be mixed with eggs and a variety of different vegetables to make a healthy meal for your dog.
Ingredients:
2 cups (10 oz.) cooked turkey meat (light or dark, no skin), cut into pieces
1 cup (5 oz.) steamed broccoli
1 cup (5 oz.) steamed cauliflower
4 eggs
1/4 cup plain, lowfat yogurt
Preparation:
Steam broccoli and cauliflower for 8 minutes or until tender, and cut into bite-sized pieces (other vegetables may be substituted; see suggestions below). Beat eggs and yogurt together. Mix turkey and vegetables together in a quiche or glass pie pan (spray first with vegetable or olive oil cooking spray to prevent sticking). Pour egg mixture on top and stir, making sure the meat and vegetables are coated with egg. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes (can also be cooked at 375 degrees on top shelf if preparing at the same time as the rice dish). Dish is ready when a fork inserted comes out clean. Makes 8 servings (3.5 oz. each).
Zucchini, spinach, asparagus, bell pepper, green beans, or sweet potato. Chicken instead of turkey.
Quick & Easy Version
Mix leftover turkey with egg, plain yogurt, vegetables, mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes or canned pumpkin.
Rice, Apple & Giblet Stuffing
Broth from giblets gives brown rice an intoxicating flavor for dogs, and the addition of the giblets as well makes this dish suitable for a meal. This recipe can be made with a smaller amount of giblets (such as from a chicken) or a larger amount of rice when combined with other high-protein foods.
Ingredients:
Giblets from one turkey (liver, heart and gizzard, about 6.5 oz.)
1 cup brown rice (dry)
2 small apples, diced or cubed
2.5 cups of water
Preparation:
Combine water and giblets and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the giblets and let the water cool a bit. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with olive or vegetable oil cooking spray. Add brown rice and cooled water from the giblets and mix together well. Cover and bake at 375 degrees fahrenheit for 45 minutes. Remove from oven; rice should be almost fully cooked with most of the water absorbed. Add chopped giblets and apples. Return to oven and bake for another 15 minutes uncovered. Makes 12 servings (1/2 cup each).
Pumpkin is good for dogs, but they don’t need the extra sugar and spices found in pumpkin pie mix. This recipe uses a low-fat, low-calorie crust suitable for dogs.
Ingredients:
16 oz. canned pumpkin (plain)
8 oz. plain, low-fat yogurt
3/4 cup wheat flour, or a mixture of all purpose and whole wheat flour
1/2 cup oatmeal
1/4 cup applesauce, unsweetened
3-4 tbsp. water
Preparation:
Mix oatmeal and flour together in a food processor. Add applesauce slowly, continuing to run processor. Add water slowly, using only enough to make a ball form (too much water will make the dough sticky). Spray wax paper and muffin tin with olive or vegetable oil cooking spray. Roll out dough onto wax paper and cut out 8 circles, about 4″ across (alternatively divide dough into eight small balls before rolling). Press individual dough circles into bottom and sides of muffin tin. Bake at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for 8 minutes. Let crusts cool, then remove from the muffin tin. Fill each crust with about 1/4 cup (2 oz.) of canned pumpkin. Top with a dollop of yogurt. Makes 8 mini pumpkin pies.
Cinnamon, ginger and honey can be mixed in or added on top if desired.
Quick & Easy Version:
Give a scoop of canned pumpkin with a spoonful of plain yogurt on top (crustless version is much lower in calories).
Healthy Substitutions for Dogs
INSTEAD OF THIS:
FEED THIS:
Turkey skin or drippings
Turkey meat (skinless)
Fatty ham scraps
Lean ham meat
Cooked bones
Giblets (not too much at one time)
Gravy made from drippings
Low-fat gravy
Stuffing with onions
Stuffing without onions
Candied yams and marshmallows
Sweet potato or yams
Potatoes with butter and/or sour cream
Plain mashed potatoes
Cheese and sausage
Celery or carrot sticks
Green bean casserole with onions
Green beans
Broccoli casserole with cheese
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts with bacon
Brussels sprouts with a few bacon bits
Pearl onions
Creamed corn
Applesauce with added sugar
Unsweetened applesauce
Grapes or raisins
Blueberries and dried cranberries
Apple pie
Apple slices
Berry pie
Berries
Pumpkin pie
Canned pumpkin
Nutmeg
Cinnamon
Whipped cream
Yogurt (plain)
Alcohol
Water flavored with low-fat gravy
Author Mary Straus would like to extend special thanks to Jill and her taste testers: Etta, Raisin’ (a 15-year-old Cairn Terrier), and Chip, a 12-year-old Norwich Terrier).
An after-dinner family ritual, when I was a kid, was for each person seated at the table to share what they were most grateful for since last Thanksgiving. Those dinners don’t happen any more, but each year I ask myself that old question. Sometimes the answer is cause for mental debate, but this year, there was no doubt at all. One thing leaps instantly to mind: the fact that my dogs are both safe, that neither was injured when a speeding bicyclist T-boned my new Subaru in September.
Although there was $5,000 worth of body damage, and the driver’s side passenger seat window shattered, there were no injuries other than my minor glass cuts. Our guardian angels were riding shotgun that sunny Sunday in the park. While there was shattered glass in one crate, neither Meg, our 10-year-old Cardigan Welsh Corgi, nor Zebra, our 5-year-old Bull Terrier, was injured, or traumatized – and neither dog had an opportunity to either escape or bite somebody in a panic.
DECISIONS, DECISIONS The route to car-crating was not easy for me. Along the way there were signs it was the right thing to do, but it took me longer than it should have to heed them.
– There was the time in the 1980s when 4-month old Bram, learning to stay quietly in the backseat, leaped out of the drivers’ side window before the car had come to a complete stop, so excited was she to be at the dog park. I drove with the window all the way up for a long time thereafter. But it couldn’t have happened, had she been properly crated.
– Next I was rear-ended by a young man who had lost his license and had “borrowed” his mother’s car. He never noticed that red light I was stopped at. BLAM! Amy, Bram’s daughter, sleeping on the back seat, hit the back of my seat so hard it broke loose, shoving me forward into the dashboard. That wouldn’t have happened had she been properly crated.
– Once at a dog show on a cool day, I left my two un-entered Bull Terriers sleeping on the back seat of my locked car while I went to meet someone. The girls barked and security guards showed up, scaring off three young men in a pickup truck, who by all appearances intended to steal my girls through the open sunroof. That wouldn’t have happened had they been properly crated.
– In 1993 I traded my mini-car for a maxi-car, one I could get crates into. It was a less-than-perfect solution, as there were no “tie-down” points to secure crates, and the two would not fit side by side in the back. But now that a 2011 Subaru has come to live in our garage, there are tie-downs to secure the crates, and both fit side-by-side. I’d prefer that Zee be in a VariKennel, rather than a wire crate, but better visibility trumps here. I can’t see to the rear with a large VariKennel in the back.
– Had my girls been loose in the passenger area of the car when that bike hit, they would have been injured. I’m sorry beyond measure that the demonstration proving crates essential happened, but I’m beyond glad that they were crated. Can you imagine how you’d feel if your dogs were injured or worse and you could have prevented it? I can.
Reasons To Crate Properly secured crates provide the greatest safety for dogs, as well as for their people. Why secured? So the crate containing the dog does not itself become a projectile if there’s a crash.
-A properly sized crate allows dogs to stand, to turn, to lie down, providing some freedom, but not so much as to permit them to rattle around like teacups in an oak barrel.
-A dog crate contains . . . well, everything you don’t want all over your car. Ordinary dog hair, dirt, and mud for sure, but also any unexpected vomitus, diarrhea, slime, or slobber.
-A crated dog cannot leave the car without permission. Even the best-trained canine can sometimes forget to “Wait!”
-Crated dogs in a multi-dog household cannot get into fights. Ever try to drive with two dogs fighting in back? Don’t.
-Crated dogs can’t breathe heavily in the driver’s ear or stomp on or get under the gas pedal. They can’t knock a gear shift from Drive to Neutral. Crated, they must be little ladies and gentlemen; this is management at its finest.
-If there is an accident and dogs are injured and / or terrified, total strangers will feel safer helping than if they were loose and potentially threatening. Confined to their car, they will not be loose on the freeway. There is no chance that they’ll be lost, strayed, or stolen.
Alternatives There are other ways to address dog safety in cars, and there are also pros and cons for each.
– Seat belts follow crates in effectiveness. However, the part that the dog wears needs to fit properly, and should be easy to put on. Metal hardware, less likely to break, is preferable to plastic. No restraining system should ever attach to a dog’s collar; the risk of tracheal injury or a broken neck looms large. More and more canine seat belts are being crash-tested; this should be a requirement for any product you buy for your dog.
– Dog car seats abound. There are many models to choose from. Consensus is that they are best for smaller dogs, and that they are not as safe as crates or seat belts.
– Barriers, usually made of metal, though mesh or plastic can be used, are more about safety for humans, rather than safety for dogs. While barriers can effectively prevent canine passengers from distracting the driver, or from becoming projectiles in the event of an accident, they don’t do much for the safety of the dog.
Since “There’s no place like home for the holidays”, please crate your dogs while you travel there. You might be very thankful, and so might they.
Shari A. Mann lives in San Francisco. She mans the “help desk” at bullterrierrescue.org, and enthusiastically supports dog rescue.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
