Home Blog Page 240

How to be a “Dog Person”

0

I don’t know where I picked it up, but it elicits a chuckle each time I repeat it to someone new. “God made dogs,” the joke goes, “and the Devil made dog clubs.”

If you are involved in dogs outside the four walls of your home – competing in performance events like agility or obedience, helping out with a rescue group, going to your local dog park – then, inescapably, you are involved with dog people. And no matter what the context, or how altruistic the goal, any time more than two people gather in the name of something they are passionate about, there are politics – and drama, mama.

It’s fitting (and not a little ironic)  that dogs evolved to be our companions around the prehistoric garbage dump, because dealing with our unwanted baggage has become an inevitable part of the relationship.

All this isn’t to say that we shouldn’t band together to celebrate the species that is such an important part of our lives – how unrewarding would that be? But the more you get involved in the “dog world” – whether it’s your local obedience class or doing a star turn on the green carpet at Westminster – at some point you’ll likely find yourself grappling with a variety of emotions and dilemmas, and they are hardly ever brought on by the dogs themselves. Personality conflicts, head games, territorial imperatives, competitiveness so overt it would make even the steeliest soccer mom cringe – these are part and parcel of being “doggie” in this day and age.

Because the best defense is a good offense, here are some things to keep in mind if your goal is to have a balanced, healthy relationship not just with your dogs, but with the people who share your passion for them.

Don’t be judgmental. Like any culture, our doggie version has societal norms that are “supposed” to be observed, as well as its share of taboos. We judge people based on all kinds of things – where they acquired their dog, what kind of dog it is, whether they spay or neuter, where their dog sleeps at night, what training systems they use, even what kind of food they feed.

Take that last one for a minute. I may think feeding raw is the healthiest option for my dog, and that’s okay. But it’s not okay if that leads me to conclude that anyone who feeds kibble is uneducated or uncaring about her dog’s welfare. Enthusiasm over hard-won discoveries about your dog is nothing but natural, but avoid becoming a proselytizer who can’t see the benefit in other people’s choices. Accept that you know what works for you and your dog, but don’t make other people feel bad about making different choices. Who knows? Maybe your friend can’t feed raw because she has an immunocompromised child, or she flat out can’t afford it. You don’t want to be the oblivious Boy Scout who is helping the little old lady cross the street … with her hitting him over the head with her umbrella all the while, because that’s not the way she was heading.

We’re all not in the same place on this journey, and how boring would it be if we were? Remember how clueless you were when you got your first dog? You may have even embraced certain ideas or beliefs that today you find reprehensible. Does that make you a bad or unworthy person, then or today?

It is a slippery slope: Often, the more we know about our corner of the dog world, the lower our tolerance level. For example, when they encounter those who use punishment as part of their training repertoire, there are some “purely positive” trainers who react in a way that can only be termed aversive. There’s a delicious irony there, don’t you think? Better to follow their own training advice: Reward the behaviors you like, and ignore those you don’t.

Years ago I followed a bully breed rescuer for a story I was writing. He basically drove around a gritty neighborhood, cajoling street toughs to give up their fighting and breeding dogs. I asked him, probably with more than a tinge of righteousness, how he screened his homes – his placement process seemed a little, well, slipshod to me.

“It doesn’t have to be a perfect home,” he told me, as we cruised past a pittie living in a sawed-off oil drum. “It just has to be better than what the dog has today.”

It was an imperfect solution for an imperfect world, but it was better than nothing. Especially if you were the dog.

Don’t cut yourself on the competitive edge. Dogs are such willing partners with us, it’s no wonder that the list of formal activities that we can do with them seems to grow longer every day. Obedience, agility, tracking, flyball, rally, nosework, dock diving, doggie dancing – and those are just some of the “every dog” ones, let alone specialized competitions such as lure-coursing, herding, or field trials.

But if you’re not careful, winning can turn you into the equivalent of a coin-stuffer parked in front of a casino slot machine: The wins are so addictive, they impart such a high, that soon you need more and more to maintain that same level of euphoria.

The problem, of course, is that you can’t hit a homer every time you’re at bat – or in front of the agility start line, or waiting at the white-fence entrance to the show ring. Kids in Little League are taught this, but many of us seem to have forgotten it. If leaving an event with the biggest and best ribbon is your only goal, you are setting yourself up for disappointment. In “sports” we compare ourselves to the competition, but in “sportsmanship,” we take our performance out of that context. Sportsmanship is defined as “an aspiration or ethos that a sport or activity will be enjoyed for its own sake” – without assigning blame, or reacting with negativity or pettiness.

Whenever I find myself heading into a weekend of dog shows, I never make winning my only goal. I aspire to it, of course, but there’s nothing more self-defeating than setting a goal that needs to be legitimized from outside. Instead, I make myself the arbiter of my own success, and thus I have complete control over it. I might tell myself, “This weekend, my goal is to have one conversation with someone that leaves me richer in knowledge than when I arrived.” Or: “My goal is to show my dog to her best advantage, with a palpable sense of enthusiasm and pride, so that everyone at ringside can see her quality and value.” Or, better yet: “I am going to have fun with my dog.”

It’s easier said than done, but it comes quicker the more you practice.

Like dogs, we dog people tend to arrange ourselves in a hierarchy. And it’s fine to have a group of like-minded dog friends that you hang out with, who are your support system and with whom you have shared interests. After all, most humans like to categorize and order our world – the narrower the pigeonhole, the more comfortable the fit. To that end, terrier people like to hang with terrier people, high-octane agility folk gravitate toward fellow competitors with high-speedsters, rescue folk seek out kindred spirits who know the challenges of the path they have chosen.

But sometimes these different “camps” can be as limiting as high school cliques. It’s a good idea to cast your net as wide as possible, because you never know what you’ll learn next, or who will teach it to you. For example, you probably couldn’t come up with two more opposite groups than purebred dog breeders and mixed-breed animal rescuers, but just imagine what the two could learn from each other if there were open, meaningful, non-confrontational dialogue.

Of course, there are always head cases. There’s one in every crowd, and oftentimes there are two or three. It’s no surprise that some dog people bring their own emotional baggage and unresolved issues with them. And when they do, wherever they are – the dog run, the training class, the rally ring – becomes their personal stage.

The “games people play” are endless – you’d do well to pick up a copy of the classic Eric Berne book of the same title to get a sense of how pervasive and sophisticated they can be. But you don’t need a degree in transactional analysis to navigate them. Instead, just take a cue from the dogs: Approach non-confrontationally, throw lots of calming signals, and avoid getting sucked into the drama.

Don’t live through your dog. Your self-worth shouldn’t be tied to what your dog does, or what other people think about it. If your dog flipped out at the training class, or spent the afternoon being a serial-humper at the dog park, or got the zoomies during the off-leash heel at an obedience competition, that doesn’t make you a bad dog person, any more than it makes your dog a bad dog.

Dogs, like people, are not static creatures. They change and grow and evolve just like we do. Whatever your puppy is like at six months is sure to be very different from what he is at six years – or even at one year, for that matter. Don’t take the ups and downs to heart, because they are ephemeral and don’t matter in the long run. What matters are the memories that you make and the connections you foster.

In some of the highest levels of competition, or in intensely competitive social interactions, people do tend to make value judgments about the dogs around them. But these judgments are based on what is prized in that context. Your dog’s inherent value is not determined by how fast he can hurtle through an agility tunnel, or how gorgeous his turn of shoulder or head planes are, or how neat a sit he can execute, or how many people ogle him at the dog run, though those are understandable sources of pride. He is valuable because he is yours.

Whenever you are involved in an activity that takes a lot of emotional, mental, and physical effort – whether it’s rehabilitating a near-feral, neglected Yorkie out of a hoarder’s house, or readying your pit-mix for an advanced obedience title – it can be easy to lose perspective on what’s important. And in the end, what matters most is the relationship between you and your dog.

“Dogs aren’t our whole life, but they make our lives whole,” Roger Caras famously said. Because they offer such unconditional love, and because we can control and, yes, manipulate them so effortlessly, dogs can become an appealing substitute for human company.

I know plenty of dog people who have missed monumental family occasions because they had “dog stuff” to do. Again, I don’t judge, so maybe that was the right decision for them. But we can become so immersed in our dog life that sometimes we forget to put it in the proper perspective. Your dog doesn’t care if she is running through the weave poles in the backyard or at the highest-profile trial of the year. She just knows that she is running with you, and that is all that matters.

The activities that you and your dog share with the larger dog community can be fun, fulfilling, and rewarding. But they shouldn’t be the only things that provide those adjectives for you. Make sure yours is a balanced life. Cook dinner for friends, dig in your garden, take in a concert, dance in the rain.

Above all, recognize when you need a break. Taking time away to recharge might be just what you need to get a clear perspective on things. Clubs, events, rescue, and competition will be there when you get back. But the most important ingredient, the one thing that got you involved in all this to begin with – your dog – will still be at your side. Come to think of it, he never left.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, three 9-year-old children, and a very patient husband.

How to Deal with a Dog Who Eats Poop

There are a range of methods to stop a dog eating poop.

[Updated March 21, 2016]

Most of us find the habit of eating feces to be the most disgusting thing that a dog can do. The clinical name for this behavior is coprophagy (pronounced kä – prä – fey – je), from the Greek words copro, which means feces, and phagy, which means eat.

The habit is not just revolting to us humans, it’s also potentially harmful to the dog’s health – although it’s less dangerous if the dog eats only his own feces and is parasite-free. A dog can become infected with internal parasites (worms) by eating feces from a dog who is already infected. The highly infectious parvovirus is also shed in feces, posing a risk to a coprophagic dog.

There are many theories to explain why some dogs do this, and at least as many suggested remedies. They range from the somewhat scientific to the hopeful. A multitude of remedies can be found through veterinarians, dog trainers, and local pet supply stores. Available literature and anecdotal reports suggest many things work for various dogs, and some dogs don’t respond completely despite the best efforts of their caregivers.

Even though there are no definitive answers for this seemingly eternal question, don’t despair. Keep reading and make as many of the changes suggested below as you reasonably can, and you may find one or more that work for you and your poop-eating dog.

Unproven Theories

There are any number of theories that propose reasons for dogs to engage in coprophagy, including the following:

Disease – Pancreatic insufficiency is one health condition linked to coprophagy, as is severe malnutrition caused by parasitic infestation.

Stress – Coprophagy is a behavior that is much more prevalent in shelter dogs (and former shelter dogs) than in the general population and is therefore thought to be related to anxiety and stress. For some dogs, removing sources of stress can help reduce this behavior. On the other hand, it may be that more dogs are surrendered to shelters because their humans can’t tolerate feces-eating.

Fear of Punishment – One theory suggests that dogs punished for defecating inappropriately may begin eating the evidence, in order to avoid owner disapproval.

Momma did it, too – Mother dogs eat their young puppies’ feces in order to keep the puppies (and the puppies’ environment) clean and healthy. Some very young puppies may join her in coprophagy  (although many grow out of the habit if the feces-eating was motivated solely by a desire to keep the environment clean).

Some dog professionals have developed theories that place the blame for the habit on the dogs’ owners. They may propose:

A big fuss – If the owner makes a huge deal out of the behavior (and it’s hard not to!) the possibility exists that poop takes on special importance to the dog. A dog may interpret the owner’s response as interest in, or competition for, this high-value item. A simpler explanation may be that poop eating becomes an attention-getting behavior.

Valuable item – Some trainers and behaviorists believe that it’s possible to turn poop eating into a resource-guarding behavior, for the above reason (the owner’s interest in the feces). This would likely be the case if your dog growls at you over attempts to interrupt feces eating. If this is your situation, it is likely that the assistance of a qualified trainer is in order to help you address this behavior.

Prevention Strategies

Whatever the cause of your dog’s coprophagy, a solid plan for prevention through management and training is necessary. If he shows any interest in eating poop, do not delay addressing this behavior. Careful management combined with training incompatible behaviors and a bit of counter-conditioning will be invaluable.

Some possible strategies include:

Praising your dog as he poops. As soon as he’s done, offer him some treats, so quickly that he doesn’t even think about his deposit. (You must use food rewards that your dog likes more than poop!)

Managing your dog with a leash: moving him away from the feces as soon as he’s done and feeding high-value, super yummy treats as you pick up the pile and move on. This can be accomplished by tossing a handful of treats on the ground (away from the poop), so you can pick up the feces without your pup trying to nose in. Remember to praise your pup all the while for eating the treats and ignoring the poop.

Classically conditioning your dog to associate feces with good stuff from you. The second you notice that he has zeroed in on a pile of poop, stick a yummy treat in front of his nose; if you are consistent and use high-value treats, soon your dog will look at you for a treat whenever he notices poop. Be ready to reinforce this behavior at any time!

If you already have a clicker-trained dog, using operant conditioning. Click or verbally mark your dog for noticing feces and immediately treat. You can do this with deliberate set-ups or during any walk when a pile of poop is spotted.

Teaching your feces-loving dog “leave-it” is a must. Always reward him handsomely for “leaving” feces. Trained to great fluency, a behavior like “Leave it,” will give you great control over your dog in this and many other situations.

Training an incompatible behavior. For example, teach your dog to sit and look at you for a series of treats immediately after pooping; he cannot do this and eat poop at the same time!

Conditioning your dog to love wearing a muzzle. This will be of some help, though a determined dog may still dive for feces unless you use some of the other strategies suggested here.

Using a substance with an unpleasant taste to make coprophagy aversive. This will only work for dogs who eat other dogs’ feces, so that it can be tainted in advance without the dog seeing it done. Otherwise the dog may learn to avoid only the feces that he has seen being sprinkled with icky stuff.

Managing your dog during elimination even in your yard. All pooping must be supervised with your dog on leash. The behaviors that dogs practice and enjoy increase; ones they never get a chance to engage in decrease and eventually extinguish. Don’t give your dog the opportunity to practice feces-eating. Ever!

Keeping the yard completely free of feces. Very scrupulous management will stop the dog from practicing the habit.

Never using punishment when trying to fix this problem. Punishment is highly unlikely to work and could, for reasons stated earlier, easily make the problem worse.

Dietary Approach

Some animal care professionals believe that coprophagy may be related to dietary deficiencies. Improving (or just changing) the dog’s diet might address any nutritional deficits that could possibly contribute to this behavior.

– Switch to a higher-quality commerical food with higher protein and fat content, and lower carbohydrates.
Feed high-quality raw or a home-cooked diet.

– Add nutritional yeast (also called brewer’s yeast) to your dog’s daily meals to supply necessary B vitamins and thiamine).

– Add a commercial product to the dog’s food that gives the dog’s feces an unpleasant taste. This is worth trying if the dog only eats his own feces. These products can be found on-line or at local pet supply stores.

– Add digestive enzymes, on the theory that undigested matter in poop attracts the dog to eat it. This will be helpful only if the dog eats his own feces. Digestive enzymes can be found in health food stores and pet supply stores.

– When feces-eating questions show up on training and dog owner groups on the Internet, supplements like pineapple, papaya, and MSG are often mentioned as possible remedies. Based on my reading on the dog lists, few people actually report success with using these.

Lifestyle Changes

If your dog’s feces-eating is caused by stress, you can make lifestyle changes to reduce the likelihood of coprophagy.

– Schedule sufficient and appropriate exercise and play for your dog every day; a tired dog is a better-behaved dog. Make sure the activities you choose are age- and health-appropriate, and leave your pup tired and relaxed. An on-leash walk, even a long one, may not the kind of tiring aerobic exercise that will help. Your dog needs a real romp, such as playing with other dogs at the dog park, an extended game of fetch, jogging or romping in the woods with you, or swimming in a pond or pool.

– Schedule an in-depth health exam to rule out pancreatic insufficiency or malnutrition (especially in a recently rescued dog).

– Dogs need to use their brains and their bodies in fun and challenging ways to stay emotionally healthy. If your dog doesn’t know basic good manners behaviors, teach these. In particular, focus on teaching your dog calm behaviors that promote self-control, such as:

– Sit to “Say please”
– Leave it or Off
– Drop it
– Down/stay

Be sure to provide your dog with lots of interesting (to the dog!) chew toys, puzzles, and food-dispensing toys.

If none of the activities listed above work for your dog or your lifestyle, there are some excellent books available with ideas for fun ways to play with your dog, both indoors and out. Some of them include training simple tricks, and none require expensive equipment. See the box above for three excellent books on how to encourage and structure play with dogs. If you think your dog doesn’t know how to play, these books are definitely for you!

Try Everything

Despite the revulsion we bipeds experience at the thought of feces eating, coprophagy is not uncommon in dogs. The good news is that for most dogs it is a modifiable behavior. As with all canine behavior problems, implementing a careful and well crafted treatment plan will likely lead to diminishing or even ending this behavior. Consistency and a long-term approach applied with patience and planning will win the day.

Viviane Arzoumanian, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, PMCT2, CBATI, trains dogs professionally and for various rescue organizations. She lives in Brooklyn, NY.

Complete and Balanced Dehydrated Dog Foods

Dehydrated dog foods are increasingly popular.

[Updated March 22, 2018]

We haven’t reviewed dehydrated diets for quite some time – long enough that there have been quite a few additions to the pool of companies who make and sell this type of dog food. It’s increasingly popular, for a lot of reasons.

For one thing, “raw diets” are increasingly popular, too, and most of the products in this category incorporate raw animal proteins in their formulations. People who believe in the superiority of canine diets that include raw meat (often referred to as biologically appropriate or evolutionary diets) can use a dehydrated or freeze-dried food as a convenient replacement for their dogs’ fresh, home-prepared or commercial frozen raw diet. This is especially helpful when traveling with a raw-fed dog, or when the dog is left with a sitter who doesn’t want to deal with raw meat in its wet, bloody form. (One maker of dehydrated diets, ZiwiPeak, describes its products as “raw without the thaw.”)

When it’s dehydrated or freeze-dried, raw meat doesn’t seem so, well, raw. Most of us don’t think of beef jerky as raw meat, either, but it actually is. The drying process (and, in jerky, the use of salt and nitrates) “cures” the meat, altering its appearance and texture and concentrating its flavor – and, significantly, halting the biological action (decay) in the food – with less damage to the meat’s natural enzymes or vitamins than cooking temperatures would cause.

All the ingredients in canned food are cooked in the can. Some ingredients in kibble are actually cooked twice; meat “meals,” for example, are first subjected to rendering (essentially boiling, drying, and then grinding) and then extrusion (pushed through a tube under high pressure and subjected to a short blast of high-temperature steam) and drying. Plainly, the proteins in the meat ingredients are still nutritious after being extruded, but, raw food proponents allege, not nearly as healthful for canines as they were in their raw form.

Most of the other ingredients in freeze-dried or dehydrated foods are raw, too. Plus, they are very lightly processed, in comparison to the ingredients in other types of dog foods.

Raw diets aren’t for every dog or owner. Cooked foods may be safer for immune-compromised individuals. Some dogs digest cooked foods better.

Note: At least one maker of dehydrated foods (NRG USA) uses cooked meats in some of its products.

Benefits of Feeding Dehydrated Dog Food

In addition to being raw and lightly processed, dehydrated diets offer a number of other benefits to dogs – and their owners.

1. Dehydrated dog food won’t go bad (for a while).

Very low-moisture foods can be stored longer at room temperature (in unopened packages) without spoiling or rancidity than conventional kibble. Most dehydrated diets contain less moisture than conventional kibble, which generally contains about 10 percent moisture. The less moisture there is in a food, the less biological activity can occur.

2. Dehydrated food is lighter and more portable.

Dehydrated foods weigh less and are more compact than foods containing more moisture. This makes them especially well suited for travel. It also means they cost less to ship!

3. Raw dehydrated/freeze-dried food tastes amazing to dogs.

When rehydrated, these foods are highly palatable to most dogs. It may be due to the concentration of flavor in dehydrated food ingredients or their light processing. Dogs with poor appetites (like very senior or chronically ill dogs) may accept these foods when nothing else appeals.

4. Top-quality ingredients are the rule, not the exception, in dehydrated dog food.

As a generalization, the makers of these products are targeting the top end of the market, and have an extraordinary commitment to sourcing top-quality ingredients; in some cases, “human-quality” (“edible”) ingredients are used (though this claim can be made and verified by only one dehydrated dog food manufacturer: The Honest Kitchen).

The Different Categories of Dehydrated Dog Food

The dehydrated foods on the market are diverse in content, appearance, and form. Some contain grains and some don’t. Some are very high in protein and fat, and some compare in these respects to conventional kibble. Always check the “guaranteed analysis” when switching to a product in this category; they are so nutrient-dense that you may have to significantly reduce the volume of food that you feed your dog.

Most of these products are meant to be rehydrated with water before serving, although one (ZiwiPeak) contains a higher amount of moisture than kibble, and is fed without rehydration. One (DNA) comes in a cubed form, and reabsorbs a relatively small amount of water. Some are very powdery, which makes them turn into a sort of mush (or gruel, depending on how much water you add) when rehydrated. Some are powdery with large chunks of identifiable dehydrated meats, fruit, and/or vegetables – either an advantage (if your dog enjoys the contrast in taste and mouth-feel) or a disadvantage (if your dog seeks out only the chunks or mush and eschews the other). The products that come in dried “burger” or “medallion” form reconstitute in a form that most resembles an actual ground meat patty.

If you read the descriptions of each product, note that some contain “air-dried” or “dehydrated” (same thing) or freeze-dried ingredients. The difference in nutritional content of foods processed in either manner is negligible. However, dehydration alters the cellular structure of meats, fruits, and vegetables  more radically altering their appearance and taste than freeze-drying. Rehydrated, freeze-dried ingredients taste remarkably similar to their fresh, moist counterparts. Does this matter to your dog? You’d have to try different products to find out. Note that the freeze-drying process requires higher-tech, more expensive machines, making the cost of foods that contain freeze-dried ingredients quite a bit higher.

Because the cost of these products is so high, we’d imagine that few people feed them full-time, especially if their dog or dogs are large. I calculated the cost of feeding some of these products to my 70-pound, active dog at more than $200 a month – more than what it would cost to feed a home-prepared diet. Personally, I’d most likely use them only for a small dog, or on a short-term basis while traveling, as a special treat, to jump-start a sick dog’s recovery, or to extend the life of a chronically ill dog.

“Human-Quality” Dog Food Ingredients

As we’ve discussed many times in WDJ, there is only one way that a company can legally claim that its dog food contains ingredients that are “human quality” (the legal term is “edible,” though of course regulators mean only “human edible” in this context): If it is made in a manufacturing facility that contains only edible ingredients. The presence of a single “inedible” ingredient in a manufacturing facility, by law, would re-classify every ingredient and product present at that location as “pet food.” By law, you can take a refrigerated truckload of the world’s finest, freshest, cleanest filet mignon to a facility that makes pet food, but the second the truck drives onto the facility’s property (or the moment the truck’s door is opened, accounts vary), none of that meat can be called edible or human-quality again.

This is frustrating to the pet food makers who genuinely use ingredients of that quality, and to consumers who want proof – a certain way to verify – the true quality and provenance of the ingredients in their dog’s very expensive food. But unless a food company wants to use only edible ingredients, and have its products made in a facility that uses only edible ingredients, jump through a million bureaucratic hoops to demonstrate completion of these requirements to the regulators in every single state – and price its products accordingly – it can’t say it uses “human-quality” ingredients. Only one company that we know of (the Honest Kitchen) can make this legal claim for its products, which are made in a human food manufacturing facility in Illinois (which also makes human soup mixes and other human foods that contain dehydrated human food ingredients).

Pet food makers who do use “edible” meats and other ingredients in their products sometimes resort to using code words to give consumers a hint about their ingredient quality. They have to be subtle, though, because if they are too overt, state feed control officials can hit them with a warning, fine, and/or stop-sale order.

Here’s the problem with that approach: Because it’s illegal, it’s not verifiable! And because it can’t be confirmed (say, by checking the manufacturer’s registration as a human food manufacturing facility), any company can slyly hint about their alleged “human-quality” ingredients, whether they really use them or not.

If ingredient quality is critical to you – if you insist on and are willing to pay for foods that contain only “edible” ingredients, your only sure options are to home-prepare your dog’s food with ingredients you buy from human food sources, or to buy products from The Honest Kitchen.

Alternatively, you can engage in conversation with representatives of pet food companies who make what appear to be (based on their ingredients lists) very high-quality foods, and ask them about the provenance of their ingredients. If they claim (or hint) that some of their ingredients are “human-grade,” “just like the ones you buy in the supermarket,” “USDA,” or some other code-phrase, ask them to discuss this further – and do a gut-check on their reply. It’s all you’ll really have to go on.

Nancy Kerns is Editor of WDJ.

Download the Full June 2013 Issue PDF

...
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member.

Join Whole Dog Journal

Get full access to Whole-Dog-Journal.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $20.
Join today and save 30% off our full price.
Already a member?
| Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Download the Full May 2013 Issue PDF

...
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member.

Join Whole Dog Journal

Get full access to Whole-Dog-Journal.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $20.
Join today and save 30% off our full price.
Already a member?
| Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

New Guides In Town

0

When buying food for their dogs, owners depend on the product manufacturers to deliver a “complete and balanced” diet in those bags, cans, and frozen packages. Perhaps without even being aware of it, owners also understand that there are government agencies responsible for setting standards as to what constitutes a “complete and balanced diet” for dogs, and for making sure that pet food makers meet those standards. We count on manufacturers and regulators alike to “get it right” so we can feel confident that our pets are getting everything they need, in just the right amounts.

288

So, it’s a bit disconcerting to learn that the three most important players in the setting of those nutritional standards have made changes to the nutrient lists and nutrient levels in recent years – and that each organization’s recommended nutrient “profiles” or “guidelines” differ from the others in some significant ways.

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the arbiter of American pet food’s “nutrient profiles” – a table of all the vitamins, minerals, protein and its constituent amino acids, and fat and its constituent fatty acids that are needed (and a minimum amount or acceptable range for each nutrient).

AAFCO’s ingredient definitions and nutritional guidelines are developed with substantial input from the pet food industry, such as the Pet Food Institute (PFI, a lobbying organization for pet food companies), American Feed Industry Association, National Grain and Feed Association, and the National Renderers Association. Academia plays a role, too, as lots of nutrition research (often funded by pet food companies) is conducted at universities with agricultural and/or veterinary departments. Industry representatives are non-voting advisors to the committees who set the standards. AAFCO itself has no regulatory authority; it’s up to states to adopt and enforce the AAFCO model regulations of feed ingredients and nutrient guidelines as laws.

Historically, to build its “Dog and Cat Food Nutrient Profiles,” AAFCO relied heavily on guidelines created by the National Research Council (NRC), a branch of the National Academies. (Scientists are elected to the National Academies to serve as independent advisers on scientific matters. The Academies do not receive direct appropriations from the federal government, although many of their activities are mandated and funded by Congress and federal agencies.)

The NRC substantially revised and updated its “Nutrient Requirements for Dogs and Cats” in 2006; the previous version was published in 1985.
AAFCO has been revising its own guidelines, and expects to publish the updated “Dog and Cat Food Nutrient Profiles” in 2014, presumably with a grace period before companies must comply with the changes. Additional changes scheduled to be put in place around the same time include requiring all pet food labels to provide information on calories, and adding new minimum requirements for omega-3 fatty acids for growth and reproduction.

A European group analogous to AAFCO, called the European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF), published its own revised guidelines in 2012. (The FEDIAF regulations are important to U.S. pet food companies, since many manufacture foods that are sold in both the U.S. and Europe.)
Both AAFCO and FEDIAF relied at least in part on the NRC guidelines, yet there are substantial differences between the three groups’ recommendations.

Pet foods sold in the U.S. that display “complete and balanced” on their labels must meet AAFCO requirements, while those that are also sold in Europe must meet AAFCO and FEDIAF guidelines. Exceptions are made for foods that use feeding trials to prove nutritional adequacy, or meet product family criteria (where foods that are substantially similar to another food made by the same company do not have to be separately tested). There is no requirement that any foods comply with NRC recommendations.

Comparison Difficulties
It’s not easy to compare nutritional guidelines between these three organizations. For starters, nutrient requirements can be presented in three different ways:

As a percentage of food on a dry matter (DM) basis.  This value is complicated by the assumption that the food has a particular energy density.

As an amount per 1,000 kilocalories (kcal, or what is commonly referred to as calories). NRC calculates nutrient values for calories based on the needs of a healthy, active dog, not the calories a dog actually consumes. A dog’s nutritional needs are not reduced when he consumes fewer calories as he gets older or slows down.

As an amount per body weight of the dog. Body weight is computed to the ¾ power, a mathematical computation that accounts for the fact that large dogs eat less for their weight than small dogs do. That critical step, however, is often overlooked or ignored when people talk about nutrient requirements based on body weight. In addition, these guidelines should be applied to a dog’s ideal weight, not actual weight. An obese dog does not require more nutrition than a dog of proper weight, nor does a thin dog need less.

Each of these methods will produce the same results if the energy density is accounted for and the caloric requirement is calculated based on the ideal body weight of a healthy, active dog.

NRC provides nutrient guidelines presented in all three ways, while AAFCO and FEDIAF use only the first two methodologies. FEDIAF increases many NRC values by 20 percent to account for its assumption that pet dogs need fewer calories than what NRC calculates.

To make comparisons even more difficult, different units of measurement are used with some nutrients. For example, NRC shows vitamin A recommendations in RE (retinal equivalents), vitamin D in micrograms, and vitamin E in milligrams; AAFCO and FEDIAF both use international units (IU) for all three. Complicated conversions are required to compare the different units.

Additional differences arise between how life stages are grouped. NRC provides separate recommendations for growth (including subsections in some cases for puppies 4 to 14 weeks old, and those older than 14 weeks); adult dogs for maintenance; and late gestation and peak lactation (pregnancy and nursing). Further modifications are made based on the number and age of puppies during lactation. AAFCO and FEDIAF use just two categories, “adult maintenance” and “growth and reproduction,” grouping puppies and females who are pregnant or nursing together. Foods that meet the requirements for both groups can be classified as meeting the guidelines for “all life stages.”

Lastly, the target amounts for the nutritional guidelines can be expressed in several different ways. NRC uses the following categories, not all of which are provided for every nutrient:

– Minimal Requirement
– Adequate Intake
– Recommended Allowance
– Safe Upper Limit
 
The “recommended allowance” is not meant to be an ideal amount, but rather takes into account practical considerations of formulation and ingredients, and is therefore the most appropriate category to use for comparison to AAFCO and FEDIAF.

AAFCO provides only a recommended minimum amount, and, in many cases, a maximum amount. FEDIAF does the same, but also includes some maximums based on European laws. Surprisingly, NRC does not show a safe upper limit for most nutrients, including some that are known to be toxic in high amounts, such as zinc and iron.

When units per 1,000 kcal are compared between the three agencies, many of the recommendations are identical, and others are close enough that any differences are probably due to minor conversion and rounding discrepancies. This likely reflects both AAFCO’s and FEDIAF’s reliance on the NRC guidelines. But some values are markedly different.

Some discrepancies can be explained by the difference in life stage groupings. For example, AAFCO and FEDIAF may choose to use NRC’s recommended allowance for young puppies for their “growth and reproduction” category, even though NRC’s recommendations for lactating females may be higher.
Other cases are not readily explainable. NRC’s recommended protein amount for adult dogs, for example, is just 10 percent protein on a dry matter basis, which is extremely low. Fortunately, both AAFCO and FEDIAF use more moderate values, requiring a minimum of 18 percent protein (DM) for adult dogs.

Varying calcium levels are similarly inexplicable. NRC gives a single acceptable range of calcium per 1,000 kcal for growing puppies after weaning, while FEDIAF has different ranges for puppies before and after 14 weeks of age, plus separate categories for puppies in the older group, based on whether their anticipated adult weight is below or above 15 kg (33 pounds). The FEDIAF’s more comprehensive guidelines appear to reflect knowledge gained in the last two decades of how excess calcium causes bone and joint abnormalities in large breed puppies, who are especially vulnerable prior to the age of about six months, but that doesn’t explain why the NRC does not account for the greater risk of too much calcium in this group.

Ideally, pet foods would be formulated to meet the requirements for all three agencies, to ensure that foods provide at least the highest minimum value and do not exceed the lowest maximum value of the three for each nutrient. In addition, even though a food does not have to meet AAFCO guidelines if a feeding trial is done, it still should do so. Feeding trials are considered the “gold standard” by the industry, but in our opinion, they are not of long enough duration to reveal health problems caused by many nutritional inadequacies or excesses, especially for adult dogs. The use of feeding trials and the narrower range of nutrient guidelines agreed on by the three agencies provide the best guarantee that the diet you feed really is “complete and balanced.”

Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She lives with her Norwich Terrier, Ella, in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Diabetic Alert Dogs

Service dogs for people with diabetes are the “tattletales” of the dog world, according to Rita Martinez, co-author of a new book, Training Your Diabetic Alert Dog. The job for these special dogs is to notice a change in a person’s blood glucose level, and then tell that person about it. If that person doesn’t “listen” to the dog or isn’t able to respond, then a diabetic alert dog may tell someone else!

288

No one knows this better than Sisi Belcher, whose dog Nicolina has sounded the alarm on more than a few occasions. Perhaps the most dramatic happened one time when Belcher was at work.

Nicolina had accompanied Belcher to her office, which was at the police department on a university campus. Keeping blood glucose in the proper range is a constant challenge for someone with Type 1 diabetes. If Belcher failed to respond to an alert or was having a problem, Nicolina had been known to go to Belcher’s coworkers for help. On this particular day, however, Belcher was alone in the office when her blood glucose crashed. Nicolina likely looked for help from the usual coworkers, but when she couldn’t find anyone, this resourceful dog took matters into her own paws.

Nicolina traveled down the hallway of the building and ended up at a break room where a group of police officers were hanging out. The officers quickly assessed the situation: What was Nicolina doing there alone? Where was Belcher? They went to investigate, knowing something must be wrong. The police officers found Belcher unable to respond, but, thanks to Nicolina’s efforts, they were able to call for medical assistance and Belcher received the help she needed.

Only Nicolina knows exactly what went through her mind that particular day, but it is evident that this diabetic alert dog was creative and resourceful, and took her job as a tattletale dog very seriously.

A DOG ON THE JOB
Fortunately, and in most cases, a diabetic alert dog (also called a DAD) can alert the person before outside medical intervention is needed. In fact, one of the advantages of living with a DAD is that they can often detect changes in blood glucose well before it registers on a blood glucose meter or continuous glucose monitor.

Martinez says that over the years, the experiences of people who are paired with a DAD show that dogs generally detect and alert to raises or drops in blood glucose 15 to 30 minutes before the changes show up on a meter.

“That means [people with diabetes] can act on correcting their blood glucose level sooner, before it gets as far out of range,” says Martinez. Treating glucose fluctuations sooner means better disease control and may help protect against the eye, brain, and kidney damage that is so often caused by diabetes. Most people who live with a DAD have improved management of their disease.

Dogs cannot replace the other interventions and support a person with diabetes must use, but a DAD does offer another option. Belcher notes that Nicolina has alerted her many times before the meter registered changes. As Belcher watches her dog, she says, “Just look at her nose. It is always going.”

ALL ABOUT THE NOSE
Just how can a DAD beat out a glucose meter? Scientists are not entirely sure why, but when a person’s blood glucose changes, it creates a specific scent or odor. This scent surrounds the person and is found in breath, saliva, and sweat. The change in scent is easily detected by a dog’s amazing sense of smell, and with more than 220 million scent receptors (as opposed to the mere 5 million that people have) recognizing odor is a natural job for a dog. A diabetic alert dog, however, does more than just recognize the odor. A DAD is trained to provide a clear sign, called an alert, whenever the odor is present. He can show if glucose is high or low, and most DADs are also trained to go find help if the person does not respond.

The protocol that Martinez uses and describes in Training Your Diabetic Alert Dog begins by teaching the dog the alert first, before any scent work is added into the training. Using clicker training methods, each dog is taught a specific initial alert behavior (often a nose nudge for larger dogs or a soft pawing action for smaller dogs). Each dog is also taught two additional signals: one for high glucose and one for low glucose.

For example, a dog may nose-nudge the person’s leg to indicate there is a scent change. This is the initial alert signal. Then the person being alerted can present a flat hand and the dog may nudge the hand upward for high glucose and downward for low glucose. Martinez recommends that the dog’s handler choose alert and signal behaviors that a dog can easily do anywhere, at any time.

Once the alert and high and low signals are completely reliable and on a verbal cue, only then does the scent work begin. To teach the dog how to recognize the odor, a sample of saliva can be taken during a high or low glucose period. The samples can be kept in a freezer and brought out for training sessions. To start off, the dog is presented with the sample, and is rewarded when he recognizes the scent. Martinez calls this the imprinting step and says that dogs will generally learn to recognize the scent very quickly, over a few short sessions.

Once the dog knows the alert behavior and has imprinted on the scent, then he is trained using an alert chain. The alert chain in training may look like:

Dog recognizes the scent; the person gives a verbal cue for the alert behavior; the dog performs the alert behavior; the person clicks and treats.

Quickly, the dog will begin to pair the scent as the cue for the alert behavior. The scent becomes the environmental cue for that behavior. The chain, once established, will transform to:

Dog recognizes the scent; the dog offers the alert without being asked; the person then clicks and treats.

Training, of course, does not stop here. DADs need to learn to offer the alert spontaneously, not just when they are “playing the game” and training cues are present. The high and low signals can be added to the chain. The dogs must learn to do the alert and signals in a variety of situations, such as in public and in a car. They must learn that alerting is important even when they are playing. They must learn to wake up and alert at night.

There are many steps to training a DAD to understand that giving the alert reliably and in every situation is what will earn them a reward. Martinez emphasizes that it is a labor-intensive process, and you need to take your time in order to have a dog who both loves his job and does it consistently and accurately.

DOG’S REWARD?
For the person, having a dog to help with disease management is an obvious reward. And, for the dog lover, getting to spend 24/7 with his or her dog is an added bonus.

But what about the dog? Being a DAD is hard work. DADs must be aware all of the time. They must sometimes leave something they are enjoying to offer an alert.

Like any dog, the reward is a critical part of the job. In order for a DAD to be reliable, the “paycheck” must be very valuable and it must be given generously. For Nicolina, that paycheck comes in the form of a hot dog.

“She will do anything for a hot dog,” says Belcher.

But the paycheck is only one piece of what drives a DAD to do the job. Belcher and Martinez agree that the bond that forms between the handler and the dog is also part of the motivation puzzle. Both person and dog benefit from this tight relationship, and like any good relationship, it just grows stronger over time. But there is another piece that really makes this a special kind of work for a dog.
“These dogs love their job, they are thrilled they are able to do it,” said Martinez. “A dog using his nose is one of the most natural things there is. For them to be able to do it, and have fun, and make someone happy – well, there is nothing better.” But Martinez also emphasizes that this is not a job every dog will take to and you cannot force a dog to perform it.

“He has to want to do it,” says Martinez. All dogs have the nose to be alert dogs, but for a really reliable DAD, the dog must also want to do it and enjoy doing it. Much the way a herder loves to move sheep, a DAD must love to recognize odor and play the alert game.

DIFFERENT FROM OTHER SCENTING DOGS
DADs and other medical alert dogs are recognizing scent, but they do so in a much different way than your typical search and rescue dog, law enforcement dog, or even a dog who enjoys the sport of nose work.

Searching for a missing person, a cadaver, drugs, or the birch oil used in the sport of nose work all involve the handler giving a cue first, and the dog searching for the scent second. Dogs that search know when they are on duty, and have plenty of time in their life when they are not on duty.
A DAD must be on the lookout for the scent at all times. The DAD must take initiative and announce (tattle) when the scent is present. They don’t have the benefit of the handler saying: There is something for you to find here. Go look.

Another thing a DAD must do is to keep pushing, even if you dismiss or do not listen. They are trained to continue alerting until someone listens (and they are given their reward).

THE LIFE-SKILLS OF A GREAT DAD
The enthusiasm that makes for a great DAD is something that can be encouraged, but the dog has to possess the right personality traits to start with. Martinez says that the type of dog who does well as a DAD is alert enough to recognize the scent and act on it independently, without any prompts.

Like all service animals, a DAD who is certified for public access must also have a comfort level with odd situations and be secure enough not to need to investigate new places, people, or animals.

A DAD has to be a dog who naturally walks that fine line between too much enthusiasm (some would call it drive) and not enough enthusiasm. A good DAD candidate is a thinking dog who feels confident when she needs to take initiative, but does so in a calm manner.

Nicolina, by all casual appearances, is a typical low-key yellow Lab. She kicks back, resting quietly at a coffee house. She can hang out with Belcher at work all day. She is comfortable with other animals and loves children. She travels through airports and is not fazed by the screening or security. But once she is on the scent, she becomes insistent and determined. And that balance of persistence and calm is what makes a DAD do her job well.

For example, when Nicolina smells or detects a change in Belcher’s scent, she will sit in front of Belcher and stare intently. This is her first alert. If Belcher does not respond, Nicolina ups the ante to a nudge. If Belcher still does not respond, Nicolina will bark at her, and if there is still no response, Nicolina will calmly find Belcher’s husband, coworker, or another helper.

FINDING A DAD
A DAD can be any type of dog, as long as he has the right personality for the job. A calm, friendly terrier or a Lab with enthusiasm will both enjoy the job of a DAD. You can start with a puppy but a well-socialized rescue dog with the right personality can be just as good a candidate. You can train a dog yourself, with the help of a qualified service dog trainer. Or you can choose to find a dog through a service dog program.

Getting a dog from a service dog program is a good option for some people. The program trains the dog first, and then trains you how to live with the dog. The advantages are that you get dogs that have a proven record of enjoying the job and that have been public access certified. The disadvantages are that there is often a long waiting list, there may be some restrictions regarding the placement of the dog, and the organization may retain ownership of the dog. Some organizations provide DADs free to a qualified person; but others charge a lot of money for a trained dog.

Whether you want to get a dog from an organization or train one yourself with the help of a qualified service dog trainer, always do your due diligence. Check out the trainer or the organization carefully. Ask how long they have been doing it, look into their reputation (not just what they say on their website), and check references.

The advantages of working privately with a trainer include that you will have the opportunity to bond during the socialization and training phase, and you will learn from the process how to keep your dog’s skills up. And a reputable service dog trainer will have the same stringent requirements and certification for public access that an organization should possess.

288

The disadvantage is that you won’t have confirmation of your puppy or adult dog’s aptitude until about four months into the process; will the dog you have really want to do this job? Martinez says that it can be difficult to find just the right dog, one who wants to do the job, but is also naturally relaxed. If your dog does not pass the “want to” test, or for some other reason is not the right dog for the job, will you be able, emotionally, to place her in a good home and start again?

Either way, getting a dog via a service organization or working with a private trainer to train your own dog, you will need to continue the foundation training throughout your dog’s life. Belcher says that she and Nicolina practice the public access behaviors and alert behaviors every day, and they get recertified once a year.

LIVING WITH A DAD
Martinez says that living with a service dog is not for everyone. The DAD will become someone who accompanies you everywhere. They are not tools or servants, but life partners. They will also become someone whose needs are equal to your own as you go through your day.
Living with a DAD will take your time and energy and add another expense. Your entire family will be impacted. If you have other pets in the house, they will also be affected.

One of the most important requirements for living with a DAD is meeting his  need to be a dog and engage in dog activities. For example, Belcher works hard to make sure that Nicolina has plenty of opportunity to enjoy life. Nicolina, says Belcher, is a fun-loving and social dog. She enjoys greeting people, playing with her Wubba Wubba toy, chasing a Frisbee, and long walks.

Living with a DAD, Belcher says, will change your life dramatically. If you love dogs, the walking and playing will be enjoyable. For a person living with a DAD, the public access requirement may bring the biggest rewards and also some of the biggest challenges, says Belcher. You will become a walking billboard that says: I have a medical problem.

“Nicolina draws a lot of attention,” says Belcher. “You have to be very patient with people.” Belcher says when you live with a DAD, you have to be comfortable with strangers knowing there is a reason you need a service dog and asking questions about your medical condition and about your dog.
Belcher says she sometimes feels like a public educator. She also acknowledges that there are rare times when she just doesn’t want to talk with or educate strangers. But she’s also had some wonderful conversations from interactions that some might consider an intrusion. She’s been able to let other diabetics know about DADs as partners, and about some of the medical studies and treatments that she’s participated in.

Martinez says that it is also not uncommon for a person who has a service dog to be discriminated against. It is illegal to prevent access to people with service dogs, but not all business owners and landlords know this. It is sometimes necessary for a person to insist on her right to public access. Being assertive and comfortable speaking up is helpful if you live with any type of service dog.

Martinez emphasizes that it is very important to respect a person’s right to have a dog to aid him or her with a disability. And, while most people who approach to talk with the person or pet the dog mean well, it is still an intrusion. It is important to be sensitive and not distract service dogs.

FIRST AND FOREMOST, DADS ARE DOGS
Martinez and Belcher both emphasize that having a dog will not fix your diabetes, or make you better. Dogs are not perfect. They make mistakes or may miss a signal. Belcher is quick to point out that people also make mistakes and that the equipment used for checking and monitoring glucose is not perfect either.

It is about the teamwork. Belcher says, “I have my medical interventions, I have my husband, and I have my dog.” A DAD is one part of the support team that can help a person with diabetes stay healthier. It is also a job that is naturally suited for some of our canine friends.

Special thanks to Rita Martinez and Sisi Belcher for their contributions to this article.

Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA is a writer and trainer who is having a lot of fun learning about all types of scent work! She lives in Santa Cruz, California with her partner and a heeler-mix named Chance.

The Dog’s Mind

In the not-too-distant past, if you heard the word “dog” and “mind” in the same sentence, someone was probably talking about obedience, as in: “My dog minds pretty well.” Or, “You’d better mind me, or else!” Today, if you hear those two words in relation to each other, you are at least as likely to be listening to someone talking about canine cognition – the fascinating possibility that dogs are far more able to process thoughts and grasp concepts than previously given credit for.

Only in the past 15 years has the domestic dog begun to be accepted as a study subject for behavioral research.  Brian Hare, PhD, professor of evolutionary anthropology at Duke University, is one of the people who have legitimized the field, and I was thrilled to have the opportunity to interview him recently, on the occasion of the publication of his enlightening new book, The Genius of Dogs: How Dogs are Smarter Than You Think (Dutton, 2013).

Dr. Hare opened the Duke Canine Cognition Center (DCCC) in the fall of 2009. With his wife and co-author Vanessa Woods (a research scientist at DCCC, as well as an award-winning journalist and author of Bonobo Handshake), Hare wrote the book to provide a comprehensive review of what they’ve been studying at the DCCC – everything about dog cognition or, as they call it, “dognition.” Their goal was to bring historical and current information about canine cognition to the general public.

The Genius of Dogs covers a lot of material. Dr. Hare writes about his own dog-related experiences, professional and personal, such as visiting Russian scientist Dmitrii Konstantinovich Belyaev’s famous silver fox breeding compound in Novosibirsk, Siberia (Belyaev died in 1985, but others continue his work there); working with New Guinea Singing Dogs at the New Guinea Singing Dog Conservation Society in Eugene, Oregon; and struggling with training challenges he encountered with his own dog, Milo, a probable Lab/Chow mix. It’s a fascinating book, even given that other behavioral scientists have been critical of some of Hare’s conclusions about canine cognition, accusing him of overreaching at least a little.

Hare was a delight to interview. He is wildly enthusiastic about his work and can only be described as effervescent when speaking about his book, the Dognition website, and canine cognition in general.

Pat Miller: Your new book on canine cognition, The Genius of Dogs, co-written with your wife, Vanessa Woods, recently made the New York Times Best Seller list. Why did you write it?

Dr. HARE: There were a few things we wanted to communicate:

1) Science is really excited about dogs. That’s not always been the case.

2) There was not a book written that tried to do a historical review of the field of behavior aimed at the general public/dog-owning audience. We wanted to write that book and make the information accessible.

3) We wanted to explain how scientists think about intelligence.

4) And we wanted to discuss how an evolutionary approach can help us understand our dogs – and ourselves.

Miller: Thirty years ago, the words “canine” and “cognition” weren’t often used in the same sentence. Why has that changed?

Dr. HARE: Because a cognitive revolution has occurred, just in the last 10 to 15 years. What’s going on in the minds of animals has become central to our understanding of psychology.

Miller: You say that another cognitive limitation is that dogs do not understand what someone knows or doesn’t know. How do we know that? Is it possible we may find out otherwise down the road, just as we once said animals didn’t feel pain, couldn’t use tools, didn’t have emotions?

Dr. HARE: It’s absolutely possible. It’s important to understand what science is: It is fun and powerful and you can be part of it (you don’t have to have a PhD). It’s also fluid. In part it’s about discovering “truth” – and even more, it’s about falsification of past conclusions. The entire thesis of this book could be wrong – and could be falsified by future studies. Science is eternally a work in progress.

Miller: How is “understanding what an owner can see” (p. 245) different from “understanding what someone knows or doesn’t know”? Is it about what the person knows in the present versus what the person knew in the past?

Dr. HARE: That’s a great question, and one that can keep cognition scientists engaged in long discussions. “Understanding what an owner can see” is, in a way, understanding the geometry of the situation – understanding what the human knows in the present. The dog can see how the human orients in relation to what the dog does.

“Knowledge” is much more complicated – it involves an understanding of what was known in the past. We don’t currently think dogs can do this. We could be wrong.

Miller: You’re kind of hard on trainers and behaviorism in the last part of your book. You relegate trainers to two categories, neither of which is very flattering: the “top dog” school and the “more is better” school. Is there not a third group that currently exists – trainers who meld the work of Pavlov and Skinner with an interest in and awareness of dogs’ cognitive abilities? What role does behaviorism play, if any, in your vision of the perfect approach to dog training?

Dr. HARE: It was not my intent to be harsh toward trainers, and I apologize if that’s how we came across. I have great respect for trainers; I’m a pitiful trainer!

The goal was to say “Let’s look at these two schools of thought, and let’s look at what’s in the literature about them. And in fact, there’s not much about dog training in the scientific literature. It’s an opportunity that begs for attention.

I actually do think trainers are using a cognitive approach – because they use terms like “the dog knows,” and “the dog wants to perform.” Those are terms of cognition, not behaviorism. But trainers haven’t had access to the literature. In academia, behaviorism says operant and classical conditioning are the only approach to canine learning. There’s no room for cognition in behaviorism. And it’s not that operant and classical conditioning don’t work – of course they do. It’s just that they are one kind of intelligence and learning – one kind of many occurring in the dog’s mind. I think trainers know this. It’s perhaps just a miscommunication about definitions.

Miller: What’s your opinion of what you call the “top dog” or “alpha” approach to dog training?

Dr. HARE: Again, I’m not a trainer, but let’s look at the science. Is the rationale behind the alpha approach to training backed up by good science? There is not good evidence in the literature, and it doesn’t make much sense. In fact, the alpha thing is based on a big mistake: using wolves as a model for dog behavior.

It’s easy to get befuddled by evolution. Dogs are descended from wolves, therefore dogs are like wolves. In some ways, this is correct. But it’s also correct that dogs are a different species than wolves, and therefore they are not like wolves.

In fact, a much better model for dog behavior is the behavior of thriving packs of feral dogs. The feral dog social system is nothing like that of wolves: there is no alpha pair, no reproductive suppression, no infanticide, no fatal aggression over territory. In fact there is very little aggression in feral dog packs; the leader is simply the dog with the greatest number of affiliative relationships – the dog with the most friends.

There is one caveat – a significant difference between feral dogs and our dogs. In an established feral pack, over generations the dogs all end up being of similar size (a medium size) at maturity. The similarity in size helps to minimize aggression. We have such a huge variation in size in our companion dogs, so we do see significant aggression, both in our homes as well as places like dog parks.

Miller: You talk about the dog’s ability to “learn how to learn” as a part of cognitive training. How does this differ from what modern trainers call “learning how to learn” as a part of positive reinforcement-based training?

Dr. HARE: It probably doesn’t. It’s just an acknowledgement – one that many trainers seem to be aware of and are making use of – that canine learning goes beyond the behaviorism interpretation of simply learning and solving the same problem over and over again. Rather, dogs, through learning and experience, possess a learning set; they can actually form a concept and apply it to new problems. That’s cognition. The idea would make Skinner roll over in his grave.

Miller: You say (on page 246) “When an experimenter shows where food has been hidden but then points at another location, dogs do not search for the food they saw but instead go to where the human pointed.” I did the Dognition games yesterday with my Corgi, Lucy, and she went for the food she had seen 100 percent of the time, rather than where I pointed. Can you explain?

Dr. HARE: Studies involving dogs utilize a small sample size – usually fewer than 30 dogs. We develop group statistics based on this sample and then try to apply our conclusions to the whole population. It doesn’t necessarily mean they all do it. So if, in our study, 60 percent of the dogs go to where the human pointed, we say that’s what dogs generally do, even though 40 percent of the dogs did something else. Some dogs, like your Lucy, rely on their own memory (knowledge) more than they rely on signals from their humans.

Miller: You’ve also recently launched the online service “Dognition.” Can you describe what is offered at Dognition? Why did you create it?

Dr. HARE: As a scientist, I’m excited about outreach – communicating to people that science is fun and powerful, and they can participate in it. I see it as a service: to give people a fantastic experience and the opportunity to gain more information and better explanations about their dogs’ behaviors, to help them see and understand things about their dogs, and to enhance their relationships with their dogs.
Of course, we’re seeking to make discoveries about dogs, and to have fellow dog lovers participate in making those discoveries. We are also working to be good canine citizens; we’re offering Dognition memberships to shelters for free, to give them another tool for working with the dogs in their care.

We also plan to fund more behavioral research, and look forward to working with trainers to develop an even more cognitive approach to dog training. We really would like to see the application of our research – to help trainers see things about dogs they wouldn’t see otherwise. Our ultimate goal is to see a quantum leap forward in our ability to help dogs.

We’re already happy with what we’re seeing on the site. It’s very rewarding to see the many comments like, “I had no idea my dog was capable of doing that!”

Subscribers to Dognition will receive a new game every month to play with their dogs. They will be the first to see new discoveries in our work with canine cognition, and have access to scientists’ comments and scientific content.

The punch line for Dognition – it’s a place where you can play fun games with your dogs. “Just like we feed their stomachs, we need to feed their minds.” Dognition can help people understand that.

 

We tend to think of intelligence as that which can be measured by an IQ test. By that standard, our dogs fall low on the scale. But there are many different ways to measure a dog’s capabilities. If dogs were to develop an IQ test it might well rely on the ability to find scent – in which case they would be brilliant and we would be the dullards!

Inferences:  Having heard about Rico, the German Border Collie who learned the names of more than 200 objects, retired psychology professor John Pilley adopted an 8-week-old Border Collie pup and decided to see how many object names his dog could learn. Over a period of three years, Chaser learned the names of more than 1,000 different objects. Both Rico and Chaser, when asked to fetch an object they weren’t familiar with, unerringly picked the one object in the group for which they hadn’t learned the name. The dogs inferred that it must be the correct object, since they knew the names of all the others. Researchers tell us that this is similar to how children can learn the names of new objects.

Pilley took this research game with his dog one step further. Children are able to categorize objects. “Sock,” for example, is not just one object that happens to be a sock, but rather is a category name for all sock-objects of different sizes, colors, shapes, and textures. When scientists suggested that babies could learn words as categories and dogs could not, Pilley took up the challenge. He taught Chaser that his toys were classified into different categories. Then he mixed toys from different categories, and asked Chaser to fetch a category of toy. Chaser performed flawlessly.

Symbols: Canine cognition doubters also suggested that if dogs truly learned words, they should also be able to learn symbols. If you show a child a replica of a toy, a child understands it is a representation of a real life thing. If you show a child the replica and ask him to go get the thing, he can do it. Could a dog? Dr. Juliane Kaminski, the scientist who did the original studies with Rico in 2004, pursued this question. She used Rico and several other Border Collies, asking them to fetch toys in another room by showing them a replica of the toy, rather than using the name of the toy. Some of the replicas were the same size, some were miniatures. All of the dogs were successful at retrieving the correct object after being shown the replica. Rico and one other dog were even able to retrieve the correct toy when they were just shown a photograph of the object.

This means dogs are able to grasp concepts – the idea that something can symbolize something else. We can only wonder – and wait – to see what other incredible things the world of canine cognition science has yet to uncover about our dogs’ intelligence. Or maybe you don’t have to sit idly by and wait. You and your dog can participate!

Dr. Hare is not the first nor the only researcher working to bring attention to the cognitive abilities of the canine mind. Even the facility he founded, the Duke (University) Canine Cognition Center is not unique; similar facilities now operate at Harvard, Barnard College, the University of Florida, and many other places; in fact, you can find them all across the U.S. and Europe.

In her 2010 book Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell and Know, cognitive scientist Dr. Alexandra Horowitz, who runs the canine cognition lab at Barnard College, addresses the workings of the canine brain.

Dr. Marc Beckoff, professor emeritus of ecology and evolutionary biology at the University of Colorado, Boulder, touched on the subject back in 2002 in his book Minding Animals; Awareness, Emotions and Heart (this book is mostly about wild animals), and has written extensively about canine ethics, emotion, and intelligence over the past decade. In a July 19, 2010 post on his “Animal Emotions” blog on PsychologyToday.com, Beckoff ascribes to dogs the quality of metacognition: the ability to know what someone else knows, a concept that was long held to be a prerogative of the human brain.

Dr. Marc Hauser, an evolutionary biologist and a researcher in primate behavior, animal cognition, and human behavior, was a Harvard University professor from 1992 to 2011, regarded as “a leader in the field of animal and human cognition”. In 2011, the university found him guilty of scientific misconduct (fabricating and manipulating research data in some monkey studies) and he resigned. Reportedly, he now works with at-risk youth.

As part of his ongoing work on canine cognition, Hare and his colleagues have created a website (dognition.com) that invites – nay, begs for! – public participation. Using suggestions on dognition.com, you and your dog have fun playing cognition games together. You learn more about your dog, and your results are compiled as data for current and future studies.

According to the website, “A key aspect of the Dognition methodology is our use of Citizen Science – research that can be conducted by everyone, not just people with PhDs. By gathering this data we can begin to understand more about all dogs, much more quickly and on a broader scale than if scientists had to conduct this research themselves.” Citizen science. I love it!

In preparation for my interview with Dr. Hare, I worked through the Dognition Toolkit games with my 9-year-old Cardigan Welsh Corgi, Lucy. It was fun – and a little stressful (for example, when I had to set her up to “disobey” her “Leave it” cue). I was bemused to discover in one of the games that Lucy does not do what the majority of dogs do: Rather than going to the empty upside-down cup I point to, she consistently goes to the upside-down cup on the opposite side, where she saw me hide the treat . . . meaning she relies on her own observation more than she relies on me indicating where the treat might be. Isn’t that just like a herding dog?

I recently paid the membership fee to join Dognition for a year. I admit I initially balked at the idea of paying to play, but I really am enchanted by the idea of citizen science, and the curious part of me couldn’t resist the opportunity to see some of the results. And hey, Lucy and I get to be a part of making cognition history. How could we resist that? Maybe we’ll see you there.

Letters and Corrections – April 2013

0

I am writing to express my concern at seeing the photograph on the cover of the April 2013 Whole Dog Journal that depicts a man running with a dog who is wearing a restrictive harness. As a specialist in canine sports medicine, I have significant concerns about the use of harnesses that wrap around the front of dog’s forelegs, particularly in circumstances like this, where a dog is exercising using a gait that requires forelimb extension.

I have studied the effect of restrictive harnesses using a well-validated gait analysis system and demonstrated that there are significant alterations in a dog’s gait (both the amount of forward extension of the legs and even the amount of weight borne on the front legs) when wearing the harness, even without a leash attached.

I would hope that Whole Dog Journal, which has been a leader in so many areas of dog care, would be a leader in canine sports medicine as well. I hope that you will consider correcting the record by publishing a photograph of a dog with a non-restrictive harness and providing an explanation of why the use of such a harness is important, particularly in dogs who are exercising.

M. Christine Zink, DVM, PhD; Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Pathologists; ACVP, Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation
Baltimore, MD

We will be interested to see research on this topic, as well as learn more about what sort of harnesses don’t present risk of injury to exercising dogs.

Regarding WDJ’s food reviews: Not only do I research quality, I like to price compare.
Kristen Michalski
Via email

Kristen, we do, too. We don’t report on the prices of the food in our reviews for several reasons. The first is that the prices vary so widely from store to store and geographic region to region. The prices I pay here in California tend to be quite high!

Also, cost is relative. If an owner is accustomed to buying Ol’ Roy, for $10 per 30 pounds on sale at Walmart, they may well regard a $30/30-pound bag of food as wickedly expensive – while other owners are ready and willing to pay $70 for the same-sized bag of super high-end stuff. We know that not everyone can afford the best stuff on the shelves. We prefer to let consumers find a food that meets their own criteria for price and availability.

I truly appreciate what you have done to educate me about dog food. I believe I can now make much more informed decisions. I just read the criticism in the Letters column in the March issue. It would wear on me to have yahoos criticizing my well-balanced, objective work. Please know those of us who value your contributions vastly outnumber the sourpusses. We just don’t get motivated to write as often.
Doug Bell
Via email

Thank you! I do really appreciate hearing positive feedback! The only problem is, sometimes the sourpusses (sourpie?) have legitimate criticism or concerns. When they do, I genuinely appreciate that, too, even if it’s not very nice.
 
That said, I often wonder why people who are concerned about whether a company ever had a recall, or who equate corn, wheat, or soy with poison, or who don’t like any companies that are “too big,” would even consider feeding any dry food to their dogs. Even the best dry foods are not the healthiest diet, after all; no processed food can compete with fresh foods.

I have a problem that you push extra-cost publications and don’t put information on such subjects as flea control in the Whole Dog Journal. I may consider letting my subscription lapse.
Robert Anderson
Via email

I’m sorry we haven’t had an article on flea control in WDJ lately;

I think you are correct in observing that a new one is overdue, and we’ll get something rolling. In the meantime, remember that all of our back articles are available for no charge to current subscribers on our website. If you are a current subscriber, all you need to do is register a user name and password on the site. Have a current issue with the address label at hand; you will be asked for your subscriber number.

When Dog Collars Become Deadly

I was pretty traumatized recently by a phenomenon I had heard about many times but had never before seen: the intense, chaotic, life-or-death struggle that ensues when one dog gets his jaw stuck in another dog’s collar.

It happened to some dogs that live a few houses down from my home office. I was working at my computer when I heard a dog screaming. I leaped up from my desk and ran down the sidewalk toward the screaming.

It was two young Lab-mixes in the front yard of a house down the street. One had grabbed his friend’s collar and then mostly likely rolled over, twisting his lower jaw in the collar. His tongue, trapped under the thick nylon, was being lacerated by his own lower teeth; he was the one making all the noise.

His buddy was not screaming; he was fighting for his life, and being choked to death by his own collar. Both dogs were thrashing in pain and fear. The owner of one dog was trying to get close enough to them to free them, and I tried to help.

I grabbed one dog by the scruff; she grabbed the other. I frantically ran my hands through the mass of writhing fur, trying to find a buckle on the collar. I felt a quick-release buckle and released it – but it was the wrong one, not the collar that was threatening their lives.

Then I saw the other buckle; it was in the mouth of the dog whose jaw was trapped. And it was a standard metal buckle – the kind that you have to tighten slightly to free the metal prong from a hole punched in the nylon fabric. It was already so tight, there would be no way to tighten it enough to release it, if I even could get my hand in the dog’s mouth.

Just then, the owner of the other dog ran out of the house with a pair of scissors. I was doubtful that they could cut through the thick nylon, but they did. And in the nick of time! Even as the young woman worked, feverishly, the dog who was choking released his bowels. He was seconds from death.

Imagine what would have happened if that young woman hadn’t had the scissors handy. Or if the same thing happened at a dog park; maybe someone would have had a sharp-enough knife. What if the dog had been wearing a choke chain or pinch collar? I’ve seen dogs wearing these while playing at dog parks – but I’ve never seen a person there with bolt cutters.

These dogs survived the experience. But since I’ve been telling my friends about my experience (with all the fervor of the recently converted), I’ve heard about a number of dogs whose jaws were broken in similar situations – and other dogs who didn’t survive an experience like this. Don’t let it happen to your dog!

Here are five things you can do to keep your dog safe when he’s playing with other dogs.

1. Play Naked! Remove your dog’s collar or harness. A harness may not present the same choking hazard as a collar if another dog got tangled in it, but on the other hand, a harness has many more straps to get caught in.

2. Use a Collar With a Quick-Release Buckle. If you’re nervous about having your dog naked (and without ID), use a collar with a buckle that can be released even under tension. Another option is a safety breakaway collar, such as Premier Pet Product’s KeepSafe Break-Away Collar.

3. Don’t Allow Your Dog to Play With Dogs Who Are Wearing Gear. At times, this may mean your dog won’t be able to play at a dog park, because it’s nearly impossible to get everyone to comply with sensible rules at a dog park. If I had a young dog who really liked wrestling and mouthing other dogs, I just wouldn’t take him to a dog park that was crowded with collar- and harness-wearing dogs. Not after what I saw.

4. Spread The Word. I’m now telling every dog owner I know about the way, the truth, and the light. Many people have never considered this potential hazard and may be open to hearing about how they can prevent a tragedy happening to their dogs.

5. Keep Something Sharp Handy. This is quite a long shot – and yet, I now know a young woman who saved two dogs’ lives with sharp scissors. I now have a box cutter in my car, and another one on a shelf near my office door. I hope to never witness this again, but I feel a little better knowing that there would be more I could do to help.

Doxycycline Shortage leaves People and Pets Scrambling for Treatment Alternatives

Drug of choice for treating tick-borne disease and heartworm is unavailable (or unaffordable) due to supply bottleneck.

When my newest search and rescue partner, Cole, fell apart during a certification test in May 2012, I had accumulated enough hard lessons to know my next move. We didn’t need to revisit our training protocol or take his nose in for a tune-up. We were at our vet’s office the next morning for bloodwork.

I left with a scrip for doxycycline, the drug of choice to treat Lyme disease in both humans and dogs. When I filled it at the Giant Eagle pharmacy, my bill was $0, thanks to the chain’s program of free prescriptions for common generic antibiotics. Many other pharmacy chains offered it for loss-leader prices ranging from $1.99 to $10. At average retail prices, the cost would have topped out at about 30 cents per pill, or $16 for the full course.

Cole was a lucky boy. His infection was detected very early, and he responded so well to treatment that his titer is negative a year later. Cole’s owner was lucky for those reasons, and because the specific drug that best treats Lyme disease, among other tick-borne infections such as ehrlichiosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and anaplasmosis was readily and cheaply available.

Just under a year later, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania dog owner Karen Kirk and her Lab/Husky-mix, Buddy, were less fortunate.

Buddy’s cryptic symptoms appeared suddenly in late March 2013; what first appeared to be a sprained hock developed rapidly over 24 hours into a critical situation, including complete hind-end paralysis and lethargy. Knowing that Buddy had several recent tick exposures, Kirk opted to run a tick-borne disease titer panel before taking radiographs; her hunch was also on target, as Buddy too returned a positive test for Lyme disease infection.

Kirk’s veterinarian prescribed a very high dose of doxycycline because of Buddy’s severe acute symptoms, and provided an initial supply of the drug, warning Kirk that there appeared to be an issue with acquiring the antibiotic, and that she should be ready to seek it at an outside pharmacy to continue the course.

Two weeks later, when Kirk called her local Giant Eagle pharmacy, the pharmacist’s assistant looked up the cost of Buddy’s prescribed dose and told her “This can’t be right. It says $1,000.”

After repeated checking, the pharmacy staff verified that the cost of Buddy’s prescription had skyrocketed to nearly $12 per pill, or $72 per day of treatment – for a staple generic drug that was so cheap 10 months earlier that they had been giving it away.

The news was no better at other Pittsburgh-area pharmacies; most simply could not supply doxycycline at any price. Buddy, who had responded to doxycycline treatment dramatically and was walking within 24 hours of his first dose, finally caught a break. Kirk’s veterinarian was able to scrounge enough of the drug at close to the pre-shortage price to complete a month of treatment. According to Kirk, “Now he’s acting like a badass like he always does, and propelling himself off the back of my couch.”

Veterinarians Scramble to Supply Treatments as Spring Tick Season Commences
According to the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) online index of drug shortages, the supply interruption for doxycycline was first noted in mid-January, and projected to be corrected by early March. As of mid-April, the listing showed only four extant manufacturers, of which two were supplying “limited” quantities and/or forms of the drug, and two were listing the drug as “available.” The reasons for the supply issues were listed, variously, as “manufacturing delays” and “increased demand.” As of April 10, FDA personnel had not returned multiple phone messages requesting an interview, and the FDA had released no further information about the causes and expected duration of the shortage.

While the shortage of this common antibiotic affects human medicine – where doxycycline is used to treat tick-borne diseases, acne, some sexually transmitted infections, and even anthrax – veterinarians are keenly aware of the pinch, as veterinary practices serve as pharmacies as well as physicians for their animal patients.

Dr. Dan Murray, who practices at the Animal Care Center in Green Valley, Arizona, has not yet exhausted his clinic’s supply of oral doxycycline, and continues to dole it out to patients on an as-needed basis. Anticipating that he will not be able to restock, Dr. Murray has ordered minocycline, a related tetracycline-class antibiotic, to replace doxycycline for the tick-borne ehrlichiosis and anaplasmosis that he commonly sees in southern Arizona, as well as for treating kennel cough.

But veterinarian Tom Beckett of the Camino Viejo Animal Clinic in Austin, Texas cautions that, although minocycline is in the same class as doxycycline, it has not yet been shown to be equally effective against the same rickettsial diseases, or as a pre-treatment for dogs who will undergo heartworm treatment. Dr. Beckett is also drawing from a stockpile of doxycycline at this time, and worries “I’m at a loss, like everybody else, about what we’re going to end up doing, how cheap and available the minocycline is going to be.” Dr. Beckett has a special interest in tick-borne diseases, which are enzootic among the former racing greyhounds that he helps to rehabilitate; both efficacy and cost are factors for this population of dogs.

A web search for minocycline prices found a best price of $1.70 per 100 mg tablet – six times higher than a typical price for doxycycline prior to the current shortage.

One reason for doxycycline’s effectiveness against notoriously recalcitrant bacterial infections such as Borrelia burgdorferi (the spirochete bacterium that causes Lyme disease) and the rickettsial bacteria that cause Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, anaplasmosis, and ehrlichiosis, is its high lipid solubility, which allows it to attack pathogens that have set up shop in the central nervous system and in the synovial fluid of the joints. Minocycline has an even higher lipid solubility; human clinical results suggest that it should prove a suitable, if expensive, alternative to doxycycline for treating tick-borne diseases.

Readers who handle shelter dogs or others who are heartworm positive may also need to turn to minocycline or the older drug tetracycline for the 30-day antibiotic treatment prior to administering an adulticide to kill heartworms. The aim of this pre-treatment is to gradually eliminate the symbiotic rickettsial Wolbachia bacteria from the guts of the parasitic worms, preventing a toxic bolus of dead Wolbachia from overwhelming the treated dog’s cardiovascular system.

The Dangers of Hoarding and Stockpiling
Consumers must exercise caution when using stockpiled doxycycline, or any drug of the tetracycline group. All sources agree that antibiotics of this family that are long past their expiration dates are not only ineffective, but can break down into toxic substances that cause severe kidney damage.

Unfortunately, no sources can or will specify how far past the manufacturer’s expiration date is cause for concern, even though there is wide agreement that these dates are broadly, even excessively, conservative, and that “just expired” product is almost certainly safe and effective. Dr. Beckett cautions that variations in storage conditions – antibiotics should be kept cool and dry – are a confounding factor in shelf life. Ensure that you acquire antibiotics of this family only from reliable sources.

Heather Houlahan is the proprietor of First Friend Dog Training and raises pastured livestock and poultry. She has been a search and rescue dog handler for 22 years, and is the canine director of Allegheny Mountain Rescue Group. She lives with three English shepherds, one German shepherd, a revolving cast of foster dogs from National English Shepherd Rescue, and a mostly housetrained husband on Brandywine Farm, north of Pittsburgh, PA. She has had Lyme disease twice.

For more information:
FDA Drug Shortage Index: http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/DrugSafety/DrugShortages/ucm314739.htm

Doxycycline shortage and shelter medicine:
sheltermedicine.com/documents/addressing-the-doxycycline-shortage-feb-2013

Heartworm: critterology.com/articles/wolbachia-and-their-role-heartworm-disease-and-treatment

Minocycline treatment in humans with neurologically involved Lyme disease: http://cid.oxfordjournals.org/content/30/1/237.2.full

An Avoidable Horror

6

I’ve heard of it happening, but have never witnessed it before tonight: the horror of a dog getting his jaw twisted in another dog’s collar. May I never witness it again.

I was working at my computer when I heard a dog down the street, screaming. The only other times I’ve heard a dog scream like that were when one was hit by a car and another was kicked by a horse. I ran out my office door and down the street toward the noise. There is a black Lab-mix who is often playing in a fenced front yard two doors down, and I saw a young woman bent over what I thought was just that one dog. My first thought was that he had somehow broken a leg and she was restraining him. I ran through the gate and saw that she was, in fact, bent over TWO black Lab-mixes. I couldn’t tell at first what I was seeing, just this tangle of screaming dogs. I yelped, “What’s happening?” And the young woman shouted, “They’re stuck, I don’t know how!” It was SO confusing because both dogs were solid black and writhing around.

Then I saw the collar around the lower jaw of one dog. “”It’s the collar!” I yelled. “Do you have anything to cut it?!” My mind was racing but I couldn’t think of a single thing I had in my office that would cut it. The young woman yelled at someone else – her roommate, it turned out. “Get something to cut the collar!!”

I was also feeling all over the collars for a buckle. I felt a quick-release buckle and released it – but it was the release on the collar of the dog who had his jaw stuck.  Just then I smelled poop; the dog whose collar was twisted was collapsing, and had just evacuated his bowels. He was being choked to death right in our hands. 

I finally located the other buckle. It was a plain metal buckle. It was also in the mouth of the dog whose jaw was twisted inside. There was NO WAY I could get it to release.

The woman who was holding the dogs with me was screaming for her roommate. I said, “Let’s try to roll them to untwist it.” We grabbed the dogs’ bodies and tried to figure out which way would release the twist, but we simply could not see the solution in the mass of twisting black fur. One dog was moaning, the other gasping.

The other woman ran out with a pair of sharp scissors and a knife. I doubted the scissors, but it looked safer than a knife. She tried to jam the scissors under the collar and it was incredibly tight. She quailed for a moment, yelping, “I’m afraid to cut him!” And I said, “Just do it! Stitches are better than dying!”  She jabbed the lower blade of the scissors under the collar and worked them with all her might, and by some miracle, the material started to separate.  “Yes! Good! You’re doing it! Keep going!” the two of us holding the dogs encouraged her. We were ALL gasping for air at this point.

Then it was done. The collar fell off and the dogs literally fell apart. The one who was being choked coughed and gasped. The one with his jaw twisted ran away from us across the yard, then ran back with his tail between his legs – scared but ok. We encouraged the other dog – Good boy! You’re ok! – and he got to his feet, wobbling, and wagged his tail weakly, but it was apparent that he was regaining strength moment by moment. I said to the young women, “Are you ok?” “Yes, yes, are you?” We were all ok.

For the next 20 minutes or so, we talked and watched the dogs. In those minutes, both dogs defecated. The choked dog peed, too, and a few minutes later, he vomited. He seemed just really shaken but ok. I ran back to my office and found one of Otto’s older quick release collars to give them. We all hugged each other and the dogs.

Thank God the dog hadn’t been wearing a choke chain; I don’t have bolt cutters hanging around and don’t know anyone else who does either. That dog would have been dead if he had been wearing one.

Please: If your dog has a buckle collar – or one that has to be pulled over the dog’s head to take it off — PLEASE remove it before he or she plays with other dogs. Better yet: Don’t ever put any collar on your dog that doesn’t have a quick-release buckle.