Dogs get hiccups. Who knew, right? It turns out that this is a fairly common occurrence, especially in puppies. But what causes dog hiccups, and are there ever cases in which they actually indicate a medical problem?
Hiccups are defined by Merriam-Webster as a “spasmodic inhalation with closure of the glottis accompanied by a peculiar sound.” They occur when the diaphragm – the membranous divider of the abdomen from the thorax – spasms. The diaphragm receives its nerve supply from the phrenic nerve, which is a large, important nerve originating from the cervical (neck) spinal cord. The phrenic nerve receives information from and transmits information to the diaphragm, assisting in respiration.
If the phrenic nerve is immature (as in puppies) or becomes irritated (as in adults), then hiccups can result.
Does Your Puppy Get Hiccups?
Puppy hiccups are generally not a concern. As with human babies, puppies will hiccup in utero and after birth. This is because the phrenic nerve and diaphragm haven’t finished maturing and are easily stimulated. As puppies age, they should grow out of it. According to the Veterinary Information Network (VIN), most will no longer have these bouts of hiccups after about 4 months of age, although some can persist up to 6 months. If a puppy has hiccups and they are lasting a long time or seem irritating, you can attempt to place the pup on their back and roll them gently side-to-side a couple of times. Sometimes, this will stop the spasm.
Adult Dog Hiccups
Hiccups are much less common in older dogs, as the phrenic nerve and diaphragm are mature and less easily irritated. As with any scenario, a change in a dog’s normal health status should be evaluated by a trusted veterinarian. If your dog suddenly starts to develop frequent bouts of hiccups, a vet visit is in order.
Your veterinarian will gather a thorough history—asking details about when the problem started, how long the bouts last, and if anything seems to trigger it. Afterwards, a physical examination will be conducted. This includes vital signs, a weight, and examination of the major systems—skin, heart and lungs, lymph nodes, the orthopedic system, and the abdominal organs. If no abnormalities are found, your veterinarian may recommend simple observation at home. This might include recording the episode over the course of several days. Several different conditions may mimic hiccups including focal seizures, reverse sneezing, or reflux disease. A recording will help your veterinarian identify what is happening.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ Iryna Kazlova
X-rays of the abdomen and chest might also be recommended. Since hiccups originate from phrenic nerve/diaphragm irritability, anything causing pressure on the diaphragm (from inside the chest or the abdomen) could lead to them. X-rays may help identify a cause.
If they do not, your veterinarian will likely take a wait-and-see approach. Chronic hiccups in humans have been linked to a host of disorders including lesions found in the central nervous system, pericarditis (inflammation of the sac around the heart), cancers of the neck, chest, and abdomen, and electrolyte abnormalities. This doesn’t necessarily correlate to dogs, but it is helpful information to have if further investigation is pursued. Case reports of dogs with chronic hiccups are rare, so it is hard to know if they are medically significant. In most cases, they are likely not.
There is no real treatment for hiccups. Some home remedies include the rolling technique described above and putting a teaspoon of sugar on the back of the tongue. Whether these work or not has not been thoroughly investigated.
As always, when in doubt, check in with your veterinarian for advice!
I have been trying to think of what to write in this week’s blog post all day, and while there are any number of topics running through my head, there are so many different things requiring my attention at the moment, I haven’t been able to think any single topic all the way through! So once again I will just update you about a few things.
Foster Dog Odin
Last Friday, I took Odin back to the UC Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital (VMTH) for the in-depth eye exams he would need to participate in a study on a drug treating corneal endothelial dystrophy. The exams were meant to serve as the baseline for his eye condition before we started treating his troubled left eye with the medicine that the faculty veterinary ophthalmologist will be studying.
The technicians who conducted the tests were completely charmed by the little guy; he’s the youngest dog they are working with for the studies (and I hope, one of the best behaved).
Odin had the following procedures:
Pachymetry
A pachymeter is a medical device used to measure the thickness of the cornea. His right (unaffected) eye has a quite normal thickness. The cornea of his affected left eye is about twice as thick as it should be.
Corneal Confocal Biomicroscopy
This powerful tool produces images of individual corneal epithelial cells. Certain eye diseases cause these cells to malfunction, and the change in their shape and size can indicate some of these conditions. The technicians got beautiful images of the cells in Odin’s right eye, but the tool couldn’t produce good images of these cells in the affected eye; the cornea is just too thick.
This is an imaging tool that captures high-resolution, cross-sectional images of the anterior segment of the eye – and this was the tool that finally enabled a terrific representation of Odin’s troubled cornea.
The OCT revealed some sort of strange bubble in the left eye – a place where the two innermost layers of the cornea (the endothelium and Descemet’s membrane) have separated. Though we’ve been mystified from the very onset of Odin’s eye trouble as to its cause, and a number of things have been proposed, the faculty vet’s current thought is the eye suffered an injury that triggered some overreactions. This veterinarian actually used the same tool to examine Odin’s eye on his very first visit to the VMTH, about a week after the original onset of his eye problem, and this bubble or separation was not seen at that time.
So, the news is sort of mixed. He doesn’t actually have the exact condition the Japanese medicine is being tested for (corneal endothelial dystrophy) – but on the other hand, the vet thinks the medicine might help, and certainly can’t hurt. So he’s not going to be officially enrolled in the study – but, generously, she is going to continue to follow his case, and provide more examinations to see if the medicine (along with the other medications we’re using to treat the eye) make an improvement. In Japan, where the medicine is already approved, it has been found to be able to reduce corneal thickness, haziness, and edema, and promote corneal endothelial cell proliferation. All of those actions may well help Odin’s eye.
And she assured me that she would discuss his case with some human ophthalmologists to see what else they would recommend (besides a corneal transplant, which is certainly what would be recommended if Odin was a well-insured human patient).
Disaster Training for Animal Advocates
On Saturday, I attended a training session conducted by the North Valley Animal Disaster Group (NVADG), as part of my increased interest in improving any future local disaster response. This session was about handling dogs and cats in an emergency – something I got a lot of experience with when volunteering in the emergency evacuation shelters during the Camp Fire disaster. And it was held at the shelter where I have been volunteering for the past decade, so that was fun.
I didn’t learn anything new about handling dogs but did learn a few tips and tricks for handling stressed cats. Mostly, I was very pleasantly surprised by the turnout at the training event; I’d say there were at least 80 people present – all potential new volunteers in case of another disaster. I’m looking forward to a training session scheduled for next month, which is supposed to train volunteers for managing a small animal emergency shelter. It’s that operation that I felt most critical of during the Camp Fire, so I’m eager to see what training is provided, and where suggestions for improvements might best be directed.
Otto’s Turn for Medical Attention
On Monday, it was my senior dog Otto’s turn for more medical tests. Otto has been drinking tons of water, and the first round of tests, blood panels and urine tests came back without telling us a lot more than we already knew. His blood results looked great, and his urine actually looked good, too, except for the fact that it’s consistently more dilute than it ought to be. My veterinarian suggested that the next step in the investigation should be an ultrasound, to check on the size and condition of his kidneys and other organs.
The ultrasound found two abnormalities: a small mass on Otto’s liver, and another small mass situated somewhere near his spleen and pancreas… But his kidneys looked fine. The speculation is that something – perhaps one of the masses? – is causing a hormonal change that is causing the kidneys to not work properly. She recommended a fine needle aspiration (FNA) of the masses, guided by the ultrasound, so we could send them out to be cultured, in hopes of learning more about what they are comprised of. I get those results tomorrow. The next step might be a CT scan, again, in order to learn more about these abnormalities, or, depending on what we learn from the cultures of the tissue sample, surgery.
More Camp Fire Follow-Up
More than a month ago, I saw a Facebook post from a researcher who, using a grant from the National Science Foundation, wanted to interview people who were involved in the animal rescues/sheltering from the Camp Fire disaster, for a project described this way:
“The NSF Pets Project is a research project prompted by evacuations during Hurricanes Harvey and Irma. The two lead investigators are Dr. Sarah DeYoung at the University of Georgia (UGA) and Dr. Ashley Farmer at Illinois State University.
“Our main research aim is to identify social and organizational factors that affect the effectiveness of pet evacuation in disasters. Findings from these data may be used to influence future practices and policies related to animal welfare in disasters.”
I said, sign me up! I’m thrilled that someone is working on a project that could improve practices and policies in future disasters. So on Wednesday, I got to meet with Dr. DeYoung and several UGA students, who came to Chico, California, for several days of interviews. Dr. DeYoung has also studied “decision-making for companion animals during the evacuations caused by disasters” including our California wildfires (both local to me and in other parts of California); Hurricanes Harvey, Irma, and Florence; as well as the lava flows in Hawaii. I look forward to following her research – and, I hope, helping publicize any helpful recommendations for improving emergency animal evacuations.
My Next Moves
Next week I’ll be attending the Global Pet Expo, supposedly the pet industry’s largest annual trade show with more than 3,500 booths. I’ve never been to this particular show, which is held in Orlando, Florida; the next largest show (SuperZoo) has always seemed plenty big. At this show, however, I’m hoping to spend most if not all of my time with representatives of pet food companies – in particular, gathering information about the pet food industry’s response to the reports of a spike in cases of dilated cardiomyopathyin dogs.
On more than one occasion, people have asked me if my dog is autistic. Charlotte, a former street dog, has behavioral special needs, and I’ve lost track of how many people have asked upon meeting her, “Is she ever going to be normal?”
I like to use these moments as chances to open up conversation about neurodiversity in dogs: some experience trauma and anxiety and need behavioral management, and not all dogs process trauma the same way. My dog Charlotte has come a long way. She has psychiatric medications that help her with some of her largest triggers, daily training, and behavioral management that all work to give her an enriching, high-quality life.
Though Charlotte’s behavioral challenges are probably due to her growing up on the streets, these conversations always get me thinking, “can dogs be autistic?” The expert opinion is…maybe.
Does Autism Exist in Dogs?
Dr. Valli Parthasarathy, PhD, DVM, ACVB Resident and co-founder of Synergy Behavior Solutions in Portland, Oregon,explains that at this time autism is not a behavioral condition recognized in dogs. This is in part because there has not yet been enough research into the typical and atypical behavior in dogs for that kind of diagnosis to be given.
Dr. Parthasarathy went on to explain that in the future this may change, and there is a possibility we could see diagnoses of autism in dogs. “As we are learning more about the complexities of canine neurology, behavior and neurodiversity, the more information there is to help dogs. As we learn more, we may be able to start more finely characterizing different behavioral disorders. We may find that autism is a condition in dogs as it is in people.”
Research on Autism in Dogs
Although autism is not at this time something dogs can receive a diagnosis for, there is research being done into autism-like behaviors in dogs.
Dr. Parthasarathy explains, “According to the Mayo Clinic website, children with autism have two key characteristics: difficulty with social interactions and communication, and repetitive behaviors.”
Studies have observed comparable behavior in dogs. “For example, recently Tufts Veterinary Behaviorist Nick Dodman presented a study in which he assessed the behavior of 132 English Bull Terriers and found patterns of repetitive behavior (tail chasing), trancelike behavior, and episodic aggression similar to what can be seen in autistic children,” continues Dr. Parthasarathy.
Getty IMages / Alona Rjabceva
Is Your Dog Autistic?
If you have wondered if your dog might be autistic, you aren’t alone. A variety of behavioral challenges exhibited by dogs may be interpreted by their guardians as a form of autism. Dr. Parthasarathy explains, “When my clients ask me about whether their dogs are autistic, they are often referring to dogs that are not responsive to doing what they ask, and dogs that appear to become overstimulated in new environments, are performing repetitive behaviors or may be aggressive.”
A medical condition is always a possible underlier when dogs experience severe behavioral issues like aggression or obsessive licking. Canine compulsive disorder is another possible explanation for your dog’s challenges. At one time, dogs who exhibited repetitive, compulsive habits were thought to have obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), but experts in the animal behavior community have since identified the condition in dogs to be distinctly separate from that found in people.
Again, autism is not yet a diagnosis that can be given to dogs. Autism-like symptoms such as repetitive behavior or episodic aggression can be very challenging for dog guardians to understand and safely manage in the home, and it may be tempting to put the autism label on a dog if it fits. But Dr. Parthasarathy explains that a detailed history of the dog is essential for professionals to come up with a diagnosis. “Many of my patients who present to me with these signs have underlying generalized anxiety that needs to be addressed,” she says.
Dogs who have anxiety disorders may exhibit symptoms that their owners interpret as autism and diagnose themselves. But in reality, “anxiety in general can affect a dog’s ability to learn, problem-solve, retain and recall information,” describes Dr. Parthasarathy.
What to Do if Your Dog Shows Signs of Autism
If you think that your dog might be autistic, or if your dog is displaying behaviors that seem to be the result of an autism-like condition, it’s a good idea to make an appointment with your primary care veterinarian. Dr. Parthasarathy explains that many conditions related to orthopedic, neurologic, gastrointestinal and dermatological issues can result in dogs being unresponsive to cues, or exhibiting trance-like, excessive sensitivity or repetitive behaviors.
If your veterinarian rules out any physical conditions, they may refer you to a veterinary behavior diplomate or resident for diagnosis and treatment. “Treatment for these behavioral conditions can be complex and may involve the use of behavioral medications as well as a comprehensive management and behavior modification plan,” explains Dr. Parthasarathy.
Getty Images / Hartmut Kosig
There are fewer than 100 behavioral diplomats or residents in the United States, so this isn’t an option available to all dog owners depending on where you live. Many canine behavior experts are able and willing to consult with primary proactive veterinarians to support individual patients, however.
Dr. Parthasarathy also advised it’s a good idea to begin working with a positive reinforcement, reward-based trainer. Find a trainer who has experience working with dogs who have behavioral concerns; a good trainer should be part of the treatment team for any dog who may be exhibiting autism-like behaviors. Correcting or punishing unwanted behaviors in dogs with severe behavioral problems can actually make the problem worse or cause other new problem behaviors to arise.
There aren’t any fast answers for working with dogs who have what might be considered autism-like behaviors. Dr. Parthasarathy cautions that, “dogs with behavioral disorders are not trying to be ‘stubborn’, ‘dominant’, or trying to ‘get away’ with things. People who live with these dogs are generally doing the best that they can. Having compassion for dogs with problem behavior, as well as their people, is an important step towards helping them.”
If you think your dog might be autistic, the most important thing is to love your dog, and commit to finding professional support to meet your dog where they are at this stage in their development. Be gentle with your dog and yourself. Just like we are getting better at accepting neurodiversity in people, I hope that as a society we will grow to understand that not all dogs experience and react to the world in the same ways.
If your dog has been diagnosed with a joint disease such as arthritis, then you’re probably no stranger to the world of joint supplements for dogs. Just visit your local pet store, and you will see that options abound. The choices can be confusing. There are chews, powders, and even diets that claim to improve canine joint disease. But which of these supplements are legitimate, and how can you tell?
The simple answer is that it can be difficult. Most of the supplements available for canine joint disease lack evidence-based medicine to support use. Most supplements are based on anecdotal evidence or studies in vitro (in a laboratory rather than in “real life”). Below is a list of common supplements for dogs with joint pain.
A List of Joint Supplements for Dogs:
Glucosamine chondroitin
Perhaps the most used supplement, GC was popularized because of its application in human medicine. Glucosamine and chondroitin are sourced from sea life (lobsters, crabs, and shrimp). Together, they are theorized to inhibit breakdown of the joint and have mild anti-inflammatory effects. Studies have not shown marked improvement in dogs with joint disease, but these products are safe and without significant side effects. As a result, they are frequently recommended as an adjunctive treatment. Cosequin is a labeled veterinary product with some published data. Keep in mind, it is always important to evaluate who did the study and why.
Fish oil
Fish oil can be tricky! They are an excellent source of fatty acids, which are critical for canine health. Dogs cannot synthesize enough of their own, so fatty acids must be supplemented through diet. Deficiencies can lead to coat, skin, joint, and reproductive problems. Usually, supplementation is accomplished through using an AAFCO- and WSAVA-approved dog food. Recently, the dog food market has been flooded with boutique brands that do not necessarily adhere to these testing and recommendation guidelines. So choosing a diet carefully and with veterinary assistance is imperative.
Fish oil may improve joint health, although as with many of these products, strong evidence is lacking. If you choose to use a fish oil product, consult with your veterinarian first! A reduction or change in food may be required, as some diets are very rich in fatty acids. This can lead to inadvertent weight gain and possible toxicity. Fish oil capsules are also hard to dose in large dogs because of the relatively small amount found in capsules.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ PicturePartners
Green-lipped mussels (Perna canaliculus)
While the name is attention-grabbing, GLMs are not new to the treatment of arthritis. Like their GC cousins, these medications are derived from sea creatures. Most studies have not shown much difference between placebo and GLMs, but there is a veterinary approved product with good oral absorption called Glycoflex. Research papers on this product are available at www.vetriscience.com.
Turmeric (curcumin) and Boswellia serrata
Phytotherapy (“plant medicine”) is as old as humankind. Turmeric is a powerful spice and has recently received a great deal of attention in human medicine. It is considered a strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Studies in veterinary medicine are lacking, but it is safe to use (in a veterinary product) and may prove a useful adjunct. Because it has poor oral bioavailability, look for veterinary specific products such as Dasuquin Advanced, Synovi-G4, and Curcuvet.
In humans, Boswellia serrata (frankincense) has excellent evidence for reduction of pain and improved function in arthritis. Data is lacking in dogs, but Boswellia is frequently included in veterinary products such as Dasuquin.
See more options for plant-based arthritis relief here.
E+/ Memitina
Microlactin
This product is advertised as a “nutritional aid” containing dried milk protein that may help with inflammation. The science behind this is hard to understand and honestly, it’s a bit hazy. Though there are several products that fall into this category, there is no available, unbiased scientific evidence to support its use. The published data has been financed by the companies producing the product.
Cannabinoids/CBD
Research into the use of cannabinoids for pain control in humans are ongoing. Research in veterinary medicine is lacking due to federal regulations regarding the uses of cannabinoids. This is changing. At this time, there are no dosing recommendations and CBD oil and other products cannot be recommended.
Important Considerations When Choosing Joint Supplements for Dogs
https://www.quality-supplements.org/
If using a human grade product, look for the logo of the United States Pharmacopeia Dietary Supplement Verification Program. This company tests “human dietary supplements for ingredients, concentrations, dissolvability, and contaminants” per the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine website. Another excellent resource is ConsumerLab.com which tests BOTH human and pet supplements for ingredients.
When in doubt, before purchasing a product, check with your veterinarian. Supplements can be quite pricey, but often the profit is spent on flashy advertising rather than on rigorous quality control and efficacy testing. Your veterinarian can consult with a nutritionist regarding supplements and help you choose one that is right (and useful!) for your dog.
One thing I don’t do very much of is walking my dogs on leash. I am super lucky; I live in an area with any number of safe, interesting places to walk my dogs off-leash – and there is almost no one else around! In the past few weeks, I have gone out for a dog walk with two different friends for a total of five walks, and we saw one other person on the trails once – and it was another friend of mine! With one of my former foster dogs!
However, I actually credit all this time OFF-leash with my dogs’ good ON-leash behavior. I’ll explain how in a moment.
I have been thinking about this a lot lately, for two reasons.
I’ve been teaching my foster puppy, Odin, to walk nicely on leash. Usually, when I raise foster pups, I keep them just long enough to be healthy enough to return to the shelter for spay/neuter surgery and to be adopted; I rarely have a foster pup past the age of three months. Odin is over five months old now, more than ready to be learning “big dog” life skills, and since he’s still here, we’re working on those skills now. Also, if and when I find the perfect family to adopt him, at this point, I want to make sure he’s got a great training foundation and will fit in anyone’s home seamlessly.
But I have also been helping a friend at her training center lately, taking on some puppy kindergarten teaching duties. And of course, THE number one thing the students in puppy classes struggle with is walking their puppies on leash without pulling.
We teach them to be conscious about when the leash is tight or loose, and to “stand like a tree” when the puppies pull, with “no bungee cord arms,” making sure the pups cannot pull to their humans in order to reach things they want. We teach them to notice and reinforce their pups for staying close to them and NOT pulling, so the pups learn that if they want to get places and reach things, they need to stay close to their humans – THEN they can go farther and faster. These tactics work – I know they do; I am seeing it with Odin – if they are applied consistently and frequently.
But if I had to share my absolute number one tip for teaching a dog to walk on leash? I’d have to say it’s the reward of getting to walk with me OFF-leash, in a space where they can run and get their zoomies out. I carry great treats (and in Woody’s case, an even higher-value reinforce, his Planet Dog Squeak ball), and reward them generously with treats and play, praise, and petting when they check in, respond to my cues of “WAIT,” “OFF,” “SIT,” and “HERE!”
As long as they are responsive to my cues, they get to stay off leash. If they aren’t so responsive, the leash goes on and we work on the same stuff. They get treats and praise and the opportunity to play with a toy, but the BIG prize for perfect, sharp responses is getting the leash unclipped, so they can run off-leash some more. It seems to work!
If your dog has great leash manners, share what worked for you. Do you have a “secret weapon” for teaching your dog to behave well on leash? What made the breakthrough in training? Or is walking nicely on leash still a struggle for you and your dog?
The whole world is aware that we love to buy stuff for our pets; more than $70 billion was spent by U.S. owners on their pets last year. But we have to say that a lot of that spending was a waste! There are tons of cutesy, low-quality products out there that fail to deliver any real benefit to either dogs or their handlers. That’s where we can help, with five pages of top-quality stuff that you and your dog will truly enjoy.
Benni (seen in the snow below) is my first small-sized dog in decades. I like to do the same activities with him that I did with my big dogs. But I discovered it can be hard to find quality products for active little dogs. Most small-dog items lean toward cute and not necessarily useful. This is especially true for leashes.
Because we walk in the woods year-round, we need a long leash that can withstand being dragged through creeks, mud, and snow. Nylon isn’t the best choice for these types of adventures, and while leather is tough, it can get dirty and stiff and is hard to dry.
Enter Bold Lead Designs’ Brahma XS leash. It’s made of a man-made, leather-like material that wipes clean and dries immediately. It’s super flexible and soft enough to comfortably handle with bare hands. This is an important feature when you’re handling a long line. Nothing stings like a nylon leash sliding through your hands! The Brahma also has sturdy hardware (your choice of stainless steel or solid brass) – not the cheap stuff that falls apart in cold temperatures – secured with rivets.
But the main reason this brand is my favorite is because all of this comes in a regular (1/2-inch), wide (3/4-inch), and a small-dog package: 3/8-inches wide and with a smaller-sized fastener. I haven’t been able to find anything else this sturdy in such a nice small size.
Bold Lead Designs offers the Brahma Lead in nine standard lengths (from four to 50 feet) and with four different types of “end”: a regular loop handle, no handle (straight end), a handle loop with a loose ring, and a fixed O-ring. I have two of these leashes – a 12-ft and a 30-ft length. They’re easy to coil up and won’t kink.
I’ll admit they are pricey, but after more than a year of daily use, they still look and feel brand new. I’ll never go back to nylon for long lines! – Nancy Tucker
These are not new. But I simply can’t be without them, whether I’m training my own dogs, meeting and assessing shelter dogs as a volunteer, or feeding a sick foster dog or puppy back to health. And I’ve yet to meet a dog who will turn up his nose at this puffed-up, crumbly treat.
Meal Mixers are grape-sized nuggets of raw, freeze-dried muscle and organ meat, raw ground bone, and organic vegetables. They can be fed as a complete and balanced diet (suitable for dogs of all life stages), a highly palatable food “topper,” or a motivating and rewarding treat. I rehydrate and feed them as my secret remedy for transforming sick, inappetent dogs into healthy, hungry, happy ones. – Nancy Kerns
I hate to make my review of this harness all about the handle, because overall, it’s designed beautifully, padded for the dog’s comfort, easy to adjust for a perfect fit, and durable. It has a nice, big ring for attaching a leash at the back of the harness and reflective strips that help your dog be seen at night. My dogs have worn this model daily for a few years and despite this hard use, and though they have been washed in a washing machine several times, they are still in great shape. A similar-looking harness made by a competitor fell apart under less than half the duress.
But it can’t be denied that the handle has been enormously useful to me. It helped when my older dogs started having mobility issues and needed occasional help upon rising, on stairs, and getting in and out of the car. It helped the Border Collie with a bum leg who I adopted, and it helped even more after my veterinarian amputated the problem leg and the exuberant young fetch addict was finding his way as a new “tripod” dog. And it’s currently helpful when my young canine athletes lose their footing on a steep hillside or otherwise need a hand – which may be a uniquely mountain dog problem!
But it’s not just me: A friend uses the same harness to quickly lift her reactive small dog off the ground and whisk him to safety when they are unexpectedly accosted by an off-leash dog and the feisty terrier-mix takes extraordinary offense. It’s quite literally a life-saver! – Kathryn Socie-Dunning
It sounds a little strange, but the best mats I’ve ever found for padding my dogs’ crates come from a company named and known for their pet deodorizing products. I’m not sure how they got into the pet bed business, but I’m glad they did. This is the only bed I will use in a crate, because they are both super comfortable for my dogs and virtually indestructible.
Now it’s true: I have small dogs. But my Papillons go to town scratching on them at times – like, full-force try-to-dig-to-China scratching – and the pads never show a mark. And my sister is still using the one she purchased for her Labrador almost a decade ago.
The mat’s closed cell memory-foam insert is protected by a tough Cordura cover. The covers can be washed, and take washing and drying in the dryer well, though it always seems like they’ve shrunk when it is time to re-insert the foam core – but they haven’t! It’s just that the cover fits the foam tightly. I roll the foam up a little (in a U-shape), push that into the cover, then flatten it out and zip it up.
Alden Odor makes the pads in standard crate dimensions so they fit just as tightly in crates as in their own covers, so that it’s difficult for a dog to pull up the mat and chew on it. The mats come in nine sizes, from Petite (12″ x 17″) to Giant (28″ x 48″).
I just can’t say enough about the quality of the memory foam insert; it’s very supportive. Sometimes my tired little agility dog asks to go in his crate, so he can lie down on that mat. I’d even pay more for such a great product, though I’m happy that I don’t have to! – Cynthia Foley
When my Norwich Terrier Ella was nearing her 13th birthday, she started slowing down. She could sometimes do our regular two-mile walk at a trot, but other times she would slow to a walk partway through. I wanted to get a stroller so that when she got tired, I could put her in the stroller and my younger dog and I could continue walking at a good pace. The problem was that every stroller I looked at was made in China and the reviews indicated that they would start falling apart within six months. Most also had hard, plastic wheels that created an uncomfortable ride.
Then I discovered the Dogger from Dog Quality, a Canadian company that makes their own strollers. I wanted this stroller so badly that I waited an extra month while they were out of stock.
When it arrived, I couldn’t believe the quality. The large (12″) air-filled tires and shock absorbers create a smooth ride, even when I take the stroller onto trails. It rolls easily – I can push it with one finger when there’s no dog inside – and maneuvers exceptionally well. It comes with just about everything you need, including a storage basket underneath, rain cover, and a canopy that can be adjusted in multiple ways (parts can even be removed if desired). The only extras I purchased were a drink holder with multiple compartments that I also use for storing leashes and poop bags, and an orthopedic pad for an additional $10.
At $270 (including shipping), this stroller costs about $100 more than the cheap Chinese versions but will last forever. If a part does wear out or get damaged, you can buy just the replacement part instead of having to get a new stroller. The company offers a 15 percent discount to you and anyone you refer who also purchases one.
One day a woman who was driving by pulled over to tell me that she had used the same stroller for seven years and it still looked just like new; the only thing she had replaced were wheels, which they make exceptionally easy to do. I’ve had mine for a year and a half now, and the only maintenance I’ve had to do is put air in the tires (easily done with a bicycle pump).
Ella enjoys her stroller, which can hold up to 60 pounds and is large enough for two or more small dogs. The Dogger also folds down easily for transport in a car. – Mary Straus
When we put out a call to our friends and contributors, asking them for “gear of the year” product recommendations, the one that made me want to order the minute I saw a product photo was the Martingale All-in-One, which was enthusiastically put forward by Aditi Joshi, a street dog advocate from Mumbai, India (and who was featured in Whole Dog Journal‘s August 2018 issue).
Aditi looks out for the health and well being of about 70 dogs in her neighborhood, taking them into her home when they need minor nursing care for injuries or parasites, and taking them to veterinary clinics when they need more advanced care. Her tool of choice when she needs to quickly collar and lead a street dog into a taxi or into her home? The Martingale All-in-One collar/leash combination. She received one as a gift from a friend in the U.S., and uses it daily.
What’s so great about it? Well, first, it’s a “limited slip” or martingale collar. This means that the collar fits loosely, unless a dog tries to slip out of the collar or pull away. Then it tightens, but only as much as needed to prevent it from slipping off the dog; it can’t tighten enough to choke the dog like regular, full slip leads can if the dog panics and fights the restraint.
Most other limited-slip collars, however, are put on the dog by sliding the loop of the collar over the dog’s head. This one has a plastic buckle, which means a handler can slide it over the dog’s head or, with dogs who are frightened or wary of being “lassoed” by a loop, the handler can tactfully pet the dog with the unfastened collar and buckle it when she is able.
I often use leather slip leads as a volunteer at my local shelter, because few of the shelter wards wear collars and slipping a loop over their heads is fast and simple. If any of them panic and dig in their heels, we have to stop and jury-rig a knot so that the leash doesn’t tighten so much that they are even more frightened by being choked, but one that is not so tight that they can slip out of the collar and get loose.
In contrast, this collar/leash combination, with its nice, wide, padded collar; the limited slip feature; the handy six-foot leash length; and soft-yet-strong, hand-woven material, is going to be just the dog-walking tool I have wanted for years. Aditi says so! – N.K.
Although an increasing number of dog lovers are familiar with the concept of snuffle mats, these fantastic dog accessories are still not nearly as widely known and used as they deserve to be. If you’ve never tried one, you and your dog are in for a treat – literally.
The basic concept of the Snuffle Mat is simple. Take a durable surface that has lots of nooks and crannies, load it with treats (or use it to feed him his regular meals), and let your dog ferret out all the goodies. It’s fun, it invites him to use his nose (which most dogs love!), it keeps him busy, and uses up excess canine energy (scent work is surprisingly tiring).
It’s also a perfect solution for the dog who inhales his food – he has to slow down his intake as he searches for food bits. In addition, Snuffle Mats are easily portable, so you can take them with you when you and your canine pal are visiting friends and family, hanging out at your kids’ softball games, or when you need to keep your vocal, high-energy dog quietly and happily occupied during down times at training class.
There are numerous snuffle mat options, from simple make-it-yourself varieties to our favorite, the Paw5 Wooly Snuffle Mat. The Wooly is durable and washable, and its unique rounded fingers facilitate easy treat stashing. [Editor’s note: My pit-mix Woody has been eating from the same one for three years, and it’s gotten a tad less “wooly,” but still does the trick. I machine-wash and -dry it about every three to four weeks.]
A Google search turns up several other brands, including at least one that has other treat hiding/finding options in addition to the snuffle stuff. Check them out and give one a try. – Pat Miller
My old dog Ella does a lot of peeing these days (she was diagnosed with early-stage kidney disease) and has accidents in the house if I’m not diligent about taking her out consistently. I ended up buying a doggie diaper for her, but I’ve only had it on her a couple of times, as I can keep the accidents under control if I make sure to take her out a lot. But what about when I have to be out of the house for longer than Ella can hold it?
A friend recommended the PeeKeeper – which is billed as the “only escape-proof dog diaper” – as the only diaper that stays on well. It has a unisex design, so it would work well to control urine-marking from males as well as incontinence.
The PeeKeeper is highly adjustable and fits well. It is easy to take on and off once you get the hang of it. Ella doesn’t seem to mind wearing it. You add the feminine or incontinence pad of your choice to absorb the urine, which gives you a lot of choices as to size, thickness, and absorbency.
The product is currently made only in sizes that would fit small to medium-sized dogs (no more than 40 pounds). It is made with 100 percent cotton, and can be machine washed and dried.
The company does not take phone orders but is responsive via email. – M.S.
You know how you’re supposed to keep the “high value” treats on hand for serious training? I like to have cooked chicken or turkey available, but sometimes it’s impossible because there’s nothing cooked or I ran out or they’re still frozen. And it’s always a problem for me to have real meat in my pockets (yuck).
Then someone told me about Nudges Homestyle Treats, in the Chicken Pot Pie flavor. My dogs go nuts as soon as they smell these treats. They come shaped like a pot pie but are easy to break apart so you can feed appropriately small pieces. Better yet, I can then shove the rest of the “pie” in my pocket with minimal crumbs.
I first thought the price was a bit much, but then I learned how long these treats last. They are sold in Target and Walmart stores, but unlike most of the treats in those outlets, Nudges have a reasonably healthy ingredients list, and no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
Everyone I have recommended them to has loved them (and their dogs, too!). When I pulled one out at class, one of my agility friends said, “Wow! You brought the good stuff!” – C. F.
When I hit a patch of black ice on the highway and went spinning and crashing into the median (a few times), my dogs were loose in the car and obviously terrified. None of us were injured, thankfully, but it scared me enough to look into crates that are durable enough to stay intact and protect my dogs if I was ever involved in another wreck.
That’s when I discovered the Ruff Tough kennels. They are designed to take a serious beating and not skewer the canines inside them. They fit well in my car and are easy to load in and take out, if one wants to use them more than just in the car.
They are made of heavy-duty, high-density polyethylene and crafted with one-piece, molded construction, eliminating weak points and debris-collecting seams. They can be stacked without squishing the crate below, and there are built-in metal inserts that let you secure the kennels together; coupler kits are also sold separately that can join two kennels side-by-side.
They are sold with a one-year manufacturer’s warranty and come in six sizes, from small (16″ x 22″) to extra large (22″ x 40″). Ruffland does not sell the kennels directly, but their website lists local and online retailers.
It may sound odd, but crates made life with multiple dogs heaven. I can’t believe I never used them before, thinking a dog would hate me for putting them in one! In fact, my dogs will often go hang out in their crates by choice, which makes me enormously happy. It’s a space all their own and I somehow never grasped how important that is for most mammals, myself included – sometimes you just need a break.
Thanks to the crates, I can open up the car when it’s warm and they have a safe place to be. I can pull the crates out and set them up in the shade, so I can work one dog while the others are lounging comfortably. I can separate dogs while they chew raw bones quietly and never have to worry over sharp-toothed shenanigans arising. There’s more too, but I’ll stop there! – K.S.D.
I asked trainer and WDJ’s Training Editor Pat Miller to write about the risks and responsibilities of off-leash dog walks in this issue. That’s because I’m a huge fan of hiking with my dogs off-leash, but I recognize that the activity is a huge challenge for many dog owners.
I hike with my dogs off-leash a couple times a week. I am supremely lucky to live nearby a “wildlife area” where it’s legal for dogs to be off-leash for much of the year (not during the bird nesting season, however). It has wide-open views, offers several areas where dogs can drink and swim in safe, clean water, and best of all, I hardly ever see anyone else out there!
But it’s not without hazards. The area is home to lots of rattlesnakes, and we see them frequently in the late summer and early fall. There is a shooting range nearby, and hunting is allowed in various seasons; some dogs (not mine) are frightened by the sound of gunfire and may spook. There are always birds on the various bodies of water we walk around; dogs who chase waterfowl might take off and never be seen again! And the boundary fenceline we sometimes walk along is just barbed wire and cattle graze on the other side; a nave town-dog who decides to crawl under the fence in hopes of a fun chase risks getting stomped by the range-smart mama cows, who defend their calves from coyotes year after year.
To me, the benefits of off-leash walks in this area are worth the risks – but I also work hard to make sure my dogs have razor-sharp recalls, that they respond to “OFF!” by halting or turning away from whatever has piqued their interest, and that they will sit down immediately on cue and stay put until I release them with another cue. We practice each of these behaviors every single time we walk out there, and I bring high-value treats (and Woody’s favorite squeak ball) to reward them richly for their cooperation.
It’s not for everyone. I have friends who are put off by the snakes, others whose dogs are so overstimulated by the water birds that they cannot be let off-leash, and one whose dog comes unglued when she hears gunfire. That’s all fine with me; my dogs and I are fine with being alone in our (practically private) park.
CORRECTION
I inadvertently left Solid Gold off the list of our approved dry dog foods in last month’s issue. It was an oversight and absolutely no reflection on any lapse on the part of the company. We have added their company and product information to the online version of the February issue and will include this information in the April issue, along with some other notes and discussion about the dry food review.
It seems that it’s rare for a week to go by that we don’t hear about – or even experience – yet another pet illness or reaction to animal food, drugs, vaccines, or pesticides. At times, Whole Dog Journal’s articles and blog posts will include the advice to “report any adverse events.” And it’s excellent advice – so here’s when, how, and why you should report these events.
Adverse Events Defined
Animal drugs, vaccines, and pesticides are subjected to tests to establish their safety and efficacy. However, this evaluation process is typically conducted on a relatively small number of animals prior to being approved and marketed. As a result, there is potential for previously unobserved problems to emerge after the product is approved, goes on the market, and is administered to a larger population of animals.
An adverse event (AE) in animals is any unfavorable or unintended occurrence that happens during or after use of an animal drug or veterinary product or device. Suspected lack of efficacy and reactions by humans exposed to the product or treated animals also qualify as adverse events.
Adverse Events or Side Effects?
It is important to clarify the difference between adverse events and side effects. Side effects are secondary undesired effects that may occur when using a specific drug and have been shown to be associated with the product by scientific studies. Side effects are tracked and investigated extensively during clinical trials before entering the market. In contrast, adverse events are not consistent with applicable product information or characteristics of the drug.
It is important to consult with your veterinarian about potential side effects associated with a product prior to use. For example, a lump forming at the site of a vaccination is a known side effect; it is not an adverse event. If your dog does experience a serious issue after a vaccine, the administration of a drug or pesticide treatment, or eating pet food or treats, contact your veterinarian or veterinary emergency clinic immediately.
Reporting side effects is still a good idea, however. Even though side effects may be known, reporting these can be an effective means of heightening awareness of a particular issue with the product and could possibly lead to additional product review, especially if the side effects are serious.
When Should You File a Report?
One of the responsibilities of the U.S. federal government is ensuring the safe and healthful use of products within the United States. If your pet experiences a serious side effect or an adverse event, a report should be filed with the appropriate governing agency.
If you’re uncertain about whether you should file a report or the process, ask your veterinarian for guidance. Often veterinarians themselves will handle it; if this occurs, there is no need for you to report the incident. If your veterinarian has not reported the AE or was not involved, you should make the report yourself. In either case, it is important to report it as soon as possible, as timely reporting enables agencies to take any necessary action quickly.
There are several government agencies that oversee the reporting of veterinary adverse events and the process varies with each department. Regardless of the government agency involved, the manufacturer of the product should also be notified of the adverse event.
Animal Drugs
All veterinary drugs (and devices) are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. New veterinary drugs must first be approved for use by the CVM. The CVM evaluates the product and establishes the safety, effectiveness, and conditions of use; this information is required to be on the product labeling. After approval, the CVM will continue to monitor the use of these products to ensure that they remain safe and effective; this monitoring activity is referred to pharmacovigilance.
Thousands of drugs are administered to pets every day. There are often side effects, but hopefully those are known, minor, and temporary. When a pet has an unexpected reaction to a veterinary drug, it is important to file an Adverse Drug Event (ADE) report. This report can be filed directly with the FDA by pet owners.
There you will find the link to download the PDF Form FDA 1932a, “Adverse Experience, Lack of Effectiveness or Product Defect Report.” This form is used to report adverse drug experiences for any animal drug (whether the drug is FDA-approved or not).
The CVM requests that the report be as detailed as possible and include everything from the brand of food and treats your pet eats, to any supplements your pet is given, along with your pet’s medical history (including names and amounts of all drugs, information about any recent surgeries or procedures, veterinary test results and examination findings), as well as any other relevant information. The more details you provide, the more information the CVM has available to research the issue. Upon completion, email the form to CVM1932a@fda.hhs.gov.
Both the CVM and the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) recommend also reporting any adverse drug events directly to the manufacturer. Manufacturers are required to report any adverse drug experiences to the FDA. The drug manufacturer’s information is usually on the product packaging, including prescription bottles received from the pharmacy. You may also report the event directly to the CVM.
Pet Food and Treats
Adverse events related to pet food and treats also fall under the CVM’s jurisdiction. The responsibilities of the CVM include ensuring that pet food “is safe, made under sanitary conditions, and properly labeled” as well verifying that a “food additive for use in food for animals is safe and effective before approving it.” Reports regarding pet food and treats can be filed electronically using the CVM’s Safety Reporting Portal.
Problems such as mold or foreign objects in food should also be reported as they can pose a health and safety issue for other pets.
The other option for reporting issues with pet food and treats is to call your state’s FDA Consumer Complaint Coordinator. You can use this link to find your representative.
Vaccines for pets are regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture via the Center for Veterinary Biologics (CVB). The CVB is involved with the regulation of products that diagnose, prevent, or treat animal diseases as well as ensuring that veterinary biologics, such as vaccines, are safe and effective. Detailed information about reporting vaccine-related AEs can be found here.
The preferred method for reporting an adverse event associated with a vaccine is through the CVB’s online reporting system.
Reports may also be submitted by telephone by calling the CVB at (800) 752-6255, or by downloading the Adverse Report Form and faxing it to (515) 337-6120, or sending via mail to Center for Veterinary Biologics, 1920 Dayton Avenue, PO Box 844, Ames, Iowa 50010.
Again, it is recommended that vaccine-related adverse events also be submitted directly to the vaccine manufacturer. In addition to simply taking the report, many of these manufacturers have in-house veterinary services departments that not only receive such reports but also may be able to provide diagnostic advice, treatment recommendations, and guidance on product use.
Pesticides
There are a number of pest-control products used in association with our pets, especially for eradication of ectoparasites and insects. The FDA regulates the flea and tick products that are given orally (making them qualify as a medication), including Bravecto, Nexgard, Simparica, and Credelio.
If a product is regulated by the FDA, it may be labeled with the statement “Approved by the FDA” followed by a six-digit New Animal Drug Application (NADA) number or, for generic drugs, an Abbreviated New Animal Drug Application (ANADA) number on the packaging or label. If the product’s registration number does not appear on the label, it may take some research to find the number; it’s not required to be present on the label.
Adverse events associated with oral medications that kill internal or external parasites may be reported by the same process as animal drugs (see above), using form FDA 1932a, “Adverse Experience, Lack of Effectiveness or Product Defect Report.”
Topical products, however, are regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), under the Federal Insecticide Fungicide and Rodenticide Act. These can be identified by the EPA Registration Number (sometimes written as EPA Reg. No.) printed on the label.
Look for an EPA registration number on the package, usually near the manufacturer’s information. Adverse events associated with these products, as well as other pesticides, are reported to the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC).
However, the NPIC electronic reporting system is restricted for use by qualified professionals, such as veterinarians or their staff. Pet owners can still report an adverse effect by a pesticide on their pet by calling the NPIC directly at (800) 858-7378 and filing a report over the phone.
What Happens with the Reports?
The governing agencies all have differing approaches to handling Adverse Event Reports, but in general, these reports are reviewed and evaluated for risks to animal (and/or public) health.
Every report is important; if the AE is assessed to be of concern, the initial review leads to follow-up activity. Products that have caused or may cause a serious illness, injury, or a life-threatening situation are given priority. While monitoring continues indefinitely, the FDA pays particularly close attention to adverse event reports submitted in the first three years following approval of a product.
The CVM has created a database – the Cumulative Adverse Drug Event Summaries Report – “so that veterinarians and animal owners can have easily available access to information about signs that have been associated with drugs.”
The database lists the numbers of ADEs received for a particular drug, by species, and route of administration. Sounds great! But at present, the database contains only the cumulative summaries of the data received on paper reports for the period between 1987 and April 30, 2013. ADEs have been submitted electronically since then, but the task of collating the paper reports with the electronically submitted reports is not yet complete.
The plan is to eventually have the database brought current and updated monthly – but we aren’t holding our breath. A note on the webpage above says, “We anticipate having updated adverse event information available in late 2017 or early 2018.”
Why Report Adverse Events?
In March 2017, the CVM distributed a “Dear Doctor” letter to veterinarian professionals in response to their findings from the examination of three reported cases of hyperthyroidism in dogs of varying ages and in separate households that were fed canned dog food from at least one of two companies (FDA Dear Doctor letter, “Exogenous Hyperthyroidism and Thyroid in Pet Food,” March 27, 2017).
The CVM’s research into these three cases found that it warranted widespread notification and the resulting letter detailed their research, findings, and actions. It was determined that the pet food contained exogenous sources of thyroid hormone, capable of causing clinical signs. The manufacturer recalled the implicated lots of the two foods that had been fed to the affected dogs. (The health of the dogs improved after eating different food.)
By reporting AEs and other problems experienced with animal products, pet owners, veterinary professionals, and manufacturers play a valuable role in maintaining health and safety. Reports act as an alert system, not only for the governing agency, but also for pet owners and veterinary professionals. The government, manufacturers, and veterinarians receive critical information to determine if further investigation is warranted.
When it happens to our pets, naturally we feel it is warranted. As evident in the example above, the reporting of just three cases resulted in an investigation and recall, demonstrating that reporting is effective and can contribute to our pets’ health and welfare.
Investigations triggered by AEs can lead to changes in a product’s labeling or use, the release of safety warnings and communications, product recalls, and even the rescinding of agency approval or permanent withdrawal of a product from the market. Again, reporting adverse events can be invaluable.
The reporting systems do have some deficiencies. Being “passive surveillance systems,” there is no active search for cases but rather the reliance on obtaining initial data from the reports submitted. This type of system can suffer from under-reporting (reports aren’t submitted) or over-reporting (reports submitted are not related to the suspected product). Furthermore, receipt of a report does not necessarily mean that the product caused an adverse event, or even that a particular event actually occurred.
If your pet experiences an adverse event, seek veterinary treatment. If you suspect it is due to a drug, food or treats, vaccine, or pesticide, you may want to consider obtaining special diagnostics, such as having a pet food tested by a private laboratory. Be aware, however, that these expenses will not be covered by the regulating agency, but may assist in the treatment of your pet and add valuable data to your report.
Barbara Dobbins, a former dog trainer, writes about dogs and studies canine ethology. She lives in the San Francisco Bay area with her dogs, Tico and Parker.
Like many dog training schools, at my school, AutumnGold Dog Training Center, we include an orientation night each session. Owners attend that session without their dogs to learn about our training philosophy and methods. Because it is not unusual for young dogs to react with a bit of anxiety on the first night of class, we teach students how to reduce their dogs’ stress and provide methods for helping dogs to feel secure and safe during class.
Recently, one of my students asked, “Should I comfort my dog when we arrive at class? I have been told that I should not pet or speak softly to my dog if he is upset or anxious because that will reward his fear. Is this true?”
I typically answer this question with a parable about clowns.
I am petrified of clowns, like most rational adult humans (right?!). Everything about them is creepy to me – their red bulbous noses, crazy orange hair, ridiculous cartoon-sized shoes – all of it!
So, let’s imagine that my front doorbell rings and outside is the guy pictured above, grinning and giving me two big thumbs-up. Responding to my shrieks, my husband Mike comes running and attempts to calm me. (In reality, Mike would be bolting out of the back door with the dogs, yelling “Save Yourself”!)
For the sake of my anecdote, let’s say he’s hanging tough and comforting me.
Would Mike’s comfort cause my clown fear to increase? Of course not! Nothing can make me more fearful of clowns! Instead, it’s reasonable to assume that having someone talk to me calmly, explaining to me that clowns are not dangerous (yeah, right!) will reduce my anxiety.
Can We Reinforce Fear?
There is absolutely no evidence, not one bit, suggesting that providing comfort and security to a distressed dog causes the dog’s anxiety or fear to increase. Why then, does this myth persist among dog owners and even with some trainers? Why are owners still advised to ignore their dog when he is distressed or anxious or fearful, as if providing any attention to the dog will reinforce those emotions? I suspect that it has to do with confusion about the difference between an emotional response (which is under very little conscious control) and a learned (operant) response (which is under varying degrees of conscious control).
Lessons from Learning Theory
A learning theory clears up this confusion for us. Stress, anxiety, and fear are emotional responses. We do not choose to be anxious or fearful; we actually have very little control over these responses.
Conversely, any behaviors that someone uses to successfully escape or avoid fear-inducing situations are operant; we have some control over these. If these behaviors are successful – in that they lead to a reduction in anxiety and fear – they will indeed be reinforced. This is called avoidance learning and happens when fleeing a fear-producing experience results in a reduction of fear.
For example, if I ran away from the clown at my door, I would experience relief from my fear. (Assuming, of course, that the clown was not chasing me, as I am certain they do.) Because the strategy of running away was successful in reducing my fear and keeping me safe, I would, in all likelihood, repeat this tactic if I once again found a clown at the door. In this example, we say that “the behavior of running away from clowns has been negatively reinforced.”
Dogs, of course, also learn this way. For example, a dog who is nervous around unfamiliar people may hide behind the couch whenever someone new enters her home. The behavior of hiding is negatively reinforced each time that the dog uses it as a strategy, because hiding allows the dog to avoid exposure to new people and results in an abatement of her fear. Unfortunately, this becomes a double-edged sword – if the dog preemptively hides each time that she hears someone at the door, she never has the opportunity to learn that visitors are not actually harmful (more about this later).
Avoidance learning is not the same as “reinforcing fear.” It’s important to remember that anxiety and stress and fear are basic emotional responses that are involuntary and have important biological functions. Our dogs do not choose to be anxious or fearful. These are reactions to situations that a dog perceives to be unfamiliar or threatening. It is false to state that a dog chooses or willingly decides to experience fear. However, this is exactly what is implied when owners are advised to ignore their dog when he is anxious or fearful due to the erroneous belief that comforting will reinforce the dog’s fear. It just ain’t so.
Providing Comfort
Should we comfort our dogs when they are nervous? Okay, if we accept that providing comfort and care to a distressed dog does not reinforce fear, do we know whether or not providing comfort in the form of petting and speaking softly to our dogs helps to reduce their anxiety? Although it certainly feels like it should, do we have evidence that supports or refutes this?
Recently, another study conducted by Chiara Mariti’s research team at the University of Pisa in Italy, examined the effects of gentle petting upon a dog’s stress level during a subsequent period of separation. Here is what they found:
The Italian Study on Effects of Petting Stressed Dogs
The study included a group of 10 dogs and their owners. Each dog was tested in two conditions while visiting a training center that was unfamiliar to the dog and owner. In the “petting” condition, the owner gently petted their dog for a period of one minute, while talking to a friendly stranger. In the “no petting” scenario, the owner talked to the stranger without petting their dog.
In both settings, the dog’s leash was then handed to the stranger and the owner left the area and remained out of sight for three minutes. The researchers video recorded each test and measured the dogs’ heart rates, salivary cortisol levels, and behaviors before, during, and after separation.
Study Results
Although the differences between the two groups were not dramatic, the researchers did report a few interesting findings:
Heart rate: When dogs were not petted by the owners prior to separation, their heart rates did not change. Conversely, when they were petted prior to separation, heart rates decreased (difference approached statistical significance; P = 0.07). This result suggests that petting either prevented or reduced the stress response associated with separation of the dog from the owner.
Calm behaviors: The petting scenario resulted in significantly longer periods of calm behaviors exhibited by the dogs while they were separated from their owner, compared to the no petting scenario (38 seconds versus 11 seconds of calm behavior, respectively).
Overall, not highly stressed: In general, the dogs in both conditions displayed mild behavioral signs of stress, some vocalizations, and oriented toward the area that the owner exited. However, these signs were not severe and salivary cortisol levels after separation were not elevated, suggesting that the level of stress induced by this test was relatively low.
The results of this pilot study suggest that, when dogs are subjected to a mildly stressful situation such as a short separation from their owner, gentle petting prior to the separation can promote reduced feelings of stress and calmer behaviors. While this is not earth-shattering stuff, it is a nice bit of evidence showing that providing comfort and a secure base to our dogs is a good thing and not something to be discouraged.
The moral of the story? If we believe that comforting a loved one when they are distressed is the right thing to do (i.e., we should comfort those who we love), why would we not consider this to be an appropriate approach with our dogs? Fear/anxiety is not a choice. The caring (and effective) approach to dealing with a dog’s anxious response is to calmly and quietly come to the dog’s aid and remove him from the anxiety-provoking situation.
In our training classes, we quickly move dogs who appear stressed to a quiet corner or behind a set of visual barriers. We teach owners how to “body block” so that they act as their dog’s safe base. We encourage owners to sit on the floor and allow their dog to lie close or in their lap (size permitting) as the dog gradually acclimates to the new setting and commotion of class.
In some cases, we may partition off a small section of the training floor with gates. We find that this often allows timid dogs to be introduced to the class once they are comfortable and happy.
It is the responsibility of each of us, as our dogs’ caretakers, to protect them from excessively stressful and frightening situations. Simply ignoring a dog’s stress in a misguided attempt to change behavior is counter-intuitive to most owners who love their dogs – as it should be. Not only does comfort not reinforce fear, we have evidence that our dogs benefit from our comfort and support by showing reductions in stress and anxiety. Be there for your dog, always.
And remember, a fear of clowns is real. If you see a clown coming my way, don’t get between me and the door!
Cited Study
Mariti C, Carlone B, Protti M, Diverio S, Gazzano A. “Effects of petting before a brief separation from the owner on dog behavior and physiology: A pilot study.” Journal of Veterinary Behavior 2018; 27:41-46.
There’s a significant difference between professional dog trainers and many dog owners: Owners tend to react to things the dog has done that they don’t like; in their minds, this reaction is what might be called “training.” In contrast, trainers set up situations so that their canine pupils don’t have any opportunities to practice undesired behaviors, and actively teach dogs how rewarding it is to perform desirable alternative behaviors, instead.
The good news: You don’t have to be a professional trainer to reap the advantages of trainers’ effective tactics!
A couple of factors are pivotal to the success of this approach. The first is to recognize that there are no “good” nor “bad” behaviors. Behavior is just information and communication. Once you understand this key element you can shift your goals from stopping “bad” behavior to looking for ways to encourage the behavior that you want to see again and again.
Second: Recognize that when your dog is doing something that you don’t like he may often not be giving you a hard time, but instead he might be having a hard time. If you support and guide your dog in learning the behaviors that will result in reinforcements, you won’t have to spend so much time contemplating punishment scenarios.
Dogs who already display unwanted behaviors (such as jumping up, barking when people come over, pulling on leash, etc.) may have you trying ways to stop or decrease the behavior – punishment-based reactions. But punishment can result in potentially dangerous side effects (including canine apathy, aggression, escape/avoidance, and generalized fear).
Worse – the punishment is frequently ineffective, because the dog has no clue what he should be doing instead!
Planning Ahead for Dog Training Success
The proactive approach is to know in advance about what you would like for your dog to be doing, and actively teach him to do these things – or to simply “catch him in the act” of doing these things and reinforce those behaviors!
For example, instead of focusing on your dog’s jumping and fretting about how to make him stop it, “mark” (with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and reinforce him when he’s got four paws on the floor. Teach him to sit on cue, or train a “default sit” (where he is reinforced for sitting any time you are paying attention to him and haven’t given him any cue). Continue marking and reinforcing sitting and “four on the floor” and you’ll see more of it. And do it before he has an opportunity to jump!
In addition to reinforcing easy alternatives to the undesired behavior, think about your environment. Arranging antecedents – the things that occur right before the behavior you want or don’t want – allows you to set up your situation so that your dog will have the best chance at successfully doing the stuff you like, and not doing the stuff you don’t like.
To use our jumping example again: Position a baby gate or exercise pen that separates your dog from visitors. Demonstrate how they can greet or pet your dog over the gate when all four of the dog’s feet are on the floor, but should take their hands away if the dog is jumping. Or, plan to greet visitors with your dog on-leash while working on your training. This way you are setting your dog up to be successful by preventing him from practicing jumping.
Canine distemper virus (CDV) was once a common killer of dogs and other animals. Cats, ferrets, and raccoons are also quite susceptible to contracting this virus, but dogs are considered the “reservoir” host. This means that CDV prefers to hang out in dogs, and they serve as a source of infection.
However, thanks to a very effective and readily available vaccine, distemper has become fairly rare in companion canines. Still, CDV is not eradicated, so it’s important to recognize the signs and symptoms of this virus. This is especially true if you are dealing with puppies in shelter or foster settings, “backyard-bred” dogs, or dogs that have been imported from other countries.
Currently, the most likely place that CDV is encountered is in rescued puppies in shelters. These pups often have multiple health issues and suppressed immune systems, making them more susceptible to illness. Many of these puppies have gastrointestinal (GI) parasites like roundworms and hookworms, and external parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mites. As a final insult, many have received poor nutrition prior to rescue.
All of these factors contribute to a poor immune response, so when a life-threatening virus makes the rounds, puppies are often the first infected. And when you house them in a stressful shelter, they become prime targets for opportunistic bacteria and viruses.
CDV is spread through respiratory secretions; sneezing and coughing are frequent modes of transmission. As you can imagine, in a shelter, there may be lots of both! This is exacerbated by the sort of crowded and stressful housing conditions that are often seen in rescues. Dogs can mount successful immune responses and fight the disease off, but it’s more difficult to do in a shelter.
The incubation period between exposure and the development of clinical signs in unprotected dogs may be as little as one week to as long as six weeks, with the majority of dogs showing signs within one to four weeks.
Making control of the contagion more difficult is the fact that dogs who are infected with distemper can start shedding the virus (be contagious) up to five days prior to the onset of clinical signs of the illness.
Signs of Distemper in Dogs
The clinical signs of CDV occur in stages and in three main body systems: the upper respiratory tract, the gastrointestinal tract, and the central nervous system.
Initially, a dog may show signs consistent with upper respiratory disease: coughing, sneezing, high fever, lethargy, and nasal and eye discharge. This is often mistaken for other canine respiratory tract infections like parainfluenza, influenza, and Bordetella.
At the same time, or slightly after the development of the respiratory signs, a dog may demonstrate GI upset (vomiting and diarrhea). Afterward, recovery may seem to occur.
Generally, however, within one to three weeks, neurological signs may develop. These can include myoclonus (a rhythmic jerking of a group of muscles), seizures, and behavior changes. “Gum chewing” seizures are a well-known manifestation of neurological distemper. They look exactly like they sound – the dog sporadically displays a rhythmic chewing motion.
It is important to know that the three stages of infection present in this order as a general rule; as with any rule, there are exceptions. Dogs can demonstrate only neurological symptoms or only upper respiratory symptoms. Thus, CDV should always be suspected in young dogs with symptoms in any of those systems.
The severity of these symptoms varies widely with the immune status of the dog. If a dog has a healthy immune system, she may successfully fight off the disease and clear it from her body with no long-term effects and minimal clinical signs. In some cases, there will be permanent damage to the enamel of the dog’s teeth, as well as marked thickening of the foot pads (called “hardpad disease”). If a dog is immunosuppressed in any way, the symptoms tend to hit her harder and have a higher risk of death.
Canine Distemper Diagnosis
There is no simple bedside test for canine distemper. In fact, diagnosing it can be a little tricky. Your veterinarian will start with a thorough physical examination (a “nose-to-tail” assessment including vitals like heart rate, weight, and rectal temperature) and a detailed history. This should include questions about where your puppy was adopted and any history of illness, as well as vaccine status.
If your vet suspects CDV, he may recommend one of several tests. Initially, he will likely run blood tests to check red and white blood cell counts, as well as organ function. In the early stages of infection, there may be mild anemia and a low lymphocyte (white blood cell) count. The veterinarian may also look at a blood smear, as dogs with CDV can have small “inclusion bodies” noted in their white blood cells. This is a rare finding and it’s unlikely that your veterinarian will see this, but it never hurts to look!
If your vet suspects concurrent pneumonia, x-rays of the chest will be recommended. For a thorough work-up, a urinalysis may also be conducted.
There are several specific laboratory tests that may be used to diagnose CDV. The most frequently utilized is the polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test, which works well to detect distemper in dogs who have not yet been vaccinated against distemper – but which does not reliably discriminate between a dog who is actually infected with distemper and a dog who has been vaccinated against it.
In February 2017, the veterinary diagnostic laboratory Idexx announced that it now offers a test that can differentiate between vaccinal strain interference and actual infection with CDV. In an infected dog, the level of replicating virus is exponentially higher than that found in a vaccine. The quantitative test that is now offered will give actual levels of the vaccine strain present, helping to distinguish between distemper vaccination and true infection.
Another test that your veterinarian may recommend is an immunofluorescence assay (IFA). The problem with this test is that it is generally only positive for the first three weeks after infection. Often, distemper isn’t suspected until the development of neurological signs. That may be beyond the period where it is reliably detected by IFA. As a result, this test gives positive results only in certain groups of patients.
Usually, a diagnosis of distemper can be confirmed through the combination of the dog’s history, veterinary examination, and PCR testing with blood, urine, or a swab from the eye (called a conjunctival sample). But owners should be aware that there are cases that elude certain confirmation.
Distemper Treatment for Dogs
Unfortunately, the only treatment for CDV consists of basic supportive care. It is a virus, so antibiotics are not warranted specifically to fight the distemper. Frequently, though, the illness can trigger secondary bacterial infections like pneumonia, in which case antibiotics will be indicated.
Medications such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) may be used to reduce fever and inflammation, as well as to help the dog feel better. Patients who aren’t eating or drinking will need IV fluids and IV antibiotics. If the dog isn’t eating, nutrition may be supplied via the placement of a feeding tube.
Pneumonia often develops in CDV patients. This is treated as above and with the addition of oxygen therapy, nebulization (a device that delivers medication via a mist that is inhaled into the lungs), and coupage (a physical therapy during which the dog’s chest is struck in a precise way with cupped hands). These treatments help loosen and clear secretions in the lungs.
If your dog is hospitalized, she will be kept in an isolation ward, as CDV is highly contagious and spread through sneezing and coughing.
Distemper Prognosis for Dogs
It is not hopeless if you have a puppy diagnosed with CDV, but the road to a complete recovery can be a long one, and a rosy outcome is never certain. Prognosis depends on the presence or absence of neurological signs like myoclonus and seizures.
If a puppy survives the initial infection, she may go on to live a fairly normal life – or she may experience persistent seizure activity and myoclonus indefinitely. These can sometimes be managed with anti-seizure medications, but the prognosis is very hard to predict.
Two other unsightly after effects of a distemper infection, enamel hypoplasia (no development of enamel on the teeth) and thickened nose and footpads (hyperkeratosis) also can persist for life.
Distemper Prevention
Finally, for the good news: Vaccinations for CDV are available at any general practice veterinary clinic and are highly effective.
There are two types of distemper vaccines: modified live and recombinant. Modified live vaccines (MLVs) offer the strongest protection from the disease. They also pose a tiny risk of conferring a CDV infection. However, according to veterinary virologist Dr. Melissa Kennedy at the University of Tennessee, the chances of this happening are “virtually nil” – the risk for reversion to an infective strain is so low that we take that very tiny risk over the much greater risk of CDV infection from other infected dogs.
The other type of CDV vaccine is a recombinant vaccine – one that has been produced through recombinant DNA technology. These vaccines have zero chance of ever reverting to a pathogenic strain, but historically were considered less effective than MLV vaccines. More recent studies have demonstrated that they are just as effective as the modified live vaccines, and thus are being used more frequently (and are what we use in my veterinary clinic).
Immunity takes about two weeks to develop after vaccination. The immune system must be given time to recognize the virus and then produce antibodies against it.
Because of the possibility that maternal antibodies can interfere with earlier vaccinations, puppies shouldn’t be considered safely immunized against distemper until they have received a vaccine when they are past 18 to 20 weeks of age (the age at which no more maternal antibody interference is possible).
Callejera’s story
Many veterinarians and veterinary technicians travel to third-world countries to help with preventive health clinics. These are invaluable services that protect both animal and human health worldwide. But sometimes, the big heartedness of these individuals leads to heartbreak.
That’s how Callejera (Spanish for “street dog”) came to the United States from the Dominican Republic. She was a stray presented to a preventive clinic. “Callie” quickly stole the heart of April, an American veterinary technician who was volunteering at the clinic. Callie was vaccinated and spayed, despite having a fever and some eye discharge. Despite the fact that Callie’s history was unknown, April elected to adopt Callie and bring her back to the United States.
Callie did well for about a week once the fever subsided. She easily won the devotion of all who knew her. Then she became very ill. She began to vocalize and “bite” at her legs – and even bit at April. She became lethargic and disoriented. Then her back legs began to jerk rhythmically, all day, every day. She cried in pain, day and night. Antibiotics, pain relief, and gentle, loving nursing care did not give her any relief. A number of possible diagnoses, including panosteitis and other infectious diseases, were entertained and ruled out.
After a few days and failed treatment, distemper was considered as a possible diagnosis, and tests confirmed this suspicion. The most likely explanation is that she already had been infected with distemper before she got vaccinated. Despite supportive care, Callie was suffering and only getting worse. She was showered with love and treats by April and the staff of the veterinary specialty clinic, and then she was peacefully euthanized. She drifted off in the arms of the person who loved her.
Callie’s story is sad but serves as an important reminder that dogs imported from other countries often bring with them a host of parasites and infectious diseases. Careful consideration should be given to the risks, as well as the possible heartbreak, of adopting dogs from third-world countries.
Catherine Ashe graduated the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine in 2008. Dr. Ashe practiced ER medicine for nine years and now works as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, North Carolina, and loves the GP side of medicine.
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Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
