This article is a sidebar to our post “Diet, Dogs, and DCM”, which appeared in the November 2019 issue
If this is the first you’re hearing about this issue, please don’t panic and immediately switch your dog’s diet, unless your dog is used to eating different foods. Suddenly changing foods is likely to cause digestive upset in dogs that are unused to it. The longer you’ve been feeding the same food, the more likely your dog is to need time to adjust to something different.
Start by replacing very small amounts of the old food with the new. If your dog is doing well, gradually increase the amount of the new food while decreasing the old. This may take just a few days, or up to a few weeks, depending on how long you’ve been feeding the same thing and how sensitive your dog’s digestive system might be.
Stick with new foods that have a similar level of fat to what you’ve been feeding, at least to start with; it’s more likely that a dog will develop digestive issues if switched from a low-fat diet to one that is higher in fat, particularly if the switch is done too quickly or the dog has been on the low-fat diet for a long time.
If your dog is prone to food allergies, it’s likely he will react quickly with itching and scratching if you feed an ingredient that he’s allergic to. Digestive upset may point toward a food or fat intolerance, or may just be the result of trying to switch too quickly; if your dog vomits or has diarrhea, go back to the old diet until he’s back to normal, then try the switch once more, going even more slowly the second time. If your dog continues to have digestive upset with that food, try something else. Keep a journal of which foods you try and the ingredients in each, and you may be able to pinpoint the ones that cause problems for your dog.
If you have been feeding a limited-ingredient diet because your dog tends to have either allergic (itchy) reactions or digestive upset with other foods, here’s what we would recommend. Start by feeding another food in the same line of foods, so that only the protein source changes. Keep track of which proteins your dog has problems with, and which he does well with. Once you know which proteins your dog can tolerate, try another brand of limited-ingredient diet with a protein your dog is okay with. Continue trying different proteins from the same lines, and different brands of foods using those proteins to get a better idea of which ingredients cause problems for your dog. Once you’ve identified the actual ingredients that your dog has trouble with, you can then try branching out into other foods that are not limited-ingredient diets.
We know that many people feed the same food to their dogs all the time because it’s easier, or because they think it’s better (since that’s what dog food companies and many vets recommend), or because they tried a different food once or twice and their dog didn’t like it or didn’t do well on it. In these cases, we still recommend trying to switch your dog to a different diet, or preferably multiple diets using different brands of foods and different primary ingredients. We still believe that this approach is not only more likely to prevent DCM, but also helps prevent food allergies from developing, and provides protection against any nutritional deficiencies or excesses found in any single diet, as well as issues that lead to recalls.
For those who feed a rotational diet, we advise restricting foods in at-risk categories to less than half the overall diet. That means if you feed just one or two foods, neither should be in any of the at-risk groups we describe. If you feed three or four different foods, one can be among the at-risk categories. If you feed five or six different foods, two can be among the at-risk categories. Foods that fit into more than one of the at-risk categories are likely to be a higher risk than foods that fit into just one; the more categories a food fits into, the higher the potential risk. At least half the foods you feed should have: common meats such as chicken, turkey or beef (not lamb), multiple (not limited) ingredients, little or no legumes, and moderate to high protein.
This article is a sidebar to our post “Diet, Dogs, and DCM”, which appeared in the November 2019 issue
Some people will be upset that we didn’t name all 293 foods that have been reported to the FDA as being possibly connected to DCM. Those people think that if they could just see the list of named foods, they could avoid those and feel safe feeding anything else, but that’s simply not the case. Just because a food was named does not mean it should not be fed, particularly if there were only one or two reports for that food, or if the food has been reformulated or added taurine since the reports were made. We have no way of knowing how valid the reports might be; it could be pure coincidence that a dog developed DCM while eating this food, particularly in breeds known to be genetically prone to DCM, or maybe the dog was recently switched to that food, so it wouldn’t have had time to cause heart problems.
Conversely, just because a food is not named does not mean it is therefore safe to feed. Only a small percentage of suspected cases ever get reported to the FDA, and the likelihood of reports goes down for foods that have a small market share or are new to the market. The list of reported foods is also a moving target: not only will there continue to be more reports, but companies are likely to change the formulations or the names of their foods over time, so that the food currently on the shelf is no longer the same as the food that was reported, or a reported food has the same formulation but a different name. Looking for names is not going to help; knowing what to look for in ingredient lists is far more important.
With that said, there were a few foods that were reported so frequently that, even though they met AAFCO guidelines, we suspect they all contributed in some way to the development of DCM in some dogs. We are going to provide those names, though most now contain added taurine (and we applaud the manufacturers for doing so). We will also show the major ingredients in each food at the time of the reports, to the best of our ability (it is not always possible to know when an ingredient list changed). Below, you will find the seven products that were mentioned most frequently in the reports, with the factors that may be linked to DCM in bold type.
Note: In its June 2019 Update, the FDA provided a chart that listed the 16 companies with the most products listed among the reports it was investigating to date. No information was provided as to which of the foods made by those companies were the ones that were associated with the reports. In our view, this may have been unfairly damaging to certain companies, and offered consumers no information as to which products may have been free of mentions in the reports. We were more interested in trying to figure out which products had the most mentions in the reports, and what they had in common.
(44 reports) Zignature KangarooLimited Ingredient Formula (dry):
Old formula: Kangaroo, Kangaroo Meal,Peas, Chickpeas, Pea Flour, Sunflower Oil (preserved with Citric Acid), Flaxseed, Red Lentils, Green Lentils, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Pea Protein, Natural Flavors, Salt, . . .
Guaranteed Analysis: minimum 26% Protein
Product has added taurine and been reformulated since the first FDA report was released.
In total, Zignature had 12 foods named in a total of 77 reports (33 in addition to the dry Kangaroo Formula). The most named formulas other than Kangaroo were Turkey Formula (6), Lamb Formula (5) and Trout & Salmon Meal Formula (5), all dry foods. Three reports were for canned foods. All Zignature formulas are high in legumes and limited-ingredient. The guaranteed analyses show minimum protein ranging from 26-32%, with the Kangaroo Formula having the lowest protein percentage. The company states that they began supplementing all of their diets with taurine after the FDA reports were released.
(22 reports) Acana Singles Limited IngredientLamb & Apple Formula (dry):
Product has added taurine and been reformulated since the first FDA report was released.
In total, Acana had 18 foods named in a total of 78 reports (56 in addition to the Lamb & Apple Singles Formula). The most named formulas other than Lamb & Apple were Pork & Squash Singles (11), Duck & Pear Singles (8), Heritage Freshwater Fish (5), and Heritage Free-Run Poultry Formula (4). A total of 43 reports were for the Singles (limited-ingredient) line of foods, followed by 16 reports for the Heritage line and 10 for the Regionals line. All reports were for dry foods (Acana does not make canned foods). All reported Acana formulas are high in legumes; all Singles formulas are limited-ingredient. The guaranteed analyses show minimum protein ranging from 27-35%, with a discontinued Singles Formula (Wild Mackerel) having the lowest protein percentage. The company states that they reformulated their Singles foods, adding more meat and taurine supplementation, in September 2018.
Lamb Meal, Peas, Tapioca, Canola Oil (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Pea Protein, Pea Fiber, Flaxseed, Natural Flavors, Blueberries, Cranberries, Apples, Carrots, Spinach, Salt . . .
Guaranteed Analysis: minimum 26% Protein
No changes that we’re aware of since the first FDA report was released but already included added taurine.
In total, Earthborn Holistic had 5 foods named in a total of 37 reports (19 in addition to Meadow Feast). A total of 43 reports were for the Singles (limited-ingredient) line of foods, followed by 16 reports for the Heritage line and 10 for the Regionals line. The most named formulas other than Meadow Feast were Coastal Catch (8), and Great Plains Feast (4). All reports were for grain-free dry foods. All reported Earthborn Holistic formulas are high in legumes. The guaranteed analyses show minimum protein ranging from 25-32%, with Meadow Feast having one of the lowest protein percentages. The company states that they have always fortified their grain-free recipes with taurine and other amino acids. Earthborn Holistic is a Midwestern Pet Foods brand.
(12 reports) California Natural Kangaroo & Red Lentils Recipe, Grain Free Limited Ingredient Diet (dry):
Kangaroo, Red Lentils, Green Lentils, Peas, Sunflower Oil, Flaxseed, Pea Fiber, . . .
No changes that we’re aware of since the first FDA report was released; does not contain taurine according to the ingredient list on the Costco website.
In total, Kirkland Signature had 7 foods named in a total of 34 reports (22 in addition to Salmon Meal & Sweet Potato Formula). A total of 5 foods and 32 reports were for the Nature’s Domain line. The most named formulas other than Salmon Meal & Sweet Potato were Nature’s Bounty Organic Chicken & Pea (8), and Nature’s Bounty Turkey Meal & Sweet Potato (3). All reports were for dry foods (Kirkland Signature does not make canned foods). All reported Nature’s Domain formulas are high in legumes. The guaranteed analyses show minimum protein ranging from 20-27%. There is no indication that the company is making any changes to their foods. Kirkland Signature is a Costco brand but the Nature’s Domain line is also available elsewhere.
Product has added taurine since the first FDA report was released.
In total, Taste of the Wild had 11 foods named in a total of 63 reports (52 in addition to Pacific Stream). A total of 5 foods and 32 reports were for the Nature’s Domain line. The most named formulas other than Pacific Stream were High Prairie (10), Sierra Mountain (6), Pine Forest (6), Prey Angus Beef Limited Ingredient Formula (5) and Prey Trout Limited Ingredient Formula (5), with an additional 12 reports for unspecified grain-free formulas and 3 reports for unspecified Prey limited-ingredient formulas. All reports were for dry foods. All reported Taste of the Wild formulas are high in legumes; all Prey formulas are limited-ingredient. The guaranteed analyses show minimum protein ranging from 25-32%. The company states that they began adding taurine to recipes without grains after the initial FDA report was released.
Unhappy face when told "stay" at a sit, looks away.
I was teaching a “teen dog” class last night, and we were
working on the “stay” behavior. In the training center where I teach, we
instruct the students on the “four Ds” of stay – distance, duration,
distraction, and disappearance (the last one, very advanced, when the handlers
can leave the room and their dogs will “hold” the stay). We teach that when you
increase the difficulty of one of the “Ds,” you should decrease the others –
so, in the high-distraction environment of the training center, with eight dogs
in the class, to help your dog succeed, you should reduce the distance and
duration of the stay you ask of your dog. So far, so good.
As the handlers and their dogs practiced, I noticed one dog
doing exactly what my younger dog, Woody, does when we work on the stay
behavior. Every time this dog’s handler gave the hand signal and verbal cue for
“stay,” his dog turned her head away, jumped to her feet, and looked around for
something else to do. Clearly, there is something about the stay behavior that
she found either aversive or perhaps just far less rewarding than the other
behaviors we practiced in class.
Woody Doesn’t Like the Stay Cue
In Woody’s case, he loves doing all the “action” sort of behaviors I might ask him for: sit, down, stand, back up, spin, go through my legs. And he enjoys the eye contact that we usually share while we are working on these behaviors. But, just as the dog in class last night, often, when I cue him for “stay,” his head will immediately swivel and he will look away, like, “Did I just hear the doorbell? Maybe I should go check!”
Unhappy face when told “down stay”
As an active dog, I think Woody finds the stay behavior
extremely boring – and what’s more, it’s more difficult for him to do than the
far more fun, active, exuberant behaviors. Not difficult physically – difficult
mentally. To counter this, and keep
solid stays, I really need to increase the quality and quantity of the rewards
he gets for good stays, keep the length of the behaviors extremely
unpredictable (if they are all long, no reward is good enough to make it worth
his while!), and not over-practice. This is one of his behaviors that gets worse with more practice, not better,
since he finds it to be extremely not
fun.
Resist the Urge to Over-Practice!
It’s human to want to keep practicing the behavior your dog
is not very good at – especially when she’s really good at almost every other
behavior you ask for! But resist that urge! – unless you can find a way to
change how you ask for or practice the behavior, so that your dog actually
loves to hear your cue for that particular behavior. Woody loves to come find
me when I hide, so I guess I will start cueing him to “stay” before I release
him to find me (with a whistle, from my hidden location). I hope that will
increase his interest in and desire to “play” the “stay” game.
Are there any behaviors that your dog hates being asked to
do? How can you tell he or she doesn’t enjoy it? How have you countered your
dog’s unhappy reaction to the cue?
This evening I was relaxing, scrolling through the news online and checking out dog pictures and videos on social media, when I came across a story that just made my blood run cold. It was posted by an acquaintance who lives one town away from me, and detailed how her husband had gone out that morning for a jog with their Australian Shepherd Zazu; they take a six-mile run together on-leash, four days a week. One this morning’s run, however, not a block from their home, Zazu was attacked by two Rottweilers, who were loose, with their owners nowhere to be seen.
The police were summoned,
the dogs caught and impounded, Zazu rushed to the emergency veterinary
hospital, but his wounds were too serious and he could not be saved. A
neighbor, who heard the tumult and witnessed the scene, identified the dogs as
belonging to a couple who lives nearby. They are older, she told the police –
and one of their adult children who also lives there breeds the dogs and sells
puppies for extra income. Usually, the dogs are never taken out of the yard – but they do get loose from time to
time.
Loose dogs in the neighborhood
Personally, I don’t think
there is a place in society for dogs who kill. And while no one is perfect, and
everyone has had a dog who has gotten loose before, when you own large, powerful
dogs (especially more than one), you have a greater-than-average responsibility
to see to it that your dogs can not escape the security of your yard. I hope
the owners of these dogs are held responsible for Zazu’s death, and I hope the
dogs who murdered Zazu are not released back into the custody of their owners –
or, perhaps anyone else.
I know that’s harsh. It’s not the dogs’ fault that they were inadequately contained. It’s not their fault that their owners failed to socialize them adequately, so that they saw a leashed dog as prey or an interloper in their neighborhood, as opposed to a potential playmate. It’s not their fault that they have been denied the stimulation of an active dog like Zazu, locked up with no exercise, reduced to a life of breeding and reproduction, over and over.
It’s not fair. But it’s not fair to Zazu and his owners, either, that two very powerful, aggressive dogs were in a position to kill. What if the dog they attacked had been being walked by an elderly or frail person? The person might be dead, too. What if the dog they attacked was being walked by a mother who also was pushing a stroller with a baby inside? I shudder to think of it.
People who keep dogs in a socially
impoverished environment, for the sole pupose of breeding puppies to sell –
that’s even worse. This type of person is literally the backyard breeder in the
derogatory trope.
I am hoping that the dogs are designated
as dangerous and steps are taken to make sure they can’t be a threat to anyone
else in the community. And my heart goes out to the owners of poor Zazu; his
dad will be forever traumatized by the memory of the TEN MINUTES he struggled
to save his dog as Zazu was being fatally mauled.
What steps can Zazu’s owners take?
Zazu with his owner
I asked someone I know who is an animal
control officer in a different community: What should Zazu’s owners do? She
said, if there is any kind of record of the dogs being loose before, or any
previous complaint made about their aggression, the local animal control could
take steps to get a dangerous dog designation for the Rottweilers. If there is
any sort of record of the dogs doing this before, or even just being picked up
for running loose before, she would press the local court for the dangerous dog
designation.
But if this is the first record of any complaint about the dogs, then their owners are likely to be fined only for the dogs “running at large,” asked for proof of licensing and rabies vaccination (and possibly fined for lack of same), and charged for the short impound; all that Zazu’s owners can do is sue for Zazu’s final vet bill, including cremation.
Obviously, I love dogs, and don’t relish the idea of any dogs being euthanized. But large, aggressive dogs in the hands of owners who can’t or won’t contain them? I can’t imagine living and walking my own dogs in that neighborhood.
Do any of you have any advice for Zazu’s owners? Have you ever been in a situation like this?
WDJ Editor Nancy Kerns and a Poodle puppy from one of those many childhood litters, circa 1970.
I grew up in a family that loved dogs. Each of us four kids
had our “own” dog at some point growing up, and we also had some dogs who were
just indiscriminately part of the family, belonging to no one in particular.
The high point of the family’s dog ownership – or perhaps low point, the way I
see it as a responsible dog owner today – came during the years when I was
about five to 10 years old. During that period of time, I can safely say we
always had at least five adult dogs
(the number changed frequently). And in the year that I was about 7, we had
three different females who all had litters of puppies within a few weeks of
each other. Puppies were everywhere! I was in heaven!
For perspective, that was 1970. Spay/neuter surgery was
unheard-of. We lived in a rural area in Northern California, and our dogs slept
outside (with a few exceptions for the purebred miniature Poodle and a male and
a female Cocker Spaniel we owned for a time) and mostly ran free – meaning, not
one of my childhood dogs lived into anything like old age. Many died after
being run over by cars. That seems outrageous today, but it was normal then.
Most of my childhood friends had also lost dogs because they had been hit by
cars. (It was so common that veterinarians used an acronym for it: HBC.)
My dogs were my buddies.
I was the youngest of the four kids in my family by five
years, which meant that when I was 7, my siblings were 12, 13, and 14. None of
them wanted to hang out with me! And the closest kids my age lived a mile away!
So, it was dogs who kept my childhood from being really pretty lonely, although I never would have recognized any of that as truth at the time. What I did know is that the dogs were always there for me, always ready to play a game, snuggle, or go exploring with me. They were there when my feelings were hurt by the rejection of my exasperated older brother and his friends (there were a lot of boys his age who lived close to us, he had plenty of friends to choose from). They were there when my parents were loudly fighting about something (now I can understand; my parents were so young! And with that many kids – and dogs! – money was always tight). They waited with me (at the roadside!) for the school bus in the morning, gleefully ran to greet my school bus in the afternoon, and on days with no school, kept me company all day long.
Share your story
Which is why this
video resonated so much with me. Made by a wonderful organization (Pets Add Life) whose only purpose seems to
be to promote the adoption of pets from shelters, it brought me right back to
why I connected so much with dogs when I was a kid – a connection that has
continued through to today. Whose dog has not
soaked up some tears or joined in a celebratory dance?
Share the story of what your dog has gotten you through –
and share the video! If you follow the link
to the website, it points you to adoptable animals in your area –nice!
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The frequent sites of melanoma in dogs include the eyes, mouth, skin and toes.
Canine melanoma is the umbrella term for a group of melanocytic tumor subtypes that are so complex and diverse (yet distinct from each other) that they can sometimes seem as if they are different diseases entirely. What all types of melanomas do have in common is that they form when normal melanocytes (cells that are responsible for producing melanin) divide and grow out of control.
Melanomas are classified as either benign or malignant tumors. Fortunately, the majority of melanomas that occur in dogs are benign; this form of melanoma is typically referred to as a melanocytoma. These tumors are not cancerous and usually do not become cancerous, nor do they interfere with the function of normal cells. They will often cease growing once they reach a certain size and they do not invade other tissues. Furthermore, they do not metastasize, and they tend to not grow back when surgically removed.
In contrast, malignant melanomas, accounting for 5 to 7% of all canine melanomas, are highly aggressive and can metastasize to vital organs very quickly. About 100,000 cases of malignant melanoma in dogs are diagnosed in the U.S. each year.
This cancerous tumor tends to form in areas of the body that are pigmented, and while the tumors are usually brown or black, they can appear pink, tan, or even white, depending on the level of melanin being produced. These are most commonly seen in middle-aged to older dogs (average age of 9 years) with no gender predilection.
The location in the body will determine the specific biological behavior of this cancer. Dogs are often asymptomatic until the cancer has spread.
Causes of Melanoma in Dogs
The etiology of canine melanoma is not known, but researchers believe that it may due to a combination of environmental factors and genetics. It is also suspected that chemical agents, stress, trauma, or excessive licking of a particular spot could be factors; if cells are triggered to randomly multiply, it can increase the chance of mutation during cell division and result in the formation of malignant cells.
While ultraviolet light exposure is a major cause of melanoma in humans, it is not usually associated with the canine form due to their protective coat of fur.
Breed Disposition
Malignant melanoma in dogs is thought to reflect a strong genetic component with the following breeds being over-represented: Airedales, Bloodhounds, Boston Terriers, Chihuahuas, Chow Chow, Cocker Spaniels, Dachshunds, Doberman Pinschers, English Springer Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Gordon Setters, Irish Setters, Pekingese, Poodles, Rottweilers, Miniature and Giant Schnauzers, Springer Spaniels, Scottish Terriers, and Tibetan Spaniels.
The disease is also more likely to appear in the toes or toenail bed of black dogs; small breeds with heavily pigmented mucous membranes in the mouth are reported to be at an increased risk of oral melanoma.
Diagnosis
Diagnosis of canine malignant melanoma is typically obtained through cytology from a fine-needle aspirate of the tumor and/or biopsy and histopathology, but they are also known for being challenging to diagnose.
When melanomas are pigmented, the pathologist can usually see the melanin granules and characteristic cell morphology in the sample. Difficulties arise when melanocytic tumors lack pigmentation and the cell morphology varies tremendously.
The histopathological results of the biopsy may resemble carcinoma, sarcoma, lymphoma, or an osteogenic tumor. At this point, additional testing with special stains for immunohistochemical (IHC) markers (Melan-A, PNL-2, tyrosine reactive protein TRP-1 and TRP-2) is required; this screening is highly sensitive and specific for detecting melanocytes. It is vital to have an accurate diagnosis as that will determine the treatment protocol used and the prognosis.
Further diagnostic tests to assess the dog’s overall health and determine the stage of the disease may include a complete blood count; serum biochemical profile; urinalysis; chest radiographs and abdominal ultrasound to look for evidence of metastasis; and lymph node aspirate to check if cells have spread to the lymphatic system.
In dogs with the oral form of melanoma, especially if the lymph nodes are noted to be enlarged, further testing is warranted to check for metastasis in the abdominal lymph nodes, liver, adrenal glands, and other sites.
For oral tumors, radiographs and/or a computed tomography (CT) scan may be recommended.
Because digital (toe) melanoma often involves bone destruction, radiographs should be taken of the affected foot.
Specific diagnostic techniques for ocular melanoma involve slit-lamp examination, tonometry (intraocular pressure), gonioscopy (exam of the front part of the eye), and fundoscopy (exam of the back of the eye).
Stages of Melanoma in Dogs
The diagnostic tests discussed above will provide the foundation for assigning a stage and grade to the patient’s malignant melanoma.
Oral malignancies. For these tumors, staging is fairly straightforward and extremely prognostic. While the World Health Organization’s staging system is considered limited in its application (tumor size is not standardized to the size of the patient and histologic appearance and other histologic-based indices are not considered), it is often still used:
Stage I: Size of primary tumor is less than or equal to 2 centimeters (cm) in diameter with no involvement of lymph nodes.
Stage II: Size of primary tumor 2 to 4 cm in diameter with no involvement of lymph nodes.
Stage III: Size of primary tumor greater than or equal to 4 cm in diameter and/or metastasis to lymph nodes.
Stage IV: Tumor of any size with distant metastasis present.
Alternative staging systems incorporating histologic criteria have been explored, and while a comprehensive approach has unfortunately yet to be developed, these investigations have continued to find that size and location are extremely relevant.
Non-oral melanoma. The staging system for non-oral forms of canine melanoma is not well defined and further development with clinical variables and outcome is needed.
Histopathologic Grading
There are three histologic features that can be discerned from a biopsy that have been shown to have predictive value. The first, nuclear atypia, is the abnormal appearance of the nucleus of a cell and is considered an indicator of malignancy.
There are several approaches that can be taken to estimate the extent of nuclear atypia, but the assessment is subject to inter-observer variation. It is typically reported as mild, moderate, or severe. Levels greater than or equal to 30% for oral melanomas and greater than or equal to 20% for cutaneous and digit are considered to have poor prognoses.
The second, Ki-67 index, is a quantitative reporting of the cells that are positive for containing the protein Ki-67. This protein increases when cells prepare to divide, and it can be measured with a special staining process. A higher number of positive cells indicates that they are dividing and forming new cells quickly. A Ki-67 proliferative index of greater than or equal to 15% is considered a negative prognostic factor for cutaneous and digital melanomas, as is an index of greater than or equal to 19.5% for oral melanomas.
The mitotic index (MI) is the third and most common feature that can be discerned from a biopsy and is used to estimate the course of the disease. The MI measures the percentage of cells undergoing mitosis (cell division); a higher number of cells that are dividing indicates more aggressive disease. An MI of 3 or higher (out of 10) predicts decreased survival, while an MI of less than 3 predicts a more favorable outlook.
In cutaneous and ocular melanoma cases, the MI is the most reliable element for distinguishing malignant from benign tumors.
[post-sticky note-id=’396308′]
Types of Canine Melanoma
In dogs, there are four primary types of melanoma that can occur: oral (anywhere around the mouth or oral cavity); digital/subungal (around the nail bed and in, on, and between toes); cutaneous (skin); and ocular (in and around the eye). Each type has its own clinical presentation and biological behavior.
Oral Melanoma
This dog has oral melanoma. Photo credit: Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
Melanomas in and around the mouth are considered the most common oral malignancies that occur in dogs. It is estimated that this cancer accounts for anywhere from 14 to 45% of all oral tumors and 80 to 85% of all malignant melanomas.
This form of melanoma typically occurs in dogs ages 10 years and older and in smaller dogs; dogs with heavily pigmented mucous membranes are at higher risk. Tumors can occur anywhere in the oral cavity and surrounding areas, with the majority found in the gingiva/gums. The next most common site is the lips, and then the hard and soft palate. Fewer than 5% develop on the tongue.
The veterinarian is pointed to the cancerous mass in this example of oral melanoma in a dog. Photo credit: Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
Growths tend to be solitary, appearing as a distinct lump or as a flat plaque-like lesion that may or may not be ulcerated. Tumor colors may vary from black to gray to pink or with varied coloring; up to 33% have no pigment at all. Symptoms can include facial swelling; bad breath/mouth odor; abnormal breathing sounds; difficulty chewing, eating, or swallowing; loose teeth; bleeding from the mouth; excessive salivation; and weight loss.
Malignant oral melanomas are quite locally invasive, often infiltrating nearby tissue and bone. At the time of diagnosis, 57% of cases have radiographic evidence of bone involvement. The likelihood for metastasis is high (80 to 85%) with the most common site being the regional lymph nodes, followed by the lungs and other distant organs.
Digital (Toe) / Subungal (Nailbed) Melanoma
Dobermans are one of the breeds that have an increased genetic predisposition to developing melanoma. This dog had a malignant digital tumor, but recovered well after his toe was surgically removed. Photo by Dr. Catherine Ashe
This is the second most common type of malignant melanoma diagnosed in dogs, accounting for 15 to 20% of all melanoma cases and 11% of all tumors involving the digits.
Local invasion is a common feature of this form, with many dogs having evidence of bone damage. Anatomically, the forelimbs are slightly more likely (57.1%) than the hindlimbs (42.9%) to develop a melanocytic tumor.
Dogs with black coats tend to have a higher incidence of the disease. It tends to present as a solitary tumor between the toes, on the foot pad, or on the nailbed, causing swelling of the area and sometimes loss of the toenail.
This type of tumor often develops a secondary infection that can initially misdirect the diagnosis. Lameness is often the first noticeable symptom; swelling with bleeding or discharge from the affected area may also occur, and dogs may lick or chew the area.
Like the oral form of the disease, the digital is extremely aggressive with a dismal metastatic rate of 80%.
Cutaneous Melanoma
This is common in dogs and accounts for about 5 to 7% of all canine skin tumors. These tumors can form anywhere on the skin, and while most are malignant in humans, the majority are benign in dogs.
Benign skin melanomas are usually solitary, small, well-defined, deeply pigmented, firm, and move freely over underlying structures. The malignant form varies considerably in appearance, regardless of the location, and is usually asymmetrical. The color is variable, ranging from gray or brown to black, red, or even dark blue; they may have areas of pigmentation intermingled with areas of no pigment.
Malignant cutaneous melanomas are found most frequently on the head, ventral abdomen, and scrotum. The tumors tend to be fast-growing, and are often ulcerated and have developed a secondary infection. They are typically detected at a late stage with metastasis often detectable in regional lymph nodes. Cutaneous melanomas occurring on a mucocutaneous junction (a region of the body where the mucous membranes transitions to skin) have a higher potential to be aggressive and should be considered for treatment as a malignant form.
Ocular Melanoma
Melanoma can occur in and around a dog’s eyes. It can affect the eyelids, conjunctiva (the mucous membrane that covers the front of the eye and lines the inside of the eyelids), orbit (eye socket/eyeball), limbus (border of the cornea and the sclera), and uvea (the middle layer of the eye). Each location may exhibit different biological behaviors.
The good news is that these are frequently benign and rarely metastasize. That said, they can cause discomfort and problems as they grow, including vision impairment and blindness.
Malignancy tends to occur in the melanomas that form on the conjunctiva and in some of those that form on the eyelid and uveal. Additionally, malignant melanoma existing elsewhere in the body has the potential to metastasize to the eye. In general, ocular melanomas are less aggressive than the oral form; within the ocular melanoma group, the uveal form is characterized as being the most aggressive.
Symptoms of ocular melanoma can include a dark-colored mass in the eye or eyelid, darkening of the iris, irritation and redness of the eye, tearing, cloudy eyes, swelling in or around the eye, and twitching of the muscles around the eye.
Treatment
The first goal of melanoma treatment is to establish local and regional control, which is closely followed by the pursuit of systemic control.
Surgery
This is the primary and most common treatment option for all types of melanoma, including benign tumors. Complete surgical excision of the tumor, surrounding tissue, and any affected bone is required in an effort to obtain clean margins and effective local control. Dogs who have their tumors completely removed with surgery have the lowest chance of experiencing tumor regrowth during their lifetime. Not only can the surgical option occur promptly, it has increased curative intent and tends to be less expensive when compared to other modalities. The extent of the surgery will depend on the anatomic site and size of the melanoma.
Cutaneous melanomas usually require removal by lumpectomy/surgery, while other locations require a more aggressive excision.
Removal of a digital tumor often includes the amputation of the affected toe (with removal of all three phalanges to ensure adequate margins). Surgery to remove melanomas on the larger weight-bearing paw pads can be challenging, as there is the potential for loss of leg function; sometimes amputation of the limb may be the best course of action.
With ocular melanoma, the recommended treatment is enucleation (surgical removal of the eye) when tumors are confined inside the eye.
Oral melanomas may require partial removal of the maxilla or mandible (jaw) bones. While this sounds drastic, dogs tend to do very well after this type of surgery and experience little to no impact on function or quality of life. Cosmetic outcomes tend to be acceptable; if needed, reconstructive surgery can be performed to rebuild these areas.
Other melanoma sites within the oral cavity, such as sublingual or hard palate tumors, are prohibitive for complete surgical removal. Debulking surgeries can, however, reduce the amount of tumor present, but with incomplete surgical removal, oral melanomas tend to regrow quickly (often within days or weeks); subsequently, additional therapy protocols should be considered.
Recently, veterinary specialists have started advocating for removal of the regional lymph nodes and application of radiation therapy to the tumor site if tumor removal is incomplete or the disease has been found to have infiltrated the nodes. It is theorized that this change in protocol might account for the improved survival times occurring in nonvaccinated cases (see “Oncept: A Melanoma Vaccine,” on page 20).
Radiation Therapy
Melanomas were previously considered resistant to radiation therapy (RT), but many more recent studies are finding that there is a significant role for RT in achieving satisfactory local primary tumor control. In particular, RT is an effective treatment for malignant melanomas that cannot be surgically removed due to size or location, or as an adjunct treatment for tumors that either were not, or could not, be completely removed, and/or for cases where the disease has metastasized to local lymph nodes without distant metastasis.
Melanomas tend to respond best to hypofractionated/coarse fraction (radiation given less frequently but in larger doses) RT, typically administered once a week for four weeks and requiring anesthesia. In addition to the tumor site, RT will usually also be administered to the local lymph nodes if metastatic disease has been confirmed.
Side effects from RT tend be uncommon but may include sloughing of nails and foot pad surfaces and mild irritation of the mucous membranes of the mouth. If they do occur, they usually heal within one to two weeks and have minimal impact.
Tumors treated with RT can shrink significantly and may even become undetectable; accordingly, they can remain stable for a period of time. Compared to melanomas treated with surgical removal, however, those treated with RT alone have an increased incidence of recurrence. About 25 to 31% of dogs with oral malignant melanoma that is treated with RT respond partially and 51 to 69% respond completely.
Chemotherapy
Used alone, chemotherapy has not shown to be of much benefit for local control. Because options for treating canine malignant melanoma are fairly limited, chemotherapy has traditionally been used in an attempt to achieve systemic control in combination with surgery and/or radiation therapy.
The drugs typically used in the standard chemotherapy protocols include carboplatin, cisplatin, dacarbazine, melphalan, and doxorubicin.
Unfortunately, there are an increasing number of studies that are demonstrating that chemotherapy as an adjunct treatment does not have a significant impact on either time to progression or overall survival, even when compared to local treatment alone. There is extensive literature on the human counterpart of this approach that suggests melanoma is extremely resistant to chemotherapy. However, chemotherapy has been the most effective treatment available for delaying metastasis until the recent release of the melanoma vaccine (see “A Melanoma Vaccine,” below). At this time, it is still considered a viable but limited treatment option for dogs who don’t respond to the vaccine.
Targeted Chemotherapy
Although not a chemotherapy drug in the traditional sense, Palladia (toceranib) is a novel FDA-approved anticancer drug developed specifically for dogs. While it is labeled for use in dogs diagnosed with mast cell tumors, it has been evaluated for use against other forms of cancer.
Whereas traditional chemotherapy destroys all rapidly dividing cells, Palladia, a tyrosine kinase inhibitor, is a targeted therapy that inhibits specific receptors on the surface of cancer cells and nearby blood vessels (cutting off blood supply) that may result in delaying tumor growth and the progression of the disease. Palladia may be considered in cases that have become unresponsive to vaccine immunotherapy or standard chemotherapy protocols.
Anecdotal reports present varying responses to the drug, ranging from dogs having stable to partial responses for several months to others having no notable response.
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Prognostic Factors
Malignant melanoma is one of the few cancers in dogs for which anatomic location is an extremely important prognostic indicator. Dogs diagnosed with Stage I melanomas have significantly longer survival times than dogs diagnosed with Stage II-IV disease, regardless of treatment chosen.
Negative prognostic factors that affect all types of malignant melanomas include metastasis and size of the tumor.
Oral Melanoma
Size of primary tumor is prognostic for metastasis and survival time (the smaller the tumor, the better).
A mitotic index less than or equal to 3 is associated with a better prognosis.
In general, the closer the tumor is to the front of the mouth, the better the prognosis.
The median survival time (MST) for untreated dogs is 65 days.
Survival times following surgery have been estimated at 17 to 18 months for Stage 1; 5 to 6 months for Stage II; 3 months for Stage III, and 1 month for Stage IV.
Survival time following removal of mandible is 9 to 11 months. In about 22% of the cases, the cancer will recur.
Survival time following removal of maxilla is about 4.5 to 10 months; about 48% of the cases will recur.
Response to radiation therapy is about 80%, with survival times of 211 to 363 days.
Digital Melanoma
The median survival time for dogs without lymph node involvement or metastasis and treated with surgical amputation of the digit is 12 months, with 42 to 57% surviving one year and 11 to 13% surviving two years.
Digital melanomas not located on the nail bed and having a low mitotic index are often cured with surgery alone.
Cutaneous Melanoma
Most cutaneous melanomas are benign, in which case the prognosis is excellent.
About 65% of dogs with cutaneous malignancy succumb within two years due to local recurrence or metastasis.
Dogs with malignant tumors that are less than 4 cm have a significantly better median survival time (12 months) than tumors greater than or equal to 4 cm (4 months). About 46% of dogs with the malignant tumors that are smaller than 4 cm will survive for at least two years.
Dogs with well-differentiated malignant tumors and a mitotic index less than or equal to 2 have an MST of 104 weeks.
Dogs with poorly differentiated malignant tumors and a mitotic index greater than or equal to 3 have an MST of 30 weeks.
Ocular Melanoma
The majority of ocular melanomas are benign, with an excellent prognosis.
Uveal is the most common malignant form, characterized by aggressive behavior.
Only 4 to 8% of malignant uveal melanomas metastasize to lungs and liver.
Malignant tumors removed by enucleation have a low incidence of reoccurrence.
Stay Vigilant for the Signs of Canine Melanoma
While there are other forms of skin cancer that develop in dogs, melanoma is the most common. If you find any raised lumps or bumps with or without coloration on your dog, consult your veterinarian as soon as possible.
I just did that very thing. My three-year-old mixed breed dog Tico has allergies, requiring frequent baths. I take that time to check him thoroughly – and this time I found a growth on the pad of his paw. We have an appointment next week with a veterinary specialist in internal medicine and oncology. I may be paranoid but after writing this, the fifth article in a series for WDJ on the most common canine cancers, I have earned a little overreaction.
The good news is that canine malignant melanoma is proving to be uniquely responsive to immune-based therapies, and there is evidence that the immune system could modulate the progression and metastasis of the disease. See “On the Horizon: Melanoma Treatments in Development,” on page 22 for more information.
The author’s 10-year-old
Cattle Dog-mix, Charlotte, walking on an underwater
treadmill, not long after a veterinarian predicted she’d never walk again. She’s made a nearly
full recovery from a
herniated spinal disc.
Almost immediately after my youngest dog, Sirius, had surgery on both of her knees last year, I brought her to see a physical therapist. This certified animal rehabilitation specialist created a personalized conditioning and rehabilitation plan for Sirius. One of the most useful modalities of treatment that Sirius received was hydrotherapy. It allowed her to maintain all the muscle she had developed in her Rally Obedience and agility training prior to her knee injury – and best yet, she loved the underwater treadmill. Sirius had one physical therapy session per week for eight weeks and was cleared to resume normal activity just 10 weeks post-surgery.
About 10 months later, my 10-year-old Cattle Dog-mix, Charlotte, went from walking multiple miles a day and training in sports to not being able to get up – overnight! We carried her into an emergency vet clinic where she was diagnosed with a herniated disc. We were told she would never walk comfortably again and that we should be thinking about of end-of-life decisions.
Two days later we brought her to the same veterinary rehabilitation specialist who worked with Sirius; we doubted the dire prognosis we had been given for Charlotte and weren’t ready to give up on a dog who had been so vigorous so recently! Through a combination of therapeutic treatment modalities, which included twice weekly hydrotherapy for the first month, Charlotte also made an (almost) complete recovery and was cleared to do everything she loves: hiking, swimming, long walks, trick training, etc.
I credit so much of my dogs’ recovery to hydrotherapy and skilled certified veterinary rehabilitation specialists.
HOW HYDROTHERAPY HELPS
Canine hydrotherapy is a beneficial treatment modality for dogs recovering from many orthopedic injuries, as well as degenerative conditions like arthritis, because allows dogs to move while bearing little or no weight on an injured limb. A less commonly considered benefit of the treatment is increased self-confidence for a dog who is injured or old.
Hydrotherapy isn’t dogs just splashing around in a pool, and the healing potential for injured dogs can’t be achieved by just bringing your dog somewhere for a recreational swim. There are two primary modalities of hydrotherapy treatment that dogs might receive: working on an underwater treadmill and therapeutic swimming. “The added resistance from water is excellent for increasing cardiovascular fitness, while providing low impact resistance muscle training,” says Marti Drum, DVM, Ph.D.
Dr. Drum is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (ACVSMR), a Certified Canine Rehabilitation Practitioner, and a Clinical Associate Professor in the Small Animal Clinical Sciences Department at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville. She is also the acting service chief of the physical rehabilitation service at the University of Tennessee Certificate Program for Canine Rehabilitation – and a huge fan of hydrotherapy!
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UNDERWATER TREADMILL
The underwater treadmill used by veterinary specialists looks a lot like a fish tank. During treatment, your dog will enter the treadmill (sometimes with a life vest on) either on her own or with a certified technician. The dog enters the glass tank when it’s empty, and then the door is closed and the tank is slowly filled with warm water (between 80° and 94° F).
The depth of the tank is adjusted according to the dog’s size, her specific injury, and how far along she is in the recovery process. If the therapist determines that she should be bearing no weight whatsoever, the tank is filled to a level that enables the dog to float with her paws just barely touching the treadmill. The lower the water level, the more weight she will bear on her limbs.
Once the water reaches the desired depth the treadmill floor begins moving at the speed determined by the specialist. When this happens, most dogs naturally will begin walking – even dogs who are experiencing too much pain or are too weak to walk on land often begin moving in the underwater treadmill because of the support and buoyancy the water provides. Depending on where the individual dog is in her recovery process, jets may be used to add increasing levels of resistance and the speed of the treadmill can be adjusted to support building muscle or to maintain muscle.
In addition, says Dr. Drum, “The treadmill belt itself helps encourage a rhythmic gait to facilitate gait retraining.” This was certainly the case with my Charlotte, who had to be carried into the clinic, but a few days later, was able to walk comfortably in the underwater treadmill.
While walking on the underwater treadmill and walking on land are both low-impact forms of exercise, practitioners see stronger results for dogs who are able to exercise in underwater treadmills. The added resistance from the water helps dogs gain more muscle tone than from walking on land.
The water also supports a dog whose balance has been impaired. The support provided by the water enables and encourages dogs to move their joints in a nearly normal full range of motion. Plus, dogs who need to lose weight can burn more calories by working on an underwater treadmill than they can on land.
THERAPEUTIC SWIMMING
The second modality of canine hydrotherapy is therapeutic swimming, where dogs are gently guided into a small, heated pool and supported in swimming by a certified canine rehabilitation specialist. They are generally fitted with a canine life jacket, and dogs who are prone to ear infections may also be fitted with a canine “swim cap” that prevents water from entering their ears.
While beneficial to many dogs, therapeutic swimming isn’t an appropriate treatment for every injury. When swimming, most dogs primarily propel themselves through the water by using their front legs, so it wouldn’t usually be appropriate for dogs who have shoulder or front limb injuries, Dr. Drum says, as it can aggravate those conditions and slow recovery. Hydrotherapy may not be appropriate for dogs with groin injuries (strains of the iliopsoas muscle), either.
BENEFITS
Dogs with back, hip, and knee injuries often benefit from hydrotherapy, as do dogs who are recovering from surgical repair of injuries. And hydrotherapy is increasingly recommended as a useful treatment modality for proactively conditioning for canine athletes and working dogs.
But dogs don’t need to have an injury to benefit from hydrotherapy. Dr. Drum says osteoarthritis is the most common condition she sees treated with hydrotherapy. Older dogs who have arthritis constitute about half of the hydrotherapy patients that Dr. Drum sees, and she describes the benefits to these dogs as “profoundly positive.” Senior dogs who suffer from arthritis pain often experience decreased energy and activity, which can result in loss of muscle mass and weight gain – which, in turn, increases the stress on the already compromised joints.
Dr. Drum says, “It is not uncommon that our senior and geriatric patients experience a rejuvenation simply from starting a good hydrotherapy routine,” no more than once or twice a week, but at least once every two weeks. “You have to ‘use it or lose it’ to maintain muscle and cardiovascular fitness,” she says.
When my active, well-conditioned dog Charlotte was recovering from a herniated disc, she was unable to walk on land and quickly grew depressed and even more anxious than she is ordinarily. But during her hydrotherapy sessions, her confidence and happiness visibly increased as she discovered that she could move in the water without pain, and this seemed to give her more confidence as she slowly regained the ability to walk and move on land as well.
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TREATMENT PLANS
Hydrotherapy will likely be only part of the treatment your dog receives. Dogs who are recovering from injury or surgery are likely to need multiple modalities of treatment in order to achieve optimal recovery. Hydrotherapy treatments are often provided in conjunction with structured exercises both at therapy sessions and for owners to follow-up with at home between sessions.
Anti-inflammatory and/or pain medications are usually prescribed, at least initially. Other holistic treatment modalities such as acupuncture and laser therapy may also be offered and provided by your dog’s rehabilitation specialist.
CERTIFICATIONS
If you think that your dog might benefit from hydrotherapy treatment, you can either ask your general-practice veterinarian for a referral, or schedule a consultation and evaluation with a certified veterinary rehabilitation specialist on your own. If you find a practitioner on your own, however, be aware that not all people who are offering these services have the same amount or type of training.
It’s increasingly easy to find dog trainers, massage therapists, and even veerinary practices who offer “canine conditioning” classes or workshops that include swimming in a therapy pool. If your dog simply needs help with weight loss, zero-impact exercise, or conditioning, these services may be just fine.
But if your dog is recovering from an injury or surgery, her therapy would be best guided by a professional with as much education and hands-on training and experience as you can find. It’s important to utilize hydrotherapy for an injured dog only under the supervision of specialized veterinary professionals who can determine whether the therapy is right for your dog, and to create an individualized treatment plan for your dog’s specific health needs.
If they are not certified specialists, the therapy they provide for your dog may be at best ineffective and at worst cause more injuries or prolong healing. As just one example, a common mistake for those not properly trained is to leave a dog on the treadmill for too long, which can result in the dog becoming sore and prolonging healing.
For injured or post-surgical dogs, look for certified rehabilitation practitioners – people who have completed specialized training on top of their DVM or veterinary nursing degrees. Dr. Drum advises that owners look for specialists with one of the following credentials:
Certified Canine Rehabilitation Practitioner (CCRP). (Dr. Drum especially likes the program at the University of Tennessee that offers this certification.)
Certified Canine Rehabilitation Therapist (CCRT). (Dr. Drum favors the University of Florida’s program for this certificate.)
Certified Canine Rehabilitation Assistant (CCRA) or Certified Canine Rehabilitation Veterinary Nurse. People with this certification can provide services under the supervision and guidance of a rehabilitation-certified veterinarian.
DUE DILIGENCE
Because hydrotherapy is such specialized treatment, there aren’t certified practitioners in every community and you may have to travel to find appropriate treatment for your dog.
Finally, no matter what services you are seeking for your dog, always ask for (and check) a practitioner’s references, and read any online reviews left by former clients.
Out of sheer frustration, the dog who is just dying to reach other dogs in
order to sniff and
play – perhaps due
to a lack of regular
social opportunities
– can look a lot like a
dog with aggression.
Needless to say, the
behavior tends to
put off would-be
playmates (and their
owners!).
You’ve probably seen them. Maybe you even have one – a dog who happily plays with his canine pals in the dog park, but the instant he’s on leash and sees another dog he turns into a barking, lunging, lunatic hound-from-hell. What on earth is it that turns a canine social butterfly into Cujo, with a human hanging onto the other end of the leash for dear life?
Oh, wait. That’s it. The leash. He’s leash-reactive. But why?
REACTIVITY
Reactive behavior is defined as an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. In other words, the dog overreacts strongly to something that most dogs can handle calmly, offering behavior described as barking (sometimes screaming), lunging, snapping, and sometimes biting. It can refer to dogs who overreact to visitors at the door, people passing by the car window, trucks, skateboards, and a variety of other stimuli in addition to other dogs. Reactivity often involves aggressive behavior, but not always. The three types of dog-to-dog leash reactivity we commonly see are:
Offensive Aggression Reactivity. The dog who truly wants to go attack other dogs because he really doesn’t like them and wants to get them.
Defensive Aggression Reactivity. The fearful dog whose display is meant to keep scary dogs away.
Frustration Reactivity. The dog who loves to engage with other dogs and is immensely frustrated when not allowed to do so.
It is the third type, frustration reactivity, that we will discuss here.
DOG-TO-DOG LEASH FRUSTRATION REACTIVITY
Frustration reactivity can be the hardest of the three for a dog’s caretakers to understand. It’s easy to grasp that some dogs just don’t like other dogs, or are afraid of them, and the resulting displays make sense.
But when your dog clearly loves other dogs, it seems counterproductive for him to put on a show of behaviors that are usually quite off-putting to humans and other dogs alike. Why is he doing something that is likely to make other dogs want to avoid him, rather than approach? Because he can’t help it!
This behavior is most often seen in dogs who have a history of being able to approach other dogs whenever they want, on-leash or off. It may be the dog who simply has never been on-leash around other dogs – he grew up in an environment where dogs were off-leash and mingling all the time. This might have been a shelter, hoarder, or rescue situation where dogs were communally housed, or a rural community where dogs were allowed to regularly run loose. It might even be a dog imported from a street-dog colony in another country.
Alternatively, it might be a dog whose human routinely encourages him to “Go say hi!” to other dogs when walking on leash, even allowing the dog to drag her up to other dogs for greetings, often to the dismay of the owner of the dog being greeted.
In any case, this reactive dog is frustrated when he is thwarted from his desired goal of greeting the other dog, and his frustration results in an emotional display that can be quite impressive. This is often described as “low tolerance for frustration” or “lack of impulse control,” and the leash-reactive dog may well demonstrate these behaviors (perhaps to a lesser degree) in other frustration-causing situations as well.
Where the solution for a defensively or offensively aggressive-reactive dog is usually to move farther away or out of sight, this often only upsets our frustrated greeter even more, increasing the intensity of his emotional display as he sees the object of his desire disappearing from view. So, what to do?
Find that initial threshold distance, where your dog sees the other dog but isn’t yet reacting.
POSSIBLE TO PREVENT
Prevention is always better than modification; that’s why I have a “no on-leash greeting” policy at my Peaceable Paws training center as well as for my own dogs. To interact with other dogs, we go to a safely enclosed space where my dogs can socialize without the constraints of leashes, where we are not creating expectations of on-leash greetings.
If it’s too late for prevention, you have a variety of training and behavior modification options.
CLASSICAL CONDITIONING
Classical conditioning involves creating associations that result in emotional and physical responses. When Pavlov’s dogs salivated at the sound of the bell, it was because their brains had made an association between the sound of the bell and the arrival of the food. Their behavior wasn’t deliberate and it wasn’t under their control – they simply responded because their brains had come to realize that the sound of the bell reliably predicted the arrival of food.
The aggressive-reactive dog has a negative association with the presence of other dogs, and reacts accordingly – with aggression. The frustrated-reactive dog has a positive association with the presence of other dogs and reacts accordingly, with excitement.
Counter-conditioning changes an already existing association. In most cases, we are working to change a negative association to a positive one. In the case of a frustrated greeter, we are working to change an out-of-control positive association to a less exuberant but still positive association. Our goal is to have a dog who is happy to see other dogs but can still be calm and controlled about his happiness. This is a relatively simple procedure, and I have had a lot of success using it with frustrated greeters.
The easiest way to give most dogs a new association is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken – frozen strips, canned, baked or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it’s a low-fat, low-calorie food. Here’s how the process works:
1 Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of, alert and aware of another dog, but reasonably calm. This is called the threshold distance.
2 While holding your dog on leash, have a helper present a calm, leashed, neutral dog at your dog’s threshold distance. Or, alternatively, position yourself and your dog so that a leashed dog appear at threshold distance. The instant your dog sees the other dog, start feeding bits of chicken to your dog. Pause, let him look again, feed again. Repeat as long as the other dog is present.
3 Continue pausing and feeding until the other dog is out of sight. (Or, after several seconds, have your helper remove the other dog and stop feeding your dog.)
4 Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation or appearance of a dog at that initial threshold distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER) – your dog’s association with the dog at threshold distance is now about chicken instead of excitement and arousal.
5 Now, increase the intensity of the stimulus (the other dog) by decreasing the distance between the other dog and your dog. In small increments, move your dog closer to the location where the other dog(s) will appear, achieving your dog’s goal CER at each new distance, until your dog is happy to be very near to the other dog. Note: It may take a number of trials over a number of days or longer to achieve this!
The “Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is the “conditioned emotional response” (CER) you want. When you see your dog notice another dog, and then look at you with this expression, you are on your way to success.
6 Then return to your dog’s original threshold distance, and work on increasing the intensity of the other-dog stimulus. You can do this by having your helper encourage her dog to be more active (perhaps by jogging by, or playing fetch or tug), or by increasing the number/frequency of dogs appearing. Gradually decrease distance and attain your goal CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the more active/increased number of dogs in close proximity while remaining calm.
Caution: Because your dog wants to greet the other dog(s), she may become more aroused when the other dog(s) goes farther away or out of sight. If this happens, have your helper keep the neutral dog in view. Alternatively, engage your dog in other activities that she loves (such as targeting, playing tug, or catching a ball) to take her mind off the missing dog when the other dog is out of sight.
Walk Away!
(Adapted from Kelly Fahey’s Resource Guarding protocol, adapted from Chirag Patel’s “Drop” protocol)
Note: Be sure to repeat each step eight to 12 (or more) times, until your dog eagerly responds to the cue, before progressing to the next step. Remember, you want the dog to do a 180-degree turn and run away with you.
1 Say “Walk away!” in a cheerful tone and toss several treats on the ground about six to eight feet behind your dog. Turn and run with your dog to the treats to encourage him to move quickly.
2 Place a neutral (not valuable to the dog) object on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk away!” and toss several treats on the ground about six to eight feet from the object, behind your dog. Turn and run away quickly with your dog. Encourage your dog vocally – make it a party! Practice this step with a variety of neutral objects.
3 Place a low-value object (something your dog is mildly interested in) on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk away!” and toss treats as you and your dog run away from the object. Practice this step with a variety of low-value objects.
4 Place a medium-value (to your dog) object on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk away!” and toss treats as you and your dog run away from the object. Practice with a variety of medium-value objects.
5 Place a high-value object (one of your dog’s favorite things) on the ground. When your dog sniffs it, say “Walk away!” and toss treats as you both run away from the object. Practice with a variety of high-value objects.
6 Start using “Walk away!” occasionally when you are walking your dog on a leash, when he shows interest in something. (Not every time – he still gets to be a dog!) Use your Walk Away cue when he sees a dog in the distance before he starts to get aroused. Eventually you should be able to use it to move him away even if he has started to get excited.
BEHAVIORS THAT CAN MODIFY REACTIVITY
You can also use operant conditioning – teaching deliberate behaviors – to modify reactivity using a procedure known as Reverse CAT (Constructional Aggression Treatment).
The CAT procedure uses negative reinforcement (wherein the dog’s behavior makes an unpleasant thing go away). Say the dog is stressed and unhappy about seeing other dogs. The handler sets up a situation that exposes the subject dog to another dog – and moves the other dog away from the subject dog in response to any increase in the subject’s calm or relaxed behavior. The subject dog learns that behaving in a calm and relaxed manner will keep other dogs away. Once he is calm and relaxed, he no longer feels the need to keep other dogs away, and no longer displays aggressive behavior. (For more about this, see “Build Better Behavior,” WDJ May 2008.)
In contrast, a frustrated canine greeter is reinforced by any opportunity to move closer to another dog. So the Reverse CAT procedure uses positive reinforcement (wherein the dog’s calm behavior makes a good thing happen); when he’s calm, he gets to move closer to the other dog. The procedure also uses negative punishment (wherein the behavior we don’t want – his aroused behavior – moves him farther away from the dog).
Note: Don’t worry about the technical terms; they are confusing to even some very experienced trainers! I’ve included them for the sake of those who want to understand what behavioral constructs are at work here.
Start at your dog’s threshold distance (close enough to the other dog for him to notice, but not so close that he begins any frantic or excited behavior). Start walking toward the other dog. As long as your dog is calm, keep moving forward. As soon as he starts becoming aroused or excited about getting to greet the other dog, turn and walk away to whatever distance it takes until he is calm. As you repeat this multiple times, he will hopefully come to realize that the only way to get close to the other dog is to remain calm.
If your dog remains calm all the way up to the other dog, go on a nice, calm, parallel walk with the other dog. Sometimes (not every time!) at some point in the walk, find a safe, enclosed area where you can drop leashes and let the dogs play with a “Go play!” cue. (You don’t want to drop leashes and play immediately when your dog calmly walks up to the other dog, as this will again reinforce your dog’s belief that he gets to play with every dog he walks up to.)
This is not a simple procedure and is best implemented under the guidance of a behavior professional who is experienced with the protocol. When it works, it can happen amazingly quickly for a frustrated greeter. But for some dogs, the frustration of constantly being walked away is just too great, and they may only become more frustrated. In this case, the other protocols described here would be better.
BEHAVIORS THAT HELP WITH MANAGEMENT
If your dog is a frustrated greeter, you know that management is key to a low-stress existence. Often, management just means keeping your dog far away from other dogs. But there are times when some operant (trained) behaviors can help you through unexpected or unavoidable encounters. Here are two such useful behaviors:
Find it! This is the easiest behavior you will ever teach your dog. Just drop a high-value treat between your feet and cheerfully say, “Find it!” If necessary, point to show your dog where the treat landed. Repeat many times, until when you say “Find it!” your dog runs to your feet to look for the treat. Your dog will have a very positive classical association with the “Find it!” cue, so it will put his brain in a happy place when he hears it.
Note: Always drop the treat at your feet, so when he hears the cue, he will orient to your feet, taking his attention away from the other dog.
Walk away! This is an emergency escape cue that you will associate with a fun game: “Do a 180-degree turn and run the other way with me!” This protocol also installs a positive association with the cue, puts your dog’s brain in a happy place, and gives him something fun to do instead of reacting to the other dog.
BEHAVIORS THAT TEACH FRUSTRATION TOLERANCE
These are things you can practice with your dog to help him learn to better tolerate frustration. Teach them in the absence of other dogs so that eventually they will contribute to your dog’s ability to remain calm in the presence of other dogs.
Wait. This is easiest to teach with a food bowl. Have your dog sit. Hold up your dog’s food bowl, say “Wait,” lower it a few inches, give a click or other marker, raise it back up, and feed a treat from the bowl. Gradually lower a little farther each time until you can set it on the floor without him getting up. You can also use it at doors and any other time you want your dog to pause and wait. (See “Wait and Stay” WDJ May 2018.)
Leave it. Say “Leave it!” in a cheerful voice and place a durable high-value treat under your shoe. Wait for your dog to stop trying to get it; do not use corrections, and do not repeat the cue! When your dog backs away from the treat, click (or use some other marker), and feed him a different treat.
Continue to use a high rate of reinforcement (click and treat a lot!) as he continues to leave the treat under your alone. Eventually, uncover the treat, with your foot ready to cover it again if your dog dives for it. Do not correct or re-cue! Continue to click and treat until you can eventually leave the treat uncovered without him trying to get it. (See “Leaving for Good,” WDJ June 2018.)
Sit. Yes, even a simple “Sit” can be an impulse-control exercise. We teach “Sit” as a default behavior – the thing a dog does when he doesn’t know what else to do. It becomes a default behavior because he has been so highly reinforced for it that it is his automatic behavior choice. If, in addition to using a very high rate of reinforcement for offered sits (as well as ones you have cued), you also increase duration of the sit (gradually waiting longer and longer after he sits before you mark and treat), your simple “Sit” becomes a very valuable impulse control behavior.
GET HELP IF STRUGGLING
Even though your dog’s frustrated greeting reactivity comes from a happy place, it’s still not easy to live with and not always easy to modify. If you’re struggling, don’t despair. There are ever-more qualified force-free training professionals out there waiting to help you. Find one!
If your dog has a seizure, be sure she’s in a place where she can’t fall or harm herself, then try to video the event. As callous
as that sounds, the video can help your veterinarian diagnose the condition.
Seizures are not common in dogs – but they aren’t rare, either. The Veterinary Information Network estimates that the prevalence in the dog population is about 1%. While distressing to witness, they are rarely life-threatening. After you’ve gotten past the shock of the event and your dog is coming out of the seizure, your mind will be racing. What caused the seizure in the first place? Does your dog have epilepsy? Is this going to happen again? Turns out, these are not always easy questions to answer.
“Epilepsy” refers to a seizure disorder in which all other possible causes have been eliminated; it is a diagnosis of exclusion. The seizures seem to occur spontaneously, with no underlying structural brain disease or metabolic illness. This means that there is no test that will identify epilepsy. Rather, all other causes must be ruled out before this diagnosis can be made. Doing this can be an extensive and pricey process.
Certain breeds are predisposed to epilepsy, including Beagles, Poodles, Boxers, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Border Collies, and Shelties. While the disease may have genetic roots, it can also occur spontaneously in any dog.
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WHAT IS A SEIZURE?
Seizures occur when neurons in the brain rapidly discharge over and over again. Gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA) is a neurotransmitter in the brain that inhibits excitation of neurons, and in a seizure, the GABA receptor system is particularly involved. When seizures occur, normal GABA inhibition is overcome, and the brain cannot “calm down.” The increased electrical activity leads to changes in behavior, which can manifest in many different ways.
The classic seizure type, once called grand mal, is now referred to as tonic-clonic; tonic refers to the stiffening of the dog’s muscles and clonic refers to the dog’s twitching or jerking. Strong muscle contractions occur, the dog is unable to stand, and may lose bowel and bladder control. The dog may also vocalize.
The hallmark of a true seizure is the post-ictal period. Once the muscle contraction ceases and the seizure is over, a dog will take some time (from minutes to hours) to return to normal. In some cases, blindness and disorientation can persist for a day or more. Behavior may be very strange, such as a complete disinterest in food or ravenous eating. Difficulty walking may also occur. Your dog may sleep deeply or be restless.
Other seizure types include focal seizures (also called petit mal), in which only one part of the body is involved (such as the face); the muscles in that area may twitch or contract. In absence spells, during which a dog is conscious but not responding, the eyes may be open, but he may not answer when his name is called or he is touched. These types of seizures may presage tonic-clonic and can go unnoticed, because they are often subtle.
In most cases, these electrical discharges are self-limiting, meaning the seizure will cease on its own. In occasional cases, the seizure does not end, leading to a condition called status epilepticus (see sidebar, page 7).
DIAGNOSTICS
To reach a diagnosis of epilepsy, a thorough work-up will be necessary. At the initial examination, your veterinarian will gather a history.
Be prepared to answer questions about the duration and severity of any seizures you have witnessed, as well as any precipitating events that you noticed, such as stress, excitement, or sleeping. Toxins or medications in the house are also an important piece of the puzzle. While seizures are distressing to see, getting a video for your veterinarian could help with the diagnosis. Once your dog is in a safe position, try to record the event.
After history-taking, your veterinarian will examine your dog. This nose-to-tail exam will help identify any abnormalities that may point toward a diagnosis. Once completed, the diagnostics start.
Initially, a “minimum database” of diagnostic tests is recommended. This includes a complete blood count (CBC), chemistry panel, and urinalysis. Depending on your dog’s age, a blood pressure measurement and x-rays may also be recommended. These will identify underlying metabolic causes that can lead to seizures, such as extremely high blood sugar (as in diabetic ketoacidosis) or kidney failure related to antifreeze ingestion.
CAUSES OF SEIZURES
The cause of seizures can be broken down loosely into age groups:
Puppies younger than 6 months.
It is uncommon for a dog to develop true epilepsy before six months of age. In dogs this young, other causes are much more likely. These can include everything from parasitic infection with protozoa such as Neospora species, to viruses such as canine distemper virus, to toxin exposure (a common problem in curious puppies).
A thorough work-up for a puppy with seizures will include the minimum database above, as well as recommendations for the following (depending on breed and history):
Bile acid test. This is done if a liver shunt is suspected. Liver shunts are abnormal blood vessels that interfere with proper metabolism by the liver. When present, they can cause seizures and abnormal behavior, especially after meals. Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese, Bichon Frises, and Miniature Poodles are all predisposed.
Titers for infectious disease. Canine distemper virus (CDV), the fungi Cryptococcus and Coccidioides, and protozoal diseases such as neospora and toxoplasma can all cause seizure activity.
Computed Tomography (CT) scan or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). These tools for imaging the brain can determine whether structural abnormalities like hydrocephalus (a condition where cerebrospinal fluid builds up in a dog’s skull) or Chiari malformation (structural defects in the base of the skull and cerebellum, the part of the brain that controls balance)are present.
Cerebrospinal tap. This can help identify meningitis, as seen with inflammation or infection.Work-ups can be expensive and time intensive, so many owners opt to treat with medications and wait to see how the dog responds. With puppies, though, epilepsy is an unlikely cause, which means another disease may be at work and will likely progress and worsen.In puppies, it is also imperative to rule out exposure to toxins. Puppies are naturally inquisitive, and this often leads to accidental exposure to medications, cleaning products, and even illicit drugs.
Dogs 6 months to 5 years.
At this age, an absence of other clinical symptoms or known toxin exposure makes epilepsy the most common cause. This is especially true in predisposed breeds. As a result, once the minimum database has been completed and obvious causes such as toxins ruled out, many owners opt to treat with anti-seizure medications and see how a patient responds.
Dogs older than 5 or 6 years.
In dogs older than 5 years, the most common cause of acute onset of seizures is generally a brain lesion, particularly brain tumors (masses). These are usually benign meningiomas, which can cause problems due to pressure on adjacent structures.
The recommended diagnostics are similar to other age groups, starting with the minimum database. In this group, though, it’s also important to rule out hypertension (by checking blood pressure) and undetected cancer (by taking chest and abdominal x-rays) as possible causes.
TREATMENT
The treatment for seizures is evolving. First-line therapy remains drug management. These medications are referred to as anti-epileptic drugs (AEDs). Phenobarbital and potassium bromide have long been the drugs of choice, but other medications are now becoming popular. These include Keppra (levetiracetam) and Zonegran (zonisamide).
Phenobarbital has been used in the management of human seizures for many years. It is reliable, effective, and relatively cheap. However, phenobarbital is a controlled medication and should be handled with care. It must always be stored away from children.
Phenobarbital works on the dog’s GABA receptors, helping to inhibit the excitation of neurons.
Phenobarbital does have significant side effects. It can cause ravenous appetite, weight gain, increased drinking and urinating, and induction of liver enzymes. In rare cases, it can cause liver failure. As a result, liver values should be monitored closely (at least every six months) by your veterinarian. If liver enzyme elevations occur, a newer seizure medication may be recommended.
The dosage of phenobarbital must be individualized, so monitoring the dog’s phenobarbital levels is critical. This is usually initiated about two weeks after starting the medication, when it is expected to reach “steady state” levels. (A drug is at a steady state when the intake of the drug is at an equilibrium with its elimination.) At therapeutic levels, it can cause sedation and ataxia. Usually, dogs will acclimate to this over time.
About 85 to 90% of dogs will experience a significant reduction in seizure activity with phenobarbital.
Potassium bromide is also considered a first-line treatment, although this is shifting. Potassium bromide has many of the same side effects of phenobarbital and must also be monitored, as toxicity is possible. It can take up to four months for this medication to reach steady state levels.
Diet is an important part of therapy with potassium bromide. Food with higher levels of sodium can increase the excretion of potassium bromide, leading to lower levels and increased seizure activity. The dog’s diet must be consistent while on this medication.
Levetiracetam is being used more frequently to treat seizures. Initially, it was used in humans, and its use has been extrapolated to dogs. Its mechanism of action is not well understood, but it may affect the release of neurotransmitters. It is minimally metabolized by the liver, so it doesn’t cause the liver enzyme elevations that are seen with phenobarbital. Levetiracetam levels in the blood are therapeutic within about 24 to 36 hours (versus two weeks for phenobarbital).
Levetiracetam also does not cause ravenous appetite and weight gain. It is considered so safe that regular monitoring is not usually necessary. It is important to note that two formulations are available and each must be given in different ways. “Regular” Keppra must be given every eight hours; Keppra-XR, an extended release formulation, can be given every 12 hours but cannot be crushed and placed in food (doing so would thwart the mechanisms that cause the drug to be released continuously over a 12-hour period).
At 6 years old, after being stable on AEDs for several years, Bixby experienced status epilepticus. It took many medications over a full 24-hour period to stop his seizures. After two weeks of dedicated care from his vet and owner, he recovered fully.
Zonisamide does not act as quickly as Keppra but is faster than phenobarbital (about one week to reach steady state). Like Keppra, zonisamide generally has minimal effects on the liver. It does, however, have some rare side effects such as hepatopathy (liver congestion), dry eye, bladder stones, and hypothyroidism. Regular bloodwork monitoring is generally not necessary, but any changes in a dog’s condition should always be brought to the attention of your veterinarian.
Unfortunately, medications are often a life-long necessity. Working closely with your veterinarian to taper to the lowest dose possible for management is the best approach.
ALTERNATIVE THERAPIES
Products containing CBD (cannabidiol, a phytochemical compound extracted from cannabis plants) are becoming popular with owners as an adjunctive therapy for many illnesses. It is important to know that currently, other than in a handful of states, veterinarians are not allowed to recommend or discuss CBD as a treatment (see “Know Your CBDs,” WDJ August 2019).
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A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (“Randomized blinded controlled clinical trial to assess the effect of oral cannabidiol administration in addition to conventional anti-epileptic treatment on seizure frequency in dogs with intractable idiopathic epilepsy,” June 1, 2019) evaluated CBD as an additional treatment in patients with intractable seizures.
While the use of CBD was associated with a significant decrease in seizure activity, further investigation is warranted before therapeutic recommendations can be made. As laws change, your veterinarian may be able to discuss this with you. Use caution when choosing to administer CBD products without veterinary supervision, as neither the side effects nor interactions with other, FDA-approved medications are well understood.
In 2015, a study supported the use of medium chain triglycerides (MCT) as a dietary supplement to decrease seizures. The diet studied was ketogenic (high fat, low proteins and carbohydrates). There are a few commercial diets available that address this need and may be helpful in managing seizures.
Nutritional supplements such as omega-3 fatty acids, thiamine (vitamin B1), vitamin E, and s-adenosyl methionine with milk thistle may also have some benefit when used in conjunction with standard Debra Canapp treatment. Much of the knowledge we have in veterinary medicine about these supplements is extrapolated from human medical studies and anecdotal. However, the supplements are unlikely to cause harm. As always, consult with your veterinarian before adding any supplements to current treatments.
Lastly, several studies have demonstrated possible benefit with the use of acupuncture. The exact reason acupuncture may help lower seizure frequency is not understood. The theory is that acupuncture stimulates the release of inhibitory neurotransmitters, therefore “calming” the brain. While it is not typically first-line treatment, in patients with intractable seizures or those with poor response to medications, it is another modality that may offer some relief.
After nine years in emergency medicine, Catherine Ashe, DVM, now works as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, NC, and loves the GP side of medicine.
PetSafe’s
Ricochet Electronic Dog
Toy (set of two): $60
Dogs need to be actively
supervised with all toys,
but especially electronic
toys that contain
batteries. Never leave
your dog unattended
with the Ricochet. Put the
toys well out of reach of
your dog when you are
not supervising.
I first saw this toy – actually, a set of two – at a trade show. I had no clue what they did, but they didn’t look that interesting, either.
But then a company representative approached and asked if I knew what the toys did. “Nope!” I replied. “Show me!” He depressed a hidden button on one, and it emitted some chiming notes. Then he pressed the button on the other egg and it, too, chimed – and then started making some electronic chirping sounds. “The toys are paired through a Bluetooth connection,” he explained. “One makes an intermittent noise until it is jostled; then it goes silent and the other egg starts making a noise. Once your dog figures out how they work, you can put the eggs up to 30 feet apart from each other and your dog can have fun running from one to the other!”
Okay, now I was intrigued. I know many dogs like to play with toys that make electronic sounds, such as the Wobble Wag Giggle Ball. The concept of a toy consisting of two pieces that take turns interacting with your dog – that’s more than twice the fun! I couldn’t wait for my dogs to try the Ricochet.
THE RICOCHET EXPERIENCE
The toys are meant to be enjoyed by one dog at a time, and in fact, don’t work well when more than one dog is in the game at the same time. The sounds they make “ricochet” from one egg to the other when the noisy one is moved; if more than one dog is playing, the bouncing of the sound from one egg to the other can’t be predicted or chased.
We gave the Ricochet to six different dogs to play with; each was intrigued by the noises the toys made and intuitively nudged the toys with their noses or paws. The bigger dogs all tried to pick up the toys in their mouths and crack them open; play with these toys has to be supervised and sometimes redirected. (My large dogs could definitely bite open the toys if permitted.) But even our six-pound test dog enjoyed pushing the toys around.
Another reason to join your dog in playing with the Ricochet toys: At some point, every dog would fixate on the toy closest to them, disregarding its silence and the increasingly frantic tones of the other toy. That’s when you have to step in, taking away the one they are fixating on and getting them to listen for the chirping of the other toy. “Oh, right!” the dog will seem to say, tearing out of the room to find the other one. Then you can quickly hide the one you took away, so your dog can have fun looking for it when it starts chirping again.
The length of time that our test dogs played with the toys varied by temperament. A 6-year-old female Golden Retriever would have played with the toys until they were dead. My 12-year-old mixed-breed male, Otto, grasped the game very quickly – but lost interest the moment I stopped actively encouraging him to leave the non-chirping toy and look for the one that was making noise. All the other dogs were in between.
PRODUCT DETAILS
The toys each are about four inches long and made with a hard plastic case; the ends are covered with a softer, rubbery substance that keeps the toys from making a horrendous clatter as a dog knocks them about.
The toys can be turned off by pressing a hidden button on each egg. If you don’t turn them off, they will occasionally chirp, finally turning themselves off after 60 minutes without motion.
Each egg requires three AAA batteries. PetSafe says the batteries will last for about a month of daily use. The Ricochet comes with a one-year warranty when purchased new from an authorized seller. PetSafe offers a satisfaction guarantee, returning your purchase price (less shipping cost) if you return the toy within 45 days.
Long-time WDJ contributor Mary Straus and I are working on some articles about the cases of canine dilated cardiomyopathy that have been discussed in every dog-related setting for many months now. One of the next issues of WDJ will contain the first of the pieces that we have been collaborating on. But I just thought I would share something interesting that I noticed in the process of gathering information from various pet food companies.
We wanted to see what sort of response a consumer might get
from writing to pet food companies about a problem with their foods. We went to
the websites of 39 pet food companies and looked for email addresses to send a note
to, and found, to our surprise, that only seven listed any kind of email
address. Instead, the majority of companies offer a web form for consumers to
fill out – you know, the kind of thing where you fill in your name, email
address, perhaps phone number, and then a comment/question, and then hit
“submit.”
Why did I find this interesting? Because it leaves the
consumer with no way to prove they had ever sent a letter or question to the
company! Or provide them with a dated copy of the letter or question they sent!
My letter to pet food companies
This is the letter I sent to the 39 companies:
“Hello, I am trying to gather information about the response of pet food companies to the FDA’s announcements/updates about the apparent increase in cases of canine DCM, especially in dogs who have been fed diets containing peas and other legumes, potatoes, and sweet potatoes.
Your
company was among those whose products were named in reports to the FDA by
consumers as being potentially implicated in their dogs’ disease.
Would
you please tell me if or how your company has chosen to respond to the news of
this issue? Have you made any changes to any of your formulas? If so,
what were those changes, and to which/how many of your products?
If
you have not made any changes to your formulas, could you explain your
justification for this?
If you have already released a pertinent response, could you please direct me to or send me a copy of that statement?”
Responses to my inqueries
I received responses from 25 of the 39 companies. Now, take
this with a grain of salt, because I made a custom email address for the
companies to respond to, and it’s possible that at least some of the companies wrote back because the email address clearly
identified the inquiry I sent them as being from Whole Dog Journal (InquiryFromWholeDogJournal@gmail.com).
Also, within a few days, five companies sent me personalized responses, based
on the fact that my inquiry had been forwarded to someone at the company that
knew me, either from manufacturing site tours or meetings at pet product trade
shows or something.
Also, I received phone calls from representatives of three
companies, each of whom I had met personally at some point in the past. My cell
phone number was present in the letter I sent to each company, but only people
with whom I had spoken in years past actually called me to discuss the letter I
sent.
I received what appeared to be automatically generated responses
from 24 companies – the kind of email that says, “We got your note, we’ll get
back to you within 48 hours (or some such).” And like I said, one company’s
representative called me right away, and two more called me within a few days,
and about five more responded within days with a personalized response. But two
weeks later, six of the companies who responded with these automatic responses
still have not gotten back to me. At least (most of them) provided toll-free
phone numbers to call if I was interested in getting a quicker response.
Of the 19 companies whose responses I have not yet
described, a few were so generic as to be completely useless, or suggested that
I call the company instead. For example:
“We would be happy to speak to you about this matter… Our
Customer Care Specialists may be reached at 888-XXX-XXXX.”
How about this one? It sounds like the company is addressing
my inquiry, because it uses some of the same words in my inquiry, but it
doesn’t answer anything I asked! “We
appreciate you bringing your concern regarding the canine Dilated
Cardiomyopathy and we are happy to answer your inquiry. Please know that as a leader in
pet nutrition, we stand behind the safety and quality of all our foods and meet
or exceed every major food quality and safety standard including those issued
by the FDA, USDA (U.S. Department of Agriculture) and AAFCO. We also have not
been contacted by the FDA regarding any cases involving our products.” (The
response was longer, but didn’t address any of the questions that I asked.)
By the way, of the three companies whose
representatives (including two company owners) who called me in response to my
inquiry, none had spoken with anyone from the FDA regarding the cases of DCM
that had reportedly implicated or mentioned their products. The two company
owners I spoke with told me that they had tried to reach someone at the FDA,
but had zero success.
I’m happy to report that a few companies did respond directly to my questions. The rest tended to refer me to statements on the company websites that they had already prepared in response to the issue well ahead of my inquiry. Those statements, of course, don’t necessarily answer my questions directly.
Try It Yourself
I’ll be trying to reach the companies again via their
toll-free numbers and will report on whether that effort is more or less
successful.
I will admit a bias toward companies that have phone
numbers on their labels and websites and email addresses on at least their
websites, to make it as easy as possible for consumers to reach them in case of
a dog food-related health issue. And of course, my bias is even stronger toward
companies who are staffed with knowledgeable people who can respond
appropriately and directly to inquiries in a timely manner. Don’t assume for a
second that this rules out all the so-called boutique pet food companies, or qualifies all the giant pet food
stalwarts.
Try it yourself! Write to or call your favorite dog food company and ask something simple, such as “Have you always included taurine as a supplement in your dog diets? Do you do so now?” or “Can you tell me how much taurine, or cysteine and methionine, is in (name of food you feed your dog)?”
If you ask the latter question – and they have an
answer! – make sure you ask also whether the amount is expressed “as fed” or on
a “dry matter basis.”
