Barking is normal for puppies but there are some things you can do to keep the behavior from becoming a nuisance. Credit: Jecapix | Getty Images
Do you have a new puppy who won’t stop barking? Although some barking is completely normal for most breeds and breed types, when puppy barking becomes excessive it’s important to understand why your puppy is barking and how to reduce barking the right way.
Why Do Puppies Bark?
Most puppies bark from time to time. However, there are a few different reasons why they do so. Indeed, research shows that barking is context dependent meaning that dogs bark based on factors such as their environment, emotional state, and specific situations (Pongrácz et. al, 2010). Reasons puppies bark can include:
Attention-seeking Barking
This can happen when you disengage from playing with or giving a puppy attention. It’s often paired with jumping up, nipping, or pawing. Barking for attention can also occur when you leave the room or leave the puppy home alone.
Fear or Alert Barking
Fear or alert barking happens in response to situations such as hearing an unfamiliar or loud noise, seeing strangers or visitors to the home, or seeing other dogs. Some puppies also bark at inanimate or moving objects such as cars, bicycles, and skateboards.
Frustration Barking
Barking due to frustration usually happens when a puppy is contained by some kind of barrier it cannot get through, such as a play pen, crate, or baby gate. This can also happen when a puppy is on lead and cannot go where they want to.
Understanding the reason for your puppy barking will help you determine the best way to address and prevent the barking.
How To Stop a Puppy From Barking: Start With Prevention
The best way to stop your puppy from barking is to ensure you are meeting your pup’s physical, social, and emotional needs. This can be achieved by ensuring your puppy receives:
Age-appropriate enrichment
Sniffing activities
Short daily positive reinforcement training sessions
A consistent routine for feeding and other activities to help reduce uncertainty
It’s also important that you avoid accidentally reinforcing barking. Many puppy owners inadvertently reward behavior they don’t like. For example, giving their puppy pats and attention when the puppy jumps up on them. Avoid giving your puppy any attention (eye contact, talking to them, or picking them up) as a consequence of barking. This will help to ensure your puppy doesn’t learn that barking results in something they want.
How To Get a Puppy to Stop Barking for Attention
If your puppy is barking for attention, follow these steps to work on reducing the barking:
Ensure your puppy’s needs are being met: Dogs are social, intelligent animals who need adequate daily physical exercise as well as opportunities to sniff, explore, and problem-solve. They also need social interaction and companionship.
Teach quiet behavior: If your puppy is barking, wait for a brief pause (2-3 seconds) and mark and reward with a high value treat and attention. Done consistently, this teaches your puppy that quiet behavior (not barking) is reinforcing. Gradually increase the duration of quiet before reinforcement.
It’s also critical that any barking is ignored and not accidently rewarded with attention (e.g. eye contact). Consistency is key, so remember to keep meeting your puppy’s needs, ignoring barking, and reinforce quiet behavior as often as possible.
Helping a Puppy Who Barks Due to Fear or Anxiety
To help a puppy who is barking because they are afraid or anxious we need to change the puppy’s underlying emotional response to the trigger. If you’ve determined your puppy is barking due to fear or anxiety, follow these steps:
Do NOT punish barking due to fear or anxiety as this can increase the level of fear/anxiety and make the problem worse.
Avoid flooding the puppy—do not over-expose them to the trigger in an effort to “make them get used to it.”
Gradually expose the puppy to the trigger at a distance the puppy tolerates well. Slowly work on decreasing the distance to the trigger over time (desensitization).
Pair triggers with positive experiences such as high value treats to work on creating a positive association (counter-conditioning).
Utilize management strategies outside of training sessions such as:
Visual barriers to help block visual access to triggers
Safe spaces to retreat to if the puppy is feeling scared or anxious
Puppies who were not well socialized to a range of sounds, surfaces, people, and environments are more likely to develop fear or anxiety in response to these things in future. The good news is that puppies are always learning and fear can usually be successfully resolved. However, when fear has a genetic basis, rather than being a learned behavior, it can be much harder to modify.
Managing Frustration and Barrier Barking
If your puppy is barking due to frustration, you can work to address it by taking the following steps:
Reinforce calm behavior (such as sitting quietly) at gates and when in the crate/puppy pen.
Reward calm and quiet behavior by opening doors/pens.
Avoid opening doors/pens while the puppy is barking (to avoid reinforcing the behavior).
Use differential reinforcement of incompatible behavior (DRI)—rewarding the puppy for doing something else instead—to reinforce a behavior that’s incompatible with barking, such as sitting quietly, during the times the puppy tends to bark.
What NOT To Do When Your Puppy is Barking
Remember, if your puppy is barking:
Don’t yell at your puppy.
Don’t use aversive collars.
Don’t spray water.
Don’t scruff or intimidate.
Don’t expect instant results.
Barking is a normal behavior and serves a purpose for your puppy. Punishment can increase stress, fear, and anxiety which can increase barking in the long-term. Focus on addressing the root cause of the barking and using positive reinforcement to teach quiet behavior.
As a note, while puppy barking is normal, in some cases it can signal underlying issues such as separation anxiety, noise phobias, pain, discomfort, or even lack of sleep. If the barking is escalating or your neighbors are complaining, it’s a good idea to have a check-up at the vet and, if a health issue is ruled out, consult a qualified behavior professional. The good news is that most puppies grow out of excessive barking with guidance, as emotional regulation improves as puppies grow up and mature. Consistency, reinforcing calm behavior, and meeting your puppies needs are important steps to address puppy barking. Remember, your puppy isn’t trying to annoy you, they’re just learning how to live in our world.
Teaching “Quiet” the Right Way
Research shows that counter-conditioning can successfully reduce excessive barking in dogs (Carrero & Bennett, 2025). To help reduce barking in your puppy, you can teach them the “quiet” cue. This involves consistently capturing quiet behavior and rewarding it with high value outcomes such as treats and praise. Next, you pair silence with the word “quiet” and follow with reinforcement. Repeat over and over and your puppy will learn to associate the word “quiet” with positive things and will offer quiet behavior when asked. Then you can use the cue to stop barking when needed.
Dogs allergic to chicken in their food can hang out with their feathered friends but not eat the chickens. Credit: Angela Medler | Getty Images
Chicken is one of the most widely used proteins in commercial dog foods, treats, and supplements, which makes it both widely consumed and one of the most common food allergies in dogs.
A chicken allergy in dogs does not present as an immediate reaction in the way people commonly think of allergies, such as sudden swelling or anaphylaxis. Instead, it is most often a delayed hypersensitivity reaction driven by the immune system’s response to one or more of the proteins found in chicken.
Over time, a dog’s immune system may begin to incorrectly identify chicken proteins as harmful invaders, triggering a chronic inflammatory reaction that often manifests in the skin, gastrointestinal tract, ears, or a combination of these systems. Because chicken is so frequently used ingredient in canine diets, there is a high chance of frequent and repeated exposure, which in turn can increase the likelihood that a sensitive dog will eventually develop an adverse immune response.
Signs of a Chicken Allergy in Dogs
Signs of a chicken allergy in dogs tend to be chronic, recurring, and frustratingly non-specific. One of the most common presentations is persistent itching that does not seem to follow a seasonal pattern. Dogs may scratch, lick, chew, or rub their skin year-round with a particular focus on the paws, face, stomach, and ears. Recurrent ear infections are especially suggestive of an underlying food allergy, including chicken, particularly when they return shortly after treatment or never fully resolve. Skin symptoms may include redness, hair loss, hot spots, or secondary bacterial and yeast infections that arise because the skin barrier has been compromised by chronic inflammation.
Gastrointestinal signs are another common but sometimes overlooked indicator of a chicken allergy. Dogs may experience chronic loose stools, intermittent diarrhea, excessive gas, or vomiting. In some cases, these signs are mild and inconsistent, which can make them easy to dismiss as stress-related or from your dog snarfing down something he shouldn’t. However, when digestive symptoms persist over weeks or months or do not improve with routine interventions, a food allergy becomes a more likely explanation. Some dogs exhibit both skin and gastrointestinal symptoms, while some may only show only one, further complicating the identification of the underlying cause.
How Does the Vet Know My Dog’s Allergy Is to Chicken?
Determining whether chicken is an allergen requires careful evaluation, as many dogs with suspected allergies are exposed to multiple proteins simultaneously. Environmental allergies, such as those to pollen, dust mites, or mold, can cause nearly identical skin and ear symptoms. Blood tests and saliva tests marketed for food-allergy detection are widely available but have a limited reliability and are not considered diagnostic. The gold standard for diagnosing a chicken allergy in dogs remains a properly conducted elimination diet followed by a controlled food reintroduction.
This diet must be fed exclusively for a sufficient period, typically eight to 12 weeks, with absolutely no additional food, treats, flavored medications, table scraps, or supplements that could introduce chicken proteins. Even small exposures can invalidate the results, as the immune system only needs minimal contact to remain activated.
During this time, symptoms are closely monitored for improvement or resolution. If a dog’s symptoms significantly improve or resolve during the elimination phase, chicken is then reintroduced in a controlled manner to confirm the diagnosis. This step is critical, as improvement alone does not prove that chicken was the cause.
How Soon Will Chicken Allergy Symptoms Stop?
When chicken is reintroduced, dogs with a true chicken allergy typically experience a noticeable return of symptoms within days or weeks. Once this reaction occurs, chicken is removed again, and symptoms should gradually subside. This process, though time-consuming, is the most accurate way to determine whether chicken is truly responsible for your dog’s allergies.
Hypoallergenic diets often include ingredients such as chicken fat or hydrolyzed chicken because these components are fundamentally different, from an immunological standpoint, from intact chicken protein, which is what triggers a true chicken allergy.
Can Dogs With a Chicken Allergy Eat Chicken Fat?
Chicken fat, when properly rendered and purified, contains no intact protein, which means there are no antigens present to stimulate an allergic response. As a result, chicken fat is used as a source of energy, and for palatability, even in diets formulated for dogs with confirmed chicken allergies. Similarly, hydrolyzed chicken protein has been enzymatically broken down into tiny fragments that are small enough to not activate the immune system.
Because the immune system can no longer recognize these fragments as “chicken,” they do not provoke an allergic response, even in dogs that react strongly to whole chicken protein. For this reason, both chicken fat and hydrolyzed chicken are widely used in hypoallergenic diets and considered safe and effective tools for managing food allergies or for performing elimination diets to identify an allergen.
Is My Dog Allergic to Chicken Eggs, too?
A common question among dog owners is whether a chicken allergy also means that a dog is allergic to eggs. While chicken meat and eggs come from the same animal, many of the proteins differ, so an allergy to one does not automatically guarantee an allergy to the other. Some dogs with a chicken allergy can tolerate eggs without an issue, while others may react to both. Egg allergies do occur, but they are less commonly reported than chicken meat allergies. The immune system’s recognition of specific protein structures determines whether cross-reactivity occurs, and these proteins differ between muscle tissue and egg proteins.
Living with a dog that has a chicken allergy requires diligence but is entirely manageable with the right approach. Advancements in pet nutrition have made a wide range of alternative proteins readily available, including pork, fish, venison, rabbit, kangaroo, and plant-based options.
Many dogs thrive once the offending protein is removed, often showing improvements in not only allergy symptoms, but also in energy level, coat quality, and overall wellbeing. With proper identification and dietary management, dogs with chicken allergies can live comfortable healthy, and symptom-free lives.
The best dog ramps offer gentle inclines, good traction, and enough support to stay stable while in use. Credit: Jae Thomas
My dog’s veterinary physical therapist has always told me that it’s better to teach a dog to use a ramp before they need it, not when they need it. Getting one of the best dog ramps before your dog needs it will ensure they can hop in and out of the car, on and off the bed, and more for a long time to come.
Dog ramps are ideal for young puppies with open growth plates, injured dogs who need to reduce joint strain, aging pups who are losing mobility, small dogs who can’t reach tall places, long-backed dogs who are prone to injuries, and dogs who are too big for their owners to safely lift.
But before you buy a dog ramp, there are some safety measures to take. Here’s how to pick the best dog ramp for your dog.
Traits We Want in the Best Dog Ramps
Length: Longer dog ramps have gentler inclines so, generally, the longer the better. A good rule of thumb is to select a ramp that will offer between 18 and 27 degrees of incline, based on the height you need.
Width: The width of a dog ramp should be at least a few inches wider than the widest part of your dog’s shoulders and hips. This ensures they feel comfortable walking up and down it normally and don’t need to squish their gait to fit.
Weight support: A ramp that doesn’t support your dog’s weight will be wobbly, unstable, and could collapse under them, potentially causing injury and/or an aversion to using the ramp. Ensure you choose a ramp that offers enough weight support for your dog’s size.
Surface material: Dog ramps should have lots of traction. A slippery dog ramp will likely cause injury, negating the injury prevention perks of using a ramp regularly. Choose an option with rubber, textured carpet, or other grippy surfaces.
Portability (for dog ramps for cars): If you’re using a dog ramp for your car, it should be portable and light enough to easily unfold, fold, and load back in the car.
This ramp is the longest we tested, which allows for a large variety of gentle angles. Intended for loading in and out of the back of the car, this is a wide, sturdy option for medium and large breed dogs.
The PetSafe Happy Ride ramp is lighter and more portable than the EveryYay ramp but it’s a bit shorter and narrower, so very large dog breeds may have trouble using it. However, it’s narrow enough to use as a dog ramp for side doors, as long as the floor height isn’t above 24 inches.
Though the carpet top piece isn’t the best quality, this budget-friendly step is a great middle ground between no assistance and a full ramp. It’s also deep enough for most medium and large dogs to use comfortably.
It can be difficult to find indoor ramps that are both long enough and wide enough for large dogs. The DoggoRamps Large Bed Ramp is ideal for big dog owners, as it is 70 inches long, 18 inches wide, and holds up to 200 pounds. It also includes a rail that will keep your dog feeling secure as they get on and off the bed.
This carpet-lined pick is a good indoor ramp for assisting small dogs onto couches and other low furniture. Because it is not that long, it’s not the best option for steeper furniture.
Though impeccably well made, the Doggo Ramps step ramp was a bit too shallow for my medium-sized tester dogs but it could be a good choice for households with active small or toy breeds.
Best Dog Ramp for Cars: EveryYay Portable Pet Ramp
Although it may be a bit heavy for some, the EveryYay Portable Pet Ramp is a sturdy, functional option for dogs of all sizes. Credit: Jae Thomas
The EveryYay Portable Pet Ramp is long, sturdy, portable, and wide enough for even large dogs. Longer ramps provide a gentler incline for dogs and this 72-inch-long dog car ramp is long enough to reach into tall SUVs and trucks without making a steep, unstable angle for your dog.
I love that this ramp has a safety tether that you can clip onto the rear latch hook of an SUV or hatchback vehicle. That extra layer of safety means you don’t have to worry about the ramp slipping out from underneath your dog (especially important for the safety of injured dogs or senior dogs).
This ramp folds in half and locks for storage, has a carrying handle, and weighs 17.6 pounds. It’s not the most lightweight dog car ramp, so folks who aren’t able to lift much weight may reconsider this as their top option. However, what it lacks in lightweight design, it makes up for in sturdiness, width, and length. It’s long enough, wide enough, and has a large enough weight capacity (200 pounds) for most dogs.
My tester dogs also appreciated the surface on this ramp, which is a mix between carpet and plastic. It was overall very grippy and didn’t cause slipping.
Because of its width, this ramp does not fit as a dog car ramp for side doors in most vehicles.
Best Dog Ramp for Smaller Vehicles: PetSafe Happy Ride Foldable Dog Car Ramp
The PetSafe Happy Ride Foldable Dog Car Ramp is lightweight and portable but may be too short for taller vehicles. Credit: Jae Thomas
The PetSafe Happy Ride Foldable Dog Car Ramp is a good pick for lower-to-the-ground vehicles like sedans, hatchbacks, and some mid-size SUVs. The shorter 62-inch length makes this ramp too steep for most full sized SUVs and trucks, even if you are using it to load your dog in and out of the back of the car.
This ramp works safely for heights up to 24 inches. If your car falls within that height range, this is also a good pick for a dog ramp for side doors. It’s narrow enough to sit on the seat in most vehicles, even if you don’t have a ton of door clearance.
This ramp was slightly too steep to use in the side door of our Ford Bronco Sport but would be a good side door option for lower hatchbacks and sedans. Credit: Jae Thomas
The surface on this ramp isn’t as supportive as some of the other options since it’s harder and thinner. It has a sandpaper-like quality and if the ramp is set at too steep an angle, dogs tend to splay their toes for traction when going down. We didn’t have any issues with our tester dogs going up this ramp.
This ramp is also a good option as a dog ramp for stairs. Just set it over short sets of stairs indoors or outdoors if you have a senior or injured dog who needs help navigating steps. It’s sturdy, only weighs 10 pounds, and is easy to fold, unfold, and move around.
Best Dog Ramp for Couches: Frisco Plastic Easy Step Cat & Dog Stair
If your dog just needs a bit of help to reach the couch, the Frisco Plastic Easy Step Cat & Dog Ramp is a good choice. Credit: Jae Thomas
If your dog is fairly active and just needs a boost up to their favorite spot on the couch, the Frisco Plastic Easy Step Cat & Dog Ramp is a good option. It’s deep enough for most dogs to use it comfortably, though it does have a 50-pound weight limit. With shallower steps, my tester dogs tended to put their front paws on it, then jump onto the furniture over the step, negating the use of the step to help their rear ends.
The carpet piece on the top of this step is removable and machine washable for easy cleaning, though it isn’t the best quality and had frayed edges straight out of the box.
If your dog doesn’t need a full ramp, or if you have a very small dog who just needs help with getting onto tall couches or chairs, this is the way to go.
Best Indoor Dog Ramp for Large Dogs: DoggoRamps Large Bed Ramp
When it comes to indoor dog ramps, the DoggoRamps Large Bed Ramp is sturdy enough and wide enough for dogs up to 200 pounds. Credit: Jae Thomas
The DoggoRamps Large Bed Ramp is the best option for helping big dogs on and off the bed. It offers 70 inches of walkway space, an 18-inches width, and holds dogs up to 200 pounds. It can be used for beds from 20 inches up to 35 inches tall and the long length provides a gentle incline for older dogs.
This ramp features safety rails at the top and on one side, so your dog doesn’t feel insecure while going up and down. The Pawgrip surface is rubbery and offers secure grip, even for large, heavy dogs. There was a small nick in the rubbery surface of my tester unit, likely from transit, but if your dog has very long nails, it could also damage the surface.
This ramp is impeccably handmade of real wood and comes in five different finishes so you can match the furniture in your bedroom. It’s pricey, but is a sturdy, high-quality bed ramp option for large dogs, short and heavy breeds (like Bulldogs and Basset Hounds), or for households with multiple dogs.
My tester dogs took to this ramp easily because of the sturdy base and wide, grippy surface. It also comes with a safety rope to keep it from sliding away from the bed.
Best Indoor Dog Ramp for Small Dogs: EveryYay Rise & Climb Indoor Pet Ramp
The EveryYay Rise & Climb Indoor Pet Ramp is easy to store but works best for small dogs and shorter furniture. Credit: Jae Thomas
The EveryYay Rise & Climb Indoor Pet Ramp is a good option for smaller dogs needing to get on and off of couches and other furniture inside. It’s collapsible, so it easily fits under the bed, under the couch, or in the closet when not in use. It also locks into a folded position for easier storage.
The length of this ramp is only about 40 inches, so it’s best suited for the three lower height settings to make the incline easier on your dog, though it technically can be used at a fourth height of 24 inches. The textured carpet on this ramp is grippy enough for small and light dogs (think dogs under 40 pounds). With larger, heavier dogs, we noticed some paw splaying and a bit more slippage due to the extra weight.
Other Dog Ramps We Tested
Doggo Ramps Step-Ramp
The Doggo Ramps Step-Ramp is well made but its size makes it awkward for many dogs to use. Credit: Jae Thomas
The Doggo Ramps Step-Ramp is beautifully made with real wood, handles for carrying, a storage cubby compartment, and a rubbery surface that offers good traction for dogs. However, I found this ramp to be a bit awkwardly sized. It requires a six inch jump up and down it, but is also only 14 inches deep, so it’s not quite big enough for dogs over about 20 pounds, depending on their height and length.
This could still be a good option for homes with fairly active small dogs if you’re looking to reduce the strain on their back caused by full height jumping (especially for the long/low breeds like Dachshunds and Corgis). Or, if you’re limited on space and need something compact, this is could be an option if your dog is on the smaller side.
With so many dry dog foods on the market, how do you choose which one is right for your dog? Credit: Pavel Herasimau | Getty Images
Deciding what dog food to buy for your pet is something many pet owners struggle with. Today’s shoppers are overwhelmed with myriad options, each with their own flashy packaging, added ingredients for health, and claims for why they are different from all the other brands on the shelves.
On top of that, every dog is their own individual. From palatability to food intolerances, not every diet is going to work well for every dog. So how do you decide?
Many people find themselves reaching for a familiar brand, as brand trust is a huge component in the pet market. When we buy a dog food, we are placing an immense amount of trust in whatever brand we select to provide a safe and healthy product for our beloved companion(s).
Many people continue to feed the same brand the dog’s breeder or the shelter recommended while others turn to their veterinarian for advice when they want to switch up their dog’s diet. Any of these approaches might lead to a perfectly suitable food that both you and your pup are happy with. However, they can just as easily result in a diet that does not necessarily fit well with your dog’s individual needs.
The reality is that there is no single “best” dry dog food for all dogs. Nutritional needs vary based on life stage, activity level, metabolism, breed size, body condition, and health history. Your dog’s needs are also likely to change during their lifetime, so if you notice issues arising, a change in diet may be a good starting place. Finding the best food for your dog requires looking beyond marketing claims and understanding what actually matters in dry food formulation. We hope that the process we used (see “How To Pick the Best Dry Dog Food for Your Dog” below) to select our top recommended dry dog foods can help you in this process!
Ingredients:
Salmon, Chicken meal, oatmeal, barley, whole grain sorghum, millet, brown rice, white rice... View all
Every complete and balanced dry dog food must carry a nutritional adequacy statement referencing standards set forth by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). This statement indicates whether the product is formulated for growth, growth and reproduction, adult maintenance, or all-life stages. Foods labeled for growth, growth and reproduction, or all life stages meet the higher nutritional demands of puppies and pregnant/nursing females, including higher levels of protein, fat, calcium, and phosphorus. An all life stages diet is safe for adults but may provide more calories than some sedentary dogs require.
Large-breed puppies, in particular, require carefully controlled calcium and phosphorus levels to support proper skeletal development, so look for product labeled formulated for growth including growth of large breed dogs to ensure proper growth of dogs expected to be 70 pounds or larger.
Adult maintenance dry foods are formulated specifically to meet the needs of mature dogs whose growth phases are complete and nutrient requirements are lower. These formulas often contain slightly lower levels of protein and fat, making them less energy dense than diets designed for growth but some adult maintenance foods are still relatively high in protein or fat, so it is important to look beyond the label claim and review the guaranteed analysis and calorie content.
For less active or overweight adult dogs, choosing a formula with moderate protein levels and controlled fat can help maintain an ideal body condition. Comparing calories per cup is particularly helpful when looking for a diet that fits your dog’s energy needs, as you still want to feed them enough bulk to help them feel satisfied.
While there is not an established maximum protein value for dog food, dogs can eat and thrive on foods that contain significantly more protein than the minimum required amount. This high level of protein is not necessary for dogs and foods with high levels of protein tend to be considerably more expensive than their lower-protein counterparts. That being said, some dogs, such as working dogs or canine athletes involved in endurance activities, may do better on high protein foods to support their higher metabolism and muscle mass.
Ingredients:
Whitefish, Potatoes, Chicken Broth, Water, Chicken Liver, Chicken, Pea Flour, Dried Egg Product... View all
The AAFCO minimum amount of crude fat that must be in dog food is 4.95% as-fed for an adult maintenance food and 7.65% as fed for puppy foods. Low fat dry dog foods are typically selected for dogs that are sedentary, diabetic, or overweight, those that have or are prone to pancreatitis, or those recovering from medical conditions.
Our selections fall above the required minimum fat level for adult maintenance dry dog food but are not appropriate for puppies. Low-fat options make up for the reduced fat in the formula by increasing the concentration of one of the other macronutrients: carbohydrates, protein, or both. This is where you should take your own dog’s biological needs into account when choosing a low fat dog food—does your pup do better on a higher-protein or higher-carbohydrate food?
Ingredients:
Burbank Potato, Norkotah Potato, Ocean Fish Meal, Tomato Pomace, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), Dicalcium Phosphate, Choline Chloride, Calcium Propionate... View all
While there is no official regulatory definition of a “limited ingredient” diet, these formulas generally feature a reduced number of primary protein and carbohydrate sources. Some manufacturers use just 5-6 major ingredients for their foods while others contain 10-12 or more.
Limited ingredient dry dog foods are typically chosen for dogs with suspected food sensitivities or when conducting an elimination diet. The goal is to simplify the diet, making it easier to identify and avoid ingredients that may trigger digestive upset or immune responses. Fewer major ingredients can help clarify which components are well-tolerated, so we tried to select diets with as few major ingredients as possible.
Grain-free dry dog foods remain a popular choice among pet parents, though their rise in popularity has been accompanied by ever-evolving research and discussion. Because kibble production requires starch for structure, grain-free formulas replace traditional grains with alternative carbohydrate sources such as peas, lentils, chickpeas, potatoes, and sweet potatoes.
Since U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) advisory warning of a possible link between grain-free foods and dietary-induced dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), grain-free diets have been steeped in controversy. While no definitive causal link has been established, some experts continue to examine the role of heavy legume inclusion and amino balance in these cases. Current understanding suggests that while grain-free diets are not inherently harmful, they are not inherently superior either. They may be appropriate for dogs with confirmed grain sensitivities, though true grain allergies in dogs are uncommon.
Pet food manufacturers will often use a high inclusion of legumes as they can serve as both a carbohydrate source as well as an inexpensive source of protein in dog diets. However, the amino acid profiles of plant proteins are often not as optimal for dogs compared to animal-based proteins. When evaluating grain-free options, we advise that animal proteins remain the primary ingredients and that special attention be paid to identify ingredient splitting to try to minimize the impact that legumes play in the diet.
Ingredients:
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Oatmeal, Barley, Brown Rice, Peas, Dried Plain Beet Pulp, Chicken Fat... View all
Our budget-friendly foods are not the least expensive on the market, but that is because the least expensive diets available do not meet many of the requirements needed to be on the WDJ approved dry dog food list. The cheapest foods on the market tend to be heavy in legume usage and often contain unnamed animal protein and fat sources, such as “meat and bone meal,” “animal by-product meal,” and “animal fat.” Because of this, we tried to balance quality and price to provide you with budget-friendly foods we feel good about recommending.
Alternative protein dry dog foods in this article encompass vegetarian, vegan, and insect-based formulations. These diets may be selected for dogs with multiple confirmed animal protein allergies or for owners who have ethical or environmental concerns about traditional animal agriculture. At present, most alternative protein dog foods are formulated for adult maintenance and are not appropriate for growing puppies.
How To Pick the Best Dry Dog Food for Your Dog
When picking a dog food, the logical starting point is to evaluate the manufacturer behind the product to see if they align with your values and expectations. With hundreds of pet food companies and thousands of dry formulas available, quality standards differ widely. Responsible companies invest in qualified nutrition expertise, maintain strong quality control standards, and are transparent about ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices. Some conduct feeding trials to validate their formulas, while others rely solely on computer formulation and chemical analysis to meet nutrient standards. While ingredient lists are important, the company’s commitment to formulation integrity and safety is equally critical.
Once you have found the manufacturers you align with, your options will be significantly narrowed. You can then begin to select the best candidates for dry foods for your specific dog, such as a diet for active dogs, seniors, large-breed puppies, those with sensitive stomachs, etc. that also fits well with your budget. When selecting any diet, you should keep the following considerations in mind:
When shopping for any food, our preference is always for a product that contains meat and/or meat meal in the top two ingredients. Meat ingredients in the top five or more ingredient spots are even better.
We prefer legumes (chickpeas, lentils, peas) to be used in minor roles and not have their impact in the diet minimized through ingredient splitting.
If the food you are selecting contains functional ingredients meant to convey a health benefit, such as added omega fatty acids, probiotics, glucosamine, additional vitamins, etc., look for the levels on the guaranteed analysis. This indicates they have been tested for and are present and verifiable in the formula.
Search Our Dry Dog Food Database
If you’re trying to find the ideal dry food for your dog, we suggest checking out our list of Approved Dry Dog Foods (available to WDJ subscribers). This year, we not only updated our list to include more than 1,200 individual dry dog foods, but we also enhanced the database itself. You can now compare specific products, save your favorites, and share your search results with others along with filtering your search by company, ingredients, price range, and other criteria.
When selecting the best diet for your dog, keep in mind that there is no one-size-fits-all recommendation for dog food. Feed each dog the food that suits them best and consult your veterinarian or a nutritionist if you have any questions.
Massage and gentle stretching may be helpful for a dog experiencing muscles spasm or twitching. Credit: Katja Forster | Getty Images
What Dog Tremors Look Like
There is a wide range in how dog tremors appear. Your dog might have just a small twitch in one spot, or the spasms could be widespread and affect a large area of her body. These twitches can be slow or fast, and your dog might not seem to notice them or might be upset and painful or unable to move normally.
Mild tremors that don’t bother your dog are usually nothing to worry about, but tremors that persist, worsen over time, or bother your dog could be more serious. Dog tremors are an emergency if your dog is lethargic, vomiting, nonresponsive, or recently had puppies.
A muscle cramp—the severe painful tightening (contraction) of the muscle—is a severe muscle spasm. Your dog may even cry out in pain. Cramps are often due to overuse of muscle, an electrolyte imbalance, or dehydration. As above, if the cramp doesn’t subside quickly or if the dog is lethargic, vomiting, nonresponse, or recently had puppies, contact your veterinarian.
If you have any concerns, take a video of what your dog is doing. A clear video in good lighting is extremely useful for your veterinarian to observe exactly what you saw and can help in figuring out why it is happening.
Why Is My Dog Twitching or Shaking?
Twitching, tremors, and spasms are involuntary movements of your dog’s muscles. There are many different causes for them, but the result is that muscle fibers contract erratically on their own.
Reasons why your dog might have tremors or muscle spasms include:
Puppies sometimes have muscle spasms while sleeping. This is because their nervous system and muscles are still developing. If your puppy is otherwise happy and healthy, there is usually nothing to worry about.
Senior dogs get fatigued more quickly than young adult dogs, partly because they tend to have less muscle as they age. Your senior dog might have mild muscle tremors after exercise that did not affect her when she was younger.
Toxins That Can Cause Dog Tremors
Many toxins can cause tremors. If your dog has or may have consumed any of these items and is showing muscle spasms, call your veterinarian or a pet poison hotline immediately:
Alcohol
Caffeine
Chocolate
Flea or tick medication overdose
Insecticides
Marijuana
Certain wild mushrooms
Pesticides and rodenticides
Raisins or grapes
Xylitol or birch sugar
Do not wait to see if the tremors go away. With possible toxin ingestion, things can quickly become life-threatening.
If your adult dog shows any other signs of illness that could be related to diabetes, offer her a snack and have her seen by a veterinarian.
Low Blood Calcium (Hypocalcemia)
Low blood calcium is most common in female dogs who have recently whelped a litter. If your dam is showing tremors and difficulty moving after giving birth, contact your veterinarian immediately. This is an emergency.
Idiopathic Tremors
Sometimes we can’t figure out why a dog has periodic twitching.
Dobermans, Boxers, Bulldogs, and Beagles seem predisposed to a mild head tremor that will go away if you distract your dog with attention, a treat, or a toy.
“Shaker syndrome” is an odd condition where small, often white dogs periodically have mild full-body tremors. It is usually managed with medication.
How Dog Muscle Spasms Are Treated
If your dog has a mild tremor but otherwise seems fine, encourage her to gently stretch the muscles in the area by luring her nose with a treat. You can also place a warm compress over the area to soothe the muscles if she has been exercising or gently massage the area if she enjoys that.
For persistent or severe tremors, schedule a vet visit. Take notes on any trends you noticed when or why your dog has spasms. Bring videos if possible.
Diagnostics can include bloodwork, urinalysis, and imaging such as X-rays or ultrasound. In more severe cases, you might go to a neurologist for an MRI or cerebral spinal fluid analysis.
Dog muscle spasm treatment will depend on why your dog is experiencing muscle spasms. Some of the options that might be appropriate for your dog include:
Warm her if she is cold
Cool her with ice packs if she is overheated or has an acute muscle injury, as directed by your vet
Massage and gentle stretching
Intravenous fluids for dehydration
Medicated fluids or injections to correct electrolyte and vitamin imbalances
Pain medication
Muscle relaxants
Anxiety medication
Insulin therapy for diabetic dogs
Note: Never give human medications without veterinary guidance. Many are unsafe for dogs.
Grand mal (tonic-clonic) seizures affect the entire body and cause your dog to lose consciousness. Focal seizures only impact part of your dog’s body and can be more difficult to identify.
If you’re not sure what you’re seeing, treat it as urgent. Keep your dog safe and away from stairs and contact your veterinarian with a video of the episode.
Dr. Andrea Lee and her young dog, BliZZard at the American Brittany Club National Specialty in 2025 going over the dog agility A-frame. Credit: Janice Barkby Brunner photo
Dog agility can greatly enhance the bond between owner and dog, and many agility handlers find training and competing quite addictive! Equipment can be expensive, but foundation and early training can happen in a large room of the home or a backyard with a few homemade jumps, a weave poles set, and perhaps a tunnel.
More advanced training requires that you can build a dog agility course to practice on. That means more equipment and longer, more complicated courses that need more space. Often, this kind of training takes place in dog-training facilities. You can absolutely start the sport on a budget, however. Most of us did!
How to Choose Safe Dog Agility Equipment
There are several categories of agility equipment, including jumps, weave poles, tunnels, tire jumps, a pause table, A-frame, dogwalk, teeter (or seesaw), and variations of jumps, like broad jumps and walls. You do not need everything, especially if you have facility where you can train, like a dog club or a lesson facility. What you do need is safe equipment for both you and your dog.
Recommended Agility Jumps
The greatest percentage of agility obstacles on any competition agility course are jumps. Jumps include sides with or without wings (wider sides built onto the jumps), a panel jump (a slat-type jump that looks like a solid barrier), and spread jumps of two poles (called a “double”) to three poles (called a triple) that require the dog be able to clear some horizontal distance. You may also see broad jumps (low, wide obstacles) and a wall jump, which appears solid and is wider than the panel jump. In some venues, you may encounter a table obstacle or a tire jump.
My Favorite Jumps: M.A.D. Agility has colored jump cups for each bar height, which makes it easy to set the bars correctly. I also have these jumps in my backyard because the weight the interior of their jumps to give their stanchions even more stability, even in windy conditions. Jumps run $150 to $400.
Budget Jumps: If you have access to basic tools, a store that sells PVC piping and fittings, and some elbow grease, you can build your own jumps. Jump cup strips are available through Clip & Go Agility, and they generously offer plans for wing and wingless jumps on their website.
My Favorite Agility Contact Equipment
This group of agility obstacles are the largest, heaviest, and most expensive. Contact equipment includes the A-frame, the dogwalk, and the teeter. Their correct performance requires the dog to place at least a portion of a paw in an end zone (usually defined by a contrasting color) at the end of the obstacle, demonstrating a controlled exit.
I am a fan of the Galican A-frame ($2,500 and available to ship to the USA through Run-It Ultimate Dog Agility Equipment in Canda) because it can be put on furniture sliders to move over turf, making course changes easy.
The Clip & Go dogwalk ($2,900) is my favorite dogwalk because it’s propped on wheels, and either end of the contact can easily be raised/lowered, making course changes easy. There is also little-to-no bounce to any part of the dog walk for even fast large breed dogs.
Any contact equipment in my backyard must have wheels for ease of course building and moving equipment to mow grass. Max 200, Clip & Go, and Galican have wheels either standard or can be added to an order. There are also A-frame movers that can be retrofitted to an A-frame without wheels. The Clip & Go dog walk, already on wheels, easy to move.
For the teeter, I like the Clip & Go teeter ($1,300) because of the speed-limiting cylinders on the base that help to reduce board bounce and whip as the end hits the ground, reducing chance of obstacle-related injury to the dog. But Max 200 ($600 to $650) is an excellent price and its board is sturdy. Plus, the height is easily adjustable for training. I suggest you spring for the M.A.D. Agility’s Teeter Tote ($115), if you can. It makes moving a teeter easier in the backyard.
Budget Contacts: There are DIY plans for teeter bases. Most DIY agility enthusiasts don’t make their own contact equipment for higher level training because of equipment size, weight, and safety concerns. If the dog is a large or giant breed, training on equipment that meets the standards of one of the national organizations is recommended to make sure the equipment can handle the forces the dog will place on it.
That being said, one of the most useful pieces of equipment for foundation or maintenance contact training is a travel plank, such as the one from Clean Run ($140). It’s also available through most agility equipment suppliers (consider an “add on” purchase!) or can be pretty simply built yourself.
My Favorite Tunnels
Tunnels are fun! Also known as “puppy cannons” because most dogs fly through them, tunnels can vary in length between 20 feet to as short as 3 feet for training.
What I love to compete on:Clip & Go tunnels ($260 to $600) because of their sturdiness. Their tunnel bags ($50 to $75) are also a favorite of mine for design in handling the heavy, weighted bags that help keep tunnels in place while a dog is running through it (an absolute necessity).
What I have in my backyard for training are Max 200 tunnels ($230 to $540) because they’re a good price and high quality.
Budget tunnels: Be careful. I am not a fan of lightweight tunnels. My first agility dog ran through one of these and only made it halfway before he became a tangled mess of dog, nylon, and wire. Thankfully, he was not injured, but it scared me. Try to purchase the best tunnels you can afford.
My Favorite Weave Poles
Weaves are one of the hardest agility obstacles to learn. Most agility enthusiasts who compete even on a local level have weave poles at home to train.
What I love to compete on: M.A.D. Agility or Max 200 because they provide equipment for most national events, and dogs can become very accustomed to the pattern of the weave pole bases. Expect to pay around $500 for weave poles, give or take.
In my backyard, I have several sets of weave poles. My 2×2 weave pole bases allow one to create exercises for a short run of poles (i.e., 4 to practice entrances without excessive wear and tear on the dog) and a full set of 12 as long as one has 6 bases. An economical source of 2 x 2 weaves is Mark’s Agility Equipment.
Budget weaves: Stick-in-the-ground weave poles are ideal for beginners. J&J Dog Supplies can supply the bases and you can also purchase a ground strip with grommets every 24 inches to stick the spike of the stick-in-the-ground weave pole through to ensure proper spacing.
The Best Pause Table
The pause table is used less than in the past, but it does require some training to ensure correct performance.
What I love to compete on: M.A.D. agility pause table because of the rubberized top, durability, and a compact table leg caddy that helps to keep all those not-in-use legs organized.
In my backyard, I have the Max 200 pause table with rubberized top and PVC base ($350). My dogs are all the same breed and use the same size table, so height switches are not necessary for me.
If you’re on a budget, like most of us when we started out, you can save some money here. I built my first agility pause table, and it did double as my coffee table when not in use! Clean run has a nice PDF on how to do it.
Final Thoughts on Agility Equipment
When considering purchasing or building agility equipment to train on, it’s important to consider the equipment standards for each organization you might compete in, assuming you plan to compete. For example, requirements for the height and length of the dogwalk, or the length of the boards for the A-frame can vary among agility organizations. Thankfully, for training purposes, there is quite a bit of overlap between most of the agility organizations:
It is possible to save money on quality agility equipment by pre-ordering and picking up new equipment at a national event or other large show, or committing to purchase equipment used for the event (slightly used). Equipment suppliers are often listed in the event premium.
Good used equipment can also be found online at sites such as Facebook Marketplace or Craig’s List. Sometimes dog training clubs sell used equipment as they upgrade equipment for competition. Again, when purchasing used equipment, consider the equipment specs for the organization you compete in most, as well as the condition of the equipment, keeping your dog’s safety in mind.
Dog eye discharge can often be treated at home with sterile saline solution, depending upon the cause. Dark tear stains like these require regular cleaning to control them.Dog eye discharge can often be treated at home with sterile saline solution, depending upon the cause. Dark tear stains like these require regular cleaning to control them. Credit: Tapanuth | Getty Images
Dog eye discharge, more commonly referred to as eye boogers, is a common concern for pet parents. The discharge can range from a mild, cosmetic issue to a sign of an underlying medical condition.
Some amount of eye discharge is normal in many dogs, particularly a small amount of clear or light-colored tearing that may dry into a crust at the corners of their eyes after sleep. This type of discharge is usually part of the eye’s natural self-cleaning process, helping to flush away dust, debris, and minor irritants. However, when discharge becomes excessive, changes color or consistency, or is accompanied by eye redness, squinting, or discomfort, it often indicates that something more is going on and deserves closer attention.
What Causes Dog Eye Discharge
The cause of eye discharge in dogs is varied and depends largely on the appearance of the discharge and the individual dog. Clear, watery discharge is most often associated with irritation or increased tear production, which may occur due to environmental factors such as wind, dust, smoke, pollen, or grooming products. Allergies, both environmental and food-related, can also increase tear production and lead to chronic watery eyes.
Structural issues also play a major role, particularly in certain breeds. Dogs with shallow eye sockets and prominent eyes, such as brachycephalic breeds, are more prone to poor tear drainage and chronic discharge.
Eyelid abnormalities, such as entropion, where the eyelid curls in and the lashes abrade the eye, or ectropion, where the eyelid droops outwards exposing the sensitive inner lining of the eyelid, can cause significant eye irritation and stimulate excess discharge. Underlying health conditions may also contribute to abnormal eye discharge. Dry eye, corneal ulcers, foreign bodies, or trauma can trigger both pain and discharge, often accompanied by squinting and pawing at the eye.
Home Treatment Remedies for Dog Eye Discharge
Remedies for eye discharge depend on identifying and addressing the underlying cause. In most cases, a non-infectious discharge can be treated with gentle daily cleaning sufficient to keep the eyes comfortable and prevent buildup. Using a soft cloth or cotton pad moistened with sterile saline or warm water can help remove debris from your dog’s face without irritating the eye.
You can also purchase eye wipes to help clean the area around the eye, or in facial folds of certain breeds, and remove discharge from your dog’s facial fur. For dogs with allergies, managing the allergic trigger may significantly reduce tear production over time.
Tear staining is a related but distinct concern that commonly accompanies chronic eye discharge, especially for light-colored dogs. The reddish-brown stains are caused by porphyrins, iron-containing molecules found in tears that darken when exposed to air and light.
Safely removing tear staining involves regular, gently cleaning and keeping the area around the eye dry. Enzymatic cleaners formulated for use on the face help to break down the molecules causing the staining and trimming the hair around the eyes can reduce moisture retention and minimize future stains. Products formulated for tear stains may help lighten stains over time, but harsh chemicals or bleaching agents should never be used near the eyes.
Address the Root Cause of Dog Eye Boogers
Long-term improvement in eye boogers and tear staining typically comes from addressing the root cause of excess tearing rather than aggressive cosmetic treatment. Managing allergies and ensuring good eye hygiene all contribute to healthier eyes and less staining. With consistent care and appropriate veterinary guidance when needed, most cases of eye discharge can be managed effectively, keeping your dog’s eyes comfortable, clear, and healthy.
Sometimes a change as simple as to using a stainless steel water bowl can help keep dog acne under control, especially in acne-prone dogs like this German Shorthaired Pointer. Credit: Studio Porto Sabbia | Getty Images
As with human acne, dog acne is an inflammation of the skin of the face. Or, more specifically in the case of your dog, the skin around the lips, chin, and muzzle. Most cases occur in shorthaired dogs such as Great Danes, Weimaraners, and German Shorthaired Pointers.
What you will see are red bumps, pimples or pustules, and reddened skin in those areas. You may also see hair loss. It looks a lot like a moist eczema.
What Causes Dog Acne?
Dog acne is most often associated with a trauma of some sort that breaks off hairs, leading the follicles open to infection and/or inflammation. It is often as simple as your dog rubbing his face with his paws or perhaps on a carpet, resulting in dog acne on the chin.
Some dogs react to rubber or plastic food and water bowls and end up with acne on their chins and lips.
How to Treatment Dog Acne
Your veterinarian may do some cytology (touching a slide to the inflamed area and then examining it under the microscope) looking for bacteria, fungal infestation, or mites. Finding anything on the cytology can help to guide treatment.
Dog acne treatment stars the same as with any “wet” skin condition: You want to use a drying agent. Benzoyl peroxide is often the foundation of canine acne treatment. Gentle cleaning (do not pop pimples or pustules!) may be all your dog needs for a mild case. Dry the area after washing. A topical antibiotic ointment or oral antibiotics may be prescribed if there is strong evidence for a bacterial infection or if cleaning alone does not clear up the acne.
Medicated foot powder can be gently and carefully applied to the chin since it is antibacterial, antifungal, anti-itch, and anti-inflammatory. You need to be careful to keep any powder from getting into your dog’s eyes. The powder tends to taste bad, but even so, distract your dog for a couple of minutes after you apply it to keep him from licking it all right off. Note: Do not use human acne medications on your dog!
How to Get Rid of Dog Acne
Prevention is key when it comes to dog acne. If your dog has rubber or plastic bowls, switch over to ceramic or stainless steel. They’re easier to properly clean anyway, so it’s a smart switch even if the acne is not a reaction to the dishes.
If your dog is a sloppy eater, try to clean and dry his muzzle after eating. Dogs with beards such as Schnauzers tend to have food and debris around their muzzles that can lead to acne.
If your dog has generalized skin allergies or skin inflammation, treating that primary disease should help to clear up the acne.
Puppy Acne
Puppy acne is a Staph infection seen in the groin area of some puppies. As with adult dog acne, this should be cleaned gently—baby wipes work well!—then dried. Medicated foot powder can help here, too.
With puppies you need to be sure their environment is clean and dry, so they aren’t lying in wet bedding or other dirty areas.
A reactive dog who has over-the-top aroused reactions to simple things needs a calm, targeted approach to desensitization training. Credit: Jaromir | Getty Images
Do you have a dog who has concerns about particular scenarios or triggers? It’s normal for any given dog to be uncomfortable about certain situations or sentient beings of some sort. After all, humans are as well. As humans, we can avoid some situations/people/triggers that cause us concern. But if those things exist in everyday life and are unavoidable, then most of us would seek help to cope with them. Desensitization dog training is the dog version of this.
There is an abundance of scenarios that a dog may need to be desensitized to. They can include but are not limited to:
Handling and husbandry tasks such as nail clipping, brushing, and ear cleaning
Sounds that may cause them fear or defensiveness such as thunderstorms and fireworks
Strangers entering their homes/sighting such on walks
Reactivity over other dogs on walks
Car rides
We need to address each scenario separately and remember that each dog is different.
How to Desensitize a Dog to Handling
I feel that this category of desensitization dog training is the easiest to implement. This involves creating better associations with these tasks as well as allowing your dog to opt out when there is no emergency. Choice-based handling practiced and conditioned on a regular basis can help your dog see that there is no reason to be concerned. For example, with nail trimming, you start by determining where your dog becomes uncomfortable with your touch, as you move from her shoulder down to her foot.
Dog Desensitization to Sounds
Dog desensitization to sounds is a category that can cause much distress for so many dogs. Thunderstorms and fireworks are at the top of the list. However, there are plenty of dogs who are blasé about those two sounds yet will have a meltdown over a garbage truck or a delivery truck. It’s much easier to address the type of sounds that have a tangible source to show a dog. Fireworks and thunderstorms are less so even though the sources are known to us. Dogs have a harder time connecting those sounds to a source. The sounds are also unpredictable and that makes them untrustworthy to dogs, who generally do enjoy predictability.
Counterconditioning can help with both types of noise categories. This means that you start pairing the planned presentation of the noise with something that your dog likes a LOT. This can be food or it can be play. How this is implemented will be different with each time of noise. Obviously, you can’t plan for thunderstorms or your neighbor’s loud fireworks display. But you can use recorded sounds. For loud noises that may originate in the home such as dropped items, slammed doors, etc. I like Dr. Amy Cook’s “Noise Party” protocol, which is well explained in a Fenzi Dog Sports Academy podcast.
Stranger Danger
How you address this in your home depends on the intensity of your dog’s concern about strangers. We will touch on concerns on the low end here as concerns on the high end truly need a professional on the spot helping you design a protocol for your individual dog. Concerns over strangers on walks are easily paired with reactivity over dogs so see that section for that subject.
If your dog is simply suspicious of those who you invite into your home but is not threatening anyone, the most important thing that you can do is to tell your guests to ignore your dog. That includes both verbal and body language. Don’t face them, don’t talk to them, don’t engage with them. Allow the dog to observe and process their observations.
Find It is always modified for the individual home and dog. The short version is placing the snuffle mat at a sufficient distance from the door to prevent door rushing but close enough that the dog can see the visitor enter. Use high-value food rewards in said snuffle mat, while also verbally cueing/reinforcing the Find It. If need be, keep the dog on a leash without tension but limiting access.
How to Desensitize a Dog to Other Dogs
I also use Find It to help desensitize a reactive dog to sighting other dogs on walks as well as sighting human strangers (or honestly anything that may concern them while they are walking with their human). In this context, distance matters greatly with keeping your dog under threshold so that you can safely desensitize them with this process.
The first order of business when desensitizing a dog to other dogs is management. This means that you must have appropriate control of your dog’s forward movement so that you can safely handle them. In most cases, a proper front attachment harness that is fitted well for your individual dog is of utmost importance. (See this article for ones that I have personally tested.)
Remember, proper fit is vital to not only give the handler the center of gravity but to ensure the comfort of the dog. Your dog knows when you feel comfortable with being able to handle them.
In some cases, a head halter may be necessary when there is a wide disparity between the size of the dog and the size/strength of the human. If this is an option that you prefer, proper conditioning for such should take place for best results. I rarely suggest these products, but when safety is a necessary consideration, used properly (as with any management equipment!), they are safe for both sides of the equation. I personally prefer the Halti and the Big Dog Styles one (the latter from the U.K.) for better comfort for the dog while still maintaining safety for the human.
Distance and Timing
Now back to desensitizing a dog training, distance is crucial as is timing. Creating better associations with any triggers on walks requires both sufficient distance from said trigger as well as some skill with marking the moment of either first engagement or disengagement on one’s own. I assume that you know what marking means, whether you use a clicker or a verbal marker.
As with all behavior-modification protocols, it’s imperative that you keep your dog under threshold. That cannot be overstated. This means that you must know your dog’s signs and tolerance levels so that you use distance, high-value food rewards, length of practice, management equipment, and their baseline tolerance level any given day. Taking all of that into account is of vital importance.
If you have any questions about this process, you really should meet with a well-qualified professional first before attempting any of these on your own. Otherwise, happy desensitizing dogs!
Your dog may be delighted to have a few licks of your yogurt, but the lactose may not agree with him. Greek yogurt may be better for dogs. Credit: Wesend61 | Getty Images
Yogurt is often viewed as a wholesome, probiotic-rich food, and many dog owners wonder whether it can be safely shared with their pet. The short answer is yes, yogurt can be good for some dogs, but only when the right type is chosen and fed in appropriate amounts.
Yogurt is not a necessary part of a dog’s diet, but it can serve as a healthy functional treat that provides beneficial bacteria, protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. However, because dogs do not process dairy as well as most humans do, understanding the nuances of yogurt types and ingredients is essential before adding it to your dog’s bowl, lick-mat, Kong, or Toppl.
Lactose Is a Problem for Dogs
One of the most important considerations when feeding yogurt to your dogs is lactose intolerance. Adult dogs are lactose intolerant, as they do not produce the lactase enzyme needed to break down lactose, the natural sugar found in milk, past puppyhood. When a lactose-intolerant animal consumes lactose, the sugar cannot be digested and creates gastrointestinal upset including gas, bloating, loose stools, and diarrhea. The severity of these symptoms varies widely between individual dogs, which is why some dogs tolerate yogurt well while others do not.
Traditional yogurt made from cow’s milk contains a moderate amount of lactose, although less than milk itself due to fermentation. The live cultures in yogurt consume some of the lactose during production, making it easier to digest than fluid milk.
Greek yogurt is often a better option for dogs because it is strained during processing, removing much of the whey and lactose. As a result, Greek yogurt is lower in lactose, higher in protein, and thicker in texture, making it one of the most commonly recommended yogurt options for dogs.
There are lactose-free yogurts available, which simply have the lactase enzyme added to them to break apart the sugar into a digestible format for lactose-intolerant people and dogs alike. This is a phenomenal option for pet parents looking to give their dog a fun treat without risking tummy troubles.
Concerns About Lactose-Free Yogurt and Dogs
Ingredient safety is just as important as lactose content when selecting yogurt for your dogs. Many flavored yogurts contain added sugars, flavors, and other ingredients that are unnecessary and potentially harmful.
Low-calorie, sugar-free, or “diet” yogurts are of particular concern as they may contain xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is extremely toxic and dangerous to dogs. Even very small amounts of xylitol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar causing seizures, liver failure, or death. For this reason, any yogurt given to a dog must be carefully checked to ensure it does not contain xylitol, which may also be listed under alternative names such as birch sugar.
Yogurt can be a safe, healthy, and delicious treat for dogs when chosen thoughtfully. As always, introduce new foods slowly and monitor your pet’s tolerance, keeping an eye out for signs of gastrointestinal upset. Plain, unsweetened, and preferably lactose-free, Greek yogurt is the best option for your pup due to low lactose and high protein levels. When fed sparingly, yogurt can be a simple way to add variety and beneficial digestive microbes to your dog’s diet.
If your dog’s attention-seeking whining is driving you crazy, consider teaching them quieter ways to ask for attention—like putting their head on your leg—instead. instead. Credit: AleksandarNakic | Getty Images
If you’re living with a dog who is constantly whining for attention, you’re not alone. Many loving and attentive dog guardians find this behavior frustrating, especially when it feels relentless. The good news is that when you understand why your dog is whining, and how the behavior developed, you’re in a much better position to respond in a way that is kind, effective, and supportive of your dog’s wellbeing and your relationship.
Why is My Dog Whining All the Time?
Whining is a normal canine behavior and one aspect of how they vocalize. Dogs use it to communicate how they’re feeling (Marx et al., 2021) and this can include emotions like frustration, stress, discomfort, excitement, or anticipation. Whining isn’t “bad behavior.” Rather, it’s information about a dog’s current emotional state. However, when whining becomes frequent, intense, or constant, it needs to be addressed.
If your dog is whining all the time, it’s important to understand why. Dogs don’t whine for no reason at all. Common reasons why a dog might whine all the time include:
Needing to relieve themselves
Hunger or thirst
Feeling anxious, fearful, or frustrated
Experiencing pain, discomfort, or an underlying medical issue
If constant whining is sudden or occurs alongside other behavioral changes, a checkup with the vet should be arranged.
What is Attention-Seeking Whining in Dogs?
Attention-seeking whining occurs when your dog whines and looks to you, often to elicit pats and affection or when they want you to do something (e.g. feed them, play with them, let them outside).
From a learning perspective, dogs repeat behaviors that have a beneficial consequence. If your dog loves attention, then they learn pretty quickly which behaviors result in attention and continue to offer these behaviors. For example, if whining results in being told off, some dogs will continue to do it because, to them, some attention is better than none.
In many cases, attention-seeking whining develops unintentionally, such as when a puppy or newly adopted dog vocalizes and is comforted. It develops when attention is given to a dog more often than not when they whine—even if it’s not every time. This is called intermittent reinforcement and actually strengthens the behavior. This can result in a dog whining more often or for longer as they attempt to obtain attention.
From the dog’s point of view, the escalation makes sense but can frustrate their owner. It doesn’t mean your dog is trying to intentionally annoy you. Rather, they are trying to meet a need for connection.
How To Tell if Your Dog is Whining for Attention
You can usually tell if a dog is whining for attention as they will typically show some of the following patterns:
Whining occurs most often when you’re present
The behavior stops once attention is given
Your dog is relaxed, happy, and healthy otherwise
Whining occurs in predictable situations (e.g. dinnertime, during work calls, when you’re sitting down)
Whereas whining linked to pain or distress often persists regardless of attention and is present alongside other stress signals.
When Whining is a Sign of Something More Serious
Sometimes, whining can be a sign of something more serious, such as separation anxiety (Pongrácz et al., 2017) or illness. Common indicators that this could be the case include the behavior being new or suddenly increasing in intensity accompanied by pacing, trembling, or panting, occurring when your dog is alone or separated from you, and when it’s associated with loss of appetite and changes in sleep or mobility. In these cases, a trip to the vet for a check-up is vital.
What To Do if Your Dog is Constantly Whining for Attention
If your dog is whining for attention, follow these steps to address it:
Step 1: Meet Your Dog’s Needs
Ensure you are meeting your dog’s social, physical, and psychological needs. When dogs are not receiving enough companionship, exercise, and mental stimulation, whining—and other undesirable behaviors—can increase due to boredom and frustration.
Step 2: Teach Your Dog Calm and Quiet Ways to Ask for Attention
Teach your dog that they can “ask” for attention politely by resting their muzzle on your lap or sitting at your side. When you consistently reward these calm behaviors with attention, you teach your dog how to ask for attention in a more desirable way.
Step 3: Change How You Respond to Whining
Rather than becoming frustrated and scolding your dog when they whine, ignore the behavior momentarily then ask for a more desirable behavior such as “sit.” Reward the sit if your dog is not whining. This teaches them that sitting quietly gets attention, but whining doesn’t. Pretty soon they’ll stop whining for attention because that no longer works. The key to making this work is consistency!
Mistakes To Avoid When Dealing with a Whining Dog
When working to address whining, there are several mistakes it’s important to avoid. These include:
Yelling at, or scolding, your dog (still attention)
Giving in “just this once”
Expecting immediate results
Assuming your dog is intentionally trying to annoy you
Behavior modification takes time. Try to be patient and celebrate steady progress.
Why Ignoring a Whining Dog Often Doesn’t Work
You might have been given advice to just ignore your dog’s whining. Whilst well-intended, this does not address the underlying cause and may result in the whining persisting. Removing your attention as a consequence of whining can help. However, it’s also important that your dog’s needs are being met, you are reinforcing desired behavior, and you are consistent for best results.
How Long Does It Take to See Improvement?
This is a common question and the answer depends on several variables including how consistent you are, how long whining has persisted, and whether your dog’s underlying needs are being adequately met. Generally speaking, most dog owners will notice some improvement within a week or two with further improvement seen over time.
When to Seek Professional Help for Whining
It’s time to seek help from a qualified animal behaviorist, veterinary behaviorist, or positive reinforcement dog trainer if whining is linked to stress or anxiety, the behavior is escalating, or if it’s negatively impacting your quality of life or your relationship with your dog.
As discussed above, if you think there could be an underlying medical or health issue, take your dog straight to the vet for a check-up.
Although constant whining can be a frustrating behavior dogs don’t whine for no reason. Understanding and addressing the underlying cause and meeting our dogs’ needs go a long way towards successful resolution.
How often a dog poops depends on the individual dog. Diet, exercise, and age can all make a difference in poop frequency and consistency. Credit: Fotkam | Getty Images
How often do you think about your dog’s poop schedule? You probably fall into one of two categories: You don’t think about it much beyond making sure you’re well-equipped with bags to scoop, or you obsess over the poop’s cadence, color, and consistency.
Neither extreme is ideal, but paying attention to the frequency, difficulty, and form of your dog’s poop does provide insight into her overall health and well-being.
Before you can determine your dog’s baseline poop habits (i.e., what is normal for her) and when to seek medical attention, you need to consider a mix of biology, diet, and lifestyle.
How Often Do Dogs Poop? What’s Normal for Your Dog?
While there’s no single answer to how many times a dog should poop, the number varies based on factors such as age (e.g., puppies go more often older dogs). Other factors include the dog’s level of exercise and overall diet. A sudden change in diet (and what types of human food your dog is getting into) is something to monitor, too, as that can result in diarrhea and altered frequency.
Various veterinary teaching hospitals and other experts—including Tufts University’s Cummings School, Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, and the Journal of Animal Science and Biotechnology—concur that healthy adult dogs settle into a pattern of two to three times a day, typically shortly after meals.
Dogs, of course, don’t all follow the same schedule. Several biological factors contribute to how often your dog needs to go. Again, puppies have high metabolisms and small digestive tracts and often need to eliminate almost immediately after eating. However, older dogs who have a slower metabolism may go less frequently.
What Factors Affect How Often Dogs Poop?
According to Tufts University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine, fiber plays a dual role in your dog’s diet. It’s a little tricky, though: While it helps firm up stool, excessive fiber can also increase the volume and frequency of bowel movements. Other factors include:
Mealtimes: The frequency of your dog’s meals contributes to her daily schedule. A dog fed once a day may poop only once. Conversely, a dog fed three small meals is likely to have more frequent urges.
Exercise: Physical movement stimulates muscle contractions that move waste through the intestines. This is why many dogs poop shortly after starting a walk.
Score 1: Hard, dry pellets indicate dehydration or constipation.
Score 2 (the ideal stool): Firm, segmented, but not crumbly.
Score 3: Moist surface, leaves a mark when picked up, but holds its shape.
Score 4-5: Very soft, moist, beginning to lose shape.
Score 6-7: Watery diarrhea with no texture.
When to Worry About Changes in How Often Your Dog Poops
A change in frequency may be an early sign of an underlying medical issue.
Cornell’s Riney Canine Health Center Veterinary groups suggests you watch for extreme shifts such as diarrhea. Most cases resolve on their own. However, according to Cornell’s Meredith Miller, DVM: “If a pet stops eating, is lethargic, the diarrhea is black or tarry in quality, there is associated vomiting, or the diarrhea doesn’t resolve in 48 to 72 hours then veterinary care should be sought.”
Conversely, if you suspect your dog is constipated you should bring him to a veterinarian if he hasn’t had a bowel movement for three days, displays pain (e.g., pacing, crying, hiding, and licking at the anus when trying to defecate, vomiting, or loss of appetite.
Can Probiotics Help Regulate How Often a Dog Poops?
Research from the Journal of Animal Science and Biotechnologyhighlights the importance of the gut microbiome in canine regularity. A balance of bacteria ensures that nutrients are absorbed efficiently, which stabilizes the frequency of elimination. If your dog has “unpredictable” frequency, veterinarians often recommend a clinical-grade probiotic.
When Should You Call the Vet About Your Dog’s Poop Habits?
While a single day of unusual bowel behavior is no reason to panic, the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recommends a visit to your vet if you notice:
Your dog tries to go but produces nothing.
Bright red blood in her stool dark or tarry stool an indication of melena.
Diarrhea or constipation that lasts longer than 24 hours.
If the change in pooping is paired with vomiting, lethargy, or a refusal to eat.
If you do decide to make a veterinarian appointment, remember to bring a fecal sample with you. That sample is a key part of truest way of knowing just how healthy your dog is.
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