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A Fish Story

By
Nancy Kerns
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20
What's worse than a skunked dog? One that has rolled in rotting fish carcass.
Even Boone looks disgusted by Maeve’s plight. But don’t be fooled; he would have rolled in the fish, too, if he had more time.

I won’t keep you in suspense. What’s worse is a dog who has rolled in a long-dead, rotten salmon carcass. Rolled at length and luxuriously, while ignoring the calls and whistles of her foster provider—even after being abandoned by the other dogs, who did heed their owners’ calls. Rolled and pressed both sides of her face and neck and shoulders in the carcass. Rolled so hard that she was dotted with chunks of rotten stinking flesh and slathered with greasy, fetid salmon fat. This is perhaps the most horrible thing a dog can do—to us. It’s also apparently one of the most wonderful things they can do for themselves.

I was out hiking with a friend and her 10-month-old German Shepherd, Timber. Like Maeve (my foster dog), Timber had been deprived of off-leash walks for a few days, and both young dogs were desperate for exercise, despite the fact that it was raining—not hard, but steadily. My friend and I met at a location that would take us on a loop around a woodsy part of the Oroville Wildlife Area, with the last mile of about three miles following the Feather River back to where we parked our cars.

Ordinarily, I stay well away from the river for a few months, starting in September, because the Feather is filled with salmon, who spawn in gravel beds in the frigid water. Remember, salmon die after spawning, and so, starting around September, the banks of the river (and the riverbed itself) become littered with dead salmon. Buzzards eat their fill of the dead fish, so much that they can barely fly after feasting. Foxes, coyotes, raccoons, crows—all sorts of other animals also consume the dead fish, dragging their carcasses well away from the river and up into the woods. In due time—perhaps late January—all that’s left of the carnage are some salmon backbones and some hunks of greasy fish skin, but right now, in mid-December, there are still a few stinking fleshy carcasses washing ashore here and there.

Still, though we were walking parallel to the river, we were staying below the levee that keeps the river from flooding. To get to the dead salmon, our dogs would have to run 150 feet or so up a steep embankment, cross the dirt road along the top of the levee, and then run down a nearly vertical bank to the river below. I felt confident that if our dogs started to run up the levee, we’d be able to call them back before they ran to the river.

But then the dogs spotted a deer, and were so preoccupied with the urge to give chase, we had to put them on leash, and they were pulling and generally being punks. So we decided to walk on the road on top of the levee, to put some distance between us and the woods that the deer disappeared into . . . which put us closer to the river.

We walked for probably a quarter mile or more with the dogs basically staying with us, before my darling dog Boone decided he wanted a drink of water and suddenly went over the embankment down toward the river, with foster dog Maeve at his heels. My friend called her dog and he stopped at the edge of the steep bank, watching my dogs (who were out of my sight, below). I shouted my emergency recall cue (“Boone, HERE!”) and I could see from Timber’s body language that Boone had heard me and responded pretty quickly; Timber bounced playfully backward in anticipation of Boone scrambling up the bank toward him, and then Boone himself appeared. But not Maeve. Oh, please dog, let it not be what I am afraid it is!

I called again. And again. And finally, a full minute later, here came Maeve. She was still a hundred feet away when my friend and I smelled her, and we both literally gagged.  The stench! It was absolutely the worst! And yet, I had to reward her for finally coming when called! I threw a handful of treats on the ground, and we headed back toward our cars, brainstorming the whole way: How could I get her to a bath without stinking up my car? Could I call my husband and ask him to come meet us with our truck? But she had never been in the back of a truck, even if I tied her in, it would likely freak her out. Did I have any crates that he could load into the truck? At the moment, I don’t. I had to make do.

Fortunately, I have thick blanket that I use to cover the back seat of my car. I ended up cross-tying Maeve in the back seat, using a leash tied to the grab handles above each of the back windows. I had to tie her short enough so she could not reach either door to lean on—she likes to put her head out of the window, and believe me, the only way I could drive without vomiting would be with all four windows all the way down. (If fish had gotten on the upholstery of my car, I would have to burn it to the ground. It would be unsellable.) Because Boone, too, seemed to have a little fish on him (perhaps just from colliding with Maeve as we walked), I made him ride in the back seat, too. I drove the five miles home trying not to breathe.

Oh, there is nothing as much fun as washing a dog outdoors in the rain (I was not going to bring her into the house!). I attached a garden hose to the hot water tap that usually serves my washing machine, and ran the hose out the small window in the back door. I filled several buckets with hot water, added just enough cold water to make the temperature comfortable for Maeve, but also warm enough to cut through the grease, and washed her four times: first with Dawn dish soap, then with a commercial de-skunking solution (which did not seem to significantly reduce the odor), then with the homemade de-skunking solution of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda (which did actually seem to help), and then once more with Dawn. Though I could still smell fish in her coat, my back could take no more. I dried her and put her in the Great Dane crate in my office.

Then I washed Boone, who had just a little fish smell on him. I used the last quart of hydrogen peroxide I had to make one more batch of de-skunking solution, and then washed him with Dawn. He got banished to my office to dry, too.

Lessons learned:

  1. It’s not safe to take an off-leash dog within a quarter mile of the Feather River (or any river where salmon spawn) from September to at least (I’m going to guess) the end of January. Especially foster dogs who aren’t all that reliably trained yet.
  2. Always keep an old blanket in your car when traveling with dogs. And an extra leash.
  3. The home-prepared de-skunking solution works on other really disgusting, putrid odors, too.

I hope you can learn from my mistakes!

PS: Make me feel better: What’s the worst thing your dog has ever rolled in?

What to Feed a Dog With a Yeast Infection

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
What you feed a dog with a yeast infection makes a big difference in how quickly they recover and whether they develop another yeast infection.
A dog who is constantly scratching at his ears, chewing at his feet, or has inflamed skin may be battling a yeast infection. Step 1 is to see a veterinarian and gain control of the infection, then you move to Step 2, which is prevention. Credit: Athima Tongloom | Getty Images

Yeast infections are common in dogs. These infections are typically caused by an overgrowth of candida, a type of yeast naturally found in the body, particularly in areas like the skin, ears, and digestive tract. While yeast is present in small amounts under normal conditions, certain factors can lead to overgrowth that cause symptoms such as itchy skin, ear infections, or digestive discomfort.

Yeast thrives in warm, moist environments. In dogs, this often manifests as ear infections, dermatitis, and digestive upset. When the body’s natural balance is disturbed, yeast can proliferate uncontrollably, leading to infection. Common risk factors include weakened immune system and dietary factors. Dogs with compromised immune systems, due to underlying conditions, such as diabetes, allergies, or medications such as antibiotics or corticosteroids, are more susceptible.

Diets High in Sugar and Carbs

While there is no best dog food for yeast infections, diets high in sugar and carbohydrates can create an environment that promotes yeast overgrowth, making them the worst dog food choices for dogs prone to yeast infections.

Yeast thrives on sugar and carbohydrates, which are converted to sugar by the body. This means that a diet rich in carbohydrates, especially simple sugars and starch, can fuel yeast growth.

Many dog foods contain grains and starches like corn, oats, rice, potatoes, and sweet potatoes, all of which are high in carbohydrates. A diet rich in these components can worsen or contribute to yeast infections in dogs. Conversely, low-sugar, low-carbohydrate diets can help starve yeast and promote a healthier balance of microorganisms in your dog’s body.

Diet to Manage Dog’s Yeast Infection

Some key dietary changes you can make to manage yeast infections include opting for low-carb diets, focusing on anti-inflammatory ingredients, and incorporating probiotics into the diet. Limit carbohydrate ingredients by looking for foods that use high-quality protein sources such as lean meat and fish instead of grains and starches. These proteins are easy to digest, provide energy, and the necessary nutrients for healing.

Be sure to avoid starchy or sugary treats as well! Many treats and chews contain sugars and grains that can promote yeast growth. It’s a good idea to opt for natural, low-carb, or single ingredient treats. Remember, many grain-free foods and treats still contain high carbohydrate levels from peas and potatoes, so keep an eye out for starchy and carb-rich ingredients on the label.

Yeast Infection Treatments

Yeast infections can cause inflammation in the body, especially the skin. Anti-inflammatory ingredients like omega-3 fatty acids (found in fish oils and flaxseed), can help reduce inflammation and support skin health.

A healthy gut microbiome plays an essential role in keeping yeast levels under control. Probiotics are beneficial bacteria that help to restore balance to the microbiome. Some high-quality dog foods include probiotics, or you can add a probiotic supplement your dog’s diet to support gut and immune health.

Yeast infections in dogs are a common problem, but you can get rid of yeast infections with the right care and management. Proper veterinary care that may include some medications to start, combined with dietary adjustments, can help address the root causes of yeast overgrowth and support your dog’s recovery. By focusing on a low-sugar, anti-inflammatory diet with high-quality protein and healthy fats, you can create an environment that helps your dog’s immune system fight off yeast and help your dog live a more comfortable life.

Caption: A dog who is constantly scratching at his ears, chewing at his feet, or has inflamed skin may be battling a yeast infection. Step 1 is to see a veterinarian and gain control of the infection, then you move to  Step 2, which is prevention.

Activated Charcoal for Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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0
Activated charcoal for dogs can be an effective treatment for toxins, but it is not a cure-all.
Used to bind some types of toxins after ingestion, activated charcoal can be found in gel, tablet, capsule, and powder forms. Credit: 1989_s | Getty Images

Dogs eat the strangest things. It seems like anything that fits in their mouths, goes in their mouths. And often gets swallowed! But what can you do at home if your dog ingests something toxic, like ibuprofen, rodenticide bait, chocolate, or grapes?

The first thing you should do at home is contact a pet poison control helpline, such as ASPCA Poison Control or Pet Poison Helpline. These helplines are staffed 24/7 by veterinary toxicologists who can help you determine the best course of action for your dog.

It may be tempting to administer a dose of activated charcoal to your dog after he has ingested something toxic. Activated charcoal is used to bind certain toxins and prevent them from being absorbed by your dog’s gastrointestinal system. But activated charcoal is not the best option for every scenario and may do more harm to your dog than good.

What is Activated Charcoal and How is it Made?

Activated charcoal is made from natural, carbon-based materials, such as coconut shells, wood, coal, and bamboo. These raw materials are first cleaned to remove as many impurities as possible. Then the materials are dried at low heat in a kiln. Once dry, the materials are crushed into small pieces.

The crushed materials are heated at a high temperature in the absence of oxygen. This step is called carbonization. It converts the crushed materials into raw charcoal.

The raw charcoal is then activated by either steam or chemical process. Steam activation involves heating the raw charcoal in the presence of oxygen. Chemical activation involves washing the raw charcoal in a chemical, such as an acid. Activation creates microscopic pores in the charcoal. The presence of pores increases the surface area of the charcoal.

Activated charcoal has a large surface area that attracts and traps certain toxins and chemicals. One ounce of activated charcoal has an average surface area of nine football fields. That’s a huge adsorptive capacity!

Activated charcoal is available in two varieties—with and without a laxative. Sorbitol is a laxative added to activated charcoal to speed up its excretion from the body. Activated charcoal with sorbitol will draw more water into the intestines than activated charcoal alone. This increases the risk of developing hypernatremia. Activated charcoal products containing sorbitol should only be given once and always under the supervision of a veterinarian.

If activated charcoal is recommended for your dog’s specific situation, the toxicologists at ASPCA Poison Control and Pet Poison Helpline can provide guidance on the amount required to adsorb the ingested toxin. The dose of activated charcoal will depend on the size of your dog and the type and amount of toxin ingested. Activated charcoal is effective for about 4 to 6 hours after administration. Your dog will have black stool for 24 to 48 hours following administration of activated charcoal.

Available forms of activated charcoal include suspension (gel), tablets, capsules, and powder. Activated charcoal suspension is more effective at adsorbing toxins than tablets, capsules, and powders.

Here are the facts about activated charcoal for dogs:

1. Activated charcoal doesn’t adsorb everything

Activated charcoal can be effective at adsorbing certain toxins, such as acetaminophen, ibuprofen and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) medications, chocolate, rodenticides (mouse bait), and marijuana.

Activated charcoal is NOT able to adsorb caustic substances (such as battery acid), hydrocarbons (such as gasoline and other petroleum products), xylitol, alcohol, ethylene glycol (automotive anti-freeze), and heavy metals (such as iron or lithium). It is also not effective in treating salt toxicity, like that which occurs with ingestion of paintballs or homemade playdough.

Activated charcoal should not be used for food poisoning. Dogs who have food poisoning are typically vomiting and dehydrated, both of which are contraindications for using activated charcoal (see below).

2. Activated charcoal could increase risk of aspiration pneumonia in dogs

Activated charcoal can cause dogs to vomit. As a dog vomits, they may inhale some of the activated charcoal that they are bringing up. Inhaling activated charcoal will cause aspiration pneumonia and has been known to cause severe inflammation and rupture of affected lung lobes.

Activated charcoal should never be administered by mouth to a dog who is sleepy, sedate, cannot hold up his head without assistance, or cannot swallow. These symptoms can occur with ingestion of marijuana or sedatives. These dogs are likely to inhale some of the activated charcoal and develop aspiration pneumonia with the potential for other complications.

If your dog ingested a toxin that has made him sleepy, sedate, or impaired his ability to swallow, your veterinarian may administer activated charcoal through a nasogastric tube. A nasogastric tube is a thin tube that is passed into one of your dog’s nostrils, down the back of the throat into the esophagus and ending in the stomach. A radiograph (x-ray) of your dog’s chest and stomach is taken to ensure that the nasogastric tube is in the correct location. Then the correct dose of activated charcoal is administered directly into your dog’s stomach via the nasogastric tube.

3. Activated charcoal can cause elevated sodium levels in dogs

Activated charcoal draws fluid into the small and large intestine as it passes through the gastrointestinal tract. This may create a water imbalance in the body that leads to a condition called hypernatremia. Hypernatremia is when there is too much sodium relative to fluid in your dog’s blood.

Dogs that were dehydrated prior to receiving activated charcoal are at increased risk of developing hypernatremia.

Symptoms of hypernatremia include lethargy, weakness, a wobbly gait when walking, disorientation, and seizures. If what your dog ingested also causes these symptoms, then you will not know if the symptoms your dog is exhibiting are being caused by the toxin or the activated charcoal.

Dogs that develop acute hypernatremia will need to be hospitalized and treated with intravenous fluids. Their sodium and other electrolytes will need to be closely monitored over the next 24 to 48 hours. This is in addition to treating them for the toxin they ingested.

4. Activated charcoal has a limited window of effectiveness

Activated charcoal is most effective if given within one hour of ingesting a toxin. Activated charcoal will have limited efficacy—if any at all—in adsorbing toxins ingested more than one hour prior to administration.

There are exceptions to this one-hour window. Modified release medications are designed to slowly release medication in the body over an extended period of time. These medications are slowly absorbed, allowing a greater time period for which activated charcoal can be effective.

Toxins that undergo enterohepatic circulation may require multiple doses of activated charcoal given over 24 to 48 hours. Enterohepatic circulation is when something is absorbed by the small intestine, goes to the liver and then the gallbladder, and then re-enters the small intestine unchanged, only to be absorbed again. Bromethalin, the neurotoxin found in some forms of rodenticide, is a classic example of a toxin that undergoes enterohepatic circulation.

5. Activated charcoal should not be used in dogs with certain conditions

Activated charcoal should not be given to dogs who have recently undergone gastrointestinal surgery. Dogs that have gastric ulcers should not receive activated charcoal. Do not give your dog activated charcoal if you suspect he may have an intestinal blockage.

Activated charcoal should be used with caution in dogs that have kidney disease, diabetes mellitus, diabetes insipidus, hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease), and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). These diseases are known to cause changes in water intake and sodium levels.

Using Activated Charcoal for Dogs

Activated charcoal can be a powerful decontamination tool for removing certain toxins from your dog’s body. But it may also be harmful or ineffective if used incorrectly. Call ASPCA Poison Control or Pet Poison Helpline and then seek immediate veterinary attention if your dog has ingested a toxin.

Best Tools for Daily Dog Training

By
Stephanie Colman
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0
Dog training tools like treat pouches and tethers can make positive reinforcement a daily habit.
There aren’t many things you actually need to train your dog on a daily basis, but tools like treat pouches and a crate or tether can make a big difference. Credit: Ziga Plahutar | Getty Images

Adding a dog to the family is exciting! As you get to know your new friend and look forward to a lifetime of adventures, daily training should be at the top of your list. Dogs don’t come pre-programed to understand how to behave in our human world—they rely on us to teach them.

When it comes to training our canine companions, there are a few important items — beyond essentials like a collar and leash — that you’ll want to have on hand to set you and your dog up for success.

Treats and a Treat Pouch

Modern, dog-friendly dog training relies on the use of rewards to reinforce desired behavior. Food is a great reinforcer. Some dogs are happy to work for their kibble (we’re looking at you, Labradors), but many dogs work more attentively for higher-value treats—especially if you’re working around distractions. When it comes to determining the value of a treat, it’s the dog’s opinion that counts. Here are some important things to consider when choosing treats.

You’ll need somewhere to store your treats during your training sessions. A dog-training-pouch keeps your treats easily accessible and can help keep your hands a little cleaner. Here are some helpful features to look for, and our top five pouch picks.

Not every training session needs to be so formal as to require suiting up with a treat pouch. I like to make a trail mix of assorted small, dry treats my dog loves, and keep them (safely out of reach!) in little bowls around the house. I can easily grab a few pieces for spontaneous training sessions throughout the day. For daily training, think in terms of a little and often. Practicing three sits here, two repetitions of rewarding your dog for orienting toward you when she hears her name, and consistently rewarding your squirrel-obsessed dog for not barking as she watches squirrels through the window will go a long way toward creating a well-trained dog.

Enrichment Toys

Enrichment toys for dogs are great boredom busters and a nice way to help your dog learn to “sit quietly and color” when you’d like to relax. They can also slow a dog’s habit of eating too quickly, and there’s even research suggesting that some dogs may prefer working to obtain their food to eating food that’s readily available in a bowl. I’m a big fan of toys you can stuff with food as well as the puzzle-style toys. While this may not seem like active training, keeping your dog busy with approved activities is a great way to prevent her from practicing unwanted behaviors. It’s important to give your dog access to the right things to do. Self-employed dogs often choose behaviors we aren’t too fond of. Train smarter, not harder!

Safe Containment Strategy

Teaching a dog to be safely confined in a crate, an x-pen, behind a baby gate or, when supervised, on a chew-proof tether is an important life skill for dogs. The ability to confine a dog is helpful for house training, general management, for times when you can’t directly supervise your dog, and when you need to restrict activity following an injury or surgery. Even if you don’t plan to use a crate, training your dog to comfortably accept crating will make vet and grooming appointments less stressful, as dogs often need to be crated or otherwise confined as part of those visits.

Appropriate Chew Items

Chewing is natural for dogs, so it’s important to provide plenty of appropriate chew items, and to help your dog build value for self-entertaining through a relaxing chew session. I prefer durable chew items like Kong toys and the Zogoflex line of toys by West Paw, as well as durable Nylabones and Benebones. While I’ll sometimes offer a bully stick, I tend to avoid rawhide and other assorted animal part chews due to the amount of processing involved.

Note: Durable chews like Nylabones and Benebones are made of nylon and are non-edible. As dogs chew, their teeth wear the bone down, but they should never be able to bite through the bone. Many vets, especially dental vets, advise against these types of tough chews due to the possibility of an aggressive chewer breaking a tooth. That said, I spent five years working in a kennel full of aggressive-chewing service dog trainee Labs who were only allowed durable Nylabones in their runs, and broken teeth were extremely rare. All dogs are different, so consider your circumstances, analyze the risks versus rewards and decide what’s best for you and your dog.

While fostering a love of enrichment toys and appropriate chew items may not fit your idea of daily training as much as practicing behaviors like “sit,” “down,” “leave it,” or training for a reliable recall, they’re valuable life skills that help make our canine friends easy to live with. When we teach our dogs specifically how we’d like them to spend their free time around the house, they’re less likely to engage in unwanted behaviors we need to interrupt and redirect.

Access to a Qualified Trainer

Working with a professional trainer has many benefits. You’ll have someone who can answer your questions and help troubleshoot challenging behaviors. Scheduled training sessions can help keep us motivated, and when your dog is ready, attending a group training class helps your dog learn to work with you around distractions. Even professional dog trainers attend group training classes with their own dogs. Working with a professional trainer gives you new things to practice at home, and most trainers are more than happy to answer questions between scheduled training sessions, giving you regular access to canine tech support as needed.

Patience, Persistence and a Sense of Humor

Of course, successful dog training isn’t just about having the right gear. The right attitude is just as important. It’s sometimes hard not to internalize your dog’s misbehavior and take his noncompliance as a personal affront—especially if you personally identify as a perfectionist. (Fellow recovering perfectionists: I see you.) Changing behavior takes time, so be patient, seek help when needed, and don’t be afraid to laugh at mistakes—yours and your dogs—as you explore your training journey together.

The Best Dog Shampoo for Odor

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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1
What is the best dog shampoo for odor? We tested six brands to find out.
With human help (and not all at once, of course!), our tester dogs tried out six different dog shampoos to find out which one worked best for reducing odor. Credit: Jae Thomas

Even if you personally love smelling their Frito feet, there’s no denying that dogs sometimes stink. Whether your dog rolled in something smelly or is simply overdue for a bath, the best dog shampoo for odor will have your pup smelling fresh in no time.

 

 

 

Why Does My Dog Stink?

There are a number of reasons why your dog could smell bad. Too long between baths can cause oil buildup that leads to more pronounced doggy odor and a greasy coat. Dogs who romp and play outside regularly often pickup smells in their environment too, so if your dog loves rolling in the dirt and grass, chances are they’ll come inside smelling a little funky.

You may be looking for the best dog shampoo for odor and itching, but itchy, stinky skin may be a sign of an underlying health condition. Skin conditions, ear infections, anal gland issues, allergies, and other health-related problems can cause smellier-than-usual pups. If your dog regularly smells bad even after a bath, or is constantly licking or scratching, consider talking to your vet about it.

Traits We Want in a Dog Shampoo for Odor

The best dog shampoos for odor should banish doggy smells, be easy on the skin, and leave dogs’ coats feeling healthy. Here are two things to look for when buying a dog shampoo:

Deodorizing ingredients: Look for a shampoo that will help neutralize dog odors at the source instead of just hiding them with strong scents. Ingredients like rosemary oil  and baking soda will help rid your home of that stinky dog smell. Using a PH-balanced dog shampoo is a good idea too, since it will keep your pup’s skin healthy and less susceptible to skin issues that cause odor.

Skin-friendly ingredients: If your dog has sensitive skin or preexisting skin issues or allergies, look for soothing ingredients that will keep their skin and coat moisturized and irritant-free. Ingredients like colloidal oatmeal, ceramides, and aloe will keep dogs’ skin barriers soothed and healthy.

How We Tested the Best Dog Shampoos for Odor
We tested the best dog shampoos for odor with coffee soaked rags.
As part of the testing process, rags were soaked in coffee and then washed with each shampoo. Credit: Jae Thomas

I used each of these shampoos on both of my dogs, one of whom is a long-haired, double coated breed and the other who is a short-haired, single-coated dog. Testing each shampoo on both dogs allowed me to evaluate how well each worked for certain coat types. I assessed how well each shampoo lathered, how they made my dogs’ coats feel post-bath, and whether they eliminated doggy odor (my short-haired dog is particularly prone to a greasy coat and doggy odor when she goes a long time between baths). Shampoos that left a lot of residue on my dogs’ coats despite being thoroughly rinsed and shampoos that left them feeling dried out were penalized accordingly.

To zero in on the odor-reducing benefits of each shampoo, I also created a standardized test to see how well each shampoo cleaned and neutralized odors. I soaked a rag in coffee for 5 minutes to simulate both dirt/debris and odor. After each rag was soaked in coffee, I briefly rinsed the coffee from each rag in lukewarm water. I then washed it using half a teaspoon of shampoo and water for one minute, making sure to lather and scrub as well as I could. I rinsed each rag thoroughly, and after rinsing I let each rag dry overnight. I then smelled each rag and ranked them in order of least coffee smell to most coffee smell. The rag with the least coffee smell was the best at eliminating odor and this matched up with my real-life tests using my dogs.

Read on for the best dog shampoos for odor I tested for Whole Dog Journal:

Best Dog Shampoos for Odor

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceSizeNotes
Wahl Odor Control Purifying Dog Shampoo$1024 ouncesSudsed up well, with a strong smell of eucalyptus mint. Completely washed the coffee scent out of the fabric in the smell test, and left a pleasant minty scent that wasn’t too overpowering. It also completely banished doggy odors when used on our tester dogs. This shampoo left my dogs’ coats feeling a bit dry but was helpful at removing excess oil and cleaning greasy coats.
DermAllay Oatmeal Shampoo $1712 ouncesThis option got quite bubbly for a non-soap shampoo. The apple scent is light and pleasant, and it completely neutralized the coffee scent in the smell test. This shampoo offered the best
post-bath coat texture on my long-coated dog of all the shampoos I tested.
Arm & Hammer Super Deodorizing Dog Shampoo$720 ouncesThis shampoo was incredibly sudsy and has a strong artificial fruity scent. It left some light coffee smell on the fabric during the scent test and left some residue on my dogs’ coats post-wash. Still, this is a solid low-priced shampoo for budget-conscious dog owners.
Frisco Oatmeal Dog & Cat Shampoo$2520 ouncesThe strong artificial almond scent is a bit off putting at first, but this shampoo completely neutralized both coffee odors and doggy odors in our tests. It left a pleasant, slightly sweet after scent, and left my dogs’ coats feeling soft and shiny.
Earthbath deodorizing rosemary shampoo$1916 ouncesThis shampoo didn’t lather very well, and I had to use a lot of product to give my dogs a thorough bath. It has a nice, faint rosemary scent, but it failed to neutralize odors in all of our tests.
Burt's Bees Oatmeal, Oat Flour & Honey$12-$1816 ounces
32 ounces		This shampoo also lacked lather and required using a lot of product to completely wash my two medium-sized dogs. The bottle opened and spilled partially in transit, and it failed to neutralize odors in all of our tests.

Best Overall Dog Shampoo for Odor: Wahl Odor Control Purifying Dog Shampoo

The Wahl Odor Control Purifying Dog Shampoo is the best shampoo for odor that I tested. It completely neutralized the coffee odor on the fabric during our smell test and left a nice faint minty scent on the cloth. When I washed my two dogs with it, it did a great job of cutting through excess oil on the coat and eliminated all doggy odors (including the strong Frito foot smell that my older dog tends to get).

Though the Eucalyptus Spearmint scent in the bottle is fairly strong, the after scent is very mild. Some deodorizing shampoos have overpowering scents and leave dogs smelling like you’ve tried to cover up the stench with too much perfume. That isn’t the case with the Wahl Odor Control Purifying Dog Shampoo.

For long-coated dogs, I recommend pairing this shampoo with a conditioner. It left my rough collie’s coat feeling a tad dry. This is really more of a clarifying shampoo than a normal shampoo, as it gets down to the skin and strips oils, dirt, and product buildup very effectively. It left my single coated dog’s coat a tiny bit drier than other shampoos I tested, but because she runs oily, it’s not necessarily a bad thing. This is a good pick for dogs with oily coats, and at $10, it’s reasonably priced.

Best Dog Shampoo for Allergies and Itchy, Sensitive Skin: DermAllay Oatmeal Shampoo

Of the shampoos tested, DermAllay Oatmeal Shampoo is the best dog shampoo for allergies, itchy skin, and sensitive skin. The soap-free formula is gentle on skin and if your dog is prone to dry skin it won’t strip out their natural oils either. This shampoo contains colloidal oatmeal, a popular ingredient for treating skin conditions like itchiness, eczema, severe dryness, and allergies in humans and animals alike.

According to Dr. Sara Bledsoe, a veterinarian at Chewy, “The active ingredient in this therapeutic shampoo is a ceramide complex that helps rebuild and maintain a strong, healthy skin barrier,” which is great for dogs with damaged coats and sensitive skin.

Despite the gentle formulation, this shampoo did an excellent job at fighting odor. In both the fabric test and real-life dog tests, it broke down odor nearly as well as the Wahl shampoo. I liked the way this shampoo left my Rough Collie’s coat feeling, even with no conditioner. The fatty acids and ceramides in this shampoo did a great job at moisturizing her coat.

This shampoo costs $17 for 12 ounces—if it were slightly cheaper, this shampoo would have been the overall winner. If your dog has any skin issues or is just extra sensitive to certain ingredients, opt for DermAllay Oatmeal Shampoo.

Best Budget Dog Shampoo for Odor: Arm & Hammer Super Deodorizing Dog Shampoo

If you want to spend under $10 for a dog shampoo, the Arm & Hammer Super Deodorizing Dog Shampoo is the best budget dog shampoo for odor. This shampoo left some residue on my Rough Collie’s coat after use, even with thorough rinsing, and the artificial kiwi blossom smell is quite strong. It did a decent job of deodorizing in both the coffee test and the dog test, leaving only a bit of lingering scent. This is not the best option, but at $7, it gets the job done cheaply.

Another Good Option: Frisco Oatmeal Dog & Cat Shampoo

The Frisco Oatmeal Dog & Cat Shampoo also performed well in our smell tests, completely neutralizing both strong doggy odor and coffee odor. Though it has a strong, artificial almond scent in the bottle, it actually rinses out to a lovely neutral smell that’s slightly sweet. This shampoo left my two dogs feeling more moisturized than the Wahl shampoo, so it’s a good pick for dogs with a dry coat.

This shampoo comes recommended by Dr. Katy Nelson, senior veterinarian at Chewy. “For my own dog when he’s just plain dirty or stinky, I break out the Frisco Oatmeal Shampoo,” she says. “It smells delicious, is gentle on his sensitive skin, and leaves his hair soft and tangle free. It’s a good one!”

This shampoo is pricier than the other options on our list, which is why I rated it a bit lower. If you want a shampoo that’s not as purifying as the Wahl, but don’t need the sensitive-skin friendly formulation of the DermAlly, this Frisco shampoo is a good pick.

Shampoos We Also Tested

Of six products tested for odor control 4 proved to be the best dog shampoo for odor.
Of the six products tested, four performed well, successfully reducing odor while leaving skin and coats feeling healthy. Credit: Jae Thomas

I also tested Earthbath deodorizing rosemary shampoo and Burt’s Bees Oatmeal, Oat Flour & Honey. Both shampoos left a lot of noticeable coffee odor after our coffee scent test. Each one left my dogs’ coats feeling soft and clean, but they didn’t combat doggy odor as well as the other options on this list. If you’re looking specifically for a dog shampoo for odor, opt for Wahl Odor Control Purifying Dog Shampoo, DermAllay Oatmeal Shampoo, Arm & Hammer Super Deodorizing Dog Shampoo, or Frisco Oatmeal Dog & Cat Shampoo.

Understanding Prey Drive in Dogs

By
Dan Muse
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Does you dog have an instinct to chase? Then your dog's prey drive may be a strong one due to breeding and instinct.
A sport like AKC FAST Cat is a terrific sport for dogs with a high prey drive, as they chase the lure at top speeds. Credit: GoDog Photo | Getty Images

If you have ever lived with a Greyhound, Jack Russell Terrier, Weimaraner, or another working breed, you’ve probably lived with a dog that has a strong instinct to chase anything that moves. In short, you’ve had a dog with a strong prey drive.

 

 

What Is Prey Drive in Dogs?

Prey drive is a predatory instinct deeply rooted in a dog’s genetic makeup. It is a complex mix of biological and environmental factors that drives a dog’s hunting behavior.

While canine prey drive is natural, the human understanding of this instinct is not, especially with breeds known to be on the high end of the spectrum.

“The intensity of this genetic trait can vary significantly among dogs, ranging from a mild interest in moving objects to a strong desire to chase after animals, regardless of their size,” says Ashley Reely, founder and dog trainer at Meraki Dogs.

Prey Drive Goes Beyond Chasing Squirrels

“It’s important to note that a high prey drive isn’t just about chasing small animals. Dogs with this trait might also pursue larger animals like deer, livestock, or even horses,” Reely says. “Additionally, fast-moving objects such as bicycles or even small children can trigger this response, as they might be perceived similarly to prey.”

Reely explains that dogs with a high prey drive will “demonstrate distinct behaviors such as intense staring, attempting to chase, or showing signs of frustration like whining or barking when spotting an animal they cannot reach.” The drive factor may cause them to try to scale barriers or pull aggressively on their leash upon seeing potential prey.

What Is Low Prey Drive?

In contrast, dogs with low prey drive typically show little interest in other animals, says Nicole Kohanski, founder, dog behaviorist, and trainer at Texas-based Wiggle Butt Academy. “Dogs with low prey drive will be calm and possibly indifferent when visualizing wildlife. They may look at the critter but will disengage quickly and resume their walk or sniffing. Low prey drive dogs may have less interest in chasing moving toys like balls or flirt poles.”

Signs Your Dog May Have a High Prey Drive

While certain breeds are more likely to have a high prey, any dog can. A few of the indications are:

  • Excessive chasing (of anything). Dogs with high prey drive may chase anything that moves, including cars, bikes, and other animals.
  • They may stalk prey (or what they think is prey), whether it’s a squirrel, a cat, or a small child.
  • Once a dog locks onto prey, it can be difficult to distract them.
  • Excessive barking and growling at moving objects can be a sign of high prey drive.

Why You Need to Recognize Prey Drive

Dogs with high prey drive can pose a danger to themselves and others. They may chase traffic, attack other animals, or even harm people.

High prey drive can make training more challenging. Dogs may be easily distracted and struggle to focus on cues. If not managed properly, high prey drive can lead to behavioral issues such as aggression, anxiety, and destructive behavior.

Four Training Tips for Dogs With a High Prey Drive

To control dogs with high prey drive, Kohanski suggests that you:

  1. Spend time on impulse control behaviors like “leave it” and work in increasingly difficult environments over time.
  2. Provide a “legal” outlet for the dog’s prey-chasing behavior so that the need is satiated. FAST Cat is a fast-growing dog activity that may help.
  3. Manage the environment to minimize the dog’s exposure to prey.
  4. Ensure the dog has enough mental enrichment, such as activities like nose work that engage the brain.

“At home, dogs with a high prey drive may need slow introductions and close monitoring around smaller animals,” Reely says. “Despite training and management, some dogs may not be able to coexist safely with other pets. Occasionally, the only viable option might be to keep the dog as the single pet in the household to prevent any risks to other animals. This is an unfortunate reality when keeping dogs with intense prey drive.”

What You Need to Know: Zyrtec for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Zyrtec for dogs can help with allergies and sensitivity to bug bites that cause itchiness.
It’s always wise to find out why your dog is itchy before reaching for a medication like Zyrtec. Credit: Nick Beer | Getty Images

If your dog reacts to a bug bite or has allergies and itches, your veterinarian may recommend Zyrtec to help make him comfortable. Zyrtec (generic name is cetirizine) is a human antihistamine drug and is used “off label” for dogs, as it is not FDA-approved for dogs.

Note: It is extremely important NOT to use Zyrtec-D, as it contains pseudoephedrine! This ingredient is toxic to dogs. And, as with any over-the-counter (OTC) human medication, always check for xylitol (also known as birch sugar and similar names), too, as it can kill your dog.

Zyrtec Is Safe for Dogs

Zyrtec is safe for dogs, when used appropriately. Zyrtec, or cetirizine, is an oral medication available as a tablet or a liquid. While it is not required to give it with food, some dogs handle it better along with some food so there is no gastrointestinal upset. Owners generally report relief in their dog’s symptoms in about two hours.

Do not use Zyrtec in dogs with:

  • Seizures
  • Glaucoma
  • Senior dogs
  • Pregnant/nursing dogs

Important Zyrtec Drug Interactions

Avoid Zyrtec in dogs with kidney or liver disease due to interference with drug metabolism.

Cetirizine also interacts with a wide range of medications such as digoxin (for heart patients) and diazepam (Valium) and alprazolam (Xanax), which are drugs that act on the central nervous system.

Check With Your Veterinarian

With any OTC human medication, it is wise to check in with your veterinarian to be sure the drug is safe for your dog. Be sure to let your veterinarian know any medications, supplements, vitamins, etc., your dog is already taking.

The recommended dose for cetirizine (Zyrtec) is .5 mg per lb (milligrans per pound), given once a day. The standard size for human tablets is a 10 mg pill. You will need to cut a pill cutter to make sure you have the correct dose for many sizes of dogs:

Dog WeightDosageFrequency
5-10 lb dog2.5 mg (1/4 pill)Once a day
11-25 lb dog 5 mg (1/2 pill) Once a day
26-50 lb dog10 mg (1 whole pill) Once a day
51 to 75 lb dog15 mg (1 ½ pills) Once a day
75 lbs or more20 mg (2 pills)Once a day

Side Effects of Zyrtec in Dogs

Side effects to cetirizine (Zyrtec) are not common but could show up as gastrointestinal upset or drowsiness. Report anything unusual immediately to your veterinarian.

Zyrtec is medication used for mild symptoms such as a mild reaction to insect bites or a low-level allergy with itching. If your dog shows intense symptoms such as anaphylaxis (life-threatening shock) to a bee sting, for example, go to your veterinarian immediately.

If your dog is not showing relief to his allergy symptoms after a day or so of treatment with Zyrtec, then he needs something stronger.

Symptom Relief Only

Remember that Zyrtec relieves symptoms. It does nothing to cure the allergy itself. For that, you may need to manage the environment or consider things like desensitization.

Toxic overdosing is unusual but could occur if your dog chewed open a bottle and ingested numerous pills. Urine retention, gastrointestinal upsets, changes in heart rate and rhythm, along with exhaustion and possibly being disoriented could occur in your dog. You should contact your veterinarian and one of the animal poison control centers immediately: ASPCA Poison Control 888-426-4435; Pet Poison Helpline 855-764-7661.

Dry Dog Food for Picky Eaters

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Some dogs are picky eater. Finding dry dog food for picky eaters might mean trying multiple foods and strategies.
A picky dog who won’t eat dry kibble can be frustrating, but it’s not a situation you can ignore. The ideas in this article can help you find just the right food for your dog. Credit: Yana Tikhonova | Getty Images

If your dog is a picky eater, it can be tough to know how to make a meal more appealing. Dogs will refuse to eat kibble, walk away from new flavors, or pick at the food and never finish a meal. It’s frustrating! Fortunately, there are high-quality dog foods specifically designed to entice even the pickiest of pups.

Best-Tasting Dry Dog Food

So, what makes dry dog food tasty? When it comes to tempting a picky eater, the key is to find a kibble that appeals to their sense of taste, smell, and texture. Dogs are carnivorous by nature, so they tend to find food with high-quality, animal-based protein most appealing. When reading labels, look for:

Real meat first. Look for dry food that lists real meat as the first ingredient. Dogs are more likely to eat kibble that contains familiar, meaty flavors compared to those with more plant-based protein sources.

Enticing ingredients. Dogs find foods with natural meat broths or hydrolyzed organ meats especially enticing. These ingredients can make kibble smell more appetizing and add an extra layer of richness to the flavor.

Various proteins. Try switching up the main protein used. Boredom can occur after a time on a specific diet, so try changing from chicken to beef or from lamb to rabbit to offer a new flavor profile for your pup.

Look for a different texture. The surface or feel of the kibble plays a big role in the sensory experience of eating for dogs and can impact their enjoyment of a food. Kibble that is too hard or dry may be off-putting, especially for small or senior dogs. Small dogs may have a difficult time breaking the kibble and seniors may experience jaw or tooth pain. Some brands offer kibble with a softer bite or an extra layer of coating, which can help to soften the kibble and make it more enjoyable to eat.

What to Add to Dry Food for Picky Eaters

If none of these tactics work, there are still things you can try to encourage your picky dog to eat. Adding a spoonful of wet food, meal topper, scrambled egg, or broth can help make mealtime more appealing. The smell and moisture of these products help persuade picky eaters to finish up their meal.

You can try warming up your dog’s kibble with some warm water or broth. Heat and moisture help volatize the scent particles, giving the meal a stronger smell.

Lastly, try to stick to a routine. Some dogs are more likely to eat if they are on a consistent schedule. Avoid leaving food out all day, and be sure to stick to regular mealtimes.

Winning Over the Canine Picky Eater

Feeding a picky eater is a challenge, but the right high-quality, palatable kibble can make all the difference. Choose a dry dog food that uses real animal protein, animal fat, palatability boosters, like natural flavors, and has a satisfying texture (check WDJ’s approved dry dog food database).

It is always a good idea to consult with your veterinarian if your dog’s pickiness continues to rule out a health problem causing a lack of appetite or if you have concerns about their nutrition. With the right food, you can help your dog enjoy meals again and ensure your dog gets the nutrition needed to stay happy, healthy, and energized.

An Open Letter to the People with the Cat

By
Nancy Kerns
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These three dogs are well practiced in leash recall which kept them calm and under control instead of chasing a strange cat.
My dogs missed the whole thing, but that’s a good thing—and it would have been different if we didn’t practice recalls so often. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Dear people who were out walking with their cat in the Oroville Wildlife area a week or so ago when you saw a lady and three off-leash dogs emerge from the woods,

I am so sorry that we startled you—and I am so glad that you immediately split up, leaving the woman behind to hold up a hand and shout to me. I couldn’t hear what she said, all I heard was the word “cat,” but I understood that I should leash the dogs, which I did immediately. Because of your quick action, my dogs never even saw your partner until after I had them on leash and we were again walking in your direction.

You see, even though I walk with my dogs off-leash in that area frequently, and it is 100% legal for them to be off-leash, and we hardly ever see anyone out there, I practice calling them back to me at least once on every walk. Sometimes I’ll spot a deer, because I’m taller and have a better view, and I’ll call them to me and give them treats for coming so that when they do hear the deer crashing away in the woods, they are right with me and don’t chase the deer. We practice so much, in fact, that I can usually call them back to me even if they have spotted a deer and are thinking about chasing it. So, because of your calm signal, I understood that I needed to call the dogs to me and was able to do that in a flash. And then you turned and started walking the way your partner had gone.

We were following a couple of hundred yards back, with the dogs on leash, before I saw you both approaching your car and understood why you had signaled to us and then quickly retreated: You were walking with a cat on a harness and a long leash! How wonderful! I am so impressed that you are that committed to your cat’s mental and physical health; very few people take the time to train and habituate a cat to a harness and leash, much less take them exploring in a woodsy area! I was so happy to see that!

It was also impressive that you knew what to do if you saw dogs, whether on-leash or off-leash. Your immediate actions of splitting up, leaving one person behind to communicate to the person with the dogs, and having the other person immediately retreat to a safer place with the cat—that was genius. You prioritized the safety of your cat, rather than “chanced it” that some unknown person would be willing and able to control their dogs. My dogs never even saw your cat, and only had a glimpse of you holding up your hand to me, because I called them back to me and they all came to me immediately, even the foster dog! And you were both so calm; no hysterical shouting or threats. You must have done this before.

When I heard the word “cat,” even though I hadn’t heard what else you said, I thought that perhaps you had seen a cat, and I immediately thought that perhaps you had found a cat that had been dumped out there. (I was once walking with a friend and our dogs in that same area and found a dog that had clearly been abandoned. It was startled when it first saw us, and it kept running toward us, excited, and then running scared to a sort of a nest-like area under a tree. I thought maybe it was a mom with puppies, but when we got close to the tree, we could see a bunch of fast-food wrappers; the dog had clearly been raiding one of the garbage cans by the river to live on. My friend and I managed to catch the dog and take her to the shelter. But that’s how I know that people sometimes do dump animals out there.) It made my heart so happy that the cat you had shouted about wasn’t a dumped or injured cat, but obviously a much-loved and amazingly well cared for cat who was receiving more enrichment than most cats receive.

When you got to the car you opened the back and the cat jumped in; you both got in and drove away before I got close, and that was the only sad part for me, because I would have loved to tell you how impressed I was with your cat ownership. And, gosh, I would love to know other pet owners like that, even if we have different species! After all, we were out there, apparently, for the same reason: to give our animal companions an opportunity to practice behaviors that are immensely enriching and satisfying for them, in a natural environment, without hurting any other animals.

I hope to see you out there again sometime!

With massive respect,

Nancy Kerns, and Woody, Boone, and foster dog Maeve

Can Dogs Burp?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Dogs can burp, and overeating, eating too fast, and digestive issues can cause belching.
Eating too fast, such as might occur if there’s competition to get to the food bowl, can cause burping in dogs. Credit: Robynne O’Halloran | Getty Images

Dogs, like humans, can experience a variety of bodily functions that may seem unusual, and one such phenomenon is burping. While we often associate burping with humans, dogs are also prone to releasing gas from their stomachs in the form of belches. These burps, while generally harmless, can sometimes indicate an underlying health issue or, possibly, anxiety. Additionally, some burps may have an unpleasant odor, which raises the questions: What causes dog burps, and what makes them smell?

Dogs may burp due to:

  • Air swallowed while eating or drinking
  • Air swallowed when they are excited or anxious
  • Eating or drinking too quickly
  • Being prone to bloat
  • Battling diseases like GERD
  • Digestive issues, like diarrhea, vomiting, or a lack of appetite

Why Does My Dog Burp so Much?

Burping in dogs is a natural response to air that is swallowed during eating and drinking. Just like people, dogs ingest air as they eat, drink, exercise, or even when they are excited or nervous. This air builds up in the stomach and needs to be released.

Dogs that eat or drink too quickly are more likely to swallow excess air. This is particularly common with fast eaters, as in dogs that gulp down their food. Slow feeders, puzzle bowls, or spreading your dog’s food out on a flat surface can help slow them down and reduce the amount of air they swallow.

Additionally, when dogs eat or drink large qualities of food or water in a short time, their stomach can become distended, leading to burping. This is especially common in large breeds or dog breeds prone to bloating. Be sure to monitor your dog’s food and water intake and avoid allowing them to consume too much at once.

If you notice issues, try offering smaller meals more frequently. Some foods can contribute to gas and bloating in the stomach as well, leading to more frequent burps. Diets high in fat, dairy, or fiber can ferment in the digestive tract and cause gas buildup.

Certain digestive issues or conditions may also cause your dog to burp more frequently. If burping is accompanied by other symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, or lack of appetite, it is best to consult your veterinarian for a diagnosis and treatment.

Smelly, Sulphur Dog Burps

While burping itself is a normal bodily function for dogs, smelly burps can sometimes indicate an underlying issue. The odor of your dog’s burps can vary depending on a variety of factors, including your dog’s diet and health status. Strong-smelling foods, like fish and certain types of proteins, can cause foul-smelling burps in dogs. Additionally, foods that are difficult to digest, like dairy and high-fat foods, can contribute to foul smelling gas.

An imbalance in your dog’s digestive system, known as dysbiosis, can be to blame for stinky burps. If your dog has an overgrowth of bad bacteria, it may result in the production of sulfur-containing gasses, which have a rotten egg odor. If you notice sulfur-smelling burps, probiotics can be used to help restore balance to your dog’s digestive tract. Work with your veterinarian to choose the right probiotic.

Dogs with GERD

Dogs with gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD), or acid reflux, may have burps that smell like sour or rotten food. This happens when the stomach acid travels back into the esophagus, often causing discomfort and foul-smelling belches. If your dog has symptoms of GERD, such as burping, regurgitation, or vomiting, consult your veterinarians. They may recommend medications or dietary changes to alleviate the condition.

Burping is a normal and common occurrence for dogs, especially after mealtimes. It is usually a harmless way for dogs to expel air from their stomach. However, persistent or excessively smelly burps may indicate an issue that requires attention. If your dog’s burping is frequent, accompanied by vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, bloating, or other signs of discomfort, consult your veterinarian.

Identifying and Treating Staph Infections in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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Staph infections in dogs can lead to patchy skin, hair loss, and potentially more serious infections.
Staph infections in dogs require veterinary attention, especially since the condition can worsen without treatment. Credit: Nanthicha Khamphumee | Getty Images

Skin infections caused by Staphylococcus bacteria are relatively common in dogs. The most common skin infection caused by Staphylococcus is canine superficial pyoderma, or superficial staph infection. Left untreated, this can progress to canine deep pyoderma, or deep staph infection. The prefix “pyo-” refers to pus and the word “derma” means skin.

 

Symptoms of a Staph Infection in Dogs

Symptoms of a superficial staph infection include patchy alopecia (hair loss) and the presence of papules or pustules and epidermal collarettes. A superficial staph infection begins as small, flat red circles on your dog’s skin called macules. As the condition progresses, the macules become raised bumps called papules. If a papule fills with pus, creating a small white dot in the middle of the raised red circle, it is called a pustule; in humans, we’d call this a pimple.

Staph infections can be pruritic (itchy) and you may notice your dog scratching or licking at these lesions. Scratching or licking at papules and pustules causes them to rupture and release clear fluid from papules and pus from pustules. When that clear fluid and pus dries, the papules and pustules become covered with a crust. If your dog continues licking and scratching at these crusty red circles, the circles get bigger and develop scales or flakes along the edge. These are called epidermal collarettes.

Symptoms of a deep staph infection include pain, swelling, crusts composed of blood and pus, and draining tracts of blood and pus from deep within the skin. Your dog will not want to have affected areas of his skin touched. He may have a decreased appetite, be lethargic, and have a fever.

Diagnosing Staph Infections in Dogs

Skin infections caused by Staphylococcus bacteria are diagnosed by skin cytology, bacterial culture and sensitivity, and ruling out other causes of similar skin lesions in dogs.

Your veterinarian will want to start with two different types of skin cytology tests: an impression smear or skin swab cytology and a skin scrape cytology. An impression smear is obtained by pressing a clean microscope slide against the affected skin. Alternatively, a piece of tape or a sterile moistened swab can be pressed against affected skin in places that are hard to reach with a microscope slide. The contents of the tape or swab are transferred to the slide, stained, and examined under a microscope.

Skin scrape cytology is used to look for Demodex and Sarcoptes mites in the skin. A sterile surgical blade is used to scrape the first few layers of skin from a small area of a lesion. The layers of skin are transferred to a slide and examined under a microscope. Demodex mites live in the hair follicles and can cause demodicosis. Sarcoptes mites burrow into the top layers of skin and cause sarcoptic mange. Both mites create skin lesions that look similar to a staph infection.

Your veterinarian may also want to examine your dog’s skin under a Wood’s lamp. Some fungal species that cause dermatophytosis (ringworm) may fluoresce an apple green color under the light of a Wood’s lamp. A fungal culture and PCR test may also be recommended to help rule out dermatophytosis as a cause for your dog’s skin lesions.

If this is not the first time that your dog is being diagnosed with a superficial staph infection, your veterinarian may recommend a bacterial culture and sensitivity. This is a test to confirm that Staphylococcus is the bacteria causing your dog’s skin infection and determine the correct antibiotic selection.

There are several ways to collect an appropriate sample for a bacterial culture and sensitivity. Your veterinarian may prick a papule or pustule so that its contents can be collected on a culture swab. If all of the papules and pustules have already been ruptured and transformed into epidermal collarettes, your veterinarian may lift the crust from over a collarette and swab the lesion underneath.

If your dog has a deep staph infection that is not responding to the antibiotic prescribed, then your veterinarian may want to obtain a small skin biopsy sample for bacterial culture and sensitivity. This can be done with a light sedative and a numbing agent applied around the affected skin. A tool called a biopsy punch is used to quickly obtain a small sample through all the layers of skin. A biopsy punch is like a cookie cutter, but it is only a few millimeters wide. Your veterinarian will close the biopsy site with a single suture.

Bacterial culture and sensitivity tests typically take 3 to 5 days to complete at a commercial laboratory. Bacteria are cultured and grown from the samples provided and then identified. Then the bacteria are tested against several antibiotics to determine which drugs should be most effective at resolving the infection.

Treating Staph Infections in Dogs

Staph infections are typically treated with a combination of oral antibiotics and medicated shampoos, mousses, sprays, or ointments. There is increasing evidence that superficial staph infections may be treated effectively with just medicated topical therapy without an oral antibiotic. Deep staph infections require an oral antibiotic.

Dogs with superficial staph infections should continue treatment until 7 to10 days after the resolution of their symptoms. For most dogs, this means that the duration of treatment is at least 3 to 4 weeks.

Dogs with a deep staph infection should continue treatment until 2 to 3 weeks beyond the resolution of their symptoms. For most dogs, this means that the duration of treatment is at least 6 weeks.

Prognosis for Dogs with Staph Infections

Staph skin infections in dogs are caused by an overgrowth of the bacteria Staphylococcus pseudintermedius. Your dog’s skin naturally has yeast and bacteria growing on its surface. This population of yeast and bacteria is called the normal skin flora. It is part of the skin’s immune system and keeps yeast and bacteria from growing on the skin surface that can cause your dog harm.

A staph skin infection caused by Staphylococcus pseudintermedius is always secondary to an underlying skin condition. Underlying skin conditions that can lead to a staph skin infection include demodicosis, sarcoptic mange, flea allergy dermatitis, dermatophytosis, canine atopic dermatitis (CAD), hypothyroidism, and hyperadrenocorticism. Your veterinarian may recommend completing a diagnostic workup, including certain skin and blood tests, to determine the underlying cause of and prognosis for your dog’s staph skin infection.

Dogs with a deep staph infection are at increased risk for developing sepsis. This is especially true for dogs that are immunocompromised or that are taking immunosuppressive drugs, such as steroids. Sepsis is a serious and life-threatening condition in which a dog’s body responds inappropriately to an infection. Thankfully, sepsis is a rare sequela to a deep staph infection.

Most dogs make a full recovery from a staph skin infection. Keys to a successful recovery include:

  • Identifying the underlying skin condition that allowed the staph skin infection to occur in the first place
  • Completing all treatments as prescribed by your veterinarian, even if your dog’s skin issue has resolved before treatments have been finished

The imprudent use of antibiotics has led to the development of Staphylococcus pseudintermedius strains that are resistant to one or more antibiotics. Antibiotic-resistant strains of this bacteria are known as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus pseudintermedius (MRSP). This is not the same as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) in people. Effective resolution of MSRP will require aggressive treatment with oral and topical antibiotics and frequent monitoring by your veterinarian.

Are Dog Staph Infections Contagious to Humans and Other Dogs?

All dogs have the bacteria Staphylococcus pseudintermedius as part of their normal skin flora. Therefore, a staph skin infection is not contagious to other dogs in the home. Pets that reside with a dog that has been diagnosed with MSRP are not likely to develop a staph skin infection unless they also have an underlying skin condition.

Staphylococcus pseudintermedius prefers dogs and has a limited life span on human skin. Healthy people are unlikely to contract a staph skin infection from their dog. However, immunocompromised people may be at increased risk. Talk to your doctor if you are immunocompromised and your dog has been diagnosed with a staph skin infection.

Can Colloidal Silver Help My Dog?

By
CJ Puotinen
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Colloidal silver for dogs is a controversial, but possibly effective anti-microbial agent.
Before using colloidal silver on your dog, research available products carefully and consult your veterinarian. Credit: varchiklena | Getty Images

Silver has been used in medicine for at least 6,000 years. According to “History of the Medical Uses of Silver” by J. Alexander in the June 2009 issue of Surgical Infections, silver was the most important antimicrobial agent available before the introduction of antibiotics. During the 20th century, colloidal silver was widely used to treat corneal ulcers, eyelid inflammation, tear duct infections, bacterial infections resulting from childbirth, systemic staph infections, tonsillitis, and other conditions. Surgeons used silver sutures to prevent surgical site infections. Between 1900 and 1940, tens of thousands of patients consumed colloidal silver and several million doses were given intravenously. While those therapies were generally considered safe, high doses could cause permanent skin discoloration, gastrointestinal disturbances, convulsions, or even death.

Colloidal silver products, which may be labeled silver hydrosol, silver sol, or silver water, vary according to the size, form, and concentration of their silver particles. Nanoparticles typically range from 1 to 100 nanometers in size while picoparticles are substantially smaller. The smallest particle sizes are said to improve bioavailability, speed absorption, and improve cellular-level interactions.

Ionic silver, which is different from but often confused with colloidal silver, contains dissolved silver ions, which are transparent and look like water because they lack visible particulate matter. Ionic silver solutions may be more likely to cause adverse side effects such as argyria (an irreversible blue-gray skin discoloration) if consumed or applied in excess or over long periods.

One concern about colloidal silver is that if it successfully treats viruses, bacteria, and other pathogens, those organisms may develop a tolerance that reduces silver’s effectiveness. According to I. Chopra in the April 2007 issue of Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy, “Silver’s growing popularity has been largely due to the spread of methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and the resultant reduction in first-line antibiotic prescribing.” He states that while there is little evidence that silver treatments for infections result in bacterial resistance, silver product testing suffers from a lack of standardization for determining minimally effective concentrations. Concern about the colloidal silver industry’s lack of standardization is echoed in other published studies.

Because of insufficient scientific evidence supporting its use, the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced in 1999, “All over-the-counter (OTC) drug products containing colloidal silver ingredients or silver salts for internal or external use are not generally recognized as safe and effective and are misbranded.” Since then, the FDA has sent warning letters to numerous silver product manufacturers for making unproven medical claims.

Silver’s Veterinary Uses

Despite the FDA’s warnings, pet health testimonials for topical and oral colloidal silver products make them sound like cure-alls, treating everything from canine cancers and skin infections to cuts, abrasions, burns, wounds, digestive problems, urinary tract infections, all types of inflammation, ear infections, eye infections, and allergies.

Colloidal silver products intended for topical pet use include creams, ointments, gels, sprays, and bandages impregnated with colloidal silver. For ear and eye infections, typical label instructions recommend spraying affected areas 2 to 4 times a day. Colloidal silver ear flush products can be applied to the ears and wiped with cotton daily or more frequently.

Oral products include drops, tablets, sprays, and capsules. Directions for pet use vary by product, but many recommend feeding 1 teaspoon liquid colloidal silver per 25 pounds of body weight twice or three times per day. Some warn that this protocol is recommended only for short-term rather than long-term use.

Silver products are usually stable at room temperature, remain effective indefinitely, and do not require refrigeration.

So little published research has been done on the pet applications of colloidal silver that it’s impossible to confirm the implications of anecdotal reports. Well-designed double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials that settle arguments will probably never be conducted on colloidal silver. However, some research describes colloidal silver as a natural antibiotic.

In January 2023, the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association published “Efficacy of a Silver-Based Shampoo for Treatment of Canine Malassezia: A Pilot Study” by S. Jones and P. Bloom. Malassezia is a common cause of dermatitis in dogs and the condition has resisted antifungal treatments. In the experiment, 14 infected dogs were bathed every 48 hours for up to 28 days with a silver nanoparticle-based shampoo that was left in place for 5 to 10 minutes each time. Nine of the treated dogs tested negative for Malassezia by day 14, and by day 28, eleven dogs (78.6%) were cytologically negative. “These results,” concluded the researchers, “suggest that silver nanoparticle-based shampoo may be effective in the treatment of canine Malassezia dermatitis. Larger, controlled studies are needed to further investigate efficacy, optimal concentration, and ideal application frequency.”

Colloidal Silver for Dogs Is Controversial

Quality control and accurate labeling are essential in any analysis of the benefits and risks of colloidal silver. Unfortunately, many products are inaccurately labeled, making comparisons difficult. “Comparative Analysis of Commercial Colloidal Silver Products” by A. Kumar and D. Goia in the December 22, 2020, International Journal of Nanomedicine, tested 14 of the most popular silver products sold on Amazon.com. They concluded, “The results of this evaluation show clearly that 70% of the commercial products evaluated contain only ionic [not colloidal] silver. Despite the evidence showing that silver nanoparticles are not present, eight of these products are promoted by the manufacturers as ‘colloidal silver’. Considering the extensive scientific research showing major differences between silver ionic and silver nanoparticles in terms of mechanisms of action, efficacy, and safety, it is clear that this misrepresentation impacts the consumers and must be addressed.”

In April 2004, the Journal of Wound Care reported results of in vitro tests of colloidal silver’s antimicrobial activity against several pathogenic or microorganisms. Three samples of colloidal silver were tested, one a commercial product sold online (silver concentration of 22 parts per million) and two samples (concentrations of 403 and 413 parts per million) that were prepared in the researchers’ laboratory using standard chemical methods. None of the tested colloidal silver solutions showed any antimicrobial effect in vitro on microorganisms. The study concluded, “Claims of silver’s antimicrobial potency are misleading and there is no place for it as an antiseptic.”

Nonetheless, some dogs have recovered quickly from infections, burns, and minor wounds after treatment with colloidal silver. “I have heard MANY anecdotal reports of successful topical use for various bacterial or yeast issues,” says Erika Spath, Vice President of Nutrition at EarthWise Pet, a holistic pet supply franchise, “though this use is not supported by research quite yet. In my opinion, clinical experience still holds value and suggests that colloidal silver may be a helpful tool in certain contexts, particularly for topical applications. I recommend that pet parents consult with their veterinarians before using colloidal silver, especially on open wounds or for internal use, to ensure its safe and appropriate use.”

Suggestions for Use of Colloidal Silver on Dogs

If you’d like to experiment with colloidal silver, study labels, product claims, and online reviews. Contact manufacturers for additional information. Talk with dog trainers, dog friends, and health experts for their experiences and recommendations. Learn what you can about products that might treat your dog’s condition and follow label directions. Consulting your veterinarian is especially important if your dog takes prescription medications because silver may interact with drugs and alter their activity. As Spath advises, “Prioritizing safety, carefully reviewing product labels, and making informed choices are key to ensuring the best outcomes for your pets.”

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