Your dog may be eating leaves because he’s bored. The concern is whether those leaves contain toxins.
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More to the point, can your dog eat leaves? In most cases, the answer is no! Some leaves are toxic. Most leaf chewing is done in an exploratory way by puppies, and they aren’t really going all out and “eating” leaves. Dogs may also chew on leaves out of boredom.
For example, foxglove and oleander contain digitalis-like toxins that may affect the way heart’s ability to beat normally. With oleander, even one or two leaves could be fatal to your dog. There are even accounts of dogs dying after drinking from a water bowl that had oleander leaves blown into the bowl.
Many plant leaves are not deadly for dogs, but their leaves may cause gastric irritation, diarrhea, and vomiting.
Locust tree leaves may be deadly. Oak leaves are not usually deadly, for example, but can cause lots of gastrointestinal symptoms.
Can dogs run and play in leaf piles? Yes, and many dogs love to do that. Be aware, however, that the leaf pile may contain fleas or ticks because they gravitate to those piles too. While playing in a leaf pile, your dog may grab and toss leaves, but they don’t usually ingest them.
Sticks seem to be an attractive play toy. Many dogs chew on sticks because they are handy, especially if your dog is out in the yard and bored, and because you throw them. While a sturdy, non-toxic stick may be relatively safe for your dog to chew on, if he is ingesting wood that can cause problems down the road. Sticks from poisonous trees and plants are toxic, so unless you know for sure, it’s best if your dog doesn’t play or consume stick pieces.
Despite the fun your dog can have with a stick, it is best to avoid getting your dog “hooked” on them. Dogs have knack for getting short pieces of sticks stuck on the roof of their mouth. You will see your dog drooling, panting, and pawing somewhat frantically at his mouth. If your dog is relatively calm, you may be able to remove this yourself but if he is frantic, be careful or you may get bitten by accident.
There are many horrifying tales of dogs running with sticks and accidentally impaling themselves. Those injuries can range from minor emergency room visits to serious surgeries or even death.
How to Stop Dogs From Chewing on Sticks
In addition to adding plain pumpkin to your dog’s diet, make sure your dog has plenty of safe chew items.
Sturdy chew toys can safely take the place of sticks. For my dogs, Kong products tend to survive the best. Most “tough” stuffed type toys are destroyed quickly. West Paws toys also hold up well. Even with these tough toys, I try to check every day or so for any ripped off areas or places where the dogs are chewing little pieces off.
Many commercial weed killers contain ingredients that are harmful to dogs. However, there are some pet-friendly options—commercial and DIY—that can help keep your yard weed-free and dog-safe. Credit: Akifyeva Svetlana | Getty Images
Well-designed research studies show that conventional lawn care exposes dogs to herbicides like 2,4-D and glyphosate (Roundup), increasing their risk of developing bladder cancer, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, multicentric lymphoma, and other malignancies.
Risk factors include the frequency of herbicide applications, the chemicals involved, proximity to agricultural land that is routinely treated, and geographical location. In August 2025, the Dog Aging Project reported that its survey of 47,444 dogs across the United States gathered from January 2020 to December 2023 compared environmental exposures to health outcomes in four regional areas. Regular weed control corresponded with adverse health outcomes in dogs living in the South and Midwest more than in the West or Northeast. This finding corresponds with a 2019 NBC News map of toxic herbicide application by state.
Alternative Weed Killers That Are Safer for Pets
Rather than chemical herbicides, organic garden stores offer weed-killing products with safer ingredients such as:
Vinegar (acetic acid, household or concentrated for horticultural use)
Sodium chloride, sea salt, table salt, pool salt, or Epsom salts
Citric acid or lemons
Essential oils used in aromatherapy
Iron sulfate
Corn gluten meal
These ingredients disrupt cell walls, cause dehydration and nutrient imbalances, or suppress weed seed germination. Soap, fatty acids, and sodium lauryl sulfate are used as surfactants to mix ingredients and break down surface tension, helping sprays penetrate leaves.
Differences between brands depend on ingredient combinations and their concentration. For example:
Espoma Organic Weed Preventer contains 100% corn meal gluten, which prevents the growth of common weeds while adding nutrients to grass.
An Experiment with Pet-Friendly Weed Killers
The author sprayed a DIY formula on part of a persistent thistle patch, with visible results. Credit: CJ Puotinen
For years, Montana thistles have thrived in my yard. This year I tried pet-friendly herbicides, starting with Spruce, which contains surfactants and essential oils. I followed label instructions (air temperatures were above 60 degrees F, the weather was sunny, and the ground was dry) but even though I applied the weed killer hours before rain came (the product claims to be rain-proof 10 minutes after application), and even though results looked dramatic within an hour (weeds wilted and turned grey), my thistle patch quickly revived and looked vibrant.
After watching several DIY weed-killer videos, I mixed 1 cup of pool salt with 1 gallon 30% horticultural vinegar, 2 tablespoons dish washing liquid, and 3 gallons water in a battery-operated garden sprayer. On that hot, dry August day I sprayed thistles and other weeds, staying far from lawn grass. Within an hour, the sprayed plants wilted and died. A month later, they are still dead.
Easy DIY Formulas for Pet-Friendly Weed Killers
There are also dozens of do-it-yourself pet-friendly weed sprays, all of which are less expensive than commercial brands. To apply them, use a garden watering can, hand-held sprayer, or battery-operated spray tank. Double or triple ingredients to create larger quantities.
Basic Vinegar Weed Killer
Combine 1 gallon distilled white vinegar (the concentration sold for household use) with 1 cup salt (any type) and 1 tablespoon dish soap.
Mix in a clean sprayer and apply to weeds. Protect nearby plants from overspray that will kill them, too. Most weeds will wilt and die within 24 to 48 hours.
Repeat for tough or resistant weeds.
Epsom Salt Blend
Combine 1 gallon vinegar with 2 cups Epsom salts and 1/4 cup dish soap.
Pour into a spray bottle and apply to unwanted plants. Use around patios and walkways but not near lawns.
Vinegar-Baking Soda Blend
Combine 1 gallon vinegar with 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 teaspoon dish soap.
Vigorously shake to mix the ingredients, then spray thoroughly on weeds.
Borax Weed Killer
Mix 1 cup Borax (laundry additive) with just enough water to create a sticky paste. Wear gloves while mixing.
Use pruning shears to cut target weeds to the ground, leaving a small stump.
Apply the paste generously to freshly cut stems. This cut-and-paste method works best on large, semi-woody weeds like thistles. Keep the paste away from plants you don’t want to damage.
Essential Oil Weed Killer
Mix together 1 tablespoon essential oil (any combination of clove, peppermint, wintergreen, orange, citrus, and/or cinnamon) in a spray bottle with 1 tablespoon liquid soap and 1 gallon water.
Shake well to combine ingredients and spray on weeds.
Alcohol Weed Killer
Combine 3 cups vodka (ethanol) or rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol with 2 teaspoons dishwashing liquid.
Spray to cover weeds.
Cornmeal Pre-Emergent Weed Killer
Prevent weed seeds from germinating by spreading cornmeal gluten labeled for use on lawns and gardens around flower beds and paths. This will not affect existing plants but prevents new weed growth.
Boiling water is recognized by the S. Environmental Protection Agency as an effective spot treatment for weed removal. Simply pour boiling water from a pan or tea kettle over weeds to cover them completely.
Another way to provide damaging heat is with a flame thrower, which is best used immediately after rain or watering, when there is minimal danger of spreading a fire.
Safe Application of Pet-Friendly Weed Killers
Use common sense when applying weed killers, even those considered pet safe. If recommended, wear rubber gloves, clothing that protects your skin, and, in breezy weather or when using strong concentrations, a face mask.
None of the products mentioned here claim to be safe for pets to touch or lick when first applied. Dogs should be kept indoors or away from treated vegetation until it has completely dried. Most surfaces should be safe for pets to walk on or near after 12 to 24 hours unless labels instruct otherwise. None of these products make weeds taste better, so it would be unusual for most dogs to consume them, but because swallowing treated weeds is not recommended and salt or other residues can irritate canine paw pads, redirect your puppy’s attention away from recently treated areas.
Tips for Best Results with Pet-Friendly Herbicides
Before applying a pet-friendly weed killer, prepare the area by trimming tall weeds so herbicide solutions can reach exposed leaves and stems. If possible, treat weeds during midday under direct sun, when temperatures are high, and when no rain has fallen for a few days. Follow label directions, most of which recommend saturating weeds from leaf tips to roots. Thirsty weeds absorb weed killers quickly and results are obvious within an hour or two. Multiple treatments may be needed, so be ready to reapply weed killers if plants recover or new weeds sprout.
Conditions that interfere with a treatment’s effectiveness include cool temperatures, high humidity, recent rain, or rain after treatment.
Deep-rooted weeds resist most nontoxic weed killers, so hand-pulling from damp ground, such as after rain, is an effective removal method.
Keep weed killers away from plants or grass that you want to preserve. This is especially important when using products that contain salt, borax, or concentrated vinegar, which can spread from treated areas to grass or desired plants and damage them. Salt- or borax-treated areas can become sterile so that nothing grows there until the soil is replaced.
Your Pet-Friendly Weed Control Calendar
Time of year can affect the best ways to manage weeds in your yard. Here are some seasonal tips for pet-friendly weed control:
Autumn doesn’t mean that weed season is over—in fact, it’s just beginning. September and October are ideal months for targeting perennial weeds before dormancy. Use spot treatments after raking or mowing leaves. Overseed lawns with native grasses to crowd out existing weeds. Helpful autumn ingredients include vinegar, salt, citric acid, clove oil, and citrus essential oils.
Winter weeds are usually dormant, but some cold-hardy annuals may appear in mild climates. If weeds appear in paths or patio cracks, apply boiling water or vinegar spot treatments. Salt blends are useful where decorative plants won’t be growing next spring.
Spring brings life, along with sprouting weeds, to lawns and gardens. Focus on prevention and weed removal. Apply pet-safe pre-emergent products like corn meal gluten and apply vinegar, boiling water, essential oils, or citric acid to inhibit weeds.
Summer warmth supports rapid weed growth, especially perennials. Spot treat weeds with natural sprays. For patios and cement cracks, apply boiling water or salt-based sprays. Summer’s heat maximizes the effectiveness of vinegar, salt, and essential oils in pet-friendly sprays.
Not sure which weeds you have or which are annuals or perennials? See
Balancing exercises for your dog build core strength and are fun for both you and your dog. Credit: Chris Mueller | Getty Images
All dogs can benefit from dog exercise of some sort, but especially canine conditioning, as it’s appropriate for canine athletes as well as senior couch potatoes and everything in between and beyond, including puppies.
Last summer, I helped a client keep her pup physically exercised while we were going through an intense heat wave in my area. Walks in her neighborhood were out of the question due to hot pavement. The yard was great for short ball play, but the dog needs more than that. That led me down the rabbit hole that is canine conditioning, and I am hooked on this subject. I had no idea that there were so many ways to physically condition dogs with simple but effective exercises like what humans do.
Obviously, before you begin any sort of exercise program for your dog, get approval from your veterinarian. Knowing what to avoid for your pup is important to staying safe, especially if you have a dog with even a tiny bit of arthritis or any kind of joint issues. It also helps to obtain at least a baseline education on dog anatomy. Puppies should not be participating in anything that involves jumping, running on hard surfaces, or balancing until their bones are fully formed.
For dogs who can do cardio, that is a great part of a fitness program. Cardio is anything that uses more lung capacity such as running, swimming, jogging, fetch, agility, and other dog sports. But cardio alone is not canine conditioning.
Fast twitch muscles are utilized in short but intense movements such as the zoomies, intense tug exercises, jumping stair climbing, juking back and forth, and so on.
Canine conditioning for dog sports generally includes specific strength training and/or stretching exercises for the individual sport that a dog is participating in. While strengthening the muscles needed for that sport, it is important to consider the SAID principle, which is equally a consideration for human physical conditioning and strength training.
SAID stands for Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demands. It is believed that muscles, tendons, ligaments, and bones respond to purposeful stress by getting stronger. The physical patterns that are used in each sport being replicated by training gets the body used to those movements. In dog behavior modification, we call this creating new nerve patterns. I expect that it will be similar here. See this website for more on this subject
Now let’s delve into how some of these strength training/stretching exercises can be done at home, even if your dog is not participating in sports. Truly, all dogs can benefit from strengthening their core and muscles.
Stretching Exercises for Dogs
Natural stretches: You can capture your dog stretching when they do it naturally by using a marker word or clicker, if they already know what that means. Once they understand what you are marking, you can put it on cue. My puppy often moves into a sit from a down in to stretch his upper body and his neck, as well as stretching his front legs out with his toes extended. These are excellent stretches to capture. Some people teach their dogs to offer a play bow on cue, and that is also a stretch. The possibilities are nearly endless. Once you mark the behavior consistently, name it to put it on cue.
Figure 8s: Walking in figure 8s like you might do in Rally or zigzagging through weave poles are also versions of stretching. If you’re not training agility, you can lure your dog through poles with either a treat in your hand or a target stick to start. That will also work with figure 8s. Placing objects that you want to curve around for figure 8s will help your dog better understand this process.
Balancing Exercises for Dogs
Teaching your dog to place all four paws on a stable surface is how you start this process. Most dogs already have some sort of cue or even just an inclination to jump up on raised surfaces. If your dog doesn’t, make sure that the initial surface is low enough to not be uncomfortable for that dog. I simply use an “up” cue. Once this is mastered, consider a less stable surface such as a pillow for a small dog or the couch or a large dog bed for a larger dog. The trick here is to work with the dog standing on that surface rather than laying down.
If you have not already taught your dog to stand on cue, start there. I use a flat hand, palm down with fingers tight together, and move my hand face down horizontally from the dog’s nose when they are seated with a small treat between my fingers. I mark the moment that the dog is on all fours and then food reward and then add the cue word when it’s consistently being followed. Make sure that your dog feels safe on the surface with all four paws before you add the cue for this. Balancing uses their muscles in such a way that they strengthen their core. If your dog is more athletic, use a balance/wobble board or even make one with a hard flat surface with a ball underneath one end.
Strengthening Exercises for Dogs
A popular exercise in puppy classes is puppy pushups (also called “puppy aerobics”). This is one of the easiest ways to strengthen your dog with low impact. First get that sit, and then the down. Repeat. You can add a stand in there as well for even more strengthening exercise. Make sure that you are naming/marking/rewarding each step.
If you have ever taken a fun agility class, you have likely seen some of the equipment that can double as conditioning equipment. These include wobble boards, low-set teeter totters, the A-frame (lowered), weave poles, low jumps, ladder walks, and the like. All of these tools help teach body awareness.
Not all of these are right for all dogs needing conditioning, of course. Puppies and senior dogs don’t need to do jumps, teeter totters, or anything that can affect mobility issues. Wobble boards can scare some dogs so there are other options that can achieve the same results such as the soft surfaces mentioned above. Ladder walks teach paw/spatial awareness and help with stability control.
Physical conditioning exercises will keep your dog in top shape while exercising both their body and mind. It’s important to make all the exercises fun with treats for a job well done, never over face your dog with too many repetitions or obstacles he’s not ready for, and—of course—safety first.
An anemic dog may ignore formerly enticing games—like a ball rolling by—because he lacks energy. Anemia seriously reduces blood oxygen levels.
Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images
Anemia in dogs is defined as a deficiency of red blood cells. Red blood cells deliver nutrients and oxygen to cells and organs and carry carbon dioxide to the lungs to be exhaled. Without adequate red blood cells, your dog’s heart and lungs go into overdrive to try to make up for the lack of oxygen in the dog’s body and keep the body functioning. Anemia is serious.
What Causes Anemia in Dogs?
A healthy dog has a nice balance of new red blood cells being produced in the bone marrow and obsolescent and damaged cells being extracted in the spleen. Any disease that reduces the production of new cells or hastens the destruction of red blood cells can cause anemia. Disease, trauma, and parasitic infections can cause anemia.
How Do I Know My Dog Is Anemic?
With a lack of circulating red blood cells, your dog’s heart and lungs are working overtime to try make up for body’s oxygen deficit. Most dogs with anemia will be lethargic, often not interested in usual fun activities or only able to do them for a short time.
A dog battling anemia may show:
Pale gum and mucous membrane color
Slow capillary refill time
Lethargy
Weakness
Lack of appetite
Increased heart rate
Increased respiratory rate
How Is Anemia in Dogs Diagnosed?
Diagnosis of the cause will start with bloodwork, a tick-disease panel, fecal analysis, and a thorough physical examination, including checking for external parasites. More extensive testing might include imaging studies or a bone-marrow aspiration.
What Causes Anemia in Dogs?
Obviously, heavy blood loss, such as from trauma, will result in anemia, but anything that causes inadequate red blood cell production in the bone marrow will result in anemia. Common causes include:
Parasites: Heavy loads of parasites, both internal and external, can cause anemia in a puppy or any dog in poor nutritional status.
Autoimmune disease: Anemia may be related to autoimmune diseases. In these cases, your dog’s body attacks and destroys its own red blood cells.
Ulcers: Other causes include slow gastrointestinal bleeding associated with stomach or intestinal ulcers.
Urinary disease: Chronic blood loss through the urinary system can result in anemia.
Chronic illness: Any disease, like kidney or liver disease, can result in inadequate red blood cell production in your dog. Depending on the cause, some dogs may bleed from various orifices.
Cancer: Not surprisingly, some cancers interfere with red blood cell production, such as leukemia. Others may cause dangerous major blood loss such as bleed-outs of hemangiosarcoma masses in the liver or spleen.
How Do I Treat Anemia in My Dog?
True anemia is not something you can just treat at home. You will need veterinary assistance, prescribed medications, and possibly a blood transfusion for your dog. Veterinary treatment will aim at eliminating or controlling the cause of anemia.
Corticosteroids and immune-modulating medications will be necessary if the cause is an autoimmune disease. In some cases, these medications may be temporary and tapered off, but some dogs will need to stay on them for life.
Erythropoietin is a substance made by the kidneys that helps to stimulate red blood cell production. Injections of erythropoietin may help to speed recovery.
A healthy, well-balanced diet is important in treating anemia. Most dogs do not have iron deficiency, but if your veterinarian feels it is warranted, iron may be prescribed.
Depending on the exact cause, anemia may be a treatable condition, or it may be a sign of a potentially fatal health condition, like cancer.
An irritated anus can be extremely uncomfortable for a dog. Keeping the area clean, applying warm compresses, and using pet-safe medications can help soothe irritation and itchiness while you determine the source of the issue. Credit: Vincent Scherer | Getty Images
Things you never thought you’d do an internet search for, right? But if your dog keeps licking his butt, he’s going to need a little help from you to get some relief. When a dog’s anus is red and irritated, the key is to soothe those delicate tissues without causing harm and then get to the bottom of the problem.
Quick Relief for a Dog’s Irritated Anus
When it comes to how to soothe your dog’s irritated anus quickly, you can provide some relief safely and easily at home using the following methods:
Clean the affected area with a warm, damp cloth or pet-safe wipes.
Many of the causes of anal irritation are messy. If your dog has dried poop, scabs, or pus on his back end, removing this debris can make him feel a lot better. Be gentle when cleaning, as an irritated butt can be painful. It may help to soak caked-on debris to soften it before trying to remove it.
Apply a warm compress.
Hold a warm, damp cloth over the irritated area for 5-10 minutes. This can help to soothe your dog’s anus. It is better to err on the cooler side with the compress, as applying a hot cloth could burn the sensitive skin and cause more damage. You can test the temperature on your wrist or lips—if it’s too hot for you, it’s too hot for the dog.
Apply a pet-safe ointment.
If you have a pet-safe ointment on hand, you can apply a thin layer to the irritated area around the dog’s anus. I really like Veterinus Derma GeL for any small wound—it is easy to use, safe if the dog licks it, and provides both some antimicrobial effect and pain relief.
Why a Dog Might Keep Licking His Butt
For long-term relief, you will need to figure out why your dog’s anus is red and irritated. Some common reasons include:
Diarrhea
Diarrhea isn’t fun. It is uncomfortable and repeated episodes of diarrhea can irritate your dog’s anus. Loose poop getting stuck in the hair and on the skin around the anus only worsens the discomfort.
If your dog is having diarrhea, make sure his bum is clean each time he finishes pooping. A damp cloth can handle small messes but washing off with a hose outside or in the bathtub may be necessary for bigger catastrophes. Keeping his skin clean will help to prevent further irritation.
Diarrhea can be caused by many different things, ranging from eating something foolish to intestinal parasites or viral illnesses. If your dog overall seems happy and healthy, you can withhold all food for 12 hours and then feed a bland diet for a day or two. If the diarrhea lasts more than two days, it’s time to make a vet appointment. Diarrhea and vomiting at the same time is an emergency.
Anal Gland Issues
The anal glands are two sacs located just inside your dog’s anus. Normally they express a little stinky liquid each time your dog defecates. But sometimes they can become overfilled, impacted, or even infected. This is uncomfortable!
The classic sign of anal gland issues is a dog scooting his butt across the ground. Your dog may also lick or chew at his rear end in an effort to relieve the pressure. Scooting, licking, and chewing all irritate the skin around the anus, and can make the discomfort worse.
Minor anal gland impactions can be resolved with manual expression. You can learn to do this yourself at home or you can schedule an appointment for your vet or a vet tech to do it. Manually expressing the anal glands relieves the pressure from the overfilled gland, allowing your dog to get back to business as usual. The color, odor, and texture of the contents can also tell your vet if your dog might have an infection or other problem with the glands.
While waiting for a vet appointment, you can soothe your dog’s irritated anus by applying a warm compress for 5-10 minutes several times a day. This will provide some pain relief and may help to loosen the anal gland contents and make your dog more comfortable.
For many dogs, this is a one-time misfortune. However, some dogs are prone to chronic anal gland issues and may need regular manual expressions, increased fiber in their diet, or in rare cases a surgical procedure. If your dog is frequently scooting his butt or chewing at his back end, it’s time to call your vet.
Allergies
While humans with allergies sniffle and sneeze, dogs scratch and chew. The butt, ears, and paws are common areas where dogs with allergies get red, itchy skin.
If your dog has seasonal allergies, you will only notice his perianal area being irritated at specific times of year. For example, early fall is a common time for many dogs’ seasonal allergies to flare up. Other environmental allergies—such as allergies to dust, indoor allergens, or trees—can be a problem year-round. Food allergies are also consistent and do not let up with the changing of the seasons.
Your veterinarian will help you determine if your dog’s itchiness is due to allergies and parse out whether the cause is likely food, environmental allergens, or a combination of both. She will also diagnose and treat any secondary infections that may have taken advantage of your poor dog’s compromised skin.
Food allergies are treated with diet trials to determine which ingredient(s) give your dog trouble. It can take several months to see complete improvement, but stay the course—it will be worth it once you know what foods your dog tolerates best.
Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) is an easy way to provide relief for some dogs experiencing an itchy butt from environmental allergies. A general guideline for dogs is one milligram of Benadryl per pound of body weight (meaning a 25-pound dog would get one 25mg tablet) but call your vet to get an exact dose for your dog. Loratidine (Claritin) and cetirizine (Zyrtec) are also helpful for some dogs.
Unfortunately, many dogs with environmental allergies require a more robust, dog-specific treatment plan to keep them itch and irritation free. This may include medicated shampoos, the monthly injectable medication Cytopoint, or the tablets Apoquel or Zenrelia. It can take some trial and error to determine the best treatment plan for your dog, but his itch-free butt will thank you for your persistence.
Fleas
Fleas can bite anywhere on a dog’s body but often focus on the hind end. Each bite is itchy, and dogs with flea allergy dermatitis will experience dramatic swelling, redness, and itchiness all along the back end of the body from even a single bite.
If your dog’s anus is irritated and itchy due to a flea infestation, the solution is to give your dog a bath with Dawn dish soap and then give a prescription-grade flea preventive medication for three consecutive months. Don’t forget to vacuum your house and wash bedding thoroughly to remove any flea eggs or larvae hiding there.
Perianal Fistula
Perianal fistulas are painful draining tracts that can occur around a dog’s anus. You will notice an extra hole or two that has a bloody or pus-like discharge. If you suspect your dog has perianal fistulas, it’s time to make a vet visit.
Perianal Tumor
Dogs can get cancer near the anus. Tumors in this area are more common in intact male dogs, and neutering can often resolve the issue if it is a benign tumor. Malignant tumors and ones in female or neutered male dogs will likely require surgical removal.
While waiting for a vet appointment, you can provide relief for your dog’s anus by applying a dog-safe ointment to the irritated area.
When To See a Vet About a Dog’s Irritated Anus
A dog who keeps licking his butt should see a vet if:
He is having diarrhea for more than two days, or has other signs of illness (diarrhea and vomiting is an emergency)
He scoots his butt frequently
He has sores or wounds around the anus
There is bleeding or draining pus coming from anywhere around the anus
Itchiness and irritation persists
He has a new lump in the area that seems to be bothering him
Dogs can be hard on the furniture but finding the right couch cover can help. The best couch covers for dogs are water- and stain-resistant, don’t slip, and can be easily cleaned. Credit: Branko Mihailovic | Getty Images
When my 14-year-old dog Harper was in her last months of life, I bought a white sofa. She no longer had the ability to jump on the sofa and wasn’t interested in using her steps. And when she was gone, it was our plan to be dogless for a couple of years while we traveled. So why not get a white sofa?
Well, mainly because even without a dog sprawling on it every day, it still got dirty fast. And the vow to not get another dog right away? Pfft. That lasted all of two months. Then Sparkles came to live with us. At a young 10.5 years, she had no problem jumping on the sofa.
I used a lot of makeshift covers to protect the sofa: throws, sheets, quilts, large tablecloths purchased inexpensively at Home Goods. Why didn’t I buy an actual sofa cover? From past experience, they never looked very attractive and they didn’t stay on well. But when I received this assignment to review sofa covers, I was happy to discover that manufacturers have taken those criticisms to heart. The best couch covers for dogs now come in a number of styles and colors suited to most decors and are designed in various ways to be nonslip.
What We Looked for in Couch Covers for Dogs
Fit: A good sofa cover doesn’t look sloppy. It’s easy to put on or remove and, depending on the style, provides good coverage of all or most of the sofa.
Features: The best options have non-slip backing or adjustable straps that hold them in place and are water- and stain-resistant.
Ease of Cleaning: Life with dogs can be messy so suitable couch covers should be able to be machine washed and dried and still looks good afterward.
Attractiveness: It helps if the cover comes in a variety of colors, patterns, and styles to suit multiple decors and sofa designs.
Note: Be sure to measure your sofa thoroughly and call before ordering to make sure you get the correct size. Even if returns or exchanges are free, it’s still a hassle to package and mail the wrong one back.
In an attempt to get an additional cover to review, I ordered one from a company whose website said it was Surefit, a well-known sofa cover brand that is sold through Amazon, Chewy, Wayfair, Lowes, and other retailers. This one appeared to be based in Eastern Europe and I was billed $1,500 (approximately 221,000 Japanese yen) instead of the $15 it was supposed to be. I disputed the charge immediately with both the credit card company and PayPal, with a satisfactory resolution—after a couple of nail-biting weeks. While I usually like to order direct from the manufacturer, this was a rare instance where that wasn’t a good idea.
75” and 86”
Colors: stone blue, khaki, burgundy, ivory, black
This high-quality, reasonably-priced option provides good protection and cleans up easily. The visible straps aren’t the best look and it may not fit well on longer sofas.
Also covering the couch cushions only, this option is inexpensive, scratch- and water-resistant, and easy to put on and remove. However, the chemical smell and unattractive appearance are drawbacks.
Overall Best Couch Cover for Dogs: Orvis Grip-Tight Furniture Protector
Our top pick for best dog-friendly couch covers, the Orvis Grip-Tight Furniture Protector does a great job protecting the sofa. However, it may be more heavy-duty than necessary for small dogs who don’t make much of a mess. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
The Orvis Grip-Tight Furniture Protector has a quilted design on the seat section. It’s made of 90-percent recycled polyester and has a non-slip backing to hold it in place. The machine washable cover is lined with a water-resistant membrane to protect from spills or accidents. A fur-masking microweave is supposed to keep it looking cleaner, longer, but I have to say that a Sparkles dust bunny showed up on it pretty quickly, even though she had just had a bath.
I sent my sofa measurements to the Orvis representative and asked them to choose the appropriate size. After I wrestled it onto the sofa, the heavy-duty cover fit well and is sturdy enough to stand up to big, roughhousing dogs. One buyer noted that their dog couldn’t pull it off the sofa or move it out of place. If you have large dogs or a dog who likes to “nest” or “dig” on the couch, this may be the cover for you. It’s also a great choice for dogs who like to rub up against furniture, depositing their skin oils—like my late Greyhound—or lick furniture, a habit Sparkles indulges in.
To test its water-resistance, I spilled a glass of water on it. It beaded right up, wiped away easily with a towel, and didn’t soak through to the cushion below. I also took the opportunity to use the damp towel to pick up loose hairs Sparkles had deposited.
I like that the arm covering hangs most of the way down the sofa—I think this feature could make it appealing not only for dog lovers but also for people with cats who scratch the side or arms of the sofa. However, the front panel is short and would do a better job of keeping the sofa clean if it covered the entire area.
For people with big drooly dogs, multiple dogs, or puppies in the chewing/accident stage, I think this cover is probably well worth the money. It is possibly overkill for Sparkles, though. Cushion protectors, chair protectors, and throws are also available.
Best Couch Cover for Small Dogs: Dovercourt Diamond Sofa Slipcover Reversible 100% Waterproof Box Cushion Sofa Slipcover
The Dovercourt Diamond Sofa Slipcover is well-made and stood up nicely to being cleaned. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
The Dovercourt Diamond Sofa Slipcover was the first sofa cover I tested. Unfortunately, even after taking detailed measurements of my sofa, I did not request the correct size. Or it might not have been available—I discovered that was the case with a lot of covers. Apparently, an 88-inch sofa is longer than the norm. A strap that went over the back held it in place. The ends of the strap are visible where it wraps around the sofa, which isn’t the most attractive look, but throw pillows can help to hide them. Throw pillows also helped to keep the too-short arm covers from falling over. I also tried it on my neighbor Cathy’s sofa, which is not quite as long as mine, and it fit much better.
Shortly after it arrived, Sparkles had her teeth cleaned and for a couple of days afterward she had diarrhea. I had put the cover on our bed to protect it in case of any late-night accidents. Fortunately, we were spared that, although I did find some small brown spots. After going through the washer and dryer, the 100-percent polyester cover was stain-free and looked like new.
This is a good quality cover at a reasonable price of $37.99. It gets good reviews from buyers. One wrote: “My sofa is extra-long, so I had to order two slipcovers in order to have my sofa protected. They are very nice, made well and would certainly recommend them!” So apparently mine isn’t an uncommon problem. Another says, “They go on and off easily so I can remove them when we have company.” Critics said, “It slips around and needs reseated a lot,” and “Don’t recommend if you have a leather sofa.” The latter may have been more of a fit issue or perhaps a big-dog issue. Cathy’s sofa is leather and with the strap in place, the cover stayed on with no problem.
My own quibble is that because it’s polyester, it’s easy to get too hot after sitting on it for a while. Overall, though, I think it’s a good choice.
Best for Basic Coverage: Your Cool Pet Store Soft Couch Cover for Pets
In spite of not being waterproof, the Your Cool Pet Store Soft Couch Cover for Pets offered good basic coverage and was easy to clean. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
The Your Cool Pet Store Soft Couch Cover for Pets covered only the seating portion of the sofa, not the back cushions, front, or sides. However, it was easy to put on and take off, stays in place well, and comes in three sizes and a variety of colors. The plush polyester quilted velvet is comfortable to sit on, although it might be too warm for summer use, depending on whether your body temperature runs hot or cold. The manufacturer describes it as “breathable for summer, warm for winter.”
The drawback is that it’s not waterproof. That makes it not the best choice for a young puppy or an incontinent adult. To check for stain resistance, I spilled a little wine on it and threw it in the washing machine. It came out looking like new. I like it overall but knocked off half a star for lack of waterproofing and because it covers only the cushions. The maker does have other versions that are waterproof.
Best Budget Couch Cover for Dogs: Whisker Bark Sectional Sofa Dog Cover
While somewhat lacking in the looks department, the Whisker Bark Sectional Sofa Dog Cover is a sturdy, affordable option. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton
The Whisker Bark Sectional Sofa Dog Cover was another cover made only to protect the cushions, although purchasing a second one would allow the buyer to drape it over the back cushions, protecting them as well. The budget price would make that financially feasible. Like the other cushion cover, it was easy to put on and remove. A non-slip lining keeps it in place. It’s described as scratch-resistant, so I took a steel-pin slicker brush and scraped away at it. No marks or tears resulted.
“It looks like a bathmat,” my husband said when I pulled it out of the box. I think with its salmon-orange color, the thin polyester-blend couch cover was supposed to resemble leather, or at least faux leather. It did not. However, the length was appropriate.
It had a chemical odor right out of the box, so I started by spilling some tea on it for the waterproofing test. It pooled on the top, did not soak through, and wiped up easily. Then I threw it in the washing machine and dryer. Afterward, the odor was gone and there were no wrinkles or stains.
Despite not looking like much, overall it was sturdy, water-resistant, and easy to use. If you are a bargain hound and need only a cushion protector, this is the couch cover for you.
Whether it’s protecting them from the elements or helping ease anxiety, dog clothing has a number of practical purposes. Credit: Alexander Pytskiy | Getty Images
Dog clothes, pup apparel, canine costumes, and pooch gear are a booming market.
The American Pet Products Association tells Whole Dog Journal that nearly one in four dog parents have clothes for their dog, and that number has increased 35% in the last few years.
Veterinarians say dog clothes can serve practical purposes, and industry experts say apparel and gear designed for dogs can help keep them safe and even enrich the bond between you and your pooch.
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Do Dogs Need Clothes?
While a dressed-up pup in a costume can look cute for a social media post or annual holiday card, many dog clothes serve essential purposes.
Sun and Heat Protective Dog Clothes
There are entire clothing lines of vests, suits, visors, hats, and even nose protectors designed to shield dogs from the sun’s harmful rays, but not all dogs need these kinds of safeguards.
“The average, darker pigmented-haired dog with a dark colored nose does not need that protection,” says veterinarian Mitzi Clark, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.
But hairless breeds like the Chinese Crested or dogs missing fur due to medical problems may be at higher risk of developing skin cancer—as their hair helps protect their skin from the sun’s rays—and may benefit from protective clothing.\
“The white pit bull who has a pink nose, sparse hair on their belly, who’s going to sunbathe, or the dog that doesn’t have hair, because they’re a hairless breed—maybe, especially if you live in Arizona,” Dr. Clark says.
“If those dogs are going to spend time outside and if they’re not going to have sunscreen, clothing that has SPF protection could be useful.”
Some of the sun shield clothing is also designed to keep a dog’s body temperature lower in hot weather; they’re typically called cooling suits or vests.
When the temperature drops from sunny summer to snowy winter, it’s time for some dogs to sport fleeces, coats, snow gear, and booties. Should your pup bundle up?
“Some older dogs do need clothes for warmth, because they’ll start to lose muscle mass or could have an underlying health condition that makes it harder for them to generate and maintain warmth,” Dr. Cohen says. “It’s like the 90-year-old grandma who’s wearing her sweater outside in the summer.”
Dogs with little to no hair, or a pooch that appears to be unhappy in the cold, may need protection from the chilly elements.
“Shivering is a dead giveaway,” Dr. Cohen says. “If they’re trying to go back inside right away, or they’re reluctant to walk, or vocalizing outside with whining or barking for no other obvious reason, those may be the telltale signs that they’re just uncomfortable with the temperature.”
Dog Clothes to Improve Mental and Physical Health
Some pet parents swear by weighted, calming vests, and ThunderShirts, which are supposed to take the edge off their dog’s anxiety. The clothing wraps around a dog like a coat while applying pressure to their body. The theory is that the vest-like shirts have a calming effect, like a parent swaddling a baby.
There are also “spay suits” or recovery clothing, which can be a reasonable option to the dreaded “cone of shame” after surgery. These pajama-like outfits cover the incision area and sutures so your dog can’t lick or scratch them. (If a dog is very intent on getting at their stitches, the cone of shame may be necessary.)
With any dog clothes, always supervise your pooch so they don’t chew or ingest any material, and of course, ensure they’re comfortable.
Why Have Dog Clothes Gotten So Popular?
Some industry experts attribute the massive growth in the dog clothing market to the exploding number of pet owners who are treating their dogs like family.
Tapping into that human-dog bond, Ruffwear’s product lines, popularity, and business have expanded exponentially in the last three decades. The company is now a global brand sold in 52 countries.
“Our growth has come purely from our curiosity about how else can we create a connection between dogs and their human companions,” Kearns says. “We really exist to be able to enable adventure, and we want to bring the connection that dogs and humans have together to the outdoors, and we want to do that in a way that empowers both the dog and the human.”
The company also makes specialized gear that goes beyond protecting your dog from the rain or snow, tapping into the massive number of people bringing their dog on outings, saying, “I’m so glad we included our dog…” instead of, “Our dog would have really loved this…”
“We have products that allow people to get on stand-up boards with their dogs for the first time,” Kearns says. “If you have a small dog, an elderly dog, or maybe a tripod who has a hard time going many miles on a hiking trail, we have a pack that you can carry that dog with. We have boots that enable them to go into areas where maybe it’s obsidian and very sharp rock or hot sand.”
Of course, the key to making sure dog clothes, outerwear, and gear are enjoyable for your pup is to ensure you have the right dog measurements for a perfect fit.
How To Measure a Dog for Clothes
When you order dog clothes, there’s always the dreaded moment where you have to get out the tape measure and get your dog’s measurements. Some take off running, others think the measuring device is a toy, or they won’t stand still.
It’s essential to pay close attention to a company’s clothing size guide when you order. Different retailers’ sizing may vary. A medium in one brand may be totally different than another.
“From a fit standpoint, it’s going to be dependent on the dog,” Kearns says–and shares some dog measuring tricks of the trade.
How To Measure a Dog’s Girth
Kearns says accurately measuring your pup’s girth is key to getting a good fit. Be sure your dog is standing on a completely flat and level surface.
A dog’s girth can be determined by measuring the widest part of the torso. This is usually right behind the dog’s elbow. Credit: Carolyn O’Connor
“Measure around the widest part of your dog,” Kearns says. “Generally speaking, that’s right behind the armpit of the dog. It’s going to be a little bit different on each dog, but kind of find the broadest or the widest circumference, and that’s where you want to measure–that’s your starting point for the measurement.”
Each product will have some variation in the fit, and the dog’s fur type is also a factor.
“If you have a dog with longer, fluffier hair, tighten it (the tape measure) up a little bit so that you can kind of compress that fur a little bit; know that the true fit of the product is going to be, against the dog’s body, not kind of out where the fur might come to,” Kearns says.
How To Measure a Dog’s Height
To figure out your dog’s height, measure from the ground to the point where the neck meets the shoulder blades. Make sure the dog is standing squarely on a flat surface. Credit: Carolyn O’Connor
To measure a dog’s height, keep them on that flat, level surface and as still as possible. “Give them a little peanut butter and they’ll stay in place,” Kearns says. “That’s going to be the trick to get a good measurement for just about anything.”
Locate the highest point where the dog’s neck aligns with their shoulder blades. Use a tape measure or a yardstick to measure the distance between that point and the ground where they’re standing.
How To Measure a Dog’s Length
Since dogs come in all shapes and sizes, you may want to measure their length to see how the clothing will fit on their body.
To get a sense of how a clothing will fit on a dog, you can take a measurement from the base of the dog’s neck to the base of their tail. Credit: Kate O’Connor
“Measure from the base of the neck to the base of the tail to understand where that dog jacket is going to land on your dog,” Kearns says. “If you want to size up a little bit, because you want it to go a little bit longer on the dog’s back, you can do that. If you want to size down a little bit, then you can shorten up a little. So always start with the girth measurement and then use those other measurements as kind of a reference point for how it will look on your dog.”
If you notice a non-healing lesion on your dog, you might try one of the treatments in our article, like chlorhexidine. But, if it doesn’t heal, you need veterinary help. Credit: Yellow Garnet Photograph | Getty Images
Ringworm on a dog appears as a dry, hairless, circular spot, while a hot spot tends to angry, red, moist lesions that are itchy.
What does ringworm look like on a dog? Ringworm causes small, circular, hairless patches. You may notice scales or crusting, possibly with a red outline on the patches. These tend to be “dry” lesions. While ringworm may be itchy, it is generally a mild pruritus. If it’s itchy, there may be a secondary infection. Note: Ringworm is highly contagious to you and other animals.
Angry, red, moist lesions that are painful and itchy
Contagious
Yes to other animals and humans
No
Common Causes
Contact with another infected animal, bedding, or soil
Fleas, allergies, wet undercoat such as from swimming
Treatment
Antifungal medications
Antibacterial cleansing solutions
Both disease processes may appear on the head and neck, with hot spots often showing up under a dropped ear or on the hip or groin area as well. While ringworm is a primary skin problem, hot spots have an underlying cause such as allergies or flea infestations.
Treatment of Hot Spots in Dogs
Treatment for a hot spot is relatively uncomplicated. Because the lesions are “wet,” you want to dry the area. Start by trimming the hair around the hot spot. Long hairs will delay healing and irritate the sore area. Hot spots are painful, so enlist a helper to restrain your dog and consider the use of a muzzle.
Chlorhexidine is a popular medicinal antibacterial cleaning solution. Clean gently, then dry gently. Your veterinarian may recommend an ointment or a powder (foot powder often works well). If the site was badly infected, antibiotics may be dispensed. A low, tapering dose of a corticosteroid may be prescribed to help with the pruritus (itching).
Pain medications may be dispensed for the first couple of days post diagnosis. It is important to keep your dog from going back and licking and chewing at the hot spot again. An Elizabethan collar may be necessary.
Try to determine the underlying cause, which is likely fleas or allergies. Treat those to prevent recurrence (getting rid of fleas is not easy). However, it may be something as simple as not drying your dog completely after a swim on a hot, humid day.
Treatment of Ringworm in Dogs
Treating ringworm is more complicated due to its contagiousness. You may need to treat all your pets. If you only have the one dog, you can try isolation to contain the fungus.
The hair itself may have fungal spores, so you need to clean and disinfect the house thoroughly. Vacuum and mop daily, taking precautions to keep you ringworm-free as well. All bedding, toys, bowls, and grooming tools need to be frequently and carefully cleaned.
Antifungal baths and topicals may work for a limited infection caught early on, but most dogs will need a prescription for an antifungal medication.
Both these skin infections use require the help of a veterinarian. Delaying the help of your vet with makeshift remedies will make treatment longer and more difficult.
In addition to being comfortable for the dog, a good collapsible dog crate should be easy to use, clean, and transport. Credit: Jae Thomas
A collapsible dog crate can be a godsend. If you travel with your dog regularly and they’re used to sleeping in a crate at night, having a foldable option you can bring along makes things easier for both you and your pup.
Dog sport enthusiasts will also often use collapsible dog crates at trials for agility, scent work, dock diving, and rally to keep their dog contained (and rested) while they wait for their turn to compete.
Whether you’re going on a trip or taking your dog to do something fun, a collapsible, portable dog crate will give your pup a designated place to rest while you’re on-the-go.
Traits We Want in a Collapsible Dog Crate
Ease of use: A collapsible dog crate should be easy to take down and put up. Ideally, one person should be able to do the setup, take down, and transport of the crate. The best collapsible crates can be assembled in 2-3 minutes or less.
Easy to clean: Collapsible dog crates should also be easy to clean. Since they’ll be traveling with you in most cases, collapsible crates will likely get dirtier than their stationary counterparts that stay in the home, so washable materials are best.
Portability: A collapsible dog crate should fold down to a size that’s easy to get in and out of a car. Bonus points go to crates that have carrying handles or other features that make them easy to transport.
Size range: All sizes of dogs can benefit from collapsible crates, so we gave extra points to options with large size ranges, so you can travel with your Chihuahua or your Great Dane.
Before you pick a collapsible crate for your furry friend, make sure you’ve brushed up on crate training techniques with your dog trainer and have measured your dog to find the right size crate for them.
3.5 paws Midwest Lifestages Double Door Folding Dog Crate
Starting at $39 22”, 24”, 30”, 36”, 42”, 48” This folding wire crate isn’t perfect, but it’s fairly durable, decently easy to put up and take down, and is budget friendly. While it isn’t the easiest to transport, it’s workable.
This folding wire crate isn’t perfect, but it’s fairly durable, decently easy to put up and take down, and is budget friendly. While it isn’t the easiest to transport, it’s workable.
The EliteField 3 Door crate comes with built-in door covers, so you don’t need to bring an extra sheet or blanket to cover your dog. It’s also washable and comes with a handy carrying bag and a fleece crate pad.
Small (28.5”), Medium (34.6”), Intermediate (421.2”), Large (45.3”)
Revol Dog Crate folds down and sets up in seconds and has two doors, but it’s heavy, expensive, and has a few other minor quirks that eliminated it from our list of winners.
The Orvis Hose-Off crate is quite sturdy as a soft crate and comes with a plush fleece bed. It’s a bit heavier and bulkier than the EliteField option on this list and lacks some of the extra details the EliteField boasts. It’s also pricier.
Best Collapsible Dog Crate: Midwest Lifestages Double Door Folding Dog Crate
The Midwest Lifestages Double Door Folding Dog Crate is sturdy, budget-friendly, and easy to use but can be a bit cumbersome to transport. Credit: Jae Thomas
Wire crates can be a pain, but there’s a reason they’re so popular. They’re durable enough to contain most dogs who are properly crate trained, are fairly quick and easy to assemble and disassemble (minus some occasional finger pinching), come in a huge variety of sizes, and are budget-friendly in comparison to other crate options.
The Midwest Lifestages Double Door Folding Dog Crate is one of the most popular dog crates on the market and it held up well during testing. It’s not so lightweight that dogs can easily escape from it, but it’s not so heavyweight that it’s a pain to move around. It folds down to a reasonable size but can be loud in the car due to rattling of the metal.
It has a front door and a side door so you can orient it in different ways and has a pan that can easily be pulled out and cleaned if needed. This crate also has a paw-blocking feature which prevents your dog from tampering with the door latch while they’re inside.
The Midwest Lifestages crate ranges from $39 to $84 depending on the size chosen, so it’s one of the sturdier yet still affordable collapsible dog crate options.
Despite the downsides, a wire crate is the best option for most families and most dogs, given their low cost, size ranges, and decent durability and portability.
Most Durable Collapsible Dog Crate: Impact Collapsible Dog Crate
If your dog chews on wire crates or simply needs something sturdier, the Impact collapsible crate is a good option. Credit: Jae Thomas
If your dog is sure to escape from (or destroy) a soft-sided or a wire crate, the Impact Collapsible Dog Crate is the way to go. This heavy-duty option is made of high-grade aluminum and is wildly sturdy. It also meets air travel guidelines for pet owners who may need to travel with their dog in the future and comes with a lifetime warranty.
This crate is fairly easy to set up—once you’ve learned to do it properly. The top of the crate, which needs to be unlatched and pulled straight up to assemble, is quite heavy. Those who aren’t strong or mobile may not be able to carry or assemble this crate comfortably by themselves.
Although it folds down well and is extremely durable, the Impact crate is heavy enough to make it difficult to transport. Credit: Jae Thomas
When folded, the crate is fairly streamlined, though it’s bulkier and heavier than other crates on this list. It ranges from 28.5 pounds up to 70 pounds depending on the size chosen, so it’s not a lightweight option. However, it does come in a 54” size, making it one of the best large collapsible dog crate options on the market—ideal for owners of XL and giant breeds.
The Impact crate is very secure and even calming for many dogs. I use this crate when I take my Collie to dog shows and because of the more enclosed design, I find that she stays calmer and rests better than if she were in a crate she could fully see out of on all sides (like a wire crate). It features a lock on the front (with matching key), which I use if I’m going to be away from the crate for any period of time.
The biggest downside of this crate, aside from the weight, is the high price. It ranges from $764 up to $2,167, so it’s a huge investment.
Best Collapsible Soft Crate: EliteField 3 Door Folding Soft Crate
If your dog is trustworthy and doesn’t chew on or escape from crates, a soft crate like the EliteField 3 Door Folding Crate is a lightweight option. Credit: Jae Thomas
As someone who travels to dog sports events frequently, the EliteField 3 Door Folding Soft Crate is my favorite soft crate option. It’s lightweight, easy to assemble and disassemble, and completely washable. Both the inner bed cover and the crate cover itself can be put in the washing machine for easy cleaning.
My favorite features of this crate are the built-in door covers, which are great for dogs who settle more easily when their crates are covered. This crate also comes with a carrying bag that has a long shoulder strap on it, making it easy to bring along while traveling.
The EliteField 3 Door Folding Crate includes built-in door covers, making it easy to give a dog a more secluded space to rest. Credit: Jae Thomas
Like most soft crates, this isn’t the most durable crate option and shouldn’t be used for puppies or dogs who chew or escape their crates. Because it’s so lightweight, dogs who move around a lot could also potentially flip it over while they’re inside. A soft crate is best for dogs who are calm and well-acclimated to their crates and who won’t chew on fabric or zippers.
My one qualm about this crate is that the inner fleece bed it comes with isn’t the best quality. My dog tends to dig at bedding while she gets comfortable and the bed this crate came with has already seen some wear and tear from that. I usually bring along a second, more supportive bed to put in this crate, especially when I’m doing extended traveling with my dog.
Other Collapsible Dog Crates We Tested
Diggs Revol Dog Crate
I wanted to love the Diggs Revol Dog Crate. It has a variety of cool, useful features, like wheels for easy transport, wildly quick assembly/disassembly, and a side door that moves up and down garage style.
However, this crate is heavy, bulky, and inconvenient to travel with. When collapsed, there’s nothing that keeps it folded, so it can be a pain to move around. The wheels on the bottom, though a great idea, aren’t always super functional. They’re very small and prone to getting stuck in cracks or on rocks/other debris, and are very loud when used on hard surfaces like concrete or asphalt. The side door could also open/close smoother.
With a price range from $500 to $1,050, I’d expect some of these quirks to be ironed out.
Orvis Hose-Off Folding Travel Crate
The Orvis Hose-Off crate is well-made but comes with few extra features and is more expensive than other similar options. Credit: Jae Thomas
When it comes to soft-sided, collapsible dog crates, the Orvis Hose-Off Folding Travel Crate is sturdier and feels a bit more well-made than the EliteField option, but it’s also bulkier, heavier, and more expensive. Despite having heavier, sturdier poles inside and thicker material, it still won’t contain a dog who wants to get out of a soft crate.
If your dog is well-behaved in a soft crate, the cheaper, lighter EliteField is a better value, and comes with extra features the Orvis model doesn’t have (like a carrying bag and built-in door covers).
Feeding dog dental diet can help, but dog dental care isn’t that simple. Including daily teeth brushing and dental chews rounds out a strong dental-care plan for your dog.
Credit: Wavetop | Getty Images
When it comes to dog dental care, a holistic approach that combines nutritional care, thoughtful home care, and proven products is essential. Periodontal disease affects an overwhelming majority—over 80% according to the Cornell DogWatch newsletter—of dogs 3 years old or older. Addressing plaque buildup before it hardens into tartar, or calculus, is one of the best ways to keep your pet’s mouth healthy and support not only oral, but systemic health. While daily tooth brushing remains the gold standard for at-home oral hygiene, adding a dog dental diet or treats to support dental health and VOHC-approved products can make a substantial difference between veterinary cleanings. If you’re looking for the best dog teeth cleaning products, we addressed that in our article on the best toothpastes for dogs.
Before we discuss the ins and outs of feeding your dog to promote dental health, it’s important to recognize that, no matter what you are feeding, whether it is a dental kibble or raw bones, it is not a complete substitute for veterinary dental care, and some dogs may still develop periodontal disease despite chewing regularly. For this reason, involving your veterinarian and implementing a comprehensive approach is best. We recommend:
Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth: Tooth brushing with dog-safe, Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC)-accepted toothpaste. remains one of the most effective ways to control plaque, and even raw-fed dogs benefit from this routine.
Feeding a Dog Dental Diet: This should be discussed with your veterinarian to ensure you choose the right food for your dog.
Providing Safe Chews and Additives: Natural chews, water additives, oral gels, and powdered meal toppers can also be added to the regimen without conflicting with a fresh feeding philosophy.
By combining these evidence-based strategies, including safe chewing options and thoughtful diet composition, you can help maintain your dog’s dental health and protect them from health issues linked to periodontal disease. Now let’s discuss what you need to know about each product.
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Dog Dental Food
Dog dental kibbles are formulated to support oral health in multiple ways. These kibble diets are typically larger, denser, and structured to encourage chewing with the goal of mechanically scraping plaque from the molar teeth. Ingredients such as insoluble fibers, like cellulose, help make the kibble tougher and provide it integrity during chewing, maximizing the amount of time it can convey cleaning action on the teeth.
Some dental diets may also include chemical agents, such as polyphosphates or zinc salts, which help inhibit the hardening of plaque into tarter. These combined physical and chemical strategies can help keep calculus from forming on teeth and slow the progression of periodontal disease.
The VOHC Seal of acceptance indicates that the product has undergone an independent review of professionals to determine its impact on the reduction of plaque and tartar buildup on teeth. The VOHC was established in 1997 under the umbrella of the American Veterinary Dental College to evaluate products claiming to reduce plaque and tartar.
While the VOHC does not conduct trials themselves, they review data from at least two independent, statistically significant clinical trials. To earn the seal, a product must demonstrate at least a 15% reduction in plaque or calculus in each trial, with an average reduction of at least 20%. Products meeting VOHC standards may earn recognition for plaque control, tartar control, or both, making this seal a trusted marker for pet parents and veterinarians alike.
These chews come in different shapes, textures, and sizes to suit dogs of varying breeds and chewing behaviors and are formulated with tooth safety, solubility, and digestibility in mind. This is beneficial as it means they are not hard enough to break or damage teeth and are soluble and digestible enough that they do not pose a high risk for a gastrointestinal obstruction if large pieces are swallowed.
Best Non-Traditional Dog Food for Dental Health
Many dog owners are moving away from feeding traditional kibble and are exploring fresh-feeding, low-carbohydrate nutrition, and natural chewing strategies for dental care. Supporting dental health without kibble is possible, but it requires thoughtful planning and an understanding of both the benefits and potential risks.
A low-carbohydrate diet may contribute to oral health by reducing the amount of sugar that oral bacteria feed on. While kibble is convenient and has proven dental formulations, many options on the market are starch-heavy, since carbohydrates are needed to form dry food.
High-carbohydrate diets can increase the availability of substrates for bacteria that contribute to plaque buildup and tartar formation. Lincoln Naturals offers freeze-dried dog food that has very low levels of carbohydrates, ranging from 2% to 3%. Bones & Co and Primal Pet Food offer formulas for dogs in both fresh and freeze-dried forms, with the formulas varying in carbohydrate ranges. Although scientific research on carbohydrate restriction and oral health in dogs is still limited, anecdotal evidence from raw feeders and holistic veterinarians suggests that these diets can support cleaner teeth and fresher breath.
Best Dog Chews for Dental Health
Raw meaty bones add another layer of dental care by providing natural mechanistic abrasion. The act of gnawing, tearing, and chewing works to scrape away plaque and stimulate gum tissue, much like a natural toothbrush. Raw poultry necks, wings, feet, and similar softer, pliable bones are often chosen because they are less likely to fracture teeth than dense weight-bearing bones from large animals, or antlers. However, raw bone feeding must always be approached with caution. Cooked bones should never be offered, as they can splinter and cause dangerous internal injuries.
Even with raw bones, risks remain, including broken teeth, gastrointestinal upset, or obstructions can occur. Because of this, it is important that bones and chews be size-appropriate and fed under supervision. Even smaller, softer natural chews, such as bully-sticks, can fracture teeth. My dog, Samson, shattered a molar on a bully stick just a few months ago. Fractured teeth are painful and can result in infections and abscesses, so it is important to check your dog’s teeth regularly for any issues.
A Pug’s facial design increases the dog’s chances of developing the eye disease pigmentary keratosis.
Credit: Clark and Company | Getty Images
Pigmentary keratitis occurs most often in brachycephalic dogs, like Pugs, although it can be seen in other breeds. In simplest terms, pigmentary keratitis is the buildup of melanin or pigment on the surface of the cornea. The pigment will appear brown or black. It can build up enough to block vision.
Irritation to the cornea stimulates the pigment deposits. This can be caused by eyelids that roll in, so the eyelashes or hairs rub on the cornea. It can be caused by eyelids that droop, allowing dust and plant material or irritate the cornea. In some cases, irritation is caused by abnormal eye lashes.
Less commonly, direct trauma to the cornea or the rubbing of even benign eyelid tumors may stimulate pigment production. Anything that interferes with blinking or tear production may also lead to corneal damage and pigment production.
The short muzzles of brachycephalic dogs, often with nasal skin folds, mean the hair is closer to the eye. The large, round eyes are open to irritants, including things like blowing dust.
Diagnosing Pigmentary Keratosis in Dogs
Your veterinarian can usually diagnose pigmentary keratosis during a routine office visit, but some vets may suggest referral to a veterinary ophthalmologist for the latest in treatment. Often, a fluorescein stain of the cornea will be done to check for any corneal ulcers that might accompany the pigmentary keratitis as that would mean adjustments in medications.
Can You Treat Pigmentary Keratosis in Dogs?
Many cases of pigmentary keratitis are managed medically. That means eye drops or eye ointments, often multiple times a day. Be sure to follow dosing directions exactly. Immunosuppressive drugs such as cyclosporine or tacrolimus are fairly standard. Artificial tears, as drops or ointments, may be added if your dog also has “dry eye” or a lack of tear production called keratitis sicca.
Along with medical therapy, surgical treatment may be suggested. This surgery is done on the eyelids to correct an eyelid that turns in (entropion) or droops outward (ectropion) or to remove abnormally located eyelashes. Excessive skin folds may be removed. Those corrections would prevent the constant irritation to the cornea. Your veterinarian may perform these surgeries themselves, or they may refer you to a veterinary ophthalmologist.
Preventing Pigmentary Keratitis in a Dog
Can you prevent pigmentary keratitis? Not really. When choosing a puppy, try to pick one with a less extreme “flat” face and search for breeders with more moderate dogs. If your dog has an extreme brachycephalic face, he will be prone to this eye disease.
If you notice any pigment moving onto the cornea, have it evaluated early on before any permanent visual damage is done.
Try to avoid dusty conditions. If you have fans blowing to keep your dog cool, mop or vacuum to reduce dust. Avoid fields during dusty and dry conditions or that have lots of plant material that could irritate the cornea.
A dog who shows signs of excessive licking should be evaluated for possible medical or behavioral issues.
I have often been asked by clients, “Why does my dog lick everything?” Sometimes the reasons are medical and sometimes they’re behavioral. In general, licking everything is normal puppy behavior resulting from exploration and learning about one’s environment. Of course, that does not make it desirable. Redirection rather than correction can prevent licking from becoming obsessive.
Aside from puppy licking, however, one must evaluate the context when determining whether licking the couch or licking the floor is a behavioral or a medical issue. Obviously, if you have a toddler (or a teenager!) and the furniture and the floor are catch basins for your offspring’s snack crumbs, then your dog is an opportunist and licking the floor and the couch for food fragments. That one is easy.
Why Does My Dog Lick Everything?
Insecure dogs often use licking as a signal of “I mean you no harm, please like me.” This is typically directed at the humans in the family, in varying ways. It can be directed toward the face or limbs or other parts of your body, even surfaces that humans are on. Licking behavior can also be directed toward other animal family members, including other dogs and even cats. Grooming the other animal family members can often be a part of that ritual.
Kiss to Dismiss is behavioral but for a different reason than listed above. This lick is a “go away” lick. It’s meant to create space between the dog performing the lick and the object of his licking. This can be directed at visitors, children in the family, even other animal family members. This is why context is important in determining the reason a dog is licking. (Dog behavior expert Jennifer Shyrock is responsible for coining the term “Kiss to Dismiss.”)
Pain is a common reason for your dog licking, including licking himself or his lips.
Gastrointestinal issues are one of the biggest causes of this issue. If the licking is sudden and urgent seeming, an immediate trip to a veterinarian is in order.
Nutritional deficiencies have been theorized to cause licking.
Dental pain as licking may be an attempt to self-sooth.
Neurological issues are also a potential cause. Context is important here as well.
Adrenal conditions like Cushing’s disease can cause odd licking behavior in dogs. Keeping a log of the context can assist your veterinarian with solving this puzzle.
First rule out medical causes with your veterinarian. Once medically cleared, you can consider meeting with a qualified behavioral consultant to help you with a plan to address the unusual licking behavior.
In addition to making sure that your dog is getting adequate physical and mental enrichment, the behavior plan should include how to properly redirect your dog’s attention while teaching them coping skills and better self-soothing options.
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