The new normal - not going into the clinic to talk to the vet face-to-face. It's not ideal, but there are ways to make it work better for you, your dog, and the doctor, too.
More than a year into living under the cloud of a worldwide pandemic, we’re all still dealing with lifestyle changes to stay safe. For most people, this includes not being able to accompany pets into the vet’s office as practices continue curbside service. Some dogs (and some owners!) are handling this reality better than others.
While COVID statistics in many states are finally trending in a better direction, it’s impossible to know exactly what the future holds or when veterinary practices will begin allowing clients back inside. The following tips will help you make the most of a challenging situation.
* Ask yourself: Is the visit absolutely necessary? At the height of the pandemic, many practices were limiting non-essential procedures, including spay/neuter surgery. While we’d never recommend denying care, if you’re comfortable, consider a watch-and-wait approach for minor issues.
Similarly, take extra caution to avoid accidents that would require veterinary care.
* Pass notes. Write down the information you’d like the vet to know about your dog’s current situation. Be concise! In many practices, a veterinary assistant will come out to your car and ask you some initial questions about your dog and his issues, before taking your dog inside for the vet to examine. Send your notes in with your dog. Then, the vet can read the notes before her examination, and discuss them with you when she calls or comes out to talk to you.
If you can’t be with your dog, at least send him inside with some of his favorite treats!
* Up your treat game. We may not be able to go inside to make sure our dog doesn’t get stressed or frightened, but we can at least send in something to try to make him feel better: High-value treats! The last time my dog needed a blood draw prior to a medication refill, I filled a plastic bag with cooked morsels of meat. I wrote, “Please be generous!” on the baggie, and handed it to the assistant as he trotted my dog inside. It must have helped, because Saber came out happy and licking his lips!
* Ask questions. If you don’t ask, the answer is always no. It won’t hurt to ask if the vet would be comfortable examining your dog outside, or if you can walk your dog to the door before handing him off. Advocate for your dog, but understand sometimes the answer is “No” – and be respectful. Practices are trying to keep everyone safe. When staff calls out sick with COVID, it can devastate a practice – especially a smaller one.
* Consider a mobile vet. In the case of gut-wrenching end-of-life decisions, ask your vet if she can refer you to a mobile practitioner who can safely assist you and your dog at home. This event is already difficult emotionally, but not being present with your dog for euthanasia may be even more traumatic.
* Practice and be prepared. For some dogs, vet visits are stressful under the best circumstances. Training cooperative care skills at home can alleviate some of the anxiety during vet visits. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy (fenzidogsportsacademy.com) offers excellent online courses for cooperative canine care. (Also, see “Cooperative Care: Giving Your Dog Choice and Control” WDJ February 2021.) If your dog is extremely anxious and considered a bite risk, train him to happily wear a muzzle that you apply before sending him inside. (See “Mellow Muzzling,” page 4.)
It’s easy to become frustrated by COVID-era rules. Take a breath and practice patience and kindness – not just with your dog, but also in your interactions with your highly valued veterinary health care team.
Veterinary care sure is expensive, isn’t it? And it’s even more so when we sabotage our own pet’s care.
Think that sounds crazy? You figure nobody would undermine the very approach they’d just paid top dollar for? Well . . . Have you ever:
* Been told to give your dog crate rest, but then you gave in and let her out because she barked all the time?
* Told the vet there have been absolutely zero dietary changes – but forget that the new Bark Box just came on Tuesday filled with new treats the dog gobbled up?
* Decide not to use that ointment the vet gave you because your dog kept licking it off?
* Cut the number of ear cleanings in half because your dog hated it so much?
Owners often spend considerable time researching veterinarians to be sure they are seeing the best practitioners, to be certain they’re doing right by their dogs. It’s a shame when the same owners fail to recognize that the success of that veterinary work is sometimes in their very own hands! Even the best veterinarian in the world can’t help a dog whose owner didn’t didn’t give the vet the full picture, didn’t quite understand the vet’s instructions, or altered the treatment plan at home.
In contrast, being an incredibly prepared, attentive, and conscientious client can help you get much better value out of any vet trip. Here’s how:
* FIRST, GET YOUR STORY STRAIGHT. There is a lot of hemming and hawing at the vet. “Um, let’s see, maybe it was last Thursday when I first felt that lump because I remember Aunt Sally was visiting – no, wait, that was the kitty’s lump…” That uncertainty leads to a more tangled (and expensive) path to diagnosis.
Before you head to the vet, take out a pen and a pad of paper. Ask yourself all of the questions you know full well the vet is going to ask you, such as:
• What happened?
• When exactly did it start? Since onset, has it gotten better or worse?
• Has it ever happened before?
• Could he have gotten into something?
• Any other changes?
• How’s his behavior otherwise?
• Anything new in your routine?
• Any travel?
• Any new foods? This includes not just the main diet but any treats or foods snuck to the dog by family members.
• Any other pets at home showing similar signs?
• And so on.
If you’re heading to an emergency clinic, and will be seeing a vet who’s not familiar with your dog’s history, write down the exact name of any current medications, because “Well, it’s an oval and I’m supposed to give it twice a day” is not super helpful. Or, bring the bottle with you!
In the heat of the moment, when pressed for answers, it’s easy to forget things. That’s okay! Just plan ahead; before the appointment, write down the important stuff. Bring your notes, and use them to give the vet a clear, concise picture of what’s happening.
* LISTEN TO THAT EXPENSIVE ADVICE. Once you’ve given that overview to the vet, it’s time for you to stop talking and listen. In fact, listen hard. A heck of a lot of trouble arises because people find they get home from the vet and think, “Wait, what did she say?” Then they guess.
Sometimes your head is spinning with worry at the vet, so it’s hard to take in information. Still, you typically have three shots at it: The first is when the vet talks to you; the second is when the discharge nurse goes over the instructions; and the third is when you look over what’s written on the paperwork. Oddly enough, people often space out during all three of those opportunities, even when this is exactly what they are paying so handsomely for.
Don’t do that. Even if you are stressed out about your dog, this is the time to focus.
* CALL BACK IF YOU’RE CONFUSED. I’m in a bunch of dog-related Facebook groups, which is why I can report to you that it is a very common thing to post something like this: “I went to the vet and they suggested X, Y, and Z. That seems wrong to me. What do you all think?” A cascade of advice follows from strangers on the internet, often contradicting the plan given by an actual veterinary professional who’s examined the dog and taken a detailed history.
If you’re confused by something the vet said, or if you actually disagree and are planning on not following the advice, just tell the vet right then and there! That way she has a chance to either convince you or come up with an alternate plan.
Perhaps you didn’t think of things you wanted to ask until you were on your way home, or after you got home. No worries! Call the veterinary hospital and ask for some clarification. A good vet will much prefer having that conversation rather than having the dog she sent off with a great treatment plan get nowhere near what he needs. Just keep in mind that your vet will likely not be available when you call, so just leave a detailed message up front so she can call you back with an answer.
* DO NOT IMPROVISE. The vet does not give you extra instructions just for the fun of it. If he says to give the meds on an empty stomach, don’t decide it’s fine to do it at mealtime because that’s when it’s convenient for you. Yes, that steroid dosage chart sure is complicated – three, then two, then one, then every other day – but don’t decide “nobody could keep up with that” and come up with your own easier system. And don’t be me, 15 years ago, making your dog’s slight fracture take four months to heal instead of six weeks because it seemed impossible to keep her from playing with the rest of the pack.
I know this stuff is hard, and you don’t have time for all of this extra, unpleasant dog stuff. Plus the dog hates it all, which makes it worse. It feels better to skip it, I know. Don’t!
HELP YOUR VET HELP YOUR DOG
Instructions matter. These details may not seem important to you, but I have a tiny little reminder for you: You don’t know enough to know why they are important. The vet does, and that’s why you pay her.
Of course, there will always be frustrating expenses – like diagnostic tests that reveal no answer or treatments that don’t help. You can’t do anything about that, but being a great client can help you get the most out of every dollar spent, and help your dog get better faster.
If you do your homework when they are adolescents, adult dogs are so lovely and easy.
Dog trainers are most likely to hear from new prospective clients when the clients’ dogs are in the throes of adolescence – and it’s easy to see why. Puppies are adorable, fun, and easy! They get tired quickly and even if they are not taking well to a forced nap in a safely confined area, their unhappy reaction never lasts long. Many puppies are so darn cute and easy to manage, that they never receive formal training beyond the very common “Sit! Sit! SIT!” (and push the puppy’s bottom to the floor)-style of training that people who don’t know better invariably put their puppies through.
Then those sweet, tractable puppies enter adolescence. They don’t get tired so easily. They learn to be more persistent about airing their grievances when confined or restrained. They develop “object permanence,” whereby they totally remember where you put that thing that you took away from them, and they work to get it back, instead of forgetting it exists, like they might have when they were toddlers. They develop opinions and interests: “Oh my dog, I LOVE squirrels! I want to go see that squirrel RIGHT NOW! Squirrels are the BEST!” They need more physical exercise and more mental stimulation and more information about what they ought to be doing with their time; lacking these things, they become inventive about entertaining themselves.
And their owners tend to freak out at these developments – as if they weren’t natural and normal!
At this point, unprepared and irresponsible (or just wildly overwhelmed) owners tend to bring those pups to a shelter, or try to rehome them on Craigslist. More responsible owners will call a trainer – although they might freak out even more when they find out that the “teen dog” training classes have been booked months in advance.
Before I went on a several-year jag of fostering large litters of puppies for my local shelter, I used to foster adolescent dogs for them. My husband and I sold the house where I used to have my office – and where I used to foster all those puppies – and our new house is nowhere near as well set up for fostering puppies; there isn’t a good place (yet) for setting up a safe, foxtail-free play yard or a place where moms and tiny puppies can be comfortable in all weather (cool in our brutally hot summers, warm in our coldish winters). So it looks like I’m back to taking on adolescent foster dogs, rather than raising puppies.
The dog I was calling Kiki was my last foster. She was the typical adolescent shelter owner-surrender: relentlessly active, curious, and smart. She had picked up a few good-manners behaviors while staying in her second adoptive home, but was too pesty to get along with the adult dog there, and got returned again. Besides the things she learned in that home, she didn’t know much; she clearly hadn’t been taught anything by the people in her first home. So, while she spent a good part of any free time she had picking up items that belong to humans and putting them in other places – such as, taking the gardening gloves off the table on the back deck, and placing one next to the fence at the back of our two acres and the other next to my car in the carport – and driving my dog Woody to near-depression with her unending pestering, she was also quite interested in working with people and learned things very quickly. Within weeks, I could take the funny little mixed-breed dog with gigantic ears on off-leash hikes and mountain bike rides, for rides in the car (she rode and waited in the car with impeccable calm), and to friends’ homes. This took a lot of work and attention, however. If we failed to get out for a fair bit of exercise each day, she’d start looking for things to occupy her time – not good things, either. She was a classic “teenager” – but I’m confident she’s going to be a terrific adult.
Kiki got placed in a great home about 8 weeks ago – and then, just two weeks later, we had a death in the family (my brother-in-law). The disruption in my schedule and tasks that I’ve taken on to help my sister have been taking up all my spare time, and I haven’t yet contacted the shelter to see if there is another dog that needs foster care and training. So it’s been about 8 weeks with only my two adult dogs here, and I have to say . . . it’s heaven. They are such an easy pleasure to be around.
I adopted Otto from my local shelter in June 2008, when he was about 7 or 8 months old, right at the beginning of his adolescence. Chewing, digging, and barking at every leaf that fell at night were our biggest challenges during that time — but they are distant, fuzzy memories now!
Folks, it might take a year or two, but I assure you: If you stick with them, keep up the training and the exercise and the good, solid management, your crazy, impulsive, naughty adolescent dog is going to mature into the best dog ever, and the memory of those endless days of finding holes in the lawn and chewed-up shoes and gloves all over the property will fade, I promise. If I read the articles I wrote about my 13 ½-year-old dog Otto when he was an adolescent, why, I would barely recognize the issues we were dealing with then. And the worrisome behaviors that 5 ½-year-old Woody exhibited during his adolescence (namely, he went through a period of about a year where the well-socialized, formerly friendly, confident puppy turned into a fearful, growly adolescent when meeting strangers), have completely disappeared. As he matured, with a lot of counter-conditioning and desensitization, he outgrew those fears and regained his former happy, goofy confidence.
Personally, I think every puppy should come with a disclaimer: “There is likely to be a period, about six to eight months from now and lasting as long as a year or more, when you will seriously consider giving this puppy away. Please get ready and do your homework now, even when it seems completely unnecessary because this is such a good little puppy, and you will get through the puppy’s “teenage phase” with your relationship, family, and home intact.”
Otto helped shape Woody into the genial, deferent adult he still is today. Otto brooked no foolishness from his younger “brother.”
For more information, see these articles on teen dogs (note that the titles of the articles may be different in the print version of the magazine and the online version):
Every trainer has heard clients say "But my dog is not food-motivated". While it's absolutely true that many dogs won't take any sort of treat when they are experiencing anxiety or are in an overstimulating environment, the goal is to try lots of foods to find some that are so delicious they can help keep the dog's focus on his handler.
Whole Dog Journal is known for its in-depth, frank annual reviews of dry and wet dog food – but we rarely review dog treats. This would seem to fly in the face of the fact that we also constantly recommend giving food treats to your dogs for training and classical conditioning. There is probably not a single issue in our 23-year history that doesn’t mention the importance and value of feeding treats. So what gives?
Here’s the scoop: We are strong proponents of using real food for treats. In our opinion, commercial dog treats are often adulterated with ingredients that are included in the formula for the purpose of extending the product’s shelf life, appearance, texture, and/or palatability. We think that ingredients should be included only for their nutrition and appeal – and, I guess I should emphasize, I mean their appeal to dogs. The use of colors – and especially artificial colors – to make dog treats look appealing to humans is absolutely ridiculous and unhealthy.
But there are a number of reasons that people like to buy commercial dog treats. Some people appreciate the convenience of the extended shelf life of store-bought dog treats. People who don’t like cooking or cutting food into tiny bits may appreciate that this work has been done for them by treat manufacturers; in fact, I have vegetarian friends who don’t mind buying biologically appropriate meaty foods for their dogs, but who don’t like buying, cooking, and cutting up meats to use for dog treats.
Most adorably, some owners find that their dogs really enjoy being taken to a pet supply store and shopping for treats that the dogs know are just for them! And they get really excited every time they hear the treat package crinkle.
So, let’s do this: Let’s talk about healthy and appealing treats for dogs – both home-prepared and commercial. I’ll tell you what I and many dog trainers most strongly recommend using for training treats and what to look for (and look out for) in a commercial treat. Best of both worlds? That’s our goal.
REAL-FOOD FAVORITES
Every dog trainer I know uses and promotes the use of foods like chicken, roast beef, ham, cheese, and so on for dog training. But I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard a new dog owner exclaim, “Wait! I thought we aren’t supposed to give human foods to our dogs!”
Pardon me; I’m going to have a brief tantrum. Where the Xoloitzcuintli did this myth get started? Who is still spreading this misinformation to innocent dog owners? Bring them to me!
Folks: There is no such thing as “human food.” Food is food! Dog food is made of food – although there are ingredients in some dog foods we don’t usually eat ourselves (but we could if we were starving). The fact that dog food and dog treats are manufactured with ingredients that are processed with generally lower quality-control standards than human foods does not invalidate them as foods.
When teaching new behaviors to dogs – or asking them for behaviors that are really challenging for them – trainers almost universally recommend using rewards that are of “high value.” (Note: Some trainers eschew the use of food treats, and use high-value toys as reinforcers. This article is not for them.)
What constitutes a high-value food treat varies from dog to dog, and trainers encourage their students to try lots of different foods in order to find a variety of things that their dogs find irresistible. But some traits are desirable to most dogs:
* Meatiness. Name a meat – chances are your dog will like it. We’ll put fish into this category, too; it has the added appeal of a strong smell. Eggs are not technically considered meat, but they contain a similar level of protein and fat, and most dogs are just as attracted to eggs as meat.
* Fattiness. Offer a high-fat food and a lower-fat version to the same dog, and he will almost always choose the higher-fat version.
* Sweetness. Dogs take after humans in this regard; they like sweet foods. (Did you know that cats, in contrast, don’t have taste-bud receptors for sweetness?)
* Saltiness. Dogs also like the taste of salt, though they usually tap out at lower amounts of salt than humans.
* Novelty. It’s a minority of dogs who will always choose the same treat over a “trail mix” of treats that are of the same approximate value. Dogs like variety!
You can test this with your own dog. Gather three or four different treats, including what you think of as your dog’s favorite. Put that suspected favorite in one closed hand and a different one of similar value in the other hand (also closed). Allow him to sniff each hand, then open both hands simultaneously.
Repeat as many times as you like, always putting the same “favorite” treat in the same hand and varying the type of treat in the other hand. We’ll bet you that he chooses the “new” treat more often than chance.
Cautions
Despite our earlier tantrum about the misconception that human food is bad for dogs, there are a small number of foods and ingredients that dogs shouldn’t eat. This may because the foods can be toxic to dogs if consumed in sufficient amounts to dogs (such as onions, chocolate, grapes and raisins, and anything containing xylitol) or because they are no better for dogs than they are for humans, such as highly processed, additive-laden junk food.
Also, if your dog has food allergies or is intolerant of certain foods, by all means, don’t include foods that you know will make him feel unwell.
But understand that if your dog eats the same food every single day (and has for months or even years) – you’ve been feeding him this way because you thought you were supposed to – he may suffer an upset stomach when you introduce new foods. If he’s been on a highly restricted diet, his digestive tract will take a little time to adjust to anything new. Start out with small amounts, and increase only if his digestion stays consistent (no diarrhea, constipation, or vomiting).
HEALTHY TREATS FROM YOUR KITCHEN
Whether you are looking for treats to use for training, classical conditioning (to change a dog’s association with a stimulus from negative to positive), or just because you enjoy doling out treats to your canine companion, you can consider just about any “real food” in your kitchen (save those mentioned in the “Cautions” sidebar below). Offer your dog a small sample of any single-ingredient, unadulterated food and see what he likes! Here are some great candidates:
• Any sort of cooked meat. We like to use chicken: boiled, broiled, canned, frozen/thawed strips, or sliced. Inexpensive lunch meat and hot dogs are okay, but be aware that these are usually full of unhealthy additives and high in fat and salt.
• Eggs. Chunks of scrambled or hard-boiled eggs work well.
• Fish. Pieces of canned tuna or sardines, or pieces of cooked or dried fish.
• Cheese. Some dogs can handle any amount of cheese without digestive consequences; others immediately react with gas and diarrhea. Start with tiny, pea-sized amounts and experiment. Cheeses like feta and Parmesan offer taste and extra aroma.
• Fruit. Some dogs love fresh fruit such as bananas, watermelon, peaches, pears, and strawberries, or dried or dehydrated fruit.
• Vegetables. Fewer dogs like veggies, but there are canine fans of carrots, zucchini, sweet potatoes, green beans, broccoli, and more. Most dogs consider these as lower value than meaty or sweet foods, but even lower-value treats have a place in training.
Low-Fat Treats
Did you know that 1 gram of carbohydrates contains the same number of calories as 1 gram of protein? It’s true: Both protein and carbs contain 4 calories per gram. Want to know how many calories are in 1 gram of fat? One gram of fat contains a whopping 9 calories – more than twice that of protein or carbs.
Fat is highly appealing to dogs – but it’s not the only thing that dogs like. Whether you are buying or making treats for an overweight dog or one who is prone to pancreatitis, look for products that contain lower amounts of fat. Always check the amount of fat and calories on the label, and compare the amounts to other treats you are considering.
Here’s a tip: Include a few high-fat treats in a mix of low-fat treats in your “bait bag” (whether that’s a wearable pouch or a bowl of treats on your kitchen counter). This keeps your dog interested, much like a gambler playing a slot machine that offers variable rewards (and a jackpot every so often) or a kid collecting Halloween candy (just one of those full-size candy bars gives a kid the motivation to walk another few blocks). Add some of your dog’s regular kibble, too; the lower-value treats make the higher-value ones stand out!
WHAT ABOUT STORE-BOUGHT DOG TREATS
When I have a new, untrained foster dog staying with me, I load up at the grocery store with real food to use daily as training and conditioning treats. But when only our two well-trained adult dogs are at home, I generally keep only a bag of commercial treats handy. I grab a handful every so often (perhaps as little as once every few days) to use as surprise reinforcements for behaviors I expect of them and no longer reinforce each time – things like coming when I call them away from barking at people walking by our property, or refraining from jumping up to greet visiting friends.
Just as with “real food” treats, we look for products that contain lots of what dogs like (and is healthy for them) and few or no unnecessary ingredients. Here’s what to look for in a commercial treat:
• Named Meats. It should go without saying that the ingredient label should specify what species of animal the meat came from (i.e., beef, chicken, lamb, etc.). Muscle meat is lower in fat than organ meats, but dogs love organ meat even more, probably because of its high-fat content. (We think of hearts as organs, and dogs like heart as much as liver, kidney, and spleen, but they are made of muscle.) Treats that contain muscle and organ meat tend to be very appealing to most dogs.
• Few Ingredients. The longer the list of ingredients, the more likely it is that the product contains low-cost fillers and artificial additives. The lowest-cost treats usually have the longest list of ingredients. Don’t buy these!
• Ingredients That Are Readily Identified And Only Lightly Processed. Avoid by-products. Everyone knows what wheat or corn is – but would you know what “brewers dried grains” has been through or how corn gluten meal is made? No? Then don’t buy treats that contain ingredients like this.
• Only Natural Preservatives, Or None At All. Avoid products with artificial preservatives such as BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin. “Mixed tocopherols” (vitamin E) is an acceptable natural preservative. Meats that have been freeze-dried or dehydrated by some other method don’t require preservatives.
• “Best By” Dates And/Or Date Of Manufacture. Look for these dates, and try to buy the freshest product available.
• Premium Ingredients. We like to support companies that use ingredients that are certified organic, grass-fed, humanely raised/slaughtered, and/or sustainably fished.
SO MANY CHOICES, BUT FEW GREAT ONES
Be advised that the dog-treat industry is absolutely enormous; the dog-treat aisles at most chain pet-supply stores are absurdly long. Commercial treats are also pretty much unnecessary. As we stated earlier, there are plenty of foods in your kitchen right now that your dog will be even more willing to work for than most commercial treats.
That said, there are times that the convenience of store-bought treats will win the day. Just make sure they are not full of unhealthy ingredients, have been made domestically and recently (check those date codes!), and break them into small pieces, so you can feed more of them in a session.
The research regarding whether the timing of spay surgery impacts the incidence of urinary incontinence in dogs is not conclusive. Though some people warn against early spay surgery, citing a purported increased risk of incontinence, spaying later in a dog's life is known to increase the risk of mammary tumors.
Urinary incontinence is the lack of full, voluntary control over the passage of urine. It results from failure of the bladder and/or urethra (the outlet from the bladder) to contain urine as the bladder fills. In dogs, the most common cause for this is called “urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence” (USMI), and it happens most frequently in spayed females. Other names for this condition include idiopathic incontinence, hormone-responsive incontinence, and spay incontinence.
Spay incontinence is a pretty common disorder and has been the subject of much discussion and research in medical circles, as is common when science has not yet been able to definitely understand it. Why does it happen? What exactly goes wrong physiologically? These questions have not yet been conclusively answered.
WHAT WE KNOW
During urination, involuntary nerves tell the bladder to contract and the urethra to relax. The opposite happens when urine is held in; the bladder must relax and the urethra must contract.
There are estrogen-receptor sites along the urethra, supporting ligaments, and muscles. When estrogen attaches to these receptors, the tone of the urethral sphincter strengthens. There are other receptors (alpha receptors), which also strengthen urethral tone. Estrogen is known to increase the number and sensitivity of these receptors.
In a conventional spay surgery (more formally called an ovariohysterectomy), a dog’s ovaries are removed (along with her uterus). This means she no longer produces estrogen, thereby losing these strengthening effects. As the muscles and sphincter become weaker, the urethra becomes less effective at holding back urine, and urine may leak.
About 5% of spayed female dogs will develop urinary incontinence. Of those, the vast majority are larger dogs, weighing 40 pounds or more. In the United States, Dobermans and Giant Schnauzers top the list of breeds with the highest incidence, while in Europe it is the Boxer.
The time of onset varies quite a bit. Spay incontinence usually occurs within three years of the spay surgery, although some dogs will develop symptoms within weeks of surgery.
STILL UP FOR DEBATE
There is no agreement among experts regarding the ideal timing of spay surgery and whether the age of the dog at the time of surgery affects the likelihood of her developing urinary incontinence afterward. There are studies that show it’s more likely if you spay them young (less than 6 months of age). There are also studies that say it makes no difference whether you spay them earlier or later (after 12 months).
Whether spaying before the first heat or after makes a difference is unclear. Why are the larger breeds so much more frequently affected than the smaller breeds? We just don’t know. There is at least one study that implies spaying the larger breeds later may help reduce the incidence of spay incontinence. Beyond that, the debate continues.
SIGNS
If you notice your spayed female dog is starting to leave wet spots where she lays, she may be suffering from spay incontinence. Other signs include wetness around the vulva, staining of the hair around the vulva, paying more attention to, and licking at, the vulva. The leaking is almost always intermittent and usually most noticeable after resting or sleeping. She will still urinate normally when taken out to potty, as long as there are no other compounding issues like a urinary tract infection (UTI).
WHAT TO DO
It seems like a strange thing to document – the size of the puddle left by a napping incontinent dog – but it helped her veterinarian see the extent of the problem. Tip: If you have an incontinent dog, throw an easily washable, absorbent sheet over a dog bed with a waterproof cover.
Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian and be sure to bring a fresh (no more than 30 minutes old) urine specimen, collected in a clean, dry container. I find it easiest to use something larger in diameter with a low profile for collecting urine. Just nonchalantly slide something low such as a pie plate (as opposed to a Dixie cup) behind your dog when she squats to urinate.
Once collected, pour the urine into a clean, dry jar to give to your veterinarian. The fresher the sample, the more accurate the results, so it’s not a bad idea to bring your pie plate and container to the clinic and catch your sample right outside.
In addition to running a urinalysis on the sample you bring, your veterinarian will do a thorough physical exam, including a neurological evaluation and rectal palpation. A careful history will be taken to determine the exact nature of the leaking:
• Is it intermittent or consistent?
• Large volumes or small puddles?
• After exercise or after rest?
• Does it happen only while laying down, or does she dribble while walking?
• Does she urinate normally outside?
The urinalysis, exam, and answers to these questions will help your veterinarian rule out other underlying conditions that can contribute to urinary incontinence. These include things like spinal-cord disease, kidney disease, UTI, bladder stones, and diabetes.
If all is normal at this point, your leaky dog will likely be given a diagnosis of spay incontinence until proven otherwise. There are urethral-pressure tests that can be done to prove that this is USMI, but they are expensive and will put your dog through a lot of possibly unnecessary testing. Because the available treatments for spay incontinence are safe and effective, beginning treatment and using a positive response to therapy as a diagnostic tool is acceptable.
TREATMENT
Medical therapy falls into two groups: hormone replacement (estrogen) and drugs that strengthen contraction of the involuntary muscles of the urethra (alpha agonists).
Phenylpropanolamine (PPA), an alpha agonist, is usually the drug of choice. The popular brand name is Proin, manufactured by Pegasus Laboratories. PPA is effective in 75% to 90% of dogs with spay incontinence. It is relatively safe but can cause hypertension (high blood pressure). Your dog’s blood pressure should be checked before starting therapy, one week later, again in a month, and then every six months. Other possible side effects are restlessness and agitation.
Typically, dogs will be started on twice daily PPA. Some dogs can eventually be maintained with once daily dosing. Some dogs may require medication three times a day. Proin also comes in an extended-release formulation, which may be preferable for dogs requiring three times daily dosing of the regular formula.
Dogs with high blood pressure, kidney disease, or heart disease should not be treated with PPA. Hormone replacement therapy is a better choice for these dogs.
Diethylstilbsterol (DES) is the original synthetic estrogen that was prescribed for treatment of spay incontinence. Medical concerns for human patients have made this medication harder to find, but it is available through veterinary compounding pharmacies. After a loading period of once daily for a week, many dogs can be maintained on once weekly treatment.
At the dosages prescribed for urinary incontinence, this medication is safe. But at higher dosages, or in the instance of an inadvertent overdose, it causes life-threatening bone marrow suppression, so be sure to keep it up high on a shelf where your dog can’t get to it.
Estriol is a newer, more popular estrogen. The brand name is Incurin, manufactured by Intervet Schering-Plough. This is a short-acting estrogen that is extremely safe. It is dosed once daily. After the initial two-week loading period, it’s recommended to try lower dosages to find the lowest effective dose for your dog. Sometimes this medication can cause loss of appetite and vomiting. If the dose your dog requires for effective control is high, she will sometimes start to show unwanted signs of heat (swollen vulva, male dog attention). In this case, PPA may be a better choice.
KEEP TRYING
There are some practical things you can do to protect your home if your dog is prone to urinary incontinence. Make sure your dog empties her bladder before bedtime and even before settling down for naps, if possible. Washable female dog diapers are available from pet supply stores. And water-resistant dog-bed covers (and even couch covers) are available online.
If you’ve tried Proin to no avail, and then tried Incurin, and still had no luck in stopping the urine dribble, ask your veterinarian about trying them together. They are safe to use together, and there is frequently a synergistic boosting effect.
Any medication, or combination of medications, that works for your dog may become less effective over time, so expect ups and downs and the need for adjustment of medications. Other medications sometimes tried in refractory cases include conjugated estrogens (e.g., Premarin) and GnRH agonists (e.g., Lupron). For dogs not helped with medications, surgical options are available.
Urinary incontinence due to sphincter mechanism incompetence makes your dog more prone to UTIs, so be sure to have her urine checked periodically. This should be the first thing you do if your previously well-controlled incontinent dog starts leaking again.
In most cases, this frustrating, annoying problem can be safely and effectively managed with medication. So, if this happens to your spayed female, don’t lose hope!
Dark reddish-brown stains around the eyes are unsightly, but are most commonly a purely cosmetic issue. Just ask your veterinarian to take a peek to make sure there isn't an underlying reason for the excess tears. Once this is confirmed, you can tackle the stains with daily cleaning.
It’s frustrating to see rusty brown tear stains on your dog’s beautiful face. With so many tear-stain-removing products for sale in the pet supply stores, you may be tempted to buy one. But if your dog has watery eyes, before reaching for products that may help remove tear stains, please have your dog examined by a veterinarian. There are many conditions that can cause the eyes to water excessively which, left unaddressed, can result in pain and loss of vision.
The list of possible underlying issues is long. Some of the most common include allergies, inflammatory conditions (like conjunctivitis, corneal irritation, or ulcer), foreign bodies, glaucoma, distichiasis (eye lashes growing from the wrong place), entropion (eyelids that roll in so that haired skin rubs on the cornea), facial nerve paralysis (eyelids can’t blink), and nasolacrimal (tear duct) obstruction.
It should go without saying that if you notice any sign of pain or discomfort, such as a yellow or green discharge from the eyes, redness, itching, or pawing at the eyes, you should seek veterinary care as soon as possible.
If your veterinarian identifies an underlying medical issue that can be managed or corrected, tear staining will no longer be an issue. It’s also good news if no underlying issues are identified. Epiphora (excessive tears that overflow onto the face) is neither painful nor dangerous for your dog. It is simply a cosmetic issue. Sometimes simple changes in grooming habits will help.
GROOMING SOLUTIONS
If your dog has long hair on her face and near her eyes, keep this hairtrimmed back. Long hairs rubbing on the eyes are very irritating. Long hairs around the eyes also wick tears down onto the face.
Cleanse your dog’s periocular (around the eyes) area at least once a day with a clean moist cloth or cotton ball. Eye-wash solutions containing boric acid are safe to use.
Rubbing a tiny amount of petroleum jelly onto the hair near the inside corner of the eye after cleansing can help keep the tears from penetrating the hair between cleanings, which helps minimizing staining.
HOME REMEDIES MIGHT WORK
As a veterinarian, I’ve heard about all sorts of things that some people do to try to reduce tear staining. Some people report success with things like adding buttermilk flour, parsley flakes, or apple cider vinegar to the dog’s food. Probiotics are purported to help with tear staining. Using Bausch + Lomb Renu contact lens solution for cleansing around the eyes has resulted in improvement.
Sometimes a simple diet change results in resolution of epiphora and tear staining. When this happens, it is likely the dog had an underlying allergy to some ingredient in his former diet.
The bottom line for all these home remedies: As long as they are not harmful to your dog, there is no harm in trying them. You’ll need to give anything you’re trying at least three months before expecting to see results. As always, your veterinarian is your best resource regarding the safety of anything you are thinking of trying.
AN OTC PRODUCT THAT WORKED
Eyedrops or ointments that contain antibiotics should be reserved for dogs whose excessive tear production leads to secondary problems, such as a foul odor or skin irritation. Indiscriminate use may lead to the development of antibiotic-resistant “superbugs”.
The most popular and widely known over-the-counter product for reducing tear stains is called Angels’ Eyes. Years ago, this product really worked, thanks to its active ingredient, an antibiotic called tylosin tartrate.
In 2014, the FDA cracked down on using this product for this purpose in dogs and cats, and the tylosin was removed from the Angels’ Eyes’ product formulations. In the opinion of many users, without tylosin, the product seemed less effective.
Today, Angels’ Eyes offers several supplements (in soft-chew and powdered form) that contain cranberry extract. The bioflavonoids in cranberry extract alter the ability of bacteria to stick to body tissues. I don’t know if it will reduce tear staining, but it should help alleviate the odor that sometimes comes along with the stains.
Angels’ Eyes also sells an external wipe, used to clean the area around the dog’s eyes. I prefer to use a clean damp cloth for this purpose.
Tetracycline is another antibiotic that has proven to be an effective treatment for tear staining, as it works via a number of mechanisms. Tetracycline biochemically breaks down the hydrostatic bonds in the dog’s tears, making the tears thinner and thereby better able to drain through the dog’s tiny tear ducts. It binds to iron, which is in porphyrin, the pigment responsible for tear staining. Tetracycline has also been found to diffuse into cells and alter the genetic expression of tear type and production.
The problem is, it’s an antibiotic – and antibiotic resistance is a real danger. Indiscriminate antibiotic use contributes to the development of “super bugs” that are resistant to common antibiotics. These resistant bacteria can cause life-threatening infections. When doctors have no effective treatment options, humans and animals die. With that moral and ethical issue on the table, the question becomes, is it appropriate to use an antibiotic for a purely cosmetic issue in dogs?
ASK YOUR VET
Talk to your veterinarian. If your dog has severe epiphora and tear staining, especially if it’s accompanied by odor and/or some underlying skin irritation, perhaps your veterinarian will prescribe tetracycline or tylosin to get the current problem under control. Improve your dog’s grooming, too: Keep the hair on his face trimmed away from his eyes and clean his face daily. Once the condition is controlled, you should be able to maintain his clean face using the grooming techniques and anecdotal suggestions mentioned above.
And don’t think all those people showing dogs know something you don’t know; they often cover the tear stains with chalk!
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Reactivity is a commonly used term in the dog behavior and training world, but it’s frowned upon by some in our profession because it’s a somewhat nebulous behavioral descriptor. The word “reactive” gets used to describe everything from the dog who barks a few times when the doorbell rings to the dog who turns into a raving lunatic in the presence of her triggers.
What is a reactive dog? Here’s the best definition I’ve heard: A reactive dog is one with an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. Thus, the dog who barks a few times at the doorbell would not be considered reactive, but the dog who barks excessively at the sight of another dog, a non-threatening human, a passing vehicle, or any other stimulus that causes a significant overreaction, would be. It doesn’t have to be extreme to be considered reactivity – just “abnormal.”
While many owners are capable of dealing with a dog who displays a low to moderate level of reactivity, dogs who display high levels of arousal can be daunting even to experienced dog lovers. It can be disappointing to discover that your dog’s level of reactive behavior is beyond – or even far beyond – what you were prepared to cope with. The good news is we can usually help these dogs learn how to be behaviorally appropriate in the presence of their triggers.
Types of Reactive Behavior in Dogs
There are two distinctly different types of reactive behavior. One is caused by fear or anxiety and commonly includes a significant risk of aggression. This usually presents in dogs who were not well-socialized, who are generally fearful or anxious, and/or who have perhaps had life events, whether accidental or deliberately abusive, that now cause them to be particularly sensitive to the stimuli that are triggering their abnormal levels of arousal.
The other type is caused by frustration. An example would be the dog who is very eager to interact with the other stimulus – often another dog – but is thwarted from doing so by a leash, fence, other barrier, or physical restraint by a human.
These dogs will often run up to the object of their attention and happily engage in appropriate interaction if released from restraint – but not always. Sometimes the intensity of their frustration has already pushed them over their own threshold to the point they will aggress if released and allowed to interact. Other times, the object of their emotional display may feel threatened by their aroused behavior and react with defensive aggression when approached.
In either case, it’s important for a dog with reactive behavior to learn more appropriate responses. The following suggestions can help you modify your dog’s behavior in the presence of a variety of stimuli that trigger an inappropriately aroused response.
Management is a critical piece of most (if not all!) behavior-modification programs. Reactivity is no exception. If you want to change your dog’s reactive behavior, she needs to stop practicing it.
Each time a dog reacting from anxiety or fear goes over threshold and the stimulus moves away, the reactive behavior is reinforced, making it more likely to happen again the next time. Although in many cases the stimulus (dog, person, vehicle) would have gone away anyway, the dog doesn’t know this. She thinks growling, barking, and lunging made it go away and thus believes this is a successful survival strategy. Her reactive behavior is likely to repeat or increase as a result.
With frustration reactivity, the motivation is different – the dog wants to go see the other dog, human, etc., and the arousal results from being thwarted. This behavior can result from routinely allowing your dog to greet other dogs and humans while on leash – one of the reasons I strongly recommend against this practice. When your dog expects to be able to greet and for some reason is not allowed to do so, it can result in reactive arousal, especially for dogs who are already struggling with low tolerance for frustration. I ask my dogs to be attentive to me in the presence of others, and they are allowed to greet only on occasion (not every time!) when they are given permission.
If you quickly allow your dog to approach on leash to ease her frustration reactivity, you have positively reinforced her for her behavior: The inappropriate behavior made a good thing happen – she got to visit the other dog. Once again, the arousal behavior is likely to increase as a result.
With both types of reactivity, management means preventing your dog’s over-threshold exposure to the trigger stimuli. In order to do this, you need to have an understanding of “intensity of stimulus” – meaning how close, how active, how loud or what gender the person is; how fast or loud the vehicle is; how large, what breed, color, gender the dog; or any other identifiable quality that will set your dog off.
Your dog might be calm in the presence of any dog if they are at least 50 feet away, with small dogs at least 25 feet away, and specifically with Pomeranians as close as 10 feet. She might be comfortable with women at any distance unless they are wearing a hat, sunglasses, or carrying an umbrella, but all men need to be at least 40 feet away. Your dog might be calm with a person walking outside past your living room window, but a jogger or skateboard sets her off every time.
The better you are at identifying all the various characteristics of all your dog’s triggers and keeping them at below-threshold intensity, the more she’ll stay below her reactivity threshold, and the more successful you’ll be at modifying the behavior.
Please note that in cases with more extreme levels of arousal, appropriate medication can be an important part of management. Discuss this possibility with your veterinarian; ask for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist if she isn’t knowledgeable about behavior-modifying medications.
There are several protocols that can be used to manage and modify reactive behavior, and some of them can be used in conjunction with each other. These are the ones I have found most useful, both for effectiveness and ease of use:
Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization (CC&D)
CC&D involves changing your dog’s association with a stimulus by pairing it with something she loves, often a high-value food treat, such as chicken – baked, broiled, canned, or thawed-out frozen “naked” chicken strips (no breading or seasoning).
For this discussion, we will talk about a dog who reacts to other dogs, but you can substitute any stimulus your dog reacts to.
Have your dog on-leash, far enough away from another dog that she can stay below threshold. Let her glance at the other dog, and then feed her a bit of chicken. Let her glance, and feed again.
Repeat many times, until you see her glance at the other dog and quickly look back at you. She is now starting to realize that the other dog is making chicken appear, which makes her happier about seeing the other dog. This is called a “conditioned emotional response” or CER.
As she becomes less concerned about that dog, you can very gradually decrease the distance between your dog and the other one, feeding treats to get a happy response at each new distance. Over many repetitions with many different dogs at many different locations, you can succeed in convincing the emotional part of her brain (the amygdala) that dogs are great – they make chicken appear!
Remember that it is the presence of the stimulus that makes the chicken happen, not your dog’s behavior. If she goes over threshold, do not wait for her to calm down to feed her a treat; instead, move farther away and try again. When she starts consistently giving the CER that you want, it’s tempting to wait for her to look at you to feed – but then you are reinforcing behavior rather than building a happy association; instead, continue to feed her the treats as quickly as possible.
If you are consistently getting the desired CER, it’s time to increase the intensity of the stimulus. You still feed her just for looking at the other dog; it is the presence of the stimulus that makes the chicken happen, not her behavior of looking at you.
Note that although you were doing (classical) counter-conditioning (working with associations and emotional responses), your dog is offering an operant (deliberate) behavior because her association has changed. Operant and classical conditioning are working together all the time! (For more information about how these work together, see “Training Your Dog to Learn,” January 2016.)
There are a variety of operant exercises you can do to convince your dog to offer a behavior other than overreacting in the presence of her trigger stimuli. These utilize the thinking part of her brain (the cortex). If you utilize a behavior your dog already knows and loves, her happy classical association can work to your advantage even though you are doing operant protocols. Here are some that are commonly used:
Touch (teaching your dog to target to your hand). This is a marvelously useful behavior for a number of different applications. It can be used to cooperatively move or position your dog – onto the scale at the veterinary clinic, into your car, onto her bed, and more. The best part of the “touch” behavior is that it is so easy that lots of dogs love it: “I push the button (the hand) and I get a treat – yay!” The positive association with the “Touch” cue can help put the emotional part of your dog’s brain in a happier place when she is worried about the presence of her trigger stimulus, while the thinking part of the brain responds to the cue.
In addition to the benefit of that positive association, when you ask your dog to target you are also asking her to turn her head away from the trigger. With enough repetitions, the appearance of the other dog actually becomes the cue to touch your hand, and your dog will offer an automatic, happy “fist bump” whenever she sees another dog. (For more about target training, see “Beyond Basic Dog Training,” May 2021.)
Find It (asking your dog to look for treats dropped at your feet). This may be the easiest thing you ever teach your dog. With her facing you, drop a tasty treat at your feet, say “Find it!” and encourage her to eat it. (If you already use “Find it!” to mean “look for something a distance away from you,” use a different cue for this. Some of my clients use “Feet!”)
When your dog consistently and happily responds to the cue, generalize it by asking for “Find it” when she has her back to you and/or is otherwise engaged. Most dogs quickly realize that “Find it!” means “treats at your feet” and happily orient toward you to look for the goodies. Again, the positive association can put her brain in a happier place, and the cue simultaneously redirects her attention away from the trigger.
Walk Away (inviting your dog to happily and quickly move away from the trigger). This is especially useful when a trigger stimulus suddenly appears at an above-threshold distance (too close!). “Walk Away” means, “Happily do a 180-degree turn and run away with me!” If you’ve taught it well, you get the happy emotion-changing association as well as the thinking response, immediately increasing distance from the trigger. (For more about this exercise, see “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” September 2018.)
Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT). In this exercise, developed by Kellie Snider for her master’s thesis circa 2008, under the direction of Dr. Jesús Rosales-Ruiz at the University of North Texas, you teach your dog that a new, acceptable behavior makes an aversive thing go away (or the desirable thing come closer). This is a much more complex procedure than the first three, albeit one that can be very successful when done properly.
Say a dog is reacting in an undesireable way (barking, lunging, growling) to some known trigger out of fear or stress. In a CAT protocol, that triggers would be presented to her at a sub-threshold distance. When she responds with calm, relaxed behavior, the trigger is moved away. With practice, she learns that behaving in a calm manner consistently makes the scary or stressful thing go away – and in the process of practicing calm, she eventually becomes calm and relaxed. Eventually, she no longer feels the needs to make the trigger/stimulus go away.
Conversely, with a “reverse-CAT” procedure where the dog wants to approach, her calm, relaxed behavior makes the desired thing come closer, and as a result she becomes calm and relaxed.
Note: Implementation of this protocol usually requires the guidance of an experienced force-free behavior professional. For a longer article about this, see “Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) Can Improve Behavior,” December 2009.
Habituation. This is a fancy word that means “letting your dog get used to it.” It can be successful with fear/anxiety-related reactivity, but it may backfire with frustration reactivity; you may cause more frustration with reactivity that’s related to thwarted access to a desired stimulus as you continue to prevent the dog’s access to the coveted interaction.
For habituation, simply hang out with your dog at a sub-threshold distance from the trigger until she acclimates to its presence with no treat-feeding, letting her go about her normal doggie activities. When she seems totally unruffled about the stimulus, you move a little closer and, again, wait for habituation. (Yes, this is desensitization without the counter-conditioning.)
Grisha Stewart’s Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) 2.0 procedure utilizes habituation on a long line, in conjunction with specific long line-handling protocols. Habituation can be a useful procedure for modifying reactivity, and may take longer than counter-conditioning and desensitization together.
The Good News
Reactive behavior can usually be successfully transformed into non-reactive behavior, or at least more manageable behavior, with your commitment to an appropriate combination of management and modification. If you are daunted by your dog’s current level of reactivity, know that there is hope. The sooner you get started on a combination of the above-suggested protocols, the sooner you and your dog can live happily ever after together.
Trainer Sarah Richardson of Chico, CA, delivers spray cheese (such as Cheez Whiz or Kong's Easy Treat) through the end of the muzzle. Moxie happily shoves her nose into the muzzle to enjoy the cheese. When teaching a dog to wear a muzzle, don't be in a rush to fasten it onto the dog. The process should resemble teaching her a trick, not asking her to submit to something unpleasant. In this case, the "trick" will be pushing her nose all the way into the muzzle, and eventually, holding it there. Only after she's super comfortable with that will you fasten the strap.
Muzzles, and the dogs who wear them, often get a bad rap, as many people associate them with dogs who may display aggressive behavior. In reality, there are plenty of reasons why even the most mild-mannered, sociable dogs might need to be muzzled, along with numerous situations where using a muzzle is an act of responsible dog ownership.
Muzzles can be used to help keep people and other animals safe in a variety of circumstances:
✔ In an emergency. When a dog is in pain, fearful, and/or pushed past her limits, she may pose a bite risk, so the use of a muzzle keeps everyone safe.
✔ As “insurance” when working through a training plan. A muzzle can be a valuable tool to help ensure the safety of other people and animals when working on a behavior modification program. A muzzle should never replace training to address the root of the issue that leads to the potential bite risk, but it’s a great safety net in case things don’t go as planned during a training session.
✔ As a supervised management tool. In some cases, a muzzle can be safely used to prevent the ingestion of dangerous items, while allowing the dog to explore on a walk; to prevent the dog from harming wildlife; or even as added security in situations where you aren’t sure how the dog will react.
✔ When required by law. In some areas, dogs – or certain breeds of dogs – are required to wear a muzzle when in public.
TYPES OF MUZZLES
There are two basic types of muzzles:
* “Basket” muzzles encase the dog’s snout in a basket with straps fastened around the neck and head. They are typically made from plastic, rubber, or silicone. While a basket muzzle limits the degree to which a dog can open its mouth, a properly fitted basket muzzle allows the dog to relax its mouth enough to pant. The open weave of the basket makes it possible for the dog to eat and drink, making a good choice for muzzle-training programs.
* Then there are muzzles that encase the snout like an open-ended sheath and buckle around the neck. Sometimes called “soft muzzles,” “sleeve muzzles,” or “grooming muzzles,” they are usually made from nylon, mesh, or leather. They are more restrictive than basket muzzles, and prevent a dog from opening its mouth enough to pant, so they should be used only for a few minutes at a time, and not outdoors (where the risk of overheating is greater). These muzzles are often used in vet hospitals or by groomers for brief periods to protect handlers from a dog who is frightened or in pain.
SLOW IS FAST
Teaching your dog to be comfortable in a muzzle is important. We don’t want our dog to simply submit to the muzzle, letting us put it in place without an objection. We want our dog to feel really good about the muzzle.
It’s important to build a slow, thoughtful development of a positive association with the muzzle – as opposed to simple tolerance – because behavior degrades under stress. If under the best circumstances – relaxed at home, free from pain, away from potentially scary things – your dog only tolerates wearing a muzzle, the introduction of such stressors can lower the dog’s tolerance to “I hate everything that’s happening!”
In contrast, however, if you’ve taught your dog to feel reallygood about the muzzle, even if the behavior of wearing a muzzle degrades, it may only decrease from “I like my muzzle!” to “I can tolerate my muzzle.”
Muzzle training is not just about physical safety; it’s also an investment in your dog’s emotional health and well being.
Muzzle Must-Haves
Mask-style mesh muzzle for a brachycephalic dog; this one is sold by VetMed Solutions. See vedmedwear.com or call (888)976-8696
A quality basket muzzle should be lightweight, adjustable, and have options for added security to prevent the dog from removing the muzzle. We like the Baskerville Ultra muzzle. It has an additional strap that connects the top of the muzzle to the neck strap, along with a loop to further secure the muzzle to the dog’s collar. It can also be heat-shaped with a hair dryer or hot water to create a customized fit.
When properly fit, there should be a small gap between the dog’s nose and the end of the muzzle, and the open-end of the basket should sit below the dog’s eyes. The diameter of the basket should allow the dog to partially open his mouth to pant. You should be able to fit one finger between the edge of the muzzle and the snout, as well as between the straps and the dog’s neck.
Brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, Bulldogs, and French Bulldogs can be more challenging to fit with a muzzle due to their short snouts. Many do better in a mask-style mesh muzzle (designed specifically for such breeds) that covers more of the dog’s face, but has eyeholes to keep from obstructing the dog’s vision.
MAKING MUZZLES MAGICAL
These three steps will help your dog develop positive feelings about seeing and wearing a muzzle. We recommend working with a basket muzzle, as it’s less restrictive and easier to use with treats.
1. Muzzle means delicious treats. Hold the muzzle in one hand and feed your dog tiny, delicious treats from the other hand. After a few treats, put the muzzle behind your back and stop feeding. Continue this process, moving the muzzle closer to your dog’s face, until you can present the muzzle right next to your dog’s face and he’s happy to eat offered treats.
Repeat this process three to five times per day for several days. Practice in different rooms. After a few days, your dog starts to think, “I’m not sure what this is, but when it comes out, I get treats. Cool!”
2. A basket of treats. After a few days of being fed by hand when the muzzle comes out, we’re ready for the dog to move toward the muzzle.
If you have already taught your dog a nose-target behavior (often called “touch”), ask for a touch as you present the muzzle. Reward your dog for targeting any part of the muzzle – but to encourage him to actively insert his snout into the muzzle, deliver the treats within the basket.
If your dog is leery of putting his snout into something restrictive, work on that ahead of time with an easier object, such as a food bowl or water bucket. If your dog shies away as you move to adjust his collar, work on this separately, to prepare your dog for having your hands over his head as you buckle the muzzle and adjust the straps.
The goal is to work this step until the dog is happily shoving his face into the muzzle basket for treats. You can test the strength of the behavior by slowly moving the muzzle away from your dog as he moves toward it, making him try harder to land his snout in the “sweet spot.” The dog should move toward the muzzle; don’t move the muzzle toward the dog.
3. Buckle up, buttercup! Once your dog is happily shoving his snout into the basket, it’s time to work on keeping the snout in the basket as you buckle and adjust the straps. A dollop of squeeze cheese (or peanut butter or something similar) applied to the inside of the basket frees up your hands to handle straps. Time your strap-handling so that you’re able to buckle or adjust – and then remove the muzzle – before your dog finishes licking the reward. We want the dog to think, “Hey! I wasn’t done yet. Put that back on!”
Work up to the point that your dog accepts the muzzle for longer periods of time and, eventually, in the absence of frequently flowing treats – especially if your dog will need to wear a muzzle while on walks or when with other dogs. If your training is primarily for emergencies, don’t forget to periodically revisit the “magic muzzle” training to remind your dog the muzzle is a good thing.
The PupSaver works much like a rear-facing car-safety seat for infants, but instead of the back of the seat being a (padded) hard shell, it's full of polyurethane foam that's been sewn into thick bundles. In case of a collision, the dog would be caught like a baseball in a great big catcher's mitt, cushioned between the padded back of the PupSaver and the back of the vehicle's seat. Our test dog Samson weighs 5 lbs and wears the XXS Petite harness.
As we described in our review of car-safety harnesses in the May 2021 issue, even the best products on the market for medium and larger dogs are limited in the amount of comfort and safety they provide – and none of them can accommodate dogs smaller than 11 lbs. Happily, there is a very safe and comfortable car-safety product available for small dogs (those 45 lbs and less): the PupSaver.
The dog is held in place in the middle of the padded seat by a strap that clips to a ring on the front/bottom of the harness – lower than a front-clip walking harness, but not quite between the dog’s front legs. The combination of the harness and the strap provide only part of the protection, however; the shape and padding of the PupSaver, assisted by the shoulder belt, help catch and contain the dog if he’s been thrown by the force of a collision.
For the best way to understand how the seat works, see the crash-test videos on the PupSaver website (pupsaver.com). The website also has links to several videos that show you how to install the seat. We didn’t find the installation to be difficult, but a friend found it more daunting and reported that the video made all the difference.
Like infant safety seats, the PupSaver provides the highest degree of safety when installed in the back seat of a car. Though the car’s seat belts are used whether it is installed in the front or back seat, the PupSaver’s metal j-hooks can be used to additionally secure it with the car’s LATCH (lower anchors and tethers for children) system in the back seat.
ISSUES OR NON-ISSUES
The owner of our tiny test dog, Samson, anticipated that he would feel constrained by his inability to see over the curved, padded back of the PupSaver, particularly when it was installed in the car’s back seat. In reality, Samson relaxed into the cushioned seat without a fuss. That turned out to be a non-issue, particularly because he could still stand up and see out the side window.
As a mother and grandmother with extensive infant- and toddler-car-seat experience, I was concerned about installing the PupSaver in the front seat; rear-facing infant car seats are never supposed to be installed where an airbag could smash into and displace them, injuring the baby in the seat. But because the PupSaver is soft, not rigid, if an airbag went off, at most it would push the cushioned PupSaver and dog into the car’s seat back. In fact, a number of testimonials on the PupSaver website describe accidents where all the car’ airbags deployed and the dogs were unharmed.
PRICING AND SIZES
The PupSaver seat comes in three sizes: PupSaver Petite (for dogs who weigh 10 lbs or less); PupSaver (for dogs 10 to 30 lbs); and PupSaver 45 (for dogs 35 to 45 pounds). The price varies by size and type of fabric used for the cover, but ranges from $150 to $180.
The PupSaver compatible harnesses are sold separately for $30. They are available in four sizes, ranging from XXS Petite (for dogs who are 5 to 6 lbs) to Medium (for dogs who weigh 30 to 45 lbs).
Does this seem expensive to you? It did to us, too – until we tested the product for the past six months and saw how easy it was to install and use, how much our test dog liked it, and how well it worked. When you add in that fact that small dogs usually live longer than larger dogs (and so you could amortize its cost over a longer time), it seems like a great investment to us.
Widely recognized as useful for treatment of gastrointestinal issues, ongoing research shows probiotics for dogs have the potential to improve overall health and well being. Photo: Kosamtu/Getty Images
If your dog has ever suffered from diarrhea, probiotics have probably been suggested to you by a friend, coworker or your veterinarian. Widely recognized as useful for treatment of gastrointestinal issues, ongoing research shows probiotics have the potential to improve overall health and well being.
The live bacteria in the probiotic adhere to the GI-tract lining, limiting the ability of pathogenic (“bad”) bacteria to adhere and cause disease. The probiotic’s bacteria compete with the pathogenic bacteria for nutrients, again limiting the bad bacteria’s ability to thrive and multiply. Probiotics are thought to improve the integrity of the intestinal barrier, which is what keeps potentially harmful ingested substances from being absorbed.
The GI tract is home to 70% of cells involved in the immune system. These cells are called gut-associated lymphoid tissue (GALT). Probiotics secrete substances that enhance GALT’s ability to modulate immunity. Probiotics ferment nutrients found in fiber and non-absorbable carbohydrates into substances called short-chain fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory benefits and are a rich source of nutrition for the intestinal epithelium (lining).
Potential uses for probiotics:
Diarrhea – Probiotics are usually added to other specific prescribed treatments depending on cause.
Antibiotics – While on antibiotics for infection, probiotics may prevent antibiotic-associated diarrhea.
Allergic dermatitis (atopy) – The immune-modulating and anti-inflammatory effects from probiotics can help control atopy.
Dental disease – Probiotics potentially minimize pathogenic gingival bacteria that produce plaque.
Chronic kidney disease – Azodyl, a probiotic/prebiotic combo, made by Vetoquinol, purportedly lessens the buildup of uremic toxins that makes dogs with chronic kidney disease feel sick.
Recurrent urinary tract infections –The numbers of pathogenic bacteria in the vagina and perivulvar area that predispose female dogs to recurrent UTIs may be reduced by the use of probiotics.
Anxiety — Purina Pro Plan Veterinary Supplement Calming Care contains one strain of probiotic bacteria, called BL999, that has been shown to have an anxiolytic effect on anxious dogs.
Arthritis – Probiotics have known anti-inflammatory benefits.
Which probiotic to choose?
Because probiotics are considered “nutraceuticals,” not pharmaceuticals, products on shelves are not subject to heavy regulation by the Food and Drug Administration. This means, unfortunately, a marketed product may or may not contain what it says it contains. Choosing a probiotic from a reputable company helps eliminate this concern. Talk with your veterinarian or choose a product that is a member of the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC.org), which verifies its member companies’ products.
Whatever you choose, the package should state “guaranteed analysis” above the ingredient list. The ingredient list should include multiple strains of bacteria with names like Bifidobacterium, Lactobacillus, and Enterococcus. The numbers of organisms should be stated. They are counted in colony forming units or CFUs. While the ideal dose for probiotics is not yet known, veterinary recommendations are that each capsule/daily dose should contain at least 5 billion CFUs. Because they are providing living organisms, there should be an expiration date on the package. If there is no expiration date, the viability of the organisms in the product is suspect.
Probiotics are supplements with the potential to improve your dog’s health and well-being in numerous ways. They do not replace the need to see your veterinarian for appropriate diagnosis and treatment of illness. A big key to success with probiotics is choosing a good-quality product, with adequate numbers and multiple strains of bacteria, from a reputable company. As always, the best recommendations for you and your dog come from your veterinarian.
Allow the dog to sniff the harness and reward him generously when he smells or touches it on his own.
So, that brand new dog car harness came just in time, eh? The night before you head out on a big road trip?
Uh-oh.
I bet you were anticipating feeling less stress in the car because you’re so focused on the fact that your dog will now be safer. Alas, you may find that this is the most disastrous trip ever because your howling wild child is thrashing around in distress!
Oops. It turns out that the ideal time to get any new car restraint equipment is a month before the trip, not the night before.
When you think about it, it’s obvious that there is no reason to assume your dog will be hunky dory with suddenly being strapped into a new device that constricts her movement and feels a bit uncomfortable. Sure, maybe your little genius will understand when you say, “Sweetie, this is to make you safe! It’s because I love you!” and immediately relax in the glow of that idea. More likely, though . . . she’ll be confused about what’s happening, she’ll hate it, and she’ll make her displeasure known in ways that will possibly even make you less safe as you drive!
So. Build in some time. The key to gaining your dog’s buy-in is to take it at your dog’s pace, and sweeten the deal by pairing the new containment plan with something the dog loves — likely in the edible category. Here’s how to get your dog to wear a car harness:
Start with a sniff in your home. Whatever device you’re using, start getting your pup used to the idea of it in your home. Maybe that means while you’re watching TV, you bring over that new harness or crate. There’s a sniff, and a treat. Repeat. Repeat. Create a positive link.
Now add restriction, still in your home. Once pup is happy about the sight/smell of the new device, go a step further: go ahead and pop that harness on — time for cheese! ham! — and then take it right off. Repeat. Repeat. Keep going until the dog stares at that harness, mentally willing you to start that fun new game by putting it on.
Build in duration. Once your dog is mellow about putting the harness, make that feeling last a bit longer. Let her walk around in the harness and give her a bully stick to enjoy at the same time. Repeat a few nights in a row.
Hit the driveway! If pup is fully comfortable with the new equipment, it’s time to try it out in the driveway. Load up with, say, dried fish or turkey, and take pup out to the car. Pop that harness on – treat! – and then take it off. Repeat. Repeat. That’s it for today. Then do it all again the next day.
Try a super short drive with a big finish. Now pup is happy to pop up into the car and get into that harness or that crate, it’s time for a little drive. Ideal scenario: a three-minute drive to your dog’s BFF’s house. Any brief moment of concern in the new equipment is quickly rewarded by the best real-life reward in the arsenal: fun playdate. Repeat. Repeat.
There you go. Your pup now has happy associations of driving while restrained in the car. You didn’t rush it, and create a negative association with that brand new equipment. Instead, because you invested the time, that new stuff signals yummy treats and adventure. You’re ready to hit the road!
Read Next: Wondering Which Dog Car Harness To Buy? Read Our Review
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
