Supplies and Equipment for Your New Puppy

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October 25, 2022

Excerpted from Puppy Basics by Pat Miller, CPDT and Nancy Kerns

There’s lots of puppy stuff you’ll need to make your puppy comfortable, happy, and successful as he learns to adapt to your alien environment.

Crate. A crate is an indispensable behavior management tool; it facilitates housetraining and prevents puppy misbehavior by keeping your dog safely confined when you’re not there to supervise. It allows you to sleep peacefully at night and enjoy dinner and a movie without worrying about what the pup is destroying. (Check out WDJ’s Ebook on Crate Training if you need extra help.)
Puppy pen/exercise pen. This is another extremely useful management tool, but it expands the “den” concept of a crate to a slightly larger area, giving a pup more room to stretch her legs, yet still keeping her in a safe, confined area. Many people include a “restroom” facility, by using a tarp underneath the pen and newspapers on top of that at one end.
Tether. This is a short (about four feet in length) plastic-coated cable with sturdy snaps at both ends. Tethers are intended to temporarily restrain a dog for relatively short periods of time in your presence, as an aid in a puppy supervision and house-training program, and as a time-out to settle unruly behavior. They should not be used as punishment, or to restrain a dog for long periods in your absence.
Collar, ID tag, leash, and harness.
Seat belt. Use a restraint that fastens to your car’s seat belts and your dog’s harness (never a collar) to keep her safe, and safely away from the driver.
Clicker. Properly used as a reward marker, a clicker significantly enhances your communication with your furry friend and speeds the training process.
Treats. A clicker, of course, is nothing without an accompanying reward. We use treats as the primary reward to pair with the clicker because most dogs can be motivated by food, and because they can quickly eat a small tidbit and get back to the training fun.
Long line. A lightweight, strong, extra-long leash (10 to 50 feet), the long line is an ideal tool to help your dog learn to come reliably when called regardless of where you are or what other exciting things are happening.
Kong toys. If we could buy only one toy for our dog, it would be a Kong, a chew-resistant (not chew-proof), rubber toy with a hollow center. A Kong can be used “plain” as a toy, but makes an irresistible treat for any dog when stuffed with kibble or treats that are held in place with something like peanut butter, cream cheese, or yogurt.
Balls, interactive toys, fetch toys.
Grooming tools. Choose combs and brushes appropriate for your dog’s type of coat (ask a groomer or vet), shampoo and conditioner, scissors, nail clippers, cotton balls, and toothbrushes. Start using these tools on your puppy early, pairing the experience with tasty treats so she forms a positive association with the task.
House cleaning tools.

For more information on bringing home a new puppy, read the ebook Puppy Basics from Whole Dog Journal.

Different Reasons, Different Solutions

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Editorial Staff

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October 25, 2022

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Stop Barking — small dog with a blue collar is walking on outdoors

Remember that barking is normal behavior for dogs. It is a form of communication. Most dogs bark some of the time and often for very good reasons. Here are some of the most common:

They are excited! There are many potential triggers for excitement barking. Perhaps your dog barks when you first come home or when a friend comes to the door. Dogs who bark when they are excited may bark in play, or when they see something they like, or when they are amped up for no apparent reason.

They want something. This is often called demand barking, but in my house, we call it bossy barking. I live with herding dogs and they do tend to take charge. “Hey, don’t you know it is time for a walk?!”

Demand barking is also common when training with food – when dogs get frustrated because the treats aren’t coming fast enough, for example, they may bark to remind you to keep the food flowing. Barking is also one of the ways that dogs have to ask for what they want or need. A dog may bark when she needs to go outside to potty, and this may be a very good thing!

They are alerting us to something. Most dogs alert-bark to some degree. They may bark when someone comes up to the house, or when there is an unusual noise, or when another dog in the neighborhood barks.

Most of us appreciate some degree of alert barking (for example, I’d be very happy with my dog if she barked if someone were trying to break into my house). The problem with alert barking comes when our dogs are barking at things that people think are inconsequential or when they continue barking when we think they should stop.

They are afraid. We all have things that scare us and so do our dogs. Recently, I was walking with my dog on a familiar path, a place we walk almost daily. As we came around a bend, there in the middle of the path was a pile of boulders. My dog was so surprised by this new thing in our path that she became very afraid –and barked like crazy.

This type of startle barking is relatively common in adolescent dogs like Shadow. Once she stopped barking, we went and investigated the boulders and she realized they were just rocks and all was good. Some dogs, however, have more significant fears – they may be afraid of men, or kids, or other dogs, or hats, or skateboards. When a dog barks because of an ongoing fear, that fear will need to be addressed before the barking problem can be solved.

They don’t do well when alone. Many dogs will experiment with barking when they are alone and bored. Maybe they bark at the squirrels or the neighbor’s dog. Boredom barking often has elements of alert barking, excitement barking, or demand barking. But barking when home alone can also be a symptom of separation distress or anxiety. When dogs are barking when home alone, we need to figure out why in order to effectively help our dogs.

For more advice on how to understand and manage your dog’s barking, download and read Whole Dog Journal’s exclusive ebook Stop Barking.

Punishment works …. but here is why training experts don’t use it.

By

Editorial Staff

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October 25, 2022

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Excerpted from an article by Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA

Just say no to bark collars, air horns, squirt bottles, and other punishments. There are several reasons I don’t use this type of punishment for barking.

First, I don’t like to do anything to my dog that is intimidating or that causes pain or fear. Shock collars work by creating pain, noisemakers such as air horns work by scaring the dog, citronella collars and squirt bottles work by startling the dog or creating an unpleasant sensation. I do not want to do any of these things to my dog.

Also, I don’t think they are particularly effective in most situations. I will confess that in my distant past, I have used all of these in attempts to curb barking behavior. While I sometimes saw a short-term change in the behavior, in the long run the barking always returned. (And the few times I have seen punishment effectively stop barking, a kinder choice would have worked as well.)

Finally, the fallout from using these devices can be significant. Shock collars can cause aggression issues, noisemakers can add to startle and sound issues, and squirt bottles can make your dog want to avoid you! Enough said.

For more advice on how to understand and manage your dog’s barking, download and read Whole Dog Journal’s exclusive ebook Stop Barking.

These Behaviors May Indicate Separation Anxiety

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Editorial Staff

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October 25, 2022

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Typically, symptomatic behaviors may begin either as the anxious dog’s human prepares to depart, or immediately after they leave. The behavior may continue for 30 to 60 minutes or longer, and in more extreme cases, for the entire length of the owner’s absence – even as much as eight to 10 hours. Destructive behavior is one of the most obvious and difficult signs of separation or isolation anxiety (SA or IA), but it is not the only one. Here are others that can be seen in some (but not all) dogs with SA or IA:

Velcro Dog – SA and IA dogs tend to be clingy even when owners are home – following their humans from room to room, and lying as close as possible when owners are seated. The dog may also frantically try to follow his human every time she walks out the door, even if she’s just going out to get the mail or newspaper.

Pacing – As you make preparations to leave, your dog recognizes the pending event, and begins to stress – often pacing, panting, and whining in anticipation of your departure.Vocalization – It is not uncommon for SA/IA dogs to be very vocal when their humans are gone.

House Soiling – Extreme stress can cause your dog to urinate and defecate indoors. He can’t help it.

Anorexia – Many dogs with SA/IA will not eat or drink when left alone. (This renders the often-given suggestion to give the dog a food-stuffed Kong or other toy relatively useless.)

Crate Intolerance – Dogs with SA/IA often will experience an even greater degree of panic if they are confined in a crate. Dogs who are destructive in the home due to immaturity and/or lack of house manners are often crated to protect the home, but this is generally not a viable option for SA/IA dogs. Panicked dogs have injured themselves and even died in the process of trying to escape from their crates.

For more details and advice on ways to prevent and cure canine separation anxiety, read Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Separation Anxiety.

Training Tips for Timid Dogs

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Editorial Staff

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October 25, 2022

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Here are some tips for those who have already adopted a shy guy.

Locate a qualified positive behavior professional who can work with you to help your dog become more comfortable in his world. Try the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (iaabc.org) or Truly Dog Friendly (trulydogfriendly.com) for good lists of positive behavior professionals.

Have a solid understanding of counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D), and make a strong commitment to practice this with your dog every single day.

Read about the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) procedure and consult with your behavior professional to determine if this procedure might be a useful behavior modification tool in your dog’s program.

Teach your dog to target (to touch his nose to a designated target on cue). Dogs get confident about targeting (most love it!), and you can use the behavior to help him be more confident in situations where he’s mildly to moderately fearful.

Assertively protect your dog from unwanted advances by well-meaning strangers who want to pet your dog. You must not let people pet or harass him until he is socialized enough to tolerate petting and harassment.

Be prepared for heartache. Some poorly socialized dogs respond well to remedial socialization and grow into reasonably well socialized adult dogs. Others don’t.

For more details and advice on ways to socialize your puppy or dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Socializing Your Puppy or Dog: Making a Lifelong Difference.

Why Dogs Chase Their Tails

Behavior

By

Stephanie Colman

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October 25, 2022

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Dog Biting His Tail — Try not to pay attention to, much less encourage, your dog when he’s chasing or biting at his tail. The behavior can develop into an obsessive or compulsive one in some dogs. Photo by Zuberka, Getty Images.

Dogs chase their tails for many reasons. Not sure if you should laugh it off or intervene? Here’s what you need to know.

Puppies often bite their tails as a part of their natural exploration and development. It’s like a toy – right there – attached to her body! And it’s moving, often erratically, as the puppy moves – it must be caught! At the other end of the life cycle, an older dog might engage in tail chasing as a repetitive behavior; this is not uncommon as aging dogs experience cognitive decline. And there are several more reasons in between:

Boredom and Excess Energy. A dog who lacks sufficient mental and physical stimulation may resort to tail chasing as self-entertainment and to burn off some steam. This can be especially common in younger dogs and breeds known to be highly energetic. If your dog spends the work day home alone, consider recruiting a friend or professional dog walker to help break up the day or look for a well-run dog daycare as a source of enrichment and an outlet for energy.
Medical Reasons. Allergies and parasites can also lead to tail-chasing behavior. Fleas, other parasites, and even environmental allergies can make the dog’s tail and hindquarters itchy, and they might spin and try and catch their tail in order to bite at it to relieve the itching. Also, in some dogs, tail chasing can be an obsessive behavior. If your dog’s tail chasing feels excessive or compulsive in nature, consult your veterinarian and a qualified positive-reinforcement trainer for help.
Attention Seeking. It’s hard not to laugh at a dog whirling itself into a dizzying frenzy in pursuit of the seemingly just-out-of-reach extension of its backbone. Dog chases its tail, we laugh, dog notices our attention to his shenanigans, and voilà! The tail chasing has been reinforced! You might think treats reign supreme when it comes to reinforcing behavior, but attention is a big deal – especially when you’re busy and not directly engaging with your dog.

If your dog’s tail chasing is infrequent, doesn’t last for long periods, and you can easily redirect him to another activity, it’s likely just a harmless behavior she enjoys – and it’s totally OK to laugh. If the tail chasing bothers you, make a point not to laugh – act like your dog is invisible. Once he stops chasing his tail, calmly redirect his attention to another activity such as chewing a favorite bone on his bed and offer calm praise (attention!) for that behavior instead.

Single Puppy Syndrome

Puppies

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Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA

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October 24, 2022

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Fat puppy — Singleton puppies miss out on opportunities to learn basic canine communication and behavioral coping skills from their littermates, sometimes setting them up for frustration and sensitivity to handling later in life.

Occasionally a mother dog gives birth to just one puppy – often called a “singleton” pup. Fortunately it’s a relatively rare occurrence, although more likely to occur in small breeds, as they tend to have smaller litters anyway. Sometimes called “single puppy syndrome,” this can result in lifelong behavior challenges for the unfortunate baby dog who has no siblings to teach her important social skills. The good news is that while your singleton pup may offer you some behavioral challenges, she is not likely to suffer from significant health issues as a result of her singleton status.

Why Does Single Puppy Syndrome Happen?

A puppy’s critical socialization period occurs from 3 weeks of age to 12 to14 weeks. During this time puppies crawl over each other, play together, and squabble over access to mom’s milk bar.

Puppies bite each other in play, and if one bites too hard the other pup may yelp and stop playing. This is how puppies learn bite inhibition. Without littermates to teach this behavior, a puppy doesn’t learn to control her mouth pressure – much to the dismay of her future human family.

Other problems commonly found in singleton pups include being unable to problem-solve calmly, low tolerance for frustration, poor social skills, poor impulse control, and sensitivity to touch and handling.

What if I Have a Singleton Puppy?

Ideally the breeder of a singleton pup will find another similar-age litter with which to spend those first weeks so she has more normal experiences as a young puppy. If this didn’t happen, you’ll need to teach bite inhibition and handle your puppy a lot to avoid touch sensitivity issues. Have her spend time with other similar age and size puppies as much and as early and as often as possible during the first 12 weeks so she learns social skills.

If it’s too late for that, plan on doing extra behavior modification work to help your pup overcome her early social deprivation – lots of interaction with socially appropriate dogs, conditioning to handling, redirecting her hard mouth to toys, and teaching her to bite only gently. (See: “Teaching Your Puppy Bite Inhibition” and “How to Train Your Dog to Accept Husbandry Chores“).

Download The Full November 2022 Issue PDF

By

Nancy Kerns

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October 21, 2022

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Elevated Bowls
Good Dog Vibrations
Coconut Oil for Dogs
Oh, Won’t You Stay?
Scary Stool
Surviving Shedding
Leaving Without a Word
Long-Distance Travel
Seriously Itchy Paws
Bully-Stick Holder

Metamucil For Dogs

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Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM

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October 21, 2022

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Veterinarians clean the paraanal glands of a dog in a veterinary clinic. A necessary procedure for the health of dogs. Pet care — Before reaching for Metamucil for dogs, discuss the symptoms your dog is showing with your veterinarian to ensure the problem is simple enough for Metamucil or pumpkin to help. Credit: Kateryna Kukota / Getty Images

You can use Metamucil for dogs to combat minor gastrointestinal upsets, like diarrhea and constipation. Along with canned pumpkin, Metamucil is one of the vet-recommended home remedies for dog anal glands problems.

Metamucil is an over-the-counter psyllium fiber supplement designed for people. A plain psyllium product without flavors or sweeteners of any kind is the only psyllium for your dog—but you need to be especially careful here, as it can be very difficult to find unflavored, unsweetened psyllium products in your local grocery store. It may be wise to choose a psyllium product made for dogs.

You may wonder about Metamucil vs. pumpkin as an option to add fiber to your dog’s meals. Both help with constipation and diarrhea in dogs, which sounds contradictory, but they both add fiber, and therefore bulk, to the stool. Fiber eases constipation by stimulating the bowel muscle and draws in fluid to help bowel movements flow more easily. For diarrhea, fiber firms up stool and slows the transit time in the intestines.

The Metamucil dosage for dogs is up to 1 teaspoon (tsp) twice a day for dogs of 50 lbs. Medium dogs of 35 to 50 pounds should get no more than ½ tsp, and small dogs are best at ¼ tsp maximum. Start low and raise the amount to find the lowest effective dose for your dog. It is extremely important that your dog has excess to plenty of fresh water and is drinking that water, if you give any psyllium fiber product like Metamucil.

Dosages for plain (no added spices) canned pumpkin are: for small dogs, 1 heaping tsp canned pumpkin per meal; for medium dogs, 1 heaping tablespoon (tbsp) canned pumpkin per meal; and for larger dogs, 2 heaping tbsp canned pumpkin per meal.

Adding fiber is generally a simple, safe way to help your dog over a bout of diarrhea or constipation. However, with many potentially serious causes of both, it’s important to check with your veterinarian. For example, if your dog has an intestinal blockage—and both diarrhea and constipation are possible symptoms—giving Metamucil won’t help and may make things worse.

Be Careful with Psyllium Products

Read the ingredients carefully. Many flavored versions contain the artificial sweetener xylitol, which can be fatally toxic to dogs.
Provide lots of water and be sure your dog is drinking it.
Consult your veterinarian before starting psyllium supplementation.

Should You Shave a Dog?

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Kate Basedow, LVT

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October 20, 2022

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Should you shave a dog? Depends on the dog. — Some dog breeds, like Poodles or Poodle mixes like this Labradoodle, need to be shaved regularly because the hair continuously grows. But most dog breeds do not need to be shaved. © dikushin / Getty Images.

Should you shave your dog? Well, most dogs don’t need to be shaved—and there are dog breeds that should not be shaved it can be necessary. First, though, it’s important to understand why shaving is not generally recommended for dogs.

Evolutionary Wonders

Your dog’s coat protects his skin from the elements. Long, harsh guard hairs deflect rain and slip right through brambles, while a dense, soft undercoat provides insulation from both heat and cold. If the hair isn’t matted or tangled, air can move freely through the layers of the coat to provide ventilation. The dog will shed excess undercoat in the summer to help free up additional space for airflow and bulk up again for extra warmth in the winter.

Dog breeds selected for companionship often have longer or softer coats that are more pleasant to pet and attractive to look at, but they are also higher maintenance. Dog breeds developed to serve a working purpose, such as herding, hunting, and sled dogs, typically have a more natural coat that protects the dog from harm.

Dog Breeds That Should Not Be Shaved

A full-body shave is not necessary for most dogs. Shaving a double-coated dog, such as a Samoyed, German Shepherd Dog, or even Golden Retriever, is generally not a good idea. Shaving removes the insulation his body is used to and exposes the skin to the sun, sticks, and branches.

Shaving a dog’s coat to the skin can damage hair follicles, increasing the risk of ingrown hairs, and potentially alter the texture of the hair.

Instead of shaving your dog, brush him regularly. This removes dead hair, promotes healthy skin, and enables good air flow through the coat. This is the best way to help most dogs stay cool in the summer (as well as providing water and shade, of course!).

When Shaving Is Needed

Shaving your dog may be necessary in some situations:

Thick mats or tangles that would be painful to remove by hand
Hot spots and skin infections
Medical procedures like surgery or placing a catheter
Health or behavioral conditions that alter the skin and coat or prevent normal grooming

If you have a dog with a thick, dense, or long coat and live somewhere with hot, humid summers, shaving his belly may help with cooling. Shave his underside to provide extra ventilation, leaving the coat on his back and sides to protect him from the sun.

Dogs with continuously growing hair, such as Poodles and Poodle mixes, and dogs with extremely long hair, such as Shih Tzu and Cocker Spaniels, do benefit from regular haircuts. Trimming that long, soft hair to a shorter length prevents tangles if you aren’t up for daily grooming. But, still, shaving down to the skin is still not necessary for a healthy dog.

Dog Breed Biases: We All Have Them (Admit it!)

Blog

By

Nancy Kerns

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October 19, 2022

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three mutt dogs — I love big mutts and I cannot lie! ©Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

Are there breeds you love and breeds you don’t get the appeal of? I think we all do – though I would be the first to admit that there are always exceptions to any rule. I love Border Collies – but I’ve met individual ones that aggravated me. And I am generally not a fan of German Shorthair Pointers (or Wirehaired Pointers, for that matter), but one of the sweetest, funniest GSPs is in my extended family and I adore her.

In my opinion, hunting dogs in general are some of the prettiest dogs there are. But if they come from a long line of hunters, I tend to find it annoying to walk with them. I enjoy walking with my dogs, interacting with them, racing and playing with them, and watching them scan and joyfully take in their environment. I do not enjoy feeling like I have to prevent the dog I am walking with from scanning the environment for small creatures that they might be able to kill. As such, I love hounds – but only the ones who aren’t into hunting!

I was raised around dogs who were bred to herd cattle – Kelpies and Australian Cattle Dogs and various mixes of these – but I tend not to enjoy the intensity, grit, and independence that these dogs are known for. However, I have lots of friends who enjoy them for those traits alone; some people prefer having somewhat aloof dogs who can take care of themselves without a lot of fuss.

I was an adult before I was introduced to the typically softer, more responsive Border Collie – still a herding breed, but one that tends to be more attuned to humans, more solicitous of our affection and approval than the tougher dogs bred to take the hard knocks of cattle herding. My BC Rupert, a “pet quality” pup who was practically given away (in contrast to his high-cost, sheep-herding prospect littermates), opened my heart forever to these sensitive and quirky dogs.

But as much as I admire purpose-bred dogs, I don’t want one for myself. I’m afraid I’m always going to be a mutt lover. I love big mutts and I cannot lie! I get such a kick out of trying to guess what mixed-breed puppies will look like– how big they will be! – when they mature. And I love trying to identify what breed their personality traits and tendencies may be attributable to – if any! My two most muttliest mutts – the two dogs that show the most breeds in their mixed-breed DNA tests – don’t show any particular traits that align with any breeds at all!

Are there breeds you’d never own? Do you always get dogs of the same breed? Or do you select dogs without regard to their breed?

Why Do Dogs Dig In Their Beds?

Behavior

By

John Strassburger

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October 19, 2022

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A Small Lonely Sad Dog Puppy Is Resting Sleeping On The Bed In The Bedroom Waiting For The Owner — Maybe that mussed up bed becomes perfectly comfortable after a little digging. ©Elizaveta Starkova / EyeEm

Dogs dig in their beds for many reasons, but behaviorists say the No. 1 reason dogs dig in their beds is instinct. It’s what Mother Nature tells them to do before they lie down.

The instinct to dig, scratch, or circle comes from the days—centuries ago—when dogs were wild. They had to scratch at the ground to form a bed of some kind, to get comfortable, to get warm or cool, and to check for predators like snakes and spiders. So, it’s normal, but sometimes a dog’s bed scratching or digging can become obsessive and require trainer or veterinary intervention.

Dogs dig at their beds or yours for other reasons, too. The most common other reason is believed to be their need to mark their territory, through glands in their footpads that say, “This is my bed!”

This is especially true if you have more than one dog using the same bed. Remember, dogs have very sensitive noses, and they can tell if another dog has been there. A dog checking a scent is like us reading the newspaper—it’s where he gets information on what’s been happening. Instinct then tells the dog to dig and scratch to erase the other dog’s scent.

Another common reason dogs scratch in beds is that they’re looking for toys or food. Or they could be just curious about what might be hidden in that bed because they previously found a treasure.

Expert theories also state digging in a bed could be a frustrated response to not being allowed to do something else, like going outside, chewing on something, or barking because someone rang the doorbell. They could be seeking attention, and they know scratching will get a response from you—a laugh or a shout to stop.

Finally, old dogs are thought to scratch the bed because some part of their body hurts, and they just want the bed to be more comfortable. And they sometimes circle in the bed. Don’t worry about that either. It’s also natural.

Whole Dog Journal reviews dog food, dog toys, and dog health and care products, and also teaches positive dog training methods.

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Therapeutic Laser Therapy for Dogs

Supplies and Equipment for Your New Puppy

Excerpted from Puppy Basics by Pat Miller, CPDT and Nancy Kerns

Different Reasons, Different Solutions

Punishment works …. but here is why training experts don’t use it.

These Behaviors May Indicate Separation Anxiety

Training Tips for Timid Dogs

Why Dogs Chase Their Tails