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Split or Broken Dog Nails: Treatment and Care

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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broken dog nail
This nail was broken nearly all the way off, leaving the nailbed painfully exposed. The dog’s owner was able to pull off the broken remnant with her fingers. Note that the dog’s nails are too long; long nails break easily. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

Torn or split nails are a fairly common problem with dogs but can be easily addressed by either you or your veterinarian. Some torn or damaged claws are not easy to remove, or may be so painful for your dog that he requires sedation to properly remove the damaged claw. Seek veterinary care in these situations, or if you notice a foul odor or discharge from the nailbed, or if the affected toe appears red and swollen. These are signs of an infection and an antibiotic may need to be prescribed.

But if there are no signs of infection, and your dog will allow you to examine the damaged nail, you can treat the broken or split nail yourself. Be aware, however, that torn nails are very painful. Even the sweetest dog on earth may get a little snippy about having a torn claw touched.

Place an Elizabethan collar on your dog (a.k.a. a “cone”). You can also use a muzzle. This will keep you from being accidentally bitten as you take care of the broken nail.

How to Fix a Vertically Split Nail for a Dog

If the nail has been split vertically with the quick exposed and one side of the nail is freely movable, then you can try trimming away that side of the claw. Get as close to the base of the split as you can without damaging or cutting the quick.

If the nail is split or cracked vertically but both sides of the claw are firmly attached to the quick, then treatment is as follows: Trim the end of the claw as you normally would for routine nail trims. Then round the end of the claw and the edges of the crack with a nail file or, better yet, a Dremel tool. This will help to keep the claw from getting snagged and causing further damage.

dog paw boots
In the package, Pawz resemble uninflated balloons. But they protect your dog’s feet well – and few dogs mind having them on. Photo courtesy of Pawz.

Ideally, have your dog wear a protective boot on the affected paw for about a week until the claw starts to grow out past the split point. (My favorite products for this purpose are called Pawz; they are thin, lightweight, and well tolerated by most dogs, even ones that don’t like to wear boots. They are available online and in many major pet supply chain stores.)

Whatever you do, do not use superglue on a vertically split nail! When applied to a surface, superglue undergoes a chemical reaction that generates heat. If you apply superglue to a cracked nail, the heat it generates may burn the very sensitive quick.

Home Treatment for Broken Dog Nails

dog at vet with torn nail
It’s definitely easier for a veterinarian to address your dog’s broken nail – especially with the help of a local anesthetic and/or a sedative. But if there is no sign of infection, and your dog will allow you to examine the nail, you may be able to treat it yourself. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

If your dog’s nail is bleeding, address that first. Apply a generous layer of styptic powder (often sold under the name “Kwik Stop”) to the torn nail. If you don’t have styptic powder, you can use flour or corn starch.

Applying a cool compress to the nail and toe for a few minutes will help slow the blood flow from the exposed nailbed. A Chinese herb called yunnan baiyao may also help stop the bleeding. Just open the capsule and apply the contents to the exposed nailbed.

Once the bleeding has stopped completely, you can address the torn nail with the following steps.

  1. Remove the damaged part of the nail. If the nail is almost completely torn off, you may be able to remove the damaged nail with just a quick pull using a pair of tweezers or your fingers. If it is loose but still somewhat attached, then you may need to trim off the damaged part using nail trimmers.
  2. Gently clean the affected toe and nail with a chlorhexidine-based disinfectant solution, such as Dermachlor (chlorhexidine gluconate 0.2%). You can also use dish soap and warm water. Be sure to rinse the paw and dry it well.
  3. Apply a bandage to the affected paw to protect the exposed nailbed as it heals. Place a non-stick pad (also known as a non-adhesive pad or Telfa pad) over the end of the affected toe. Wrap soft cotton cast padding or rolled gauze around the paw and over the non-stick pad to hold it in placeNext, you need to cover the padding or gauze with a couple layers of fabric self-adhesive wrap (such as Vetrap), but before you do this, unroll and then re-roll some of the wrap before you apply it. This removes the tension from the roll so that you don’t make the bandage too tight. You may apply a layer of first-aid adhesive tape at the top of the bandage to help hold it in place. Do not make the bandage tight! The goal is to simply protect the exposed nailbed.
  1. Replace the bandage once a day for the next three to five days. Keep the bandage clean and dry and replace the bandage immediately if it becomes wet or soiled. You can apply a layer of Press’n Seal plastic wrap to the bandage before your dog goes out in the rain or snow. Be sure to remove the plastic wrap after your dog comes back inside.
  2. Have your dog wear an Elizabethan or other recovery collar while the paw is bandaged to prevent him from chewing off the bandage. If your dog continues to lick his paw after the bandage is no longer necessary, he may need to wear the Elizabethan collar for a few additional days until the nailbed is no longer sensitive.
dog nail degloved
The paw has been gently washed and the hair around the broken nail has been clipped (as much as could be without touching the nailbed). Once the paw is dry (and the other nails trimmed), the paw should be wrapped. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

You can find the necessary bandage supplies, including fabric adhesive wrap, in the first aid section of pharmacies or grocery stores. The wrap and chlorhexidine cleansing solution can be found at most pet supply stores or through online pet supply retailers. It’s a good idea to have these supplies on hand so that you have them when the need arises. (See “12 Items to Include in Your DIY First-Aid Kit,” WDJ April 2022.)

How Long Does it Take for a Dog’s Broken Nail to Heal

A claw that has been torn will take several weeks to grow back. The new claw will likely appear normal but may be somewhat deformed. If your dog appears sensitive about walking on the affected paw, you may want to apply a protective boot when walking outside. Again, this is a situation where one of the Pawz lightweight rubber boots would be perfect.

Trimming your dog’s claws regularly can help minimize the risk of tearing a nail. Once a month is a typical routine, although some dogs may require trimming every two to three weeks.

If you notice that your dog’s claws seem brittle or if the claws are lifting off and separating from the nailbed on a regular basis, have your dog assessed by a veterinarian. Certain fungal and bacterial infections, autoimmune disorders, and endocrine diseases can cause abnormal growth of the claws or brittle nails.

Safe Dog Food Storage

By
CJ Puotinen
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It’s a pain to make big bags fit in some containers, but it can be done; that’s a full, new 26-pound bag in there! If this is too difficult for you, either get a bigger container or buy smaller bags, because your dog’s food is safest when kept in its original bag. If you absolutely insist on pouring it out of the bag into a container, use only an air-tight, food-safe container and wash it each and every time before you add new food to it to prevent rancid oils on the interior surfaces from contaminating the new food. Photo by Nancy Kerns

What’s the best way to store dry dog food? The perfect storage container is important – but focus first on what you’ll put into it:

When shopping, check the “best by” dates on the packages and don’t buy foods that are within six months of expiration. Buy the bags with the farthest-away expiration dates.

Buy an appropriate amount, only as much as you’ll use within a month to six weeks.

Buy a food that your dog enjoys. The fats in dry dog food become increasingly rancid with age, so an unfavorite food will smell and taste even worse to your dog as time passes.

Avoid These Mistakes in Storing Dog Food

Don’t store food in a warm or damp location or in direct sunlight. The U.S. Food & Drug Administration recommends storing dog food in a cool (below 80 degrees Fahrenheit), dry place to retard fat oxidation and prevent degradation of vitamins and antioxidants.

Don’t use your garage for storage unless it’s cool, dry, climate-controlled, clean, and free from rodents and insects.

Don’t transfer food from its original bag into a plastic bin or storage container. Chemicals in different types of plastic “migrate” into foods that contain fat. Dog food bags are made of plastics that have the lowest rate of additive migration.

Don’t toss the package the food came in before your dog finishes it. If your dog gets sick, you’ll need its manufacturer, brand name, ingredients, and specific lot number to tie the food to the problem.

Don’t add new food to old food, as doing so spreads any potential contamination to the new food and hastens the development of rancidity.

Use the Best Dog Food Storage Containers

Because it’s best to keep dry dog food in its original package, buy a container that’s large enough for the entire bag to fit inside. Ideal storage containers have an air-tight seal. Your options include:

  • A rolling plastic bin with wheels that make it easy to move.
  • A plastic storage vault with a circular lid that creates an air-tight seal.
  • A metal storage bin with an air-tight lid, which will be more expensive but more durable than plastic. Metal bins also protect against sunlight exposure (and the potential for rodents to chew through the plastic to reach the food).
  • Glass jars with air-tight lids. These work well for small dogs; just keep them in a safe place where they aren’t likely to break.

If you absolutely cannot deal with keeping your dog’s food in its original bag, and must dump it into a container, make certain that the container is either inert (glass or metal) or made of food-grade plastic that is free of bisphenol A (BPA-free). The international symbol for “food safe” material is a wine glass and a fork symbol. Also, you should wash the container with warm soapy water and allow it to dry completely before refilling it each time.

 

Benadryl for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog near a beehive
Take a Benadryl tablet cut to the correct dosage, if your dog is going to insist on accompanying you to check out nearby beehives. If he doesn’t mind staying home, all the better. Credit: victorass88 / Getty Images

Benadryl is an over-the-counter human medication you can use for dogs with an allergic reaction, such as from a bee sting. Benadryl, or generic diphenhydramine, is an antihistamine approved for people.

Benadryl is not FDA-approved for use in dogs, but it is commonly used off label. Benadryl can be purchased as 25-milligram (mg) tablets and 50-milligram “extra strength” tablets. You must be certain which Benadryl you have before giving it to your dogs. Most veterinary dosages are based on the 25-mg tablet.

In general, Benadryl doses for dogs—provided the dog is not vomiting or showing signs of diarrhea, weakness, or collapse—is approximately 1 to 2 mg of diphenhydramine per pound of body weight. That means a full 25-mg tablet is appropriate for a dog weighing 14 to 28 lbs. PreventiveVet has a clickable dosage chart. Just enter your dog’s weight, and it tells you how much diphenhydramine you can give the dog, based on 25 mg tablets.

Warning: If using any human diphenhydramine or Benadryl product, check how much diphenhydramine it contains and all other ingredients. Some products contain decongestants, which are dangerous for dogs. In addition, products containing alcohol or xylitol can harm or kill your dog.

While Benadryl often makes people drowsy, it has less of an effect on dogs. Still, it can reduce anxiety for some dogs and may help with nausea, such as car sickness. Be forewarned, however, that some dogs become anxious and hyper from Benadryl. If you’re looking for anti-anxiety meds for your dog, talk with your veterinarian.

Benadryl helps manage mild symptoms of seasonal allergies. For dogs, that often means itching and/or hives. You may see the dog rubbing his face, ears, and eyes, and maybe sneezing. Benadryl helps relieve inflammation and reduce swelling.

Always check with your veterinarian before giving your dog this medication, as it may not be appropriate for your individual dog based on your dog’s health, other medications, and what you think you’re treating. Include Benadryl in your pet first-aid kit but be proactive and get the specific dose for your dog from your vet ahead of time and put it with the drug.

DIY Gifts for Dogs: Homemade Dog Shampoo

By
CJ Puotinen
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Homemade dog shampoo in reusable glass bottles
Refillable glass jars and bottles with pump or spray tops are available in most health food stores.

These easy DIY dog gifts are worth making for yourself as well as dog-loving friends. Natural food stores and online retailers sell a variety of tins, jars, spray bottles, pump dispensers, tubes, and other containers for grooming products.

For homemade dog treat recipes, see our article, DIY Gifts for Dogs: Healthy Homemade Dog Treat Recipes. 

Basic Shampoo Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups warm water
  • 1⁄2 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons baking soda
  • 1⁄4 cup natural liquid castile soap like Dr. Bronner’s
  • 4 drops essential oil, such as lavender, chamomile, or peppermint

Instructions: Combine and shake to mix. Avoid the eyes when shampooing. Lather and rinse well.

See more homemade dog shampoo recipes. 

Itchy Skin Rinse Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1⁄4 cup aloe vera juice or gel
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable glycerin
  • 10 to 15 drops lavender or chamomile essential oil

Instructions: Combine ingredients, shake well, and apply by spraying or dabbing onto affected areas as needed.

Soothing Dog Paw-Butter

Dog-paw butter protects feet in hot and cold weather, soothes cracked or sore paw pads, and blocks winter salt burn. It can also be applied to cracked noses. Save some for yourself and your friends as this is an effective lip balm and a great moisturizing salve for cuticles, hands, and feet.

In a wide-mouth pint-sized glass canning jar combine:

Ingredients:

  • 1⁄3 cup olive, sunflower, sweet almond, or jojoba oil
  • 1⁄3 cup coconut oil
  • 2 tablespoons shea butter or mango butter
  • 2 tablespoons beeswax (chopped or beads)

Instructions:

Place the jar in a saucepan containing a cup of water to create a double boiler. Over low heat, gently stir the ingredients with a wooden chopstick until they are fully combined.

Optional: add the contents of a vitamin E oil capsule

Optional: add 10 drops tea tree, lavender, chamomile, or other essential oil

Leave a metal spoon in the freezer while you make the salve. To test its consistency, dip the frozen spoon into the melted blend and apply to your hand. If it’s too stiff, add a little oil; if it’s too liquid, add more beeswax. When it’s just right, pour it into small jars or tins.

Model Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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dog grabbing treat
Trying to inspire Boone to chomp on some ham in a teeth-baring, shark-like fashion. ©Nancy Kerns

I often use my dogs to help me with my work. They wear test products (from flotation devices to breakaway safety collars), and they get called upon to learn any behavior being taught step-by-step by one of our training authors (both to test the clarity of the instructions and the efficacy of the methods). But they also get to sample any foods, treats, supplements, and chews that happen to arrive in my home office and play with any toys I am testing for durability and dog-appeal. Sometimes their avid interest in a toy or treat – or their ability to break something within minutes – will help form our opinion of a product.

All the while, I take note – and I take pictures. I document everything! Pictures of the good things they get to experience sometimes end up on our Instagram account (@dogsofwholedogjournal); photos of the less pleasant things that happen to them – from split nails (Woody, again and again) to neuter surgery (sorry, Boone) – get filed away to use if we ever publish an article on that topic.

The most difficult thing they sometimes have to do in the course of their “employment” is take part in training sessions to illustrate WDJ’s how-to articles. It’s one thing if I ask them to demonstrate something they already know how to do, or to learn a new trick; they enjoy training! I’m sure it’s a little confusing, though, when I try to compel them to do something for the camera that runs counter to our real training practice.

For example, at times in the past, for the sake of an illustrative photo, I’ve hyped Woody into jumping up on a friend in greeting, allowed Otto to bark at the mailman on the other side of the fence, and encouraged my son’s dog to appear as if he’s counter-surfing (I got some grief from my son about that!). And just today, I got some ham out of the refrigerator and did my best to inspire Boone to grab at the treat shark-fashion, teeth flashing and eyes rolled back in his head, the way he did in the first training classes I brought him to a month ago.

Why, you ask? In the case of Boone and the ham, I tried to capture what it looks like when a dog is stressed during a behavioral “temperature check” as explained in “Teach Your Dog to ‘Leave It’ Without Using a Cue” by a new training contributor, Jennifer Burns, owner of Conscious Dog Training in Texas. When Jennifer described how a dog takes a treat when he’s feeling stressed – too stressed to absorb much of a training session – I knew exactly what that looks like: Boone a month ago! Happily, Boone’s emotional “temperature” has gone down in new environments since then; the photo I took is just a dramatic (and delicious) recreation.

Do Dogs Sweat?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Happy dog runs in the park
Dogs sweat through their paws, but it’s ineffective. A dog with a long, wide tongue is overheated. Credit: SDI Productions Creative

Yes. Dogs sweat. Unfortunately, it’s an ineffective process, and you won’t see sweat dripping from their bodies when overheated, like a human or a horse does.

Dogs sweat through their paws, which have sweat glands on the pads. You might notice a damp set of pawprints if your dog has been sitting somewhere that makes him nervous or if he is very hot. But it’s not enough. Pads aren’t an effective way for your dog to cool off.

The most effective way for dogs to cool off is via panting. As your dog pants, the moisture from his tongue and mouth evaporates, helping to cool him. This panting is why plenty of fresh water is so important for your dog on hot days. He needs that liquid to keep his mouth moist and allow evaporative cooling. Watch how long and wide his tongue gets as he pants. The more surface area he has on his tongue, the more cooling power. If your dog’s tongue is long and wide, he’s too warm.

Along with panting, dogs will do some vasodilation on hot days, which means blood vessels open wider to allow more blood circulation near the surface of the skin. You might notice the inside of your dog’s ears are red, especially if he is short-haired and has prick ears. The bigger the ear, the more cooling power.

The groin area also gets more blood flow when your dog is hot, which is why it’s a good area for applying cool compresses or wet with a sponge if your dog is overheated. If possible, ask your overheated dog to wade into a lake or shallow pool, like a kiddie pool. Avoid wetting him with water that is overly cold, as it will cause blood vessels to constrict, which is counterproductive to cooling.

Fans or getting your dog somewhere with a cool breeze or in an air-conditioned environment will help to cool him off as well. The breeze increases the evaporation rate. Think about how you feel better even just fanning yourself when you are hot and sweaty.

So, yes, dogs do sweat but panting is their “chilling off” superpower!

Home Remedies for Dry Skin on Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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Dog Taking Bath At Domestic Bathroom. Showering Of Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever At Home
Soap or shampoo residue that’s left in the coat can contribute to dry skin, as can washing your dog too frequently. If your dog suffers from dry, itchy skin, bathe her less often, rinse very well when you do, and try one of the topical remedies described here. Photo by Jaromir Chalabala / EyeEm Getty Images.

Dry skin can be as uncomfortable for dogs as it is for people. The outermost layer of skin, called the epidermis, creates new skin cells and retains moisture in healthy dogs but when dry, cracked, and flaky, it creates irritation, dander, hair loss, scabs, bumps, itching, and scratching. Your veterinarian can diagnose and treat conditions that require medical attention, but if your dog is otherwise healthy, you can improve her dry skin and coat with simple home remedies. Frequent brushing will help, too, by distributing the natural oils in your dog’s coat.

Causes of dry skin in dogs

Dry skin in dogs can be caused by:

  • Allergies, sensitivities, or contact dermatitis
  • Drying soaps or shampoos
  • Failing to adequately rinse out soaps or shampoo
  • Baths that are too frequent or too hot
  • Dry weather or low humidity
  • External parasites like fleas or mites
  • Autoimmune disorders
  • Underlying illnesses like Cushing’s disease or hypothyroidism

If the following remedies for your dog’s dry skin fail to bring her relief, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to make sure there is not an underlying health issue contributing to the problem.

What can I put on my dog for dry skin?

Oatmeal and aloe vera are proven skin protectors that help form a protective barrier that slows the loss of natural oils from your dog’s coat while soothing itchy, irritated, flaking skin.

Make your own oatmeal bath

  • Place 1/2 to 1 cup of plain, unflavored oatmeal (instant, quick, or slow-cooking) in a blender, coffee grinder, or food processor.
  • Process on the highest setting until the oats form a very fine powder.
  • Pour the oat powder into warm (not hot) running water in your tub. Fill the tub to a comfortable level for your dog.
  • Place your dog in the tub and use a cup to pour the oatmeal bath over his body.
  • Massage the bath water into the dog’s skin and if possible, keep him soaking for 5 to 10 minutes.
  • Rinse your dog well with warm (not hot) water, then dry well with towels and gently brush the coat.

Apply aloe vera

  • Pure aloe vera juice or gel (one made with aloe vera alone, without additives) is an economical skin treatment for your dog. Simply apply, work it into the skin, and let dry.

Rinse or spray your dog with an herbal tea

  • Place 6 teabags or 6 teaspoons of dried herbs (chamomile, calendula, or green tea) in a 1-quart glass jar.
  • Fill the jar with boiling water and close the lid.
  • Let stand until it cools to room temperature. This tea will stay fresh in your refrigerator for a week.
  • Strain and use as a final rinse after bathing or spray onto your dog’s wet or dry coat, working It in well so it reaches the skin.
  • Let the coat air dry, then gently brush your dog.

Is coconut oil good for my dog’s skin?

Yes, and it can be applied topically (massaged into the skin) or added to food. Apply by working 1/2 teaspoon at a time into your dog’s skin, head to tail, and brush well.

To feed coconut oil, start with small amounts and gradually increase to 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds (1 tablespoon per 30 pounds) of body weight daily.

Is Some Resource Guarding Normal?

By
Editorial Staff
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Resource Guarding

Excerpted from an article by Pat Miller

Resource guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. In fact it’s a normal behavior for most warm-blooded animals. Even we humans guard our resources – sometimes quite fiercely. Think about it. We lock our doors. Store clerks have loaded .22 rifles under checkout counters, while homeowners keep shotguns and baseball bats leaning in the corner by the back door. Banks keep valuables in vaults. Some of us get insanely jealous if someone pays too much attention to our significant other.

Dogs guard their resources as well, sometimes quite fiercely. This is most troublesome when they guard from humans, but can also get them in hot water when they guard from other dogs. That said, some dog-dog guarding behavior is quite appropriate and acceptable.

As an example: In a dog park or doggie daycare, Dog A is chewing happily on a (insert any valuable resource here). Curious, Dog B approaches. Dog A gives Dog B “the look.” Dog B quickly defers, saying “Oh, excuse me!” by calmly turning and walking away. No harm done. Much of the time the dogs’ owner isn’t even aware that this occurred.

This is the ideal resource-guarding scenario. Many times, however, other, less appropriate scenarios occur.

To read about these scenarios along with advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, read Whole Dog Journal‘s ebook Resource Guarding.

Can Your Dog Settle Down on Cue?

By
Editorial Staff
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Calm Down Rover

An important skill for impulse control is the ability to settle down in the face of excitement. There is a lot of value in “installing an off switch” in your dog! It translates into the ability to get your dog to settle on cue even when she is very excited. This is especially useful when you want to let your dog know that an activity or a game has ended. Some high-energy dogs simply don’t know when to stop, and they can keep going long after you’ve already tired of the activity.

An effective way to turn off activity in an action-loving dog is to teach an “all done” cue. This one doesn’t specifically tell the dog what to do – it just signals to her that the activity is over. Use any cue that makes sense to you, such as “All done!” or “That’s all!”.

The sooner you “install” an off-switch in your high-energy, activity-persistent dog, the better. Remember, the longer the reinforcement history for persistence, the more persistent she’ll be.

  1. Start teaching this behavior by engaging in your dog’s favorite activity – say, fetching a ball.
  2. After a reasonable period of fetch time, say “All done!” and put the ball away, out of sight, perhaps in a nearby cupboard.
  3. Give your dog a reasonable alternative that she can do by herself, such as emptying a stuffed Kong.
  4. Go sit down and occupy yourself with something, such as reading a book, watching TV, or web-surfing.
  5. Ignore any attempts on your dog’s behalf to re-engage you, such as going to the cupboard and barking, or bringing you a different toy. Don’t even repeat your off-switch cue, just ignore her.
  6. Warn all other nearby humans to similarly ignore her attempts to engage them in activity when she’s been given the “All done” cue.
  7. Be prepared to quietly (so as not to get her aroused again) praise her when she finally lies down and starts to chew on the stuffed Kong.
  8. Use your off-switch cue every time you end a play session with her favorite activity, and don’t give in if she persists. The more consistent you are, the sooner you will see her resign herself to the fact that the fun really is over when you say it is.

If your dog does not like to fetch a ball, try another similar “get excited and settle” game such as running around together with a stop and settle. Or, play tug-and-drop, or try playing with a flirt pole (a toy on the end of a rope, which is fastened to a pole) to get your dog running, and then incorporate the stop and settle.

Looking for more ways to teach your high-energy dog to chill out and relax? With Calm Down Rover from Whole Dog Journal, you’ll have instant access to vital training techniques. We all owe it to our dogs to understand why they act the way they do.

Boone & The Squirrel: Recall When Your Dog is Distracted

By
Nancy Kerns
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dog jumping at tree
Boone was running around the tree and barking, excited at the squirrel's noises. I did allow him to practice that excited behavior for about 30 seconds while I took some pictures; if I was advising another dog owner, I would have discouraged that. Still, I didn't think I'd have a problem calling him away once I got close enough – and then the unthinkable happened. ©Nancy Kerns

Dog trainers like to say that our dogs do what works for them. The thought behind that concept is that dogs are extraordinarily good at figuring out how to get what they want. Consciously and unconsciously, they constantly weigh their circumstances and make decisions about where the most benefit for them resides. What’s the most fun? Where are the most calories? Which is the most comfortable bed? Which person in the family is most likely to give them a treat, or scratch them the way they like the most?

The reason trainers tell you this is so that you don’t take your dog’s opportunistic decisions personally, or ascribe any evil intent to them when they choose chasing a squirrel over coming when called. Of course, chasing a squirrel is more fun than coming to you, even if you are armed with handfuls of delicious treats!

We can use our superior knowledge of animal behavior to manipulate their actions, though. Through a great number of trials, we can “condition” them to value coming when called, with a rich history of giving them things they value highly when they respond to our recall cue. With a rich enough reinforcement history – and not nearly as many opportunities to chase a squirrel – when momentarily caught between the stimulus of spotting a squirrel on the back fence and hearing our recall cue, their internal calculator should almost instantly tell them that the most reinforcing, enjoyable, sure thing to do would be to speed back toward you for treats or a session of tug with their favorite toy.

This can fail, though, if the reinforcement history of their squirrel chasing is richer and/or longer than their history of receiving reinforcement from you. If they get to chase squirrels daily, or perhaps have been chasing squirrels for months before you decided it was problematic and started trying to teach them to come away from the squirrels when you call – well, you’re fighting an uphill battle. You’re going to have to beat that ratio, by a lot, and for a long enough time that the thrill that courses through their body when they spot or hear a squirrel begins to fade. Ideally, you’ll reinforce the coming-when-called behavior with something that lights them up as much as squirrel-chasing did – that’s hard to do!

It will help immensely if you can somehow prevent their access to seeing, hearing, and much less chasing squirrels while you are building the reinforcement history for coming-when-called. You need time to build a mountain of reinforcement on the coming-when-called side of the decision calculator, and you can’t build a bigger mountain on that side if the contractors are building just as fast – or faster – on the squirrel-chasing side.

Bringing this all back home

As an old boyfriend who was prone to telling long stories used to say to me, I told you all that so I could tell you this:

I have been having really good success with calling 10-month-old Boone away from all sorts of distractions. We live on a corner in a rural area, on a two-acre lot, so we have a looooong fence line. When people walk or jog or bike by our house, it gives my dogs a looooong opportunity to spot the people – and potentially run to the fence and run along barking.

Dogs who bark, bark, bark without any interest or intervention from their owners is one of my pet peeves. I love for my dogs to alert me to potential intruders – but I also want them to have enough judgment to not bark when people are just passing by. I’ve spent literally hundreds of dollars on high-value treats and foods and toys so that I can richly reinforce my dogs for coming when I call them away from barking at passersby. Since I was fostering Boone since he was about 6 weeks old, long before I decided to keep him, he’s had nearly zero reinforcement history of unfettered barking at squirrels or people, or chasing either of those tempting targets down the fence line, and a ton of reinforcement for coming when called.

Remember, I work at home, so I have opportunities to do this literally all day long. I’ve done this so consistently with Boone that now, when he spots a person walking down the road, he will often let out a woof, start to run toward them, and then, without my calling him at all, turn and run at top speed to my office to receive the treat he knows will be there for him. Woohoo! Good Boone! Good Nancy!

I might have to call him if the person outside my fence is more exciting, though. People walking dogs or walking with little children are more tempting to investigate. A squirrel on the fence or running across the power lines in front of our house? That’s getting a little more exciting. Someone delivering a package to the gate is even more tempting – they might try to open the gate and come in! But still, with a high rate of reinforcement, he’s been doing great. I can call him back to me from any of those situations. He’s been doing absolutely super – and then, the other day, it all fell apart.

Squirrels: Our new nemesis

Last week, I heard Boone barking with an unfamiliar excitement in his voice, and so instead of waiting for him to return on his own, or calling him without knowing what he was barking at (it may have been an intruder, after all), I rushed out of my office toward the lawn in front of my house. As I approached, I could hear a squirrel chittering and could see Boone leaping in the air around a tall oak tree in our front yard. Whew, no intruder. I called him once, and he glanced toward me, but with the proximity of the squirrel, and my lack of proximity (I was still maybe 50 yards away), his decision calculator said, “Don’t go to her! Stay here! You’ve got this sucker!”

No big deal. I wasn’t worried; the squirrel was a good 20 feet off the ground. I would call Boone away when I got closer and anyway, I figured I should take a photo before calling him. Honestly, it was a good photo opportunity! I always have my phone in my pocket, and the light was perfect for capturing a photo of a dog leaping at a tree with a squirrel in it! I could use that photo in the magazine! And then call him off. That was my plan, anyway.

I took several photos as I walked closer, and was just about to call him when the unthinkable happened. Inexplicably, the squirrel attempted to leap from the top of the tree to another tree, but he missed the catch, and fell 20 feet through the air, landing on the grass about three feet in front of Boone. For a split second, all three of us were frozen in shock. And then Boone dived for the squirrel, and it ran frantically for the fence, about 20 feet away, with Boone snapping at his heels. He slipped through the chain link with Boone about a centimeter behind him.

Needless to say, this event was an 11 on the 1 to 10 scale of “things that get dogs berserk.” Boone looked like someone had plugged him into a light socket; he was electric with excitement. Calling him away from the fence? Impossible. He had zero brain cells available to respond to my call; they were all taken up with the task of figuring out WHERE DID THE SQUIRREL GO AND WHEN WILL IT BE BACK? HOW DID I MAKE IT FALL OUT OF THE SKY LIKE THAT? I WANT TO DO IT AGAIN! I actually picked Boone up and carried him, struggling, away from the scene. It took him a good hour to calm all the way down.

And now, despite my hundreds of dollars of spending on treats and toys, and thousands of repetitions of getting reinforced for coming when called, if there is a squirrel chittering in the trees, my mountain of reinforcement history transforms in a moment into a molehill of tasteless gravel. Ugh.

We will start rebuilding our mountain, one slow pebble at a time, but dang you, squirrel! What were you thinking?!

The only good news here is that his recall is still superb when humans walk by. Just this morning I easily called Boone away from barking at the kids who were waiting for their school bus just outside our fence. As long as none of them launch themselves over our fence and challenge Boone to a footrace, we should be okay.

Boone’s recall away from humans is still pretty good. If you listen, you can hear the kids waiting for their school bus on the other side of the fence. ©Nancy Kerns

Why Are My Dog’s Eyes Red?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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dog with eye infection
A dog with red eyes around the tissues, but not the eyeball, may be suffering from a mild infection or an allergy. Additional symptoms like swelling or signs of pain like squinting increase the potential seriousness of the red eyes. Credit: Freila / Getty Images

The seriousness of red eyes in a dog depends partially upon what part of the dog’s eye is red. If the eyes are red around the outside tissues (the conjunctiva), relax a little. While you can’t ignore a dog with eyes red around the outside, it’s unlikely to be vision-threatening. Red conjunctiva is often coupled with some discharge that ranges from clear to thick pus.

If both of your dog’s eyes are red, it may be eye allergies or an infection, although it is most likely an allergic reaction to some sort of pollen. Like allergies, mild dog eye infections symptoms include red and swollen eyes. And, while your dog needs a vet visit, it isn’t a middle of the night trip to the emergency clinic problem. (Interestingly, if your dog’s eyes only look red at night, that’s likely a normal reflection of light from red blood cells in the back of the dog’s eyes.)

A home remedy for red eyes around the outside is to gently compress the eye with a warm washcloth and remove any discharge or dried-on debris. Then flush the eyes thoroughly with artificial tears or an eye wash. Do not use any human medications for allergic eyes without consulting your veterinarian first. Try to prevent your dog from rubbing his face on the rug, furniture, or his paws.

If the dog’s eyeball is red and accompanied by squinting, pain, and/or discharge, your dog needs to be seen. An eye problem can go from minor to serious very quickly, so get your dog to your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Trauma can cause bleeding of blood vessels in the sclera (white portion of your dog’s eye). This can be caused by being hit by a car or any head trauma, and the dog needs a veterinary exam right away.

Glaucoma and uveitis are inner-eye conditions that are painful and can cause a red eye. Left untreated, these conditions can lead to blindness. Uveitis is an infection, while glaucoma is a buildup of dangerous pressure inside the eyeball. Dry eyes and corneal damage can both cause a reddish appearance to your dog’s eyes. These are also conditions that require a veterinary consultation and treatment.

How to Pick the Right Dog For Your Family

By
Editorial Staff
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Adopting Your New Dog Series

You’ve determined the source from which you want to acquire your next dog, or at least identified which sources are the most likely candidates for you. The next question is how. How do you decide which dog is the right one?

Let’s assume the family has come to agreement about breed, or at least variables like size and type. If you’re purchasing a pup from a responsible breeder, she will guide you in selecting the best pup for your circumstances and dog-owning goals. If you want to show or compete, she’ll have a good idea which of her pups are best suited for that. If you want a family companion, she’ll identify which pups in the litter are best suited for that role.

On the other hand, if she thinks your situation is totally unsuited for her breed – an active Border Collie or vocal Sheltie in a small apartment – she’ll tell you that too, and then decline to sell you a puppy. Take her advice to heart, rethink your adoption choice, and don’t just go get a puppy of the same breed from a less responsible source.

If you’re adopting from a good shelter or rescue, they will already have performed behavior assessments on your pool of prospective adoption choices, and will help you make an educated selection. If you’re doing a private adoption or looking to a group that doesn’t assess, you’ll want to do your own assessment to explore a few behaviors before you adopt. Ideally, you will share your home with your new dog for the next 10 or more years, so make sure he’s the dog you really, really want, not one you just felt really sorry for at the shelter.

If you are a novice dog owner, we recommend taking along a more knowledgeable friend, or a behavior/training professional who offers pet selection services, to help you with your decision. If you are reasonably knowledgeable about dogs and dog behavior, you should be able to determine at least some basic important qualities about your prospective adoptee on your own.

Things to look for include:

  • Does the dog happily approach to greet you? A fearful dog is probably not well-socialized, and it will take a lot of work (behavior modification) to help him become “normal.” Love is not enough! Unless you are very skilled in training and behavior and ready to commit to a significant behavior modification program, we suggest you resist the temptation to rescue a shy dog, and instead adopt a friendly one. Friendly dogs need homes, too!
  • Does the dog play well? He may or may not play with toys (some dogs need to be taught how to play with toys), but will he follow you and romp a little with you? Does he get too aroused while playing, mouthing you, jumping on you, and unwilling to calm down when you’re ready to stop? Does he have a playful world view, or does he seem very serious? Again, a playful dog will be easier to train and bond with; a serious one may be more challenging to motivate and interact with.
  • Is he easily aroused? Most pups bite some, as they explore their world with their mouths. But adolescent dogs and adults should have learned that putting teeth on humans isn’t acceptable behavior. If the dog in question gets over-aroused easily, to the point of hard biting, non-stop biting, biting clothes, or growling, snapping, and snarling, he’s a good one to avoid.
  • If the dog will take treats, can you get him to sit? Put the treat right at the end of his nose, and slowly move it back over his head. If he jumps up to get it, whisk it out of sight for a second, then try again. When he sits, say “Yes!” and feed him a bit of the treat, then try again. If he starts offering sits for your treat after a few repetitions, you have a solid-gold winner. If it’s difficult to get him to sit, and/or he doesn’t seem to get the idea after several repetitions, he’ll be a more challenging dog to train.
  • Try holding him close and looking at his teeth a few times in a row, then (carefully!) hugging him. If he resists restraint and becomes aroused, pulling away from you, perhaps even using his teeth, he probably won’t be a warm, cuddly dog – which is fine if that’s not what you want. Probably not a good choice for kids, though, who tend to want a lot of physical contact with their canine pals.
  • Speaking of kids, the dog will need to meet any human youngsters in your immediate family, and should absolutely adore them. Any reluctance on the dog’s part to engage with the kids should rule him out as an adoption prospect. Dogs who live with kids need to love them, not just tolerate them. You should also introduce your adoption prospect to any dogs you currently own before making a final commitment to adopt. Again, ideally you’ll see joyful acceptance on both sides of the canine equation. Anything less is a sign that behavior work might be necessary to keep peace in the pack.

For an expanded list of things to look for and lookout for when looking for a new dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal‘s ebook Adopting a Dog The Right Way.

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Nancy Kerns 12
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
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