I’m currently using a treat pouch that costs more than $60! It’s a nutty price, but I love the features it offers. I will write a review of it for WDJ soon.
Nearly 20 years ago, a new friend asked me, “Do you always wear one of those?” She was referring to the treat pouch, aka a “bait bag,” that I wore whenever we walked our dogs together. She wasn’t being critical; she was honestly curious. She hadn’t yet met a fan of positive reinforcement-based training. Neither had she trained her dogs with any particular goal or intention in mind! In fact, she was astounded when I started luring her chubby little senior Chihuahua into “sit” and “down” positions. She actually told me that she didn’t know that you could train a very small dog!
It didn’t take her long to buy a treat pouch of her own and to wear it whenever she takes her dogs for a walk with or without me—and today, her even smaller dog knows dozens of tricks and good-manners behaviors.
If I’m going on a walk with dogs (my dogs or anyone else’s!) I pretty much always bring a bait bag and treats along—though I am also prone to putting freeze-dried treats in my coat, vest, and/or pants pockets, and have lost more than a few pockets and garments that way. (At my age, I tend to throw off layers suddenly and abandon them; my female peers will understand. I forget that my foster dogs don’t have the restraint or habituation that my polite dogs have—and if I’ve left the room, or left dogs in my car, I often return to find that the pockets of that particular garment have been chewed through.)
This jacket actually has no working pockets; it was the victim of a foster dog from a couple of years ago. You’d think I’d learn, but my newest jacket lost a pocket to my most recent foster dog.
I use treats on off-leash walks to reward and reinforce my dogs for “checking in”—any time they are running ahead and, without prompting, turn around and come back toward me. If I have to call them at any time, whether to bring them closer to me or to move them farther from something I want them to avoid, I almost always reward them very generously. This keeps their recalls very sharp and prompt; no lingering over a cow patty or goose poop!
I am also quite generous with treats on leashed walks; I reward any extended bit of relaxed, loose-leash walking to ensure I get lots more of it! If one of my dogs shows concern or too much interest in something I would rather they ignore or pass quietly, I cue them with “Off!” and reward them for trusting me with their lack of further attention to that thing.
I also like to have treats with me in case I need to make friends with and catch—or distract and redirect—a loose dog that approaches me and my dogs. More than once, I’ve thrown a handful of treats right in the face of a loose dog who was coming in hot directly at me and my leashed dogs; most dogs will stop and blink for a moment before realizing they smell something delicious, and they will usually switch from being interested in your dogs to hunting for the treats. It’s a great technique for taking the wind out of their sails and giving you a little time and space to retreat with your dogs.
Far more of my monthly budget goes toward dog treats than treats for myself—mostly because I buy mostly high-quality, freeze-dried treats that are easy to store, don’t go bad in even double the amount of time I tend to use them, and aren’t greasy (and so don’t stain clothing). But it’s an investment in both the training and my relationship with my dogs that I wouldn’t change for anything.
Can I walk my dogs, on or off leash, without treats? Of course! And their behavior is still quite good. But I wouldn’t expect them to work every day without one of the most meaningful reinforcements available to me; that’s just taking their good behavior for granted, and I won’t do that to anyone I love.
If your dog refuses to be caught, chasing him will never work. Instead, reverse the game, and get him to run with you.
Credit: Alexsandar Nakic | Getty Images
If you call your dog and she refuses to come to you, you have a potentially dangerous situation, if she is not in a safe enclosed area. Stay calm. Do not chase her. You cannot outrun her, and any movement toward her may be perceived as engaging in a game of chase. Screaming at her or otherwise terrorizing her will only make things worse. Do not actively follow her but do try to keep an eye on her.
Just the act of following her as she strolls along just out of reach may make her think you’re on an adventure together and she’s just leading the way, so follow her, but lead off a bit in a different direction. Is she slyly checking back to be sure you’re still with her? Yup. You’re on a doggy adventure, and you need to gain control.
Run in the Opposite Direction
If your dog runs when you approach her, turn and run in the opposite direction, frequently glancing back at her and calling her name periodically. Run toward a safe place, preferably into a fenced yard or building. Engage her in a happy voice with relaxed mannerisms. Stop if you need to and act playful, encouraging her to come play with you. Your goal is to make your dog decide that being with you is way more fun than running off on her own.
You’re trying to change the dynamics of the game, so that she will try to catch you. When she catches up to you, you will have your leash ready but do NOT grab her or pounce on her. If you miss, she will bolt again, and you will have made that game of chase more fun for her. Just continue on together for a few steps.
When Your Dog Catches Up
As your dog is walking with you, sit down on the ground and encourage her to move closer to you. Don’t reach for her (the chase game is still going on). Instead, offer her a treat or three for coming to you—always have treats in your pocket when you’re with your dog!—and pet her. When she’s focused on you and looking for the next treat, offer it, and gently snap on the leash while she’s enjoying treat.
Do NOT at any point attempt to correct or reprimand her. Reward her immensely for engaging with you. At this point, your dog has forgotten about the chase “game,” so if you are angry with her now, she will assume it’s because she gave in and came to you.
Scared Dog Running Away
Remember that it’s possible that your dog may be running away from something scary, like a siren or a tarp blowing in the wind. In that case, she will probably only run a short way, then turn around and look at the threatening object. That’s your chance to run in a neutral direction, at an angle that’s away from both her and the scary thing and encourage her to follow you. And, again, this is all a reminder that you need a solid recall cue.
So, what’s your next step? Train a proper recall, which is detailed in an article by Whole Dog Journal Executive Editor Kate O’Connor.
Managing idiopathic epilepsy in dogs can be challenging but there are a number of therapies available. Credit: THEPALMER | Getty Images
Seizures in dogs can have several different triggers or causes. When no trigger or cause for seizure activity is found, then a dog is presumed to have idiopathic epilepsy.
Diagnosing Idiopathic Epilepsy in Dogs
Idiopathic epilepsy affects young dogs between the ages of six months and six years. As the name implies, the cause of idiopathic epilepsy is unknown. It is a diagnosis of exclusion, meaning that other causes of seizures must be ruled out before making this diagnosis.
Any breed of dog can be affected by idiopathic epilepsy. However, it is diagnosed more often in Schnauzers, Collies, Basset Hounds, Cocker Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, and Golden Retrievers.
If your dog is experiencing seizures, have your dog assessed by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Your veterinarian will want to complete blood work, a urinalysis, and x-rays of the chest and abdomen. She may also want to check your dog’s blood pressure and order additional tests based on what she finds on the initial diagnostics. Your dog may be referred to a veterinary neurologist for an MRI of his brain if a cause for his seizures cannot be found.
When To See a Veterinary Neurologist
Your veterinarian may recommend a consultation with a veterinary neurologist if initial diagnostics do not reveal an underlying cause of your dog’s seizures. Most people think of an expensive consultation when they hear the words “veterinary specialist.” But having a veterinarian that specializes in neurology on your team can make a huge difference in your dog’s seizure management.
A consultation with a veterinary neurologist typically costs between $200 and $300. During this consultation, your dog’s complete health and seizure history will be reviewed. Your dog will receive a complete neurologic examination. An MRI and obtaining a sample of cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) for tests may be recommended.
You do not have to follow through with completing advanced diagnostics if they are cost prohibitive. You and your dog will still benefit from advice provided by the veterinary neurologist. Veterinary neurologists are specialists who have completed an internship and residency in neurology and are board-certified in their field. They keep up to date on the latest research and advancements in treating idiopathic epilepsy.
You and your veterinarian may consult with your veterinary neurologist for up to one year following the initial consultation. Most veterinary neurologists are available by email or by phone to answer questions about managing your dog’s seizures. They can provide advice on anticonvulsant dose adjustments, adding anticonvulsants, and alternative therapies that may help your dog live a better quality of life.
Keeping your veterinary neurologist a part of your dog’s medical team will require an annual recheck examination. This maintains a valid veterinary-client-patient relationship (VCPR) and enables you and your veterinarian to continue seeking advice on how to manage your dog’s seizures.
Anticonvulsant Medications for Dogs
Idiopathic epilepsy is often managed with one or more anticonvulsant medications. These medications are given for the remainder of a dog’s life and can have long-term side effects. The decision to start anticonvulsants should be made according to your dog’s specific situation.
You should consider starting your dog on an anticonvulsant if he meets one or more of the following criteria:
He is having cluster seizures. This is two or more seizures in a 24-hour period.
He has more than one seizure per month.
He is having seizures that last five minutes or longer.
His seizures are violent and there is danger that he may hurt himself during a seizure.
He is a breed that is known to have seizures that are difficult to manage. These breeds include German Shepherds, Border Collies, Irish Setters, Golden Retrievers, Siberian Huskies, Keeshonds, and Saint Bernards.
Dogs that need their idiopathic epilepsy medically managed will be started on one of four primary anticonvulsants: phenobarbital, zonisamide, potassium bromide, or levetiracetam. Your veterinarian may recommend baseline blood work to check your dog’s liver enzymes, kidney values, and thyroid function before starting an anticonvulsant. A complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel should be completed at least every six months while taking any anticonvulsants.
There is no right or wrong primary anticonvulsant to start with for managing seizures in dogs. Factors that may influence medication selection include cost, dosing frequency, dosage form (such as liquid, capsule, or tablet), size available for your dog’s weight and your dog’s tolerance of side effects. Your veterinarian’s experience and comfort level with each anticonvulsant may also influence the drug selection.
Your veterinarian will recommend obtaining your dog’s therapeutic level of the anticonvulsant selected after he has started medication therapy. This is a blood test that examines the concentration of anticonvulsant in your dog’s bloodstream. The timing and frequency of testing will vary depending on the medication selected and how well-managed your dog’s seizures have become.
Phenobarbital
Phenobarbital has the longest history of use amongst the selection of anticonvulsants. It is typically administered twice a day although once a day dosing may be sufficient to achieve seizure control in some dogs. Phenobarbital is a controlled substance that is available as a tablet. It must be filled by your dog’s veterinary hospital or be accompanied by a written prescription if filled by an outside pharmacy.
Side effects of phenobarbital include sedation, increased thirst and urination, and ataxia (wobbly gait). These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 1-2 weeks of starting phenobarbital. There are some dogs for whom these side effects may not resolve unless phenobarbital is discontinued.
Dogs receiving high doses of phenobarbital are at increased risk of developing liver damage. Other side effects of phenobarbital are rare but serious. These include a low platelet count, a low white blood cell count, and anemia (low number of red blood cells). Development of hepatocutaneous syndrome is a rare reported side of phenobarbital.
Your dog’s phenobarbital therapeutic level should be checked two weeks after starting this medication. It should also be checked two weeks after any change in your dog’s phenobarbital dose. The phenobarbital level in your dog should be kept below 35 mcg/mL (micrograms per milliliter) to minimize the risk of liver damage.
Zonisamide
Zonisamide is a newer anticonvulsant that has grown in popularity as an initial drug for managing idiopathic epilepsy in dogs. This medication is administered twice a day. It is only available as a capsule.
Side effects of zonisamide include sedation, ataxia, and decreased appetite. These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 1-2 weeks of starting zonisamide.
Other potential side effects of zonisamide are rare but serious. These include a low platelet count, a low white blood cell count, and anemia. Liver and kidney damage may also occur.
Your dog’s zonisamide therapeutic level should be checked two weeks after starting this medication. It should also be checked two weeks after any change in your dog’s zonisamide dose.
Potassium Bromide
Potassium bromide was the first anticonvulsant prescribed for people and dates back to 1857. It is available as a flavored chewable tablet and as a flavored oral solution for dogs. This medication can be administered once a day.
It can take up to three months for potassium bromide to reach a therapeutic level in your dog when using a standard daily dose. Your veterinarian may prescribe an initial loading dose regimen for your dog to achieve a therapeutic level in a shorter period of time.
Side effects of potassium bromide include increased appetite, increased thirst and urination, weight gain, sedation, and vomiting. These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 60 days of starting potassium bromide. Long-term side effects may include increased risk of developing pancreatitis or megaesophagus. Rarely, dogs may experience increased aggression when taking potassium bromide.
Potassium bromide is not metabolized in a dog’s body and is excreted unchanged in the urine. This medication should be used cautiously in dogs with kidney disease. Taking potassium bromide may complicate management of diseases that alter electrolyte balance, such as gastroenteritis and hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease). Talk to your veterinarian before making changes to your dog’s diet while taking potassium bromide. Avoid giving your dog salty foods while taking this medication.
Your dog’s potassium bromide therapeutic level should be checked at three weeks and at three months after starting this medication. Dogs that have received a loading dose of potassium bromide should also have their therapeutic level checked the day after receiving the last loading dose. Comparison of therapeutic levels the day after the last loading dose has been administered and at the three-week mark may predict what your dog’s therapeutic level will be after three months of therapy.
Levetiracetam (Keppra)
Levetiracetam (more commonly known by its brand name, Keppra) is an anticonvulsant that is well-tolerated in dogs and has relatively few side effects. Keppra may protect the brain from damage that can be caused by seizure activity.
Keppra is available as a tablet. Tablets are available in two forms—standard release and extended release. Standard release tablets are administered three times a day. Extended release tablets are administered twice a day. Extended release tablets have a special coating that slows absorption of the drug in the gastrointestinal tract. These tablets cannot be crushed, split, or chewed.
Side effects of Keppra are mild and may include sedation, ataxia, and vomiting. These side effects—if they occur—typically resolve after lowering the dose of Keppra. Keppra has a wide margin of safety in dogs and monitoring of therapeutic levels is not necessary.
Using Multiple Anticonvulsants for Dogs
Most dogs will experience a decrease in the frequency and duration of seizures after starting one of these four primary anticonvulsants. Some dogs may need to take two or more primary anticonvulsants to achieve control of their seizures.
Phenobarbital alters the metabolism of zonisamide and Keppra. Dogs that are taking phenobarbital with zonisamide or Keppra will need to be prescribed a higher dose of these medications.
Adjunctive Anticonvulsants
Refractory epilepsy is when a dog’s seizures are not well-managed on two or more primary anticonvulsants. Adding an adjunctive anticonvulsant may help these dogs achieve better control of their seizures. Adjunctive anticonvulsants include gabapentin, pregabalin, felbamate, topiramate, and clonazepam.
Gabapentin and Pregabalin
Gabapentin and pregabalin have a similar mechanism of action on nerve synapses in the brain. These medications are also used for their analgesic and anxiolytic (anti-anxiety) effects in dogs. Side effects are few and may include sedation and ataxia. These medications are given two to three times daily. Monitoring of therapeutic levels is not necessary.
Gabapentin is available as a tablet, capsule, and an oral solution. Some gabapentin oral solutions contain xylitol; these should not be given to dogs. Pregabalin is a controlled substance that is available as a capsule and an oral solution. It must be filled by your dog’s veterinary hospital or be accompanied by a written prescription if filled by an outside pharmacy.
Felbamate
Felbamate has been shown to be an effective adjunctive anticonvulsant in some dogs that have refractory epilepsy. Side effects are rare and include liver damage, generalized tremors, and keratoconjunctivitis sicca (dry eye). Other rare side effects include a low platelet count, low white blood cell count, and anemia (low number of red blood cells).
Felbamate is available as a tablet and an oral solution. This medication is given three times a day. Taking felbamate with phenobarbital may increase the concentration of phenobarbital in your dog’s blood. Your dog should have a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel checked every six months while taking felbamate.
Topiramate
Topiramate may also help dogs with refractory epilepsy achieve better control of their seizures. Side effects include sedation, ataxia, and weight loss. Topiramate should be started at the low end of the dosing range and slowly increased to effect.
Topiramate is available as a tablet and an oral suspension. This medication is given three times a day. A chemistry panel should be completed every six months while taking topiramate.
Clonazepam
Clonazepam may be an effective adjunctive anticonvulsant for dogs that are already taking phenobarbital. Dogs may develop diarrhea when first starting this medication. Starting clonazepam at a low dose once a day and gradually increasing the dose may minimize the risk of developing diarrhea.
Clonazepam is available only as a tablet. This medication is given two to three times a day. Dogs may experience elevated liver enzymes after taking clonazepam for more than a few months. A chemistry panel should be completed every three to six months while taking clonazepam.
Pulse-Therapy for Cluster Seizures in Dogs
Dogs with idiopathic epilepsy may suddenly experience cluster seizures, even if their seizures are otherwise well-managed with one or more anticonvulsants. Cluster seizures are defined as having two or more seizures in a 24-hour period. Administering a pulse-therapy anticonvulsant may prevent further seizures in the cluster period.
Pulse-therapy anticonvulsants include clorazepate and Keppra. Either medication can be started after a dog begins experiencing cluster seizures. It is given three times a day until the dog has remained seizure-free for 24-48 hours. The typical length of treatment with a pulse-therapy anticonvulsant is three days.
Status Epilepticus and Rescue Anticonvulsants
Dogs that are experiencing a condition called status epilepticus may require administration of a rescue anticonvulsant. Status epilepticus is defined as:
Having a seizure that lasts longer than five minutes
One or more seizures in a five-minute period with no return to normal consciousness between seizures
Status epilepticus can quickly become a life-threatening condition. Dogs will experience the following symptoms in the first 30 minutes of status epilepticus:
Increased heart rate and blood pressure
Decreased oxygen delivery to vital organs
Increased body temperature, sometimes exceeding 108°F (normal temperature range for dogs is 99°F to 102.5°F)
The following symptoms may develop if status epilepticus continues for more than 30 minutes:
Neurogenic pulmonary edema. This is when fluid accumulates within lung tissue.
Heart muscle damage. This impairs the heart’s ability to contract and push blood to vital organs.
Acute kidney injury followed by acute renal failure.
Administration of a rescue anticonvulsant may interrupt status epilepticus but will likely not resolve it. Seek immediate veterinary care if your dog is experiencing status epilepticus.
Rescue anticonvulsants include diazepam and midazolam. Diazepam is administered rectally using a red rubber catheter. Midazolam is administered intranasally (in your dog’s nostril) using a special device called an atomizer. An atomizer is a small plastic device that converts liquid medication into a fine mist. The atomizer is attached to the end of a syringe containing a dose of midazolam and inserted into your dog’s nostril. Pushing the plunger on the end of the syringe delivers the midazolam dose to your dog.
Intranasal midazolam typically takes about one minute to stop your dog’s seizure. Rectal diazepam may take 3-5 minutes to stop seizure activity. Dogs that are experiencing status epilepticus may resume having seizures within 10 to 20 minutes. The most common side effects of diazepam and midazolam are sedation and ataxia.
Alternative Therapies for Managing Seizures in Dogs
Alternative therapies may help manage seizures in dogs already receiving one or more anticonvulsants. These therapies include cannabidiol (CBD), acupuncture, and a prescription neurologic diet.
Purina ProPlan Veterinary Diet NeuroCare (Purina NC diet) is a prescription diet specifically formulated to help reduce the frequency of seizures in dogs with idiopathic epilepsy. The component of the diet responsible for this phenomenon is medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. The Purina NC diet also includes several antioxidants to support overall brain health. Learn more at https://vetcenter.purina.es/neurocare/pdf/multicentrico.pdf.
CBD has recently been shown to reduce seizure frequency in epileptic dogs with refractory seizures. Dogs included in the research study published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine were on at least one anticonvulsant and having at least two seizures a month. Side effects of CBD include elevated liver enzymes, vomiting, and decreased appetite. Learn more at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37889215/.
Navigating the realm of CBD supplements for dogs can be overwhelming. CBD products are not federally regulated and may include variable concentrations of CBD content or have contaminants, including heavy metals and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). There is also little known about the appropriate therapeutic doses of CBD in dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about adding CBD to your dog’s anticonvulsant therapy before purchasing any CBD product.
Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) may be of benefit to some epileptic dogs suffering from refractory seizures. TCVM includes acupuncture and Chinese herbal supplements. Veterinary acupuncture is a specialized field. Ask your veterinarian about a referral to a veterinary acupuncturist who is skilled in helping dogs with idiopathic epilepsy.
Idiopathic epilepsy in dogs can be a challenging condition to manage. Thankfully, there are several therapeutic options available for epileptic dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about tailoring therapies to your dog’s specific needs.
From boredom to sounding the alarm, dogs typically bark for a reason. Determining what they’re responding to is the first step toward stopping barking sessions that go on too long. Credit: paula sierra | Getty Images
Barking can be incredibly endearing or amazingly annoying. Some dogs bark the entire way around an agility course. Other dogs bark every time someone rings the doorbell. There are many types of dog barks, and some are more problematic than others.
If you find yourself with a dog who nuisance barks, it may be time to dig into the reason why your dog might be barking, and try out some training solutions. Read on for tips on how to stop a dog from barking.
Step 1: Figure Out Why Your Dog is Barking
It’s often easier to prevent a dog from barking than to stop them from barking once they’ve learned the habit. If you have a young puppy, early and thorough socialization is key to prevent barking issues down the road.
However, you may find yourself with a young adult or adult dog who barks excessively. To stop nuisance or problem barking, you first need to get to the root cause of the behavior. There are many reasons why dogs bark, and each one has a different solution — there’s no single do-it-all solution to stop dogs from barking. Some of the most common reasons for nuisance barking are boredom, reactivity, demanding behaviors, and medical issues.
How To Stop Boredom Barking
Pups who are left alone often and for long periods of time may bark out of boredom. Dogs, especially high energy and high drive ones, need breed-appropriate physical and mental stimulation to be fulfilled. Folks with high-energy pooches may need to offer more mental and physical exercise to their dogs to ensure they’re sufficiently enriched.
If you need to leave your boredom barking-prone dog at home alone all day, consider the following strategies to bust the boredom and stop the barking:
Tire your dog out physically and mentally before leaving.
Leave your dog with safe, long-lasting enrichment like a frozen Kong or Toppl.
Hire a dog walker or dog sitter to take your dog out mid-day.
Ensure your dog gets proper mental and physical enrichment when you get home.
How To Stop Alert Barking or Reactive Barking
If your dog is barking at a specific trigger, like bikes, skateboards, other dogs, the doorbell, or people coming near her, it’s important to know that this kind of reaction is often due to fear or uncertainty. Managing the reaction (like closing the curtains if your dog barks at passerby) can keep your dog from practicing the behavior. To properly change the way your dog feels about these triggers though, consider counter-conditioning their response to the triggers with the help of a fear-free dog trainer.
Another thing that can help stop dogs from barking at triggers is to teach a “find it” cue and allow your dog to enjoy a food scatter. A food scatter is just what it sounds like: scattering treats on the ground for your dog to sniff out and find. It’s especially fun to do this in grass, since the grass basically acts as a big snuffle mat.
A treat scatter isn’t a reward for barking — it simply gives the dog something else to focus on to interrupt the behavior. Food scatters also act as decompression and help desensitize your dog to triggers.
To teach this easy training game, simply say “find it!”, then scatter a few pieces of food on the ground. Do this inside without distractions first, then you can practice outside with distractions. If your dog doesn’t eat the food off the ground, ask yourself why. Does she know this game well enough without distractions? Is your food too low value? If your dog is too fixated on a trigger to play the find it game, try using higher value food or practicing with a less intense trigger (or both). This game works best when the dog begins to anticipate the food being scattered on the ground when they hear the words “find it.”
Crate training is also a good tool to use for a dog who alert barks or who barks at specific triggers. Properly crate trained dogs should feel safe and relaxed in their crates and should be less likely to bark while in their crate. Crates are also a management tool, as they can keep dogs from looking at specific triggers (like outside the windows) while you’re away from the house.
How To Stop Demand Barking
Owners of demand barkers often ask “Do dogs ever get tired of barking?”
If your dog is a demand barker and has been reinforced for it, she may not get tired of barking. For example, your dog knows what time dinner is at. She barks until you come and feed her dinner. You come and give her a bowl of food because you’re tired of listening to her bark. You’ve just reinforced her for barking. She now knows that if she barks long enough at dinner time, you will eventually feed her.
Many trainers recommend ignoring alert barking, but this doesn’t teach your dog an alternative behavior to do instead. Dogs who are prone to demand barking can benefit greatly from shaping and impulse control exercises (many of which go hand-in-hand). Though these exercises may seem roundabout at first, they teach your dog to make good decisions and offer appropriate behaviors.
Shaping is a method of training where the handler waits for a dog to offer a desired behavior (or small steps in the direction of the desired behavior), often without giving any physical or verbal cues. The handler will then mark and reward those behaviors or incremental behaviors using food, toys, or something else the dog finds rewarding.
You can shape “paws up” on an object to teach your dog how to offer appropriate behaviors. Start by putting an object on the ground that’s big enough for your dog to put their front paws on it. The object can be a pillow, a pivot bowl, a cato board, or even a box. When you set the object down, your dog will likely go investigate it. Click (or mark) and reward any movement towards the object. Mark and reward for sniffing, walking towards the object, putting one paw on it, etc. Eventually, you will raise your criteria little by little until your dog is comfortable putting both paws on the object.
Teaching your dog to wait at the door can also help with impulse control. Take your dog up to a door on a leash and ask her to sit. Begin to open the door. If your dog breaks her sit, put her back in the sit and try again. Do this until your dog understands that pulling towards the door won’t earn her access to the door. When your dog is sitting politely and you can fully open the door, mark and then use your release cue.
Other Reasons Your Dog May be Barking
There are occasionally medical reasons for increased barking, like anxiety and age-related cognitive issues, like dog dementia. Talk to your vet if you think your dog may be barking due to a medical problem.
Australian Cattle Dogs are generally considered to be one of the healthiest dog breeds. Credit: EyeEm Mobile GmbH | Getty Images
Along with size and temperament, health is one of the most important considerations when you are thinking about bringing a dog into the family. Beyond affecting how much you will need to put aside for vet bills, chronic or inherited health conditions can very much impact the length and quality of your dog’s life. But is there any way to know whether one breed—or mix of breeds—will be healthier in the long run?
The truth is that while some populations have a higher chance of being healthy, it’s not an easy task to identify which breeds might have a propensity to inherit certain diseases or conditions.
Choosing Healthier Breeds
Thanks to modern advances in genetic research, today we have a much clearer understanding of the role genomics plays in the health and longevity of dog breeds. Some of what we’ve learned is quite troubling, however: study after study has shown that dog populations which exhibit high levels of inbreeding are more susceptible to critical health issues like cancers, autoimmune disease, and physical deformities.
Nevertheless, certain breeds tend to be healthier and have longer life expectancies than others:
Australian Cattle Dogs have consistently ranked among the healthiest dog breeds. This medium-sized dog (35-50 pounds, 17-20 inches tall) is in the herding dog group, and is generally very active with a life expectancy of 12-16 years.
Australian Shepherds, commonly known as “Aussies,” are another very active herding dog, somewhat larger than the cattle dog at 40-65 pounds and 18-23 inches in height with a 12–15-year life expectancy.
Border Collies are also part of the herding dog group with a life expectancy similar to the Australian Shepherd’s. Their size and weight also echoes that of the Aussie, and like that breed, they need to be kept active in order to discourage destructive behaviors.
Basenjis are among the healthiest dogs in the hound category, ranging from 16-17 inches tall, and 22-24 pounds with a life expectancy of 13-14 years. Their most distinctive feature is their “bark,” which is more like a yodel.
Beagles, known for their loud bray, are also in the hound group, with a life expectancy of 10-15 years. Beagles can range from up to 13 to 15 inches tall, and weigh between 20 and 30 pounds.
Chihuahuas are among the healthiest toy breeds. At 5-8 inches tall and up to 6 pounds, these dogs are known for their high energy. The Chihuahua has a long life expectancy, averaging between 14 and 16 years.
Havanese are another member of the toy group, standing 8-12 inches tall and weighing between 7 and 13 pounds. Despite their long coat, Havanese are tolerant of warm weather. The breed’s life expectancy is similar to the Chihuahua’s.
Siberian Huskies are members of the working dog group. They commonly stand 20-24 inches tall, weigh from 35-60 pounds, and are one of the few dog breeds with blue eyes. Bred as hard-working sled dogs, the Husky has an average life expectancy of 12-14 years.
Belgian Malinois are a larger breed in the herding group. While they can suffer hip or elbow dysplasia, Malinois typically live from 14-16 years. They stand from 22-26 inches tall, can weigh anywhere from 40 to 80 pounds, and are frequently used as police dogs.
German Shorthaired Pointers are one of the healthiest breeds in the sporting dog category, although they can suffer from hypothyroidism and hip dysplasia. Weighing from 45 to 70 pounds and standing between 21 and 25 inches tall, their typical life expectancy is between 10 and 12 years.
What About Mixed-Breeds and “Designer Dogs”?
In the past, it was generally accepted that purebred dogs were significantly more likely to suffer from genetic disorders than mixed-breeds. Recently, however, science has begun to change its tune, thanks to research comparing the health and longevity of purebreds to mixed-breed dogs—research which on the whole found that while some purebreds are more likely to suffer from some genetic disorders, the overall differences in health outcomes fall beneath the level of statical significance.
One surprising fact that emerged is that mixed breeds don’t necessarily have fewer inherited disorders. Among 24 genetic disorders studied, while 10 were found more frequently among purebred dogs, 13 showed up almost equally within purebreds and mixed-breeds.
In 2020, the first major lifespan study of dogs seen in U.S. private veterinary practices showed similar results, finding little difference in lifespan between purebred and mixed-breed dogs. This research did reveal, however, that dog breeds with more genetic diversity lived longer than breeds with less. Current studies bear this out, finding that purebred dogs have no greater frequency of owner-reported medical conditions during their lifetimes than mixed-breed dogs. These and other studies consistently show that while different breeds may be susceptible to breed-specific diseases, one breed is not intrinsically “healthier” than another.
As for so-called “designer dogs”—mixes such as the Labradoodle, Goldendoodle, and Cockapoo—the few rigorous studies that have been done tend to dispel the myth that these mixes exhibit greater “hybrid vigor” than their progenitor breeds. Almost 90 percent of the health comparisons showed no significant differences between the designer and purebred dogs.
Further, the same types of genetic disorders that affect purebreds can impact designer dogs as well: because of the limited number of these mixes, breeders may mate relatively closely related dogs to expand the “breed.” Whenever two relatives mate, the chances are significantly greater that the offspring will inherit two copies of a recessive gene that leads to genetic abnormalities.
In the final analysis, if you’re going to add a new pup to your life, the best thing you can do—whether you’re heading to a breeder or a shelter—is to know what you’re looking for, do your homework, and most importantly, spend some time with the prospective dog before you commit to bringing it home. You may well be spending the next 15 years with this wonderful creature, so make sure you’re truly made for one another.
Patience is key when it comes to trick training and teaching your dog to play dead is no different. Credit: FatCamera | Getty Images
Tricks are great crowd pleasers, and teaching your dog a trick is a fun way to bond. If “play dead” is on your tricks wish list, here’s what you need to know to achieve a star-worthy performance.
Getting Started
This trick is easiest to teach using a food lure. Use treats your dog is excited about. Small pieces of a soft treat work best.
Using a food lure requires your dog to follow a treat in your hand. Think of your treat as a magnet and your dog’s nose as the refrigerator. As you move the treat, keep the magnet on the fridge! A common mistake is to move the food too fast, breaking the connection between the magnet and the fridge and losing the dog’s focus in the process.
If training with a food lure is new for your or your dog, work on your treat-magnet/nose-fridge connection, and practice guiding your dog using only the lure. Remember: If you break the magnetic connection, you’re moving the food too fast.
Using a treat to turn your dog’s head toward one hip will prompt a weight shift to the opposite hip. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Step One: Rest on a Hip
Begin with your dog lying down. If her weight is balanced over both rear feet, we want to lure her onto her side so that her weight is on one hip.
With your treat magnet on her nose, slowly turn her head toward her hip. If turning her head toward her right hip, she should shift her weight onto her left hip. If turning her head toward her left hip, the weight shift will be onto her right hip. If your dog understands a marker (like “Yes!” or a clicker), mark the moment the weight shift happens and deliver the treat. If you don’t use a marker, just deliver the treat.
Take your time and be prepared to accept baby steps along the way toward getting the full weight transfer onto the hip. Some dogs are perfectly comfortable following the food and flopping on their hip, and some aren’t. If your dog seems confused or uncomfortable, reward the smallest variation of the desired behavior and ask for more as your dog becomes more comfortable.
Practice this step until you can lure you dog onto her hip in one fluid motion.
Step Two: Melt Onto Her Side
Caption: Once your dog has shifted her weight onto one hip, arc the treat over her body to ease her fully onto her side. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Keep the treat magnet on your dog’s nose and turn her head toward the non- weight-baring hip. Once her head is turned, slowly move your treat magnet in diagonal arc over her body. Following the food will start to ease her onto her side, with her head turned so that she’s looking back over his shoulder. From there, use your treat magnet to straighten her head and guide her body and head the rest of the way to the floor.
Some dogs find this more relaxing if it’s paired with a little gentle massage and calm reassurance. Don’t confuse gentle massage with forcing your dog into position. Lying flat is a vulnerable position for dogs. Don’t force it. Reward smaller versions along the way as necessary. For example, if your dog seems unsure, reward the first inch of a melt toward her side. When that looks easy, reward two inches, and so on.
If your dog struggles with this step and you find yourself feeling frustrated, take a break.
Practice this step until you can lure your dog fully onto her side in one fluid motion. Some dogs will learn this in one session. For others, it might take weeks. Meet your dog where she’s at and enjoy the journey!
Step Three: Maintaining the “Dead” Position
When your dog is comfortable melting onto her side, briefly move the treat away and back. Reward in the “dead” position to help your dog learn remaining in position makes you deliver the treat. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Load your hand with several treats. Lure your dog into the “dead” position. Let her nibble a treat or two from your hand, positioning your delivery so her head stays on the ground. Next, quickly slide your hand out and back along the floor and away from her face. Deliver another treat. With this step, the dog learns holding position when the food moves away makes the food return. How far, and how fast, you slide your hand will depend on your dog. For some dogs, this step will involve moving your hand only a couple of inches before very quickly returning to feed. As your dog catches on, move a little slower and farther away before returning to deliver a treat.
Practice this step until you can lure your dog fully onto her side in one fluid motion and she shows no sign of wanting to raise her head or get up as you move the food away from her face.
Step Four: Change Your Orientation and Practice in New Locations
Most people find it easiest to teach the first few steps while kneeling on the ground next to the dog. If that’s how you’ve been practicing, repeat the first three steps while you assume a different position. If you’ve been kneeling, and you can safely do so, try standing and bending over. Your posture change presents a new picture to your dog. If all is going well, make a point to practice in new locations.
Step Five: Fade the Food Lure
When you can easily lure your dog into the full “dead” position, play with transitioning from luring your dog with food (treat magnet on his nose) to guiding/luring your dog with a similar hand signal. Warm up with a repetition or two with food in your hand, then immediately perform a third repetition with the food hidden in the opposite hand, and reward from the opposite hand after your dog performs the behavior.
When deciding which chew bones are best for your dogs, it is important to consider how strongly they chew. Credit: Jae Thomas
Chewing is an instinctive dog behavior. From puppies chewing on everything in sight to older dogs settling down with a good stick, dogs love to chew. Chewing is a self-soothing activity, and dog-safe chews are good for stress release, teething, and can even help with teeth cleaning.
However, chewing inappropriate items poses health and safety issues for our four-legged friends. From gastrointestinal upset to obstruction risk, finding the best and safest chew bones to keep your dog occupied can seem like a daunting task.
Which Dog Chews are Safe?
We tested seven products to determine which chews were best for dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas
The safest chew bones for dogs are made of digestible materials. This means that the ingredients are easy for dogs to digest and won’t cause stomach upset or potential blockages. Rawhide is a type of chew that isn’t always easily digestible because of how it’s processed. Large pieces of rawhide that are swallowed could be a potential intestinal obstruction risk.
Relatedly, safe dog chews are made of materials that don’t easily splinter or break off into large chunks. If a chew splinters, sharp pieces can get lodged in your dog’s throat or intestinal tract and cause damage. If a chew breaks into large pieces, dogs can swallow them whole and it’s both a choking and obstruction hazard.
Choosing a safe dog chew comes down to knowing your dog. A “safe” dog chew for a toy-sized dog or a light chewer may not be safe for a power chewer or a large dog who tends to break chews up and swallow big pieces. Once a chew gets shorter than the length of your dog’s snout, it becomes a potential choking hazard.
No dog chew is 100% safe, and you should always monitor your dog when you give them a chew bone. There are also handy products like bully stick holders that can make some chews less of a choking risk as your dog chews them down.
Traits We Want in a Dog Chew
The best dog chew bones should be easily digestible, non-splintering and should last long enough to make the price worth it. Here’s what to look for when buying a dog chew bone:
Digestible ingredients: Look for simple, digestible ingredients—single ingredient chews are the best. Avoid rawhide chews unless you’re sourcing from a responsible, safe source.
Safe materials and size: Whether something is safe or not may depend on your dog’s chewing style. Choose chew bones that are large enough that they’re not an immediate choking hazard. Also select chews that get softer as the dog chews, don’t splinter, and are unlikely to break into big pieces. Be mindful of hardness as well, as chews that are incredibly hard (like antlers) can potentially chip or break dogs’ teeth.
Long-lasting chews: Some chews get expensive at $10+ per chew. A long-lasting chew will be much more worth the cost and will keep your furry best friend entertained for longer.
Though raw bones can have dental and other benefits, I decided not to include them in this list. Not only do many vets advocate against raw bones due to obstruction risk, but raw bones can also carry bacteria and make dogs and humans in a household sick if not handled properly.
How We Tested the Best (and Safest) Dog Chew Bones
I tested each of the chew bones on this list with my two dogs, Miso, a Border Collie-American Staffordshire Terrier mix and Dashi, a Rough Collie. Miso is a super chewer. She’s been known to finish bully sticks in five minutes flat and she’s the kind of dog who will break something into large pieces and swallow it whole. I’ve fished many chews and pieces of toys out of her throat to save her from choking. She’s an excellent tester of a chew bone’s safety for strong chewers.
Dashi, on the other hand, is a delicate chewer. She’s the kind of dog that would take multiple sessions over multiple days to finish a small bully stick. Beef cheek rolls last her weeks at a time, even if she chews on them for an hour a day. Dashi also has a sensitive stomach, so she’s a good tester for how easy-on-the-tummy chews are.
I tested all the chews on this list with both of my dogs to determine the safety, longevity, and cost-effectiveness of each chew. I timed how long each dog took to finish each chew and noted the chews that were broken into unsafe pieces or caused digestive upset. I also noted chews that my dogs didn’t like or didn’t find very high value.
Note that the recommendations on this list aren’t exhaustive. There are plenty of brands of beef cheek rolls, tendons, bully sticks, and more to choose from. Let this list serve as a guide for which type of chews to select, then you can try different brands to see which ones work best for you and your dog.
Read on for the best dog chew bones I tested for Whole Dog Journal:
These chews last a ridiculously long time even for heavy chewers, are an easily digestible rawhide alternative, and are extremely reasonably priced for how thick they are. These are one of the only chews that don't give my Collie tummy troubles.
Bully sticks are a classic chew for a reason. They’re a single ingredient chew, don’t break or splinter, and many dogs find them very high value. The only downside is the price in most cases.
Collagen sticks are a bit cheaper than bully sticks, and in my experience, are a little easier on the stomach. They’re also a bit easier for power chewers to break into pieces, but they do get softer as medium and light chewers chew them, similar to bully sticks.
Tendons are a great low-fat treat that clean dog teeth well. The ones from Pupford are extra thick, and last a decently long time, even for powerful chewers.
If you’re looking for a natural, edible enrichment toy, beef trachea is the way to go. You can stuff them with soaked kibble or other food, then freeze them for an extra challenge. Unstuffed, they’re not very durable, but they’re a great alternative to stuffable enrichment toys.
Coffee wood chews are all the rage lately, but I found this option to be quite messy. It sheds small pieces of wood as dogs chew, even with light chewers.
For extra-small dogs or light chewers, pig ears could be an okay option. My power-chewer tester dog was able to break one pig ear up into large pieces almost immediately. She got a piece lodged in her throat that I had to fish out by hand.
As a dog trainer I hear the same lament constantly: Your puppy is chewing everything but has a sensitive tummy and can’t have most chews. Fear not: The Amazing Dog Treats Beef Cheek Rolls (and beef cheek rolls in general) are often the solution to this classic problem.
Though they look like rawhide, beef cheek rolls are made from one piece of beef cheek and are not a byproduct of the leather industry like rawhide. This means they’re much more easily digestible in comparison to rawhide.
Beef cheek rolls (especially thick ones like the ones from Amazing Dog Treats) last the longest of any chew I’ve ever given my dogs. The 5–6-inch beef cheek rolls regularly last my super chewer dog up to a week with about 30 minutes to an hour of chewing each day. They last my soft-mouthed Rough Collie even longer. At around $4 per chew, they’re easily some of the most cost-effective chews on this list.
I like that these rolls don’t break into big chunks. As the dog chews, they get soft, and the dogs are able to nibble tiny pieces off of them. I’ve never had a choking incident with a beef cheek roll, and I’ve been giving them to my dogs regularly for over two years. Because they’re so sturdy, I also find that they don’t upset my Collie’s sensitive stomach—likely because she’s not consuming much during each session.
Beef cheek rolls are fantastic boredom busters and though they don’t smell. The only real downside of them is that they leave some sticky residue as the dog chews. It’s best to lay down a towel or have your dog chew these bones on a washable dog bed to make cleanup a bit easier.
Bully sticks are a classic single ingredient chew that work for even the heaviest of chewers. Bully sticks come in a variety of sizes (up to gigantic 24-inch-long ones), so you can opt for the size that best suits your dog. These chews are also incredibly high value in many cases and most dogs love them.
Bully sticks are made of beef pizzle, which while somewhat gross, is actually a great ingredient for a dog chew. They’re hard enough to offer some challenge but get soft as the dog chews. You’re unlikely to have any splintering or big pieces breaking off with a high-quality bully stick.
Most dogs can safely chew bully sticks, but super chewers will likely go through them pretty quickly. Miso can finish a 12-inch bully stick in about 10-15 minutes, while Dashi will take multiple 30-minute sessions to finish one. Bully sticks can be quite expensive, sitting at up to $10 per stick depending on the size and brand, so it may feel like a waste of money if your dog chews through a $10 stick in less than 10 minutes.
As for the downsides, some bully sticks have a terrible odor. The ones I tested didn’t have much odor before chewing and had some odor after my dogs started chewing. If the smell bothers you, you can opt for “odorless” versions, though these do sometimes still have a scent in my experience.
In terms of safety, choose a bully stick that’s oversized for your dog to ensure the longest amount of chew time. Buying a bully stick holder isn’t a bad idea either. As dogs chew down bully sticks, they may choke on the small piece left at the end of the chew, but bully stick holders help prevent that.
Collagen sticks are very similar to bully sticks, but they’re slightly cheaper and tend to be a bit easier on the GI system for pups with sensitive tummies. In comparison to the bully sticks I tested, the Pupford Collagen Sticks are about half the price at $2.50 per stick.
They are, however, a bit easier to break into chunks, so they aren’t the best option for strong chewers. If you have a light to medium chewer, the Pupford collagen sticks act very similarly to bully sticks in that they soften as the dog chews on them. It’s still a good idea to put these in a bully stick holder since they can become a choking hazard as your dog chews them down.
No dog toy is truly indestructible. If you have a strong chewer who will demolish stuffable enrichment toys like Kongs and Toppls, trachea chews are a good stuffable (and edible) alternative. I like to fill these with soaked kibble and freeze them for a fun enrichment challenge.
Note that these chews are not nearly as durable unstuffed/unfrozen and many power chewers will eat an entire trachea in a few minutes. Aside from the lack of durability on their own, the main downside of beef tracheas is that they tend to be high in fat, which can cause gastrointestinal upset in some dogs.
Chicken and duck feet are often lauded for their teeth cleaning abilities due to the scraping action of chewing on thin, crunchy bones. I found that the Pupford tendon chews offered a similar scraping action for my dogs, minus the crunch. Though these chews didn’t last the longest of the bunch, they were definitely the chewiest—and my dogs worked hard to get through them.’
Tendon chews are great because they’re low-fat and are essentially just muscle meat. That means less digestive upset for dogs than fattier options (like trachea).
If you have a very small dog or a very light chewer, Pupford has less durable (and cheaper) tendon chews and thick tendon chews. The Turbo Tendons are the thickest and priciest of the three tendon options from Pupford, but I found them to be long-lasting enough to recommend them. Miso the power chewer ate her Turbo Tendon in about 10 minutes, but she worked extremely hard and I could tell that due to the texture and size that it cleaned her teeth more than some of the other chews on this list. For a soft chewer like Dashi, one of these high-value chews could last multiple sessions over a few days.
Other Chews We Tested
I also tested the Pupford coffee wood chew and the Good Lovin’ pig ear chews. Coffee wood chews are a recent trend and though they’re non-splintering and seem like a good natural alternative to nylon chews, I wouldn’t recommend the one from Pupford. My Collie is a very soft chewer and even then there were a lot of crumbly pieces shed from this chew within the first few minutes. I also saw Dashi licking her mouth frequently while chewing on this, and it seemed like tiny pieces of wood were getting stuck in her mouth and annoying her. Miso didn’t care about this chew at all.
The Good Lovin’ pig ear chews and pig ears in general could be an okay option for a very small dog or an extremely light chewer, but these were the only chews on the list that caused a genuine choking hazard to my dogs. Miso was able to break the pig ear up almost immediately, and though it softens as the dog chews, she still managed to get a piece caught in her throat that I had to fish out.
The responsibilities and the investment of time and money in a puppy are a lot to inflict on someone without their permission. Credit: Nancy Kerns
I’ve given a few private lessons to a client who received an 8-week-old Golden Retriever puppy as a Christmas present. This man is retired, a recent graduate of cancer treatments, and lives alone. His young adult children apparently thought he needed a companion and bought him the puppy as a gift.
Fortunately, the puppy is absolutely lovely—a cupcake of a sweet puppy who learns quickly and already has the ability to settle down quickly after moments of play or training. Even so, she has typical baby canine needs to chew, explore, potty frequently, interact with others, and play—and that can be exhausting for anyone to deal with alone, and 24/7!
Now add in doctor’s appointments, shopping and home-maintenance tasks, social visits—you know, a real life—and fit all of that in around meeting the puppy’s needs. My client loves the puppy, and loves the thought behind what his children were trying to do for him, but is finding himself exhausted and overwhelmed by the puppy’s needs. He told me, “I did want to get a dog again at some point—but I imagined that I might adopt an adult or older dog. I did not think I’d be raising a puppy again at my age, and especially without a wife to help!”
Already, this “gift” puppy has cost my client a small fortune. He’s bought a crate, beds, bowls, toys, chews, treats, collars, a harness, leashes, a car seat cover, and a large covered pen for the puppy to stay in outdoors while he’s busy with yard chores and can’t actively supervise her. He’s taken her to the vet for vaccines and a fecal exam, hired me to help make sure he’s training and handling the puppy properly, and arranged for her to stay with her breeder for 10 days when he takes a long-scheduled vacation out of the country later this month. And he’s signed up for a puppy kindergarten class to start when he gets back from his trip. In all, he’s likely spent several thousand dollars on a puppy he didn’t ask for—but doesn’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings by sending her back to the breeder. Plus, she’s sweet, and he likes dogs and figured he’d want a dog again someday.
This might all work out. The puppy is absolutely a peach, and her owner is doing everything he can think of to manage her properly. But it’s not without risks; I can see that my client is exhausted—and he admits he’s lost his patience and temper with the puppy a few times, which could hurt his relationship with the sweet, sensitive young dog.
I thought that as a culture, we were more or less past the times when it seemed like a good idea to select and buy a dog as a gift for someone else. Shouldn’t they have the option of choosing their own dog, and bringing the dog into their home at a time of their own choosing? The responsibilities and the investment of time and money are a lot to inflict on someone!
Are you aware of a “gift puppy” situation that worked out extraordinarily well? What contributed to the success of the puppy’s placement?
Even small amounts of alcohol can be harmful—and in some cases deadly—to dogs. Credit: eclipse_images | Getty Images
Though you may have seen pictures, memes, and videos on social media about drunk dogs, we have a simple public service announcement on behalf of all canine-kind: Dogs should not booze it up.
Experts say dogs do not want to be intoxicated; buzzed dogs are not funny, and canine alcohol consumption can be dangerous, even deadly.
“Please don’t give pets alcohol,” says veterinarian Lori Teller, a clinical professor at Texas A&M University College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences. “Just don’t do it.”
What Happens if a Dog Drinks Alcohol?
So, what’s so bad if a dog has a drink? What could happen if a pup sips a nip?
Alcohol is a central nervous system depressant and consuming it can have catastrophic impacts on a dog’s essential organs (heart, liver, pancreas, kidneys, and brain).
“Dogs do not metabolize alcohol like [human] adults do,” Dr. Teller says. “Small children and dogs have not developed the enzymes to metabolize alcohol. You don’t give alcohol to small children, and we don’t give it to dogs.”
Ingesting liquor can lower a dog’s blood sugar, making them weak and leading to seizures. It also affects their ability to regulate body temperature, causing them to be susceptible to hypothermic shock.
“Alcohol can impact a dog’s respiration to the point where it becomes very slow or even stops,” Dr. Teller says. “They can go into a coma, and if they don’t get medical treatment, they could die.”
If you’re wondering, “Can dogs get drunk?”, the answer is yes. Dogs can get drunk very quickly on minimal amounts of alcohol and end up with way more than a hangover.
Ingesting alcohol can cause diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to other serious complications.
“One of the biggest concerns with intoxicated pets is that they will vomit and be unable to protect their airway; if this happens, they can inhale the vomit into their lungs and contract pneumonia, which can be very severe,” says veterinarian Tina Wismer, senior director of toxicology at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.
The organization’s staff fielded more than 500 calls last year from people worrying how much danger their pets were in after they drank alcohol.
How Much Alcohol is Dangerous for Dogs?
Is a slurp of a drink detrimental to a dog? What about a gulp? How much is dangerous? There’s no one easy answer. It all depends on the type of alcohol a dog drank, how much they consumed, and the dog’s weight.
“As dogs typically weigh less than people, it will take less volume to cause drunkenness,” Dr. Wismer says.
The percentage of alcohol in different drinks varies and even some mocktails and “nonalcoholic” beers may have low levels of alcohol.
Most traditional beer contains about 5% alcohol, wine has around 12%, vodka and gin have approximately 40%, and grain alcohol typically has upward of 90%. The higher the alcohol concentration, the more quickly it will take effect and the greater chance a pooch will have a potential problem.
That’s why it’s critical to recognize the symptoms of alcohol poisoning and seek medical help.
Symptoms of Alcohol Poisoning in Dogs
The signs of alcohol poisoning can be acute. The dog may become disoriented and uncoordinated; their respiratory rate may drop; they may have muscle tremors and even become nonresponsive.
“Typically, signs of depression and drunkenness in dogs appear within an hour of alcohol ingestion, including difficulty walking, sedation, and stomach upset,” Dr. Wismer says.
You may not even realize a dog who seems sick and is exhibiting these signs drank alcohol. Perhaps there’s a party or a backyard cookout, someone leaves their drink unattended, and the resident pooch decides, “It smells good to me!” and laps it up.
Then, the dog suddenly starts to appear ill. Whether you know a dog ingested alcohol or suspect it, get medical help immediately.
What Should I Do If My Dog Drank Alcohol?
Time is of the essence because of the detrimental impact alcohol has on a dog’s body.
Contact your veterinarian, your closest animal emergency hospital, or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435. If your dog is exhibiting symptoms of alcohol poisoning, get in the car and head to the ER.
“The sooner you seek care, the better,” Dr. Teller says. “It may involve intravenous fluids and supportive care. If your dog has tremors, seizures, vomiting, or diarrhea, you need to get those under control.”
There’s no antidote for alcohol poisoning in dogs (or people), so the more supportive care a dog can receive to treat their symptoms, the better their chances of improving.
Avoiding Alcohol Altogether
Not to be a buzzkill here, but you don’t want to be the one who calls an animal hospital or the poison control hotline and says, “My dog drank beer. Will he be okay?” because he might not be.
Don’t let a dog get close to alcohol or in a position to counter or table surf a drink.
“Always keep an eye on your beverages and never place drinks, bottles, or cans of alcohol at your pets’ level,” Dr. Wismer says.
If you’re having a party and you want your pets to be part of it, consider making an alcohol-free zone for them to be in. That helps minimize the temptation and danger—and it’s not only the alcohol that’s risky.
Some cocktail mixes and drinks contain artificial sweeteners like xylitol. “Even extremely small amounts of xylitol can cause significant damage to a dog’s body, resulting in liver failure,” Dr. Teller says.
So, the next time you see a drunk dog post on social media, don’t hit “like,” don’t share it, and most of all, don’t try it at home.
“Pets are important members of our family; they do not get the same enjoyment from alcohol that people might,” Dr. Teller says. “People should not be condoning it. It can be a reason for an investigation into animal abuse. It’s just not funny.”
A female dog can have puppies throughout her entire life.
Credit: Fuse | Getty Images
Most intact female dogs follow a reasonably regular schedule for their heat cycles. (I know many of you are groaning, but the average female dog goes into heat at regular intervals, whether every four months or nine months or whatever.) If your dog has had a litter, her cycle may reset on a different time frame after having the puppies.
Most dogs start their heat cycles somewhere from 6 months of age to 2 years old. Toy breeds tend to come in heat when younger, while giant breeds when older. The dog’s breeder can tell you how her line runs and that often carries over. Most of my females have started with a first heat at about 13 months old and then have a heat every nine months.
Heat Cycles Are Not Periods
A dog’s heat cycle is different from a human “period.” Both involve bleeding, but for a dog, it signals a start to a fertility period whereas in humans it is the opposite.
As female dogs age, their heat cycles may get prolonged. A dog who normally had a heat every six months may now go nine or 12 months, potentially even longer. Also, heats may become less noticeable or intense in senior females. There may be less discharge, and she may not be as attractive to male dogs as when she was younger. These senior heats may mimic what is called a silent heat in younger dogs—no discharge and no obvious vulvar swelling—but the male dogs still show interest.
This is not the same as going into menopause like a senior woman, however. In aging people, the hormonal changes basically switch off the reproductive organs. This does not happen in dogs, so even an elderly bitch may become pregnant.
Bleeding From “Private Parts”
If your dog is bleeding from her vulva, carefully assess the situation. If she is not spayed, when was her last heat? Is there any evidence of trauma that might cause bleeding? Is her vulva swollen? Male dogs are often attracted to urine with blood, even if it is not part of a heat cycle.
Older female dogs are more likely to suffer from conditions such as bladder cancer or pyometra (a dangerous uterine infection). If she is spayed or not likely to be in heat, a veterinary visit is in order. A bladder infection or bladder crystals and stones are also possible. Uterine cancer, vaginal growths, or bladder cancer are all possible causes of a bloody discharge.
Dog Bladder Infections
If your female dog is urinating more frequently and doing extra licking even though she is not due to come in heat, the odds of a bladder infection are high. Ideally, you want to do a “free catch” urine sample first thing in the morning and take it to your veterinarian. Note: Walk your dog on a short leash and carry a saucer or small ladle you can quietly slip under her as she goes to pee. The sample should go into a clean container and be kept refrigerated until you can get it to the veterinary clinic, preferably the same day.
Watch your dog urinate to ensure that you see the urine and she is not straining to urinate without producing pee, which could be a sign of bladder stones.
Bladder stones in your dog should not be ignored. If your dog strains to urinate but nothing comes out or if he urinates and you see fresh blood, your dog may be suffering from bladder stones. Note: No urine may be an emergency, as urinary blockages can be serious.
What Causes Bladder Stones in Dogs?
Bladder stones are formed when excess minerals build up in the bladder as crystals and pack together. This could be because your dog doesn’t handle minerals properly when they hit the urinary tract or the urinary tract is faced with an excess of minerals, which could be from his diet. In addition, certain urinary pH levels can encourage the formation of different bladder stones.
What Are the Types of Bladder Stones in Dogs?
The two most common types of bladder stones in dogs are struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate and hexahydrate) and calcium oxalate.
Struvite stone formation often follows bladder infections and the corresponding alkaline urinary pH. Female, small-breed dogs are often affected, even when young.
Calcium oxalate stones tend to develop in male small-breed dogs and are associated with acidic urinary pH values.
A third type, urate stones, are uncommon but are associated with Dalmatians due to a genetic mutation seen in many Dalmatians for the processing of uric acid. Males are much more commonly affected. Selected outbreeding to reduce that genetic mutation has been done to help many Dalmatians for the future. Careful dietary management is important for many Dalmatians to prevent stone formation.
Diagnosing Bladder Stones in Dogs
Bladder stones can be diagnosed by palpation on some dogs if they relax their abdominal muscles. A dog may have multiple smaller stones or one large one. An X-ray can confirm the presence of bladder stones. A urinalysis is important, too. There are often crystals present in the urine that, along with the urine pH, can guide your veterinarian as to which type of stone your dog has.
Urinary Stone Type Affects Treatment Choices
Treatment of bladder stones can vary. Different stone formations depend on different pH values. For example, if your dog has calcium oxalate crystals, using a urinary acidifier like cranberry supplements could worsen his condition. Typical treatments include:
Surgery: If your dog has one large stone or has a urinary blockage due to a stone, surgery is often the best option.
Urohydropropulsion: This technique can be used if your dog has multiple small stones. A catheter is passed that fills the bladder and then small stones are flushed out.
Laser lithotripsy: This laser technique can be used to break up smaller stones that can then be flushed out. Both procedures can be difficult in male dogs due to the anatomy of the urinary tract.
Dietary dissolution: Dissolving urinary stones with diet tends to be most effective for struvite stones but can also work for calcium oxalate stones. Different prescription diets are used for the process, depending on the stone type. This can take a long time to dissolve urinary stones and during the dissolution your dog may be prone to urinary infections or blockages as the stone pieces shrink. Owners MUST strictly follow the diet, which means no unauthorized treats!
Home Remedies for Bladder Stones in Dogs
Some natural therapies and herbal supplements can help to prevent stone formation or recurrence, but currently none are effective for to dissolve existing stones. There are also dog foods that help support a healthy urinary tract.
Bladder stones certainly aren’t fun for anyone, but they can be resolved with surgery or medical treatments. Recurrence can be minimized with diet and management. It would be unusual for a dog to need to be euthanized (or put down) simply for bladder stones
Some topical products for fleas and ticks also help repel mosquitoes. Check your product’s label to know for sure.
Credit: Svetlana Parnikova | Getty Images
Dogs are a handy meal service for mosquitoes. While a dog’s thick haircoat can be a deterrent, the shorter hair on muzzles, ears, and groin area are easy access feeding spots for mosquitoes.
Along with an itch, a bite from a mosquito can transfer serious health problems. The best known and most common health hazard for dogs from mosquito bites is heartworm. At least 25 species of mosquitoes can transmit heartworm to susceptible dogs.
Reduce Bug Bites on a Dog
Reducing exposure to mosquitoes starts with your dog’s environment. Get rid of any stagnant water sources on your property. Mosquitoes lay eggs in stagnant water. Empty kiddie pools daily, dump old tires or buckets holding rainwater, and so on. If you have a pond on your property, consider using natural mosquito control such as releasing dragonflies.
Although mosquitoes may bite at any time, like during a walk through a moist, cool wooded area, it’s wise to keep your dog in at dawn and dusk, which are prime mosquito feeding times.
Mosquito Repellent for Dogs
Some monthly topical flea/tick treatments, like Vectra 3D and K9 Advantix II, repel mosquitoes as well as fleas and ticks. (Note: See below for information on heartworm preventatives.)
In addition, there are numerous herbal and natural products that help to repel mosquitoes. Buzzguard is a natural product that helps deter mosquitoes. Other good products include Vet’s Best and Wondercide. You may also want to try neem oil.
As always, these products should be tested first on a small area of your dog’s skin to be sure he does not have an allergic reaction.
Remember, as you have probably experienced yourself, no mosquito repellent is 100% effective, so you should still use a heartworm preventive and still reduce mosquitoes in the environment.
How Dogs Get Heartworm
A mosquito picks up heartworm when it bites a heartworm-infected dog or other animal. As the mosquito sucks up the blood, it also takes in immature heartworms, called microfilaria, which are in the blood of the animal it bites.
In the mosquito, microfilaria develops into infective larvae. This can take up to 10 to 14 days. Then, when the mosquito feeds again, it deposits those infective larvae on the skin of its victim. The larvae migrate into the bite wound and infect the animal bitten.
Heartworm preventives are available with a prescription from your veterinarian. Your dog should have a screening test to be sure he is free of heartworms before you start him on a preventive. It is important to realize that heartworm cases have been found across North America. Mosquitoes can get into our homes and bite during the winter months. The American Heartworm Society recommends doing preventives all year round.
Other Mosquito-Spread Diseases in Dogs
While heartworm disease is more common and takes time to become a clinical problem, other mosquito-spread illnesses can show up quickly and be rapidly fatal. These include viruses that are more commonly associated with birds or horses.
West Nile virus, eastern equine encephalitis virus, and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis virus can cause serious illness in dogs, though many canine cases are mild. Neurologic signs are common. Bird and horse cases in your area may lead your veterinarian to suspect these viruses if your dog becomes ill. Treatment for these viral illnesses is supportive.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
