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Tribute to our Fallen Leader

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I first spotted Otto in a jail-mugshot-type photo on my shelter’s website in June 2008. My husband had just agreed that we were ready to have a dog again, three years after the loss of my much-adored Border Collie, Rupert. Can you believe that it took three years of only fostering for the shelter and dog-sitting for family and friends before I had recovered from the loss of Rupert to seriously consider owning a dog again? But within minutes of my husband’s agreement that it was time, I spotted Otto’s photo and emailed the shelter to ask if they would hold him for me – make him unavailable to others – until I could get there the next day.

Truthfully, there were two dogs I was considering: Otto, and a young hound-mix. But Otto, then an estimated 7 months old and a friendly, if somewhat reserved scruffy-faced guy of about 40 pounds, was the one I chose to bring home “for a trial” – and of course, he never went back to the shelter. My husband mock-threatened to send him back several times in the first few days that we had him, as Otto spent any unsupervised minute digging holes under any plants we watered in the yard. It took me those first few days to realize he was just hot and looking for a cool place to lay down, and I ran out to get all the materials needed to build him a nice big damp sandbox in the shadiest corner of our yard. Once he had a legal place to dig a big hole and lay in it, our ornamental horticulture was safe.

The digging wasn’t the only behavioral challenge we dealt with in the early years, though it was the most easily resolved. It became clear that Otto, who had been brought into the shelter after being found in someone’s chicken coop (with dead chickens), had probably gone stray or been dumped at an early age. He had good street survival skills – he could (and would) pick and ripe blackberries from wild vines, and made a beeline for any fast-food bags or other food-smelling trash on the street – but he didn’t know anything about living in a house, did not like being in a car, and was uncomfortable with humans in the first couple of years we spent together. The microwave beeps, vacuums, doorbells, and the Geico caveman on the TV all elicited barking and a hasty retreat from the house. (The caveman triggered the most dramatic reaction; he never seemed to pay attention to the TV, but when he saw that hairy guy, he leaped to his feet barking and growling.) Most of that faded away with time, but his phobia of slippery floors persisted through his lifetime.

And despite the shelter’s warning on his cage card that he “Kills chicken” (a typo that will make me laugh until the end of my days), he never killed or even chased any of my free-range chickens. By the time he was 3 or 4 years old, the slippery-floors quirk was about the only thing keeping him from perfect sainthood – but surely saints have quirks, too?

He was always a night owl – probably because he also hated the heat his whole life, and where we live is hot from June well through September. In all but the coldest months, he preferred to sleep outdoors, at least for a few hours. To be let out, he would come and pant loudly just outside my (open) bedroom door – he thought the floor in our hall was too slippery to attempt in all but the most dire emergencies. To be let back inside, he would give the front door one careful scratch of a front paw – so careful that the door is dirty but not scratched. In response to that sound, I can walk to the door to let him in or out in my sleep, and have done just that thousands of times in the past couple of years, as he grew more and more restless and uncomfortable with pain and a bit of nighttime dementia. But as unreasonable as his desire to go in and out several times a night could be at times, his request was always polite (and respected).

Otto accepted a never-ending parade of foster dogs and taught countless foster puppies how to introduce themselves to adult dogs respectfully. He never hurt a single puppy, though he would roar a terrible roar if they didn’t heed the early warning rumbles of disapproval at an over-eager approach. He would beat a hasty although dignified retreat when vastly outnumbered, but if a lone puppy who was calm and polite came toward him, she would be rewarded with a slowly waving tail and an approving sniff – but that’s it. He wasn’t here to play with puppies; they could follow him around the property if they behaved themselves, but that’s all the familiarity they could brook. Even Woody, the Pit Bull-mix who came to our home seven-plus years ago as a 3-week-old foster puppy (along with eight siblings and a dog-aggressive mother) and never got sent back to the shelter, who grew to be taller and heavier and stronger than Otto but never stopped seeking Otto’s attention and approval, was treated like a rude puppy: “If you calm down and behave yourself, you can be near me. If you act like a fool, you will be treated as such.”

Somehow, his boss-like but benevolent demeanor inspired instant deference in every dog and puppy he met. Recently, I was visited by a friend and her standard Poodle, who can be a bit of a bully with other dogs. I held the Poodle’s leash, and was ready to intervene quite robustly if the Poodle pulled any crap whatsoever with my wobbly old guy – but that’s not how Otto presented himself to newcomers. As rickety as he was, he drew himself up, head high, tail waving, chest rumbling – and damned if that bully Poodle – who was a bit of an ass with friendly, happy Woody – didn’t immediately defer and disengage, putting his head and tail down and keeping his eyes elsewhere. Even he knew not to mess with the king.

Otto was the first dog I owned who I trained only with positive-reinforcement-based methods – and I think that was critical to helping him gain confidence in those early years, and develop into the unfailingly polite and responsive dog he was for the rest of his life. He loved training – he would insert himself into any training session with any dog he overheard me training, and compete for the rewards like an overeager third-grader who knows all the answers in math class. Somehow, this was endearing rather than annoying, and it certainly helped model the desired behaviors for the slower pupils I was actually working with – social learning is a thing!

Speaking of social learning, he taught Woody, Boone, and many of my friends’ dogs his greatest skill: standing still to pose for the camera. His portraits are innumerable and (I think) stunning. His calendar and magazine appearances are countless.

His other impressive skill was a recall that was immediate and enthusiastic, and even though he couldn’t hear me calling him in these past few years, he could still hear handclaps, which I would use to get his attention, and when he would turn to look for the source of the clap, a hand signal would still bring him as fast as he was able.

That wasn’t very fast, lately. He was on four different medicines for his arthritis pain, and watching him walk was certainly painful for me. And he couldn’t trot anymore – but he could and still would swing into a lope for short distances when he was really fired up, like when he spotted one of his imaginary enemies, the trucks of UPS, FedEx, and the United States Postal Service. (Our carrier liked to egg him on, and would often honk or call him as she drove by.)

Given his more or less constant arthritis pain, he suffered with the heat last summer – heat that lingered and worsened as the summer wore on. In September, he grew so miserable that I actually made an appointment for euthanasia for the following week. He liked being cool, but hated being indoors; he wanted to be outside, but it was hot. Panting, he’d ask to go out and then back indoors again multiple times an hour, seemingly forgetting why outdoors was not a viable option each time. Providentially, the heat finally broke that weekend, and by the time the vet arrived, it was 20 degrees cooler and he acted like his old self: dignified, gracious, interested. We adjusted his pain medication protocol and he lasted nine more months.

This winter and spring were kind to him. We had tons of rain, which came with mild temperatures; he often slept through rainstorms in his sandbox under its patio umbrella. I don’t think we had a single freezing night. And then in May, we had one or two warmish weeks, which immediately increased his discomfort, but then it cooled down again in an atypical way for this area. It’s almost as if the world was conspiring to keep him here longer. I started fantasizing that he’d make it to his 16th birthday. But it was a race against time, because his legs steadily lost muscle, particularly in the rear end, and his joints grew more and more lax. Viewed from behind as he walked, he resembled a puppet being controlled by an inattentive puppeteer who kept lowering the puppet’s control apparatus – his legs buckling and twisting in ways that hurt to watch. And he started to fall, and worry about falling. After a fall, he would struggle to get back to his feet and visibly resent any help I gave him; it seemed an affront to his dignity. He started holding his ears back and down almost permanently, panting in a tense grimace as he made his habitual, determined rounds of our property.

The last straw was the failure of his appetite. About a week ago, he started turning down meals. I tempted him with a can of something, which would work for one meal, and he’d refuse it at the next meal. He turned down raw eggs (an old favorite), scrambled eggs, and leftovers from our meals. He would still take my most reliable secret weapon – Stella and Chewy’s Meal Mixers – if I fed them one at a time like a treat, but when I bought some in patty form and put them in his bowl as a meal, it was a no-go. Without him eating, with the temperatures rising, I made another appointment.

I have heard many people say – hell, I’ve said it myself to several of my friends – that it’s better to give our beloved canine friends the permanent sleep too soon than too late, but that was before I had to make that agonizing decision myself. I am not sure I will repeat that advice as easily again. I didn’t want such a good dog to suffer, and told him so again and again as I held him and stroked that smooth hair on the top of his head, as the veterinarian made the final injection. But I miss him so much that I am not sure I can judge whether it was the right thing to do right now. No matter what I decided was going to cost me dearly.  Paying for the lifetime of love and connection and fun and comfort he gave me should be costly; it was priceless.

Degenerative Myelopathy in Dogs

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German shepherd, Canis familiaris
Degenerative myelopathy, caused by a genetic mutation, is often seen in the beautiful, athletic German Shepherd Dog. Credit: Auscape | Getty Images

Degenerative myelopathy (DM) is a progressive neurologic disorder in dogs that strongly resembles amyotrophic neurodegenerative disease (ALS), or Lou Gehrig’s disease, in people. Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment or cure for this devastating disorder, but physical therapy (PT) is scientifically proven to make a difference in the quality of life and longevity for dogs with DM.

Symptoms

Symptoms of DM usually become apparent when the dog is 8 or 9 years old and start with weakness and incoordination in the hind legs (see sidebar). Dogs typically progress through the stages of DM over the next one or two years, with the final stages affecting all four limbs and the diaphragm, which makes it difficult to breathe. DM typically ends in euthanasia.

Physical Therapy

PT slows the clinical progression of DM and keeps dogs ambulatory much longer than dogs that don’t get PT.

Intense physical therapy for DM includes professional sessions (once or twice a week) combined with daily recommended exercises at home. At PT appointments, in addition to massage and core-strengthening exercises, your dog with receive laser treatments and underwater treadmill therapy.

Diagnosis

The disease is caused by a mutation in the SOD-1 gene, which is responsible for protecting neural tissue from damage by cell-damaging free radicals. Free radicals are created by oxidative stress in the body. There is no definitive test for DM that can be done while the dog is alive.

The German Shepherd Dog is the poster child for this disease, but it happens in other breeds as well, including mixed breed dogs. Breeds most commonly affected include:

  • Bernese Mountain Dog
  • Boxer
  • Chesapeake Bay Retriever
  • Corgi
  • German Shepherd Dog
  • Rhodesian Ridgeback

DNA testing for dogs is available, so peace of mind is possible if your puppy comes from negative parents. If you have your dog tested, bear in mind that having the mutation does not necessarily mean the dog is doomed to suffer from DM. It only means he is at risk for the disease.

The DNA test also can help solidify a diagnosis of DM in a clinically affected dog.  A clinical diagnosis of DM is one of exclusion, which means all other things that could cause similar symptoms must be ruled out before calling it DM. These include:

  • Bilateral cranial circulate ligament (CCL) rupture
  • Bilateral hip arthritis
  • Lumbosacral stenosis (LSS)
  • Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD)
  • Tumors or other disease of the spinal cord

Orthopedic x-rays, MRI, and spinal tap to assess cerebrospinal fluid are useful diagnostic tests, but if your dog fits the mold based on symptoms, breed, age, and a positive DNA test that might be enough to call it DM. A trial course of pain management/anti-inflammatory medication might be suggested to assess response to treatment. Orthopedic disease might respond favorably, DM would be unaffected.

Stages of DM in Dogs

Early stage

  • Hindlimb weakness
  • Hindlimb incoordination/mild swaying
  • Difficulty rising
  • Scuffing hind feet/worn toenails

Mid-stage

  • Extreme hindlimb weakness
  • Frequent slipping, sliding, falling on hindlimbs
  • Inability to stand for long
  • Knuckling of hind paws when walking and/or standing
  • Extreme incoordination/crossing of hind limbs/swaggering/swaying

Late stage

  • Complete paralysis of hind limbs (a cart can be used for continued mobility)
  • Urinary incontinence or inability to urinate (requires manual emptying of bladder)
  • Fecal incontinence

End stage

  • Forelimb paralysis (fully recumbent, can no longer stand, walk, or use a cart)
  • Paralysis of diaphragm (difficulty breathing)

What Causes Cherry Eye in Dogs?

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French bulldog with cherry eyes symptom sitting at field.
Dogs with cherry eye may not be able to fully close their eyelids, making them vulnerable to bacterial infection and corneal injury. Credit: PTG Pro | Getty Images

Cherry eye in dogs is caused by a breakdown of the tissue fibers in the dog’s eye. It is a prolapse (displacement outward) of the gland of the third eyelid, also known as the nictitating membrane, or nictitans. Breeds with brachycephalic skull conformation have almost seven times the risk of experiencing cherry eye, according to one study, compared to other dogs.

Early-Stage Cherry Eye

Cherry eye appears without warning as a smooth pink lump located near the inner corner of the eye. It usually occurs in dogs 1 to 2 years old. In the early stages, most dogs are not affected by it.

Home Treatment

If you want to manage cherry eye at home, be sure you know what that you have diagnosed it correctly and it’s not a red eye. To treat cherry eye, you must keep the eye clean, including the corneal surface, by using a safe eye wash solution (human solutions are fine) daily. Artificial tears ointment applied a few times daily will help protect the exposed cornel surface from injury (again, human products are fine).

If there is swelling of the gland, your veterinarian may prescribe steroid drops as needed. If secondary bacterial infection develops, your vet may prescribe an ophthalmic antibiotic ointment. Your dog will have to be monitored for the development of dry-eye syndrome, or keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS), which is done with periodic Schirmer Tear testing. KCS is extremely uncomfortable and can cause vision loss.

Surgical correction is recommended to prevent secondary issues. Untreated dogs with cherry eye cannot fully close the eyelids, so they are more prone to corneal injury and secondary bacterial infection.

Genetics

Cherry eye is believed to have a hereditary component in dogs. Commonly affected breeds include:

  • Beagle
  • Bloodhound
  • Boston Terriers
  • Chinese Shar Pei
  • English Bulldog
  • English Cocker
  • French Bulldog
  • Great Dane
  • Lhasa Apso
  • Newfoundland
  • Pekingese
  • Saint Bernard
  • Shih Tzu

Note: If you have an English Bulldog with cherry eye, don’t mess around. See a board-certified ophthalmologist as soon as possible. Cherry eyes in this brachycephalic breed are particularly challenging, and recurrence rates after initial surgery are high.

Surgery Cost

The cost of cherry eye surgery varies depending on where you live, if one or both eyes are affected, whether your regular veterinarian can do the surgery or you are referred to a specialist, and the size of your dog (the larger the dog, the higher the costs of anesthesia). An estimated range is $500 to $1,500.

Surgery involves anchoring or tacking the gland back down, or creating a pocket with overlapping edges that holds the gland back down in place. The longer the gland is out of place, the more difficult the surgery, making surgical complications like recurrence more likely.

Are Candles Bad for Dogs?

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Funny puppy chihuahua lying on couch and pillow under plaid indoors. Cute Little dog home warming under blanket in cold fall autumn winter weather. Pet animal in living room with candle and decor
With his incredible sense of smell, your dog likely prefers that you did not burn scented candles near him. Credit: Anna Ostanina | Getty Images

Are candles bad for dogs? The worst candles for dogs are scented candles that contain essential oils known to be harmful to dogs. The concern about any candles and dogs is that candles can emit chemicals that can harm your dog’s lungs. Dogs have smaller lungs than we do, so something deemed safe for us may not be safe for a dog. And, of course, smaller dogs will be affected more quickly than large dogs.

Signs that a candle is bothering your dog include:

  • Coughing
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Irritated, red, draining eyes
  • Lethargy
  • Nasal irritation and/or discharge
  • Throat irritation

If you notice these signs, put the candle out, open windows, and take your dog outside to recover. If the signs do not start to go away, get to the veterinarian.

Remember, too, that a dog’s sense of smell is at least 10,000 times more sensitive than ours, with some estimates at 100,000 times more sensitive. So, if you’re aware of the smell from a burning candle, your dog is much more likely to notice it and to be bothered by it. On a list of indoor pollutants from the Cleveland Clinic, scented candles ranks 17th.

Safe Candles for Dogs

Studies say paraffin, an inexpensive candle wax, emits toxic chemicals when burning, although there’s question as to how much is harmful. Paraffin is derived from petroleum, oil, or coal shale. “Burning candles can expose you to potentially hazardous chemicals, such as formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, and acrolein. Though these chemicals can be dangerous, studies conclude that exposure to these chemicals when burning candles is too low to present a direct health hazard,” according to the University of Florida Health. But, this study was about humans, not dogs.

A USDA report from South Carolina supports the use of soybean wax candles instead, which their data show burn cleaner.

Harmful Essential Oils for Dogs

Candles are often scented with essential oils, although candle packaging doesn’t always confirm what was used to make the candle. Some essential oils shouldn’t be used around dogs, including:

  • Cinnamon
  • Pennyroyal
  • Peppermint
  • Pine
  • Sweet birch
  • Tea tree
  • Wintergreen

And, of course, the smell and ingestion of marijuana can harm your dog as well, just in case you’re burning that.

A Light Scent

If your dog is in the room with a lit scented candle, keep an eye on him. The wrong scent or an overpowering scent could put him at risk for serious illness, including aspiration pneumonia. Learn how to use scents properly.

Signs of toxicity include:

  • Drooling
  • Vomiting
  • Uncoordinated movements
  • Depression
  • Diarrhea

Dog-Friendly Essential Oils

These essential oils are usually OK for use around dogs:

  • Chamomile
  • Ginger
  • Lavender Oil
  • Rosemary

What If My Dog Eats a Candle?

If your dog chews a bit of a candle, don’t panic. Dogs can ingest a little wax and pass it through the digestive tract, just as we can. However, candle wax can be bad if the dog eats too much of it or if it contains a toxic substance, such as a poisonous essential oil, things could worsen quickly. Overall, veterinarians agree that candles and dogs are just not a good match and skip the fragranced candles entirely.

Finally, of course, a lit candle around a dog is a recipe for disaster because of accidental fires.

What’s the Ideal Feeding Schedule for Dogs?

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Dog looking at hand holding bowl with dog food
There is no “one-size-fits-all” dog feeding frequency that guarantees health and longevity; it’s more important to make sure your dog receives an appropriate number of calories. Photo by Cris Cantón, Getty Images.

A study that made headlines in 2022 found an association between dogs who were fed just once a day and a lower likelihood of having a variety of health problems. However, one of the study’s authors, Matt Kaeberlein, Ph.D., Professor, Department of Laboratory Medicine and Pathology and the University of Washington School of Medicine, says this correlation should not spur owners to change their dogs’ feeding schedules.

The study was conducted by researchers at the Dog Aging Project, which since 2019 has collected data on thousands of companion dogs of different ages, sizes, and breeds in an effort to understand how genes, lifestyle, and environment influence aging. Studies of intermittent fasting and time-restricted feeding in laboratory rodents have shown beneficial health outcomes. The Dog Aging Project’s researchers wanted to investigate whether there were associations between feeding frequency and a number of broad categories of health conditions (such as cognitive dysfunction, gastrointestinal, dental, orthopedic, kidney/urinary, and liver/pancreas disorders) in dogs.

In each of these categories, dogs fed only once daily were less likely to be diagnosed with health problems than dogs who were fed twice or more often per day – but, Kaeberlein says, “It’s important to recognize that correlation does not equal causation, and there are many possible explanations for this observation, which is why more detailed studies are required. For example, dogs fed once a day may be less likely to be obese, and we know that obesity is associated with a variety of health risks in both dogs and humans. So my advice would not be to change the frequency at which people feed their dogs based on our study, but instead focus on making sure that your dog is getting a nutritious diet and maintaining a healthy weight.”

How Many Times a Day Should a Dog Eat?

Puppies are generally weaned around the age of 6 to 8 weeks, and should be given three or even four meals a day, in order to prevent hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). As pups mature, they become increasingly able to maintain stable blood sugar levels for longer periods of time, and by the age of six months, their meal frequency can be reduced to two a day. By the time they are fully grown, dogs are perfectly able to subsist on just one meal a day, but this is largely a matter of owner preference. Some owners impose a one-meal-a-day feeding regimen on their dogs while others feed two or three times a day. There is no single feeding schedule that guarantees health and longevity. However, the total amount that is fed to a dog each day will critically impact his health. Overfeeding any dog leads to obesity, and obesity practically guarantees health problems.

Discuss the amount of calories your dog or puppy should be eating with your veterinarian to determine how much food to feed your dog daily. Once you know how many calories he should eat in the form of a complete and balanced diet, you can divide that number of calories by any number of mealtimes you’d like to feed, whether that’s one, two, three, or even more. As long as the amount of calories he consumes in a day doesn’t increase out of proportion with his age and ideal weight, the number of mealtimes won’t matter.

Professor Kaeberlein, who is one of the founders of the Dog Aging Project as well as a co-author of the study on the frequency of meals, has one dog, an elderly German Shepherd named Dobby. Dr. Kaeberlein says he feeds Dobby three meals a day and his weight and overall health are good.

Why Does My Dog Only Eat When I’m There?

dog wont eat
If your dog doesn’t eat unless you’re home, it’s a clear indication that she’s stressed at being left behind. Photo by Christopher Bernard, Getty Images.

A surprising number of dogs won’t eat when their owners aren’t home–but rush to gobble their food as soon as their family returns. The most common reason your dog doesn’t eat when you’re gone is that she’s stressed – and a stressed dog is a cause for concern.

“But my dog doesn’t seem stressed,” you may protest. If your dog is stressed only when she’s left alone, and her stress level is low enough that she’s not acting out in other ways, it may be that you just aren’t there to see the main manifestation of her stress behavior – the fact that she won’t eat when you’re not there.

Dog training professionals often advise clients to leave dogs with a stuffed Kong or other slow-feeding dog toy to keep them entertained and to reduce their stress while their humans are gone. If your dog won’t eat when you’re away you can’t make use of this valuable enrichment tool. And it’s never a god thing when your dog is too stressed to eat!

What to Do About Your Dog Not Eating

First, do a test to see if she’ll eat if another human is present. This will tell you if it’s low-level separation stress (she has to be with you) or isolation stress (she’s okay with any human as long as she’s not alone). Then set up a cell phone, laptop camera, or security camera to take video of her while you’re away to she if she shows other signs of being worried, such as pacing, panting, or vocalizing.

If there aren’t other signs of stress, her worry-level is probably mild, and you may be able to help her with an over-the-counter supplement such as L-theanine (check with your vet first!).

If she’s more distressed, your challenge goes beyond anorexia; you have more than just mild stress. If that’s the case I suggest you seek the assistance of a qualified force-free professional; there are some who are certified to work with separation anxiety; they would have the initials “CSAT” (for certified separation anxiety trainer, certified by separation anxiety specialist Malena DeMartini) or “SAPro” (for a “Separation Anxiety Pro” trainer, certified by Julie Naismith). For more information, I suggest reading Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini.

Remember, if your dog is stressed, she needs help. Give it to her!

The Best Dog Shoes

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The author’s Bouvier, Atle, has sensitive paws. Walks and playing on the beach in the summer near their home leave his pads raw – particularly his front feet. Wearing shoes enables Atle to continue his favorite activities in his favorite place. In this photo, he’s wearing our second-placed boots, Canadian Pooch’s Hot Pavement Boots. Photo by Lisa Rodier

When you hear “dog shoes,” the first image that comes to mind is likely canine footwear for winter conditions – snow and ice – or rugged, rocky terrain. But dog shoes – or dog boots (as they are interchangeably called) – also protect dog paws from lots of other hazards:

  • Paw injury (pads/skin between pads)
  • Sensitive paws (pads/skin between pads)
  • Slipping (shoes provide traction for senior or disabled dogs)
  • Allergies (especially pollen)
  • Environmental concerns (lawn chemicals, salt, etc.)
  • Sharp or uneven surfaces (gravel, broken glass, etc.)
  • Hot pavement or sand in the summer

My 11-year-old Bouvier, Atle, has atopy and very sensitive paws. We spend a lot of time at the beach, and while he loves being there, sand tends to abrade his paw pads. He was a perfect candidate to test a variety of shoes meant for all-weather or warm-weather wear.

How We Choose the Best Dog Shoes

The dog’s paw is an exquisite mechanism. The abuse they gracefully counter is astounding. Paws provide traction, stability, and steering. Dogs feel the ground through their paws. While dogs mostly cool themselves by panting, the sweat glands in your dog’s paws act as another cooling mechanism. Any damage or discomfort to your dog’s footpads, interdigital spaces, nail folds, or nails can also lead to an altered gait, causing injury and imbalance throughout the body.

So when we endeavor to put shoes or boots on those paws, it’s critical that they are designed to fit well, to stay securely in place, and be made of materials that enhance their fit and comfort.

We tested six best-selling, all-weather dog shoes from companies with a reputation for manufacturing quality dog products and rated them according to these criteria:

  • Our dogs’ survival and safety rely on their innate sense of proprioception. We’re looking for shoes with flexible soles that aren’t too dense and don’t affect the dog’s gait. We also want softer uppers that “give” to avoid rubbing dewclaws or carpal pads or affecting the range of motion in the carpal (wrist) joint.
  • If we expect the dog to walk any distance, the boot needs to be comfortable, ideally sitting and fastening just below the wrist (at least on the front paws). It’s helpful if the manufacturer offers the boots in a lot of sizes, so our dog’s paws are neither being squished nor slipping around inside the boots. Other factors that contribute to a shoe’s comfort include its weight and “ankle” height, and how the boot is secured to the dog’s foot.
  • The boots should last more than a couple of outings. We’re looking for a boot that won’t fall apart and is built to last without being bulky, heavy, or overbuilt.
  • Can we toss them in the washing machine? How easy is it to put the shoes on? Is there a bright color option so that the boot can be easily spotted if it falls off? And, a minor but useful point: Is the boot’s size printed on the boot itself?

The Best Dog Shoes: Ruffwear Grip Trex

Ruffwear started designing dog boots in 1997, and their designs have evolved over time. The Grip Trex is a lightweight, low-profile boot with a mesh upper and a rubber Vibram sole. It uses a hook-and-loop cinch closure and has a gusseted design to provide a wider opening that makes it easy to put them on the dog.

As we tested these products over a couple of months, we kept going back to this shoe. Initially, we doubted whether it would stay on because of the low profile, but it has consistently stayed put and not slipped down the paw. We like how easy it is to get the shoes on and secure them without overtightening, the reflective trim, the lightweight sole that offers traction, and the breathable mesh upper, which somehow does a great job of keeping dirt out. These boots are machine washable, and the size is printed inside the closure strap. Best of all, Atle could easily walk, trot, and run while wearing these shoes.

The company’s customer service is highly responsive. Ruffwear reminds customers to check the size of the front and back paws before ordering and sells their boots in pairs, because front paws are typically wider than back paws.

The Best Dog Shoes for Hot Pavement: Canada Pooch’s Hot Pavement Boots

Canada Pooch was founded in 2011 and, despite what appears to be a focus on fashion, produces some boots that are worth a look.

The Hot Pavement Boots have a mesh polyester upper and a thin rubber sole. They sport a hook-and-loop closure, a toggle at the top of the boot for extra security, and a strap at the back to help pull up the boot (note that with a hairy dog like Atle, the toggle can be a little difficult to access and use). The shoes are soft, breathable, easy to put on, and very lightweight. Their softness helps with positioning to avoid affecting the dog’s wrist movement. The boots stayed on and in place without slippage and didn’t seem to affect Atle’s gait. The shoe size is on a tag on the side of the shoe.

Concerns: After some use and one washing (the company recommends turning the boot inside out for washing, which is challenging to do), we discovered small tears on the sole near the front seam. Happily, the company was quick to respond and send a replacement set. Also after washing, the soles seemed to lose their shape. Finally, there is a good amount of seaming inside the toe of the boot. It didn’t cause problems for Atle, but we’re not sure if that would present an issue for other dogs.

We like the shoe, especially for hot weather, but are unsure of longer-term durability.

The Best Dog Croc Shoes: Wagwear’s Wagwellies Mojave

While Wagwear has been in existence since 1998, they look to be a fairly recent entrant to the shoe market with their riff on Wellington (“Wellie”) boots. This shoe represents a shift from the typical dog shoe “look” and the material is reminiscent of the rubbery “jelly” shoes  for humans that were wildly popular in the 1980s.

The shoe is a 100% rubber slip-on with a hook-and-loop closure. The Mojave has perforated holes on top for ventilation (think today’s Crocs) and is meant for hot and dry weather.

I really didn’t expect to like these boots, but they grew on me for their relative light weight, simplicity, ease of use, and Atle’s ability to easily ambulate while wearing them.

The sizing was a little quirky – we originally purchased a large, which was too small. The company quickly made an exchange for an XL. Although their customer service was responsive, it was a challenge to find their contact information on their website; they appear to offer primarily a weekday online chat option.

What we didn’t love about the shoes are that the large holes allow in some debris; they need to be hand washed; and the stiffer top of the shoe could potentially irritate a dog’s dewclaw. Nonetheless, the shoes stayed on nicely, and while the upper is stiffer than fabric uppers, the sole is flexible and allows for proprioception.

The Best Dog Shoes for Winter: Muttluks’ Original All-Weather Boots

Muttluks has been making dog boots since 1994, offers a wide variety of styles, and has great customer service. The “All Weather” was one of the first entrants to the performance dog boot market and was one of our former top picks for winter dog boots.

The shoe is made of nylon with a lightweight lining inside. It has a ribbed cuff, a flexible suede-like sole (made of treated leather), and a Velcro hook-and-loop fastener.

We like the quality, the light weight, and the superb flexibility of the sole and the upper. Comfort and ease of use are where we have questions. The ribbed cuff rides a little high and can interfere with the carpal pad on the wrist joint, which can cause chafing and potentially impact movement of the joint. We found that nails – even if cut short – can easily snag on the cuff and very hairy dog legs can be challenging to stuff into the cuff.

It’s also easy to overtighten these shoes. We did so by accident when we had to tighten them to prevent them from slipping down the paw. We realized the error when Atle balked and seemed in distress.

When properly secured, these shoes do not impact the dog’s gait, do a good job keeping out debris, are machine washable, and the size is on a tag on the side of the boot. They would protect against hot pavement, but we’d opt not to use these in the heat; they are less breathable than the other boots we reviewed.

The Best Dog Shoes for Narrow Paws: Muttluks Mud Monster

The Mud Monster is comparable in design to Ruffwear’s Grip Trex shoes. The Mud Monster has a breathable mesh upper, a rubber sole, and a “double wrap” Velcro closure. The shoe features a gusseted design which initially helps to get the paw in, but the measurement across the forefoot of the shoe is narrow. We ordered a size 6 (medium), but the boot was too narrow, so we exchanged it for a size 7 (medium/large), but even the larger size seemed to run oddly narrow across the widest part of the paw.

The height of the shoe is pretty tall – almost 1 1/2″ taller than the Grip Trex – and may impact the wrist/carpal pad. The sole, while pliable, is not quite as pliable as that on the Ruffwear Grip Trex, and we have yet to master the double-wrap Velcro fastening closure. Surprisingly for Muttluks, the size is not visible on the boot.

The shoe design is very attractive, but there are just too many areas of uncertainty for us to fully embrace this product.

Not recommended: Kurgo’s Blaze

This shoe seems to try to cover every base, with all the features we liked in its competitors: It’s water-resistant, breathable, and made with a tightly woven nylon mesh and synthetic leather upper,  a super lugged sole, a gusset that makes putting it on easier, and a hook-and-loop closure with a toggle to help secure the boot at the top. The company was quick to respond to an inquiry and the size is stamped inside.

Unfortunately, the result is a heavy product with a sole that we found to be too stiff. Also, the shoe is tall and we found that it interferes with the carpal pad and wrist movement. Atle took on a very stilted gait when walking in this stiff-soled boot. And to cap it off, they must be hand washed. We are challenged to recommend this product, particularly for all-weather/hot-weather wear.

Try Some On Today!

A set of boots is a useful addition to anyone’s dog-care toolbox, particularly for hot weather concerns and highly allergic canines. They can also be invaluable if your dog slices or scrapes a paw pad and needs protection while healing. Your dog’s conformation will influence which shoe will work best for her, but we’re confident that our top picks are the best candidates to start with.

Pro Tips for Using Dog Shoes
  • Measure your dog’s paws twice, front and back, before ordering. All of the dog-shoe makers provide measuring information on their websites, but reach out to customer service if you have any questions.
  • Front paws are often slightly larger than hind paws. If this is the case with your dog, look for a company that sells its shoes in pairs rather than a set of four, so you can get different sizes for front and back.
  • Allow your dog time to acclimate to his shoes. Introduce shoes to your dog long before he’ll need to wear them for a specific event or situation. Distract him with play and/or treats – whatever works!
  • Do not overtighten your dog’s shoes!
  • It’s important to spot and solve shoe-fit problems as quickly as possible. If using boots on a long walk or hike, frequently give them a visual check to make sure they are staying in place. Remove them and check your dog’s paws whenever you stop for a rest.
  • A shoe may fall off … Use an indelible marker to write your phone number on the inside of each boot or on a laundry-proof stick-on label. Maybe you will get that boot back!
  • Do not leave shoes on an unsupervised dog.
  • In hot weather, when your dog’s paws may be particularly sweaty paws, use some talc-free anti-chafing powder in each boot before putting them on your dog. (Try Coat Defense Daily Preventative Powder for Dogs; see coatdefense.com.)
  • Tractioned cotton socks or a lightweight rubber disposable boot (i.e., Pawz, from pawzdogboots.com) may be a better option for improving a dog’s traction on slippery floors indoors.

Best All-Weather Shoes for Dogs, From First to Worst

WDJ RatingProduct Maker Name/ Maker’s WebsitePrice Sizes/ColorsSize Tested Weight of 1 BootNotes
4 pawsGrip Trex Dog Boots Ruffwear ruffwear.com/products/grip-trex-dog-boot-pairs$40/pair8 sizes (1.5" - 3.25")

3 colors (black, green, red)
2.75"/75 mm

48 grams
Our top pick. Easy to put on, secure fit without overtightening. Good range of sizes. Machine washable. Made in Vietnam.
3 ½ pawsHot Pavement Boots Canada Pooch canadapooch.com/products/hot-pavement-dog-boots$51 -$61/set of 46 sizes (1-6)

2 colors (blue/green, pink)
Size 5

40 grams
The lightest shoe we reviewed. Soft, breathable, secure. Easy to put on and position for maximum comfort. Machine washable. Made in China.
3 pawsWag Wellies Mojave Wagwear wagwear.com/products/wagwellies-mojave$49 /set of 47 sizes (XXS-XXL)

5 colors (blue, orange, black, pink, green)
XL

55 grams
Lightweight, easy to put on. Very breathable (sort of like Crocs for humans) but poor at keeping dirt, sand, or debris out of the boot – best for use on pavement. Good range of sizes. Made in China.
2 ½ pawsOriginal All-Weather Muttluks Muttluks muttluks.com/products/original-all-weather-muttluks$66 - $88 set of 48 sizes (“Itty Bitty” - XXL)

2 colors (black or yellow)
M

42 grams
Good range of sizes. High cuff keeps debris out but makes putting the boots on a little more difficult, especially for long-haired dogs. Better for cold-weather wear; might be too hot for warm weather. Machine washable. Made in Canada.
2 pawsMud monsters Muttluks muttluks.com/collections/dog-boots/products/mud-monsters$50-$65/pair10 sizes (XXS-XL)

4 colors (blue, gray, orange, purple)
7 (M-L)

67 grams
Similar in overall design to Ruffwear’s Grip Trex, but the execution isn’t as good. The boot is taller and stiffer than that competitor. These boots are also some of the narrowest we tried. Great range of sizes available. Machine washable. Made in China.
0 pawsBlaze Dog Boots Kurgo kurgo.com/outdoor-gear/blaze-dog-boots$34.95/pair6 sizes (XXS-XL)

1 color (black/gray)
Medium

71 grams
Not recommended: Heavy, bulky, tall, hot – and needs hand-washing! “Imported.”

Is Dog Agility Right for You and Your Dog?

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diane pach
Diane Eggleston ran her own agility training school for 15 years and now teaches at a local obedience club. She’s shown here (center) after her Vegas earned his PACH, which is an AKC agility championship. Photo courtesy of Diane Eggleston

Dog agility is as fun as it looks! It’s easy to get started in dog agility. The only agility equipment you need to start is a low jump or two, which you can make yourself by setting a PVC bar on top of two short buckets or cinder blocks. Add in lots of praise and high-value treats, and you’re on your way. For more on the sport of agility, see sidebar, below.

If you and your dog find this intro fun, you’ll soon want to invest in some real agility equipment. “The most basic equipment I would recommend would be at least four jumps and 12 weave poles,” says Diane Eggleston, an experienced agility instructor and highly successful competitor (see video of Eggleston running her Papillon dog Vegas). Eggleston ran her Awesome Abilities Agility training school for 15 years. She now teaches a few classes a week at the Syracuse (N.Y.) Obedience Training Club.

A set of 12 weave poles costs between $375 and $600. A jump with wings is around $200. Without wings, a jump is $125. Be careful not to purchase inferior flimsy equipment. Look for competition equipment, which is made to the requirements of the different dog agility organizations, like the American Kennel Club, Canine Performance Events, the U.S. Dog Agility Association, and more.

As your interest grows, so will your desire to add equipment, such as a tunnel. For most competitors, having access to the more difficult (and more expensive) obstacles at a training facility is enough.

Fitness Matters

Agility is physically hard on dogs, which means the dog needs proper training and conditioning. “A dog should have good structure and be physically able to do all the running and jumping involved with agility. This is not a sport for overweight dogs,” says Eggleston. “If the dog passes the physical criteria, the other important thing to consider is whether the dog having fun. Some dogs do not enjoy the sport. I hate to see dogs running slow and pokey because they are only doing it because they love their owner,” says Eggleston.

Starting your training in an agility foundation classes with an experienced trainer is money well spent. Getting the right start is critical. The agility trainer can evaluate your dog and help you determine the best approach to get him fit and keep him happy. He or she will also train you, so you can cue the dog properly. If you don’t ask the dog to do something correctly, he won’t know what you want. “When training your dog at home or anywhere else never blame the dog for the handler’s errors,” says Eggleston.

Dog Agility Benefits

Agility is an addictive team sport. For most of us, it’s the challenge of training your dog, seeing his excitement, and spending time with people who share a common interest. Agility builds a dog’s mind, body, and soul, and enhances your bond with your dog. But you do need to train with the right attitude. Remember that agility is not about winning, although that is certainly fun. Agility is about spending time with your best friend doing something you both enjoy.

What Is Dog Agility?

Dog agility is a timed event with obstacles the dog races through or over. Speed and accuracy are important to your success. The run is always off leash, and handlers communicate with the dog using verbal cues and body language, motion, and positioning.

No rules dictate what cues you use for your individual dog, and many handlers have their own set of words for various obstacles, turns, and speed. But there are commonly used terms, like break, left, right, check, dig, wait, and more. You’ll train verbal and body cues that tell your dog to turn right or left, make a tight turn (called a wrap), take an obstacle from the opposite/back side, slow down, move ahead quickly (go!), and more.

Most dogs quickly learn the names of the obstacles: jump, tire, tunnel, table, A-frame, and dog walk (walk it!), and you’ll hear many handlers repeat the term three times as the dog approaches the obstacle. As the dog becomes more confident in your communication, his speed naturally increases. That is one of the many reasons why agility handlers say, “The dog is never wrong.”

A dog should have foundation handling skills before starting agility, knowing how to walk quietly on leash, stay when cued, and has a strong recall (return to you when called). He doesn’t need to be an obedience dog, but he does need the basics.

Classes are divided by the dog’s height and experience, so you’re competing against similarly sized dogs and dog-handler experience. You move up levels of competition as your dog qualifies (does the course well enough to achieve a set qualifying score at a required minimum speed). There are regional and national competitions that you earn the right to compete in by achieving a set number of qualifying scores. All organizations have championship titles as well that are highly sought after and require a consistently good dog-handler team.

Any dog can do agility, but it does require a level of athleticism and attitude to excel. Among the best breeds for agility are Border Collies, Papillons, Shelties, Australian Shepherds, Malinois dogs, Golden Retrievers, many terriers, and a huge number of mixes. A great agility dog has “drive,” which is a term for a dog’s motivation. These dogs seek out and jet away to the next obstacle.

Puppy Warts Are Rarely a Problem

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Old dog with papillomatosis
A wart caused by the papilloma virus has a classic appearance, being light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface. Credit: Todorean Gabriel | Getty Images

The dawn of doggy day care brought an increase in cases of puppy warts. Puppy warts are caused by canine papilloma virus and are extremely contagious. At doggy day care, dogs and puppies are playfully mouthing each other and sharing toys and water bowls, so the virus can spread like wildfire.

The warts typically develop in the mouth, and there can be lots of them. They can be on the tongue, the lips, the roof of the mouth, and the inside the cheeks. They are ugly for sure, but problems only occur if they become infected and cause pain.

Diagnosing Puppy Warts

Puppy warts occur most frequently in dogs 6 months to 2 years old due to young dogs’ less mature immune systems. These warts have a classic appearance, light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface, so they are easily recognizable. The warts will regress and disappear as the dog mounts an immune response against the virus. It can take several weeks to several months for the warts to go away.

If you have a young dog who goes to doggy day care and develops these classic lesions, your veterinarian will likely diagnose puppy warts based simply on history and physical examination. If you have an older dog who does not attend doggy day care, your veterinarian will likely recommend a biopsy to rule out worse things.

Puppy Warts Treatment

Luckily, the puppy papilloma virus is benign (not harmful), and usually no treatment is required other than tincture of time, unless the warts become infected, painful, or interfere with eating. Antibiotics are indicated for infection. The warts can be surgically removed or frozen off if necessary.

The good news is that a dog is unlikely to ever suffer from puppy warts again, thanks to the immune response. The bad news is that your puppy must stay home from doggy day care while suffering from puppy warts, and for two months after they are gone, due to the long incubation period of this virus.

Car Chasing

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dog chasing cars
Phoebe listens for oncoming cars. A couple weeks ago, I had to keep her on leash to prevent her from chasing any car driving by our house. Now, thanks to a ton of practicing (and treats) I can call her back to me if I notice her watching/waiting/listening for cars in time.

Phoebe, my little foster mama, is a car-chaser, and, unfortunately, we have a perfect property for her to practice her passion. I live on a roughly square two-acre parcel situated at the corner of two rural roads, so fully half of our property line is fenced and parallel to a road. This makes it fun for Phoebe to chase passing cars on either road – whose drivers are probably oblivious to her as she speeds, barking, down the fence line – but especially fulfilling when one slows and turns the corner, traversing both roadside fence lines before disappearing down the road out of sight.

When dogs engage in behaviors we don’t like, the solution is always (at least) two-pronged: You need to both teach the dog what you would prefer that they do in the given situation (mostly by reinforcing a behavior that’s incompatible with the behavior you don’t want), and you need to prevent them from being reinforced for doing the behavior you don’t want.

In this case, that means keeping Phoebe from being able to chase the cars, by keeping her on a leash any time she’s not locked up. Car-chasing, like chasing squirrels, cats, shadows, bicycles, joggers, or anything else that moves, is highly reinforcing for some dogs. Chasing is part of the “predatory sequence” that is encoded in every dog’s DNA. The full sequence is defined by ethologists as ORIENT > EYE > STALK > CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > DISSECT > CONSUME. Some dogs barely display even a single part of this sequence, but  the selective breeding we’ve done over millenia has resulted in some breeds that display specific parts of this sequence quite strongly. The herding breeds are masters of the orient, eye, stalk, and chase parts; dogs who go on to do more than nip at the animals they are supposed to be herding tend to get culled from the population. Protection dog breeds have been bred to excel at the grab/bite phase of the sequence, and, again, get culled if they go farther than that. But certain hunting dogs, such as those who are used to hunt for wild pigs and bears, are prized for their abilities to kill their prey.

Whatever genetic inheritance Phoebe possesses, the chasing bit clearly fills her with adrenaline and endorphins. Fortunately for me – or more specifically, my free-range chickens – she doesn’t seem to have any tendencies toward the grab/bite or any further part of the sequence.

I’ve mostly been preventing Phoebe’s opportunity to chase cars by keeping her contained in a 10-foot by 10-foot pen with her five puppies. But they are now 6-plus weeks old and she is rapidly tiring of their demands to nurse. They don’t need to nurse anymore. They are eating canned and soaked dry food several times a day, and even munching on dry kibble between meals. I equipped the pen with second doghouse on a raised platform so she could escape the pups when she needed a break; at this point, she spends virtually all of her time in the pen up there, out of their reach.

But the arrangement won’t last long. The gang of puppies just mastered the stairs to the deck on the back of my house. Until a few days ago, when I let them out of their pen to play on the lawn, I could run up those stairs so they would stop following me and biting my ankles. Now, they gleefully bound up the stairs after me; it won’t be long before they can get up on Phoebe’s platform. When that happens, she’ll have to go back to the shelter to start the next part of her journey: getting treatment for her heartworm infection, getting spayed, and getting adopted.

Teaching an incompatible behavior

The second important part of getting rid of the car-chasing behavior is teaching the dog (through reinforcement) an incompatible behavior.  I’ve been working hard on teaching Phoebe one very simple behavior that is incompatible with car-chasing: coming when called. I won’t review all the steps for that here, but will instead just point you toward past in-depth articles that teach this important behavior.

“Daily Practice Makes for Perfect Recalls”

“Rocket Recall”

She’s doing much better already; it helps that she’s extremely motivated by yummy treats (having been starved before she came to the shelter and also from the demands of nursing). I can already call her back to me when I see her hear an oncoming car and she rises to her feet before launching her charge. If I fail to notice her noticing the oncoming car, however, and she starts her run before I call, she’ll still come back to me about half of the time, which is 50% better than she was three weeks ago. I’m hoping by the time she has to go back to the shelter, we’ll have a solid recall off of cars at least 80% or more of the time.

Metronidazole for Dogs Works Like Magic

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Female veterinarian giving medication to dog owner in veterinary surgery
Magic, mysterious, malevolent metronidazole: This drug works like magic for most cases of diarrhea in dogs, but it’s mysterious because how it works is not well understood. And, sadly, it has a malevolent side in the form of a rare but serious side effect called metronidazole toxicity. The point is that, as wonderful as metronidazole is, it’s still a prescription drug for good reason. Credit: Wetemd61 | Getty Images

For simple diarrhea in dogs, metronidazole is usually the first thing your veterinarian recommends. Although metronidazole is an antibiotic by class, it works as an anti-inflammatory on the intestinal mucosa. As such, regardless of what is causing the inflammation that is resulting in diarrhea, metronidazole cools the flame. So, whether the diarrhea is due to stress, a diet change, dietary indiscretion (aka eating “dumb stuff”), or even a parasite or virus, metronidazole often helps, and research shows it can help quickly.

Metronidazole Dosage for Dogs With Diarrhea

Typical metronidazole dosage for dogs for treatment of non-specific, simple diarrhea in dogs is 5 to 10 mg/kg (milligrams of metronidazole per kilogram of the dog’s weight) twice a day for five days.  Metronidazole is a prescription drug dispensed as a 250 mg or 500 mg tablet. You need to know which you have.

For some dogs, a single dose is sufficient, especially when stress is the cause.

For chronic diarrhea, if metronidazole works and all other known causes of diarrhea have been ruled out, the condition is given the name “antibiotic-responsive diarrhea.” How it works is a mystery. That it works is a fact.

What Metronidazole is Used for in Dogs

In dogs, metronidazole is also used to treat:

  • Biopsy-confirmed inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), although steroids also may be necessary
  • Giardia, a protozoan intestinal parasite, although fenbendazole is the treatment of choice
  • Anaerobic bacteria, which are mostly found in the gastrointestinal tract and underneath the gums (periodontal disease)
  • Clostridial intestinal infections
  • Certain liver and gall bladder infections
  • Liver disease resulting in neurologic impairment (hepatic encephalopathy)

When metronidazole is used as an antibiotic, the dose range is typically 10 to 15 mg/kg twice a day.

Side Effects of Metronidazole for Dogs

Metronidazole toxicity is rare, but it can occur, usually with high doses given for an extended period. It shows up as sudden onset of severe, neurologic derangements, including:

  • Seizures
  • Tremors
  • Stiffness
  • Head tilt
  • Incoordination (ataxia)
  • Dilated pupils
  • Confusion
  • Nystagmus (rapid eyeball jerking back and forth)

With discontinuation of the drug, most dogs fully recover within a few days. Treatment for metronidazole toxicity is supportive care.

Additional, less scary but possible side effects of metronidazole include:

  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weakness
  • Bloody urine
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Neurologic derangements

One final note: With the increased importance of antibiotic stewardship to combat increasingly alarming rates of antibiotic resistance, your veterinarian may be reluctant to immediately prescribe metronidazole upon request for diarrhea. Trying a probiotic and bland diet may be suggested first for good reason.

Yeast Infection on Your Dog’s Paws

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A cute English Springer Spaniel Dog, lying down in a field licking his paw surrounded by daisy flowers.
Dogs with allergies, skin folds, and excessive hair between the toes are prone to yeast infections in their paws. Springer Spaniels have a higher incidence of Malassezia infections than most breeds; they can also suffer these infections in their ears. Photo by Sandra Standbridge, Getty Images

Spore-producing yeasts or fungi normally live on canine skin without causing problems, but they can sometimes spread out of control. When a yeast infection on dog paws happens, a dog’s paws will become highly itchy, prompting the dog to lick them. In a very short time they become red and irritated, may develop a cheesy, musty, or pungent odor, and a brown discharge can develop in the nail beds.

The culprit is usually Malassezia pachydermatis, a yeast species that multiplies in warm, moist environments. This overgrowth is most frequently associated with dog allergies, which also cause itching, prompting the dog to lick his feet; the moisture and damage to the skin sparks the yeast overgrowth. A cut, abrasion, or other injury to the paw can also trigger licking and a Malassezia infection.

Diagnosis of Yeast Infection on Dog Paws

The paws’ appearance and odor makes a yeast infection diagnosis easy, but a veterinarian can confirm this by examining some of the dog’s skin cells under a microscope.

Dogs with skin folds, excessive hair between toes, and underlying health conditions or autoimmune disorders may be susceptible. The breeds most associated with paw pad yeast infections are Bulldogs, Cocker Spaniels, Basset Hounds, Retrievers, Shih Tzus, Poodles, English Setters, West Highland White Terriers, English Springer Spaniels, and Dachshunds.

In general, yeast infections are secondary rather than primary – they develop after another disorder has weakened the dog’s overall health, allowing yeast cells to multiply. If your dog suffers from recurrent infections, your vet will look for signs of an underlying medical condition that is contributing to your dog’s problem. Varied conditions such as hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, food allergies, an autoimmune disorder, and skin cancer have all been associated with recurrent Malassezia infections.

Treating Dog Paw Yeast Infections

Medications that treat canine yeast infections include chlorhexidine, miconazole, ketoconazole, and itraconazole, which should be applied according to your veterinarian’s instructions and may include soaking the affected paws. Be sure to thoroughly dry your dog’s feet after treatment. Keeping your dog’s feet clean and dry and consulting your veterinarian when symptoms appear can keep yeast infections from spreading.

In severe or recurrent cases, oral antifungal medications such as fluconazole or itraconazole work systemically to prevent yeast cells from multiplying.

Frequently suggested home remedies such as vinegar foot soaks, Epsom salt baths, hydrogen peroxide, or witch hazel sprays are ineffective and not supported by clinical research. Other unproven strategies include adding yogurt, probiotics, or coconut oil to your dog’s food, switching to a “yeast-free” or “anti-yeast” dog food, or reducing carbohydrates in your dog’s diet.

A better nutritional strategy is to improve your dog’s diet. Feeding higher-quality protein sources and other ingredients can improve the health of his skin, strengthening its defenses against yeast and fungi. Also, if food allergies are suspected, a food elimination trial is in order; talk to your veterinarian about how to conduct an effective food elimination trial.

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