A dog scooting along the ground, rubbing his behind, is likely telling you he is uncomfortable and needs anal gland expression. Credit: Pete’s Photography | Getty Images
Anal gland expression is the act of manually emptying the anal glands for the dog. While this is a procedure best left to a veterinary professional, some groomers offer the service and some pet owners do learn how to safely express their dog’s anal glands themselves.
Anal glands or anal sacs are gumball- to grape-sized sacks on either side of the dog’s anus that contain stinky secretions. If the anus were a clockface, the anal glands would sit at about 4 and 8 o’clock. Most dogs empty their anal glands a little bit naturally every time they have a bowel movement. The passing feces puts pressure on the glands and squeezes some of the secretions out. This keeps the glands at a comfortable size for the dog.
Uncomfortable Anal Glands
When a dog’s anal glands are too full, they are uncomfortable. Some dogs will drag themselves along on their bottoms or “scoot” to try to relieve the pressure. Others lick the area for the same reason. Sometimes owners notice the smell periodically as some of the stinky stuff leaks out from the overly full gland. Any dog showing these signs will feel better once their anal glands are expressed.
Reasons for a dog to be unable to successfully release secretions with bowel movements include:
Improper positioning of the gland and its opening duct (especially in overweight dogs)
Sometimes expressing the anal glands requires insertion of a gloved finger into the dog’s rectum, especially if the bulge of the overly full glands cannot be seen or felt from the outside. With this technique, the gland is squeezed between the index finger inside the rectum and the thumb of the same hand outside the anus. The process is then repeated for the gland on the other side.
If the bulge of the anal glands can be seen or felt from the outside, they can sometimes be expressed by applying pressure to the outside of one gland with your index finger, simultaneously applying pressure to the outside of the other gland with your thumb on the same hand. With this technique both glands are expressed simultaneously.
Anal glands should only be expressed when the dog shows signs of discomfort. Otherwise, allow the dog to naturally express the glands and decrease his dependence on manual anal gland expression. Adding fiber to the dog’s diet in the form of pumpkin or psyllium powder sometimes helps dogs achieve natural anal gland expression by bulking up passing bowel movements.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Boone’s DNA test results is the fact that he doesn’t look anything like any of the breeds detected by any of the companies. Most people think he’s some sort of Doodle!
I recently received the results of my dog Boone’s mixed-breed DNA test from Darwin’s Ark, a nonprofit scientific research organization (which I previously wrote about here). I already had results from Wisdom Panel and Embark. Here’s what all three have reported finding in Boone’s DNA:
Embark
Wisdom Panel
Darwin’s Ark
42.0% American Pit Bull Terrier
36% American Staffordshire Terrier
59.4% American Pit Bull Terrier
29.1% American Staffordshire Terrier
29% American Pit Bull Terrier
21.1% Unknown
8.1% American Bulldog
6% Boxer
6.6% English Springer Spaniel
8.1% German Wirehaired Pointer
6% German Wirehaired Pointer
4.7% Boxer
8% Boxer
5% American Bulldog
3.1% Great Dane
4.7% English Springer Spaniel
5% English Springer Spaniel
3% German Shorthaired Pointer
4% Great Dane
2.1% Labrador
3% Australian Cattle Dog
2% German Shorthaired Pointer
2% Labrador
2% Chow Chow
I know it’s my dog, but I find these results fascinating, both for the similarities and for the differences in what they found and their estimated quantities of each breed. Not to even mention the fact that Boone doesn’t particularly look like any of the breeds suggested by any of the companies.
All three companies concur that Boone is mostly one or the other or both of the most common bully breeds. Embark and Darwin’s Ark agree that he’s more American Pit Bull Terrier than anything; Wisdom Panel thinks that he’s more American Staffordshire Terrier than anything. Embark and Wisdom Panel agree that he’s got both Pit Bull and Am Staff heritage, whereas Darwin’s Ark makes no mention of Am Staff at all – but the company does not include American Staffordshire Terrier among the list of breeds it can currently identify.
Embark and Wisdom Panel both think Boone has some American Bulldog genes. Darwin’s Ark did not report this – but, again, it doesn’t yet have American Bulldogs on the list of breeds it says it can identify. Also, unlike the other two companies, Darwin’s does not attempt to make its results add up to 100%; it reported a 21.1% “unknown” genetic contribution to Boone. So Am Staff and American Bulldog may well make up a goodly percentage of Darwin’s Ark’s 21.1% of “unknown” genes.
All three companies identified contributions from Boxers and English Springer Spaniels, and even their calculations regarding the concentration of those breeds matched fairly closely. The estimated contribution of Boxer genetics ranged from 4.7% to 8%. The estimated contributed from Springer Spaniels ranged from 4.7% to 6.6%.
All three companies identified at least one German pointer. Wisdom Panel suggested that Boone contains small amounts of both German Wirehaired Pointer and German Shorthaired Pointer. Embark reported only German Wirehaired Pointer. Darwin’s Ark reported only German Shorthaired Pointer.
Two of the three (Wisdom Panel and Darwin’s Ark) found some Great Dane genes (4% to 3.1%, respectively) and some Labrador genes (2% and 2.1%, respectively). Neither breed was identified by Embark.
Using just Boone’s results to draw conclusions about the three companies, it feels like they are all finding comparable results. Embark sells its Breed ID DNA Test for $109 to $129, depending on its various discounts. Wisdom Panel currently sells its Breed Discovery kit for $84 – the lowest price of all three companies, unless you submit your dog’s DNA to Darwin’s Ark for research purposes only, in which case the company will run your dog’s sample for free, but you may not receive the results for years. Darwin’s Ark uses these samples in its research; it has a number of scientists using the data it collects for some fascinating studies on obsessive-compulsive disorder, cancer, food allergies, the traits shared by working dogs, and more.
If you want to pay for faster (but not fast) service, Darwin’s Ark charges $149. The company will run your dog’s DNA in a batch of 20 when they receive 19 other samples to run. This took about four months for Boone’s sample. The for-profit companies are much quicker with their results – just understand that they, too, are likely including your dog’s DNA in their research studies, but without the transparency and invitation for you to participate in “citizen science” surveys about health and behavior offered by Darwin’s Ark.
It’s usually very easy to teach “Shake” to dogs like Boone, who are naturally “pawsy.” In this case, the photographer worked as a team with her grandson, Oliver. He gave the physical cues (holding out his hand) and she used a verbal marker (“Yes!”) when Boone lifted his foot. This prompted Oliver to deliver the treat to Boone. Photos by Nancy Kerns.
Several training techniques can be used to teach a dog to “Shake hands.” Here are four methods for teaching this amusing trick – capturing, shaping, lure-shaping, and prompting. Different dogs may respond better to one method than another; you should use whichever training method works best for your dog. We will describe which method tends to work best with dogs with different behavioral tendencies. Here’s how to use each of these training techniques to teach your dog to “give a paw” on cue:
“Capture” the Paw Lift
Some dogs are naturally “pawsy,” often using their feet to touch you or objects they are playing with. These are the easiest to teach to shake.If this describes your dog, try this method:
Just hang out with your dog (it’s best if she’s sitting) and wait for her to lift a paw.
When she does, “mark” this behavior with the click of a clicker (or other reward marker, such as a “thumbs-up” hand signal or a verbal marker such as “Yes!”) and give her a treat.
Repeat by marking any lifts of that same paw (chose left or right – but not both!) until your dog realizes she’s getting reinforced for the paw lift, and then add your “Shake” cue just before she lifts her paw. With enough repetitions she’ll offer her paw even every time you cue her to “Shake.”
Now start offering your hand so she can rest her paw on it for your final shake behavior.
At first, the team “captured” Boone’s behavior of shifting his weight, by using the verbal marker (“Yes!”) and giving him a treat when one of his front paws moved. Then, they raised the criteria, waiting for him to lift a paw off the ground before marking and giving him a treat. Because he’s been trained with these methods before, Boone knew to keep offering various behaviors as he worked to find what would result in a Yes! and treat. Within just a few tries, Boone waved his paw in the air. Yes! and Jackpot!
“Shape” the Shake
Shaping shake works well for dogs who move their feet often while otherwise sitting still, but don’t raise a paw high enough to shake. If this describes your dog, try this method:
Start by having your dog sitting in front of you. The instant you see a tiny movement with either foot, mark the behavior and feed her a treat.
Now focus on that paw only (if you randomly mark the movement of either paw you may get a shuffle instead of a shake!) and continue to mark and treat for any paw movement.
As your dog starts to move that foot on purpose in anticipation of reinforcement, very gradually raise the criteria you require in order to mark and treat. For example, only mark-treat if the paw moves at least one inch off the floor. When that happens consistently, raise the criteria to two inches. Continue raising the criteria slowly, add your cue, and you’re off and shaking!
Then the team raised criteria again: They waited for Boone to touch Oliver’s hand with his paw, or, in this case, his paw and wrist. No worries! It’s a closer approximation of the desired behavior, so he gets a “Yes!” and treat. Then they raise criteria again, waiting for him to more precisely put his paw in Oliver’s hand.
“Lure-Shape” the Shake
If your dog sits perfectly still with no paw movement at all, try this method, lure-shaping the paw lift.
Hold a treat at the end of her nose and slowly lift it until her nose is pointed almost straight up. Now move the treat slowly to one side so she shifts her weight onto one foot and the other paw lifts slightly. Mark and treat.
Repeat until the paw lift gets easier and she starts to offer paw movement without the lure, then continue as described in the shaping section, luring if needed while you raise criteria. Fade your lure as quickly as possible so that you can get your “Shake” on verbal cue.
When shaping, the dog will try a few behaviors, in an effort to discover which behavior gets the treat. It’s important to not mark and treat efforts that take him farther from the behavior you want. In this case, Boone tried putting both his paw and his nose on Oliver’s hand. The team didn’t say “No” or discourage him; they just waited for a closer approximation of what they were after.
“Prompting” the Paw
If the above-mentioned methods fail, you can prompt your dog to move her paw. We would rarely start teaching a behavior using a physical prompt, as dogs tend to learn best when their freely offered behaviors are marked and rewarded, rather than when they are pressured by a physical touch. However, some dogs are reluctant to offer behaviors (perhaps from being physically punished or intimidated for offering behaviors in the past); these dogs may benefit from a very gentle prompt.
Start by by lightly tickling or pressing gently on your dog’s pastern (the back of her ankle).
Mark and treat the moment her paw moves! Good girl!
Repeat until she starts to offer paw movement as you reach toward her paw – and if she does, don’t follow through with the prompt, but mark and treat for the movement. Then switch to shaping or lure-shaping as described above to get to your final paw-shaking goal.
Boone learned to touch the bellman’s bell within a minute of learning “shake” and high-five.
Paw Targeting
When your dog has learned that moving her paw earns treats, she can teach learn how to do other things with her feet. Teach her to touch her paw to a designated object to ring a bell, turn on a light, push a rolling toy – and these fun behaviors are just the beginning. Have more fun with your dog’s paws!
Once you’ve taught your dog to touch something with his foot, it’s easy to teach more behaviors, such as giving a high-five or simply waving his paw in the air.
It’s easy to make your own healthful bone broth for your dog. While the traditional method uses the stove top, Instant Pots reduce the time needed to prepare bone broth to a fraction of the stove-top time. Photo by Lorenzo Capunata, Getty Images
Bone broth is a simple soup stock made by cooking bones from beef, pork, lamb, goat, bison, poultry, fish, or other meats in water. Traditionally a convalescent food for humans recovering from illness, it has become a popular treat for dogs. Bone broth is promoted for the improvement of:
Digestion and nutrient assimilation
Skin, coat, and nail health
Immune function
Joint mobility
Detoxification support
Bone broth is rich in gelatin, a protein-rich substance that, when heated and cooled, forms a gel-like texture (think Jello). Gelatin added to other foods aids digestion and provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Because it contains some but not all of the essential amino acids, gelatin is nutritionally incomplete and should not be used as a stand-alone meal substitute.
How much bone broth to feed
The recommended daily amount for dogs is 1 fluid ounce per 10 pounds of body weight, such as 6 fluid ounces (3/4 cup) for a 60-pound dog. Start with smaller amounts to be sure your dog tolerates it well and increase gradually.
Several bone broth products, including dehydrated powders, are sold as canine nutritional supplements or meal toppers. Some are made from the bones of pasture-raised or grass-fed animals, which are considered more nutritious than factory farmed animal bones. Examples include Open Farm Bone Broth for Dogs and Caru Bone Broths for Dogs and Cats. Products made from human-grade ingredients include Honest Kitchen Bone Broth and Solid Gold Bone Broths.
Made-for-dogs bone broths are a safer choice than broths sold for human consumption because they are less salty and don’t contain onions or other ingredients that can be toxic to dogs.
What’s the difference between “stock” and bone broth?
The term “bone broth” is often used interchangeably with “stock” and plain “broth,” but there are differences. Bone broth is made by simmering bones for extended periods so the result is rich in nutrients, gelatin, and collagen and often consumed for health benefits. Stock is prepared by simmering bones with vegetables and aromatics for a shorter period to produce a flavorful base for sauces, soups, and stews. Plain broth is made by simmering meat and vegetables in water for a short time for use as a light flavor base.
Bone broth recipe
Start with 3 to 4 pounds of raw or leftover bones with meat and connective tissue attached. In a large pot, slow cooker, or Instant Pot add enough filtered water to cover the bones by 2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar or lemon juice. If desired, add 4 cups chopped carrots, celery, pumpkin, green beans, or other dog-friendly vegetables. Let stand for 30 minutes before cooking to enhance the release of minerals.
Stovetop: Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a bare simmer, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and cook for 24 hours (poultry bones) or 48 hours (beef or red meat bones).
Slow cooker or crock pot: On low heat setting, cook for 24 hours (poultry) or 48 hours (beef, red meat).
Oven: Bring ingredients to a boil on the stove, then transfer to a large oven-safe ceramic or metal pot with lid and bake, covered, at 150ºF for 15 to 24 hours
Instant Pot: Close lid and set to cook on low pressure for 4 hours (poultry) or 5 hours (beef or red meat). Let pressure release naturally.
Strain broth through a fine mesh sieve or muslin fabric and transfer to jars for storage. Discard the layer of fat that collects at the top. Refrigerate for up to 7 days, freeze for up to 3 months.
Some dogs enjoy licking ice cubes – a refreshing, hydrating treat and time-consuming entertainment and enrichment. If your dog chews the cubes, however, provide softer and/or smaller cubes, as described below. Photo by K_Thalhofer, Getty Images
Dogs love ice cubes when temperatures rise, and even in cold weather, many dogs enjoy the satisfying crunch of ice.
Going too long without water causes dehydration, and consuming gently melting ice cubes helps prevent that condition. As a result, ice cubes are generally considered to be beneficial for dogs while the risk of health problems caused by their consumption of ice is extremely low.
However, the risk isn’t zero, for ice cubes can literally crack a dog’s teeth. According to Tennessee pet dentist Barden Greenfield, DVM, “Dogs have a tendency to chew too hard, and the force of breaking ice is substantial. This can lead to a slab fracture (broken tooth) of the upper 4th premolar, which many times exposes the pulp, leading to tremendous oral pain and discomfort. Treatment options are root canal therapy or surgical removal.”
The risk of breaking a tooth increases with the size of frozen cubes, so to avoid this possibility while satisfying your dog’s ice cravings:
Freeze small or miniature cubes instead of large ones.
Offer shaved ice instead of cubes.
Add ingredients that produce softer cubes, such as small amounts of honey or yogurt, to prevent a “too hard” freeze.
For added flavor and variety, try freezing:
Salt-free or low-salt bone broth.
Water pureed with a small amount of cooked meat or fish.
Broth or water mixed with unsweetened coconut milk.
A small treat added to each cube before freezing, such as a banana slice, blueberry, piece of cooked meat, or dollop of peanut butter, any of which can be a surprise present for your dog.
Contrary to what many believe, dogs don’t naturally know how to swim. When dogs “dog paddle,” it’s more of a survival mechanism than a swim stroke, and it’s a very inefficient way to move through the water. Here’s how you can help your dog develop a smoother swim stroke:
Practice safe swimming. Bodies of water pose numerous dangers to dogs: playing to the point of exhaustion or heat stroke, “water poisoning” (a frequently lethal condition that results from the body taking in more water than it can handle), or poisoning from toxic algae blooms are all possibilities when working around the water. Know where the nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital is located – both near your home and when travelling. For more safety tips, see “Keep Your Dog Safe Around the Pool This Summer.”
Fit your dog with a life jacket. A well-fitting life jacket can help your dog relax in the water when he realizes he’s not sinking. The added buoyancy also helps support heavily muscled breeds and can make it easier for older or less athletic dogs to maintain their limited endurance.
Go slow. Not all dogs enjoy water and that’s OK. Never throw your dog in the water thinking he’ll figure it out. If you’re working around a pool, take time to build a positive association with the steps – where your dog will safely exit – so he knows how to get out. Feeding treats or offering a toy on the top step helps. You can also build your dog’s confidence by taking him to a natural body of calm water and letting him wade at his own pace.
Practice an effective swim stroke. Work in calm water where you can safely and comfortably stand. Once your dog is comfortable around the water, on the top step or wading in so long as there’s land below, carry him in and lower yourselves into the water. Using the handle on his life jacket or a hand gently supporting his midsection from below, point your dog toward the exit point and let him go once he’s relatively relaxed.
Don’t overdo it. Swimming is not only a good workout, learning to swim is a mental workout. Keep sessions short and positive and give your dog plenty of time to rest after a swim session.
Don’t snatch your dog’s fetch item away the moment he brings it to you. Praise him enthusiastically as he’s coming toward you, and back away to encourage him to keep coming. If he tries to keep the item from you, “trade” him a treat for the fetch item; he’ll drop the ball in order to eat the treat. Photo by Tomml, Getty Images
Any breed of dog can be taught to fetch an item, but some dogs, primarily those with “retriever” in their names usually come a bit more hardwired toward the tendency to chase an object and bring it at least part of the way back to the handler.
For many dogs, the following tips will help teach the game of fetch:
Use an object your dog wants and pique his interest before throwing.
Just because we think something makes a great fetch toy doesn’t mean your dog agrees and will join in the game. Using a favorite object makes it more likely your dog will want to go get it. For some dogs, that might be a favorite toy. For others, it might be an empty water bottle.
Before throwing the object, get your dog interested. Tease him a little bit. “You want it? Can’t get it!” as you wiggle the toy his direction and then make it skitter away as if it’s a small prey animal. Observe your dog’s reaction; it’s easy to overdo it, and if you come on too strong, your dog may disengage.
When your dog is showing excited interest in the object, give it a toss.
Keep your throws short in the beginning.
Avoid throwing the toy across the yard or even across the room to start. A toss of 6 to 10 feet is perfect. Once your dog understands and is excited about the game, you can make your throws longer.
Back away as your dog returns.
If your dog runs out and picks up the toy, offer praise as you back away and encourage your dog to come toward you. Avoid standing still, as that can create social pressure as your dog returns and sees you standing there like a wall. Backing away as you pat your legs and acknowledge your dog’s brilliance can encourage her to keep moving in your direction.
Maintain excitement about the fetch item.
Some dogs will chase the toy as it moves but lose interest once it lands. If your dog runs out to the toy but doesn’t pick it up, run out and snatch it up yourself! Celebrate with the toy and treat it like a special prize. Your attention to the toy can help increase its value and make it more likely your dog will show more interest on the next throw. Tease your dog with the toy and, when he seems especially interested, try another short toss.
Mistakes to avoid
One of the fastest ways to teach a dog to play keep away with the toy rather than return to you is to immediately snatch and re-throw the toy as soon as he returns. Your dog did all the work in running out and coming back with the toy, he should be able to enjoy the fruits of his labor for a bit. When your dog returns with the toy, offer calm praise and petting without so much as thinking about reaching for the toy for 15 to 30 seconds. Make sure you’re petting your dog in a way he enjoys – you’ll know you’re getting it right because he sticks around. If he releases the toy on his own, you can pick it up and toss it again. Otherwise, wait the full 15 to 30 seconds before asking him to release the toy and preparing for the next throw. Alternatively, offer to “trade” him a treat for the fetch item.
Quit while you’re ahead
Ending the game before your dog loses interest will strengthen your fetch game. Try to avoid the “just one more throw” syndrome, especially when your dog is getting tired. Leave him wanting more.
Excessive fetch can do more harm than good and can turn fetch into an obsession that makes it difficult for your dog to relax. That’s because of the hormones released in the brain during the chase. A prolonged adrenaline rush isn’t good for any living being. It’s also important to prevent injury when playing fetch. Torn ligaments are especially common among fetch-obsessed dogs.
Shaping a more formal retrieve
Some people prefer to teach “fetch” as a more formal behavior that can be used in dog sports or service dog work. Denise Fenzi, founder of Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, offers a great blog post where she explains her approach to teaching a structured retrieve and includes unedited videos documenting the process with a client’s Border Collie.
Small and succulent are keywords for the best training treats for puppies. Note: Make sure you deliver the pup’s treats right to his lips; holding the treat as shown in this photo will encourage the puppy to jump up, breaking his nice sit and establishing a bad habit (for both of you!). Photo by George Peters, Getty Photos
Here’s what you should know when deciding what treat to use as training treats for your puppy:
Smaller is better!
Puppies and dogs are more impressed by the number of treats they get, not by the size of each individual treat. In this case, bigger isn’t better! Using small treats – the size of your pinky finger or even smaller for toy-breed dogs – will allow you to reward often with less chance of your puppy getting full too soon.
Kibble works well in many cases.
If your dog is extremely food motivated (we’re looking at you, Labradors!) you can likely use your puppy’s kibble for training sessions around the house or other areas with low to moderate distractions. Set aside a portion of your dog’s daily ration of kibble to use as treats so you don’t accidentally over-feed by offering full portions in a bowl plus a significant number of extra calories in training. For training in more distracting environments, such as when training your puppy in public, use the higher-value treats described below.
Most of the time, soft treats are ideal.
While kibble often works for dogs who are highly motivated by food – who swallow it down before even realizing it’s in their mouths – most of the time, soft treats are preferred so you don’t lose time waiting for your puppy to crunch through a hard treat. With a puppy’s short attention span, it’s important to keep them engaged in the game.
Options to consider.
There are plenty of commercially available treats on the market. We recommend avoiding many of the brands commonly available in the petfood aisle of grocery stores and heavily advertised on television (no, that’s not really bacon you smell, Fido!), as they are often made from low-quality ingredients.
The key attributes to look for are small, soft, stinky, and easy to digest. I like to use the dog food rolls made by Happy Howie’s, Red Barn, and Lucy Pet Products. They’re packaged like giant salamis and are easily cut into pieces of any size you need. Plus, they’re meaty smelling and in all my years of training dogs, I’ve rarely come across one who isn’t interested in a piece of dog food roll. And, because it’s dog food, it has better nutritional value, which means I’m less concerned about using it often in training.
Another great option is an air-dried dog food like those made by Ziwi Peak and Real Meat. Both offer pre-cut pieces that look like small bites of jerky-style treats usually packaged in long strips.
Think outside the box when choosing treats
It doesn’t have to say “dog treat” on the package to work well in training. There are plenty of other foods to choose from. Some ideas:
String cheese or other cheese varieties cut into tiny pieces.
Turkey hot dogs (turkey dogs are less greasy than the beef or pork variety).
Pre-cooked meatballs are a great, high-value treat for when you need to pull out the “big guns,” and they can be easily pinched into small pieces.
Cooked meats (chicken breast, assorted cuts of beef, etc.) cut into small pieces.
When trying new treats with a young puppy, introduce one type at a time so you can keep track of how your puppy tolerates the new food item. Some puppies have more robust digestive systems than others. Also, be mindful of the amount of treats you’re using. A young puppy’s digestive reaction to a treat can be just as much about over-indulging as is about not tolerating the specific treat.
Woody is super patient with kids and all small creatures. When his space is invaded, he deploys his long tongue, which usually gets kids to back off an inch or two. I don’t worry about these two being together out of my sight.
The difficulty and importance of supervising kids and dogs.
When my son was born, I had a very shy and somewhat fearful Border Collie named Rupert, who was not thrilled with the addition of a screaming human infant to our family. I worked to desensitize and counter-condition Rupert to baby sounds that he found distressing, and we did OK for some months . . . but when Eli started walking at just 10 months old, I had to employ baby gates all over the house to keep Rupert and Eli separated when I couldn’t actively supervise them. I was a single mom; I couldn’t be everywhere at once.
And I mean actively, because here is a recipe for disaster: Take one very active though wobbly 10-month-old baby, and one very active and sensitive Border Collie, and do not mix them alone together ever! Because it takes just a second for something bad to happen – or, in my case, almost happen.
When Eli was just about 18 months, I was unloading all of us and a bag of groceries out of the car, home after a long day at work. I was the part-owner of a horse magazine at the time, and both Rupert and Eli came to work with me every day (we had baby gates all over the office, too). I let Rupe jump out of the “way back” of the car, took Eli out of his car seat and set him on the ground, turned back to the car to grab the bag of groceries – and when I turned around, I saw the closest near-miss of a face-bite that I’ve ever seen. Rupert was standing near me when Eli took a step and stumbled, falling toward the Border Collie with open hands, grabbing handfuls of fur as he fell. And Rupert snapped at Eli’s face as he whirled away from the falling toddler. I was RIGHT THERE and if Rupert had chosen to make contact with my baby’s face, he certainly could have scarred him for life.
Eli was fine and the dog was fine, but I burst into tears. I realized in that moment that I had too much on my plate to single-handedly manage the dog and the toddler – and a young business only on the verge of solvency, requiring long hours of work every week). I called my mom and asked if she and my dad could take Rupert in for a while. Rupe ended up living with them for about a year and a half, until Eli was more steady on his feet and could listen to instructions, and I had things more under control.
Why am I talking about all of this now, 30 years later? Because, like many grandparents, I am reliving the kid/dog challenge at the moment.
My husband’s two adult children have three sons between them. The 11-year-old grandson stays with us for a time every summer, so he’s familiar to my dogs – but he also doesn’t love dogs. He likes them OK, he’ll gently pat one once in a while, he expresses momentary curiosity about any foster puppies I have, but he would not miss any of the dogs if they were not here. And he absolutely does not interact with them on his own; he’s just not interested.
But the 7-year-old grandson has never spent time with us here until this summer; he’s with us for 10 days. This kid loves, loves, loves dogs – and that’s actually more of a problem than a kid who does not love dogs, because he is trying to hug and kiss and gaze into the eyes of my two dogs every chance he gets. He wants to run alongside them, use them for pillows on the couch, lay on their beds with them, feed them every meal and treat, boss them around, and sleep with them on his bed.
Thank dog for Uncle Woody, my 7-year-old Pit Bull-mix. He loves, loves, loves kids, and (so far) hasn’t seemed to mind all of this adulation too much. He has also never minded human touch of any kind; he’s fine with being used as a pillow, you can move him or mold him to help you fit better together on a couch, and he doesn’t even mind investigations of his silky ears, loose lips, or paw pads. He’s always mindful of his big, strong body, and hasn’t knocked over a kid yet (although he’s given me plenty of bruises while roughhousing!). His main defense when the 7-year-old gets too intimate is to ply the kid with face licks – long, extravagant swoops of the tongue, all over his mouth, nose, eyes, and ears. Woody completely understands that this puppy is just a love-bug like himself, albeit one with a dirty face.
But I have two dogs. And the second one is not as much of a fan.
Boone is about a year and a half old. According to the results of his mixed-breed DNA tests, he, too, is a Pit Bull-mix (about 60% American Pit Bull Terrier!) – though I don’t think anyone on earth would guess that from looking at him. But he’s only lived through one summer with one kid present (the now-11-year-old, who doesn’t really interact with dogs). So Boone is not sure what to make of this smaller, adoring and affectionate boy, whose hands are always reaching for him, who constantly tries to smooth the hair away from his eyes so he can look deeply into them. Boone is both pleased and excited by the attention and a little leery of being touched by the youngster. He finds those prying little hands annoying – and a couple of times, I’ve heard him growl at the boy.
And I’m thrilled to hear him growl.
Why on earth?
Because a growl gives both the boy and me information. It lets us know that whatever the boy is doing is making Boone uncomfortable. It lets me know that I need to take immediate steps to keep both of them safe and take steps later to build Boone’s comfort with being in close proximity to the boy. We never punish a growl, because if we do so, we risk losing that early warning that tells us that the dog is uncomfortable. A sog who has been punished for growling may learn to skip growling to avoid being punished for it, but under increasing pressure from a kid, will just go straight to a bite. We do not want to suppress growls; we want all the warning signals we can have.
Boone is less comfortable with kids. We manage their interactions much more carefully; I don’t allow Boone to be unsupervised for even a minute with such a young kid.
And while a 7-year-old boy may or may not know what to do when he hears this message, I do, and I can educate the boy: It means to give the dog some room, to back away from the dog, and think about what just happened, so we can make sure not to put the dog through that again. I ask, “What were you doing before Boone growled, do you remember? Were you touching him? Looking at him? Did he have a toy in his mouth?” When I have the answers, we talk it over: “Hey, Boone’s feet are really, really ticklish and he does not want you to touch them. He doesn’t laugh when he gets tickled, he gets mad – and when dogs get mad, they might bite. Can you make sure not to touch his feet anymore?”
Boone doesn’t get punished, but he receives some instruction, too. Dogs don’t get to decide who they share the couch with; humans have more rights to the couches than dogs do. So when Boone growls, he gets asked to hop off the couch – and when he does, he’s told, “Yes! Good boy!” He gets to accompany me into the kitchen for some treats, and he gets a few more when he complies with my request to lay on a new resting spot, such as the dog bed or the couch without a boy on it. In this way, we build the attractiveness of Boone’s option to hop off the couch any time the boy is bothering him – and any time he volunteers to leave, I’m going to jump up and get him some treats to reinforce his brilliant idea.
So, decades after first learning about kids and dogs, I’m back to managing and separating – though, happily, I can tell the kid what to do and not to do with the dogs and he’s compliant. In contrast, babies and toddlers can’t (and shouldn’t) be counted on to remember and follow rules such as, “Let the dogs finish their dinner alone!” I don’t need baby gates – but when I’m not able to supervise their interactions, I have been keeping Boone with me or locked in my office. And even with this minor concern, it’s been a huge pleasure to help educate both the youngsters about each other’s species.
A dog who refuses to eat is telling you something is wrong. Credit: Saevich Mikalai | Getty Images
It’s easy to panic when an older dog won’t eat, especially if he’s one of those “never misses a meal” dogs. But, sometimes dogs just don’t feel like eating, and one missed meal is rarely a major event.
Before getting upset over a senior dog – or any dog! – not eating, check his food:
Have you changed foods? A change includes staying with the same brand but buying something with a different protein source. Dogs have their favorites, too!
Is the formulation of the food the same? You might be able to tell by the ingredients, but you may need to contact the company to verify that.
Did something in your feeding method change? For some dogs, even a change of bowls (or worn-out cracked bowl!) may make a difference to them. A change of location or time of day could make a difference for some dogs, too.
Changes in your dog’s life may cause a lack of appetite. Consider:
Is the weather hot and muggy? Uncomfortable climate changes can turn off anyone’s appetite, especially our senior dogs. A different mealtime to cooler parts of the day or a cooler room may help.
Could your dog be dealing with stress? Think about things that changed in your household. Have you moved? Is he now going to doggie daycare? Did something cause his exercise patterns change? Is bad weather making walks and other fun activities difficult?
Did you add a new person or pet to the household?
Are you traveling?
Did he recently have vaccinations?
Physical Problems
Many older dogs won’t eat, or won’t eat well, if they have chronic health problems, such as cardiac, renal, or hepatic disease. Anything that makes your dog not feel well can affect his appetite, just as it does most of us:
Dental disease: A dog with a sore mouth may approach food, even act hungry, but then walk away.
Nausea: This could be secondary to liver or kidney problems.
Intestinal blockages: Many dogs are the “eat what I find” kind of canine, which can backfire on them with upset stomach or a blockage.
Toxins: A dog might eat a plant that doesn’t agree with him or, worse yet, ingested a toxin.
Medications: Did you add or remove a supplement your dog was getting or is he on a new or different medication?
Signs that might indicate why a dog to stop eating and should be seen by a veterinarian include:
Diarrhea
Vomiting
Drooling
Nausea
Parasites
Fever
If your dog hasn’t eaten in 24 hours, contact your veterinarian. While the dog can probably go two or three days without food, it’s far from ideal. It’s also likely to make things worse.
Your veterinarian will likely run bloodwork to help identify any worsening or developing problems. A thorough physical examination is important, too. A dog with a sore neck, such as from a previously undetected disc problem, may find it painful to lower his head and eat off the floor. A raised feeder may help.
If there are no obvious health concerns, consider warming his food, adding something with a strong odor, or adding wet food, if your dog is only getting kibble. Remember, too, that dogs rely on smell for appetite. Some plain low-sodium chicken broth or the juice from a can of tuna may be what your senior dog needs to stimulate his appetite. If he still won’t eat, even without other indications, it is time for a veterinary appointment.
Dogs have bones, or vertebrae, in their tails, which means tails can be broken. Credit: Andrew Merry | Getty Images
Dogs have tails because they serve a purpose. If not, they would have genetically disappeared long ago, as they have on other mammals.
Dogs have bones in their tail called coccygeal vertebrae. Long tails generally have 22 to 23 bones in them. The shorter, curly tails can have as few as six coccygeal vertebrae.
Any bone can break, or fracture, which means dogs can break their tails. Trauma like getting caught in a door, a heavy object falling on it, and even bite wounds can result in a broken tail.
Broken Dog Tails
Broken tails are painful. You may notice swelling at the fracture site. X-rays are necessary to confirm and assess the fracture. Some tail fractures, depending on where they are and how well the broken ends are aligned, will heal on their own, or with the help of a lightweight splint made with tongue depressors or plastic syringe cases.
However, fractures of the larger coccygeal vertebrae with displaced edges sometimes require orthopedic surgery where a metal plate is used to repair the broken bone.
If you suspect your dog may have injured his tail, have it examined by your veterinarian. An injured tail can be painful for your dog and disrupt his normal functioning, even if it is not broken.
Why Do Dogs Have Tails?
Dogs use their tails to communicate, both with humans and other dogs. A high, wagging tail coupled with a relaxed demeanor communicates friendliness, happiness, and contentment. However, a wagging tail is not an immediate sign the dog is feeling friendly. It simply means the dog is interested.
A lowered tail, between the legs coupled with cowering communicates fear or anxiety. A straight rigid tail coupled with a rigid body posture and strong eye contact communicates dominance.
Dogs with long tails use their tails to help with movement and balance, especially when turning at speed, which is important for working dogs like the herding breeds.
Dogs use their tails when swimming for propulsion and as a rudder when turning. This is invaluable for retrievers.
Nordic breeds’ big bushy, curved tails are useful for protecting their head and nose from the frozen ground underneath when curled up sleeping.
Some dogs with short tails were bred just for companionship, like the Pug, so long tails were not necessary.
Several companies make devices that attach to the bike’s seat post and contain a special leash with a quick-release. Using one of these products is the safest way to bike with your dog on leash. Photo by Drazen, Getty Images
Riding a bike with a running dog as a companion can be done safely. If you put in the time for training, invest in the proper equipment, and follow some safety rules, the activity can be fun and safe for you both.
Equipment for the cyclist
You’ll need some basic bicycling equipment:
A bike that’s suitable for the terrain where you plan to ride (hybrid bikes are ideal for mainly paved roads, dirt roads, well-mowed fields, and smooth bike trails; mountain bikes are best dirt trails with rougher terrain)
Well-fitting helmet
A water bottle or two (your dog may need more water than you!)
A spare tube or tire repair kit and a tire pump
ID, money (or a credit card), and a cell phone
Beware the “Bike Monster”
Trying to hold onto your dog’s leash, or tying it to your bike’s handlebars, is a sure way to crash your bike and potentially hurt and scare your dog. Letting go of your dog’s leash may save you from a fall – and end up with your dog getting killed by a car. Don’t do this! Photo by Georgeolsson, Getty Images
If you use a bike attachment to connect your dog to your bicycle, never walk away from your parked bike with your dog still attached to it. If your dog decides to follow you, or lunges after a passing squirrel, the bike will come crashing down. If you’re lucky, it won’t fall on your dog, but at the very least the crash will frighten him. Still attached, your dog will try to run away from the scary machine that crashed next to him. The bike then becomes a mechanical monster, chasing him as he tries to escape.
This could end your dog’s career as your riding partner, unless you are able to desensitize him once again to something that he is now terrified of. So to keep the “bike monster” at bay, always detach your dog from the bike when you step away.
Equipment for the dog
Your dog should be equipped with:
ID tags that have your current contact information
A reflective collar, harness, or vest
A leash attachment for your bike
That last item is the most important. Riding a bike while holding a dog’s leash in your hand, or tied to the seat post or handlebars is highly unsafe. The dog can easily pull you off balance causing a crash, or you could collide with your dog if he runs in front of your front tire. If he lags behind, you may be pulled backward, possibly falling and sustaining an injury. Then there’s the possibility of the leash becoming entangled in the wheel spokes, perhaps resulting in serious injury to you both.
Fortunately, there are some devices on the market designed to facilitate a safer, more comfortable ride with your dog. These attachments allow you to keep both hands on your handlebars while keeping your dog at a safe distance from your bike.
Many users of these bike attachments are not only happy with the increased safety they provide, but also claim that their dogs stay focused on running beside the bike and attempt to pull less than when walking on leash.
Bike attachments for cycling with your dog install on either side of your bike. Which side your dog runs on is a matter of preference. If your dog is accustomed to walking or running on your left side, this may be the most natural position for training for bicycling. However, there are other considerations, especially if you ride on roads. As a pedestrian, you should walk or run against (facing) traffic. Having your dog on your left side when on foot keeps your dog safely away from passing cars. But moving vehicles, including bikes, are required by law to travel with traffic, on the right side of the road. Your dog is in a more vulnerable position running on the left side of your bike next to traffic.
All of the products below attach to a bicycle seat post. Each has a bar that holds either a spring-loaded paracord “leash” with a snap on it, or a flexible rubber-like leash section that snaps onto your dog’s collar or harness.
Dog Bike Leash Attachments
Easy Ride V2.0 by Malabi, $75. This one swivels so that your dog can pass behind your bike to change sides.
Sherpa Cycleash, $48. This one is not spring-loaded but uses a rubbery leash section.
Start out slow. Get your dog comfortable with a parked bike before walking him alongside a bike you are pushing. Only when he’s comfortable with these things should you actually mount up and ride – slowly!
Always wear a helmet when cycling. If you need one more reason to convince you, consider this: If you fell and were knocked out, what would happen to your dog?
Ride at a conservative pace, for short distances, until your dog builds fitness.
If your dog’s enthusiasm or speed lags, stop and investigate. Offer him some water, and slow your pace on the way home.
Training Your Dog to Bike With You
To become a good cycling companion, a dog needs to go through a learning curve similar to the one you experienced as a child learning to ride your bike. Your dog should be comfortable around your bike, when you are both stationary and moving. He needs to be familiar with any equipment you use, and learn how to slow down, turn, and stop. And just as you started slowly on your first bike, the time and distance your dog accompanies you on bike rides should increase gradually.
Some dogs are fearful of moving bicycles, so you may need to help your dog become comfortable around your bike.
In your house or garage, start by holding your bike, calling your dog to you, and allowing him to sniff it. Praise him, pet him, and give him a yummy treat to reward his bravery. Lay your bike down, sit on the floor next to your bike, and repeat the exercise. You can even place treats on the tires, the frame, and the pedals, playing a game with your dog while he begins to associate this strange machine with having fun. Next, walk a few steps with your bike and encourage your dog to follow, using praise and treats. Continue to practice indoors, eventually adding your dog’s harness and leash, and moving outdoors only when your dog is comfortable walking alongside you and your bike.
Outdoors, repeat the same walking exercise on leash. Move the bike so it wobbles, make some turns, walk faster then slower, even jog a little. If your dog shows any signs of apprehension, you have progressed too quickly. You may need to practice over several days before your dog will happily walk alongside you and your bike with distractions. When your dog handles these challenges with ease, teach him some cues for behaviors that you will use to guide him when you ride, such as “Slow,” “Stop,” “Easy,” “Turn,” and “Leave It.”
Before you get started
If you and your dog are just beginning to exercise regularly or more strenuously, physical exams by your respective doctors are advisable. Your veterinarian can offer safety precautions regarding age, breed, weight, and thickness of coat.
Check with your vet about when your young puppy’s growth plates are expected to close so you won’t risk injuring your puppy’s development by beginning a structured exercise program too soon. And as with all new forms of exercise, beginning slowly and building up duration and distance over time, no matter what condition you and your dog are in, is the safest way to go.
Starting to ride
Now that your dog walks happily next to you and your bike on-leash, it should be no problem to switch to the cord or leash of a bike attachment. Continue to practice walking with your dog attached to your bike, and if he shows no signs of uneasiness, get on your bike and pedal slowly. If you have gradually accustomed your dog to moving with your bike, he will likely be happy to trot alongside you. Take him for a slow, short excursion, using lots of encouragement, praise, and treats.
Future rides should increase slowly in time and distance, working up to a steady trot. After several rides together, you will begin to develop a feeling for your dog’s natural pace. Your dog may try to keep up until he drops, never showing signs of discomfort, no matter what speed you ride. It is important for you to let him set the pace. Use a comfortable trotting pace for the bulk of your rides.
The frequency, distance, and duration of your rides with your dog depend on many factors. Age, breed, size, fitness level, coat, running surface, and weather should be considered. Keep your dog well-hydrated, familiarize yourself with the symptoms of heatstroke (see “Heat Stroke in Dogs”), inspect his paw pads often, check for harness chafing, and watch for signs of lameness or waning enthusiasm. Increasing distance and duration slowly will help prevent soreness and injury, allowing your dog’s respiratory and musculoskeletal systems to adapt to increasing workloads.
Sometimes, the safety precautions that we take to protect both humans and our companion animals may seem so cumbersome that they take all the fun out of some of our activities. But when it comes to the health and welfare of your dog when accompanying you on bike rides, taking the appropriate safety measures can potentially save your dog’s life, as well as your own. Training, using proper equipment, and adhering to sensible exercise practices actually increase your enjoyment of the sport. “Fun” is knowing that you are keeping your dog as safe as possible while sharing your rides together. Enjoy!
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
