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Visitor at the Door? Use a Dog Gate

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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A dog gate can keep your dogs confined without the need for a crate or a kennel.
WDJ Editor Nancy Kerns keeps a free-standing gate folded closed at the end of the counter on the left, and some peanut butter-covered lick mats and food-stuffed toys in the freezer. The gate is big and cumbersome, but when there is a knock at the door, Nancy can stretch out the gate to span the space in just a few seconds. After she has tossed some food-covered toys onto the kitchen floor, her dogs don’t even notice the kid hawking fundraising candy bars at the door.

If the usual scene at your front door is chaotic – if a knock or the doorbell makes your dog bark, jump, spin, or try to escape – the answer is within reach: Try a dog gate. It’s the incredibly underrated, relaxed management solution that we trainers reach for again and again. Sure, eventually we might like to get to the point where a gate is no longer needed, and it’s lovely when you can train your dog to perform a polite sit or reliable “go to mat” behavior on cue, but the immediate stress relief a gate provides for everyone (including the dog) often makes it the first step in a training plan. Frankly, it works so well it ends up being the last step, too!

Create a New Routine for the First Minutes

Most folks don’t realize, until they try the gate solution, just how critical the first few moments after the doorbell are. The “new person on our property” event is a high-arousal situation for almost every dog. Big feelings are to be expected. However, with smart use of a gate and some food, you can change the default doorway dynamic, improving the whole visit.

Here’s a plan that will change the doorbell and/or knocks on the door into a signal for a calm, rewarding mini-routine that takes place comfortably away from the doorway. In short:

  1. Choose a spot where you can place a gate. (Note that the incredible variety of great gates now on the market means it doesn’t have to be the old standard doorway-mounted version. See “Types of Dog Gates.”) Ideally, this location shouldn’t be too far from where visitors enter – if it’s going to take a long time to run with your dog to that area, and then back to the door alone, you may find yourself sometimes skipping the exercise, which will reduce its effectiveness.
  2. Use food to lure your dog behind the gate whenever somebody’s at the door.
  3. Once there, offer a kibble scatter, a food-stuffed toy or LickiMat, or a bully stick, and soon enough just the sound of a knock or a doorbell will have your dog peacefully trotting back to that spot for a chewing/foraging activity rather than adding drama to the front door activity. (If you want to get to that automatic response more quickly, you can practice this by knocking on the door yourself, or enlisting help from a friend.)

Don’t let the steps intimidate you! This is easy. Part of the reason I love suggesting gates to clients is because a lot of people don’t like training! The second they hear, “First, do this, then to practice, do this,” they are done. So when it comes to the steps for teaching your dog to go behind the gate? Just lure with food. Use good enough food, and he’ll go. Do it enough and he will begin to go the second he hears the doorbell or knock – it’s usually just that easy.

Why This Routine Works

If you let doorway chaos reign – with barking, jumping, and frantic energy – that initial high arousal will climb, particularly if you have multiple dogs. You may be adding to it with repeated and unheeded calls of “sit” and “down,” which ramp up that energy, because you, too, seem aroused. Cue more stress all around, with a splash of guest discomfort.

If, instead, the doorbell in your home initiates a predictable and reinforcing activity behind a gate, dogs are often calm enough to be able to rejoin the humans almost immediately after the entrance. Giving the dogs a break from the intense doorway stress can be the thing that actually allows them to politely hang out with your guests much sooner.

For example, when we have a visitor at the door, my German Shepherd goes into the mud room for maybe 30 seconds (for as long as it takes me to open the front door) and then I immediately bring her right back out. At that point, she’s able to give a happy, calm sniff, and chill out completely.

But if I had let her stand right there for front-door duty? Oh, my. Hello, scary police dog! She’d bark and loom in a very intimidating fashion, and stay notably on alert for a few minutes. That dog is unrecognizable from the one who instead trots quickly to her mud room for a kibble scatter and emerges calmly 30 seconds later. (Trainer/ethologist Kim Brophey calls this the “Off-Duty Hack.” Rather than training a bunch of things like off and down and mat and stay, you simply convey “Hey, it’s okay, I’ve got the door thing handled. Relax, you’re off duty.” Works like a charm.)

Using the Right Food Activity

If you’re thinking that your dog would never willingly leave the all-important doorway job – or that no flimsy gate would keep him back there for more than a minute – you’re right! If you just pop the dog behind a gate with nothing to do but obsess over the stranger he can’t get to, for sure it could ratchet up the drama. What’s more, next time it would be harder to entice him behind the gate, since he learned it means he misses out.

So don’t do it that way! Instead, create a new doorbell-means-fun-times-behind-a-gate dynamic using a food activity that’ll keep your dog occupied for as long as necessary. When I was teaching my shepherd, I just used a quick kibble scatter (maybe 10 pieces of kibble tossed on the floor) because I didn’t need more than 30 seconds and she’s thrilled with all food, even her boring old kibble.

However, some dogs will take much longer (especially the first times you try this routine) to calm down enough to join the human party. In that case, you want to be prepared with something great to forage, chew, or lick that will last the five, 10, or 15 minutes it typically takes to relax. Here’s what’s key: While the dog is enjoying that LickiMat, bully stick, or food-stuffed toy, she’s listening to the stranger’s voice, with yours. She may be getting used to the new human’s scent. It’s ideal if she can actually watch you through the gate to be able to fully assess things and get comfortable with what’s happening. (This is why a gate is entirely different than closing a dog behind an actual door! Those two things feel entirely different to your dog.)

Chewing, licking, and foraging for food are fundamental canine activities that naturally relax our dogs. Typically, the longer your dog is occupied in this way behind that gate, the calmer she’ll become. Sometimes half an hour passes and you go to invite your dog to come join the humans and . . . she looks up and then goes back to her nap.

Note that the more your dog gets used to this new, predictably reassuring pattern, the less enticing and long-lasting your food activity needs to be. At this point with my shepherd, the kibble scatter may or may not happen, and she’s still happily going “off-duty.” Truly, I think she feels relief at having this clear alternate picture of what she can do at what feels to her like a high stakes moment.

Other Gate Uses

It’s not just the doorway chaos that makes a selection of gates a fantastic addition to any dog family. It’s all of the varying circumstances that will come up over the dozen-odd years ahead! Fences do indeed make good neighbors, and having an easy way to temporarily separate living beings can cut way down on stress.

Being able, at any given moment, to split guests and dogs, kids and dogs, dogs from each other, puppies from unsupervised carpets, and dogs from a teenager’s science fair project, goes incredibly far in eliminating unnecessary trouble. (If only more people used gates during holiday gatherings, we’d have fewer sad bite incidents.)

The more you use gates, the more you’ll love them – and the more you’ll love your dogs who suddenly seem so well behaved as they get used to the routine: “Oh, gate time. OK.”

Management THEN Training

On her way to answer the door, author/trainer Kathy Callahan gives Great Pyrenees-mix George and German Shepherd Mojo each a food-stuffed Toppl toy. When the dogs hear a knock or the doorbell, they run for the mudroom, where they know they will receive treats behind the gate.

Maybe you’re reading this and thinking, “Ha! She must be a terrible trainer if she needs to use physical separators instead of just teaching the dogs what to do!”

The thing is, the goal for the vast majority of my clients is just to live together happily, peacefully, with their dog. If a gate can accomplish two-way satisfaction tomorrow with about a minute of “training,” then that is a giant win. When stress goes away, the canine-human relationship heals. Happy human; happy dog.

Of course, that moment is an opportune time to venture into some fun-and-treat-filled training sessions! Sure, they might even involve doorway behaviors. But you know what will make those sessions more likely to succeed in the end? The fact that the pressure is off. Now that a gate is in place, there’s no deadline, no fear of failure. So if the dog learns that “mat” thing – what a fun trick! But if not? No biggie. The dog and the human are experiencing in-sync multi-species living all the same.

Why Not Use Crates or Tethers?
You absolutely can try to create the same mini-routine regarding the doorway using a crate or a tether. But often a dog can be more immediately on board and relaxed behind a gate, because it’s less confining and offers more freedom of movement. The gate can be a really helpful tool for folks who’ve not had success with crate-training.

Types of Dog Gates

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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This pressure-mounted gate (MidWest Steel Pet Gate) is easy to pop in and out of the 4 little plastic discs mounted on the sides of the doorway. When it's up, I can even answer the front door while hosting my puppy socialization group, as demonstrated here. Photo by Kathy Callahan.

There is no end to the useful applications for dog gates – and today, there’s no end to the sizes, types, and designs of dog gates that are available. It’s so easy to use them to help you and your dog live more happily together; the most difficult part might be choosing which ones look best in your home.

Here are the main types of gates available and what applications they are best for:

Pressure-Mounted Gates,
Tall Dog Gates, Gates With
Small Pet Doors

These gates are probably the kind that most dog owners are familiar with. Most have rubbery casters on both ends that will hold the gate against both sides of a doorway and some sort of mechanism that expands and contracts the width of the gate to make it fit tightly in the doorway.

If you have medium-to-large dogs as well as smaller pets in the home, buying a gate that has a small-pet door built into it can allow the cat, rabbit, or other small animal to run through the gate easily, but prevent the dog from following.

The type we like best have easy-to-use openings – a doorway you can open and shut within the gate. To maintain the stability of the gate when it’s opened and closed, these have a small bar that spans the bottom of the doorway, which you have to step over. Many companies offer extensions of various widths for these gates, usually sold separately.

My favorite model of this type works like this MidWest Steel Pet Gate, with four discreet little rubber discs – “pressure mounts” – that are applied to the door frame with sticky tape (for extra security, each can also be fastened to the door frame with a single wood screw). When the gate is not in use, I remove the gate altogether; the discs stay in place. When I’m hosting puppies, I just pop the gate ends back into the discs and expand/tighten the gate with its tension knobs.

A similar model is Carlson Pet Products’ Extra Tall Walk-Thru Gate with Pet Door. This gate mounts and is adjusted in the same way as the MidWest gate, but has a small, cat-sized (8-inch square) doorway built into the gate. As long as your dog is larger than a cat, with the gate closed and the cat door open, your cat can come and go (or escape your dog, if need be) while your dog is securely contained behind the gate.

We don’t recommend this old-fashioned type of gate. Most folks find the adjustment bar a pain to set and operate, and end up just wrestling the gate in and out of the doorway – and unless it’s set to a particularly snug fit, most dogs find they can push them over, too!

The least expensive kind of pressure-mounted gate is easily available in big-box stores like Walmart, and they’re typically marketed for use with babies and pets. These don’t have a swinging door to allow you to go through; instead, they have some sort of bar that lifts to cause the gate to contract in width and is lowered to expand and lock the gate at the desired width. These can work well, but they take longer than most gates to open and close the again; most people with these gates end up stepping over them, in order to avoid having to adjust their width each time. Or, they stop adjusting the width but just force them in and out of position as needed (the trouble is, if they can be pushed out of place that easily, your dog may quickly learn to do that, too. We don’t recommend them! (See “Gates We Do Not Recommend,” below.)

Folks with open-plan homes may have a hard time finding a good spot for a pressure-mounted gate, but don’t forget that a stairway, bathroom, or bedroom can work.

Hardware-Mounted Dog Gates: Best for Stairs

These are the sturdiest option, because they are secured tightly to the door frame. These are often the best choice for permanent (or at least, years-long) installations – as opposed to something you will use just for visiting dogs or for the time that it takes to house-train your new puppy. Many of them are made by the same companies that make pressure-mounted gates and they may closely resemble those products, but fasten to the door frame with wood screws. An advantage that may feel very significant for some is that they lack the floor-level bar that maintains the integrity of the pressure-mounted gates; when you open the gate, there is nothing to step (or trip) over.

For safety at the top of stairs, nothing can beat a well-installed, hardware-mounted gate. Period.

The long-time favorite hardware-mounted gate of WDJ editor Nancy Kerns is the KidCo Wall-Mounted Pet Gate. She bought one for a WDJ review of gates in the late 1990s that is still being used in an outdoor application (blocking a side entrance to a deck) at her sister’s house!

Stand-Alone Dog Gates, Gates for Extra-Wide Spaces

This type of stand-alone gate is attractive and versatile (and don’t forget that gates that separate dogs from guests during the holidays will prevent bites from stressed dogs!). Con: Lacking wide braces for the “feet,” this sort of gate needs to be angled in a zig-zag to stand alone, and you will likely have to use other pieces of furniture, as seen here, to secure the ends from being easily pushed aside. Photo by Kathy Callahan.

One of my very favorite dog-management tools is the freestanding, unmounted gate. There are two kinds: one has footings that allow it to stand alone; the other has a few sections connected by hinges, which allow it to stand alone when it’s in a V or W shape.

The first type, with footings, tends to be a little heavier (so they aren’t easily pushed out of the way by your dog) and bulkier to store, but if you have an open-plan design with few doorways, this can be your answer. They’re available in everything from a bargain utilitarian white metal to very high-end wood and wrought iron pieces designed to make you not mind having them in place.

To pass through the ones meant for smaller openings, you generally would just drag or slide one end to the side and replace it behind you. The longer ones that span wider openings usually have a hinged gate built into one panel, such as the Kinpaw Freestanding Foldable Pet Gate. Some, like that gate, are made with hinges connecting each section, so they can be folded for storage, or to fit variously shaped openings (great for the foot of stairways that are wide or irregularly shaped). Others are built straight, like Carlson’s Extra-Tall Adjustable Freestanding Pet Gate or Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate (note that this one is very low, only 20 inches high).

This straight, free-standing gate is easy to adjust in width. Con: The position of the feet might make it difficult to put in the right spot to block certain doorways.

I have some of those gates with footings in my house, and they’re perfect for some scenarios every now and then. You know what I use over and over? The easy and attractive hinged gates I find at Home Goods! They’re light enough to pop in and out of play, and they’re pretty enough that I don’t mind seeing them up. This kind of gate can turn that space between the back of your couch and the wall into a perfect little dog confinement area! String two of them together and you’ve separated the dining table from the family room so you can host that dinner party without totally excluding the dog.

Kinpaw extra wide dog gatefreestanding
The “gate within a gate” feature makes it easy to pass through, and the hinges between panels allows for some zig-zagging to customize its fit in your home. Con: Actually, no cons here. The potential disadvantage of the wide feet in the Carlson Free-Standing Gate is eliminated with this design. The ends can still go right up against a door frame, completely blocking any gap at the side of the gate.

People dismiss these because they think, “Oh, that would never hold Rufus.” And yes, that gate might not work during a long boring day when Rufus is alone. But that stand-up gate is your friend for the quick pizza delivery, or neighbor drop-in, or the not-yet-potty-trained puppy visiting for an hour who you’d like to confine to the kitchen. Keep it stashed behind the couch, and pop it up when you know somebody’s due in a few minutes.

The Multi-Purpose Ex-Pen

Few things in dog life are as reliable, flexible, and life-saving as the common wire exercise pen, a.k.a. the ex-pen! These are typically made with eight panels that are joined with little metal sleeves that allow them to flex in any direction. Attach the first panel to the last panel with a couple of metal snaps or carabiners to make a round, square, or rectangular pen, or stretch the panels out to create a door blocker or a room separator. These pens are relatively light and easy to move, which means you have to use some creativity to prevent them from being pushed around by a dog who is determined to move them. But if we’re talking about a quick 30 seconds while you answer the door, the ex-pen standing up in a V or W shape can block a key doorway. Exercise pens are easy to buy in various heights and weights (heavier gauge wire is sturdier and makes the pen harder to knock over) from pet supply stores and online, such as the MidWest Wire Dog Exercise Pen from Chewy.com.

Final Selection Considerations

If you go shopping for dog gates online, you will see that there are gates of every color, material, height, width between bars, etc. Note that very small dogs might be able to walk right between the bars of gates meant for big dogs – but unless your dog has separation anxiety or lacks any self-control whatsoever, you probably won’t need the biggest, tallest gates on the market. If your dog is getting solid exercise and enrichment, he won’t be wildly bounding around needing to vault over things. My 100-lb Great Pyrenees-mix and 75-lb German Shepherd could easily pop over my shorter gates, but they don’t. With regular practice and reinforcement for respecting these barriers, they readily accept the short-term containment. “Oh, it’s gate time. OK.”

Gates We Do Not Recommend

The one type of gate to avoid is the old-fashioned accordion-style “retractable” gate (here is an example). These are generally fastened to one side of a doorway with hardware, and then clipped onto the other doorway with a simple “hook and eye” latch. Anyone who has ever operated one of these can probably remember the pain they felt from getting a finger pinched as they carelessly folded it closed – or has a story to tell about the dog or cat who freaked out when they got their head stuck from trying to walk through one of the openings and had it tighten around their neck as they panicked. Don’t buy these!

These gates are attractive and retract nicely when not in use. Con: Not all dogs will respect a flexible barrier, and they take a lot of practice to open and close. Photo by CC Holland.

Another type of barrier that we don’t recommend is the retractable mesh gate. These are typically mounted with hardware on both sides of a doorway, but can be unclipped from one side to retract into a neat and unobtrusive roll on one side of the doorway when not in use. That’s cool!

What’s not so cool: They take either two hands or a ton of one-handed practice to close or open. Also, because they are not rigid, if a dog puts his paws on the top edge, it will bow or stretch the material, making the barrier less effective and less attractive over time.

How to Teach a Dog “Place”

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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If you show great interest and excitement about something, chances are, your dog will, too! Examine the seams of your new mat and exclaim with enthusiasm over the craftsmanship or the mat’s design. Your dog won’t be able to resist coming over to check it out! Mark and reward her interest by putting the mat on the ground and putting a delicious treat on the mat. Photos by Nancy Kerns

Once you’ve taught your dog a “Go to place” cue you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it! Imagine being able to gently ask your dog to “Mat,” “Bed,” “Place,” or whatever cue you chose to use, and have her willingly and promptly move to her designated spot and lie down. Move her away from the dinner table. Invite her to stop pestering your guest. Send her away from the door when packages are being delivered. Take her mat with you to a restaurant or friend’s house so she has a portable place to park. The applications are endless.

How to Teach Place

Start with a brand-new rug, bed, or blanket that will become her special “go to your place” mat. Then:

  1. Hold the mat and show interest in it until your dog shows interest in it.
  2. When your dog shows interest, use your marker (such as the click of a clicker or a verbal marker, like the word “Yes!”) and place a medium-value treat on the mat for her.
  3. Continue to mark and give a treat on the mat for any mat-related behaviors your dog offers.
    If your dog sniffs, touches, or gets on that mat, mark and immediately put a treat on the mat for her.
  4. If she lies down on the mat, mark and feed a high-value treat on the mat. Other On-The-Mat-Behaviors (OTMBs) get medium-value treats.
  5. Continue to mark any OTMBs, and randomly cue “Down.” When she lies down, mark and treat (with one or two high-value treats).
  6. After you’ve treated several Downs interspersed with other mat behaviors, pause to see if she offersa down. If she does, mark and feed several high-value treats. If not, continue marking any OTMBs, interspersing Downs with high-value treats for downs.
    If your dog spontaneously lies down on the mat, mark and give her a high-value treat or two. Continue to mark and give treats for other behaviors (sit, stand, turn around on) she does on the mat, but save the high-value treats for Downs.
  7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until your dog Downs when you pause. Any on-the-mat behavior is rewardable, but Downs get the best rewards. She should soon begin offering only downs.
  8. Now give a release cue, move away from the mat, and invite your dog to follow. When she does, stand quietly – no marking, treats, or praise. Most dogs will return to the mat for more treats. When she does, mark and treat again: medium-value for any behavior, high-value for Downs. Don’t wait for Downs; reinforce for returning to the mat.
  9. Repeat step 8. Each time you step away go farther away, so your dog learns to go to mat from greater distances. If she’s not lying down on the mat, randomly hold out for a Down.
    Release your dog and walk a few steps away. If she returns to the mat, mark and treat; if she offers a Down, mark and give her some high-value treats.
  10. When she quickly returns and lies down each time, increase the duration of the Down in small increments – a few seconds at a time.
  11. When she’ll go to her mat and lie quietly for an extended time, add your cue. Send her to her “Place” from increasingly longer distances, eventually from anywhere in the house.
    When your dog will readily go to her mat and lie down, you can add a cue, such as “Mat!” or “Place!” Now you can start taking the mat to new places to generalize the behavior, and begin introducing distractions (small ones at first).
  12. Finally, add distractions and generalize. Send her to her mat with kindergarten distractions, such as giving a little jump or a clap of your hands. Work up to advanced-level distractions, cueing her to go to her mat when kids are running through the house, food is being prepared, the doorbell rings or visitors enter, etc.

Depending on your dog and your commitment to training, you might accomplish mat training in just a few sessions. If you’re still working on basic good manners or your dog has impulse-control challenges it could take longer. In any case, you’ll be thrilled with this fantastic management tool.

Dental Chews for Dogs: Worth the Hype

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Most dental treats come in various sizes. Choose the correct one for your dog’s weight. Credit: Foley photo

Disclaimer: If you purchase items through links on our site we may earn a commission.

Dental chews really do help keep your dog’s teeth looking their best, so they are worth adding to your dog’s dental health care routine. Dental chews don’t replace brushing your dog’s teeth, but for dogs who don’t like you brushing their teeth, these chews help remove harmful plaque and calculus from your dog’s teeth.

Scientific studies show that giving your dog a dental chew every day can help:

  • Decrease plaque and calculus (tartar) buildup
  • Decrease gingivitis
  • Improve bad breath

But what dental chew should you pick out? A great place to start your search is the Veterinary Oral Health Council (vohc.org). Products that receive the VOHC seal have been shown in studies to help improve dental health.

Greenies Dental Treats and Dr. Lyon’s Grain-Free Dental Treats were also both included in a series of studies published in the Journal of Animal Science and helped the dogs have better teeth.

If your dog has any food sensitivities or allergies, check the ingredients before purchasing a product. For picky dogs, try a couple different chews to see what your pup likes.

How Dental Chews Work

Look for the official VOHC Seal on the product to be sure you’re making the best choice. Credit: Foley photo

You may be surprised that dental chews are often NOT the longest-lasting dog chews. Their dense texture is formulated to maximize the chew’s contact with your dog’s teeth. As the chew scrapes over the teeth, it removes plaque and calculus.

There is a downside to these chews, however: They are high in calories. If your dog battles a weight issue, discuss the use of chews with your veterinarian before starting them. For example, if you have a 10-lb. dog, his daily calorie allowance is around 248 (depending upon activity, current weight, and so on), according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. A small (teenie) Greenie dental chew is 28 calories, almost 10% of your dog’s daily allowance.

How to Clean Dog Teeth

For optimal dental health, tackle the problem from multiple angles.

  1. Start working on brushing your dog’s teeth every day, if you can, with an enzymatic toothpaste, like Virbac CET Enzymatic Toothpaste, or the VOHC-recommended toothpaste Petsmile, Whole Dog Journal’s No. 1 choice. Start by letting your dog lick the toothpaste off the brush, then gradually build up to brushing the entire mouth. This may take several weeks to months depending on your dog’s personality, but it is worth the effort.
  2. Feed a dental chew that has scientific evidence of efficacy each day.
  3. Have dental cleanings done under anesthesia as recommended by your veterinarian.

A note of caution: Never use human toothpastes that are designed to be used and then spit out. Your dog will swallow the product, and nearly all human toothpastes include ingredients that can be harmful or deadly to your dog.

Canine Influenza (Dog Flu)

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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A runny nose is one of the symptoms of canine influenza.
The green discharge from this puppy’s nose, and to a lesser extent, the clear discharge from her eyes, are signs of a severe case of canine influenza. While supportive home care will help most dogs recover from canine influenza, if she develops a high fever or has difficulty breathing, she needs to see a veterinarian as soon as possible. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Canine influenza is caused by viruses in the influenza A family. There are two viruses in this family that can cause canine influenza: H3N2 and H3N8. The H3N8 virus made a species jump from horses to dogs in the late 1990s or early 2000s. The H3N2 virus originated in birds and was first found to infect in dogs in 2005.

Neither strain of canine influenza has been found to infect humans. However, it is possible for dogs to transmit the H3N2 strain to cats. There have been no reports of cats transmitting the H3N2 strain to dogs or people.

Symptoms of canine influenza

The symptoms of canine influenza are similar to those of any other virus or bacteria that causes infectious tracheobronchitis (kennel cough). These symptoms include a dry, non-productive cough, low-grade fever, lethargy, lack of appetite, and clear discharge from the nose and sometimes the eyes. Coughing can persist for up to three weeks. In more severe cases, the cough may become moist and productive, the nasal secretions may be yellow or green, a high fever may develop, and difficulty breathing may be observed.

Canine flu vaccine

Most dogs who contract canine influenza have had contact with other infected dogs in an indoor environment, such as a kennel, dog show, or shelter. It is possible to contract canine influenza at an outdoor venue such as a dog park, but is less likely given the free circulation of fresh air in this type of environment. Photo by Nancy Kerns

There is a vaccine available for both the H3N2 and H3N8 strains of canine influenza. The initial dose is followed by a booster dose two to four weeks after the first vaccine is administered. The vaccine is boostered annually based on a dog’s risk of contracting canine influenza.

The canine influenza vaccine will minimize the risk of your dog contracting canine influenza. It is still possible for your dog to become sick with canine influenza even if your dog is vaccinated. But if your vaccinated dog contracts canine influenza, the vaccine will lessen the severity and duration of his illness.

Side effects of the canine influenza vaccine are similar to those seen with any other vaccine. There may be pain and swelling at the injection site. Your dog may feel a little off for 24 to 72 hours and may exhibit lethargy and disinterest in food. These signs typically resolve on their own in one to three days.

Other adverse effects are rare but may include facial swelling, hives, vomiting, or diarrhea. If you notice your dog exhibiting any of these signs, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Transmission of the canine influenza virus

Canine influenza is transmitted by coughing or sneezing, through contact with nasal secretions, and from contact with infected surfaces or clothing. The incubation period for canine influenza is one to five days. Most dogs show symptoms of canine influenza two to three days after exposure to the virus. This means that a dog could transmit canine influenza to other dogs before showing symptoms. The virus lives on surfaces and clothing for up to 24 to 48 hours and is easily inactivated by most household detergents and disinfectants.

Most dogs who contract canine influenza have had contact with other infected dogs in an indoor environment, such as a kennel, dog show, or shelter. It is possible to contract canine influenza at an outdoor venue such as a dog park, but is less likely given the free circulation of fresh air in this type of environment.

Unlike human influenza, canine influenza does not have a seasonal transmission. Dogs can contract canine influenza at any time of year. The disease has been reported in most states. There are persistent geographic hot spots and some areas where it is rarely seen, if at all. Areas where canine influenza has remained prevalent include New York City, Philadelphia, and areas of Colorado.

Diagnosing Dog Flu

Canine influenza can be diagnosed with either a PCR test or a blood test. The PCR test involves obtaining a swab sample from your dog’s nose or throat. The amount of virus shed in the nose and throat decreases with each day that your dog is sick with canine influenza, so it is possible to have canine influenza and test negative for it on this test.

The blood test looks for antibodies to canine influenza. If your dog has never been vaccinated for canine influenza and he has a high antibody level, then canine influenza is likely causing your dog’s symptoms. It is also possible to be negative on the antibody test for canine influenza and still have the disease. This is because some dogs take longer to produce antibodies when ill with canine influenza. If a second blood test two weeks later is positive for canine influenza antibodies, then that was likely the cause of your dog’s symptoms.

Caring for a dog with influenza

Most cases of canine influenza are mild and resolve on their own with supportive care at home. Supportive care may include enticing your dog to eat, making sure that fresh water is available at all times, rest, and keeping your dog away from other dogs until one week after his cough has resolved.

Complications from canine influenza

In rare circumstances, a dog with canine influenza may develop pneumonia. The canine influenza virus disrupts the lining of the respiratory tract and can allow bacteria to create a secondary infection, leading to the development of pneumonia. Dogs with pneumonia may need to be hospitalized and given intravenous fluids and antibiotics. Some dogs may also require supplemental oxygen to help them breathe. Dogs who do not require oxygen supplementation only need to be hospitalized until their fever breaks and they start eating. Dogs who require oxygen supplementation may need to be hospitalized for two or more days.

Death is rare with canine influenza, even in dogs who develop pneumonia. Dogs who die from canine influenza were typically seniors or have other underlying conditions that complicated their treatment.

Canine influenza can be prevented or minimized with vaccination. Talk to your veterinarian about your dog’s risk of contracting canine influenza and if he may benefit from receiving the canine influenza vaccine.

Appreciating Our Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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3
Boone now associates our older grandson with unpredictable adventures – and he’s there for it!
Boone now associates our older grandson with unpredictable adventures – and he’s there for it!

I was looking through my Google photo storage, trying to find a picture to go with an article about a veterinary topic for WDJ. I had to take Woody to an emergency veterinary clinic earlier this summer, to check for and remove a foxtail from his nose. I thought I’d use a photo of Woody from the clinic for the article, but I couldn’t remember the date of the incident offhand, so I was just scrolling backward in time through this summer’s photos.

As I scrolled, I found myself smiling over several photos. Many were pictures of my dogs interacting with other dogs or people or each other. My dogs are comfortable when socializing – and, as someone who once owned a dog-aggressive dog, I love that about them. I love knowing that I can take them almost anywhere and not worry that they are going to start something with anyone else’s dog. They are also extremely compatible with each other. I often hear complaints from friends whose dogs don’t get along and need to be kept separated sometimes (or all the time), and I count my lucky stars that my dogs don’t require this sort of management.

They don’t always share a bed, but they are happy to do so when the couches are full of humans.
They don’t always share a bed, but they are happy to do so when the couches are full of humans.

While Woody is my champion puppy-raiser, and can always be counted on to treat all puppies with patience and gentleness, no matter how pushy or needy those puppies are, I have to say I’m pretty impressed with Boone’s growing ability to tolerate puppy foolishness, too. When Boone was younger, he would mostly avoid any foster puppies that were around. His behavior and expression would resemble what you would expect of a teenaged boy when asked to look after a sticky, whiny toddler with a stinky diaper – “Ew! Gross! Get it away from me!” But as he has matured (he’s about a year and a half now), he will not only put up with the physical explorations of puppies upon his person, he now tries to engage them with toys and play. He’s not quite as careful as Woody, and sometimes he gets excited and his exuberance alarms pups, but he hasn’t hurt one with his roughhousing.

Woody is incredibly patient with puppies. Their explorations almost always seem to include a dental examination, which Woody never seems to mind.
Woody is incredibly patient with puppies. Their explorations almost always seem to include a dental examination, which Woody never seems to mind.

Their respective modes of playing with puppies is echoed in how they have coped with spending time with my grandsons, both the one who loves dogs and the one who doesn’t care that much about them. Woody is always glad to see the kids arrive, happy to jump on their beds to wake them in the morning, ride in the back seat with them, and accompany them wherever they go on our two-acre property. Boone isn’t quite as much of an ardent fan, but over the course of the summer, he grew more and more comfortable with the erratic movements of active boys and more anticipatory of the chaotic fun that might break out at any moment around them – enough so that he was effectively counter-conditioned to their presence. At the beginning of summer, he looked dismayed and apprehensive when a boy ran shouting through the house, wielded a stick like a sword, threw a football, or swung on the rope swing Boone had come to think of his own. But today, if a kid jumps up from the table for some spontaneous fun, Boone does, too – with a sparkle in his eye and a wagging tail. “Are we going to go outside? Do you want to play tag? Are we going to hunt for squirrels? Let’s do this!” he seems to say.

Our 7-year-old grandson loves dogs, and Woody adores him, too. He spent half of his vacation with us in physical contact with Woody.
Our 7-year-old grandson loves dogs, and Woody adores him, too. He spent half of his vacation with us in physical contact with Woody.

I frequently use my dogs as models. They are frequently asked to hold their positions in a solid “stay” or a patient “wait” while I take pictures of them. Sometimes it’s for an article for the magazine. Sometimes it’s because I think the photo I’m taking might be pretty enough or interesting enough for the next year’s WDJ calendar. Sometimes, they are just my muses, and I just enjoy seeing them through the lens of my camera or cell phone. I always “pay” them for their modeling work, so they are almost always willing to stand still for me as I change angles and f-stops, trying to get the light just right.

I took dozens of frames of this situation, trying to get the dogs posed just so, in order to get their legs to look right for my composition. They obviously don’t understand why I stop a hike to get so demanding, but they almost always cooperate.
I took dozens of frames of this situation, trying to get the dogs posed just so, in order to get their legs to look right for my composition. They obviously don’t understand why I stop a hike to get so demanding, but they almost always cooperate.

I don’t have a photo of this, but one of the things I appreciate most about my dogs is that they are comfortable staying in places without me. My husband and I did a lot of traveling this summer, spending long weekends at several out-of-town weddings and even longer and more numerous camping trips. Fortunately, my dogs love staying with my friend Leonora and her tiny dog Samson, and are equally comfortable staying at my sister Pam’s house, even though Pam’s three small dogs are possessive of Pam and of their voluminous array of toys. Dog-toy-envy aside, I don’t have to worry about my big dogs hurting any of their small friends or destroying anyone’s home. They are good houseguests! And thank goodness, or I wouldn’t be able to have as much fun or relax about their well being while traveling.

What do you especially appreciate about your dogs? Share what you love about them with the rest of us!

Tramadol for Dogs Side Effects

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Woman taking her dog for a walk on a forest path

While there is a limited study that refutes tramadol’s effectiveness for osteoarthritis, with severe cases, your veterinarian may still recommend it. Anecdotal evidence for its usefulness for severe pain is strong. Credit: AJ Watt | Getty Images

Tramadol is a popular medication for dogs with pain. It is used in dogs for osteoarthritic pain and in pre- and post-surgery as part of a pain-control regimen.

Tramadol is a synthetic opioid that is not FDA-approved for dogs, so it is used by veterinarians off-label. That means there have not been full studies on dosing, toxicity, and so on. Veterinarians prescribe it because there is a fair amount of anecdotal information regarding the use of tramadol in dogs available, and many studies are ongoing. The Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) classifies tramadol as a controlled substance.

Side Effects

Possible side effects appear conflicting, as you will see below, but this emphasizes how each dog is truly an individual and within a household, different dogs may have different experiences with this medication.

Key side effects for dogs taking tramadol include:

Neurologic symptoms

  • tremors
  • anxiety
  • dizziness

Gastrointestinal effects

  • vomiting
  • diarrhea
  • constipation

When to Avoid Tramadol

Tramadol is generally not recommended for use in dogs with liver, kidney, or seizure problems. It is metabolized via the liver, which is the reason for caution in liver patients.

Because tramadol can lead to increases in serotonin levels, it is important to avoid using it along with many antidepressants and drugs that are monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs). When these types of drugs are doubled up on, a dog may develop “serotonin syndrome” as a side effect. Symptoms can range from sedation to restlessness. Dogs may have muscle twitching, which can lead to hyperthermia. In severe cases, dogs can lose consciousness and even die.

Other drugs that can interact with tramadol include:

  • Warfarin (Coumadin)
  • SAMe (S-adenosyl-L-methionine
  • Cimetidine (Tagamet)
  • Digoxin (Digitalis)
  • Metoclopramide (Reglan)
  • Cyproheptadine (Periactin)

Always use tramadol under veterinary guidance. If your dog goes to a different clinic or an emergency clinic, make sure the veterinarian knows your dog is taking tramadol. Unlike many opioids, tramadol is not fully reversed by naloxone (Narcan).

What Is the DHPP Vaccine for Dogs?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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1
Veterinarians and vet hospitals stock different vaccines and combination vaccines. Ask your veterinarian which combination is used by your vet’s hospital, and which vaccines are recommended for your dog.

Vaccines play an important role in keeping your dog healthy and protected from certain infectious diseases. But there are myriad vaccine choices and not every vaccine is necessary to maintain your dog’s health. Vaccines should be selected based on your dog’s risk and overall health status.

The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) has published guidelines for feline and canine vaccines. Canine vaccines are divided into two categories: “core” and “non-core” vaccines. Core vaccines are considered necessary for most dogs, either because the diseases for which they provide protection are highly infectious and can be deadly, or because of public health concerns. Non-core vaccines are also called lifestyle vaccines; these are recommended based on your dog’s risk of exposure to specific infectious organisms.

Core Vaccines for Dogs

Core vaccines are essential for all dogs unless your dog has a health condition that precludes vaccination. There are only four core vaccines for dogs. These include vaccines for canine distemper, canine adenovirus-2 (CAV-2), canine parvovirus, and rabies.

The vaccines for canine distemper, CAV-2, and parvovirus are often combined into a single inoculation known as the distemper-adenovirus-parvovirus (DAP) vaccine. This combination vaccine is sometimes also known as the DHP vaccine, where the “H” stands for canine viral hepatitis. Canine viral hepatitis is caused by canine adenovirus-1 (CAV-1). The CAV-2 vaccine provides protection against the respiratory infectious agent CAV-2 and cross protection against the hepatitis agent CAV-1.

The rabies vaccine is available only as a single antigen and is not combined with any other vaccine.

Non-Core Vaccines for Dogs

Non-core immunizations for dogs include vaccines for canine parainfluenza virus, Bordetella bronchiseptica, leptospirosis, Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme), canine influenza (both H3N8 and H3N2), and Crotalus atrox (Western diamondback rattlesnake toxoid).

The vaccine for canine parainfluenza virus is non considered a core vaccine, but it’s often incorporated into combination vaccines with core vaccines. It’s available as part of the distemper-adenovirus-parvovirus-parainfluenza (DAPP or DHPP) vaccine. But it’s also available combined with the non-core vaccine for Bordetella bronchiseptica. Parainfluenza and Bordetella bronchiseptica are two of the causes of kennel cough. The vaccine for B. bronchiseptica is available by itself as a single vaccine whereas the vaccine for parainfluenza is only available as part of a combination vaccine.

The vaccine for leptospirosis is available by itself as a single vaccine or in combination with either the Borrelia burgdorferi vaccine or the DAP/DAPP vaccines. DAP or DAPP vaccines that contain the leptospirosis vaccine are known as DALP (DHLP) or DALPP (DHLPP) vaccines.

The canine influenza vaccine is not combined with any other vaccine. The vaccine for Crotalus atrox is also only available as a single agent vaccine.

One or more non-core vaccines may also be essential for your dog based on his risk, lifestyle, or geographical location. Talk to your veterinarian about which vaccines are right for your dog.

You Can Walk Two Dogs at Once

By
Linda Aloi
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3
Dog walking
Walking more than one dog at a time requires training the dog to walk on leash, not pull, and ignore distractions. Credit: Ideeone | Getty Images

Of course, you can walk two dogs at once, or, as I do, sometimes three. If you can’t walk two of your own dogs at the same time, it’s a training problem and, usually, the problem is distractions—things the dog(s) want, causing them to get excited and out of control. That can be trouble with two dogs on leash together. You can only walk two dogs at once if they know each other and are both calm and trained to walk on leash.

Twenty years ago, I learned that the hard way—trying to manage my three Shelties in a frenzy due to a passing car! I learned what happens when your dog isn’t taught to ignore distractions when asked to do so. And now, I always include this lesson in my basic classes. Just imagine walking two dogs at once when one sees a squirrel . . . Let’s begin.

Basics

First, you don’t need any special equipment. Here’s all you need:

  • A well-fitted collar or harness
  • A leash no longer than six feet (absolutely no retractable leashes)
  • Treats (lots of good ones)

Pulling is sometimes part of the issue when walking two dogs, or with one dog for that matter. If you have a puller, work on that before walking two dogs at once.

Start With One Dog

In this short piece, we are going to focus on distraction training and assume your dog knows how to walk quietly on a leash and other basic cues like sit, wait, and a release cue. If not, you need to read “Polite Leash Walking.”

For help with teaching your dog to disengage from things he finds distracting, see “Teach Your Dog to ‘Leave It’ Without a Cue.” Teaching your dogs, individually, to handle distractions and return their attention to you is worth every minute you can put into it. Do all these same training steps with your other dog, too. Take your time.

Putting Them Together

When your dogs have met your walking criteria individually, such as sitting on cue  or returning their attention to you even when something tantalizing is nearby, take them for a walk together in a quiet area. Practice away from traffic, then gradually introduce triggers and distractions. They should both sit on cue and be rewarded. Make the intensity of the triggers gradually more difficult.

Not successful? Go back to square one. (Someone once said, “Don’t complain, train!” But no one ever said it was easy.)

I can often be seen in the neighborhood pushing a stroller with my elderly Sheltie inside, and a couple of Goldens or Shelties trotting alongside. Folks are amazed that I can do this with my dogs. I tell them, “No magic here … just training.”

Download The Full September 2023 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
-
5
  • Care for Heat Stroke
  • Found a Stray Dog?
  • Boundary Training
  • Rope Toys are Dangerous
  • Worms and Deworming
  • Dental Extractions
  • Confidence-Building
  • Stuck in the Middle
  • Teach Your Dog to Heel
  • Best Dogs for Seniors
  • The Agony of Dog Feet
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Sand Flea Bites on Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
top view of a two-year-old girl and her chocolate Labrador retriever dog playing with the sand on the beach.
For the most part, your dog isn’t likely to be bothered by sand fleas, although digging in the sand could cause them to surface and bite. Credit: Rawlstock | Getty Images

After a fun day at the beach, you notice your dog is scratching and has small red spots that look like bites. It is possible, but unlikely, that sand fleas bites on the dog are the cause.

Sand fleas are small crustaceans, not insects like true fleas. They tend to come out on sandy beaches toward the evening, avoiding the hot sun. They vary in size from about a quarter of an inch to a full inch. However, unless you dig in the sand, you may not ever see them at a beach.

Sand Flea Bites at the Beach

Skin irritations like itchy bites or welts are more likely caused by biting sand flies or actual fleas, especially if your dog has explored vegetation near the beach where rabbits and other animals that might harbor fleas have been.

Sand fleas do jump like true fleas, but they prefer to eat seaweed, not blood. When they do bite a dog, they can cause a rash that appears to be many bites.

Treatment for Sand Flea Bites on Dogs

Treatment for irritation and bites from sand fleas is basic. Clean the area gently with water or a chlorhexidine solution. You can put an ice cube or ice pack on the red areas to reduce pain, itching, and inflammation.

Home remedies include aloe vera gel or a used tea bag held on the irritated skin. (Do not let your dog eat the tea!) Applying an apple cider vinegar and water solution (mix at 50-50) to wipe the area also may help with irritation and itching.

The biggest health concern with sand fleas is if your dog chews at his skin, destroying the natural protective barriers and leaving an opening for a secondary bacterial infection. Sand fleas also can cause tungiasis, a painful itchy condition where the flea bores into the dog’s paw pad (or human foot), but this is rarely seen in North America.

Keep your flea-and-tick repellent products up-to-date to help protect your dog.

How to Give Your Dog a Pill

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Man giving medicine to his old dog
Many dogs get clever and find new ways to resist taking medicine over time. Whether your dog needs to take pills for just a week or 10 days, or is on daily medication indefinitely, it helps to know several methods for administering the drugs. Photo by Chalabala/500px, Getty Images

Convincing a dog to swallow pills that smell suspicious, taste bitter, and feel unpleasant can be a challenge. Forcing a dog to swallow a pill can result in a bite or disrupt a human-canine relationship. What’s the best approach?

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  1. Hiding the medicine in food. Of course, you have to use the right food – and there are some tricks to hiding it convincingly.
  2. Use pill pockets. You can use the commercial products (such as these from Greenies), or you can make them from scratch yourself.
  3. Try a “pill gun” – a device that makes it easier to get the pill past your dog’s teeth and released into the very back of his mouth, where it will be more difficult to avoid swallowing it.
  4. Ask your veterinarian’s staff to demonstrate their technique, so you can give that a try.

Best Foods for Hiding Medications 

Some of the most effective pill-hiding foods are:

  • Soft cheese, goat cheese, or cream cheese
  • Raw or cooked ground beef or other meat
  • Hot dog pieces
  • Soft spreads like liverwurst
  • Nut butters
  • Pureed pumpkin
  • Mashed strongly flavored fish like sardines or mackerel

If using a prepared food, check its label to be sure it doesn’t contain ingredients that are toxic to dogs such as onions or xylitol.

How to Effectively Hide Pills in Food

  • Pack the cheese, meat, or other treat around the pill, but not while your dog is watching. Create a morsel large enough to surround the pill but small enough for your dog to swallow whole. Biting into a bitter-tasting pill can ruin your dog’s attachment to any treat, even a favorite.
  • Another strategy is to learn whether a pill can be crushed without harming its medicinal properties. If so, try crushing it in a plastic bag with a rolling pin or hammer, then mix the powdered bits into canned or pureed wet food.
  • Wash your hands after handling the medication. Dogs’ noses are so sensitive, your pup will recognize the medication’s fragrance if you don’t.

Tricks for Getting Your Dog to Eat the Hidden Medicines

  • Pretend to eat the medicated treat yourself. Everything you eat is of interest to your dog and he’ll want some, too.
  • If you have another dog, set up a rewards session and feed treats to both of them. Most dogs eat everything faster when there’s potential competition.
  • Give your dog five treats in quick succession with the treat that holds the pill somewhere in the middle. Your dog won’t have time to do anything but swallow the next treat.
  • If you use pill pockets, offer one from time to time that contains only a special treat with no pills. This will make pill pockets less suspicious.
  • Administer pills immediately before a fun activity like going for a walk, running in the yard, or playing an indoor game. Soon your dog will associate medication time with play time.

Try pill pockets

These hollow treats are designed to hold tablets or capsules. One popular brand is Greenies Pill Pockets, which come in four flavors (chicken, cheese, hickory smoke, and peanut butter).

For pockets with minimal ingredients, try making your own by mixing 1/4 cup water, milk, or bone broth with 1/4 cup peanut or almond butter (made without salt or sugar) and 1/2 cup wheat or gluten-free flour. Roll 1/2 teaspoon dough into balls and use the round tip of a wooden spoon or chopstick to form a pill-sized indentation in each ball. Refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 6 months.

Pill Poppers or Pill Guns

To give your dog a pill without food, try a pill popper or pill gun. Available from vet clinics and pet supply stores, this syringe-like tool drops a tablet or capsule through a tube into your dog’s mouth. See the Lxnoap Pet Pill Gun at Amazon and other suppliers. Load it with a pill, gently open your dog’s mouth, and drop the pill at the back of the throat. Follow with a small amount of water and massage your dog’s throat to encourage her swallowing reflex. Then check her mouth to be sure it’s gone as some dogs are clever about hiding pills and then spitting them out when no one’s looking.

When All Else Fails…

If your dog is still resisting, ask your veterinarian for help. Vet techs are pilling experts and can give you a detailed demonstration, or your vet may be able to supply the medication in a different form, such as liquid or flavored, that is easier to administer.

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