Itching is the number one symptom of allergies in dogs. If your dog has seasonal allergies, think ahead and take action before she starts destroying her skin in a vain effort to relieve the itch! Photo by photo-vista.de, Getty Images
My dog Otto (now resting in peace) used to get a flare-up of allergies every spring. His body knew before any human in our area was aware when the first plants in our area started flowering and producing pollen. It would start with mild scratching – a distracted, half-aware scratching of his tummy with a hind paw as he stood and gazed off in the middle distance. But within a week of the first appearance of that behavior, I’d catch him chewing at his flank in earnest, and I would start taking the steps I’d take every year to reduce his exposure to the pollen that started blowing around and covering our cars, lawn, and decks: limiting his time outside, rinsing his feet and ankles with a hose and wiping his coat with a damp microfiber cloth when he came in from his daily constitutional around our property, putting a clean sheet over his dog bed every day, and increasing my vacuuming and mopping the floors in the house.
I’d also put a note on my wall calendar, indicating when I first noticed him scratching. I stored the old calendars on a shelf for years after each year passed – so I was able to prove that it was always in early March when I first saw Otto starting to react to higher pollen counts. (By the way, a hard-copy calendar that’s dedicated to just your dogs is a GREAT way to keep track of any symptoms your dog may experience throughout the year – and WDJ’s 2024 calendar is dedicated to the memory of Otto. I’m just sayin’. The calendars are available for purchase here.)
However, spring is not the only season that triggers environmental allergies in dogs. Some dogs are unaffected by tree or grass pollen, but suffer mightily from mold or fungal spores, and it’s these that I suspect my sister’s mostly white wire-coated Jack Russell-mix is affected by each fall. Daisy just started rubbing her itchy body raw, and my sister just asked me if I would make a veterinary appointment for her. (A prescription for Apoquel has been a life-saver for the pink-skinned little dog each fall for the past few years.) The temperatures have been sinking, there is more moisture in the air, and mushrooms and other fungi have started sprouting in the woods – and likely in the shady, irrigated parts of my sister’s yard, too.
But, judging from the only available appointments I could get at any of the three veterinary hospitals I have relationships with, my sister’s dog is not the only one who suffers from fall allergies; not one of the three has an available, non-emergency appointment within the next month!
Here’s another use for those calendars: If you know your dog has had the same health problem at the same time of year more than once, make yourself a note on your next year’s calendar about a month prior to the anniversary of your dog’s last episode, reminding you to make a veterinary appointment close to the time you might expect another episode. If my sister had a vet appointment scheduled for early September each year, she could avoid having to watch Daisy itch and scratch and rub for a month while waiting for her after-the-fact appointment and administering the usual not-very effective Band-Aids: lots of baths and wipe-downs, Benadryl, topical treatments, and perhaps a cone or cone alternative.
Keeping suds out of your dog’s eyes and ears and using the best puppy shampoo are key to a successful, safe bath. Credit: alexsokolov | Getty Images
If you’re battling fleas with your puppy, check the label on any product before using it on your puppy, as many of them are not safe for young puppies under 12 weeks old – especially if they’re small-breed puppies. Check with your veterinarian because you are also going to need flea-control protocols. One bath will not end flea infestation.
The best flea shampoo for most puppies under 12 weeks old is Dawn dish soap, as it is safe for most dogs and will kill adult fleas on their body. It doesn’t repel fleas though, so you will need other flea control measures to remove the fleas from your house and bedding. Remember, though, dishwashing soap is not pH formulated for use on a dog’s skin, and it can dry their skin. Only use dishwashing soap in urgent situations.
You need to be able to keep the suds out of your puppy’s eyes, ears, nose, and mouth.
Dog skin and human skin are not the same, so using a shampoo made for dogs is ideal to prevent drying out your puppy’s skin.
Most puppies will do just fine with any dog shampoo, so don’t hesitate to grab a bottle from your pet-supply store. For puppies with sensitive skin, an oatmeal shampoo is great to soothe and moisturize. Everyone has an opinion, but one of my favorites is Burt’s Bees for Dogs Oatmeal Shampoo, and I have used it on dogs of all ages.
If your dog will be competing in conformation when she grows up, you may want to switch to a shampoo specifically formulated for her coat type when she is an adult. A fabulous line of high-end dog shampoos and conditioners is the #1 All Systems. My dogs have a harsh coat texture, so I use the #1 All Systems Crisp Coat before shows.
Best “Emergency” Shampoo
Puppy covered in poop and no time to run to the store? Don’t worry. Dawn dish soap is safe for most dogs and will get your puppy back to clean.
When buying a herding ball for unstructured play, buy a size that is too large for your dog to hold in his jaws. The fact that he can’t pick it up will drive him to push it instead. It took Boone only a second to figure that out. His favorite is the 10-inch Indestructible Ball from ht-pet.com; I haven’t allowed him to play with the 6-inch version. Photo by Nancy Kerns
A herding ball is a large, sturdy ball that is designed to be pushed around – not picked up – by a dog. Herding balls are not meant to be fetched, though there is a sport that rewards a dog’s ability to intentionally direct the ball toward you, or into a goal, on your cue. Dogs may use pressure against the ball with their noses, mouths, paws, and/or legs to send the balls rolling across a field at top speed, or by using their shoulders or hips to body the balls around turns, through gates, or into a soccer-net type of goal. The activity can be fantastic fun for athletic, energetic dogs.
However, you may not be able to accurately predict whether your dog will enjoy a herding ball; I couldn’t! It turns out that Woody, my fetch-obsessed Pit/Lab-mix, could not care less about balls that are too big to pick up and carry in his mouth.
The moment Boone touched a hard plastic herding ball and realized he couldn’t pick it up in his mouth, he grabbed at it in playful frustration. The harder he tried to pick it up, the faster it rolled away from him, which prompted him to chase it. And the faster and more wildly it rolled, the more ways he found to push it – with his nose, his open mouth, his chest, and the front of his legs. In contrast, when my other dog touches these balls and learns that they can’t be picked up in his mouth, he immediately and completely loses interest in them. What will your dog make of them?! Photo by Nancy Kerns
In contrast, Boone, my fuzz-faced mutt who fetches only in order to run away with the fetch item, hoping that someone will chase him – that dog developed new life goals within a millisecond of coming in contact with a herding ball. (He aspires to set land-speed records for ball herding and ball-herding obstacle courses.)
What’s even more extreme than “obsessed”? That’s Boone and herding balls – and you know how it is when someone you love immerses himself completely in a new hobby? – you get some real enjoyment from indulging their newfound passion. I’ve been buying all sorts of herding balls for Boone to try out, and together we’ve developed some strong opinions about these toys.
Here’s what I’ve learned about herding balls over the past month of spoiling Boone with a wide variety of the toys:
How are herding balls made?
Boone stands between a 34-inch and an 18-inch exercise ball (an 8-inch ball is in front of him). Boone is about 24 inches tall at the shoulder; if he were competing in Treibball (a herding ball sport), he’d play with the biggest ball here. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Herding balls are made with a variety of materials – and it’s likely that your dog will strongly prefer some materials to others. Some herding balls are made with hard, impervious plastics, in order to make it impossible for a dog to pick up the ball in his mouth (herding balls are meant to be pushed, not carried!). But even different types of hard plastics have a different feel – a slightly different hardness, if that makes sense. Out of two top-selling hard plastic herding balls, Boone has developed a passion for one ball and utter disdain for the other; go figure. You can guess what your dog might like most, but you’ll probably have to try a few to find out.
Hard plastic herding balls are not inflated; they are molded in a globe shape that cannot be compressed. They roll faster than balls made of other materials. They are highly resistant to damage from the dog’s teeth and claws (and crashing into brick walls and sidewalk edges), though the softer hard plastic can develop gouges and micro-ridges that are sharp enough to cut a dog’s nose, lips, or tongue as he pushes it at speed. I’ve occasionally had to use sandpaper to smooth the surface of Boone’s favorite.
This is a 6-inch Virtually Indestructible Ball with 5lb. Samson. As small as this ball is, it’s hard! The kind of tough herding balls that are ideal for larger dogs who like to herd are not particularly safe for tiny dogs.
Other herding balls are made with a thick, dense material that has a rubbery feel. Like the hard plastic balls, these balls are not inflated, but they can be grabbed, picked up, and compressed by a big dog with a strong jaw; fortunately, they pop back into a globe shape immediately upon being dropped.
These balls don’t roll as quickly as the harder balls, but neither do they develop the kind of scratches and gouges that the hard plastic balls do. If a big dog who aggressively chews toys was left alone with one of these balls, it could get chewed up.
The last type of ball is the only one used by dogs in herding-ball sports, though they are not made for this purpose. Rather, they are the kind of large, soft, inflatable balls that are used for human exercise and yoga. Some dogs enjoy pushing these bouncy, slightly yielding balls to the exclusion of all others – and some dogs can’t resist biting (and popping) them. I’m looking at you, Boone!
How big are herding balls?
This is the Boomer Ball from Company of Animals. It’s made of “virtually indestructible” polyethylene. These balls are highly scratch-resistant – but the hardness made them less appealing to our canine tester (your dog may have a different preference)
Herding balls are made in a variety of sizes – and the size of the ball affects how safe it is for your dog to play with. In the sport of Treibball, where dogs push soft exercise balls toward their handlers on cue, care is taken so that the balls used do not measure less than 5 centimeters (about 2 inches) below the dog’s shoulder, in order to prevent injuries. It’s thought that dogs are subject to far more injuries when they are bending low to push the balls.
However, the balls that I give to my dog for unstructured play are nowhere near that size – and, as I watch Boone careen all over my property in wild pursuit of the ball, I can see how the activity could lead to injury. Chasing the small herding balls definitely poses a risk of injury to dogs like Boone; you will have to decide whether the fun and exercise is worth the risk for your dog.
I’m not sure I would want a very small dog to play with any of the hard balls, no matter what size. If even a very small hard ball bounced and hit my friend’s 5-lb dog Samson, I think he’d get hurt.
Rewarding fun
This is the Bounce-N-Play ball from Jolly Balls. It’s made of a material that feels like a cross between dense foam and rubber. Dogs can puncture this material, but the ball pops back into shape afterward.
If you have a sturdy and energetic dog who likes to chase things and play with toys – particularly, if you have a dog who is a herding breed or a herding breed-mix, consider buying him or her a herding ball for recreation and exercise. Bringing my dog and one of these balls to a large, grassy sports field is now our favorite thing to do.
In fact, Boone is having so much fun with these toys that I am now using play time with one as a reward for his quick compliance with other cues. When he’s barking at a passerby at the far end of my two-acre property, nothing gets him back to me faster than the words, “Hey Boone! Where’s your ball?!”
Material Type
Product Maker / Name Maker’s Website
Price
Sizes/Colors
Notes
Hardest plastic
Boomer Ball
Company of Animals
Broomfield, CO Amazon.com
Made in China of “virtually indestructible” polyethylene. These balls are highly scratch-resistant – but the hardness made them less appealing to our canine tester (your dog may have a different preference).
Hard but not impervious plastic
Virtually Indestructible Ball
HT pet
Bellevue, OH ht-pet.com
Made in USA of a hard but unnamed plastic. These balls do scratch and need occasional sanding to remove sharp ridges that can develop from biting and rough play. Boone has been playing with the 10-inch ball for a month solid; this is his absolute favorite toy.
Made in USA. 10-inch and 14-inch sizes are made with a plug that allows you to fill the ball with sand or water, to make it heavier and harder to push. These, too, are made with a hard but not scratch-resistant plastic. Maker notes, “Excessive use may cause tooth wear” (that’s wear on the dog’s teeth!).
Made in the USA of a material that feels like a cross between dense foam and rubber; the maker says it’s recyclable. Dogs can puncture this material, but the ball pops back into shape afterward.
Thin, flexible, rubbery material
Exercise Balls
Made/sold by countless companies
$20 to $85
Any number of sizes (about 20" to 38"). Any number of colors
When buying, look for product claims that the ball is made in a way that is “burst resistant if punctured” and “deflates slowly.” One we bought (Trideer Extra Thick Yoga Ball/Exercise Ball) made those claims, and while it popped/tore more easily than we thought it would, it didn’t explode or scare the dog when he bit and punctured it.
I’m not sure exactly what started it, but it seems that there is a big public fight about dog training currently being fought in the digital ether. On one side we have Team Sometimes You Have to Use Force, and on the other we have Team No You Absolutely Do Not. Unfortunately, as with so many of the divisive matters of today, I’m not sure that any of the arguments are going to cause any miraculous changes of hearts or minds.
I’m firmly in the camp of Team No You Absolutely Do Not – but I don’t want to fall into the same trap as many of my friends, trying to talk about the rationale for my membership on Team NYADN. The best way to change someone’s mind, I think, is to see a master animal trainer at work with a species of animal that you can’t use force, fear, or pain with.
Over the years, attending various dog-training conferences, I’ve been lucky enough to see people train goldfish to dunk tiny underwater basketballs through tiny underwater basketball hoops on cue; try that with a shock collar! I’ve seen trainers who taught a wide-awake, unanesthetized hippo with an abscessed tooth to hold her mouth open wide on cue so that a veterinary dentist could drill and fill the tooth; she did it in exchange for bits of melon. I met a trainer who taught a completely unrestrained elephant in a state of musth – a condition in male elephants characterized by aggressive behavior due to a periodic rise in reproductive hormones – to blow bubbles in a bucket of antiseptic, thus self-treating a deep and painful wound in his trunk. Apples provided the incentive for his veterinary-care parlor trick.
And, of course, I’ve seen many trainers and veterinary behaviorists who specialize in treating canine aggression work with those dogs without ever causing the dog to behave in an aggressive manner. It takes skill, patience, and a whole lot of treats, but when you see it happen for yourself, it’s so moving. When you see a wary, reactive dog learn the basic precepts of communication with a handler, gain trust that he won’t be hurt or forced into a situation he can’t handle calmly, and transform into a soft, relaxed dog who can make socially acceptable choices in response to situations or humans or dogs who scare him – well, suffice to say that if you endeavor to see such a trainer work with such a dog, I feel certain that I will see you at future Team NYADN meetings. I’ll be eager to share how much more we can accomplish with dogs without force or fear.
Some dogs nip when they get over-excited or frustrated in play. Consistently stopping the game (and putting any toys away) or redirecting the dog into a less intense activity, preferably when the dog is showing signs of getting frantic or overaroused, will help him learn that nipping always ends the fun. Photo by M and M Inc, Getty Images
What can you do about an adult dog who’s nipping? The answer depends on why he’s doing it. Each situation should be addressed differently – and none should be addressed with verbal or physical punishment.
Fear-Related Nipping
This is the most concerning of the nipping behaviors, most likely to escalate into significant aggression if not handled appropriately. This will likely involve a counter conditioning and desensitization protocol, and you might do best to utilize the services of a qualified, experienced force-free professional.
For fear-related nipping of visitors (or household members), management is your critically important first step. Keep your dog leashed or safely stashed in another room when human triggers are present, unless and until you implement a thorough behavior modification program to convince him that people don’t need to be feared.
Nipping in Excitement
Just because your dog is playing doesn’t make these nips any less painful. There are several things you can for this behavior:
Increase your dog’s mental and physical exercise so he doesn’t get so exuberant in play. Note that physical exercise should include impulse control games, like sit-and-wait-politely until you throw the ball or toy.
Teach an incompatible behavior such as “Go to Mat.”
Use “negative punishment” (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) by saying a cheerful “Oops!” and turning your back or stepping to the other side of a baby gate when he starts jumping and nipping, then marking calm behavior (with the click of a clicker, a hand signal such as a thumbs-up, or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and giving him a treat when he is calm. You can practice this with your dog tethered to keep yourself safe as well.
Nipping in Annoyance
If your dog nips in an effort to make you stop doing something, just stop! If they are things that must be done, such as nail-trimming and grooming, use cooperative care procedures to help him get happier about them.
Herding Dogs Who Nip
These dogs have a very strong genetic propensity to nip at things that move because they’re supposed to!
You can manage this behavior with a “Search” behavior – tossing treats away from you to occupy your dog’s teeth with things other than your skin or use a “Go to Mat” behavior as described above. You can ask him to target to strategically placed target objects around your property. Perhaps the best solution is to engage him in herding activities where he has an outlet for his herding behavior and will learn additional control cues – either actual herding with sheep, ducks, or cows, or the sport of Treibball.
Yes, nipping is annoying, but you can teach your dog more appropriate behaviors. Figure out what his motivation is for nipping, implement appropriate management and modification measures, and your dog can learn to keep his teeth to himself.
Librela is the first monoclonal antibody the FDA has approved for use in dogs. The active ingredient in the drug binds to and inhibits the biological activity of a protein called canine nerve growth factor, which has been found to be elevated in dogs with osteoarthritis and is involved in the regulation of pain. This therapy could vastly improve the lives of dogs who don’t experience adequate pain relief from NSAIDs. Photo by cynoclub, Getty Images
A new treatment for managing osteoarthritis pain was recently approved by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration. Librela is a once-monthly injection administered by your dog’s vet. The target release date – when it will become available to veterinarians – is November 2023.
Librela is a monoclonal antibody that binds to nerve growth factor (NGF), part of the pain-signaling pathway in osteoarthritis. Binding to NGF prevents the pain signal from being transmitted to the brain.
Librela has been used in Europe for more than two years, with good success in managing canine osteoarthritis pain. The dogs’ pain assessment scores significantly decreased after two injections of Librela given 28 days apart. Their pain continued to be well-managed with monthly injections.
A feline version called Solensia has been available in the U.S. since January 2022. Many cat owners (including me!) have seen significant improvement in their cats’ mobility and overall comfort since starting Solensia.
There is no minimum weight requirement for Librela, so it can be used in dogs of any size. Dogs should be at least 1 year of age before starting Librela. Librela has not been studied with the concurrent use of NSAIDs.
Librela is labeled for use only in managing osteoarthritis pain of the limb joints, such as hips, stifles (knees), shoulders, and elbows. It has not been studied in managing osteoarthritis pain of the spine.
The most common side effects of Librela include urinary tract infection, bacterial skin infections, and dermatitis at the injection site. Some dogs experienced a rise in blood urea nitrogen (BUN), one of the markers for possible kidney disease on a blood chemistry panel. However, there were no other indications that Librela caused renal damage. Your veterinarian may want to complete baseline bloodwork before starting
Librela may be an effective part of a multi-modal approach to treating osteoarthritis. Ask your veterinarian if Librela may help manage your dog’s osteoarthritis pain.
Our natural reaction to the sight of our dog or puppy with a dangerous or valuable item in his mouth is to react strongly and yell or chase him, but these are both counter-productive choices. Photo by Sansargo, Getty Images
Puppies use their mouths to explore their worlds. This means that your puppy may trot into the room with something in her mouth that you don’t want to her have. Maybe it’s valuable, like your brand new AirPods. Maybe it’s precious, like your son’s favorite stuffed bear. Or maybe it’s dangerous, like a bottle of prescription meds. Whatever it is, how should you get your puppy to drop it? Knowing how to teach a puppy to “drop it,” can keep both your possessions and your puppy safe.
It’s counter-intuitive, but if you have not yet taught your dog to “trade” or “drop it,” the best way to get the item back immediately is to give it zero attention. If there’s anything more enticing to a dog than a new thing, it’s a new thing that somebody else wants really badly! (Don’t believe me? Watch a dog suddenly care about that stupid old bone they’ve never ever chewed until the neighbor’s dog comes over and picks it up.)
The second you see a forbidden item in your puppy’s mouth, spring into action . . . elsewhere! Make your puppy suddenly think that the item is worthless because 1) you aren’t paying attention to it, and 2) you seem to be doing something else that’s really exciting. Humans aren’t the only ones who experience FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out).
Leap up. Skip to the kitchen singing the, “I’m getting out the ham” song. Be goofy. This alone (provided it doesn’t happen all the time) can be enough to startle your dog into dropping the item.
If that happens, do not run back to the scene of the crime, grab the item, and give a big lecture about how he’s never to do this again. You will have undone all your good work! Instead, prove to your dog that it always pays to see what you’re up to when you’re acting goofy: Give him that ham you grabbed from the fridge. Ask for some sits and spins and downs, and reward with that ham. Then do a kibble scatter on the floor so it’ll take him a little while to clean up, and then slip out to quietly grab the item and put it up high. Phew! Done.
Another option is to make a treat trail. Make a little path of ham bits starting right at your puppy’s feet and heading away from the item. (You can’t eat ham and maintain possession of the prescription sunglasses.)
Offering up a special tug toy might do the trick for your tug-obsessed dog. Or, if your dog is in love with a neighbor’s dog, it might work to announce an immediate trip next door for a play session. Your knowledge of your dog will help you figure out what will create the FOMO elsewhere that will make him drop the item.
What Not to Do
Maybe the approach above strikes you as silly, when you are inclined to choose a more direct or even stern approach. Before you do that, be aware that the strategy you use might spell the difference between a dog who constantly looks for “bad” things to pick up in her mouth, and one who never develops that habit. The wrong response to a dog who loves to pick up stuff could very well promote the development of resource-guarding behaviors – a bigger problem than losing a few items to chewing. Serious resource guarding calls for help from an experienced force-free trainer.
Many people instinctively try the yell-and-grab method, chasing down the pup and physically extracting the item from the puppy’s mouth. After all, every second counts when it comes to either damage inflicted to the item or danger to the pup from ingestion.
But is the yell-and-grab really the fastest, safest way to retrieve the item? Nope. Even if it works in this particular moment, you’ve set yourself up for trouble. Here are some likely unintended and unpleasant outcomes of this approach:
Seeing your approach, puppy knows she has just seconds to work with, so she gobbles quickly instead of just playing with the item. Now that chicken bone she found under the bush in the park is down her throat. What did pup learn? Nothing, but you’ve now got a big vet bill.
The pup is delighted with her newfound attention. Pup runs and scampers, staying just out of reach, having a blast! What did pup learn? “To have a super happy time with Mom, just grab something that’s not a puppy toy!”
The pup is scared of your shockingly big mad voice and fast movement, so she runs and hides under the couch. It takes a long time to get her (and the item) out. What did pup learn? “Don’t ever trust Dad; he’s unpredictable!”
The pup begins to realize that you are constantly trying to steal her special treasures, so she goes on the offense, growling and snapping. What has she learned? “These people take all the good stuff, so be ready to fend them off.” This last one is serious; you may find out too late that you have inadvertently contributed to the creation of a resource-guarder; you’ll need a good force-free trainer to help deal with this.
Using a Cue for “Drop it”
If you have invested time in teaching your puppy that giving something up to you will pay off for her, then you’re all set for this key moment. You can calmly use the cue you’ve taught (either “drop it” or “trade”), your pup will relinquish the item and receive a reward, and you’ll be on your way.
Sometimes people hear the description of the skip-and-sing approach and say, “Come on! My puppy grabs stuff all day long! I can’t do this whole shebang every time!”
It’s quiz time! What is wrong with the sentence, “My puppy grabs stuff all day long?”
You get an A+ if you answered: “Any self-respecting new puppy will grab anything interesting in his path, especially when bored. It is up to the people who took him from Planet Dog to create a safe environment for him here on Planet Human. That means gates and crates, careful supervision, plenty of exercise, and puppy-appropriate enrichment.”
If your pet is suffering from diarrhea, your first step should be to ask your veterinarian to help you rule out illness or a parasite infection. If these causes have been eliminated, adding dietary fiber to your dog’s diet may help normalize his stool. Photo by harpazo_hope, Getty Images
Dogs cannot digest dietary fiber; as they lack the digestive enzymes needed to break the chemical bonds present in these compounds. Nevertheless, when fed at the proper quantity in the form of a good dietary source of fiber or a fiber supplement, this indigestible material can have a positive impact on your dog’s microbiome, gut health, and stool quality. Dietary fiber can:
Slow gastric emptying (helpful for dogs suffering from loose stools or diarrhea)
Add bulk to the diet of a dog who needs to lose weight
Provide benefits that selectively favor the growth and/or activity of the gut’s native beneficial bacteria species, which in turn:
produce short chain fatty acids, which
help maintain intestinal electrolyte and fluid balance
inhibit the growth of pathogenic microbes
provide an energy source for intestinal cell function and replication
There are two types of dietary fiber, fermentable fiber (also known as soluble fiber) and nonfermentable fiber (also known as insoluble fiber).
Fermentable fiber
Fermentable fiber cannot be broken down by the dog and passes through the small intestine largely unchanged by digestion. When fermentable fiber reaches the large intestine, the bacteria that reside therein chemically breaks it down and uses it as a food source. These bacteria produce short chain fatty acids, which are the preferred form of energy for our pet’s colon cells. These short chain fatty acids are absorbed by the intestines and help to promote a healthy gut by providing an energy source for cellular function and replication.1
Short chain fatty acids also help to prevent diarrhea in dogs by maintaining intestinal electrolyte and fluid balance, enhancing the absorption of sodium, promoting the growth of beneficial intestinal microflora, and inhibiting the growth of pathogenic microbes. Dogs who consume diets containing fermentable fiber have increased colon weights and increased intestinal surface area compared to dogs fed diets containing nonfermentable fiber. The result? Dogs fed a diet containing fermentable fibers have greater potential for water absorption than those not fed fermentable fibers.2
The major sources of fermentable fiber used in commercial canine diets include cereal grains, legumes, and other plant ingredients such as beet pulp and rice bran. These soluble fibers also have the capacity for binding to water, which can increase the viscosity of the intestinal contents, slowing gastric emptying. This is especially helpful for dogs suffering from loose stools or diarrhea, as these soluble fibers in the diet can help bind the excess water present in the intestines.1
Some fermentable fibers also act as prebiotics – food ingredients that provide benefits by selectively favoring the growth and/or activity of the native beneficial bacteria species (such as Bifidobacterium and lactobacilli) that reside within the colon of the host animal. Prebiotics impact the gut microbiome by acting as a food source for these beneficial bacterial colonies within the dog’s intestinal tract.1
Providing prebiotic fiber in conjunction with probiotics (beneficial bacterial species fed to the dog in the form of dietary supplements) helps to ensure that the beneficial bacteria you are supplementing your pet with have everything they need to thrive. Inulin is commonly used as a prebiotic fiber supplement in diets and is typically sourced from chicory root. Other varieties of prebiotics can be found naturally in ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, grains, psyllium, and sugar beet root.1,2
While fermentable fiber is an important factor for the maintenance of gut health in your dog, the amount and type of fermentable fiber should be considered, as large amounts have the potential to cause digestive upset. One of the byproducts of bacterial fermentation is gas, meaning that too much highly fermentable fiber can be the cause of flatulence and stomach discomfort. Because of this, moderately fermentable fibers, such as beet pulp or rice bran, are preferrable to highly fermentable fibers like pectin and guar gum. Other fibers, such as cellulose, locust bean gum, and xanthium gum, have very low fermentability and are less likely to cause excess gas production but are also less effective for the production of short chain fatty acids.2
Nonfermentable or insoluble fiber
Nonfermentable carbohydrates, or insoluble fiber, is comprised of the non-digestible components of plants (such as cellulose) that are not easily fermented by intestinal microbiota. This type of fiber is also termed bulk fiber, as it helps with stool bulking when added to the diet. This type of fiber is especially useful when considering foods for dogs who are overweight or who gain weight easily, as insoluble fiber provides bulk to the diet without adding calories. Insoluble fiber also helps to normalize intestinal transit rate and can help bind water and toxins in the intestinal tract.
Sources of insoluble fiber include beet pulp, fruit and vegetable pomaces, bran, and cellulose.1
Adding fiber to your dog’s diet
There are many options available to owners who would like to increase the fiber content of their dog’s diets – most typically, in an effort to control a dog’s chronic diarrhea or constipation. You can purchase commercial supplements and treats that provide your pet with additional dietary fiber. For pre-biotic supplementation, look for products containing inulin. While you can add a variety of raw plant ingredients to the diet to add bulk fiber to the diet, many dogs find these to be unpalatable, leading people to search for tastier alternatives.
Many fiber sources contain both fermentable and nonfermentable fibers, providing the benefits of both. Remember that many commercial foods already contain fiber, so be careful not to over supplement, as too much fiber can cause diarrhea or constipation in dogs whose stools are healthy. Additionally, any supplementation of fiber should be done gradually to allow your dog’s digestive system time to adjust. If you have any questions or concerns regarding supplementing your dog’s diet with fiber, be sure to consult your veterinarian.
References:
Nutrient requirements of dogs and cats. (2018). The National Academies Press.
Case, L. P., Daristotle, L., Hayek, M. G., & Raasch, M. F. (2011).Canine and Feline Nutrition: A resource for companion animal professionals. Mosby.
Chondrodystrophy can be a non-issue for most dogs. Short-legged dog like this beautiful Corgi lead active lives, including in dog sports like herding and agility. Credit: Dmitriy Kostylev | Getty Images
As cute as dogs with short legs are, their look is the result of a cartilage disorder called chondrodystrophy. This disorder is caused by genetic mutations that produce the desired short legs. Breeders purposely selected dogs with short legs and long bodies for breeding, passing down the short-legged deformity to future generations. Chondrodystrophy can be a non-issue for some dogs, but it can also result in IVDD (more on that below).
Affected breeds include:
Dachshund
Bassett Hound
Welsh Corgi (both Pembroke and Cardigan)
Pekingese
Shih Tzu
French Bulldog
Mixed-breed dogs can be chondrodystrophic, too, with a short-legged appearance. (If you’re concerned that your dog may have this gene mutation, you can get DNA testing done and/or ask your breeder if he or she uses DNA testing.)
Dogs With Short Legs and Abnormal Growth
When limb bones grow in an abnormal direction, associated bones also can grow abnormally to compensate. The result can be an angular limb deformity, and the appearance of a shortened limb.
Many short-legged dogs have toes that do not point straight (in the same direction as the muzzle), and that is because of the angular limb deformity. This can happen in the forelimbs or the hindlimbs, and the toes can point either in (pigeon-toed) or out (duck-toed).
The dog’s elbow, which is located at the top of the dog’s front legs, is most often affected by chondrodystrophy. Credit: Enid Hajderi/Stocktreck Images | Getty Images
One of the joints most often affected by this disorder is the elbow. The elbow is a complex joint. There are three bones (humerus, ulna, radius) that need to grow in synchrony to form the normal elbow. If any of these bones have altered growth relative to the others, misalignment can result. This can cause pain and lameness due to the resultant joint instability.
Many of these dogs cope well with the deformities in their limbs, and it is not recommended to treat the deformity unless that individual dog is in pain.
What Is IVDD?
Chondrodystrophic dogs often battle intervertebral disc disease (IVDD), which is a problem with the vertebral column and the spine. The intervertebral disk is a cartilaginous cushion that sits between individual vertebrae, providing flexibility for the neck, back and tail.
Neck or back pain (holding his head low or unable to fully lift his head)
Lameness
Uncoordinated movement
Urinary and/or bowel incontinence
Difficulty breathing
Paralysis
Chondrodystrophic dogs often experience accelerated aging of the intervertebral discs, which can cause problems when they bulge or herniate into the spinal canal and pinch the spine. The result can cause pain, lameness, paralysis of limbs, and possible loss of bladder and bowel control. This is a devastating disorder that can be expensive to treat if surgery is required, and in some cases, surgery cannot restore comfort and mobility to the patient.
These dogs can be put in carts to give them more independence in their mobility, but they will require nursing care, usually administered by their owners, to manage urinary and fecal incontinence, or to express the urinary bladder and manually evacuate stool out of the rectum.
Some dogs are euthanized because the surgery can be so expensive, and the nursing care can be overwhelming for owners.
Due to the increased risk for IVDD, it is wise for owners of chondrodystrophic dogs to consider getting pet insurance in case their beloved dog requires expensive treatment. Be prepared, however, to pay for add-on coverage, which can be expensive.
While spay and neuter surgeries on dogs have become routine and commonplace, they are still fairly major operations. Spay surgeries for female dogs are more invasive, but neuter surgery on an adult male dog is not insignificant! Photo by Nancy Kerns
At most veterinary hospitals, spay and neuter surgeries are charged according to the dog’s weight, with the potential for additional fees for females who are overweight, in heat, or pregnant, and males who have one or both testicles retained in their abdomen (rather than “dropped” into their scrotum). But the geographic location of the veterinary hospital also affects the price. A spay surgery that might cost $200 in a smaller suburban city could cost as much as $800 in a large city.
Nationwide averages for spaying healthy females run between $200 and $500, while averages for neutering healthy males run between $75 and $250.
Be aware that the price quote from any given clinic may cover only the cost of the surgery; some clinics charge separately for pre-surgical blood tests, IV fluids administered during surgery, and oral pain medication to administer to the dog for a few days after surgery. In some clinics, these services are optional and must be authorized by the owner before surgery, while in others, these services are considered mandatory. Be sure to ask whether there are charges beyond the cost of the surgery itself.
Pre-surgical blood tests help veterinarians determine whether the dog is truly healthy enough to undergo surgery safely. A complete blood count (CBC) reveals the number and percentages of the dog’s red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets. The results would let the veterinarian know whether the dog had anemia, an infection of any kind, and/or a problem with blood clotting. A blood chemistry test gives the vet more information about how the dog’s kidneys and liver are functioning. These organs play the most significant role in processing the sedative and anesthetic medications your dog is given before and during surgery. A veterinarian who knows – before surgery – that this function is compromised in the patient can take special precautions with the medications to protect the patient.
While private veterinary clinics are the most expensive, they are best able to prevent and address complications and may offer the best pain-control regimen for their patients.
Low-cost spay/neuter
In most areas, there are nonprofit organizations that help organize and finance clinics and spay/neuter programs to help reduce costs. They keyword here is “nonprofit” – some of these clinics charge little more than their costs for the surgeries! Low-cost spay/neuter clinics may charge as little as $40 for neutering and $100 for a spay, or as much as $75 (neuter) to $375 (spay).
Be advised that one of the ways that these clinics reduce the cost of these surgeries is by foregoing pre-surgical blood tests, IV fluids administered during surgery, and anything more than the minimum pain-relief medication (typically, an injection of Meloxicam or Carprofen that provides anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving activity for about 24 hours). Some, but not all, low-cost clinics may provide these services and medication for additional fees.
What’s involved in spay and neuter surgeries
While spay and neuter surgeries are quite routine today, spaying a female dog means removing her reproductive organs. The traditional spay procedure, which removes both the ovaries and uterus, is called an ovariohysterectomy. A more widely used procedure in Europe, one that’s becoming popular in the U.S., is the ovariectomy, which removes both ovaries and leaves the uterus undisturbed. There are risks and benefits to both procedures, as with all surgeries.
Neutering, also known as castration, is a surgical procedure that removes a male dog’s testicles, making it impossible for him to fertilize a female’s eggs and reproduce. The surgery usually reduces testosterone-driven behaviors, such as urinating to mark territory; mounting other dogs, objects, or humans; excessive roaming; and escape attempts.
When to spay or neuter
Most shelter dogs undergo spay or neuter surgery before they are sent home with adopters; their adoption fees usually only partially cover the cost of their surgeries. For the adopter, though, it’s highly cost-effective to adopt a dog who has already been surgically altered. Photo by kali9, Getty Images
According to veterinarian and author Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, the best time to spay a female dog depends on her breed and size, as some studies have shown links between the early spaying of large breeds and joint disorders and cancers. Most veterinarians spay small breeds before their first heat cycle at age 6 months, while the general recommendation for large-breed dogs is to wait until at least 12 months to spay. Overall, Dr. Fatcheric concludes, there are more pros than cons to spaying your female dog if she is not intended for breeding. Ovariohysterectomy spaying means no messy heats, no unwanted pregnancies, less chance of breast cancer, no chance of ovarian or uterine cancer, and no chance of uterine infection (pyometra), which is a common surgical emergency in older, intact (not spayed) female dogs.
Dr. Fatcheric explains that veterinarians now recommend waiting to neuter male dogs after they reach full skeletal maturity, especially large-breed males. “Allowing these dogs to grow under the influence of their sex hormones means they grow more naturally, resulting in healthier joint angles and structure,” she says. “They also grow stronger and less injury-prone tendons and ligaments. We have scientific proof that neutering a dog too early potentially makes him more prone to orthopedic problems like hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments in the knee.” This changes the male neutering timetable to later dates than were previously recommended, such as 12 months of age for small breeds, 18 months for medium to large breeds, and 2 years for giant-breed dogs.
Simple or complicated
The simplest spay/neuter surgeries are performed on young, healthy, active, slender dogs. Females in season, pregnant, older, or overweight have more complicated operations that cost more. A male dog’s neutering is far less expensive than spaying because the surgery is less invasive, although if your dog’s testes are still inside his body and have not properly dropped (called cryptorchid testes), the procedure is more complicated and costly.
How to locate lower-cost spay/neuter services
The North Shore Animal League America SpayUSA is a nationwide referral network for affordable spay and neuter services. For over 20 years SpayUSA has helped owners obtain low-cost, quality spay and neuter services for their cats and dogs. Enter your zip code at the link above or call toll-free (800) 248-SPAY.
Your local PetSmart store can connect you to the company’s $25 Spay and Neuter Program, which is available to pet owners who cannot otherwise afford the surgery. Requirements vary by program and location. The $25 fee typically covers the cost of surgery, including anesthesia and pain medication. Some programs include a pre-surgical exam and post-operative care.
Best Friends Animal Society maintains a resource map of spay/neuter network partners throughout the United States. The map currently lists 791 low-cost spay/neuter clinics, 685 voucher or financial assistance programs, and 85 mobile clinics.
Check local and county animal shelters for information about spay/neuter programs in your area. Look for statewide programs, too, such as these representative examples:
Do not share your beer with your dog, or leave glasses of beer where your dog might drink it! Alcohol is toxic for dogs. The “dog beers” marketed by Anheuser-Busch and other companies do not contain alcohol. Photo by Javier Zayas Photography/Getty Images
Ever hear of Busch Dog Brew? Created by Anheuser-Busch, Busch Dog Brew made its debut in 2020. Advertised as a way to share a cold one with your best friend, Busch Dog Brew contains pork broth, vegetables, herbs, spices, and water; in other words, it doesn’t contain any alcohol, or resemble real beer in the slightest! It’s just a beverage that your dog may enjoy, cleverly packaged to appeal to you! And, just in time for autumn, Busch has released the limited edition Pumpkin Spice Busch Dog Brew, containing pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, and water. Each beverage can be served in a bowl or poured over your dog’s favorite dry food. The Busch Dog Brews are available online at Shop Beer Gear. For each $10 four-pack of Dog Brew sold, the company donates $1 to the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab, Utah.
There are a number of other, smaller companies producing their own dog-branded beverages in cute, funny, and/or punny packaging. The Good Boy Dog Beer Company was founded by Texas bar owners Megan and Steve Long when Rocky, their oldest Rottweiler, developed food sensitivities and they experimented with treats and foods that agreed with him. Their most successful creations became Good Boy Dog Beers. Their website explains, “We use all the same equipment as a brewery, we just skip the fermentation (alcohol-producing) part.”
Good Boy’s flavors and ingredients (in addition to filtered water) include Crotch Sniffin’ Ale (unsalted peanuts, unsalted almonds, whole grain oats, and cinnamon), Good Girl Dog Beer (whole bone-in chicken, turmeric, ginger, basil, carrots, and fennel), IPA Lot In The Yard (bone-in pork butt, turmeric, basil, mint, fennel, ginger, and celery), and Mailman Malt Licker (chicken, turmeric, ginger, oranges, carrots, basil, cilantro, and fennel). Good Boy beers are available online and at dog friendly restaurants, bars, pet stores, liquor stores, and grocery stores across the U.S. and Canada.
Bowser Beer for Dogs is a family-owned business that uses human-grade USDA meat to create flavorful no-alcohol brews. The beer’s 12-ounce bottles carry three flavors (beef, pork, and chicken) and contain, in addition to the meat on the label, malt extract, glucosamine HCL, and several preservatives. For special occasions you can order dog beer with labels featuring your dog’s photo. Custom orders support canine charities.
Dawg Grog Beer for Dogs was created in 2012 by craft brewer Daniel Keeton in Bend, Oregon. Dawg Grog is made from Oregon mountain water, brewers wort (malted barley water) from a local brewery, vegetarian glucosamine, and a trace mineral supplement. The vegetarian brew, bottled in half-pint (8-ounce) bottles, can be served over wet or dry food, offered by itself, or frozen into cubes as a hot-weather treat.
Beer Paws Craft Beer for Dogs contains beef, malt extract, beef liver powder, and turmeric to help promote canine joint health. Available in 12-ounce single cans and six-packs, Beer Paws may appeal to older and finicky dogs because of its intense flavor.
Make your own “dog beer”
Try making your own dog beer, which your pup will be happy to sample.
Purchase unsalted chicken or beef broth to use as a base, being sure the broth is free from onions or other ingredients not recommended for dogs, or follow this simple bone broth recipe:
Start with 3 to 4 pounds of raw or leftover bones with meat and connective tissue attached. In a large pot, slow cooker, or Instant Pot, add enough filtered water to cover the bones by 2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar or lemon juice. If desired, add 4 cups chopped carrots, celery, pumpkin, green beans, or other dog-friendly vegetables. Let stand for 30 minutes before cooking to enhance the release of minerals.
Stovetop:Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a bare simmer, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and cook for 24 hours (poultry bones) or 48 hours (beef or red meat bones).
Slow cooker or crock pot:On low heat setting, cook for 24 hours (poultry) or 48 hours (beef, red meat).
Oven: Bring ingredients to a boil on the stove, then transfer to a large oven-safe ceramic or metal pot with lid and bake, covered, at 150ºF for 15 to 24 hours
Instant Pot: Close lid and set to cook on low pressure for 4 hours (poultry) or 5 hours (beef or red meat). Let the pressure release naturally.
Strain broth through a mesh sieve or cheesecloth and transfer to jars for storage. Discard the layer of fat that collects at the top.
Turn your broth into “dog beer”
To 1 quart (4 cups) broth add 2 tablespoons brewer’s yeast or nutritional yeast, which will give the broth a beer-like flavor. Yeast, which is rich in B vitamins, is recommended for canine skin, hair, and digestion. Turmeric is an optional ingredient with anti-inflammatory properties; add 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric if desired. Simmer the broth mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, then cool to room temperature.
Both broth and pretend beer will keep for a week in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. The recommended amount to feed dogs is 1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) per 10 pounds of body weight once or twice daily.
Serve it with style
It’s fun to share special occasions with best friends, including the dogs in your life. Pour the pretend beer over your dog’s dinner or over ice in a bowl, or simply serve it in a mug and enjoy the celebration. Bone broth and dog beers are tasty add-ons, not meal replacements.
A lethargic dog just doesn’t want to get up and move, sometimes even not trying to get to his food. Mike Linnane | Getty Images
Lethargy in dogs is more than being sleepy after a long hike. That’s being tired. A lethargic dog is sluggish, sometimes not even wanting to get up to eat. A lethargic dog usually doesn’t feel well.
Lethargy in dogs may be a passing thing, like he just doesn’t feel well on that day for some minor reason, or it could be sign of underlying health problems.
Causes for Lethargy in Dogs
Causes for lethargy are many. It might be as simple as a hot, humid day that makes your Malamute want to lay around an AC vent or blowing fan and dream of snow drifts. This dog isn’t really sick, but he understandably isn’t feeling energetic either. More concerning is when your young dog is lethargic without an environmental reason.
Fever: A common cause of lethargy is a fever. Just like you when you have a fever, your dog is exhausted, grumpy, and just wants to be left alone. Take your dog’s body temperature. It’s pretty easy with modern digital devices. Normal body temperature for dogs is 101 to 102.5°F (38.3 to 39.2°C). Know your dog’s normal by taking his temperature periodically when he feels well. Some dogs naturally run a tad under or over.
Pain: Another common cause is pain. A dog in pain does not want to get up and go play fetch, although fanatic retrievers sometimes do so even in great pain. It is your responsibility as an owner to recognize pain and not push your dog. Pain could come from an injured leg or a crampy stomach. Do a gentle physical exam and note any signs of pain, which might be a subtle catch in his breath when you touch the area.
Illness: Lethargy can also reflect various illnesses. Anything that causes anemia may slow your dog down. Cardiac or respiratory problems also mean less oxygen to the tissues so less energy. A tickborne disease could be the culprit. Even scented candles can cause lethargy. Metabolic problems like liver or kidney disease can simply make a dog feel lethargic, ill, and not like playing.
What You Can Do
If your normally energetic pooch is lethargic for one day and has no other clinical signs, it may be OK to just observe him. Two days of lethargy, however, should be a cause for a veterinary visit even if you don’t notice anything else off. Remember, dogs are good at hiding physical problems.
