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Histiocytomas in dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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A vet examines a small dog for health issues.
Caption: Any lump or bump should be brought to your dog’s veterinarian’s attention. A fine needle aspirate can be used to diagnose or rule out a histiocytoma. Photo by Nancy Kerns

A cutaneous histiocytoma is a proliferation of cells involved with the immune system called Langerhans cells. Histiocytomas are skin tumors that are raised and hairless and may be flesh-colored, pink, or red. They often look like a small button on the skin.

These benign tumors that are most commonly found in dogs less than 6 years old. They initially grow rapidly over a period of one to four weeks. Then they often remain the same size until they spontaneously regress and disappear a few months later.

Histiocytomas are often readily diagnosed by fine needle aspirate and cytology. Because they can appear similar to mast cell tumors, it is important to complete this diagnostic to confirm the type of lesion. If the lesion is a histiocytoma, no further intervention is necessary. It will regress and resolve on its own.

(What if it’s not a histiocytoma? What else could it be? Click here.)

Most dogs leave histiocytomas alone and don’t bother them. But if your dog licks or scratches at a histiocytoma, it can become ulcerated and infected. Having your dog wear an Elizabethan collar (the “cone of shame”) and keeping the skin nodule clean and dry will often resolve the infection. A short course of an antibiotic may also be prescribed by your veterinarian. 

Histiocytomas that continue to become infected or are not regressing on their own may need to be surgically removed by your veterinarian. This is typically a minor and straightforward procedure but it does require general anesthesia. Your dog will likely go home the same day that the procedure is performed.

For most dogs, the presence of a histiocytoma requires nothing more than monitoring until it resolves. It will often disappear almost as quickly as it initially appeared.

Why Dogs Lick Excessively

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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A black lab sits on its hind legs on an empty wooded trail with fallen autumn leaves, licking its tongue humorously.
Caption: Dogs don’t lick without reason. It’s up to you to determine the cause and treat it if needed. Credit: Greg Benz | Getty Images

Dogs who lick their lips excessively may be suffering from anxiety, nausea, pain, oral disease, oral foreign body, or salivary gland disease. Or, they could just be smelling something yummy and licking their lips in anticipation (remember Pavlov’s dogs?).  Still, boredom, compulsive behavior, and infection are all reasons dogs lick excessively.

Anxiety

Anxious dogs express their angst in different ways. Some scratch, some yawn, some tremble and tuck their tails, some whine, and some lick their lips repeatedly. Anxious dogs may excessively lick their skin to distract themselves from whatever is freaking them out. A veterinarian may be able to prescribe a medication to help your dog and offer ways to offset the dog’s anxiety.

Nausea

Nauseous dogs often drool excessively while their stomach feels off, before they eventually vomit. It’s natural for them to lick their lips when all that drool is dripping. A vomiting dog should be seen by a veterinarian if it doesn’t quickly resolve.

Bad Breath

If your dog excessively licks his lips and has bad breath, it’s time to look in his mouth. Dental disease –tartar, gingivitis, infection, periodontal disease, and loose teeth – can cause drooling and oral pain, both of which can result in excessive lip licking. Be sure to look at the roof of the mouth. When examining a dog for unusual lip licking, I have found a stick or a bone lodged across the roof of the mouth more times than I can count. The licking dog was just trying to dislodge it. If you suspect an oral problem, start with a visit to your veterinarian.

Allergies

Dogs who lick their skin excessively are usually suffering from allergies. Allergies in dogs frequently cause excessive licking of the paws. All that moisture can result in secondary yeast or bacterial infection of the skin there, which makes your dog want to lick there even more. Medications or dietary changes may be recommended.

Painful Joints

Dogs with arthritic joints will often spend time licking achy joints to try to soothe the pain. Your veterinarian can help you decide the best way to ease the inflammation and pain and help your dog. Librela is a new drug that is expected to soon receive FDA approval.

Boredom

Bored dogs may choose a spot to obsessively lick simply for something to do, sometimes to the point of creating a big sore called a lick granuloma.

Licking Owners

Dogs who lick their human’s skin may just be expressing affection. If you have recently applied lotion with coconut oil or shea butter, they probably just love how you taste.

If your dog is excessively licking and you can’t determine the cause or resolve it on your own, it’s time to see your veterinarian. Whether your dog is anxious, allergic, infected, nauseous or in pain, your veterinarian will help you keep your dog comfortable and living his best life

How To Train a Deaf Dog

By
Debbie DeSantis, BAH, CPDT-KA
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A black labrador retriever pays close attention to its owner's hand command.
A dog trainer giving a hand command to Black Labrador dog.

Training a deaf dog requires patience and consistency, just as training a dog who can hear does. While replacing the verbal “sit” with a hand cue may seem odd to you, it’s normal for your dog. He’s been watching you all along. According to a 2018 study published in Animals, dogs naturally communicate with their bodies, as well as visual, tactile, acoustic, and olfactory signals.

Always have yummy treats ready for your training sessions, so you can capture and reward desired behaviors whenever they occur. Let’s start!

Teach Attention

All dogs need to be able to pay attention to their humans, but with deaf dogs, it’s critical. Because the dog can’t hear, training a deaf dog requires that he learn to look at you. Start with your dog on a six-foot leash.

This will take patience, but your dog will look at you. When he does, reinforce with a treat. Do this a half-dozen to a dozen times, and then end the session. You can repeat the session later. After he gets the idea that looking at you is the desired behavior, just give the attention cue and reward him when he looks at you.

You can train a “pay attention to me” cue, like pointing to your face, but if simply you treat each time he looks at you – consistently! – he will happily and frequently look at you, hoping it pays off with a yummy treat.

If He Ignores You

If your dog looks away too much, don’t worry. Just remember to reward him when he looks at you. To increase his attention, you can:

  • Make vibrations. As you approach your dog, he may feel the floor vibrating and turn to look at you. If not, you may stomp your foot or hand on the floor to get his attention. Treat when he looks at you.
  • Use a flashlight. Turning a flashlight on and off a few times should get your dog’s attention inside any time or outside at night. Do the light flashes inside near him first, so that you can give him a treat immediately after he looks at you. You want him to understand that’s the desired behavior. You can even use a porch light turned on and off to get attention at night. Caution using light sources though: Some dogs may develop OCD and compulsively chase the lights, especially lasers.
  • Gently touch his shoulder or on his back above his tail. Before doing this, you need to condition him that this is a positive action so that you don’t startle him.
  • Use a vibrating collar. This can be used to get your dog’s attention. The point is to communicate, not punish. Some dogs may be sensitive to the vibrations and become stressed. If so, use a different method to get his attention. Never use a shock collar, which is always aversive.

Hand Signals

You can use traditional hand obedience-competition signals: adapt some from American Sign Language, or make up your own. Dogs are experts at reading body language. Whatever you select, it’s crucial that you and everyone working with your deaf dog are precisely consistent in the signal used, including which hand is used. Each hand signal must be distinctive from the others.

When using hand signals, you can speak the word for the behavior cue. Even though the dog can’t hear it, you will probably be more natural if you simultaneously say the cue as you give the signal.

Use lure-reward training when teaching a cue using a hand signal. The dog will naturally follow the motion of the lure. “Sit” is a basic behavior to start with. Have a yummy treat in your hand and hold it just above your dog’s nose. Slowly move it toward the back of his head, then lift your elbow up toward a 90-degree angle. As soon as your dog’s posterior touches the ground in a sit, give him his reward treat.

In another training session, you can teach him to lie down on cue. Make a sweeping motion with a treat in front of his nose down to the ground when he’s sitting, luring him down. Treat and reward when his elbows come into contact with the ground.

Frankly, hand signals help any dog – with or without hearing – pay more attention to you. Even if your dog still has his hearing, many lose it as they age. And, just as with us, background noise can get in the way of the dog hearing a verbal cue. Plus – there may be times you can’t (or don’t want to) speak – like when you’re on the phone with a client.

Mark the Behavior

Since your dog can’t hear the traditional “good job” reward marker such as the click of a clicker or a verbal “Yes!” you need a different reward marker. This can be a thumbs-up, the action of clapping your hands, or even nodding your head a few times. And smile! Your dog will notice. Use your reward marker signal after he performs the desired behavior cue, then immediately provide him with his reward treat. Remember that every time you mark a behavior you must treat or provide some other high-value reinforcer.

If at any time your dog is reactive, aggressive, or you’re not making progress, get professional help before proceeding. Take your deaf dog to the veterinarian to be sure there aren’t any physical issues. You can also contact the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants or the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists to find a behavior specialist in your area. If you need help with the training itself, you can contact the Pet Professional Guild or the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.

Discontinued? Nooooo! 

By
Nancy Kerns
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Things started devolving a few days ago, when I was busy watching my almost-2-year-old dog Boone chase a herding ball around my two-acre property. I had also been throwing Woody’s favorite ball with a Chuck-It, but the almost-8-year-old dog was panting hard, so I told him to take a break and left him laying in the damp grass with his ball. I bought a variety of herding balls to review a couple months ago, and Boone has developed some amazing skills at chasing his favorite – the 10-inch Virtually Indestructible Ball made by ht-pet.com.  

It’s fun to watch Boone as he races all over the property, pushing the ball uphill, downhill, into the ditch that bisects our property (and turns into a tiny stream when it rains hard), out of the ditch, under bushes, and WHAM! – into fences, which he loves because he can chase it even faster as it rolls along a long fence line. He is getting fit and lean from all this exercise, and clearly has a blast doing it.  

Finally, Boone rolled to a stop, panting, and plopped down on the ground near me, taking his own break. I turned around to see if Woody was ready for a few more throws and, to my dismay, realized that, while resting, he had chomped and chewed his favorite ball nearly to the point of no return. 

Woody’s all-time favorite ball is the Orbee-Tuff Squeak Ball made by Planet Dog. It has all the features he likes in a ball: It’s made of a particularly bouncy material, but it’s hollow and fairly light-weight – but heavy enough to fly far when checked with a Chuckit! Ball Launcher. It floats, so we can play fetch at the lake. And it has a squeaker inside! – not one that can be chewed and removed, but molded as an integral part inside the ball. The ball will squeak when bounced hard on the ground, or when chomped between Woody’s mighty jaws – at least for the first month or two that he works on the ball. He likes to chew them like bubblegum as he returns from fetching, and if you let him wander away from you with one in his mouth, he’ll chew and chew and chew. (And rest with his lip draped over the ball, to maintain possession. And sometimes, he will even fall asleep with one in his mouth.) 

Eventually, with enough unsupervised chewing, the squeaker will stop squeaking, and with even more unsupervised chewing, Woody can eventually cause the ball to crack. Then it’s a matter of minutes before he chews it into pieces. This process, complete with my somewhat distracted management, usually takes four to six months before I need to buy another one. There is ONE store in a nearby town that sometimes carries these, and when they have them in stock, I buy a couple. But I’ve also ordered many times from Amazon or Chewy.

Obviously, I try not to leave the ball laying around for Woody to chew. He doesn’t swallow the pieces, though if he did, that would (of course) be my main concern. Since he doesn’t swallow them, the sheer cost is my main problem to date. Replacing them even just two or three times a year adds up! I’ve probably spent hundreds of dollars on renewing our supply of these balls over Woody’s lifetime (Otto chewed up a few of these, too).  And now, because of my inattention, I need to order one or two more.  

Discontinued?! 

So imagine my horror when I tried to add a couple to my next Chewy order and discovered they have none in stock.  

I switched to Amazon – and the only ones they show as available are coming from a supplier in the United Kingdom, and are twice the cost that I usually pay. Ack!! 

I went to the manufacturer’s website  – and neither the blue nor the orange version of the ball is shown. I think it’s been discontinued!  

A year or two ago, I noticed that the balls I bought didn’t smell or feel exactly the same as they always had. The maker, Planet Dog, had been purchased by another dog-toy maker, Outward Hound, and it seemed like the mold or the rubbery material used was slightly different, but only I noticed this; the change didn’t seem to bother Woody at all.  

Given that even after the company’s sale, I was able to find the ball (and other favorite Planet Dog toys, like the Snoop, I went through the maker’s website again more slowly. Now I see that they are selling a pink ball with the same name – but what if the material is not the same? It might not have the chewy mouth-feel that Woody enjoys so much, and the bounce and flying ability that I love so much! I’ve ordered a couple – and Amazon shows that it will take a month to arrive! Noooo! I’ve also called a pet supply store in a nearby town (where I’ve bought the ball several times in the past) to see if they have any of the old balls still in stock. As I write this, I am waiting for a call back! If they have some, I am going to race over and buy every one they have!

Have one of your dog’s favorite toys or chews or other items even been discontinued? How did you cope? Did you find a replacement?  

Why Do Dogs Roll on Their Backs?

By
John Strassburger
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There could be many reasons why dogs roll on their backs. One thing known for sure is that it feels good, especially on grass. Credit: Smartshots International| Getty Images

Why do dogs roll on their backs? A study published in a 2015 issue of Behavioural Processes determined that rolling over during play was a “combat maneuver adopted as part of an ongoing play sequence.” The researchers found the frequency of rollovers depended upon how long the play lasted. They considered none of the movements submissive, but instead, decided the dogs were either exhibiting defensive or offensive maneuvers during the play. This study debunks the idea that a dog rolling over, or showing their stomach to you or another dog, is a sign of submission.

We suspect there are a lot of reasons why dogs roll and, while behaviorists are amazing scientists, the dogs aren’t talking. One thing we know for sure – because dogs tell us with their body language and the above study says they saw it most during play – is that rolling feels good!

Dogs My Roll Because of Itchy Skin

Some dogs do roll because they’re trying to scratch an itch they can’t reach any other way. This is perfectly normal. The one thing we know for sure – because they tell us with their body language and facial expressions – is that it feels good to them, especially rolling in grass.

Excessive scratching, however, especially to the point of damaging the hair or the skin, could be a sign of a problem, such as fleas, ticks, parasites, pain, or an allergy. If that is the case, veterinary help is necessary.

Dog Roll to Hide Their Scent

Animal experts believe another cause of rolling goes back millions of years – to when dogs were wild and had to hunt for food. They roll in a scent other than their own to hide their own scent, so their prey won’t smell them as they approach.

And usually the smellier it is, the better it is. Other animals’ urine or feces, or even a dead animal, are best for the job of masking.

We know that dogs smell in layers, unlike humans. For instance, when we find a rose that smells like a skunk sprayed it, we only smell the skunk spray. But a dog smells the skunk spray and the rose.

Similarly, a dog can smell a tree that two or more dogs have marked with urine and identify those dogs. And when you see your dog sniffing the breeze, he’s identifying scents familiar and foreign, and dogs have an uncanny ability to smell things, which is one of the reasons they are such an asset in criminal investigations. Dogs enjoy scent, which may be one of the reasons scent games are increasing.

What Are the Best Dog Supplements?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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The best dog supplements will help keep your dog fit and active.
Keeping your dog fit and at a good weight will go a long way toward maintaining his active lifestyle, but arthritic joints are as inevitable for your dog as they are for us, and a good joint supplement can be money well spent. Credit: Tim Platt | Getty Images

Supplements are a big buzzword for dog owners right now. You name the problem, and you can find a nutritional supplement for it. But does your dog really need a supplement? Except in the case of dogs battling arthritis and needing a joint supplement or some high-performance dogs, probably not.

Best Dog Hip and Joint Supplements

Joint supplements for arthritis have research behind their use. Glucosamine, chondroitin, Boswellia, omega-3 fatty acids found in fish oil, and avocado soy unsaponifiables (ASUs) have clinical backing. Best of all, research is ongoing in this area, so other substances like hyaluronic acid (HA), green-lipped mussels, and MSM are also being researched with promising results. Many canine products are being developed based on decades of research from equine and human supplements.

Joint supplements are expensive, and you do need to feed the amounts recommended or you are just wasting your money, including the required “loading period,” where you may have to give additional product in the first few weeks or so. Be sure to give the product a fair chance to show if it’s helping, which means keeping your dog on the product for at least two months.

Starting your dog on supplements sooner rather than later is wise. Supplements cannot reverse arthritis damage, but some research shows they can help delay its onset. Many owners of dogs who compete in canine sports begin supplementing their dogs early in their careers. For older dogs, in many cases, joint supplements can make your dog comfortable, help to minimize pain and to maximize mobility into your dog’s senior years. For some, however, the arthritis damange may be extensive enough that your dog may require pain medications to keep him active.

Choosing a Joint Supplement

Once you get finish your research and come up with helpful ingredients, you need to consider the many different supplement brands. The National Animal Supplement Council evaluates the products from its member companies to ensure that these supplements do contain what the labels state and to check that the company meets high standards of manufacturing and ingredients. Your veterinarian can guide you as well, but checking for a product with an NASC seal on it is still wise.

Other Nutritional Supplements

While joint supplements do have proven benefits for arthritis, if you’re feeding quality food with an AAFCO statement of nutritional adequacy on the bag that is appropriate for your dog’s life stage, your dog’s diet likely already covers any nutritional needs. Adding more is not always a good thing. You can even make your dog sick, as it’s important to consider what medications he is on and if there are potentially toxic interactions.

Ask yourself if there is evidence to back up any claims for the product you are considering. Look for a clinical trial or two that followed proper scientific protocols. Better yet, see if you can find one published in a peer-reviewed veterinary journal. Chances are, you can’t, except for joint supplements, as indicated. And always discuss nutritional supplements with your veterinarian.

What is Cushing’s Disease in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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This overweight dog suffers from Cushing’s Syndrome, causing him to experience constant thirst, drink too much water, and have to urinate frequently. Photo by ktaylorg, Getty Images
This overweight dog suffers from Cushing’s Syndrome, causing him to experience constant thirst, drink too much water, and have to urinate frequently. Photo by ktaylorg, Getty Images

Cushing’s disease in dogs, also known as hyperadrenocorticism (HAC), is a syndrome that occurs when the dog’s body is under the influence of too much steroid, whether it be natural steroid produced in the body or steroid medications that were administered to treat another condition.

The most common symptoms of Cushing’s disease in dogs include:

  • Excessive thirst (polydipsia)
  • Excessive urination (polyuria)
  • Excessive hunger and eating (polyphagia)
  • Excessive panting
  • Muscle weakness
  • Abdominal distension (“pot-bellied appearance”)
  • Thinning hair coat or balding (alopecia)
  • Slow hair regrowth
  • Thin skin
  • Blackheads (comedones)
  • Lethargy

In addition to these symptoms, dogs with Cushing’s disease are prone to high blood pressure (hypertension), urinary tract infections, chronic skin infections, concurrent diabetes, thick skin plaques called calcinosis cutis, and blood clots (thromboembolism). Because ligaments become weaker, anterior cruciate ligaments (ACLs) in the knee may tear or rupture. Stomach ulcers may eventually develop in untreated dogs.

Fortunately, Cushing’s tends to be quite slowly progressive, so it will likely be months, or even years, before a dog with the syndrome suffers many of these symptoms.

Adrenal function needs to be just right

Natural steroids, also known as glucocorticoids or cortisol, are essential hormones produced by the adrenal glands that play a role in metabolism, immunity, the stress response, and other important bodily functions. Underactive adrenal glands, producing too little steroid, create a life-threatening condition called Addison’s disease in dogs. Overactive adrenal glands, producing too much steroid, results in Cushing’s disease in dogs. Life is definitely best when adrenal function is just right!

The preferred term for Cushing’s disease or hyperadrenocorticism in dogs is “Cushing’s Syndrome,” as Cushing’s is complicated, with four different types all causing the same set of symptoms:

  1. Pituitary-dependent hyperadrenocorticism (PDH). This is the most common form of Cushing’s disease in dogs, responsible for 85% of cases. It is caused by a tumor (usually benign) in the pituitary gland creating too much adrenal-stimulating hormone, which then results in overproduction of cortisol by the adrenal glands. Since the pituitary gland is very close to the brain, occasionally neurologic derangements can occur, depending on the size and type of tumor.
  2. Adrenal tumor. This type of HAC happens when a primary functional tumor forms in an adrenal gland, resulting in overproduction of cortisol.
  3. Iatrogenic HAC. This is caused by administration of steroid medication, either oral or topical, and is clinically indistinguishable from naturally occurring Cushing’s disease.
  4. Atypical HAC. This happens when a missing enzyme results in build up of cortisol precursors (sex hormones) resulting in the exact same symptoms as all the other forms of HAC.

Diagnosis for Cushing’s

No test for Cushing’s disease in dogs is perfect, but the one most heavily relied upon is called the low dose dexamethasone suppression test (LDDST). This is a “challenge” test, where the dog is given a dose of intravenous steroid, and its response to that challenge is measured. Due to the negative feedback systems responsible for maintaining balance in the body, a normal dog’s natural cortisol production will be suppressed when the brain recognizes extra steroid in circulation. But if a dog has Cushing’s disease, his overactive adrenal glands don’t have the capacity to suppress their cortisol production.

This test requires an 8-hour stay in the hospital, with a baseline blood sample drawn before the steroid is injected, and additional samples drawn at four hours and eight hours post-injection. Dogs without Cushing’s disease will have very low cortisol levels at four and eight hours. Dogs with Cushing’s disease will still have elevated cortisol levels at four and eight hours, since they are unable to suppress cortisol production.

The LDDST test can be a bit pricey. There is a less expensive, less invasive preliminary screening test you can do first, in hopes of avoiding the cost and stress associated with the LDDST. It is called a urine cortisol:creatinine ratio (UCCR) test. It is performed on a urine specimen you catch at home during a time of low or no stress for your dog (stress results in false positive results). And here’s the deal: If the UCCR test is normal your dog does not have Cushing’s disease. However, if the UCCR test result is abnormal, it means only that your dog might have Cushing’s, and you need to go forward with the LDDST after all.

Determining the type of Cushing’s

Once your dog has been diagnosed with Cushing’s disease, the next step is to determine whether it’s PDH or an adrenal tumor. While there are additional blood tests that can be performed, most clinicians recommend an abdominal ultrasound as the next step. With PDH, both adrenal glands are typically symmetrically enlarged. With an adrenal tumor, one adrenal gland is usually enlarged by tumor, and the opposite gland is small. Ultrasonography can often identify neoplastic (cancerous) changes in the architecture of the affected gland as well.

For iatrogenic Cushing’s, a good history is of the utmost importance. Is the dog taking oral steroids? Is topical cortisone being applied chronically for dermatologic disorders? Is the dog owner (or someone else in the household) using topical cortisone products on themselves that the dog may be licking? To confirm iatrogenic Cushing’s disease, an Adrenocorticotrophic Hormone Stimulation Test (ACTH Stim) must be performed. This is another “challenge” test. This time, a baseline blood sample is drawn, and ACTH is injected, with a post-injection sample drawn one to two hours later. Dogs with either normal adrenal glands, or PDH or AT, will show a spike in cortisol production after this adrenal stimulation. If the symptoms and history fit, and the ACTH Stim shows no spike in cortisol levels, iatrogenic Cushing’s is the diagnosis and the external source of steroid needs to be slowly withdrawn. Slow withdrawal is important, as the adrenal glands will have become a bit sleepy since there’s been plenty of steroid floating around, and they need time to ramp back up to full function.

If all of this isn’t complicated enough, let’s talk about Atypical Cushing’s disease. These dogs have all the symptoms of Cushing’s Syndrome but their diagnostic tests all come back normal. When this happens, the final stone to overturn is to test for Atypical Cushing’s, which requires an ACTH Stim test with measurement of sex hormones before and after stimulation. A spike in sex hormones after ACTH stimulation is indicative of Atypical Cushing’s.

Treatment for Cushing’s

Because Cushing’s disease progresses so slowly, some veterinarians and pet owners will opt not to treat until the dog’s symptoms become problematic. As long as you and your veterinarian monitor your dog’s health closely this is an acceptable approach early in the course of the disease.

Trilostane has become the treatment of choice for PDH. It is a synthetic steroid equivalent that inhibits an enzyme, resulting in suppression of natural cortisol production. Side effects are generally mild (lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea) but careful monitoring is important, as too much trilostane can cause excessive adrenal suppression, which can be deadly. Monitoring requires repeat ACTH Stim tests at the intervals recommended by your veterinarian.

Mitotane (Lysodren) is another treatment for PDH that actually destroys adrenal tissue, thereby decreasing the amount of cortisol that can be produced. Side effects may be mild or severe, and include weakness, vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Treatment with Lysodren also requires close monitoring with repeat ACTH Stim tests as inadvertently destroying too much adrenal tissue creates a potentially life-threatening situation, and the damage may be irreversible.

Radiation therapy can be considered for dogs with large pituitary tumors causing neurologic impairment.

For atypical Cushing’s disease, Lysodren is the treatment of choice as it suppresses the sex hormones as well as cortisol. Trilostane does not.

The treatment of choice for an adrenal tumor is surgical removal of the abnormal adrenal gland (unilateral adrenalectomy). This is unfortunately a difficult surgery with the possibility of severe complications (hemorrhage, thromboembolism) both during the procedure and after. The best candidates for surgery are dogs with small tumors with no evidence of tumor invasion into surrounding blood vessels and no evidence of cancer spread to liver or lungs (metastasis).

For dogs who are not candidates for surgery for whatever reason, palliative therapy with Trilostane or Lysodren can help. Radiation therapy is another option for these dogs.

If these treatments and their associated hazards have you shaking in your boots, supplements of melatonin and lignans are a couple of alternative treatments you can try. These are less noxious for sure, but unfortunately also less effective.

Melatonin is a neurohormone produced by the pineal gland; it inhibits certain enzymes resulting in decreased cortisol production.  Flaxseed oil with lignans has anti-estrogen activity so may be useful for Atypical Cushing’s disease. Melatonin and lignans can be used together.

You may read about ketoconazole and selegiline (Anipryl) as alternative treatments for Cushing’s disease. The word on these, however, is that their efficacy is so low you’d really just be wasting your time and money.

Time to think it over

As you can see, Cushing’s disease in dogs is complicated. Treatment options can be scary. The expense associated with treatment and the necessary monitoring adds up quickly. The upside is that Cushing’s disease is typically so slowly progressive that dogs can live with it for a long time before it causes problems. If your dog is diagnosed with Cushing’s disease, talk to your veterinarian about what may be the best option for you and your dog. To treat or not to treat? If treating, which treatment? If not treating, how can you carefully monitor your dog’s health while living with Cushing’s disease? Frequent physical examinations, blood work, urinalysis and blood pressure measurement should be considered. These are all important details that must be given serious consideration in order to make the best decisions for your dog.

Biggest Dog Breeds

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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The biggest dogs in the world were bred for specific jobs, and this affects their behavior in ways you might want to consider.
Keep in mind that almost everything for giant-breed dogs costs more, including food (of course), as well as health insurance, veterinary costs, and even beds (which must be giant-sized, too!). Photo by Nenov, Getty Images

There are a number of dog breeds that routinely tip the scales at 100 pounds or more. Here are the biggest (giant) dog breeds in the world – and why might you want (or not want) one.

Twelve of the biggest dog breeds

You’re probably familiar with some of these breeds. Others may be new to you. This is by no means a complete list; there are many more giant breeds. Note that the average size is just that: average. Many individuals are larger. Keep in mind that females of all breeds are smaller than the males.

  • Great Dane. Average height 34 inches, 150 lbs. Bred to hunt deer and wild boar.
  • Great Pyrenees. Average height 32 inches, 120 lbs. Flock guarding dogs.
  • Irish Wolfhound. Average height 32 inches, 120 lbs. Bred to hunt wolves, also used as war dogs.
  • Average height 32 inches, 175 lbs. Bred as a flock guardian.
  • Pyrenean Mastiff. Average height 32 inches at the shoulder, can be 180 lbs or more. Livestock-guarding breed.
  • Bernard. Average height 31 inches, 150 lbs. Bred to rescue humans and animals in the Alps.
  • English Mastiff. Average height 30 inches, 180 lbs. Bred for guarding sheep and humans.
  • Average height 30 inches, 170 lbs. Bred as a family companion.
  • Neopolitan Mastiff. Average height 30 inches, 160 lbs. Bred as a guard dog.
  • Tosa Inu (Japanese Mastiff). Average height 28 inches, 200 lbs. Bred for dogfighting.
  • Average height 28 inches, 150 lbs. Bred to rescue humans from the water.
  • Boerboel (South African Mastiff). Average height 27 inches, 175 lbs. Bred for guarding homesteads and flocks from hyenas, lions, and other big cats.

Things to consider with the biggest dogs

There are some very important things to keep in mind if you’re thinking about adding a giant-breed dog to your family:

  • First and most obvious: They are huge! – and strong. When your giant dog walks past your dining room table his head will pass over your plate. Put serious thought into how you will manage his size in your home. Your 8-year-old child probably won’t be able to take your Boerboel for a leash walk.
  • Socialization and training are A dog this large poses a risk to your personal safety (he can drag you down when walking on a leash) as well as the safety of others. Many of these very big dogs were bred to guard and have a natural tendency to be suspicious of – or even aggressive toward – strangers. Early socialization and ongoing training can help prevent significant behavior problems. And by the way: You must use force-free training methods; they may submit to physical force when they are puppies, but this is likely to instill in them some complicated and not-very-positive feelings about you. As they mature and gain strength and confidence, those feelings are likely to spur them to resist aggressively if you try to coerce them into compliance.
  • Keep in mind that breeds that were originally developed with a certain job in mind, such as guarding or fighting, may have a reduced genetic propensity for affiliative behavior with humans. This means that individuals of that breed may show less interest in interacting affectionately with you or your family. Some of these breeds are quite stoic and somewhat independent (from our human perspective.)
  • Many rental properties have size limitations. As a renter, even if your current landlord allows giant breeds, when you move in the future your housing options may be very limited.
  • Many of these very large dogs have loose jowls and are serious droolers. Be prepared to do lots of slobber cleanup!
  • Giant breeds have shorter life spans than their smaller cousins. St. Bernards average 8 to 10 years; Great Danes, 6 to 8 years; Leonbergers, 7 years; Irish Wolfhounds, 7 years… If you adopt one of these big dogs be prepared for the heartbreak of saying good-bye sooner than you might think.

On the plus side, big dogs can take up a very large space in your heart. Make a wise breed choice for your family, provide your oversized canine pal with the proper training and environment, and you’ll have a heck of a lot of dog to love.

What to Give a Dog for Constipation

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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What to give a dog with constipation depends on how long the dog has been constipated.
A dog who is straining to poop needs veterinary attention. Credit: Elartedejulieta | Getty Images

What to give a dog for constipation at home depends upon how bad the constipation case is. If you suspect your dog is constipated, start by looking at your dog’s anus. Make sure your dog is not suffering from “external constipation,” which happens in long-haired dogs when soft stool collects in the hair around the anus, eventually forming a “plug” which prevents passage of stool, no matter how hard your dog tries. Clean up if necessary.

A dog in pain needs to be seen by a veterinarian. Your dog needs to be seen by a veterinarian if he has:

  • Constipation with no bowel movement for three days.
  • Constipation with pain when trying to defecate, which may be expressed by pacing, circling, crying, hiding, sudden sitting, and looking/licking back at the anus.
  • Constipation with vomiting.
  • Constipation with loss of appetite.

What to Give a Dog for Constipation at Home

If the anus is clear, the dog is not in pain, and it has been less than three days since his last bowel movement, you can consider these dietary interventions:

  • Feed canned food with water added to super-hydrate your dog.
  • If you are not already, add canned pumpkin to your dog’s meals (small dog 1 tbsp; medium dog 2 tbsp; large dog; 3 tbsp).
  • Ask your veterinarian if it’s OK for you to try coconut oil or olive oil and how much to give your individual dog.

Prevent Constipation

If your dog has ever had to have constipation relieved by a veterinary professional, these preventative measures for you:

  • Weight loss for overweight dogs: Overweight dogs have a much harder time completely emptying their colon when they have a bowel movement. They often have a hard time holding their pooping posture long enough due to joint pain or poor fitness, and their abdominal push is typically weaker.
  • Hydration: Dehydration results in drier, harder stools that are harder to pass. If your dog is not a good water drinker, try adding water to his meals and maybe even some canned food which has more moisture than kibble.
  • Exercise: Increased activity and better fitness overall helps keep the colon healthy and helps dogs move their bowels more fully every time they defecate.
  • Probiotics: These are the good bacteria the gut needs to function properly. A happy colon empties better.
  • Prebiotics: These are really just fiber sources. The fiber is the “food” the good bacteria in the gut require to be fruitful and multiply. Fiber also helps form healthy poop that is easier to pass and keeps the colon happy. Pumpkin and psyllium powder are the most popular fiber sources for dogs.
  • You can try the feline hairball treatments available over-the-counter (OTC). These are both lubricating and laxative.
  • You can try the human OTC laxative called Miralax (polyethylene glycol 3350). This works by pulling moisture from the body into the stools to soften them and make them easier to pass. Ask your veterinarian how much to give, which will typically be between 1/8 to 1/2 teaspoon per meal depending on the size of your dog and your dog’s history.

Signs of Canine Sebaceous Adenitis

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Standard Poodle Outdoor
In the Standard Poodle, sebaceous adenitis may be an inherited disease. Credit: Kurt Pas | Getty Images

Sebaceous adenitis is a disease of the sebaceous glands in your dog’s skin. Healthy glands produce an oily substance, called sebum, that helps with hydration and moisture in the skin as well as being a barrier to pathogens.

In sebaceous adenitis, inflammation and immune responses destroy the glands. Dogs with this problem end up with brittle hair that cracks and falls out, leading to alopecia. Seborrhea and secondary bacterial infections are common.

Sebaceous adenitis is a relatively new recognized disease, first noted in 1986. A Swedish study found it more prevalent in the male dogs it was following.

Causes of Sebaceous Adenitis

Sebaceous adenitis is associated with some chronic conditions such as hypothyroidism, but it can be a primary illness with a genetic predisposition. Akitas and Standard Poodles have autosomal recessive inheritance, which means both sexes can be affected, and a dog must have two copies of the defect to show clinical signs. The Doodle breeds also can be prone to this disease. Other breeds can be affected as well with both long- and short-haired dogs as victims. Young to middle-aged dogs are most commonly diagnosed with this skin problem.

The Diagnosis

An accurate diagnosis requires a skin biopsy since many dermatologic problems can appear similar.

The Institute for Genetic Disease Control in Animals has an open registry for sebaceous adenitis in the Standard Poodle. It requires submitted biopsy results. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals has a similar listing service. Repeated biopsies are recommended for any dog used for breeding.

Treatment

Treatment starts with medicated baths. After shampooing, a conditioner is recommended. This will be a lifelong requirement for affected dogs. Oral therapy is generally required as well.

Sebaceous adenitis is not responsive to corticosteroids. Omega fatty acids, systemic retinoids, cyclosporine, vitamin A, tetracycline, and niacinamide have all been used successfully. Some dogs may be able to have dosages decreased over time, but virtually all affected dogs will require some medication continued for life along with the baths.

Any secondary problems, such as pyoderma, will need to be treated as well.

Most dogs respond well to treatment, but it is imperative to continue treatment, so your dog doesn’t relapse.

How Often to Feed a Puppy

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Puppy eats from a bowl indoors
Puppies need to eat more often than adult dogs to maintain blood sugar levels and support their rapid growth. Credit: Jessie Casson | Getty Images

How much and how often to feed a puppy is a matter of making a gradual change as your puppy acclimates to your home and his energy needs increase. Puppies need to eat more often than adult dogs to maintain blood sugar levels and support their rapid growth.

When your puppy first comes home, try to keep your puppy on the meal schedule and food that he is used to eating. Ask his breeder or the rescue you got him from what food he has been eating and how often. You can gradually tweak this feeding schedule to fit your needs, but keeping it consistent the first week or so will help your puppy settle in at his new home.

Most puppies go to their new homes between 8 and 12 weeks of age. These little guys need frequent meals to fuel their growing bodies and ideally should be eating four meals a day. Toy breed puppies often benefit from more meals, as these pocket pups are prone to developing low blood sugar levels. Provide small, frequent meals to keep your puppy happy and healthy.

Growing Up

How often to feed a puppy changes as the puppy ages. Around 12 to 14 weeks of age, you can decrease your puppy to three meals a day. The amount you feed at each meal will continue to increase as your puppy grows.

Keep your puppy at three meals a day through most of his puppyhood.

As Puppy Becomes a Teenager

Sometime when your puppy is 6 to 9 months old, you can decrease to two meals a day.

There is no hard and fast rule for when to make this switch, and some puppies may benefit from continuing three meals a day for longer:

  • Toy breed puppies
  • Puppies who prefer to eat smaller meals
  • High energy puppies who need the extra food

Monitor your puppy’s weight and adjust the amount he eats and the number of meals as needed. Skinny puppies who play hard all the time will need more calories a day, while chunky pups who prefer to lounge and nap will need fewer calories.

Dog Memorial Gifts

By
CJ Puotinen
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Frame with picture of dog, collar and lily flower on white table indoors, closeup. Pet funeral
Losing a pet can be as emotionally challenging as losing a human relative, and personalized memorial items provide solace and comfort in this time of loss. Photo by Liudmila Chernetska, Getty Images

Our dogs’ lives are just too short, and their departures leave us grieving. Personalized memorial gifts are meaningful because they provide an emotional connection that helps keep our loyal companions’ spirits alive and accessible.

Popular memorials

There are many categories of personalized dog memorial gifts. Hand-made creations by talented artists tend to be the most expensive, but are the most likely to reflect a dog’s unique personality and spirit. But don’t discount the emotional impact of an individualized product made by a team of craftspeople, such as name-engraved jewelry, such as a-paw- or heart-shaped charm or pendant inscribed with the dog’s name. These tokens are available at a modest price but can very meaningful to a grieving person.

If you’re looking for an impactful gift for a friend who lost her cherished dog, consider one of the following dog memorial gifts. We’ve included some sample sources; the links are examples only, not an endorsement of any particular product.

  • Jewelry designed to contain a small amount of a pet’s ashes.
  • Hand-painted portraits, digital paintings, or charcoal sketches of departed dogs based on their photographs; try a search for “pet portrait memorial” to find examples in dozens of different styles and media.
  • Custom-made figures or statues that resemble departed dogs.
  • Framed photos with engraved metal plates, customized frames, photo books that show favorite moments in a dog’s life, or blankets imprinted with a dog’s photo.
  • Personalized plaques and stones, such as garden stones or memorial plaques engraved with the dog’s name or a meaningful message, designed for mounting or displaying indoors or out.
  • Keepsake boxes that store a dog’s collar, tags, favorite toy, or other belongings.
  • Urns and ash holders that safely store a dog’s ashes, or keepsake vials or containers that hold a small portion of those ashes.
  • Personalized candle holders or candles with a dog’s name or image.
  • Wind chimes customized with a dog’s name or paw prints.
  • Memorial benches for gardens or parks with inscriptions dedicated to a pet.
  • Planters for growing flowers or shrubs with engraved messages in a dog’s honor.
  • Christmas or holiday ornaments decorated with the dog’s image or name for seasonal display.
  • Memorial T-shirts, hats, caps, or other wearable items printed, embroidered, or air-brushed with the dog’s name or image.

Memorial benefits

Whenever we see or touch a memorial item, it can bring fond recollections and specific memories. Losing a pet can be as emotionally challenging as losing a human relative, and personalized memorial items provide solace and comfort in this time of loss.

Best of all, memorial gifts are designed to last, helping our pets’ memories endure. Well-designed memorials are aesthetically pleasing, so they are always appropriate.

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