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I suspect that the right amount is less than a full scoop/coffee cup. I weighed what feels like about the right amount to reduce Woody’s weight a bit. It was 5.42 oz, which is 0.85 oz less than a level cup and 1.6 oz less than a heaped cup. Credit: Nancy Kern
I’m infamous among my friends and colleagues for asking people if they are aware that their dogs are overweight. It’s because I have seen firsthand how fat dogs suffer in their senior years when they are too heavy to exercise without pain! And their burden of carrying extra pounds makes the ordinary aches and pains of arthritis even worse.
AND YET, I have to give myself a stern talking-to from time to time about helping my older dog stay trim.
Like many of us, when 9-year-old Woody was young, I could feed him any amount of food and he would just burn it right off; he was a highly active, athletic dog. But he’s older now, and his metabolism has slowed. He gains weight really easily now if I take my eye off the ball and slim him a few too many training treats, table scraps, and (especially), a little too much kibble in his bowl twice a day.
For years now, I’ve been using the same coffee cup to scoop the food for both he and 3-year-old Boone. Boone is a little smaller than Woody, but for the past few years, he has been receiving the same-sized scoop of kibble—initially because he was a growing puppy, and growing dogs need more calories per pound of body weight to support that growth, and more recently, because he’s naturally much more active than Woody is.
Woody used to run everywhere he went—even just from the sofa to the kitchen! But today, he only occasionally launches into a brief burst of zoomies; he tends to walk with the humans on our hikes, rather than with Boone and any other younger dogs who run ahead and run back and run ahead again for the entire hike.
So Woody is definitely burning fewer calories than Boone is, and for the past six months or so, I’ve really needed to reduce his portion of food a little, to prevent his weight gain. All I really need to do is scoop a tiny bit less for Woody’s serving than I scoop for Boone’s bowl—big deal! Except, I can’t seem to do this consistently! And the problem is that dang coffee cup!
Remember, kibble (especially a good-quality kibble) is extremely nutrient- and calorie-dense. A quick look at the bag tells me that this food contains 1,653 kcal per pound, which is 103.3 kcal per ounce. If I feed Woody a heaping coffee cup/scoop of food twice a day, he’s getting 1,450.33 calories just from his kibble every day (7.02 ounces times 103.3 calories times 2 times a day). But if I feed him less than a full coffee cup/scoop twice a day, he’ll be receiving 1,119.77 calories per day—330.56 calories less. That’s a very significant difference!
Like most coffee cups, it contains more than an actual cup of food, which was fine when that exact amount of food—heaped maybe just a tad above level—held just the right amount of food to hold Woody’s weight steady. But today, Woody really should be getting a little less than a level scoop in that cup—and there is my problem. How many pieces of kibble is the difference between a heaped cup, a level cup, and just a bit less than a level cup? How much less should he be getting?
The answer is: The amount should not be measured in cups—a coffee cup or any other kind! I need to start weighing both dogs’ food—not relying on a hurried glance to calculate the right amount. And the stupid thing is, I already have a kitchen scale that would make this task simplicity itself!
To make sure I absorbed the lesson I already know (but have been ignoring), I weighed the amount of food in my coffee cup/scooper when it was slightly heaped full of the kibble I am currently feeding, the amount of a level coffee cup full, and the amount I have been trying to feed (a little less than a full coffee cup). I also counted the individual pieces of kibble that made up each difference. My results:
A heaped cup (my coffee cup/scooper) contains 7.02 oz of the kibble I am currently feeding; a level coffee cup contains 6.28 oz, which is 0.74 oz less. (For the record, one level measuring cup contains 4.37 oz of this particular kibble.)
One of the best ways to bond with your dog is to spend time both working and playing with her. Credit: Jae Thomas
Building a relationship with your dog takes time and effort. Although it’s plenty of fun to bond with a new dog, your four-legged friend might not adore you instantly. Creating a positive relationship with your new dog will ensure she trusts you, has fun with you, and looks to you for guidance and comfort. Here’s how to connect with your dog through training, cooperative care, and more.
Make Sure Your Dog’s Needs are Being Met
Meeting all of your dog’s basic needs will help you bond—and will keep your pup at her happiest and healthiest. Choose a high-quality diet appropriate for your dog’s life stage and size.
Also ensure that your dog is getting adequate rest in a comfy dog bed or crate. Adult dogs may sleep up to 16 hours per day, and puppies may sleep even more. A well-rested pup will be more receptive to training and bonding with you.
Proper mental and physical enrichment will also help you build a strong relationship with your dog. Make sure your dog is getting an appropriate amount of exercise—both physical and mental. Taking your dog for regular walks, playing fetch, and trying out dog sports can help tire out high-energy dogs, while enrichment toys and training games will exhaust your dog mentally.
Bond with Your Dog by Creating a Routine
Creating a routine will keep things predictable for your dog, so she’ll know what to expect from you every day. Sticking to a consistent routine will help build trust with a new dog, and she’ll be more comfortable around you.
Try to feed your dog at approximately the same times every day, walk her at the same times, and play at the same times. Keeping to a consistent schedule will also help with housetraining if you’re bringing home a pup who isn’t potty trained just yet.
How to Build Trust with Your Dog
Building trust through choice-based training and consensual care will ensure your dog trusts you—and therefore wants to be around you!
Choice-based training like shaping allows dogs to have agency in their training. This type of training encourages pups to make their own decisions, since you won’t be telling them or asking them to do any specific skill. Your dog will also get rewarded for incremental steps towards the end goal, which will keep her engaged.
Practicing cooperative care is an excellent way to bond with your dog. Instead of forcing nail trims, vet exams, or teeth brushing, you can turn grooming and other veterinary tasks into consent-based games where your dog decides to opt in or opt out. Try using a dog scratch pad for nail trims, or teaching your dog a chin rest to opt in and out of ear and eye exams.
Learning to read your dog’s body language will help build trust. If your dog turns away, walks away, or gives any stress signals while you’re petting her, snuggling with her, or playing with her, make sure to stop the interaction. Stopping the stressful interaction will help your dog understand that she can trust you to keep her comfortable, and will make sure she doesn’t have to escalate her stress signals to snapping or biting.
You can also perform regular consent checks when petting your dog. If your dog opts out, respect her space. If she comes in for more pets and snuggles, you can keep giving her physical affection.
Make Training Fun
Positive, fear-free training is a great way to bond with your dog and learning new tricks can add to the fun! Credit: Jae Thomas
Not all training needs to be boring and focus on impulse control (although impulse control is important for a well-rounded dog). Game-based training is fun for your dog and can teach skills indirectly while helping you befriend your four-legged companion. Entertain your dog in the house by playing scent games, hide and seek, trying canine conditioning moves, and teaching new tricks. Make sure to reward often so your dog stays engaged!
If your dog enjoys training, trying dog sports like agility, rally, or canicross can also be fun ways to spend time together.
Focus On Engaging with Your Dog
If you’re bringing home a new dog, whether young or old, working on engagement is paramount for connecting with your new pet. Reward your dog whenever she chooses to engage with you, so she learns that coming to you is fun. Teaching engagement helps your dog cope with uncertainty and stress in the real world, and will help with recall training, too.
Playtime is an important way to build trust but be sure to find a game you and your dog can enjoy together. Credit: Jae Thomas
Build up your pup’s desire to play together by making play fun and rewarding. Whether your dog likes to tug, fetch, or chase the flirt pole, engage with her daily and make it fun by letting her win often.
Try not to take phone calls while walking your dog or watch TV while playing tug. You don’t want your dog to be distracted when spending time with you, so make sure you’re giving her your undivided attention, too.
Be Patient
Whether you’re bringing home a new puppy or adopting a senior dog from a local shelter, patience will get you a long way when it comes to bonding with your dog. Keep things positive, and move at the dog’s pace when introducing new people, places, and training. Never yell or get angry at your dog—this can damage your relationship. Remember: She’s trying her best to bond with you, too!
Most dogs will experience some form of dental disease during their lives. The right canine dental insurance can help mitigate the costs of preventing, diagnosing, and treating tooth problems in dogs. Credit: brian guest | Getty Images
By the time they’re three years old, most American dogs have an active dental disease, and its treatment can be expensive. Dog dental insurance might save thousands of dollars in dental care, but if your dog never needs a dentist, you could pay hundreds of dollars every year for insurance you never use. Or your insurance plan might not cover your dog’s treatment. Is canine dental insurance worth the cost?
How Dog Dental Insurance Works
Dental insurance for dogs is not sold alone. It’s sold as part of a comprehensive illness-and-accident pet insurance policy.
In most cases, you pay for veterinary services when they are performed, then submit a claim with itemized receipts to your insurance company for reimbursement. Dental coverage is subject to waiting periods specified in the pet insurance policy, usually between 2 and 30 days before a treated condition is eligible for reimbursement.
Pet health policies do not cover pre-existing conditions, so it makes sense to enroll at-risk dogs before they develop gingivitis or periodontal disease.
What Dog Dental Insurance Covers
Most canine dental insurance plans cover:
Treatment for periodontal disease, gingivitis, oral tumors, and stomatitis (inflammation of the mouth).
Emergency procedures such as treatment for illnesses and accidents including tooth extractions, root canals, X-rays, and prescription medications.
Treatment of fractures and other trauma injuries to the teeth and jaws.
Basic illness-and-accident policies do NOT cover the following, but they may be provided for in an add-on wellness policy:
Dental coverage in an illness-and-accident policy requires:
Annual dental examinations
Following your veterinarian’s specific recommendations for routine care
Annual Exams and Tooth Cleaning
Illness-and-accident policies that include dental coverage do not usually pay for annual exams or tooth cleaning unless they are part of the treatment plan for a dog who developed dental disease after being enrolled. Dental exams and tooth cleanings are preventive measures, and in most cases those expenses are covered or partially covered by optional add-on wellness policies.
Understanding Insurance Policy Terms
Every policy that pays for illnesses, accidents, and dental procedures for dogs will define the policy’s:
Annual limits (maximum payouts per year)
Reimbursement rates (such as 70% or 90% of eligible veterinary expenses, up to the policy’s limit)
Co-Insurance (the difference between the reimbursement rate and 100%, which is your responsibility)
Annual deductible rates (the amount you pay for covered conditions before being reimbursed)
What You Will Pay for Your Dog’s Dental Treatment
If your insured dog is in an accident or becomes ill, you are responsible for paying the policy’s deductible, plus your co-insurance percentage of remaining eligible expenses, plus any veterinary treatment fees exceeding the policy’s annual limit.
What Factors Affect the Cost of Canine Dental Insurance?
Monthly premiums for dog dental insurance depend on:
the type of coverage and its limits
the dog’s breed and age
the dog’s health condition
location (city and state)
the insurance provider and its underwriting criteria
deductibles and reimbursement rates
optional add-ons, such as wellness care plans
discounts for insuring multiple pets and in some cases registered service or therapy dogs or the owner’s military service.
Dental Insurance and Dog Breeds
Some breed-specific factors can affect dental coverage. Breeds with potentially higher dental insurance costs include small and toy breeds such as Chihuahuas, Yorkshire Terriers, Pomeranians, Maltese, Toy Poodles, and Shih Tzus, which often have crowded teeth in their small mouths, leading to plaque buildup and gum disease; brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds such as French and English Bulldogs, Pugs, Boxers, and Boston Terriers, whose compact skulls can overcrowd teeth; and breeds prone to periodontal pockets, tartar buildup, and gum disease such as Dachshunds, Shetland Sheepdogs, Greyhounds, and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. These dogs as well as Great Danes, Newfoundlands, and Irish Wolfhounds tend to have the high health insurance premiums.
Dental Insurance and Dog Age
The cost of dental procedures varies by location, the dog’s overall health, and age. Some companies do not insure dogs above a certain age, and the cost of coverage increases with age.
Is It Worth Buying Dog Dental Insurance?
Consider how an unexpected bill for your dog’s dental problems, illness, or an accident could affect your family’s finances. For example, treating periodontal disease or gingivitis can cost between $300 and $1,000. Simple extractions average $35 to $75 per tooth and most root canals cost between $1,000 and $3,000. Advanced oral surgery can be even more expensive.
According to organizations that track pet health expenses, the average vet visit for dogs in the United States is under $200. If your dog remains healthy and accident-free, the monthly premiums for pet insurance will quickly exceed the cost of routine checkups. But if your dog is injured or becomes seriously ill, his treatment can cost more than many pet owners can afford. Finding a balance between the risks your dog faces, insurance that covers those risks, and what you can afford requires research, but it doesn’t have to be daunting. The most common conditions treated by veterinarians involve dental illness, so if your dog is likely to develop tooth or gum problems, focus on the details of insurance policies that include dental care.
Comparing Canine Dental Insurance Plans
Thanks to their interactive websites, it’s easy to compare the policies and rates of leading pet insurance companies. Do this by visiting insurance websites and entering your dog’s breed, age, location, and other requested information. In addition to focusing on included dental procedures, study everything the policy covers and doesn’t cover. Most insurers will provide a sample policy for your review. Every insurance company invites prospective clients to connect with them by phone, chat, or email with questions about their plans.
Trupanion Pet Insurance from State Farm offers basic policies for dogs up to 14 years old that cover treatment for new dental illnesses and injuries, such as tooth extractions, caps, crowns, root canals, jaw fractures, tooth repairs, root abscesses, and tooth resorption. The policy does not cover pre-existing conditions, routine dental cleanings, or preventive care. The insurance reimburses 90% of eligible expenses after a lifetime (one-time) deductible has been paid for the condition. Trupanion pays veterinary fees directly to clinics at checkout (no reimbursement application needed) and there is no reimbursement maximum (no per-incident, annual, or lifetime limits).
Fetch Pet Insurance covers dental treatments for dogs regardless of age. Its dental coverage includes treatments for periodontal disease, oral tumors, fractured teeth, root canals, crowns, gum disease, tooth resorption, tooth extractions, and gingivitis. Pre-existing conditions, cosmetic and orthodontic procedures, including implants, fillings, and caps, are not included. Routine dental cleanings, which are not in the standard plan, are covered in a Fetch Wellness add-on. The standard policy has an annual limit of $5,000, annual deductible of $500, and 70% reimbursement rate.
Spot Pet Insurance covers dental expenses in its basic illness-and-accidents policy. The annual limit for illness and accident claims is $2,500, and the policy covers 70% or 90% of eligible expenses with deductibles of $250 or $500. An add-on wellness plan covers annual dental cleanings.
Pets Best Pet Insurance from Progressive covers dental emergencies, periodontal disease, extractions, and endodontic treatment for canine and carnassial teeth with its basic illness-and-accidents policy. There is no annual limit (maximum payment) to coverage. The basic policy has a $500 deductible and 80% reimbursement rate. An add-on policy covers dental cleanings.
ASPCA Pet Health Insurance covers tooth extractions for dental accidents, treatment for conditions like gingivitis and periodontal disease, and tooth cleanings prescribed for dental diseases in its basic policy. It does not cover cosmetic procedures. The website offers different combinations of annual limits, reimbursement rates, and deductibles, such as limits of $2,500, $5,000, $7,000, or $10,000; 70%, 80%, or 90% reimbursements; and $500, $250, or $100 deductibles. A Basic Preventive Care add-on policy covers preventive tooth cleaning.
Figo Pet Insurance provides dental coverage in its basic illness-and-accident policy, which covers expenses for the treatment of dental illness or accidents. Its most popular policy has a limit of $10,000, $750 deductible, and 70% reimbursement rate.
An optional Basic Wellness plan covers annual tooth cleanings.
Embrace Pet Insurance covers periodontal disease, abscessed teeth, misaligned teeth, gingivitis, tooth loss, jaw fractures, oral trauma, and tooth fractures in its illness-and-accident policy. Options include policies with annual limits of $5,000, $8,000, $10,000, $15,000, or unlimited; deductibles of $100, $250, $500, $750, or $1,000; and reimbursement rates of 70%, 80%, or 90%. A Wellness Rewards add-on program covers preventive dental cleaning.
Odie Pet Insurance includes dental care in its basic illness-and-accidents policy, which does not cover pre-existing conditions except for those that were cured at least 18 months before applying. Beginning at age 3 for periodontal disease coverage, teeth must be annually cleaned and examined under general anesthesia and any periodontal disease found during the exam must be treated before periodontal disease coverage becomes available. The basic policy pays up to $10,000 (annual limit) reimbursing 90% of veterinary fees with a deductible of $500. A Wellness Plus add-on plan covers annual tooth cleaning.
Pumpkin Care Health Insurance offers an illness-and accidents policy that covers dental illnesses such as periodontal disease and gingivitis and other dental procedures. It does not cover pre-existing conditions or dental cleaning except for dogs with active dental disease. Not covered are routine dental cleanings for dogs who do not have an active dental disease, caps, crowns, root canals, fillings, implants, or planing, even when related to periodontal disease. The most popular plan among its several options has an annual limit of $10,000 with a $500 deductible and 90% reimbursement rate. A Preventive Essentials add-on wellness plan covers dental cleaning.
Prudent Pet Insurance includes dental procedures in its basic illness-and-accidents policy, which has several options. The most popular has a $10,000 annual limit, $500 deductible, and 80% reimbursement rate. Annual cleanings are covered under a wellness add-on policy.
Lemonade Pet Insurance is available in only 38 states. Its basic illness-and-accident policy, which pays a maximum of $5,000 per year after a $250 deductible for 80% of covered claims, does not cover dental procedures. A Preventive+ add-on wellness policy includes routine dental cleaning and dental illness diagnosis and treatment, such as tooth extractions, root canals, gingivitis, and periodontal disease.
Accident-Only Policies
Some insurers offer inexpensive stand-alone accident-only policies that cover exam fees, diagnostics, and treatments for new injuries and emergencies related to accidents, such as bite wounds, cuts, broken bones, lodged foreign objects, and toxic ingestions. These are not dental policies, but they do pay for treatments to teeth injured in accidents. Accident-only policies are offered by ASPCA, Pets Best, Spot, Embrace, and Prudent Pet Insurance.
A flea infestation is dangerous for a young puppy. Plus, some
products for fighting fleas can be dangerous for that young dog.
Credit: Carolyn Ann Ryan | Getty Images
A puppy brings energy and excitement into your home, but it’s also a time for vigilance. While all dogs are susceptible to flea infestations, puppies less than 8 weeks old are particularly vulnerable to fleas, which can cause intense itching, skin irritation, and even more serious health problems such as anemia due to blood loss.
While flea infestations are a serious health issue for any dog, especially puppies, applying flea treatments requires caution as a young dog’s body is still developing. This article will address how to safely and effectively rid your puppy of these pesky parasites.
Consult Your Veterinarian First
Before doing anything, consult your veterinarian. According to the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine, while puppies should receive flea preventative treatment at 8 weeks of age, very young dogs have different tolerances to flea treatments than adult dogs. Products that are safe for older dogs may be harmful, even fatal, to puppies. Your vet will tell you the safest and most effective treatment option based on your puppy’s age, breed, weight, and overall health.
Age and Weight Restrictions for Flea and Tick Treatment
Many flea treatments are labeled with age and weight restrictions. It’s important to pay attention to these instructions because puppies have less developed livers and kidneys, making it harder for them to process certain chemicals.
“These products can be very concentrated, some intended to last in adults for up to three months,” according to Dr. Amanda Chambers, a Kansas City, Mo.-based veterinarian. “While it may not cause any harm, it is not considered safe as the products are labeled with an age limit for a reason.”
Chambers says that this may be because the product has been shown to cause adverse effects in pups under a certain age, or because the product has not been tested in patients under a certain age. “Regardless, it is best practice to follow the label and follow the guidance of your veterinarian when it comes to flea and tick treatments in young puppies.”
Using a product that is too strong or not appropriate for their age can lead to serious side effects, including seizures, tremors, and even death.
Read the Label and Between the Lines
The FDA offers this guidance on the safe use of flea and tick prevention products. “If using the product on a puppy, make sure it is labeled for that life stage and that your pet is at least the minimum weight specified on the label.”
Note that just because a product is labeled “all natural” or “organic” does not mean it is completely safe or without side effects. For example, the Animal Poison Control Center points out that essential oils, such as peppermint oil, citrus oils, cinnamon oil, and lemongrass oil, are ingredients in some topical flea control products. “Because these ingredients are touted as natural or organic alternatives to chemical insecticides, many pet owners assume they are safe.”
However, even when used according to instructions on the label, your puppy can have serious adverse reactions such as skin irritation, agitation or lethargy, vomiting, tremors, and seizures to some of these natural ingredients, even when the product is used according to label directions.
Another common misconception, says the Poison Control Center, about topical treatments is that the active ingredients are absorbed rapidly through the skin into the bloodstream. “A spot-on treatment study found fipronil concentrated in the sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin, the superficial epithelial layer (outermost layer of skin) surrounding pets’ hairs, and the exposed part of the hair shaft. In addition, topically applied imidacloprid (Advantage II, K9 Advantix) remains on the skin surface, concentrating in hair follicles and sebaceous glands, and is not absorbed. In contrast, moxidectin in Advantage Multi enters the bloodstream.”
Rather than applying chemical-based or natural products, one option is to use flea combs to remove fleas and flea eggs. Focus on areas where fleas tend to congregate, such as the base of the tail, belly, and groin.
You can also avoid potentially harmful treatments by using flea shampoos (see recipe for natural, homemade flea shampoo), which can be effective in killing adult fleas, but they often have limited residual activity. Be sure to choose a shampoo specifically formulated for puppies.
Treating the Environment for Fleas
While treating your puppy is essential, it’s equally important to address the flea infestation in your home. Fleas spend a significant portion of their lifecycle off the host, meaning that eggs, larvae, and pupae are likely present in your carpets, bedding, and furniture.
Vacuum regularly, paying attention to areas where your puppy spends most of their time. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag immediately after vacuuming to prevent re-infestation.
Wash your puppy’s bedding, blankets, and any other washable fabrics in hot water and dry them on high heat to kill fleas and their eggs.
In case of severe infestations, you may need to hire professional pest control services. Be sure to inform the pest control company that you have a puppy so they can use pet-safe products.
Treating and Preventing Fleas in Puppies – Rely on Your Vet
Treating fleas in puppies requires patience, diligence, and, most importantly, veterinary guidance. By following these steps, you can safely and effectively protect your new companion from the discomfort and potential health risks associated with flea infestations.
Caption: A flea infestation is dangerous for a young puppy. Plus, some products for fighting fleas can be dangerous for that young dog.
If you’re using a medicated shampoo on your dog, follow the instructions. If you must leave the shampoo on the dog for 10 minutes, keep him lathered and in the tub till 10 minutes is up.
Credit: mladenvalinovac | Getty Images
If you can successfully treat your dog’s skin problem with a medicated shampoo, it’s better for the dog, antibiotic resistance protocols, and for your wallet. The first step is to know what condition you’re dealing with.
The shampoos recommended in this article are available without a prescription. If they don’t work, see your veterinarian because your dog may need a prescription shampoo.
Itchy Dog Due to Fleas
If your dog is itchy, rule out external parasites like fleas first. A flea shampoo will kill the fleas on your dog at that moment and destroy the flea eggs on your dog’s skin, but there is no residual effect. That means, as soon as your dog dries, there’s nothing to deter the fleas from returning. So, take care of fleas, mites, and mange, first with a veterinary visit and prescription oral or topical preventatives.
Best Shampoo for Itchy Skin
Many dogs have mild seasonal allergies or simply itch from contact allergens or bites from insects like black flies or mosquitos. Some shampoos contain hydrocortisone, which is excellent for inflammation caused by allergies.
A good dog shampoo for itchy skin usually also contains aloe vera or colloidal oatmeal. Both are soothing anti-inflammatory ingredients that help reduce the itch and heal the irritation. So, don’t just grab a shampoo that claims it’s good for your dog’s skin. Read the ingredients label before you purchase and look for these ingredients.
Virbac Epi Smooth also includes colloidal oatmeal, and I have had success with this product against itchy skin due to allergies.
Note: Your dog might react to any shampoo due to an allergic reaction to one of the ingredients. If your dog is itchier after a bath, switch to a different shampoo. If your dog has particularly sensitive skin, use the shampoo to wash a small area first rather than giving the dog a full bath and wait 24 hours to see if there’s a reaction. Many dogs may require some oral medications to truly control itching. If the shampoo doesn’t work, consult your veterinarian.
Fungal infections, yeast infections, and bacterial infections are all possible causes of skin problems. Dogs with these skin infections may not seem overly itchy but have inflamed areas of skin, moist eczema, and a bad odor. They are clearly uncomfortable and unpleasant to be around. Dogs with mild yeast or fungal infections may respond to a medicated shampoo, but others will also need an oral medication.
I like shampoos with a mix of ketoconazole and chlorhexidine like VirbacKetochlor. Yeast and fungal infections often go hand in hand with bacterial infections. Th ketoconazole can attack the yeast and fugal parts, while the chlorhexidine goes after the bacteria.
It is extremely important to know what is causing your dog’s skin problem. If you purchase a shampoo for bacterial infections and your dog has a yeast infection, your results will not be the best. A veterinary visit for everything but a mild itch is well worth the investment. Your veterinarian will do a skin scrape, possibly a culture, and look at the cytology of the abnormal skin. For mild cases of skin problems, topicals may be all you need. More severe conditions often require oral medications as well.
When using a shampoo, be SUREto follow the directions exactly. If the directions say to leave the shampoo on for 10 minutes before rinsing, you need to adhere to that even as you wrestle your unhappy dog in the tub. Otherwise, you may not get the expected positive result. DO NOT USE DOG PRODUCTS ON CATS! It could be fatal. It is also not a good idea to use human products on dogs though usually not with such severe consequences.
Eye infections, allergies, and debris in the eye are among the more common reasons a dog’s eyes may look red or bloodshot. Credit: Freila | Getty Images
A dog’s eyes can appear red or bloodshot for many reasons—some of which are minor and will quickly resolve, and others which are much more serious.
Why Are My Dog’s Eyes Bloodshot?
General causes of red eyes in dogs include:
Debris caught in the eye, such as grass or dust
Scratch on the cornea
Allergies
Infection
Corneal ulcer
Entropion (eyelid folding inward) so that the eyelashes rub against the surface of the eye)
Exhaustion
Cancerous tumor inside or behind the eyeball
Having something caught in the eye causes irritation, and then your dog may make things worse by rubbing at the eye. Both the foreign object itself and your dog’s claws can potentially scratch the cornea. Entropion behaves similarly, except the eyelashes are a constant source of irritation that can’t be blinked or washed away.
Brachycephalic, flat-faced dogs have an increased risk of damage to the eyes. This is because their eyes typically stick out more than a “normal” dog’s would, making them more prominent and more vulnerable to being bumped.
Allergies cause irritation throughout the body, and this can be made worse if an allergen such as pollen gets in the eyes. Itchy eyes are no fun, and appear red both from inflammation and from chronic scratching and rubbing.
Bacterial infections typically only occur in the eye after it has been scratched, giving the bacteria a place to settle. These infections are very uncomfortable, and can also progress to corneal ulcers that eat through the cornea which can lead to rupture of the eyeball.
Other causes of bloodshot eyes are more predictable in appearance and show up in specific ways.
Bloodshot eyes in dogs will look different depending on what part of the eye is affected and the underlying cause. Here are the five primary ways that red eyes in dogs can manifest:
Conjunctival hyperemia: red, puffy tissue around the eye or eyes, similar to pink eye in humans
Corneal neovascularization: red lines (tiny blood vessels) stretching across the front of the eyeball where it should be clear
Episcleral injection: red lines crisscrossing the white part of the eye
Hyphema: solid red across the eye, blocking the iris and pupil
Subconjunctival hemorrhage: white part of the eye is solid red
These details are a bit disturbing to think about, but they give clues as to why your dog’s eyes are red and help your veterinarian to determine necessary testing and treatment.
Conjunctival Hyperemia
Conjunctival hyperemia in dogs can look similar to pink eye in humans. Credit: Hugo1313 | Getty Images
Red tissues around the eyes, or conjunctivitis, usually indicates a problem on the outer surface of the eye or in the surrounding conjunctival tissue. This could occur when your dog has an infection that is irritating the eye, or when something like entropion or allergies are causing your dog to rub her eyes frequently.
One unique variation of conjunctival hyperemia is “cherry eye,” when your dog’s third eyelid gland becomes inflamed and pops out. If your dog is suffering from cherry eye, she will have a cherry-red blob at the inner corner of one or both eyes. This problem can occur in any dog, but is most common in brachycephalic, flat-faced dogs.
Corneal Neovascularization
Tiny red blood vessels growing across the surface of the cornea happens either because the cornea has been damaged and your dog’s body is trying to protect it, or due to an autoimmune disorder.
Scratches and ulcers on the cornea that are not treated can progress quickly. The best way for your dog to try to heal these injuries is to grow blood vessels to bring nutrients and immune cells to the area.
Keratoconjunctivitis sicca, known as KCS or “dry eye,” is an autoimmune disorder where the eye does not produce adequate tears to lubricate the eye. A dry cornea is at risk of damage, so your dog’s body responds by producing thick mucous and possibly growing blood vessels to patch the damaged areas.
Chronic superficial keratitis, or “pannus,” is an autoimmune disorder where blood vessels and/or pigment grows across the cornea for no good reason. Left untreated, pannus can progress to blindness.
Both dry eye and pannus require lifelong treatment, but can be managed successfully.
Episcleral Injection
Red lines across the white part of the eye typically indicates a problem inside the eye itself. Some causes include glaucoma, uveitis, or cancer.
Glaucoma is when blocked tear ducts leads to a buildup of pressure inside the eye. This hurts! As well as having red lines across the sclera, the eye may also appear bulgy. Left untreated, glaucoma will result in blindness.
Uveitis is inflammation of the tissues inside the eyeball. It can happen because of infection, traumatic injury, or an autoimmune disorder. Unlike glaucoma, uveitis can cause abnormally low eye pressures.
Cancer around the eye is uncommon, but tumors can form inside the eyeball itself or behind the eyeball within the socket. As the tumor grows, it puts pressure on the eye, becoming uncomfortable and possibly impairing vision.
Hyphema
Bleeding in a dog’s eye (hyphema) is typically caused by trauma to the area but may also occur due to high blood pressure, clotting disorders, or inflammation. Credit: TRAVELARIUM | Getty Images
A blood-filled eye is usually the result of trauma to the eye. For example, this can occur when a dog has been hit by a car. Hyphema can also occur because of high blood pressure, clotting disorders, or uveitis (inflammation inside the eye).
Subconjunctival Hemorrhage
If the white part of the eye is solid red, there has probably been trauma to the eye. Strangulation or excessive pressure on the neck and clotting disorders can also cause this to happen.
How to Treat Red Eyes in Dogs
Your veterinarian will start by looking at your dog’s eyes and doing some basic tests to measure tear production and eye pressure and check for corneal scratches and ulcers. She will also consider any other symptoms your dog is experiencing and her health history.
The most common causes of bloodshot eyes in dogs can be diagnosed and treated by your regular veterinarian. Debris, cherry eye, dry eye, pannus, glaucoma, and corneal ulcers are all usually easy to identify. Complicated cases or more obscure eye issues may require a trip to a veterinary ophthalmologist (specialist eye doctor).
Treatment varies depending on what is causing your dog’s red eyes. Many eye disorders are treated with medicated drops or ointments that are applied directly to the eye. Conjunctivitis due to allergies will require treatment for the allergies in general, and clotting disorders require specialized treatments.
Some eye problems, such as severe corneal ulcers, some cases of glaucoma, entropion, and cherry eye, may require surgery.
When to Get Help for Bloodshot Eyes in Dogs
Eye problems can progress very quickly and threaten your dog’s sight. Because of this, we recommend making a vet appointment as quickly as possible if your dog’s eyes appear abnormal or she is scratching and rubbing at them. Squinting is also a cause for concern.
If your dog is in pain, she may need emergency care.
Don’t try to treat your dog’s bloodshot eyes on your own. Very few medications are safe to put in the eyes, and using the wrong eye medication (for example, steroid drops when the dog actually has an ulcer) can make the situation worse.
One thing that you can do to help your dog while waiting for a vet appointment is apply plain artificial tears. I really like the GenTeal Tears Severe Lubricant Eye Gel, which was recommended to me by a veterinary ophthalmologist. The gel lasts longer than typical artificial tears, providing extra relief for your dog.
Artificial tears won’t treat most eye problems but do provide soothing lubrication and can flush out debris in the eye.
Treats are an important part of positive reinforcement dog training but remember that they’re not the only way to reward a job well done! Toys, praise, cuddles, and getting to do something fun can also be used to reinforce desired behaviors. Credit: SDI Productions | Getty Images
Training with treats is cornerstone of positive reinforcement dog training. It’s dog-friendly, it’s fun and the basics are easy for trainers of all ages and skill levels.
At its core, the concept is simple: feed behaviors you want to see happen more often.
But simple doesn’t always mean easy. Understanding how, when and how often to use treats in training can help you achieve better results. Here are six tips to keep in mind:
1.Use Treats as a Lure or Reward—Not a Bribe!
Those who oppose using food in training often cite not wanting to “bribe” their dog as the reason why.
Newsflash: Positive-reinforcement dog trainers don’t want you to bribe your dog either!
What’s the difference? Here’s an easy way to think about it: When you use food to guide your dog into position (think treat on his nose), that’s a lure. When you ask your dog to do something, he performs correctly and you deliver a treat, that’s a reward. When you ask your dog to do something, he doesn’t do it, so you produce a treat and then he responds, that’s a bribe!
For best results, use treats as lures and rewards and try to avoid bribing your dog.
2. Remember to Fade the Treat Lure.
When you train behaviors with a food lure, a great goal is to fade the lure as quickly as possible—meaning, make sure your dog can perform correctly without the treat on his nose as a lure/guide. When your dog can confidently follow a food lure into position, do a couple of repetitions with the lure and then quickly ask for a third using the same hand motion, but without food in that hand. Reward with a surprise treat from the opposite hand after your dog performs correctly. This helps your dog learn to respond correctly in order to earn treats versus responding correctly because he sees treats.
3. Timing is Everything and Watch What You’re Rewarding.
Aim to deliver the treat within two seconds of your dog performing correctly. This helps your dog connect the treat to the behavior. Similarly, pay attention to what your dog is doing as you deliver the treat. If you’re working on “sit,” it’s best to reward your dog while his hind-end is on the floor. If you take too long to deliver the treat, he may sit, then stand. At that point, a treat is likely to reinforce a sit-stand combination.
4. Invest in the Reinforcement.
Frequently include praise and petting as you deliver treats—don’t just dole them out like an emotionless Pez dispenser. You and your dog are a team, so why not celebrate the occasion of your dog earning the treat? Plus, by pairing treats with petting and praise, you’re scientifically raising the value of your petting and praise through classical conditioning, making it worth more to your dog in the future, and when it’s delivered in the absence of treats.
Also, don’t be afraid to be generous with your treats—especially when your dog has a breakthrough moment in training or otherwise performs exceptionally well—like readily leaving a difficult distraction to come when called. Occasionally make a point to deliver multiple treats one at a time as you praise and pet your dog in ways she enjoys. Try to stretch the reinforcement over 10-15 seconds. Pay attention to her body language; if she’s leaning or ducking away from you as she eats, she’s likely saying, “Thanks for the food, but you’re coming on a little strong,” and you should consider changing your body language. (Are you leaning over your dog? A lot of dogs don’t enjoy this.)
These generous jackpots can be meaningful and help motivate your dog to perform correctly—with speed and enthusiasm—in the future. However, be careful not to overuse jackpot rewards. If jackpots are available all the time, they can lose value.
5. Reward Every Correct Response but Use Treats Intermittently.
Once your dog reliably performs the desired behavior without the lure, keep treats on the menu, but learn what else your dog enjoys and mix in offering those things as rewards, too. Once my dogs understand simple behaviors like “sit” and “down,” I make a point to use life rewards to reinforce those behaviors throughout the day.
For example, when I know my dog want me to open the door so he can go outside, I can ask for a “sit” and the treat becomes me opening the door. When we see a friend on a walk, I can ask him to “lie down,” and the treat becomes me releasing him to visit our friend. Anything your dog wants—that you can safely allow him to have or experience—can be used in place of a treat to reward his behavior. It’s also a great way to establish a strong sense of teamwork between you and your dog.
6.It’s OK to Keep Treats on the Menu Forever. (Yes, really!)
Every positive-reinforcement trainer I know continues to use food throughout their dogs’ lives—at least in some circumstances. In my own home, I keep treats in a dish on my desk to reinforce my dog for not barking at the mail delivery person. When I have an opportunity to let my dog explore an area off-leash, I use treats to reinforce coming when called, because I greatly appreciate my dog’s decision to hit the pause button on his exploration simply because I asked him to.
Continuing to use treats (as rewards, not bribes) is not a sign that your dog is not trained—it’s a sign of an enlightened trainer who understands the importance of offering a meaningful reward in exchange for a job well done.
Doodle dogs are thought to combine the best traits of their parents, but there are no guarantees.
There’s no doubt that Doodles are cute. The fluffy, curly coated puppies can make anyone’s heart melt, but should you buy one from a breeder? The main draws of Doodles—a “hypoallergenic” coat and a family-friendly temperament—are not always consistent.
Who Invented Doodle Dogs?
The first popularized Doodle was a Labrador Retriever and Poodle mix, bred in 1989 by Wally Conron as a guide dog prospect. He aimed to create a dog with the temperament of a Lab, but the non-shedding coat of a Standard Poodle for a woman who needed a guide dog, but whose husband had dog allergies.
Conron bred one of his Labs to a Standard Poodle, and ended up with a litter of three puppies. After sending hair and saliva samples for testing, it turned out that only one dog of the litter of three inherited the non-shedding coat. After sending along a puppy to the woman, Conron was left with two guide dog prospects that no one wanted since they were mixed breeds. He then began marketing them as a new breed called a Labradoodle with help from the Guide Dogs Victoria PR department, and the trend caught on.
In a 2014 interview with Psychology Today, Conron said that he regrets popularizing Doodle breeding. “I opened a Pandora’s box, that’s what I did,” he said. “I released a Frankenstein. So many people are just breeding for the money. So many of these dogs have physical problems, and a lot of them are just crazy.”
Why are Doodle Dogs So Popular?
While Doodles typically share some traits with their Poodle parent, there are no guarantees regarding which traits they will inherit. Credit: Madeline Block
The original marketing ploys of the Labradoodle live on even today. Poodle mixes are often described as wonderful family pets that come in all colors and sizes, have good temperaments, and are hypoallergenic. Designer dogs and mixed breeds like Doodles are often marketed as healthier than purebreds, though this idea has since been debunked.
Whether the above points are true or not depends on multiple factors, including the health of the parent dogs, which two breeds are being mixed together, the socialization that the breeder does, and more.
“I think [Doodles] are popular because a lot of them are cute and the general population is not informed about ethical breeding practices,” says Madeline Block, a Doodle and Poodle owner and dog content creator based in Cincinnati, Ohio. “There is a lot of biased misinformation that people find and they are often advertised as easy, family friendly dogs which a lot of people are drawn to.”
Are Doodles Hypoallergenic?
Doodle mixes are hybrids of two different breeds, not a true breed. This matters in that the results of breeding a purebred dog like a Golden Retriever or a Labrador Retriever and a purebred Poodle will not be consistent across a litter. Because of this, breeders can’t promise all puppies will be non-shedding (there is no such thing as a truly hypoallergenic dog). Though Doodles are marketed as having only the best traits of each breed, that’s not quite how genetics work.
When breeding dogs of two different coat types, you can end up with a lot of different options. There are certain genes the puppies can inherit from the parent dogs that make them shed more or less as well, so you truly can’t predict their level of shedding. You can end up with puppies that are shedding, low-shedding, or a mix of the two.
“Many think that Doodles are hypoallergenic but that is not true,” says Block. “They may produce less allergens and people with allergies may do okay with them but a dog that is a mix between a low shedding dog (Poodle) and a shedding dog (like a Golden, Aussie, Bernese, etc.) still has the chance to shed and produce allergens.”
Block also explains that Poodle mixes can be prone to matting. She says that when you mix multiple types of hair together, the hair essentially becomes Velcro. Loose hairs get stuck in the coarse outer coat, and mats can form, which can be very painful for the dog. “This is one reason why there are so many Doodles that get shaved down at the groomer because people think that they won’t shed and they don’t maintain the coat regularly,” says Block.
Can Doodles be Ethically Bred?
Ethically bred purebred dogs, like Arteaga’s Poodles, are extensively health tested and proven. Credit: Jo Brady
Some of the primary goals of ethical breeding are to improve health, temperament, and ability with each generation of dogs. There is also a duty of care when it comes to how puppies and breeding dogs are raised, handled, and cared for throughout their lives. Breeding dogs ethically is a difficult task even when extensive records have been kept on the dogs being bred. It’s hard enough for breeders of purebred dogs, who often have access to breed databases, health records, and other breeders familiar with the genetic lines in question. Breeders of Doodles and other designer dogs rarely have similar resources, making it even more difficult—and therefore less likely—to breed such dogs ethically.
Violet Arteaga, a breeder of Poodles and Collies located in Broomfield, Colorado, explained some of what it takes to be an ethical preservation breeder, which many Doodle breeders don’t meet. Though not exhaustive, the main points we’ll explore are health, breeding proven dogs, striving to better the breed, and not contributing to overcrowded shelter populations.
Australian Labradoodles: Beyond the Doodle Stereotype
As mentioned in the article above, Doodle breeders rarely have access to breed databases, health records, and a community of fellow breeders. Rarely, however, is not ‘never.’
Created in 2004, the Australian Labradoodle Association of America (ALAA) provides all of those resources. In addition to publishing a breed standard, the organization maintains a database of registered dogs that currently includes over 138,000 individuals, documenting pedigrees and keeping records of health testing results.
“The Australian Labradoodle’s carefully documented lineage and ongoing development through the ALAA make it a distinct and purposefully developed breed,” says the ALAA. “There is no “doodle” like the original Australian Labradoodle—the ALD.”
The group also works to educate breeders on responsible breeding practices, has a published code of ethics, and offers membership to breeders that meet its standards. In order to maintain those standards, breeders are required to health test and DNA profile breeding animals before registering a litter with the ALAA. The health testing requirements are tiered, with breeders that test beyond the minimum (hip and elbow testing) being awarded silver, gold, or platinum “paws.” According to ALAA, the majority of breeders registered with the organization have gold or platinum status.
“By providing resources and guidance, the ALAA empowers breeders to make informed decisions when selecting breeding pairs,” the organization says. “This focus on responsible breeding practices ensures that the Australian Labradoodle breed continues to evolve in a positive direction, prioritizing health and temperament alongside conformation and coat quality.”
When it comes to what makes Australian Labradoodles unique, the ALAA points to generations of selective breeding that began with crossing Labradors and Poodles and added English and American Cocker Spaniels to the lineage with the goal of refining the breed’s temperament, coat, and structure.
According to the breed standard established by the ALAA, Australian Labradoodles will demonstrate consistent physical traits and appearance, a gentle, affectionate temperament, intelligence and trainability, and suitability for families, individuals, and service/therapy roles. The standard currently includes three sizes (miniature, medium, and standard) and three distinct coat types (fleece, wool, and hair).
As the name suggests, the Australian Labradoodle was originally developed in Australia. ALDs were first exported to the U.S. and Europe in the early 2000s.
To learn more about the ALAA and the Australian Labradoodle, visit alaa-labradoodles.com.
Kate O’Connor
Health Testing
Firstly, Arteaga notes the importance of starting out with good breeding stock. Arteaga is referring to the breeding dogs’ health history and lineage. To breed healthy, sound puppies, a breeder needs to start with dogs who have been proven (more on what that means later) and health tested for generations to avoid breeding dogs with hereditary health problems.
“Health testing is a huge thing for Poodles,” she says. “Hips, elbows, eyes, heart and much, much more is a must. Studying pedigrees and selecting the right stud for your girls (looking at what you need/want to improve on) is also important.”
Preservation breeders often show their purebred dogs to prove they’re worthy of being bred. Credit: Violet Arteaga
Most ethical preservation breeders test their dogs’ hips, elbows, and eyes before breeding them. They may also test for heart, thyroid, and genetic conditions specific to their breed. These tests often cost hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars depending on how many need to be done.
Recommended health tests vary by breed. Looking for a breeder who is involved in the national parent club of the breed you’re interested in is a good starting point. These parent clubs act as a guiding body for breeders, typically publishing a code of ethics and list of recommended health testing for their breed.
The codes of ethics of many national parent clubs explicitly and strongly advises against mixed breedings. The Poodle Club of America, for example, states that members should “Never intentionally allow a Poodle to be bred to any other breed.”
Though there is nuance to this, generally, anyone breeding Poodle mixes would not have a dog from extensively health tested and proven lines since most ethical breeders are interested in preserving and bettering their specific breed. This means that Doodle breeders are often starting out their programs with sub-par breeding dogs (i.e. Dogs that haven’t been proven or health tested, and dogs who came from questionable breeders themselves).
This means that you’re more likely to have health or temperament issues by buying a puppy from these breeders. Is it possible you could get a perfect puppy with no issues? Yes. But you’re not stacking the deck in your favor.
Remember: just because a dog is purebred does not mean it’s well bred. A Doodle breeder can easily hop on the internet and find an “AKC registered Poodle” to use in their Doodle breeding program. AKC registration is not an indication of proven or health tested dogs.
What Does It Mean to Have a Proven Dog?
Having a proven dog means that the dog has met standards designed to demonstrate that he or she is worthy of being bred. Proven dogs have either been shown at conformation dog shows and been evaluated structurally against their breed standard or have proven that they’re able to do other work, like dog sports, hunting, herding, or guarding livestock.
Conformation dog shows are a way to judge a dog against the breed standard (a written description of the breed’s physical characteristics) by an unbiased third party. The whole point of these shows is proving that your dog is worthy of being bred. Proven dogs are often conformation champions in the AKC, UKC, or other registries, and many have titles for other sports.
Doodles can be proven in dog sports (though they need to be spayed or neutered to compete in AKC-specific sports), therapy work, and service dog work. However, because they are a mixed breed, they cannot be shown in conformation shows. Since there are so many different kinds of Doodles, there is no singular breed standard.
Why are Doodles So Expensive?
In short, Doodles are expensive because they are popular. Many people will pay a lot for the promise of a cute, friendly, healthy, hypoallergenic dog—even if what they get might not match up with their expectations. Unfortunately, this also means there is no shortage of people looking to make money by breeding them and prices go up accordingly.
“My Doodle cost more than my well-bred Poodle and that is crazy to think about considering how much my Poodle breeder did that my Doodle breeder did not do,” says Block.
Do Doodles Make Good Pets?
Doodles can make good pets, but it can be extremely difficult to find one that comes from a responsible, ethical breeder. Credit: Madeline Block
Doodles can potentially make good pets. There’s always a possibility that you’ll get a dog with a good temperament, good health, and a non-shedding coat when you buy a Doodle. The issue is that these traits are not always consistent.
“With getting a dog from a mixed breed breeder, you never know what you’re going to get in regards to temperament, health, coat, size, etc.,” says Arteaga.
However, many people love their Doodles, despite the unpredictability. “There are a lot of common misconceptions about Doodles but I would like to also note that there are a lot of people who actually really like their Doodles and they make fine pets,” says Block.
Block herself owns a Poodle mix who works as a therapy dog. “Once I became informed about ethical breeding practices, I knew my next dog would be a Poodle which was exactly what I was looking for,” she says. “I wanted another dog that could do therapy work that was more sound overall for the work.”
I was more concerned that Woody’s weight gain was going to trigger a lecture from my vet, but we never even got there, since both dogs had other more pressing health problems that required attention. Credit: Nancy Kerns
I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. The night before their appointment, I groomed both dogs and trimmed their nails. Both dogs were due for a Leptospirosis vaccine, and Woody also was due for a rabies vaccine. Beyond that, my only concerns were about a few lumps on Woody. He has several small lumps that the vet mapped at his exam a little more than a year ago, and I was worried that a couple of them had grown. Also, I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter.
But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.
After a peek in Woody’s ears, she said matter-of-factly, “He’s got an ear infection.” Now, about three days prior, on a walk out in our local wildlife area, he had gone swimming in a lake, and in the course of that swim, had gotten water in his ear. He hates getting water in his ears, and he shook his head and held it crookedly for the remainder of our walk—but by the time we drove home, he had seemingly forgotten all about it and I hadn’t noticed any more head-shaking or a head tilt.
The infection wasn’t severe—though, without treatment, it probably would have gotten more severe. The vet prescribed a thorough ear-cleaning, plus a prescription ear-drop put in his ears once a day for seven days.
My vet, a Fear-Free practitioner, is happy to meet and examine her patients on the floor, where they are more comfortable. This made Boone very happy. Credit: Nancy Kerns
Other than that, she measured all of his lumps, and found that a couple of them had grown, but not by very much. On his last lump-exam, she had extracted a bit of fluid from several, and was satisfied that they are lipomas.
I declined blood tests on this visit, but will ask for them on our next visit.
Then it was Boone’s turn. I was quite confident she wouldn’t find anything wrong with Boone—but she did.
“He’s got pyoderma,” she said after running her hands through his coat as he rolled on his back on the floor of the exam room. “What?!” I exclaimed. I hadn’t noticed anything wrong with his skin or coat, and I had examined him very thoroughly the night before (I thought).
But then she pointed out some redness on his tummy and chest, and said, “Look; this is an epidermal collarette.” She pointed to a small round mark on his skin, and then another. I was astonished. About two years ago, I was editing an article about folliculitis—another word for pyoderma—and I had been tasked with trying to find a stock photo of epidermal collarettes. I hadn’t been able to find a stock photo of one anywhere; finally the veterinarian/author was able to find one for us to run with the article. But here they were on my own dog! Ack!
The red circle is a circle of pus-filled infected hair follicles called an epidermal collarete. The darker circle below is an older lesion in an early stage of healing. Credit: Nancy Kerns
The vet also pointed out some small things that looked like pimples. Perhaps because I was so aghast at not being observant enough about my own dog’s skin, she said, “We’ll lance one of those and I’ll put some of the exudate on a slide and stain it so you can see the bacteria,” she said.
She did all those things and DANG if that slide wasn’t just LOADED with bacteria. Poor Boone was fighting an infection of his own!
In this photo, taken through a microscope, you can see several red blood cells (the pinkish blobs), white blood cells (clear blobs containing some purple dots of bacteria that they are consuming), and lots and lots of tiny purple dots, which are the bacteria infecting Boone’s skin. Credit: Nancy Kerns
Even though I had been rubbing Boone’s tummy when I had clipped his nails the night before, and I had noticed that his skin was a very little bit red here and there, I hadn’t thought it was very serious. Again, when we had been out in the wildlife area a few days before, he had been running through some reeds at the edge of the lake (in vain pursuit of ducks), and I just assumed the redness was irritation caused by the reeds. I certainly hadn’t noticed him licking or scratching at the area. But here we were, with a skin infection!
My vet gave me the option of putting Boone on oral antibiotics, or to start with a topical approach: medicated baths twice a week for a couple of weeks, and spraying his skin twice daily with an antibacterial solution. Though it’s a lot of work, I opted for the latter, in an effort to not wreck his internal microbiome if we didn’t have to.
Anyway, while these two health problems that I hadn’t noticed aren’t terribly dramatic—it’s not like the vet had detected a previously undiagnosed fatal condition—they are good examples of why our dogs need to be seen by a primary care veterinarian at least once annually. While the expenditure can be significant (especially at visits when you do run blood tests), catching minor conditions before they can bloom into major ones is critical for keeping your dog healthy and comfortable. If your dog hasn’t seen a vet for a year, it’s time to make an appointment!
Dogs eating chocolate was the fourth most common reason people called ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2024. Credit: Denise Panyik-Dale | Getty Images
“I went to the gym and forgot that I put a new candy bowl out with chocolate heart candies wrapped in aluminum foil,” Owen says. “When I got home, the now-empty bowl was on the floor.”
Even worse, Owen didn’t know which one of her dogs was the culprit. “I had three Labradors and no idea what combination of them ate the chocolate,” she said.
It turns out that Owen may not have been the only worried dog mom on the phone with pet poison control that day. Dogs who gulp down chocolate are among the most common calls to the APCC hotline.
“What we call the chocolate holidays tend to be busier: Valentine’s Day, Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas,” says veterinarian Tina Wismer, senior director of toxicology at the APCC. “Anytime there’s chocolate left out, dogs will find it.”
Dogs have a keen knack for finding, opening, and devouring many things they aren’t supposed to.
The APCC received more than 451,000 calls from pet parents last year who needed immediate answers: Could what their dog gobbled down cause a life-threatening problem? The organization crunched its data and just released its annual list of the top ten toxins that pets managed to ingest the most.
The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has more than 50 veterinarians and 120 support staff, all trained in toxicology, working around the clock, day and night.
For a $95 consultation fee, an APCC case worker takes detailed information from pet parents, including a dog’s weight, what they ate, and the quantity.
Even if a dog wolfed down multiple types of products (as this author’s dog did once: a box of chocolate chip cookies and a box of fiber bars), the APCC likely has each item’s ingredients in their database, which was started in the 1970s. It includes thousands of household products, foods, plants, toxins, and medications that dogs decided were edible.
The staff calculates the risk and gives pet caregivers advice—which generally ranges from “Your dog will likely be fine” to “Watch for these signs of trouble” or “Head to the animal ER right now!” The APCC assigns each case an ID number, which is crucial to give the medical team if treatment is needed. Many veterinarians rely on the APCC’s expertise.
“Sometimes people come to the emergency room after their dog eats something that we’re not 100% familiar with,” says emergency room veterinarian Carly Fox with the Schwarzman Animal Medical Center in New York City. “We have the owners call pet poison control in the waiting room so we can contact their experts afterward. It is absolutely worth the call; it’s truly unbelievable how much the APCC knows.”
The APCC also knows what lifestyle trends are going on in peoples’ homes across the country by crunching the top calls they receive.
“What is happening in veterinary medicine reflects what’s happening on the human side of things,” Dr. Wismer says. “During COVID, we had a ton of animals being exposed to cleaning products. Since COVID has ended, cleaning product calls dropped.”
The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s Top Calls
So, what are the top calls pet parents and caregivers made to the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center? What is toxic to dogs? What is poisonous to dogs?
Here’s what topped the charts in 2024.
1. Over-the-Counter Medications
Calls about pets chomping down over-the-counter medications, like dietary supplements, vitamins, and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) pain medications like ibuprofen and naproxen, have remained steady over the last few years as the number one call the APCC receives.
The ingredients in some dietary supplements may be helpful for humans, but they can be dangerous to dogs, and certain over-the-counter pain medications can be so hazardous that some dog ingestion cases Dr. Fox gets make her cringe.
“NSAID toxicity can be really bad,” Dr. Fox says. “It depends on how much the dog ingests and their weight, but it can cause GI upset, that can progress to GI ulceration, bleeding, acute kidney failure, and in really severe cases, it can cause seizures, comas, and death.”
2. Human Food and Drinks
Pets that gobble down food and drinks made for people held their spot at number two on the list from years past.
And it’s not only onions that can cause problems. “Leeks, shallots, chives, and other foods that are part of the allium family all have a compound called N-propyl disulfide that can damage red blood cells and make your animal fairly sick if ingested at high enough doses,” Dr. Fox says.
3. Human Prescription Medications
Calls from people saying, “My dog ate my medication,” remained in the third spot this year. Pets who ingested heart, antidepressant, and ADHD medications were the most common cases.
The APCC says they’re seeing a trend with some callers saying, “Oh my gosh! My dog got into my grandma’s purse and ate her pills!” These stories are a good reminder that not all guests may realize some dogs are curious, always-hungry, nosy foragers who will investigate anything new in their homes.
“Visitors, like grandma or your child’s friends, may not know that their purse or backpack on the floor can be very dangerous,” Dr. Wismer says. “Not only do you have to train the people in your household not to leave anything your dog can get into around, but you also need to train your guests.”
4. Chocolate
As Owen learned, chocolate is a dog fan favorite and is fourth on the APCC’s list.
Dark and baking chocolate are typically the most dangerous to dogs due to the higher amounts of caffeine and theobromine, a compound in cocoa plants. These ingredients can cause dehydration, an increased heart rate, blood pressure spikes, and even seizures.
When it comes to chocolate (and human food), don’t underestimate a dog’s creativity and drive to get what they want.
“The other day, we had a call, and a dog literally slid a chair across the floor so he could hop onto the chair, then onto the table to eat brownies,” Dr. Wismer says. “Sometimes they’re smarter than we are, so you need to protect yourself and protect them as best you can.”
5. Veterinary Products
Veterinary products for pets are number five on the list. This one is a good news, bad news situation: More and more pet medications smell yummy and enticing so dogs eat them, but that can become a problem.
“Many people have a difficult time giving their dog pills,” Dr. Wismer says. “So, they make some very tasty and flavorful so the dog will take them easily. But we’re seeing an increase in animals ingesting higher doses because we’re making more chewable formulations. That means, if you don’t put that bottle away, they could eat the entire bottle of pills.”
Other Top Pet Poisoning Concerns
Other top-ranking pet poisoning calls to the APCC included insecticides, rodenticides (rat and mouse poison), household products, cleaners, batteries, recreational drugs, fungi, and plants.
Of the over 450,000 calls received ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2024, dogs consuming over-the-counter human medications were the most common. Credit: Courtesy of ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
Of course, prevention, supervision, and management are the best ways to avoid having a dog poison control emergency, but it can take a split second for a pooch to eat something that mistakenly falls on the floor, a toddler gives him, or he finds on the street during a walk. Weird, unexpected, and bizarre things happen to even the best pet parents.
If a dog does manage to consume something suspicious or worrisome, immediately call the APCC, a veterinarian, or an animal hospital. The sooner a dog gets help, the better the outcome will be.
“We may be able to induce vomiting or give a dose of activated charcoal to stop the absorption of whatever they ate,” Dr. Wismer says. “But once they’re already having problems, once they’re symptomatic, that limits what we can do.”
Up to 10% of the cases Dr. Fox handles in the emergency room daily involve dogs that have swallowed something toxic or poisonous.
She says some of her most heartbreaking cases are when pet parents avoid bringing their dogs to the ER because they fear the cost. If a dog is in danger, waiting will only risk their lives, which could result in an even more significant medical bill.
“It kills me when people don’t bring their dog in right away because our biggest ability to save your dog’s life is within the first couple of hours of ingestion,” Dr. Fox says. “There are so many things we can do to try to prevent that toxicity from progressing. Some people come in and say, ‘My dog ate all this ibuprofen yesterday.’ Well, it’s now too late. So, we cross our fingers and do what we can.”
Peace of Mind
In Jennifer’s case, she quickly got on the phone with the APCC and brought peace of mind. Fortunately, she still had the candy bag and could tell her case worker precisely what was eaten. The toxicology team calculated her dogs’ weights and the amount of missing chocolate and let her know she didn’t need to load her four-legged crew in the car and race them to the ER.
“Thankfully, the bag was small, and even if one of them ate the entire bag, they were still in the ‘safe’ with a likely tummy ache zone,” Owen said. “I found the culprit through some shimmery, decorative, foil-filled poop.”
Sucralfate is available as a liquid or a tablet that you crush, mix with warm water, then give to your dog.
Credit: Frazao Studio Latino | Getty Images
Sucralfate is a human medication used off-label in dogs for ulcers, vomiting, and irritations along the gastrointestinal tract from the mouth to the small intestine, potentially even as far as the colon. It can help with stomach ulcers, esophageal erosions, oral ulcers, and inflammatory bowel disease.
Brand names for sucralfate include Carafate and Sulcrate. This medication is a complex salt that acts by combining proteins in the irritated areas to provide a protective cover over erosions and ulcers so they can heal.
The drug separates into two compounds once in the stomach: sucrose octasulfate and aluminum hydroxide. Sucrose octasulfate coats injured tissues. Bile acids may be absorbed onto it, and it appears to stimulate mucosal production of prostaglandins. In these situations, the prostaglandins act to protect the cells on the stomach’s internal surface. Aluminum hydroxide helps with acid indigestion.
How to Give Your Dog Sucralfate
This prescription medication is available as tablets or a liquid. If you use tablets, you must crush them, such as with a small mortar and pestle, and mix them with warm water. The mixture can then be given with a plastic syringe in the corner of your dog’s mouth.
Give sucralfate on an empty stomach so the medication has access to the affected areas. Wait two hours after that before giving any other medications.
Due to its protective covering of the mucosa, sucralfate can interfere with the absorption of many medications. These medications include, but are not limited to, antibiotics such as fluoroquinolones and tetracyclines and antifungals like ketoconazole. In addition, fat-soluble vitamins and the thyroid medication levothyroxine will have decreased absorption, potentially requiring dosage adjustments.
Digoxin, a cardiac medication, will also have altered absorption. In addition, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, or NSAIDs, will not be well-absorbed.
Ideally, sucralfate is used short term to allow for mucosal healing.
Sucralfate for Dogs Side Effects
Sucralfate should not be used in dogs who have constipation as it will exacerbate the problem (constipation is a potential side effect). Conversely, some dogs will experience diarrhea and loss of appetite. While the amount of aluminum is unlikely to cause serious problems, it would best to avoid sucralfate for use in dogs with known renal problems.
Allergic reactions such as hives or difficulty breathing and behavior changes are rarely seen. Lethargy is the most common behavior change seen.
Sucralfate is not as powerful as protein pump inhibitors such as omeprazole, which are recommended by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine for treating gastric ulcers and erosions. Sucralfate is not a true analgesic, so there is minimal pain relief, but it can help your dog who is vomiting and in discomfort by acting as a physical barrier.
My dogs had no problems when I used it short term, but crushing the pill and getting it to dissolve can be a challenge! (A good mortar and pestle is worth the investment.) Keep track of the dosage timing can also be tricky when dealing with your own work schedule. Consult the prescribing veterinarian with problems or concerns.
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
