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How to Treat Bloodshot Eyes in Dogs

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Bloodshot eyes in dogs can have a number of causes from allergies to serious eye infections.
Eye infections, allergies, and debris in the eye are among the more common reasons a dog’s eyes may look red or bloodshot. Credit: Freila | Getty Images

A dog’s eyes can appear red or bloodshot for many reasons—some of which are minor and will quickly resolve, and others which are much more serious.

 

 

 

Why Are My Dog’s Eyes Bloodshot?

General causes of red eyes in dogs include:

  • Debris caught in the eye, such as grass or dust
  • Scratch on the cornea
  • Allergies
  • Infection
  • Corneal ulcer
  • Entropion (eyelid folding inward) so that the eyelashes rub against the surface of the eye)
  • Exhaustion
  • Cancerous tumor inside or behind the eyeball

Having something caught in the eye causes irritation, and then your dog may make things worse by rubbing at the eye. Both the foreign object itself and your dog’s claws can potentially scratch the cornea. Entropion behaves similarly, except the eyelashes are a constant source of irritation that can’t be blinked or washed away.

Brachycephalic, flat-faced dogs have an increased risk of damage to the eyes. This is because their eyes typically stick out more than a “normal” dog’s would, making them more prominent and more vulnerable to being bumped.

Allergies cause irritation throughout the body, and this can be made worse if an allergen such as pollen gets in the eyes. Itchy eyes are no fun, and appear red both from inflammation and from chronic scratching and rubbing.

Bacterial infections typically only occur in the eye after it has been scratched, giving the bacteria a place to settle. These infections are very uncomfortable, and can also progress to corneal ulcers that eat through the cornea which can lead to rupture of the eyeball.

Other causes of bloodshot eyes are more predictable in appearance and show up in specific ways.

Bloodshot eyes in dogs will look different depending on what part of the eye is affected and the underlying cause. Here are the five primary ways that red eyes in dogs can manifest:

  • Conjunctival hyperemia: red, puffy tissue around the eye or eyes, similar to pink eye in humans
  • Corneal neovascularization: red lines (tiny blood vessels) stretching across the front of the eyeball where it should be clear
  • Episcleral injection: red lines crisscrossing the white part of the eye
  • Hyphema: solid red across the eye, blocking the iris and pupil
  • Subconjunctival hemorrhage: white part of the eye is solid red

These details are a bit disturbing to think about, but they give clues as to why your dog’s eyes are red and help your veterinarian to determine necessary testing and treatment.

Conjunctival Hyperemia

Conjunctival hyperemia or an infection of the tissue surrounding the eye can cause bloodshot eyes in dogs.
Conjunctival hyperemia in dogs can look similar to pink eye in humans. Credit: Hugo1313 | Getty Images

Red tissues around the eyes, or conjunctivitis, usually indicates a problem on the outer surface of the eye or in the surrounding conjunctival tissue. This could occur when your dog has an infection that is irritating the eye, or when something like entropion or allergies are causing your dog to rub her eyes frequently.

One unique variation of conjunctival hyperemia is “cherry eye,” when your dog’s third eyelid gland becomes inflamed and pops out. If your dog is suffering from cherry eye, she will have a cherry-red blob at the inner corner of one or both eyes. This problem can occur in any dog, but is most common in brachycephalic, flat-faced dogs.

Corneal Neovascularization

Tiny red blood vessels growing across the surface of the cornea happens either because the cornea has been damaged and your dog’s body is trying to protect it, or due to an autoimmune disorder.

Scratches and ulcers on the cornea that are not treated can progress quickly. The best way for your dog to try to heal these injuries is to grow blood vessels to bring nutrients and immune cells to the area.

Keratoconjunctivitis sicca, known as KCS or “dry eye,” is an autoimmune disorder where the eye does not produce adequate tears to lubricate the eye. A dry cornea is at risk of damage, so your dog’s body responds by producing thick mucous and possibly growing blood vessels to patch the damaged areas.

Chronic superficial keratitis, or “pannus,” is an autoimmune disorder where blood vessels and/or pigment grows across the cornea for no good reason. Left untreated, pannus can progress to blindness.

Both dry eye and pannus require lifelong treatment, but can be managed successfully.

Episcleral Injection

Red lines across the white part of the eye typically indicates a problem inside the eye itself. Some causes include glaucoma, uveitis, or cancer.

Glaucoma is when blocked tear ducts leads to a buildup of pressure inside the eye. This hurts! As well as having red lines across the sclera, the eye may also appear bulgy. Left untreated, glaucoma will result in blindness.

Uveitis is inflammation of the tissues inside the eyeball. It can happen because of infection, traumatic injury, or an autoimmune disorder. Unlike glaucoma, uveitis can cause abnormally low eye pressures.

Cancer around the eye is uncommon, but tumors can form inside the eyeball itself or behind the eyeball within the socket. As the tumor grows, it puts pressure on the eye, becoming uncomfortable and possibly impairing vision.

Hyphema

Bleeding in a dog’s eye (hyphema) is typically caused by trauma to the area but may also occur due to high blood pressure, clotting disorders, or inflammation. Credit: TRAVELARIUM | Getty Images

A blood-filled eye is usually the result of trauma to the eye. For example, this can occur when a dog has been hit by a car. Hyphema can also occur because of high blood pressure, clotting disorders, or uveitis (inflammation inside the eye).





Subconjunctival Hemorrhage

If the white part of the eye is solid red, there has probably been trauma to the eye. Strangulation or excessive pressure on the neck and clotting disorders can also cause this to happen.

How to Treat Red Eyes in Dogs

Your veterinarian will start by looking at your dog’s eyes and doing some basic tests to measure tear production and eye pressure and check for corneal scratches and ulcers. She will also consider any other symptoms your dog is experiencing and her health history.

The most common causes of bloodshot eyes in dogs can be diagnosed and treated by your regular veterinarian. Debris, cherry eye, dry eye, pannus, glaucoma, and corneal ulcers are all usually easy to identify. Complicated cases or more obscure eye issues may require a trip to a veterinary ophthalmologist (specialist eye doctor).

Treatment varies depending on what is causing your dog’s red eyes. Many eye disorders are treated with medicated drops or ointments that are applied directly to the eye. Conjunctivitis due to allergies will require treatment for the allergies in general, and clotting disorders require specialized treatments.

Some eye problems, such as severe corneal ulcers, some cases of glaucoma, entropion, and cherry eye, may require surgery.

When to Get Help for Bloodshot Eyes in Dogs

Eye problems can progress very quickly and threaten your dog’s sight. Because of this, we recommend making a vet appointment as quickly as possible if your dog’s eyes appear abnormal or she is scratching and rubbing at them. Squinting is also a cause for concern.

If your dog is in pain, she may need emergency care.

Don’t try to treat your dog’s bloodshot eyes on your own. Very few medications are safe to put in the eyes, and using the wrong eye medication (for example, steroid drops when the dog actually has an ulcer) can make the situation worse.

One thing that you can do to help your dog while waiting for a vet appointment is apply plain artificial tears. I really like the GenTeal Tears Severe Lubricant Eye Gel, which was recommended to me by a veterinary ophthalmologist. The gel lasts longer than typical artificial tears, providing extra relief for your dog.

Artificial tears won’t treat most eye problems but do provide soothing lubrication and can flush out debris in the eye.

Positive Reinforcement Dog Training: 6 Tips for Training With Treats

By
Stephanie Colman
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Training with treats is an effective means of positive reinforcement training so long the treats are not a bribe.
Treats are an important part of positive reinforcement dog training but remember that they’re not the only way to reward a job well done! Toys, praise, cuddles, and getting to do something fun can also be used to reinforce desired behaviors. Credit: SDI Productions | Getty Images

Training with treats is cornerstone of positive reinforcement dog training. It’s dog-friendly, it’s fun and the basics are easy for trainers of all ages and skill levels.

At its core, the concept is simple: feed behaviors you want to see happen more often.

But simple doesn’t always mean easy. Understanding how, when and how often to use treats in training can help you achieve better results. Here are six tips to keep in mind:

1.Use Treats as a Lure or Reward—Not a Bribe!

Those who oppose using food in training often cite not wanting to “bribe” their dog as the reason why.

Newsflash: Positive-reinforcement dog trainers don’t want you to bribe your dog either!

What’s the difference? Here’s an easy way to think about it: When you use food to guide your dog into position (think treat on his nose), that’s a lure. When you ask your dog to do something, he performs correctly and you deliver a treat, that’s a reward. When you ask your dog to do something, he doesn’t do it, so you produce a treat and then he responds, that’s a bribe!

For best results, use treats as lures and rewards and try to avoid bribing your dog.

2. Remember to Fade the Treat Lure.

When you train behaviors with a food lure, a great goal is to fade the lure as quickly as possible—meaning, make sure your dog can perform correctly without the treat on his nose as a lure/guide. When your dog can confidently follow a food lure into position, do a couple of repetitions with the lure and then quickly ask for a third using the same hand motion, but without food in that hand. Reward with a surprise treat from the opposite hand after your dog performs correctly. This helps your dog learn to respond correctly in order to earn treats versus responding correctly because he sees treats.

3. Timing is Everything and Watch What You’re Rewarding.

Aim to deliver the treat within two seconds of your dog performing correctly. This helps your dog connect the treat to the behavior. Similarly, pay attention to what your dog is doing as you deliver the treat. If you’re working on “sit,” it’s best to reward your dog while his hind-end is on the floor. If you take too long to deliver the treat, he may sit, then stand. At that point, a treat is likely to reinforce a sit-stand combination.

4. Invest in the Reinforcement.

Frequently include praise and petting as you deliver treats—don’t just dole them out like an emotionless Pez dispenser. You and your dog are a team, so why not celebrate the occasion of your dog earning the treat? Plus, by pairing treats with petting and praise, you’re scientifically raising the value of your petting and praise through classical conditioning, making it worth more to your dog in the future, and when it’s delivered in the absence of treats.

Also, don’t be afraid to be generous with your treats—especially when your dog has a breakthrough moment in training or otherwise performs exceptionally well—like readily leaving a difficult distraction to come when called. Occasionally make a point to deliver multiple treats one at a time as you praise and pet your dog in ways she enjoys. Try to stretch the reinforcement over 10-15 seconds. Pay attention to her body language; if she’s leaning or ducking away from you as she eats, she’s likely saying, “Thanks for the food, but you’re coming on a little strong,” and you should consider changing your body language. (Are you leaning over your dog? A lot of dogs don’t enjoy this.)

These generous jackpots can be meaningful and help motivate your dog to perform correctly—with speed and enthusiasm—in the future. However, be careful not to overuse jackpot rewards. If jackpots are available all the time, they can lose value.

5. Reward Every Correct Response but Use Treats Intermittently.

Once your dog reliably performs the desired behavior without the lure, keep treats on the menu, but learn what else your dog enjoys and mix in offering those things as rewards, too. Once my dogs understand simple behaviors like “sit” and “down,” I make a point to use life rewards to reinforce those behaviors throughout the day.

For example, when I know my dog want me to open the door so he can go outside, I can ask for a “sit” and the treat becomes me opening the door. When we see a friend on a walk, I can ask him to “lie down,” and the treat becomes me releasing him to visit our friend. Anything your dog wants—that you can safely allow him to have or experience—can be used in place of a treat to reward his behavior. It’s also a great way to establish a strong sense of teamwork between you and your dog.

6.It’s OK to Keep Treats on the Menu Forever. (Yes, really!)

Every positive-reinforcement trainer I know continues to use food throughout their dogs’ lives—at least in some circumstances. In my own home, I keep treats in a dish on my desk to reinforce my dog for not barking at the mail delivery person. When I have an opportunity to let my dog explore an area off-leash, I use treats to reinforce coming when called, because I greatly appreciate my dog’s decision to hit the pause button on his exploration simply because I asked him to.

Continuing to use treats (as rewards, not bribes) is not a sign that your dog is not trained—it’s a sign of an enlightened trainer who understands the importance of offering a meaningful reward in exchange for a job well done.

Happy training!

Why are Doodle Dogs so Popular?

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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While Doodles typically share some traits with their Poodle parent, there are no guarantees regarding which traits they will inherit. Credit: Madeline Block
Doodle dogs are thought to combine the best traits of their parents, but there are no guarantees.

There’s no doubt that Doodles are cute. The fluffy, curly coated puppies can make anyone’s heart melt, but should you buy one from a breeder? The main draws of Doodles—a “hypoallergenic” coat and a family-friendly temperament—are not always consistent.

 

 

Who Invented Doodle Dogs?

The first popularized Doodle was a Labrador Retriever and Poodle mix, bred in 1989 by Wally Conron as a guide dog prospect. He aimed to create a dog with the temperament of a Lab, but the non-shedding coat of a Standard Poodle for a woman who needed a guide dog, but whose husband had dog allergies.

Conron bred one of his Labs to a Standard Poodle, and ended up with a litter of three puppies. After sending hair and saliva samples for testing, it turned out that only one dog of the litter of three inherited the non-shedding coat. After sending along a puppy to the woman, Conron was left with two guide dog prospects that no one wanted since they were mixed breeds. He then began marketing them as a new breed called a Labradoodle with help from the Guide Dogs Victoria PR department, and the trend caught on.

In a 2014 interview with Psychology Today, Conron said that he regrets popularizing Doodle breeding. “I opened a Pandora’s box, that’s what I did,” he said. “I released a Frankenstein. So many people are just breeding for the money. So many of these dogs have physical problems, and a lot of them are just crazy.”

Why are Doodle Dogs So Popular?

A poodle and a doodle dog stand side by side looking at the camera.
While Doodles typically share some traits with their Poodle parent, there are no guarantees regarding which traits they will inherit. Credit: Madeline Block

The original marketing ploys of the Labradoodle live on even today. Poodle mixes are often described as wonderful family pets that come in all colors and sizes, have good temperaments, and are hypoallergenic. Designer dogs and mixed breeds like Doodles are often marketed as healthier than purebreds, though this idea has since been debunked.

Whether the above points are true or not depends on multiple factors, including the health of the parent dogs, which two breeds are being mixed together, the socialization that the breeder does, and more.

“I think [Doodles] are popular because a lot of them are cute and the general population is not informed about ethical breeding practices,” says Madeline Block, a Doodle and Poodle owner and dog content creator based in Cincinnati, Ohio. “There is a lot of biased misinformation that people find and they are often advertised as easy, family friendly dogs which a lot of people are drawn to.”

Are Doodles Hypoallergenic?

Doodle mixes are hybrids of two different breeds, not a true breed. This matters in that the results of breeding a purebred dog like a Golden Retriever or a Labrador Retriever and a purebred Poodle will not be consistent across a litter. Because of this, breeders can’t promise all puppies will be non-shedding (there is no such thing as a truly hypoallergenic dog). Though Doodles are marketed as having only the best traits of each breed, that’s not quite how genetics work.

When breeding dogs of two different coat types, you can end up with a lot of different options. There are certain genes the puppies can inherit from the parent dogs that make them shed more or less as well, so you truly can’t predict their level of shedding. You can end up with puppies that are shedding, low-shedding, or a mix of the two.

“Many think that Doodles are hypoallergenic but that is not true,” says Block. “They may produce less allergens and people with allergies may do okay with them but a dog that is a mix between a low shedding dog (Poodle) and a shedding dog (like a Golden, Aussie, Bernese, etc.) still has the chance to shed and produce allergens.”

Block also explains that Poodle mixes can be prone to matting. She says that when you mix multiple types of hair together, the hair essentially becomes Velcro. Loose hairs get stuck in the coarse outer coat, and mats can form, which can be very painful for the dog. “This is one reason why there are so many Doodles that get shaved down at the groomer because people think that they won’t shed and they don’t maintain the coat regularly,” says Block.

Can Doodles be Ethically Bred?

Ethically bred purebred or designer dogs are extensively tested to check their health.
Ethically bred purebred dogs, like Arteaga’s Poodles, are extensively health tested and proven. Credit: Jo Brady

Some of the primary goals of ethical breeding are to improve health, temperament, and ability with each generation of dogs. There is also a duty of care when it comes to how puppies and breeding dogs are raised, handled, and cared for throughout their lives. Breeding dogs ethically is a difficult task even when extensive records have been kept on the dogs being bred. It’s hard enough for breeders of purebred dogs, who often have access to breed databases, health records, and other breeders familiar with the genetic lines in question. Breeders of Doodles and other designer dogs rarely have similar resources, making it even more difficult—and therefore less likely—to breed such dogs ethically.

Violet Arteaga, a breeder of Poodles and Collies located in Broomfield, Colorado, explained some of what it takes to be an ethical preservation breeder, which many Doodle breeders don’t meet. Though not exhaustive, the main points we’ll explore are health, breeding proven dogs, striving to better the breed, and not contributing to overcrowded shelter populations.

Health Testing

Firstly, Arteaga notes the importance of starting out with good breeding stock. Arteaga is referring to the breeding dogs’ health history and lineage. To breed healthy, sound puppies, a breeder needs to start with dogs who have been proven (more on what that means later) and health tested for generations to avoid breeding dogs with hereditary health problems.

“Health testing is a huge thing for Poodles,” she says. “Hips, elbows, eyes, heart and much, much more is a must. Studying pedigrees and selecting the right stud for your girls (looking at what you need/want to improve on) is also important.”

Ethically bred purebreds and doodle dogs undergo extensive health testing.
Preservation breeders often show their purebred dogs to prove they’re worthy of being bred. Credit: Violet Arteaga

Most ethical preservation breeders test their dogs’ hips, elbows, and eyes before breeding them. They may also test for heart, thyroid, and genetic conditions specific to their breed. These tests often cost hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars depending on how many need to be done.

Recommended health tests vary by breed. Looking for a breeder who is involved in the national parent club of the breed you’re interested in is a good starting point. These parent clubs act as a guiding body for breeders, typically publishing a code of ethics and list of recommended health testing for their breed.

The codes of ethics of many national parent clubs explicitly and strongly advises against mixed breedings. The Poodle Club of America, for example, states that members should “Never intentionally allow a Poodle to be bred to any other breed.”

Though there is nuance to this, generally, anyone breeding Poodle mixes would not have a dog from extensively health tested and proven lines since most ethical breeders are interested in preserving and bettering their specific breed. This means that Doodle breeders are often starting out their programs with sub-par breeding dogs (i.e. Dogs that haven’t been proven or health tested, and dogs who came from questionable breeders themselves).

This means that you’re more likely to have health or temperament issues by buying a puppy from these breeders. Is it possible you could get a perfect puppy with no issues? Yes. But you’re not stacking the deck in your favor.

Remember: just because a dog is purebred does not mean it’s well bred. A Doodle breeder can easily hop on the internet and find an “AKC registered Poodle” to use in their Doodle breeding program. AKC registration is not an indication of proven or health tested dogs.

What Does It Mean to Have a Proven Dog?

Having a proven dog means that the dog has met standards designed to demonstrate that he or she is worthy of being bred. Proven dogs have either been shown at conformation dog shows and been evaluated structurally against their breed standard or have proven that they’re able to do other work, like dog sports, hunting, herding, or guarding livestock.

Conformation dog shows are a way to judge a dog against the breed standard (a written description of the breed’s physical characteristics) by an unbiased third party. The whole point of these shows is proving that your dog is worthy of being bred. Proven dogs are often conformation champions in the AKC, UKC, or other registries, and many have titles for other sports.

Doodles can be proven in dog sports (though they need to be spayed or neutered to compete in AKC-specific sports), therapy work, and service dog work. However, because they are a mixed breed, they cannot be shown in conformation shows. Since there are so many different kinds of Doodles, there is no singular breed standard.

Why are Doodles So Expensive?

In short, Doodles are expensive because they are popular. Many people will pay a lot for the promise of a cute, friendly, healthy, hypoallergenic dog—even if what they get might not match up with their expectations. Unfortunately, this also means there is no shortage of people looking to make money by breeding them and prices go up accordingly.

“My Doodle cost more than my well-bred Poodle and that is crazy to think about considering how much my Poodle breeder did that my Doodle breeder did not do,” says Block.

Do Doodles Make Good Pets?

Doodles that are bred ethically can make for great pets.
Doodles can make good pets, but it can be extremely difficult to find one that comes from a responsible, ethical breeder. Credit: Madeline Block

Doodles can potentially make good pets. There’s always a possibility that you’ll get a dog with a good temperament, good health, and a non-shedding coat when you buy a Doodle. The issue is that these traits are not always consistent.

“With getting a dog from a mixed breed breeder, you never know what you’re going to get in regards to temperament, health, coat, size, etc.,” says Arteaga.

However, many people love their Doodles, despite the unpredictability. “There are a lot of common misconceptions about Doodles but I would like to also note that there are a lot of people who actually really like their Doodles and they make fine pets,” says Block.

Block herself owns a Poodle mix who works as a therapy dog. “Once I became informed about ethical breeding practices, I knew my next dog would be a Poodle which was exactly what I was looking for,” she says. “I wanted another dog that could do therapy work that was more sound overall for the work.”

Why Veterinary Wellness Exams Are Important

By
Nancy Kerns
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Woody and Boone, Nancy Kern's dogs outside in a field.
I was more concerned that Woody’s weight gain was going to trigger a lecture from my vet, but we never even got there, since both dogs had other more pressing health problems that required attention. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I took my two dogs—Woody, age 9, and Boone, age 3—to see their vet a week ago. The night before their appointment, I groomed both dogs and trimmed their nails. Both dogs were due for a Leptospirosis vaccine, and Woody also was due for a rabies vaccine. Beyond that, my only concerns were about a few lumps on Woody. He has several small lumps that the vet mapped at his exam a little more than a year ago, and I was worried that a couple of them had grown. Also, I wasn’t looking forward to being chided for allowing him—nay, facilitating him—to gain a few extra pounds this winter.

But I wasn’t at all expecting the health problems that my vet found.

After a peek in Woody’s ears, she said matter-of-factly, “He’s got an ear infection.” Now, about three days prior, on a walk out in our local wildlife area, he had gone swimming in a lake, and in the course of that swim, had gotten water in his ear. He hates getting water in his ears, and he shook his head and held it crookedly for the remainder of our walk—but by the time we drove home, he had seemingly forgotten all about it and I hadn’t noticed any more head-shaking or a head tilt.

The infection wasn’t severe—though, without treatment, it probably would have gotten more severe. The vet prescribed a thorough ear-cleaning, plus a prescription ear-drop put in his ears once a day for seven days.

Nancy Kerns dog examined by a vet.
My vet, a Fear-Free practitioner, is happy to meet and examine her patients on the floor, where they are more comfortable. This made Boone very happy. Credit: Nancy Kerns

Other than that, she measured all of his lumps, and found that a couple of them had grown, but not by very much. On his last lump-exam, she had extracted a bit of fluid from several, and was satisfied that they are lipomas.

I declined blood tests on this visit, but will ask for them on our next visit.

Then it was Boone’s turn. I was quite confident she wouldn’t find anything wrong with Boone—but she did.

“He’s got pyoderma,” she said after running her hands through his coat as he rolled on his back on the floor of the exam room. “What?!” I exclaimed. I hadn’t noticed anything wrong with his skin or coat, and I had examined him very thoroughly the night before (I thought).

But then she pointed out some redness on his tummy and chest, and said, “Look; this is an epidermal collarette.” She pointed to a small round mark on his skin, and then another. I was astonished. About two years ago, I was editing an article about folliculitis—another word for pyoderma—and I had been tasked with trying to find a stock photo of epidermal collarettes. I hadn’t been able to find a stock photo of one anywhere; finally the veterinarian/author was able to find one for us to run with the article. But here they were on my own dog! Ack!

A zoomed in photo of an epidermal collarette.
The red circle is a circle of pus-filled infected hair follicles called an epidermal collarete. The darker circle below is an older lesion in an early stage of healing. Credit: Nancy Kerns

The vet also pointed out some small things that looked like pimples. Perhaps because I was so aghast at not being observant enough about my own dog’s skin, she said, “We’ll lance one of those and I’ll put some of the exudate on a slide and stain it so you can see the bacteria,” she said.

She did all those things and DANG if that slide wasn’t just LOADED with bacteria. Poor Boone was fighting an infection of his own!

A close up of a bacterial slide.
In this photo, taken through a microscope, you can see several red blood cells (the pinkish blobs), white blood cells (clear blobs containing some purple dots of bacteria that they are consuming), and lots and lots of tiny purple dots, which are the bacteria infecting Boone’s skin. Credit: Nancy Kerns

Even though I had been rubbing Boone’s tummy when I had clipped his nails the night before, and I had noticed that his skin was a very little bit red here and there, I hadn’t thought it was very serious. Again, when we had been out in the wildlife area a few days before, he had been running through some reeds at the edge of the lake (in vain pursuit of ducks), and I just assumed the redness was irritation caused by the reeds. I certainly hadn’t noticed him licking or scratching at the area. But here we were, with a skin infection!

My vet gave me the option of putting Boone on oral antibiotics, or to start with a topical approach: medicated baths twice a week for a couple of weeks, and spraying his skin twice daily with an antibacterial solution. Though it’s a lot of work, I opted for the latter, in an effort to not wreck his internal microbiome if we didn’t have to.

Anyway, while these two health problems that I hadn’t noticed aren’t terribly dramatic—it’s not like the vet had detected a previously undiagnosed fatal condition—they are good examples of why our dogs need to be seen by a primary care veterinarian at least once annually. While the expenditure can be significant (especially at visits when you do run blood tests), catching minor conditions before they can bloom into major ones is critical for keeping your dog healthy and comfortable. If your dog hasn’t seen a vet for a year, it’s time to make an appointment!

Top Calls to Animal Poison Control

By
Mary Schwager
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Dogs eating chocolate was the fourth most common reason for calls to Animal Poison Control.
Dogs eating chocolate was the fourth most common reason people called ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2024. Credit: Denise Panyik-Dale | Getty Images

Jennifer Owen never expected to spend part of Valentine’s Day on the phone with the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC).

“I went to the gym and forgot that I put a new candy bowl out with chocolate heart candies wrapped in aluminum foil,” Owen says. “When I got home, the now-empty bowl was on the floor.”

Even worse, Owen didn’t know which one of her dogs was the culprit. “I had three Labradors and no idea what combination of them ate the chocolate,” she said.

It turns out that Owen may not have been the only worried dog mom on the phone with pet poison control that day. Dogs who gulp down chocolate are among the most common calls to the APCC hotline.

“What we call the chocolate holidays tend to be busier: Valentine’s Day, Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas,” says veterinarian Tina Wismer, senior director of toxicology at the APCC. “Anytime there’s chocolate left out, dogs will find it.”

Dogs have a keen knack for finding, opening, and devouring many things they aren’t supposed to.

The APCC received more than 451,000 calls from pet parents last year who needed immediate answers: Could what their dog gobbled down cause a life-threatening problem? The organization crunched its data and just released its annual list of the top ten toxins that pets managed to ingest the most.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has more than 50 veterinarians and 120 support staff, all trained in toxicology, working around the clock, day and night.

For a $95 consultation fee, an APCC case worker takes detailed information from pet parents, including a dog’s weight, what they ate, and the quantity.

Even if a dog wolfed down multiple types of products (as this author’s dog did once: a box of chocolate chip cookies and a box of fiber bars), the APCC likely has each item’s ingredients in their database, which was started in the 1970s. It includes thousands of household products, foods, plants, toxins, and medications that dogs decided were edible.

The staff calculates the risk and gives pet caregivers advice—which generally ranges from “Your dog will likely be fine” to “Watch for these signs of trouble” or “Head to the animal ER right now!” The APCC assigns each case an ID number, which is crucial to give the medical team if treatment is needed. Many veterinarians rely on the APCC’s expertise.

“Sometimes people come to the emergency room after their dog eats something that we’re not 100% familiar with,” says emergency room veterinarian Carly Fox with the Schwarzman Animal Medical Center in New York City. “We have the owners call pet poison control in the waiting room so we can contact their experts afterward. It is absolutely worth the call; it’s truly unbelievable how much the APCC knows.”

The APCC also knows what lifestyle trends are going on in peoples’ homes across the country by crunching the top calls they receive.

“What is happening in veterinary medicine reflects what’s happening on the human side of things,” Dr. Wismer says. “During COVID, we had a ton of animals being exposed to cleaning products. Since COVID has ended, cleaning product calls dropped.”

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s Top Calls

So, what are the top calls pet parents and caregivers made to the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center? What is toxic to dogs? What is poisonous to dogs?

Here’s what topped the charts in 2024.

1. Over-the-Counter Medications

Calls about pets chomping down over-the-counter medications, like dietary supplements, vitamins, and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) pain medications like ibuprofen and naproxen, have remained steady over the last few years as the number one call the APCC receives.

The ingredients in some dietary supplements may be helpful for humans, but they can be dangerous to dogs, and certain over-the-counter pain medications can be so hazardous that some dog ingestion cases Dr. Fox gets make her cringe.

“NSAID toxicity can be really bad,” Dr. Fox says. “It depends on how much the dog ingests and their weight, but it can cause GI upset, that can progress to GI ulceration, bleeding, acute kidney failure, and in really severe cases, it can cause seizures, comas, and death.”

2. Human Food and Drinks

Pets that gobble down food and drinks made for people held their spot at number two on the list from years past.

What are the most toxic foods for dogs? Gum, candy, and products containing the artificial sweetener xylitol, grapes, raisins, garlic, and onions.

And it’s not only onions that can cause problems. “Leeks, shallots, chives, and other foods that are part of the allium family all have a compound called N-propyl disulfide that can damage red blood cells and make your animal fairly sick if ingested at high enough doses,” Dr. Fox says.

3. Human Prescription Medications

Calls from people saying, “My dog ate my medication,” remained in the third spot this year. Pets who ingested heart, antidepressant, and ADHD medications were the most common cases.

The APCC says they’re seeing a trend with some callers saying, “Oh my gosh! My dog got into my grandma’s purse and ate her pills!”  These stories are a good reminder that not all guests may realize some dogs are curious, always-hungry, nosy foragers who will investigate anything new in their homes.

“Visitors, like grandma or your child’s friends, may not know that their purse or backpack on the floor can be very dangerous,” Dr. Wismer says. “Not only do you have to train the people in your household not to leave anything your dog can get into around, but you also need to train your guests.”

4. Chocolate

As Owen learned, chocolate is a dog fan favorite and is fourth on the APCC’s list.

Dark and baking chocolate are typically the most dangerous to dogs due to the higher amounts of caffeine and theobromine, a compound in cocoa plants. These ingredients can cause dehydration, an increased heart rate, blood pressure spikes, and even seizures.

When it comes to chocolate (and human food), don’t underestimate a dog’s creativity and drive to get what they want.

“The other day, we had a call, and a dog literally slid a chair across the floor so he could hop onto the chair, then onto the table to eat brownies,” Dr. Wismer says. “Sometimes they’re smarter than we are, so you need to protect yourself and protect them as best you can.”

5. Veterinary Products

Veterinary products for pets are number five on the list. This one is a good news, bad news situation: More and more pet medications smell yummy and enticing so dogs eat them, but that can become a problem.

“Many people have a difficult time giving their dog pills,” Dr. Wismer says. “So, they make some very tasty and flavorful so the dog will take them easily. But we’re seeing an increase in animals ingesting higher doses because we’re making more chewable formulations. That means, if you don’t put that bottle away, they could eat the entire bottle of pills.”

Other Top Pet Poisoning Concerns

Other top-ranking pet poisoning calls to the APCC included insecticides, rodenticides (rat and mouse poison), household products, cleaners, batteries, recreational drugs, fungi, and plants.

A chart showing the top 10 reasons for calls to the ASPCA animal poison control centers.
Of the over 450,000 calls received ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in 2024, dogs consuming over-the-counter human medications were the most common. Credit: Courtesy of ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

Hydrangeas, tulips, daffodils, and sago palms are all some of the top poisonous plants for dogs.

Swift Action is the Best Antidote

Of course, prevention, supervision, and management are the best ways to avoid having a dog poison control emergency, but it can take a split second for a pooch to eat something that mistakenly falls on the floor, a toddler gives him, or he finds on the street during a walk. Weird, unexpected, and bizarre things happen to even the best pet parents.

If a dog does manage to consume something suspicious or worrisome, immediately call the APCC, a veterinarian, or an animal hospital. The sooner a dog gets help, the better the outcome will be.

“We may be able to induce vomiting or give a dose of activated charcoal to stop the absorption of whatever they ate,” Dr. Wismer says. “But once they’re already having problems, once they’re symptomatic, that limits what we can do.”

Up to 10% of the cases Dr. Fox handles in the emergency room daily involve dogs that have swallowed something toxic or poisonous.

She says some of her most heartbreaking cases are when pet parents avoid bringing their dogs to the ER because they fear the cost. If a dog is in danger, waiting will only risk their lives, which could result in an even more significant medical bill.

“It kills me when people don’t bring their dog in right away because our biggest ability to save your dog’s life is within the first couple of hours of ingestion,” Dr. Fox says. “There are so many things we can do to try to prevent that toxicity from progressing. Some people come in and say, ‘My dog ate all this ibuprofen yesterday.’ Well, it’s now too late. So, we cross our fingers and do what we can.”

Peace of Mind

In Jennifer’s case, she quickly got on the phone with the APCC and brought peace of mind. Fortunately, she still had the candy bag and could tell her case worker precisely what was eaten. The toxicology team calculated her dogs’ weights and the amount of missing chocolate and let her know she didn’t need to load her four-legged crew in the car and race them to the ER.

“Thankfully, the bag was small, and even if one of them ate the entire bag, they were still in the ‘safe’ with a likely tummy ache zone,” Owen said. “I found the culprit through some shimmery, decorative, foil-filled poop.”

Sucralfate May Help with GI Problems in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Sucralfate for dogs can help with a variety of canine stomach problems.
Sucralfate is available as a liquid or a tablet that you crush, mix with warm water, then give to your dog. Credit: Frazao Studio Latino | Getty Images

Sucralfate is a human medication used off-label in dogs for ulcers, vomiting, and irritations along the gastrointestinal tract from the mouth to the small intestine, potentially even as far as the colon. It can help with stomach ulcers, esophageal erosions, oral ulcers, and inflammatory bowel disease.

Brand names for sucralfate include Carafate and Sulcrate. This medication is a complex salt that acts by combining proteins in the irritated areas to provide a protective cover over erosions and ulcers so they can heal.

The drug separates into two compounds once in the stomach: sucrose octasulfate and aluminum hydroxide. Sucrose octasulfate coats injured tissues. Bile acids may be absorbed onto it, and it appears to stimulate mucosal production of prostaglandins. In these situations, the prostaglandins act to protect the cells on the stomach’s internal surface. Aluminum hydroxide helps with acid indigestion.

How to Give Your Dog Sucralfate

This prescription medication is available as tablets or a liquid. If you use tablets, you must crush them, such as with a small mortar and pestle, and mix them with warm water. The mixture can then be given with a plastic syringe in the corner of your dog’s mouth.

Give sucralfate on an empty stomach so the medication has access to the affected areas. Wait two hours after that before giving any other medications.

Due to its protective covering of the mucosa, sucralfate can interfere with the absorption of many medications. These medications include, but are not limited to, antibiotics such as fluoroquinolones and tetracyclines and antifungals like ketoconazole. In addition, fat-soluble vitamins and the thyroid medication levothyroxine will have decreased absorption, potentially requiring dosage adjustments.

Digoxin, a cardiac medication, will also have altered absorption. In addition, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, or NSAIDs, will not be well-absorbed.

Ideally, sucralfate is used short term to allow for mucosal healing.

Sucralfate for Dogs Side Effects

Sucralfate should not be used in dogs who have constipation as it will exacerbate the problem (constipation is a potential side effect). Conversely, some dogs will experience diarrhea and loss of appetite. While the amount of aluminum is unlikely to cause serious problems, it would best to avoid sucralfate for use in dogs with known renal problems.

Allergic reactions such as hives or difficulty breathing and behavior changes are rarely seen. Lethargy is the most common behavior change seen.

Sucralfate is not as powerful as protein pump inhibitors such as omeprazole, which are recommended by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine for treating gastric ulcers and erosions. Sucralfate is not a true analgesic, so there is minimal pain relief, but it can help your dog who is vomiting and in discomfort by acting as a physical barrier.

My dogs had no problems when I used it short term, but crushing the pill and getting it to dissolve can be a challenge! (A good mortar and pestle is worth the investment.) Keep track of the dosage timing can also be tricky when dealing with your own work schedule. Consult the prescribing veterinarian with problems or concerns.

Signs of Heart Failure in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Knowing the signs of heart failure in dogs can lead to a better prognosis for an aging dog.
If your dog wants to sniff on your walk, let him! A snifari is fun! But, if your dog is oddly lagging behind you, it might be time to check for heart or other problems that are causing him to slow down. Credit: Vgajic | Getty Images

The first symptoms of congestive heart failure in dogs are subtle. Your dog may seem less active and not eating well. He may be coughing a bit. Don’t dismiss these signs as the dog is just getting old. These changes could indicate congestive heart failure, and the earlier it’s diagnosed the better the prognosis.

Other early signs of heart failure include:

  • Increased respiratory rate
  • Struggle to breathe, especially after any exercise
  • Moist cough, even at rest

More advanced symptoms of heart failure are:

  • Abdominal swelling/fluid retention (ascites)
  • Edema in their lower legs
  • Weight loss
  • Pale or bluish gums

Causes of Heart Failure in Dogs

The two biggest causes of congestive heart failure in dogs are mitral valve disease and cardiomyopathy.

Mitral valve disease is a degenerative condition that affects the valves that separate the chambers of the heart. When valves develop problems, blood can leak back into the chamber it was just pushed out of. This means less oxygenated blood gets to the tissues, forcing the heart to work harder to compensate.

Cardiomyopathy is a disease that affects the heart muscle. Depending on the exact scenario, the heart may stretch (dilated cardiomyopathy) or expand (hypertrophic cardiomyopathy). Both conditions make the heart less efficient, so, again, causing the heart to work harder. Tissues may be deprived of oxygen.

Congestive heart failure also may be due to genetic predispositions (such as mitral valve disease in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels), infections such as viral or bacterial myocarditis, or parasitic infections like heartworm. Certain diets may predispose some dogs to congestive heart failure as well.

Other causes of heart failure in dogs include hypertension, tumors, abnormal heartbeats, mitral regurgitation, and more.

Diagnosis of Heart Failure in Dogs

Whether found during a wellness exam or because you brought your dog in for a problem, your veterinarian may pick up a heart murmur (abnormal heartbeat) when listening to the dog’s heart. The vet may recommend chest X-rays, which may show enlargement in the heart. You may be referred to a veterinary cardiologist.

Diagnosing congestive heart failure is a combination of physical exam findings, radiographs or echocardiography (ultrasound/“sono”), and bloodwork, including a specific heart metabolite called NT Pro-BNP (see sidebar).

Cardiac Biomarker Blood Test

NT-Pro BNP or N-terminal fragment pro-B type natriuretic peptide is a cardiac biomarker detected in bloodwork. This biomarker has been used to diagnose heart disease to differentiate respiratory versus cardiac disease and to track progression and treatment of heart failure. It is a hormone produced by cardiac muscle cells when they are overstretched.

Stages of Congestive Heart Failure in Dogs

Veterinary cardiologists stage their patients to help track progression of the disease. Congestive heart failure cannot be cured in dogs, but their disease can often be controlled, providing them with good quality of life for months to years.

Five basic stages are generally recognized:

A: The dog presumed to be at risk. This could be a dog with a known genetic predisposition. At a minimum, these dogs should have annual physical examinations.

B1: The dog appears healthy, but a murmur has been detected, so they need periodic re-evaluations.

B2: These dogs also appear healthy, but in addition to a murmur, some changes in heart structure are evident on radiographs or echocardiography.

C: At this stage, your dog is showing clinical signs of congestive heart failure and is starting medical therapy (see treatment, below).

D: Dogs at stage D have congestive heart failure that medical therapies aren’t controlling. These dogs usually require hospitalization, often with supplemental oxygen, while your veterinarian works to get the symptoms under control.

Treating Congestive Heart Failure

Treatment for congestive heart failure often involves a bit of trial and error to come up with the exact treatment that works for your dog.

The first step is usually prescribing a diuretic such as furosemide (Lasix). Diuretics decrease blood volume and reduce venous pressure. These actions make it easier for your dog’s heart to beat and get oxygenated blood out to tissues in the body.

Furosemide is a relatively inexpensive oral medication, though it can also be given intravenously to a dog in crisis, along with the use of supplemental oxygen.

Other medications will vary with the underlying cause of the congestive heart failure:

  • Pimobendan is often given to help the heart work more efficiently.
  • ACE inhibitors dilate blood vessels so less resistance for the heart to pump against.
  • Antiarrhythmic drugs help control your dog’s heart disease.

Dietary Changes for Dogs with Heart Problems

Dietary changes may be recommended as well. A diet low in sodium can help some dogs, and all canine cardiac patients can benefit from supplementing omega-3 fatty acids, such as fish oil.

For some dogs, adding taurine to the diet may help. The associations of certain diets with dilated cardiomyopathy in dogs has not been clarified at this time, but your veterinarian may recommend changing diets if this is your dog’s diagnosis.

The most important thing about diets for dogs with heart disease is that your dog must like the food. Cardiac cachexia is a real thing. It’s when dogs lose weight and muscle mass related to heart disease, often from a loss of appetite. So, talk with your veterinarian as you may need to “fudge a bit” on feeding a strict cardiac diet, using toppers and other foods to help keep your dog eating.

Home Care for Heart Failure in Dogs

If your dog is diagnosed with congestive heart failure, try to minimize stress at home. This is not the time to add a puppy or have a huge family gathering. Try to keep to your basic routines as much as possible.

Continue your daily exercise but adjust as needed. You might need to shorten the length of walks or avoid places with steep hills. Adjust your pace to fit your dog. Do lots of snifari walks (“sniffer walks”) where your dog sets the pace and direction.

Learn your dog’s normal respiratory rate and how to monitor the rate. Normal ranges for resting rates in dogs can range from 10 to 30 breaths per minute or so. Small dogs have a higher rate than giant breeds. Most people count the breaths on their sleeping dog for 30 seconds, then multiply by two. If your dog’s resting rate increases or he is laboring to breathe, contact your veterinary clinic.

Congestive heart failure is no fun, but with care and a bit of luck, your dog can enjoy many more months or even years with you.

Famotidine for Dogs

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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Famotidine for dogs is an acid reducer that can help deal with certain stomach issues in dogs.
: Do not administer famotidine to your dog without discussing its use with your veterinarian. Credit: Snizhana Galytska | Getty Images

Famotidine is a stomach-acid reducer that is sometimes used “off label” in dogs. “Off label” means the medication is not approved by the FDA for use in dogs, but veterinarians may prescribe it. Famotidine is available as an injectable that can be administered at a veterinary hospital and an oral form that is available over the counter (OTC).

The best-known brand name is Pepcid-AC. There are also generic equivalents. Famotidine can be used in cases of stomach ulcers, esophagitis, gastritis, reflux disorders, disorders that result in hypersecretion of stomach acid (gastrinoma, systemic mastocytosis), and stomach issues related to kidney disease. However, you should have a diagnosis from your veterinarian before using this medication.

Famotidine Is Not an Antacid

Technically, famotidine is an H2 receptor antagonist that competitively inhibits histamine-induced gastric acid secretion from the stomach parietal cells. Antacids reduce existing stomach acids, while medications like famotidine reduce the amount of acid produced by the stomach. In general, this drug class has a good safety profile, and adverse effects are uncommon if therapeutic doses are administered.

Famotidine should not be used in dogs with a known hypersensitivity to it or other H2 receptor agonists. It should be used with caution in dogs with diminished kidney or liver function or heart disease. Dogs taking an anticoagulant should have prothrombin times monitored. Famotidine can also affect the absorption of other medications because it alters the normal acidity of the stomach.

Famotidine is 42 times more potent than cimetidine (brand name Tagamet) in reducing stomach acid secretion. Compared to omeprazole (brand name Prilosec), famotidine has a weaker effect in dogs. Given chronically over time, tolerance is known to develop, making famotidine less effective for prolonged therapy. If given twice daily, stomach acidity regresses to the untreated state by day 14.

After administration, peak concentration of famotidine in the blood is achieved within two hours. It does cross the placenta and distributes to the milk in nursing females. Famotidine is cleared out of the system via the kidneys.

Famotidine Dosage for Dogs

The recommended dosage is 0.5 to 1 milligram (mg) per kilogram (kg) of body weight—or about 0.25 to 0.5 mg per pound of body weight. It can be given by mouth or by injection every 24 hours. If given orally, it’s best given 30 minutes prior to a meal.

The over-the-counter version of famotidine come in 10 mg and 20 mg tablets. Be sure the famotidine you get for your dog contains no other active ingredients and that you administer accurate dosages, under the guidance of your veterinarian.

Overdosage via intravenous administration can result in vomiting, increased heart rate, and hypersalivation. Chronic overdosage via oral administration can result in mild weight loss. Overall, H2 antagonists have fairly wide margins of safety.

If you have a dog who you think would benefit from treatment with famotidine, please check with your veterinarian before administering it. If your dog is on other medications, they might be less effective due to the altered acidity of the stomach. Also, a dog who is not eating or vomiting might have a problem that cannot be solved with famotidine alone.

Oral Famotidine Dosage Chart for Dogs

Recommended dosage can be given every 24 hours by mouth.

Body Weight (lbs.)Famotidine Dosage
5 -102.5 mg
11 - 215 mg
22 - 4410 mg
45 - 6615 mg
67 -8820 mg
89 - 13230 mg
133 - 17640 mg

Barn Hunt for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Barn hunt for dogs is an all breed sport that allows dogs to exercise their hunting and tracking instincts.
This Airedale has found the tube with the rat in it and is indicating to her handler by tapping the top of the tube. Credit: Kate O’Connor

Want a fun sport that is physically and mentally exhausting for your dog, uses your dog’s instincts, and is filled with great camaraderie? Then you should try Barn Hunt for dogs! This sport is enjoyed by dogs of all ages, sizes, breeds, and mixes.

 

 

Barn Hunt Origins

In 2013, Robin Nuttall designed the sport of Barn Hunt to encourage people to indulge their dogs in a sport that appeals to dogs’ natural instincts. At the time her Miniature Pinschers were not allowed in AKC Earthdog events, and she wanted a fun test for their hunting instincts.

The Barn Hunt Association was formed and became an overnight success. Dogs need to register with the Barn Hunt Association to compete for titles. The association lists clubs where knowledgeable people can help you train your dog for Barn Hunt. They also have a listing of events in your area when you and your dog are ready to compete.

How to Play Barn Hunt

The basics are simple. A dog needs to hunt through a course of straw or hay bales to locate rats safely hidden in tubes. Along the way, the dog must climb up the bales and hunt for rat tubes. They also must negotiate a tunnel made using the bales.

Safety is important in Barn Hunt. The rats are in ventilated PVC tubes that keep them and the dogs safe but allow the dogs to use their natural skills (detecting the rat’s scent!) to find them.

Rules forbid dogs from roughing up tubes or knocking the tubes around. Ramps and steps help dogs achieve climbs, although owners need to take responsibility for controlling their dog’s kamikaze leaping desires from bale to bale or back to the ground.

Competing in Barn Hunt

To earn Barn Hunt titles, you must join the Barn Hunt Association. The cost is a one-time $32 fee.

The hardest part about learning to compete in Barn Hunt with your dog is reading your dog and knowing when he has found the tube with the rat. When he finds the correct tube, you need to call out “rat” and then restrain your dog so the rat wrangler can safely remove the tube. If you call rat inappropriately, your run ends.

Some tubes are filled only with litter (bedding from a rat cage), which can be tough on a beginner dog because there is scent. Others are empty. And, of course, there are tubes with a live rat in them. The number of each type of tube varies with the level you run. All tubes are tucked under slanted bales or tucked between bales and/or covered with straw. Tubes can be hidden on the ground or placed up on bales.

Barn Hunt Alert Signal

Each dog has his own alert signal. Some dogs bark. Some paw at the tube with the rat. Some try to grab the tube. And, unfortunately, some dogs seem to use telepathy, forcing you to learn the subtle signal. This is where your partnership comes in.

You also need to be able to guide your dog to be sure he does the climb and tunnel. As your dog passes into higher levels, tunnels become more complex, with multiple turns. That also means they are longer and quite dark, which can sometimes back a dog off. In addition, there is never a rat tube hidden in a tunnel so dogs who are truly into the hunt may avoid the tunnel since there is no reward of a find.

Competition Levels

Barn Hunt has multiple levels. All levels require your dog to find the rats and you to call out the find. Your dog must find the specified number of rats associated with each level, which ranges from 1 rat up to 5 rats at the highest levels. The dog must also do required bale climbs and tunnels, all with a set amount of time. Fastest run wins. A false alert, which is calling out “rat” at a point your dog was not indicating a live rat, is non-qualifying.

The first level is called Instinct. This entry level merely requires that your dog indicate which of three tied-down tubes contains a live rat versus being empty or filled with litter. This level requires indicate which one of three tubes has a rat in 1 minute.

At Novice level, your dog must go through a short tunnel of straw bales, climb on a bale and find the one rat hidden in the ring. You and your dog must work together so that all obstacles are completed. Novice requires that the dog find one rat, climb, and do a simple tunnel in 2 minutes.

From there, you move up to Open (find two rats, do a tunnel with one turn and climb in 2 minutes, 30 seconds), Senior (find four rats, climb, and do a tunnel with 1 or 2 turns in 3 minutes, 30 seconds), and Master (find one to five rats, climb, and do a tunnel with 2 or 3 turns in 4 minutes 30 seconds).

The Master level is tough because you don’t know how many rats are hidden. It will range from one to five. The course for this level is big, with more bales piled and spread, lots of fluff (loose straw to help hide tubes), and trickier tunnels with multiple turns. A course may also have a distance challenge with part of the course blocked off for you.

Barn Hunt Is Fun

If you’re new to Barn Hunt, attend a trial or two and observe the variety of dogs (and people, if you like people watching) who participate. At our local trials, we often have Great Danes and Chihuahuas plus everything between.

I have run 10 dogs in Barn Hunt: a Cirneco dell Etna, an Australian Shepherd, a Pembroke Welsh Corgi, and seven Belgian Tervuren. Each dog has had a different style of hunting and indicating rat tubes. My older Terv seemed to think the game was rather stupid because she did not get to chase, kill, and eat the rats. She had a superb sense of smell however, never once indicated falsely, and would calmly go around the ring and gently tap the rat tubes with her paw. Basically, she ran it like a scent-work exercise with the scent to find being rat.

Her son has been described as a “rat-seeking missile.” He flies around the ring at speed, grabs rat tubes wildly, and often places since he is so fast. I have no idea how he can smell so well on the run, but he does.

My youngest Terv and our Corgi both hunt primarily by sound. They check around the course, pause, and listen. If the ears come up and touch, while the dog stares intently, that is a rat tube.

The point is that each dog is truly different in how they hunt, although most use a combination of scent and sound. Through your partnership, you learn how to read your dog and figure out if they are just checking, or if they really found a rat tube.

Adopting a Dog from a Shelter

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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2
Adopting a shelter dog, a rescue dog, or another dog in need is a great way to make a friend for life.
Choosing the right shelter dog for your family starts with attraction, of course, but ask the shelter workers questions and describe the life you see for the dog within your family. Visit the dog several times in areas where you can interact with dog, so you get to know him or her. Credit: Bluecinema | Getty Images

Adopting a shelter or rescue dog is a great way to help a dog in need! But remember that your new companion may not have gotten the best start in life, so you will need to proceed slowly as you build your new life together. The hardest part about adopting a shelter pet is if the match doesn’t work. To avoid that, we have six important things to help you and your rescue or shelter dog adjust to becoming a family:

 

 

1.    Health Costs of Adopting a Shelter Dog

Shelters should have established protocols for evaluating each new dog’s health status and what care they need. Urgent health care needs such as injuries will be addressed, as well as some basic preventive care measures.

Every dog being adopted out from a shelter should have vaccinations based on their age. Additional boosters may be provided by the shelter, or you may need to get those through your own veterinarian.

If the dog is over 6 months old, it should also have been tested for heartworm at least once. Ask if this has been done and if heartworm prevention started right after the testing. Treating a heartworm infection is expensive and risky. If the shelter does not routinely test their dogs, consider offering to pay for the test before adopting so that you know if the dog is positive or not.

Most shelter dogs are spayed or neutered before being adopted out. The exception is young puppies. Some shelters may adopt these puppies out while still intact, but with a requirement to get them spayed or neutered after 6 months of age. Ask if the shelter will cover this procedure or reimburse part of the cost.

Most shelters now microchip their dogs and will provide you with the paperwork during the adoption process. Don’t forget to register the chip with your contact information! The shelter may do this for you, or you may need to contact the microchip company.

2.    Shelter Dog Personality May Change

One of the hardest parts about adopting a dog from a shelter is recognizing that shelters are not like typical family homes. Shelter staff do an amazing job of getting to know their dogs’ quirks and personality traits, but some of these things may shift when the dog has settled into a home environment.

On average, it takes three to six months for a dog to fully settle into their new home and to see their true personality. Some dogs may blossom quickly. Others may take longer to adjust. This is normal, especially if the dog has experienced a lot of turmoil and change throughout their life before adoption.

Ask the shelter if they have information from the dog’s previous owner, and talk to the staff member(s) who have spent the most time working with the dog you are interested in.

Consider:

  • How the dog interacts with people of different age, sex, and body type
  • How the dog interacts with other dogs—this may be different when kenneled, on a leash, or loose in a play yard
  • If the dog has been exposed to other animals, and how it went
  • How the dog interacts with food, and how he responds if others approach while eating
  • How the dog interacts with toys, and how he responds if others approach while playing
  • Response to loud noises
  • How much the dog has been handled for basic grooming, and if there are any areas that will need to be worked on (for example, a dog who is head shy, or one who hates having his paws touched)
  • The dog’s play style, like is he a rough-and-tumble body slammer, or does he prefer chase games?
  • How vocal the dog is

Asking a lot of questions during the adoption process gives you a foundation of who this dog is. Just keep in mind that some personality traits may shift when he leaves the shelter environment. These changes may be for the worse or for the better.

For any new dog, it is a good idea to start out feeding meals in a quiet, secure area where the dog won’t be bothered by other pets or family members. Food is a valuable resource for any dog, but especially to a dog who has experienced scarcity. Let him eat in peace to avoid issues with resource guarding. Once he has settled in and you have built a relationship, this may be able to change.

3.    Life Skills Can Vary

A shelter dog may have some basic household manners or none. This depends on how he was raised and how much consistency he has had in his life, plus how much the shelter staff have been able to work on.

For the most part, it is good to assume that you will need to treat your new dog like a puppy regardless of his actual age. This is especially true for house training. If the dog has only lived in a kennel or outdoor environment, he may have no concept of eliminating outside the house. Take him out for frequent walks, and praise and reward when he eliminates where he is should outside. Watch his behavior closely to learn his “tells” for when he needs to pee or poop.

Also do not assume that an adult dog won’t chew or destroy things when unattended in the house. Depending on his background, he may think that your house is just a fun playground for him to explore. “Puppy proof” your house and have a plan to keep him safely confined when you can’t be with him.

You may need to review or introduce all these life skills:

  • House training
  • Crate training (useful for house training and to preventing in appropriate chewing)
  • Walking on a leash
  • Respecting counters
  • Waiting at doors
  • Being handled for grooming care
  • Sit, down, and a reliable recall

4.    Unknown Background

For many shelter dogs, we have no information about their previous health history or the health and temperament of their parents and relatives. The shelter will provide you with any info that they do have, but this is unlikely to be comprehensive.

A shelter dog also may not have received proper socialization as a puppy and might not have gotten proper nutrition.

This is something to keep in mind as your new dog or puppy ages. Your puppy could be shy and fearful because she has had some bad experiences, or she could be shy and fearful because that is her genetic personality. Aggression can appear in adolescence and may be a passing stage or who that dog truly is. Malnutrition during growth can manifest as orthopedic and other problems later in life.

Inherited health issues may arise. It is unlikely that a shelter dog’s parents underwent health testing and evaluations before being bred, so your prospective dog could have amazing genes or terrible ones. Health issues ranging from hip dysplasia to allergies to heart defects are all possible.

That said, even a dog from a great breeder who keeps detailed notes on health and temperament can still develop surprises. That’s genetics! You just know a little more about what you might be getting yourself into with a dog from a known background vs. a dog from an unknown background.

5.    The Application Process

Each shelter will have its own application process before you can adopt a dog. This typically includes a questionnaire, one or more meet-and-greets, and a home check. Don’t be offended. The shelter staff just want to be sure that this dog will be a good fit for you and the dog. They want this home to be the dog’s forever home where they can thrive.

Some shelters have specific housing and experience requirements for new owners, such as requiring a fenced yard or having owned a dog before. These requirements may be flexible, but be polite and respectful when trying to negotiate.

If you already have a dog or other pets, allowing them to meet the prospective new family member is a good idea. Introductions between dogs should be made on neutral territory.

6.    Patience Required

Some shelter dogs quickly settle into their new home like they’ve been there their whole life, but most take time to adjust. Be patient, and have a plan to make your dog’s first few weeks calm and low stress.

For the best chance at success, try to:

  • Introduce family members and other pets gradually
  • Give the new dog a place to “escape” if he feels overwhelmed, such as a crate or a quiet room with his things
  • Skip the big welcome party (your dog can meet your friends after he has gotten to know you)
  • Feed meals in a quiet, secure area so your new dog isn’t afraid his food will be stolen
  • Test out leash-walking skills in your yard before trying neighborhood walks
  • Keep your dog at home for a few days to settle in before taking him on day trips
  • Schedule an appointment with your vet to get your dog established and identify any preventive care that he might need continued or added

Acid Reflux in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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0
Acid-reflux in dogs is a serious issue that requires a vet visit.
If your dog is showing symptoms of acid reflux—such as regurgitation, reduced appetite, and difficulty swallowing—a visit to the vet is in order. Credit: Jaromír Chalabala | Getty Images

Acid reflux, also known as Gastroesophageal Reflux Disease (GERD), is a painful condition in people—and in dogs. Proper diagnosis of this condition in dogs can be challenging because unlike in people, dogs cannot tell us when or where they hurt or the type of pain they are experiencing.

 

 

Symptoms of Acid Reflux in Dogs

Symptoms of GERD in dogs include regurgitation, decreased appetite, difficulty swallowing, and acting uncomfortable. Some dogs with GERD may have a chronic cough. You may also notice that your dog’s bark sounds different than it used to. One of the classic symptoms experienced by dogs with GERD is that they are more likely to regurgitate than vomit (see sidebar). However, conditions that cause chronic vomiting may lead to the development of GERD.

When is a Dog Vomiting vs. Regurgitating?

There is a difference between regurgitating and vomiting. Regurgitating is the expulsion of food or water from the esophagus that has not yet made it to the stomach. Vomiting is the expulsion of food and water from the stomach and small intestine.

One of the first signs you may notice with vomiting is that your dog is licking his lips. This is followed by heaving and abdominal contractions. Then your dog will vomit. Regurgitating is a passive process—your dog will suddenly open his mouth and expel food or water. There is no warning that your dog is about to regurgitate.

Knowing the difference between if your dog is vomiting and regurgitating can be a challenge. Take a video of your dog as he is bringing up food or water and show it to your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will help you determine if your dog is regurgitating or vomiting.

What is GERD?

GERD occurs when contents of the stomach flow backwards through the lower esophageal sphincter into the esophagus. The lower esophageal sphincter is a muscular valve that sits between the end of the esophagus and the start of the stomach. This valve opens to allow the passage of food and water from the esophagus to the stomach. The valve closes once food and water have passed into the stomach.

Conditions that either allow or force the opening of the lower esophageal sphincter when there is no food or water trying to pass into the stomach may cause GERD. An open lower esophageal sphincter allows stomach acid to enter the esophagus from the stomach. This harms the mucosal lining of the esophagus.

The lining of the stomach is protected from the caustic nature of stomach acid by a layer of mucus. The esophageal lining does not have this protection. Stomach acid is irritating to the esophageal mucosal lining, leading to the pain and burning sensations that people typically associate with heartburn.

Diagnosing GERD in Dogs

Your veterinarian will start with baseline blood work and radiographs of the thorax and abdomen if she suspects that your dog has GERD. She may also recommend a therapeutic trial of feeding four small meals per day, feeding a low-fat diet, and two weeks of giving sucralfate and omeprazole to see how your dog responds. If the symptoms of GERD persist or do not improve, then she may recommend seeing a veterinary internist (internal medicine specialist).

An internist may recommend an endoscopy to examine the lining of the esophagus and the stomach. Biopsy samples of abnormally appearing esophageal and gastric mucosa may be obtained during endoscopy and submitted for histopathology.

Measuring the pH of the esophagus just north of the lower esophageal sphincter can be helpful in diagnosing GERD. A pH meter can be temporarily implanted in the lower esophagus using an endoscope. The pH meter transmits data to a recording device attached to your dog’s collar. You will be asked to push a button on the recording device when you notice your dog exhibiting symptoms of GERD. You will also be asked to write down the symptoms you observed in a log.

The pH meter naturally detaches from inside the esophagus after about 7 to 10 days. It is small and will move through your dog’s gastrointestinal tract over the next several hours. Your dog will pass the pH meter in his stool.

Other advanced imaging may include a barium study or fluoroscopy. A barium study can be useful in visualizing strictures or tumors of the esophagus. Fluoroscopy is a live-action series of x-ray images. This is used to perform a swallowing study to see how your dog moves food through his esophagus.

Treating Canine GERD

Treatments for GERD include resolving the irritation of the esophagus and treating the underlying cause. Esophageal irritation can be eased by coating the damaged mucosal lining with a medication called sucralfate (also known as carafate). Sucralfate selectively binds to damaged mucosa and protects it from stomach acid while the mucosa heals.

Medications that reduce the acidity of stomach acid may also be prescribed. Famotidine (also known by its brand name, Pepcid) is often prescribed because it is inexpensive, available over the counter, and can be given either on an empty stomach or with a meal. But famotidine may not be as effective as omeprazole (also known by its brand name, Prilosec) in treating GERD.

Famotidine begins to decrease the acidity of stomach juices within a few hours of administration. But its effectiveness begins to wane after several days of taking famotidine. In one study, the effectiveness of famotidine was cut nearly in half by the twelfth day of receiving this medication.

Omeprazole takes about 3 to 5 days to reach its full effectiveness at reducing stomach acidity. This medication is more effective at reducing the acidity of stomach juices than famotidine. But long-term use of omeprazole has been shown to have serious side effects in people. More studies are needed to determine if our canine companions suffer from the same long-term side effects as people.

It is generally recommended to limit the use of omeprazole to a duration of 3 to 4 weeks in dogs. Abrupt discontinuation of omeprazole after receiving it for 3 to 4 weeks has been shown to cause a rebound acidity in the stomach. Dogs should be tapered off omeprazole if they have been receiving it for this long.

Omeprazole may cause elevations in liver enzymes. Use of omeprazole with some medications may increase the length of time these medications remain active in a dog’s body. Diarrhea is also a potential side effect. In addition, omeprazole may inhibit the absorption of medications that require an acidic environment in the stomach to activate.

Other treatments for GERD will depend on the underlying cause. Any condition that causes chronic vomiting or decreased gastrointestinal motility can lead to the development of GERD. More specific conditions that can cause GERD include:

  • hiatal hernia
  • esophageal tumors and strictures
  • esophageal motility disorders
  • Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS)
  • undergoing anesthesia

Many of the drugs used while a dog is anesthetized for a surgical procedure may relax the lower esophageal sphincter. This allows stomach acid to enter the esophagus and cause GERD. These episodes of GERD typically last only a few days and are treated with a 7 to 14 day course of omeprazole and sucralfate.

Hiatal Hernias

A hiatal hernia is when part of the stomach enters the thoracic cavity (also known as the chest). The esophagus starts in the throat, travels through the thoracic cavity, and enters the abdominal cavity through a portal in the diaphragm. The diaphragm is the muscle that separates the thorax and the abdomen. The diaphragmatic portal through which the esophagus travels is called the esophageal hiatus.

A ligament originating from the diaphragm encircles and attaches to the esophagus just above the lower esophageal sphincter. The lower esophageal sphincter is located just within the abdominal cavity, south of the esophageal hiatus. If this ligament is lax or becomes stretched, then the lower esophageal sphincter enters the thoracic cavity. Sometimes a part of the stomach can also enter the thoracic cavity through the esophageal hiatus.

A lower esophageal sphincter that is inside the thoracic cavity has less pressure applied to it. The sphincter is more likely to stay open without sufficient pressure applied. Most hiatal hernias are congenital, meaning that a dog is born with the condition. Congenital hiatal hernias can occur in any breed of dog but are more prevalent in Shar Peis and English Bulldogs.

Hiatal hernias can also occur in brachycephalic breeds secondary to BOAS. Trauma can also cause a hiatal hernia but this is rare. Trauma (such as being hit by a car) is more likely to cause a different type of hernia called a diaphragmatic hernia.

GERD secondary to a hiatal hernia can be managed with a medication called cisapride. Cisapride increases the muscular contractions of the esophagus and increases the strength of the lower esophageal sphincter. Sucralfate and omeprazole can be used as needed. Some dogs with hiatal hernias may continue to experience GERD despite medical management. These dogs may benefit from surgical intervention.

Esophageal Motility Disorders

Brachycephalic dogs are more likely to have an esophageal motility disorder that can lead to the development of GERD. Dogs with an esophageal motility disorder move food through the esophagus at a much slower rate. This leaves the lower esophageal sphincter open for a longer period of time. Cisapride or metoclopramide are the medications commonly used to treat this disorder.

Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS)

Dogs with BOAS are susceptible to developing GERD. These dogs have one or more anatomical obstructions in their upper airway that decrease pressure within the thoracic cavity. This change in thoracic cavity pressure may relax the lower esophageal sphincter and cause GERD. Dogs with BOAS are also more likely to develop a hiatal hernia secondary to episodes of severe respiratory distress.

Dogs with BOAS are more likely to have several problems related to their respiratory and gastrointestinal systems. Surgical intervention to address anatomical abnormalities of their upper airways—including narrow nostrils, elongated soft palate, and everted laryngeal saccules—may improve their quality of life and minimize the risk of developing secondary problems like GERD.

Seek Veterinary Treatment GERD Symptoms

Talk to your veterinarian if you suspect that your dog has GERD. There are other conditions that mimic the symptoms of GERD. Proper diagnosis is necessary to determine the correct treatment plan. Treating your dog on your own with over-the-counter antacids like Pepcid and Prilosec can do more harm than good. Most dogs with GERD have a good prognosis with proper treatment.

No, You Can’t

By
Nancy Kerns
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28
Doggy bags should never be put in a strangers trash can.
People sure are defensive about keeping their garbage cans free of random poop-bag deposits made by passerby dog-walkers. Credit: Kinga Krzeminska, getty Images

Of all the “third rail” topics concerning dogs, here’s one I never could have guessed would make some people incensed: A passerby putting a bag of dog poop in their garbage can. Ack! Apparently, this makes some homeowners angry enough that they put signs on or next to their garbage cans, set up security cameras in order to identify and eventually confront the offenders, or threatening penalties for the alleged “theft of services” (using someone else’s garbage service).

Personally, I can’t imagine getting upset enough about someone putting a bag of even very smelly dog poop in my trash can—but I have to admit that the only time this might even be possible is on trash pickup day, when my garbage bin is out on the street and accessible to passersby. And while it would not be very nice if someone dropped stinky poo in the bin after the garbage truck had emptied the bin—so it would conceivably stink up the bin for another week—I don’t have my bins close enough to my house that I risk smelling that smell, except for the second or three that it takes to put other bags of garbage in there. But I live in a rural area, so I guess I’m spoiled.

My son and his wife had a baby late last fall, and I’ve been visiting them at least once monthly in the eastern part of the San Francisco Bay Area where they live. One of the few ways I can make myself useful to them as they adjust to live as new parents is to walk their dog, Cole, catching him up on exercise he’s been missing on the days with higher levels of baby maintenance. We’ve also gone for family walks, with my son or his wife carrying baby Maddie in a soft wrap or pushing her in a stroller. We were on one such walk when, after I had picked up one of Cole’s poops and was about to put it in someone’s garbage bin that was waiting at the curb to be picked up, my son stopped me. “Mom!” he said. “You can’t do that here! Someone will probably come out of the house and yell at you!”

We spent the rest of the walk talking about all the tactics he had seen deployed in his and his friends’ neighborhoods—tactics that people are using to keep dog-walkers from putting dog poop in their garbage. As we walked, my son pointed out signs, security cameras, locks on the garbage bins, and locked cages that secure the bins in his neighborhood. Yowsa! There was a war going on that I was not even aware of!

I guess it makes sense, particularly in urban areas where the density of dogs being walked daily is very high—and where your garbage bin is very likely stored in your garage, or right next to your home and possibly even under a window.

I don’t particularly enjoy carrying dog poop for the rest of a walk—especially if I’m walking more than one dog, or the dog is like Cole, who seems to go to extra trouble to force himself to poop at least three times on every walk, even if the last one is just the size or a grape. But the answer for me is to simply carry a “poop pack-out” bag: one of the new-generation odor-containing bags that enable you to carry several bags of poop securely and without smelling it, until you get home and can dispose of the poop in your own garbage bin.

We first recommended one of these products in WDJ’s Gear of the Year 2024. I ordered one on the strength of our veterinarian reviewer, who walks two large dogs daily and said she could fit the waste of both dogs in the Olive & Odin Poop Pouch. I was skeptical that the bag would truly work to completely contain the odor, but it did! I once carried the bag in a large fanny pack on a long hike, and had to occasion to put not one but two bags of dog poop in the bag. Once home, I accidentally left the fanny pack, with the dog-waste bag inside it (and the dog poop bags inside that), in my car for over a week—and never smelled a thing! These bags use an odor-containing technology that truly traps the foul odor of poop in the bag.

At the time of our review, I wasn’t aware of this type of product at all. Today, there are at least a dozen competing products on the market, including ones by Ruffwear and Kong.

The only problem with these bags is that none of them seem to come with a carrying strap; one needs to put them inside a backpack or fanny pack or fasten them somehow onto the belt for your treat-carrying pouch, or just resign oneself to carrying them by the strap used to close them. Despite this minor inconvenience, they certainly do make it more pleasant (less unpleasant) to carry home several (or one very large) bag full of dog poop for disposal in your own garbage bin.

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